? 


Ar 


%' 


Is 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


JUs*. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IVHcroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographlques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  Images  In  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 
D 
D 

□   Coloured  maps/ 
Cartes  gdographlques  en  couleur 

□   Coloured  ink  (I.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


D 
D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  Interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mals,  lorsque  cela  6talt  possible,  ces  pager,  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film6es. 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  mellleur  exempiaire 
qu'il  lui  a  dt6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exempiaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


I — I    Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur6es  et/ou  pelllculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach6es 

Showthroughy 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualitd  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

I — I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

I — I  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I — I  Pages  detached/ 

I — I  Showthrough/ 

I — I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I — I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I  Only  edition  available/ 


^ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totaiement  ou  partlellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feulllet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  6t6  film6es  d  nouveau  de  fa^on  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  Item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

^_^ 

A:] 

19X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

'•■^JBlliWil'Mii'iiwir""'''''''"' 


mmm^ 


laire 
s  details 
lues  du 
It  modifier 
iger  une 
e  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  h  la 
ginArositA  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Lea  images  sulvantes  ont  AtA  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  fiimA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


d/ 
iu6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


aire 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
riethod: 


Les  exemplalres  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sont  filmfo  en  commenqant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  termlnant  soit  par  la 
dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustratlon,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplalres 
originaux  sont  fllmte  en  commengant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'lllustration  et  en  termlnant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
f llmte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cllchA,  11  est  filmA  d  partir 
da  Tangle  supArleur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
at  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


by  errata 
[lied  to 

lent 

une  peiure, 
fapon  d 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

PUBLISHERS'    NOTICE. 


The  Publishere  take  great  pleasure  in  presenting  to  the  public  a  new 
edition  of  the  CTOLOPiBDiA  OF  Modern  Travel,  enlarged  by  the  import- 
ant narratives  of 

Dr.  Bartta's  Travels  In  Central  Africa; 
Dr.  lilTlnirston's  Travels  tn.Soutliem  and  Central  AfMca; 
and 

Atkinson's  Travels  In  Siberia  and  Chinese  Tartary; 
Which  have  been  issued  since  the  publication  of  former  editions  of 
this  work:  the  volumes  are  embellished  by  a  finely  engraved  portrait 
of  Mr.  Taylor,  and  also  by  steel  engravings  of  Scenes  in  Japan,  sketched 
during  his  visit  to  that  country.  The  author's  preface  to  this  edition  will" 
be  found  in  the  second  volume  ;  and  in  this  connection  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Taylor  is  printed,  without  his  knowledge,  which  fully  explains  itself,  and 
renders  unnecessary  any  further  remarks  by  the  Publishers. 


Nkw  Yobk,  Aug.  5,  1859. 
MooKK,  WiisTACH,  Kbts  k  Co. 

GenOemen :  In  reply  to  your  inquiry  as  to  what  portion  of  the  "  Cyclopedia  of 
Modern  Travel"  waa  prepared  by  me,  I  beg  leave  to  state  that  of  the  fifty-eight  narra- 
tives of  exploration  which  it  now  contains,  forty-five  were  prepared  exclusively  by  my 
own  hand,  from  the  original  works.  The  remaining  thirteen  were  compiled  by  two 
literary  friends,  under  my  own  direction,  and  were  afterward  carefully  revised  by  me. 
The  work,  therefore,  contains  an  amount  of  personal  labor,  such  as  I  have  never  be- 
stowed upon  any  other  single  volume.  I  have .  conscientiously  endeavored  to  permit 
each  author  to  speak  for  himself  as  much  as  possibla  and  am  convinced  that  no  im- 
portant portion  of  any  narrative  is  omitted.  The  work  is  as  full  and  exact  as  its  limits 
allow,  and  I  know  not  where  else  the  same  amount  of  information  with  regard  to  travel 
is  to  be  found  in  the  same  compass. 

Tours,  truly, 

BAYARD  TAYLOR, 


E. 

be  public  a  new 
i  by  the  import- 


ral  AfMca; 

■tary; 

ner  editions  of 
igraved  portrait 
Japan,  sketched 
this  edition  will' 
I  letter  from  Mr. 
plains  itself,  and 
s. 

Aug.  5,  1859. 

lie  "  Cyclopedia  of 
le  fifty-eight  narra- 
I  erclusively  by  my 
e  compiled  by  two 
"nlly  revised  by  me. 
i  I  have  never  be- 
deavored  to  permit 
vinced  that  no  im- 
1  exact  as  ito  limits 
■ith  regard  to  travel 


ARD  TAYLOR, 


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■i^iiP"^""— •• 


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CYCLOPjEDIA  of  modern  TRAVEL: 


A  BIOORD  or 


ADVENTURE,  EXPLORATION  AND  DISCOVERY, 


FOR  THE  PAST  SIXTY  YEARS: 


OOMPBIgmO 


NARRATIVES    OF    THE    MOST     DISTINGUISHED     TRAVELERS    SINCE     THE 
BEGINNINQ    OF    THIS    CENTURY; 


t/' 


PBIiPABBD  AND  ABBANOED  BT 

BAYAKD    TAYLOR. 


ILLUSTRATED  WITH  NUMEROUS  MAPS  AND  ENGRAVINGS. 


RBVISBD    AND     BNIiAROBD     BDITIOST. 


COMPLETE    IN   TWO    VOLUMES. 


VOLUME   I. 


NEW   TOKK: 
MOORE,    WILSTACH,    KEYS   &   CO., 

49    WALKER    STREET. 

OINOINNATI:    26  WEST  FOURTH  STREET. 

18  6  0. 


i^O.      //^    ^^ 


\ 


1! 


i 


^ 


11 


Enterod,  woordlng  to  Act  of  Oongrow,  In  the  year  1888,  by 

MOOliK,  W1L9TA(!II.  KEYS  A  CO., 

I„  the  Clerk',  ofllec  of  the  Dlatrlct  Court  of  the  United  State,  fbr  the  Southern  DUtrlot  of  Ohta 


X  $    2^ 


11 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Oongreee,  In  the  year  1869,  by 

MOOBB,  WIL8TACH,  KEYS  &  CO., 

In  the  Clerk',  Omce  of  the  Dbtriot  Court  of  the  United  Statee  for  the  Southern  Dl.trlcto^hlo. 


StlOTttOTTPSD   ST 

THOMAS  B.  SMITH. 


!<ft^%^«rt{«Amws#6^ 


irnDiitrtotofOUo. 


srn  District  of  Ohio. 


■  -lila«»»,|i.»if ' 


iJlRtf^WWrtStWP^'i*'"'^' - 


V- 


TO 

ALEXANDER  VON  HUMBOLDT, 

THE  OLDEST  ANI»  THK  MOST  KKNOWNKD  OP  LIVINii  TKAVKLKK8, 

THIS    COMPRNDIirM    OF    THK    KE8ULTS    OK    MUDKKN 
TRAVEL    AN1>    EXPI.OBATI  ON, 

IS 

^eberentln  Instrtbt^i. 


m 


vumnHMmmm 


liiMSaaS»W'^j«>;«j«pa?!ipasf^ps3i8^(5jv^  ii^i^nngs^^'-iK^it^'^ith:- 


PREFACE. 


1 


The  present  century  is  emphatically  an  age  of  exploration  and 
discovery.  At  no  period  since  the  days  of  Columbus  and  Cortez 
has  the  thirst  for  exploring  new  lands  been  more  active  and  univer- 
sal than  now.  One  by  one  the  outposts  of  barbarism  are  stormed 
and  carried ;  advanced  parallels  are  thro^vn  up,  and  the  besieging 
lines  of  knowledge,  which,  when  once  established,  can  never  be  re- 
taken, are  gradually  closing  round  the  yet  unconquered  mysteries 
of  the  globe.  Modern  exploration  is  intelligent,  and  its  results  are 
therefore  positive  and  i)ermanent.  The  traveler  no  longer  wanders 
bewildered  in  a  cloud  of  fables,  prepared  to  see  marvels,  and  but  too 
ready  to  create  them  :  he  tests  every  step  of  the  way  by  the  sure 
light  of  science,  and  his  pioneer  trail  becomes  a  plain  and  easy  path 
to  those  who  follow.  The  pencil,  the  compass,  the  barometer,  and 
the  sextant  accompany  him  ;  geology,  botany,  and  ethnology  are 
his  aids  ;  and  by  these  helps  and  appliances,  his  single  brain  now 
achieves  results  which  it  would  once  have  required  an  armed  force 
to  win. 

In  nothing  is  this  change  more  manifest  than  in  the  character 
of  the  narratives  of  modem  travelers,  as  contrasted  with  those  of 
the  past  three  centuries.  The  old  travelers  had  all  the  wonder  and 
the  credulity  of  children,  and  were  scarcely  less  naive  and  unembar- 
rassed in  the  candor  of  their  relations.  They  made  their  works  a 
complete  confessional  of  their  experiences  ;  they  >vithheld  no  secrets 
from  their  readers,  and  in  their  account  of  the  customs  of  strange 
races  they  frequently  descended  to  details  which  the  extreme  deli- 
cacy of  modem  taste  would  not  allow.  Their  volumes  are  singular 
compounds  of  personal  experiences,  historical  episodes,  statistics, 
and  reflections  on  the  laws,  religions,  and  habits  of  hfe  of  other 
races  of  men,  interwoven  with  many  wonderful  stories,  and  with 
the  most  extraordinary  conjectures  and  speculations.     Their  con- 


ilKi'^*'«S^iSjl*t%-?*3|«!i?*^W»<?^^>i«S«P5?;^*^ 


vm 


PREFACE. 


i 


Bcientiousness  in  describing  all  .vhich  they  saw,  and  their  readiness 
in  beliovin-  all  which  they  heard,  have  subjected  most  of  them  to 
the  charge°of  exaggeration,  if  not  of  positive  falsehood;  yet  aiany 
of  their  most  extraordinary  statements  have  been  fully  confirmed 
in  our  own  day,  and  there  is  scarcely  a  single  instance  where 
any  old  traveler   of  repute  has  been  convicted  of  wiUiul  lab- 

"''''The  modern  traveler,  on  the  other  hand,  is  characterized  by 
scepticism  rather  than  credulity.     He  is  much  more  mtcrested  m 
Bolvinc  Bome  problem  of  physical  geography,  or  m  illustrating  some 
favorire  scientific  theory,  than  in  tales  of  -gorgons,  hydras  and 
chimceras  dire."    As  the  ends  of  the  earth  have  been  brought  to- 
gother,  through  the  extension  of  commercial  mtcrcourse  and  that 
magnificent  system  of  colonization  which  is  the  leading  feaiurc  of 
modern  histoiy,  he  is  no  longer  obliged  to  masquerade  m  he  dis- 
cuises  of  other  races  than  his  own,  but  bears  about  him  the  dis- 
tinguishing stamp  of  his  nationality.    He  is  thun   ess  truly  ^  cos- 
mopolite than  his  prototype  of  two  centuries  back,  ^nd^^^J^  1^^« 
delineations  of  nature  are  in  most  cases  as  exact  and  faithful  as 
possible,  he  gives  us  less  of  that  intrinsic  human  nature  which  lends 
such  a  charm  to  the  story  of  the  latter.   There  are  some  exceptions 
it  is  true,  the  most  remarkable  of  whom  is  M.  Hue,  who  exhibits  all 
the  simplicity  and    sincerity  of  the    early  Jesuit  missionaries  ; 
and  the  reader  can  not  help  being  impressed  with  the  conviction 
that  he  tells  us  nothing  which  he  does  not  himself  honestly 

^  But  in  the  accuracy  of  their  observations  the  travelers  of 
modem  times  are  pre-eminently  distinguished.    It  is  no  longer  the 
testimony  of  a  pair  of  eyes  which  is  offered  to  us  ;  it  is  also  the  con- 
firmation of  instruments  as  unerring  as  natural  laws,  which  photo- 
eraph  for  us  the  climate,  the  conformation,  the  scenery,  and  the 
Sbitants  of  distant  lands.    Mountains  have  been  measured  and 
the  enormous  abysses  of  the  ocean  sounded;  «^-P«  ^  ^<>  ^^^ 
an  unmeaning  plane  surface,  but  the  central  piatoaus  of  cent  nents 
and  the  terraces  of  mountain  ranges  take  then:  proportionate  levels , 
Ist^Les  which  formerly  displayed  but  the  imperfect  resemblance 
of  a  child'    attempt  at  drawing,  have  now  the  clear  and  certa m 
outiine,  the  perfect  profile  of  an  artist's  hand,  and  every  feature  in 
Jhe  panorama  of  our  globe  is  growing  into  new  and  l>eautiM  <^  - 
tinctnTs     These  vast  results  are  exclusively  the  product  of  our 
Iw  day.     Humboldt,  the  founder  of  Physical  Geography,  stiU 
S^s  to  rejoice  over  the  discoveries  of  each  successive  year  ;  Agassiz, 
XLTrranged  the  geographical  distribution  of  the  animal  king- 


mMMM 


PREFACE. 


IX 


their  readiness 
lost  of  them  to 
oocl ;  yet  iiiany 
fully  confirmed 
instance  where 
of  willful  fab- 

haracterized  by 
re  interested  in 
llustrating  some 
jns,  hydras,  and 
)een  brought  to- 
course,  and  that 
ading  feature  of 
erade  in  the  dis- 
out  him  the  dis- 
Icss  truly  a  cos- 
;k,  and  while  his 
t  and  faithful  as 
tture  which  lends 
some  exceptions, 
,  who  exhibits  all 
lit  missionaries  ; 
th  the  conviction 
limself  honestly 

the  travelers  of 
t  is  no  longer  the 
it  is  also  the  con- 
iws,  which  photo- 
scenery,  and  the 
en  measured  and 
laps  are  no  longer 
laus  of  continents, 
)portionate  levels ; 
jrfect  resemblance 
clear  and  certain 
d  every  feature  in 
and  beautiful  dis- 
lie  product  of  our 
I  Geography,  still 
ive  year ;  Agassiz, 
f  the  animal  king- 


I 


J 


doras,  and  Maury,  who  has  sketched  the  inequalities  of  the  beds  of 
oceans,  ascertained  their  currents,  and  organized  the  apparent  chaos 
of  the  winds,  live  among  us  ;  while  a  host  of  co-workers,  in  all 
parts  of  the  world,  arc  daily  contributing  materials  toward  the 
perfection  of  those  grand  systems  which  attest  the  supremacy  of 
Man  over  the  material  universe,  and  the  majesty  of  that  Divine 
Wisdom  to  which  the  order  of  creation  moves. 

A  comparison  of  the  maps  which  we  now  possess  with  those  of 
fifty  years  ago,  will  best  illustrate  the  achievements  of  modern 
exploration.  Within  that  time  all  the  princ'^ml  features  of  the 
geography  of  our  own  vast  interior  regions  have  been  accurately  de- 
termined ;  the  great  fields  of  Central  Asia  have  been  traversed  in 
various  directions,  from  Bokhara  and  the  Oxus  to  the  Chinese 
Wall ;  the  half-known  river  systems  of  South  America  have  been 
explored  and  surveyed ;  the  icy  continent  around  the  Southern 
Pole  has  been  discovered  ;  the  North- Western  Passage,  the  ignis- 
fatuus  of  nearly  two  centuries,  is  at  last  found  ;  the  Dead  Sea  is 
stripped  of  its  fiibulous  terrors ;  the  course  of  the  Niger  is  no  longer 
a  myth,  and  the  sublime  secret  of  the  Nile  is  almost  wrested  from 
his  keeping.  The  Mountains  of  the  Moon,  sought  for  through  two 
thousand  years,  have  been  beheld  by  a  Caucasian  eye  ;  an  English 
steamer  has  ascended  the  Chadda  to  the  frontiers  of  the  great  king- 
dom of  Bomou  ;  Eyre,  Leichhardt,  and  Sturt  have  penetrated  the 
wilderness  of  Aiistralia  ;  the  Russians  have  explored  the  frozen 
shores  of  Northern  Siberia,  and  descended  from  Irkoutsk  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Amoor ;  the  antiquated  walls  of  Chinese  prejudice 
have  been  cracked,  and  are  fast  tumbling  down  ;  and  the  canvas 
screens  which  surrounded  Japan  have  been  cut  by  the  sharp  edge 
of  American  enterprise.  Such  are  the  principal  features  in  the 
progress  of  modern  discovery.  What  half-century,  since  the  form 
of  the  earth  and  the  boundaries  of  its  land  and  water  were  known, 
can  exhibit  such  a  list  of  achievements  ? 

The  design  of  this  book  is  to  present  a  compact,  yet  as  far  as 
possible,  a  complete  and  satisfactory,  view  of  these  results.  So  far 
as  I  am  aware,  no  work  of  the  kind  has  yet  been  undertaken. 
When  it  was  proposed  to  me  by  the  publishers,  to  whom  the  original 
idea  is  due,  I  at  once  recognized  its  utility,  and  as  the  preparation 
of  it,  though  involving  a  considerable  amount  of  labor,  was  con- 
genial to  my  tastes  and  pursuits,  I  agreed  to  complete  it  previous 
to  setting  out  on  a  new  series  of  travels.  As  it  was  the  object  of 
the  publishers  to  produce  a  work  which  should  possess  j)ermanent 
value  as  a  book  of  reference,  and  yet  be  sufficiently  popular  in  its 
arrangement  to  interest  the  great  mass  of  readers,  who  desire  some- 


PREFACE. 
X 

thing  more  than  a  dry  statement  of  facts,  while  its  cost  should  not 
place  it  beyond  their  reach,  I  decided  to  let  each  traveler  tell  his 
own  story,  mainly,  confining  my  own  labors  to  the  nccessaiy  con- 
densation, and  to  the  selection  and  arrangement  of  the  diiierent 

narratives.  .     .  -i  i    x    •    i  j 

The  limits  prescribed  to  mo  rendered  it  impossible  to  include 
under  the  head  of  ''Travels,"  the  many  voyages  of  exploration 
which  have  been  made  during  this  ccntun^,  and  which  have  con- 
tributed so  richly  to  its  record  of  discoveries.    Those  of  Ross,  Parry, 
Cecile    D'  Urville,  Wilkes,   Beechy,  and    others,  extendmg  over 
lone,  periods  of  time,  would  have  required  much  space  m  order  to 
present  a  complete  summary  of  their  results.    I  determined  there- 
fore,  to  confine  myself  to  the  works  of  travel  and  exploration  by 
land  and  oven  in  this  field  the  material  was  so  rich  that  to  have  in- 
cluded every  traveler  who  has  attained  some  distinction  smce  the 
beginning  of  this  centuiy  would  have  rendered  necessary  a  much 
more  barren  and  encyclopaedical  arrangement  than  I  have  thought 
proper  to  adopt.    The  reader,  who  is  interested  in  a,  traveers 
achievements,  naturally  desires  to  hear  them  t<>ld  ^  his  own  lan- 
guage and  characteristic  manner,  and  I  preferred  selecting  the  most 
prominent  narratives-those  which  are,  in  some  measure  typical  of 
the  various  fields  of  exploration-and  omitting  those  which  are  of 
less  importance,  or  the  disclosures  of  which  have  been  superseded 
bv  later  travelers.    For  the  same  reason,  where  the  story  of  a  man  s 
travels  is  the  story  of  his  life,  I  have  given  the  article  a  biographical 
character,  as  in  the  case  of  Burckhardt  and  Mungo  Park     Alex- 
ander von  Humboldt,  from  the  position  he  occupies,  justifies  the 
same  departure  from  the  original  plan  of  the  work.     No  com- 
plete and  connected  account  of  his  journeys  has  ever  yet  been 

^"^  Mvpriacipal  difficulty  has  thus  been  the  very  richness  of  the 
materials  at  my  disposal.     I  have  taken  great  care  to  prevent  the 
work  of  compilation  from  becoming  mutilation-to  distmguish  be- 
tween that  which  is  of  limited  or  special  importance,  and  that 
which  possesses  general  interest  and  value.     I  can  not  suppose  that 
I  have  always  succeeded,  and  am  prepared  to  hear  my  judgment 
questioned  on  many  points.    The  general  usefulness  of  the  work, 
however,  and  the  necessity  for  its  preparation,  may  be  conceded 
It  contains  fifty-five  narratives,  which,  in  their  original  form  ot 
publication,  embrace  ninety  volumes.    Many  of  the  works,  includ- 
ing some  of  the  greatest  interest,  have  long  been  out  of  print ; 
many  have  never  been  republished  in  this  country  ;  and  a  few  have 
not  been  translated  into  EngUsh.    Very  few  distinguished  names 


i 


)st  should  not 
,voler  tell  hia 
lecessary  con- 
'  tho  different 

bio  to  include 
if  exploration 
lich  have  cou- 
)f  Ross,  Parry, 
^tending  over 
ice  in  order  to 
rmined,  there- 
exploration  by 
lat  to  have  in- 
ction  since  the 
iessary  a  much 
[  have  thought 
in  a  traveler's 
in  his  own  lan- 
icting  the  most 
jure,  typical  of 
je  which  are  of 
Ben  superseded 
tory  of  a  man's 
s  a  biographical 

0  Park.    Alex- 
es,  justifies  the 
ork.     No  corn- 
ever  yet  been 

richness  of  the 
3  to  prevent  the 
distinguish  be- 
;ance,  and  that 
lot  suppose  that 
r  my  judgment 
38  of  the  work, 
ay  be  conceded, 
riginal  form  of 
e  works,  includ- 

1  out  of  print ; 
and  a  few  have 

nguished  names 


PREFACE. 


XI 


have  been  omitted.  Most  of  the  groimd  traversed  by  Sir  Alexander 
Burnes  is  covered  by  the  narratives  of  Meyeiulorff  and  Lieutenant 
Wood  ;  I  was  prevented  from  describing  the  very  interesting  re- 
searches of  Stephens  in  Central  America  and  Yucatan,  by  the  fact 
of  their  being  copyright  works  ;  and  of  Schombui^k's  expensive 
work  on  Guiana,  there  is  not  a  copy  in  this  countiy,  to  my  knowl- 
edge, and  none  to  bo  procured  at  present.  With  these  exceptions, 
the  list  of  travelers  who  have  made  important  contributions  to 
our  knowledge  of  other  countries  and  other  races,  will  be  found 
complete. 

I  have,  of  course,  been  obliged  to  omit  all  works  which  do  not 
in  some  degree  partake  of  the  character  of  exploration,  however 
admirable  in  stylo  or  interesting  in  substance.  There  are  also 
some  works  of  the  greatest  interest  in  the  course  of  publication, 
but  which  have  not  yet  appeared.  Foremost  among  these  are  the 
travels  of  Dr.  Earth  in  Central  Africa,  which  probably  exceed  in 
importance  any  previous  labors  in  the  same  field.  Dr.  Krapf  has 
not  yet  given  to  the  world  his  account  of  the  great  African  snow 
mountain  of  Kilimancljaro,  which  ho  discovered  in  the  year  1850. 
Anderson's  visit  to  the  great  lake  Ngami,  in  Southern  Africa,  is  on 
the  eve  of  publication,  and  Dr.  Livingston,  tho  discoverer  of  this 
lake,  is  now  on  his  return  to  Cape  Town,  from  a  daring  journey  of 
three  years  into  the  unknown  interior.  There  is,  therefore,  the 
greater  necessity  now,  when  scarcely  a  year  passes  over  without 
some  interesting  geographical  discovery,  of  bringing  together  in  a 
convenient  form  all  that  has  hitherto  been  done,  as  an  introduc- 
tion to  and  elucidation  of  what  may  be  done  hereafter.  Of  the 
essential  interest  of  the  various  narratives  it  is  unnecessary  to 
speak.  Many  of  them  already  constitute  a  portion  of  the  household 
literature  of  the  world,  and  are  read  wherever  heroic  endurance  and 
unflincliing  courage  are  held  in  esteem. 

It  was  thought  best  to  arrange  tho  narratives  in  chronological 
order,  although  this  rule  has  not  been  adhered  to  in  all  cases. 
Where  there  is  a  manifest  connection  between  two  or  more  separate 
exploring  journeys— as  in  the  case  of  Denham,  Clapperton,  and 
Lander — such  connection  has  always  been  preserved.  In  some  in- 
stances, also,  several  disconnected  journeys  over  prescribed  routes  or 
in  a  special  field  of  travel,  have  been  grouped  together  under  one 
head.  To  have  introduced  geographical  distinctions,  in  addition, 
would  have  complicated  the  an-angement  and  required  a  greater 
expenditure  of  time  than  I  have  been  able  to  devote  to  the  work. 
I  have  endeavored  to  do  the  best  allowed  by  the  time  and  space 
at  my  disposal,  and  claim  no  further  merit  than  that  of  the 


Mto 


1 


xn 


PRBPAOE. 


mosaic-worker  Who  arranges  in  a  sj-mmetrical  form  the  jewels  placed 

^^^"in  neTrlv  all  instances  the  articles  have  been  prepared  from  the 
original  editions  of  the  various  works.  For  reference  to  a  few 
volumes  which  I  was  unable  to  obtain,  I  am  indebted  to  the  Astov 
IndTiety  Libraries  of  this  city.  My  friend,  Mr.  Barclay  Pennock 
afforded  me  much  assistance  in  translating  from  the  French  and 
German,  and  in  the  abridgement  of  some  of  the  narratives.  The 
Tuts  Sh  which  the  woA  is  illustrated  have  been  taken  m  aU 
cases    from    the    original    publications.      The  maps  have  been 

materiJly  to  the  interest  of  the  narratives  to  which  they  are 
prefixed. 

BAYARD  TAYLOR. 


New  York,  July,  1866. 


jewels  placed 

ired  from  the 
nco  to  n  few 
I  to  the  Astov 
slay  Pennock, 
te  French  and 
ratives.  The 
taken  in  all 
58  have  been 
believed,  add 
iiich  they  are 


AYLOR. 


CONTENTS. 


PAQI 

lira  AND  TRATEIS  op  ALEXAimER  VON  HUMBOLDT, 19 

Youth  and  Education, 19 

Voyage  to  America, 23 

Travels  on  the  Orinoco, 33 

Voyages  on  the  Rio  Negro  and  Oassiquiare, SO 

Return  to  Cumana, 66 

Visit  to  Cuba, 69 

Travels  among  the  Andes, 60 

Visit  to  Mexico  and  return  to  Europe, 1i 

Publication  of  his  Works, 13 

Journey  through  Russia,  Siberia,  and  Tartary, 16 

Humboldt's  Later  Years, 81 

MuNOO  Park's  Travels  in  Western  Africa, 93 

Second  Journey, 118 

Lewis  and  Clarke's  Jodrnbt  to  thb  Paoitio  Ocean, 129 

Voyage  up  the  Missouri, 129 

Winter  among  the  Mandans, 138 

Journey  across  the  Rocky  Mountains, 142 

Voyage  down  Lewis  and  Columbia  Rivera^ 160 

Winter  on  the  Pacific  Coast, 169 

The  Return  Journey, Its 

Bubokhardt's  Travels  in  Stbla,  AtBioA,  and  Arabia,       .       ...  191 

Travels  in  Syria, lOT 

Discovery  of  Petra, 206 

Travels  in  Nubia  and  Ethiopia, 201 

Journey  to  Mecca  and  Medina, 218 

Belzoni's  Explorations  in  Eoypt, 228 

Cailliaud's  Journey  to  the  Libyan  Oases,  ETmopiA,  and  Sennaab,  .       ,  246 

Franklin's  Overland  Journey  to  the  Polar  Sea, 289 

Meyendorit's  Journey  to  Bokhara, 323 

TiuKovsKi's  Journey  frou  Siberia  to  Peetn,   .       ', 349 

CooHRANE's  Pedestrian  Journey  through  Sibbru, 388 

GOLOWNIN'S  CAPnVTTY  IN  JAPAN, 411 

Db  Lasoaris's  Secret  Mission  amono  the  Bedouins, 439 

Denhau  and  Olapperton's  Expedition  to  Central  Afbioa,    ....  463 

Reception  in  Bomou, 469 

Denham's  Military  Excursion  to  Mandara, 418 

The  Rainy  Season  in  Bomou, 481 

Excursions  to  Loggun  and  around  Lake  Tchad, 491 

Olapperton's  Journey  to  Sackatoo, 491 

Return  to  Europe, 602 

Olapperton's  Second  Journey  to  Sackatoo, 606 

Return  Journey  of  Richard  Lander,   ........  618 


- 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


EXPLOHATIONS  OF  THE  NiOEH,    .... 

Discoveries  of  Richard  and  John  Lander, 

Laird  and  Oklfleld'8  Voyages  on  the  Niger, 

Narrative  of  Dr.  Oldflold, 

Allep  and  Tiiompson'a  Expedition, 
Moffat's  Liff.  in'  Soutuerji  Afuica,  . 
Stdut's  Kxplouatioxs  in-  Austraua, 

Journey  to  the  River  Darling,   . 

Voyage  down  tlio  Mornimbidgoo  and 
Back's  Ancrio  Land  Expedition, 
"Wellsted's  Tuavels  in  Oman, 

EXPLOUATIOXS  OF  TUB  WlIITE  NiLE, 

Wcrac's  Voyage, 
Dr.  Kuoblcchor'a  Voyage, 
Major  IIauuis's  Mission  to  Siioa, 
Parkyxs's  Life  in  Aryhsinia,     . 

"Wood's  .Journey  to  the  Oxcs • 

Fremont's  Kxplorations  op  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  Caupobnia, 

Journey  to  the  Rocky  Mountains, 

Journey  to  Oregon  and  California, 

Hue's  Travels  in  Tartary,  Thibet,  and  China,  .       .        .        • 

Jo\irney  through  Tartary  and  Thibet 

Residonco  at  Lha-Saa, 

Journey  from  LUa-Ssa  to  Canton 

Fortune's  Journeys  to  the  Tea-Countries  op  China, 

Journey  to  the  Green  Tea  Districts, 

Journey  to  the  Bohea  Mountains 

Recent  Explorations  in  Australia, 

Eyre's  Journey, 

Mitchell's  Journey  to  Tropical  Australia 

Lcichhardt's  Overland  Journey  to  Port  Essington, 

Ltnoh's  Exploration  op  the  Dead  Sea, 

Lataed's  Explorations  at  Nineveh  and  Babylon,      . 

First  Excavations  at  Nineveh, 

Second  Visit  to  Nineveh, 

Explorations  of  Babylon,    .        .        •        •       .• 

Travels  op  Ida  Pfeipfeb, 

Journey  to  Palestine, 

Journey  to  Iceland, 

First  Journey  around  the  "World, 

Second  Journey  around  tho  "World,        .        . 

Explorations  of  the  Amazon  River,       ; 

Journey  of  Lieutenant  Herndon, 

Journey  of  Lieutenant  Gibbon,  . 

Richardson's  Travels  in  the  Sahara,  .       .       •       • 
Richardson  and  Barth's  Expedition  to  Central  Africa,      .       . 

Dr.  Barth's  Journey  to  Adamowa 

Dr.  Overwog's  Exploration  of  Lake  Tsad, 

Explorations  in  1851  and  1862, 

Explorations  of  Drs.  Barth  and  Vogel, 

Navigation  of  tho  River  Benue, 

Burton's  Pilgrimage  to  Mecca 

Exploration  op  Loo-Choo, 


Report  of  Bayard  Taylor, 


PAOK 

623 
623 
643 
650 
603 
661 
681 
681 
681 
696 
616 
G28 
G28 
642 
649 
666 
683 
697 
697 
706 
727 
727 
760 
754 
763 
,  763 
767 
773 
773 
.  776 
786 
.  796 
809 
.  809 
816 
.  822 
827 
.  827 
834 
.  838 
844 
.  .861 
861 
.  860 
871 
.  886 
895 
.  897 
900 
.  903 
905 
.  909 
916 
.  916 


S( 
"W 


N 

N 


Tj 


A 

T] 
Ci 


OfMHMM 


PAOI 

623 
623 
643 
650 
6&3 
661 
681 
681 
681 
696 
615 
628 
C28 
642 
649 
666 
683 
,  691 
697 
.  706 
727 
.  727 
760 
.  764 
763 
.  763 
767 
.  773 
773 
.  776 
786 
.  796 
809 
.  809 
816 
.  822 
827 
.  827 
834 
.  838 
844 
.  .851 
861 
.  860 
871 
.  885 
896 
.  897 
900 
.  903 
905 
.  909 
916 
.  916 


C0NTRNT8. 


XV 


LIST    OF    MAPS. 


South  America,     . 

Webterv  Afiiica. 

Syria,  etc.,     .... 

Nubia  and  Ethiopia, 

NoETHEK-v  America, 

Part  of  Siueria  and  Monqolia. 

Part  op  Africa, 

The  Nkier,     .... 

Eastern  Australia, 

Tartary,  Tiiiuet,  and  China, 

Assyria 

The  Amazon,     .... 
Central  Africa,  , 


FAGE 

Illustrating  llumboldCs    Travels,       ,        ,        .18 

Mmi'jo  Park's     "...  92 

"          liurd-harJi'd      "            ...  190 

"        '  CaiUiaud's          "...  244 

"           FraMin\s           "             ...  2a8 

"          Timkoiski's  and  Coctiraim'a  Travels,  348 

"           DerJuvii  and  Gtapi>erton^a         "  462 

"          iMnder's  Explorations,    .        .        .  623 

"          Sturt's                "...  680 

"           line's  Trareh,          ....  726 

"          Layard's  Explorations,        .        .  808 

"          Ilerrtdon  and  Gibbon's  Explorations,  850 

"          liickardson  and  Earth's  Expedition,  884 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Portraits  op  Distinouished  Travelers {Frontispiece) 

Falls  op  Tequendama, 62 

The  Volcano  op  Cotopaxi, 64 

Chimborazo, 67 

Sultan  Ali's  Tent  at  Benowm loi 

Kamaua, J15 

Excavated  Tomb  at  Petba, 227 

Fort  Ekteeprise, 293 

Wilberforcb  Falls, 298 

Lake  Tchad, 470 

BoDT-auARD  of  TUB  Shekh  op  Bornou  .       .        .       .        .        ,        .       .  473 

Arrival  at  Mora,  in  Mandara, 480 

Lancer  op  the  Sultan  op  Beoharmi, 484 

African  Forest, 509 

Scenery  op  the  Lower  Niger, 530 

Abokko, 537 

Lander's  Grave 562 

Mouth  op  the  Niger 554 

King  Obi  and  his  Wives, 655 

The  Model  Farm 556 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


Junction  of  niE  Mubrat  and  the  Daklino, 
Andekhon's  Falls,        .... 
ViKW  Seaward  trom  Montubal  Island, 
Scenery  or  Oman,       .... 
A  Wandebino  Afbican  Tridb,       . 
Warriors  or  Suoa,      .... 
Adyssinian  Warriors,     .... 
An  Abyssinian  Lady  op  Fashion, 
Pekin, 


Sauuadciiiemda, 

The  Hemp  Palm, 

Chinese  Tea-Caubier,         ... 

Bottle-tree  of  Australia, 

Natives  of  Australia, 

The  Mound  op  Nimroud  (Nineveh), 

The  Ruins  op  Babylon, 

Colossal  Winged  Lion,  pbom  Nineveh, 

ILLIMANI,   niOHEST  PEAK  OF  THE  ANDES, 

Descendino  the  Rapids  op  the  Madeira, 

Ghadames, 

The  Wells  op  Mislah 

Ghat, 

TuK  Demons'  Palace   .... 


nam 
691 

604 

611 

615 

664 

6C0 

670 

680 

121 

129 

765 

770 

779 

783 

809 

822 

825 

863 

868 

873 

877 

879 

887 


\ 


'^ 


VAOB 

691 

604 

611 

616 

664 

6C0 

670 

680 

727 

T29 

766 

770 

779 

783 

800 

822 

826 

,  863 
868 

.  873 
877 

.  879 
887 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS 


or 


ALEXANDER   VON   HUMBOLDT." 


SCIENTIFIC  EXPLORATIONS  IN  SOUTH  AMERICA,  WSXQO, 
RUSSIA,  SIBERIA,  AND  TARTARY, 


YOUTH    AND    EDUCATION. 

Alexander  Von  Humboldt,  the  oldest  and  most  renowned  of 
living  travelers,  was  bom  in  Berlin,  on  the  14th  of  September,  1769. 
His  youth  was  spent  in  the  castle  and  park  of  Tegel,  about  nine  miles 
north-west  of  that  city— an  estate  which  his  father,  Major  Von  Hum- 
boldt, purchased  at  the  termination  of  the  Seven  Years'  War,  when  ho 
was  appointed  chamberlain  to  Frederic  the  Great.  The  poet  Goethe, 
when  he  accompanied  the  Duke  of  Saxe-Weimar  to  Berlin,  m  the  year 
1778,  visited  Tegel,  and  there  saw  the  Major's  two  sons,  Wilhelm  and 
Alexander,  who  were  then  eight  and  ten  years  of  age,  but  could  scarcely 
recognize  in  them,  at  that  time,  his  future  friends  and  co-workers  in  the 
fields  of  literature  and  natural  science. 

*  Humboldt  ia  a  traveled  man  of  science,  rather  than  a  traveler.  Hta  passion  for 
scientific  investigation  is,  perhaps,  even  greater  than  his  individual  enjoymeut  of  new 
scenes  and  new  experiences.  Hence  I  have  found  it  difficult  to  Obtain  the  material  for 
a  connected  narrative  of  his  travels  and  explorations.  His  "  Personal  Narmtive,"  which 
was  written  to  supply  this  want,  at  the  request  of  his  friends,  is  a  rich  treasury  of  infor- 
mation, but  contributes  comparatively  little  to  the  end  in  view,  and  does  not  extend 
beyond  his  visit  to  Cuba,  in  the  year  1801,  The  remaining  portion  I  have  been  obliged 
to  construct  out  of  fragmentary  descriptions  scattered  through  his  other  works.  Klencke's 
"Life  of  Humboldt,'  on  which  I  have  relied  for  a  concise  statement  of  tho  scientific  re- 
suits  of  his  travels,  gives  but  the  merest  outline.  The  following  are  the  principal  works 
consulted  :  Humboldt's  "Personal  Narrative;"  Humboldt's  "Views  of  Nature"  Hum- 
boldt's "  Vuea  des  CordiUeres;"  Humboldt's  "New  Spain;"  Humboldt's  "Kleinere  Schr^. 
ten;"  Humboldt's  "  Aaie  CentraU;"  Rose's  "Jieite  naeh  den  UraL"  etc.  (Joamev  to  the 
Ural) ;  Klencke's  "  Life  of  Humboldt" 


r 


20 


LIFK    AND   TRAVELS    OF   HUMBOLDT. 


rli 


The  brothers  Humboldt  were  remarkably  fortunate  in  the  influences 
which  surrounded  them  in  early  life.  The  question  of  educational 
reform  was  beginning  to  engage  the  attention  of  scholars  and  states- 
men ;  the  ideas  of  Rousseau,  which  had  penetrated  into  Germany,  had 
given  rise  to  more  rational  and  liberal  pluis  for  the  instruction  of  youth. 
The  physical  development  of  the  scholar  received  its  due  share  of  atten- 
tion, and  the  study  of  natural  science  was  considered  of  no  less  import- 
ance than  that  of  metaphysics  and  the  classics.  The  first  tutor  employed 
by  Major  Yon  Humboldt  for  his  sons  was  Campe  (afterwards  distin- 
guished as  a  critic  and  philologist),  who  had  edited  a  German  edition 
of  Robinson  Crusoe,  and  had  written  several  books  for  children,  con- 
taining imaginary  narratives  of  travel  and  adventure.  It  is  very  prob- 
able that  these  books,  and  the  conversation  of  their  author,  first  excited 
the  passion  for  travel  in  the  mind  of  his  youngest  pupil.  By  him,  and 
the  tutors  who  succeeded  him,  the  boys  were  carefully  instructed  ac- 
cording to  their  years,  without  doing  violence  to  the  individual  bent  of 
their  natures.  They  were  allowed  to  pursue  different  paths  of  study, 
aiding  and  illustrating  each  other's  progress  by  the  mutual  communica- 
tion and  discussion  of  what  they  had  learned.  Alexander  soon  began 
to  show  his  inclination  for  the  study  of  nature.  In  his  eleventh  year  he 
received  lessons  in  botany,  and  thenceforth  devoted  himself  with  ardor 
to  that  and  kindred  sciences.  It  was  noticed,  however,  that  his  mind 
was  slow  to  retain  what  was  taught  him ;  his  body  was  weak,  and  not 
until  late  in  boyhood,  after  he  had  become  more  robust  and  vigorous, 
did  he  awake  to  a  full  consciousness  of  his  powers. 

In  the  year  1786,  the  brothers  entered  the  University  of  Frankfort- 
on-the-Oder,  where  they  remained  two  years,  and  were  then  transferred 
to  that  of  Gottmgen.  Here  Alexander,  now  in  his  nineteenth  year, 
made  the  acquaintance  of  Blumenbach,  the  celebrated  natural  historian, 
and  of  George  Forster,  who,  as  naturalist,  had  accompanied  Cook  in  his 
voyage  around  the  globe.  Through  the  friendship  of  .the  latter,  his 
longing  for  exploration  and  scientific  discovery  was  confirmed  and 
strengthened ;  and  he  acquired  that  love  of  civil  liberty,  those  humane 
and  progressive  ideas,  which  have  made  him,  while  the  friend  of  mon- 
archs,  the  most  liberal  of  citizens.  Of  the  admiration  which  he  felt  for 
Forster,  we  have  ample  testimony  in  the  second  volume  of  "  Cosmos," 
where  he  pays  an  eloquent  tribute  to  his  genius.  "  All  that  can  give 
truth,  individuality,  and  distinctiveness  to  the  delineation  of  exotio 
nature,  is  united  in  his  works." 

The  brothers  completed  their  studies  in  1789.  While  Wilhelm, 
whose  talents  fitted  him  for  political  life,  paid  a  visit  to  Paris,  Alexan- 
der, in  company  with  Forster,  made  his  first  scientific  journey  to  the 
I^ine,  through  Holland,  and  to  England  in  the  spring  of  1700;  and 
this  first  experience  became  the  subject  of  his  first  literary  production. 
It  appeared  in  the  same  year,  under  the  title  of  "  Mineralogical  Obser- 
vations on  some  Basaltic  Formations  of  the  Rhine."     After  studying 


I 


'•i 


the  influencea 
jf  educational 
irs  and  states- 
Germany,  had 
.ction  of  youth. 

share  of  atten- 
no  less  import- 
tutor  employed 
erwards  distin- 
Scrman  edition 
r  children,  con- 
It  is  very  prob- 
lor,  first  excited 
I.    By  him,  and 
J  instructed  ac- 
iividual  bent  of 

paths  of  study, 
tual  communica- 
ider  soon  began 
eleventh  year  he 
nself  with  ardor 
ir,  that  his  mind 
18  weak,  and  not 
ist  and  vigorous, 

ity  of  Frankfort- 
then  transferred 
nineteenth  year, 
natural  historian, 
mied  Cook  in  his 
»f  ,the  latter,  his 
confirmed  and 
ty,  those  humane 
le  friend  of  mon- 
which  he  felt  for 
ne  of  "  Cosmos," 
yi  that  can  give 
leation  of  exotio 

While  Wilbelm, 
o  Paris,  Alexan- 
Jc  journey  to  the 
ng  of  1790  ;  and 
erary  productiwi. 
leralogical  Obser- 
After  studying 


t 


PLANS   HIS    AMERICAN    JOURNEY. 


21 


book-keeping  in  a  commercial  institute  in  Hamburg,  he  removed  to 
Freiburg,  and  became  a  student  in  the  mining  academy,  where  he  re- 
mained until  the  spring  of  1 792,  when  he  received  the  appointment  of 
superintendent  of  mmes  in  Franconia,  an  office  which  he  held  for  the 
three  following  years.  During  this  time  he  zealously  prosecuted  his 
mineralogical  and  botanical  studies,  and  made  various  experiments  on 
the  physical  and  chemical  laws  of  metallurgy.  His  mind,  however,  was 
unsatisfied  with  his  position  ;  he  was  looking  forward  with  impatience 
to  the  opportunity  of  prosecuting  his  investigations  in  broader  and 
fresher  fields,  and  the  plan  of  his  great  American  journey,  which  ap- 
pears to  have  been  first  made  during  his  intimacy  with  Forstcr,  pre- 
sented itself  constantly  to  his  imagination.  In  order  to  prepare  himself 
for  an  undertaking  of  such  magnitude,  he  made  several  visits  to  Swit- 
zerland and  the  mountains  of  Silesia,  besides  an  official  journey  into 
I*rus8ian  Poland.  Thenceforth,  this  vision  of  transatlantic  travel  and 
exploration  became  the  ruling  aim  of  his  life.  He  thus  refers  to  it  in 
the  opening  chapter  of  his  "  Personal  Narrative :" — "  From  my  earliest 
youth,  I  felt  an  ardent  desire  to  travel  into  distant  regions,  seldom 
visited  by  Europeans.  This  desire  is  characteristic  of  a  period  of  our 
existence  when  life  appears  an  unlimited  hori?on,  and  when  we  find  an 
irresistible  attraction  in  the  impetuous  agitation  of  the  mind,  and  thu 
image  of  positive  danger.  Though  educated  in  a  country  which  has  no 
direct  communication  with  either  the  East  or  the  West  Indies,  living 
amid  mountains  remote  from  coasts,  and  celebrated  for  their  numerous 
mines,  I  felt  an  increasing  passion  for  the  sea  and  distant  expeditions. 
Objects  with  which  we  are  acquainted  only  by  the  animated  narratives 
of  travelers  have  a  peculiar  charm ;  imagination  wanders  with  delight 
over  that  which  is  vague  and  undefined ;  and  the  pleasures  we  are  de- 
prived of  seem  to  possess  a  fascinating  power,  compared  with  which,  all 
we  daily  feel  in  the  narrow  circle  of  sedentary  life  appears  insipid." 

Resigning  his  office  in  1795,  Humboldt  visited  Vienna,  where  he 
associated  himself  with  the  celebrated  Freieslebcn,  and  resumed  the 
study  of  botany.  He  also  occupied  himself  with  galvanism,  then  just 
discovered,  and  planned  a  visit  to  the  volcanic  districts  of  Naples  and 
Sicily,  which  he  was  unable  to  carry  out,  on  account  of  the  war.  The 
death  of  his  mother,  and  the  disposition  of  the  paternal  estates,  now 
called  him  away  from  his  studies,  and  it  was  not  until  1797  that  he  was 
able  to  make  serious  preparations  for  his  American  journey.  In  order 
to  supply  himself  with  ample  means,  he  sold  the  large  estate  which  he 
had  inherited,  and  set  aside  the  greater  part  of  the  proceeds  for  that 
object.  But  he  was  yet  to  encounter  delays  and  obstacles,  which  would 
have  exhausted  the  patience  of  a  less  enthusiastic  person.  The  brothers 
had  long  talked  of  a  journey  to  Italy  in  company,  and  it  was  decided 
to  carry  out  this  plan  prior  to  Alexander's  departure,  but,  on  reaching 
Vienna,  their  progress  was  stopped  by  the  war  between  France  and 
Austria.    Alexander  spent  the  winter  of  1797-8  in  Salzburg,  where  he 


: 


22 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


'1» 


111 


met  with  a  gentleman  who  had  visited  Illjrria  and  Greece,  and  who  was 
ardently  desirous  of  making  a  journey  to  Egypt.  The  two  enthusiasts 
matured  a  plan  of  ascending  the  Nile  as  far  as  the  Nubian  frontier,  to 
be  followed  by  an  exploration  of  Palestine  and  Syria ;  but  the  political 
aspects  of  Europe  at  this  time  prevented  them  from  carryhig  it  into 
effect.  In  the  spring,  Humboldt,  hearing  that  the  French  government 
was  fitting  out  an  exploring  expedition,  to  bo  dispatched  to  the  southern 
hemisphere,  under  the  conmiand  of  Captain  Baudin,  hastened  to  Paris, 
whither  his  brother  had  proceeded,  after  the  peace  of  Campo  Formio. 
Here  he  first  met  with  M.  Aimo  Bonj)land,  his  future  companion  in 
South  America,  who  had  been  appointed  one  of  the  naturalists  of  the 
expedition.  They  entered  together  on  a  course  of  preparatory  study, 
while  Humboldt,  at  the  same  time,  united  with  the  celebrated  Gay- 
LuBsac,  in  making  experiments  to  determine  the  composition  of  the  at- 
mosphere. In  addition  to  these  labors,  he  found  time  to  study  the  Arabii 
language.  His  intellectual  activity  appears  to  have  been  truly  remark- 
able, and  there  was  scarcely  any  branch  of  knowledge,  which  could  even 
remotely  increase  his  qualifications  for  the  great  task  before  him,  of 
which  he  did  not  make  himself  master. 

Baudin's  expedition  was  given  tip,  on  account  of  the  renewed  prospect 
of  war.  But  the  spirit  of  travel  was  now  thoroughly  implanted  in  Hum- 
boldt's heart,  and  he  at  once  set  about  forming  new  plans.  Being  offered 
passage  from  Marseilles  to  Algiers,  in  a  Swedish  frigate,  which  was  dis- 
patched on  a  special  mission  to  the  latter  country,  he  conceived  the  idea 
of  passing  through  Barbary  to  Egypt,  and  there  joining  the  French 
scientific  mission,  which  accompanied  the  army  of  Napoleon.  Ho  also 
proposed  to  visit  3Iecca,  if  possible,  and  to  extend  his  travels  through 
Persia  to  India.  In  these  plans  uo  was  seconded  by  Bonpland,  who 
joined  company  with  him,  and  in  the  autumn  of  1798  they  both  pro- 
ceeded to  Mareeilles,  t"  await  the  arrival  of  the  Swedish  frigate.  Here, 
again,  ihey  were  doomed  to  disappointment.  Aft;er  waiting  two  months, 
they  learned  that  the  frigate  had  been  inj tried  in  a  storm  on  the  coast 
of  Portugal,  and  would  not  arrive  until  the  following  spring.  During  a 
visit  to  Toulon,  Humboldt  saw  the  fiigata  La  JBoudeitse,  which  had 
been  commanded  by  Bongainville  in  his  voyage  around  the  world.  He 
says :  "  I  can  not  describe  the  impression  made  upon  my  mind  by  the 
sight  of  the  vessel  which  had  carried  Commerson  to  the  islands  of  the 
South  Sea."  Rather  than  remain  inactive  iil  Marseilles,  the  two  friends 
resolved  to  pass  the  winter  in  Spain.  They  proceeded,  by  way  of  Bar- 
celona, to  Madrid,  making  astronomical  observ-ations  and  barometrical 
measurements  on  the  road.  On  arriving  at  the  capital,  they  found  that 
the  accident  to  the  Swedish  frigate  was  the  best  fortune  which  could 
have  befallen  them.  The  Saxon  embassador  informed  Humboldt  that 
under  the  administration  of  the  enlightened  minister,  Urquijo,  he  might 
obtain  permission  to  travel  in  Spanish  America,  a  permission  which, 
through  the  jealousy  of  Spain,  had  hitherto  been  obtained  with  gi-eat 


,  and  who  was 
wo  enthusiasts 
an  frontier,  to 
ut  the  political 
irrying  it  into 
;h  government 
0  the  southern 
tened  to  Paris, 
Jampo  Formio. 

companion  in 
ituralists  of  the 
paratory  study, 
:elebrated  Gay- 
isition  of  the  at- 
tudy  the  Arabia 
n  truly  remark- 
hich  could  even 

before  him,  of 

mewed  prospect 
planted  in  Ilum- 
).    Being  offered 
,  which  was  dis- 
nceived  the  idea 
ing  the  French 
loleon.    Ho  also 
travels  through 
Bonpland,  who 
they  both  pro- 
i  frigate.    Here, 
ing  two  months, 
jrm  on  the  coast 
ring.    Daring  a 
euse,  which  had 
the  world.    He 
my  mind  by  the 
le  islands  of  the 
I,  the  two  friends 
by  way  of  Bar- 
ind  barometrical 
they  found  that 
tune  which  could 
Humboldt  that 
rquijo,  he  might 
ermission  which, 
,uncd  with  gi'eat 


DEPARTURE   FOR   AlCERICA. 


23 


difficulty,  and  always  accompanied  with  restrictions,  which  greatly  di- 
minished its  value.  Humboldt  thus  relates  the  result  of  his  application : 
"I  was  presented  at  the  court  of  Aranjuez  in  March,  1790,  and  the  king 
received  me  graciously.  I  explained  to  him  the  motives  which  led  me 
to  undertake  a  voyage  to  the  New  World,  and  the  Philippine  Islands, 
and  I  presented  a  memoir  on  the  subject  to  the  Secretary  of  State.  Seflor 
de  Urquijo  supported  my  demand,  and  overcame  every  obstacle.  I  ob- 
tained two  passports,  one  from  the  first  Secretary  of  State,  the  other  from 
the  Council  of  the  Indies.  Never  had  so  extensive  a  permission  been 
granted  to  any  traveler,  and  never  had  any  foreigner  been  honored  with 
more  confidence  on  the  part  of  the  Spanish  government." 


VOYAGE   TO    AMERICA. 

Orerflowing  with  joy  at  the  unhoped-for  realization  of  desires  which 
he  had  cherished  for  nine  years,  and  full  of  the  anticipation  of  adventure 
and  discovery  in  the  New  World,  Humboldt  lefl  Madrid  in  May,  1 799, 
accompanied  by  Bonpland,  and  proceeded  to  Corunna,  on  the  north- 
western coast  of  Spain,  where  the  corvette  Pizarro,  bound  for  Havana 
and  Mexico,  was  lying.  The  captain  was  ordered,  not  only  to  receive 
the  travelers  on  board,  and  provide  a  safe  place  for  their  astronomical 
instruments,  but  also  to  touch  at  the  port  of  Orotava,  in  the  Canaries, 
and  allow  them  time  to  ascend  the  peak  of  Teneriffe.  Corunna  was  at 
that  time  blockaded  by  an  English  fleet,  owing  to  which  cause  the  sail- 
ing of  the  Pizarro  was  postponed  from  day  to  day,  but  in  the  beginning 
of  June  a  violent  storm  obliged  the  three  hostile  vessels  to  make  for  the 
open  sea,  and  on  the  fifth  the  corvette  hoisted  her  anchors,  and  safely 
slipped  away.  The  moment  so  impatiently  looked  forward  to,  through 
so  many  years,  was  come  at  last :  aflcr  so  much  severe  study,  so  much 
devotion  to  his  object,  such  rich  and  various  preparation,  Humboldt, 
now  thirty  years  of  age,  entered  on  the  magnificent  task,  which  he  con- 
sidered the  great  work  of  bis  life,  and  the  tbimdation  of  his  fame  as  a 
man  of  science.  No  man  was  ever  better  prepared,  both  by  nature  and 
by  cultivation,  for  such  an  undertaking,  or  better  deserved  success  by 
the  patience  and  enthusiasm  with  which  he  overcame  the  obstacles  in 
the  way  of  its  accomplishment.  But  the  beginnings  of  success  are  al- 
ways clouded  with  doubt  and  uncertainty,  and  when  the  irrevocable  step 
had  been  taken,  he  experienced  that  sense  of  depression  common  to  all 
travelers  on  first  setting  out,  and  he  thus  wrote:  "The  moment  of 
leaving  Europe  for  the  first  time,  is  attended  with  a  solemn  feeling.  We 
in  vain  summon  to  our  minds  the  frequency  of  the  communication  be- 
tween the  two  worlds ;  we  in  vain  reflect  on  the  great  facility  with 
which,  from  the  improved  state  of  navigation,  we  traverse  the  Atlantic, 
which,  compared  to  the  Pacific,  is  but  a  larger  arm  of  the  sea ;  the  senti- 
ment we  feel  when  we  first  undertake  so  distant  a  voyage,  is  not  the  less 


> 


I 


«; 


24 


LIFE  AND   TBAYELS   OF   HUlfBOLDT 


\t 
I 


:ii 


f 


accompanied  by  a  deep  emotion,  nnlike  any  other  impreaaon  we  have 
hitherto  felt  Separated  from  the  objects  of  our  dearest  affections,  enter- 
ing in  some  sort  on  a  new  state  of  existence,  we  are  forced  to  fidl  back 
on  oar  own  thoughts,  and  we  feel  within  ourselves  a  dreariness  we  have 
never  known  before."  The  light  of  a  fisher's  hut  at  Sisarga,  glimmering 
like  a  star  on  the  horizon,  was  his  last  glimpse  of  Europe.  He  and  B<»i- 
pland  leaned  over  the  nul,  watchbg  it  until  it  disappeared.  ''  Oh,'*  he 
exclaimed,  years  afterward,  "those  impressions  will  never  be  erased 
from  my  memory !  How  many  recollections  does  not  one  bright  spot, 
shining  unsteadily  over  the  agitated  waves  in  the  darkness  of  night,  and 
pointing  out  the  shores  of  our  native  earth,  recall  to  the  imagination  1'* 

At  sunset,  on  the  8th  of  June,  the  English  fleet  was  seen  from  the 
mast-head,  and  the  course  of  the  Pizarro  was  immediately  altered.  For 
some  days  no  lights  were  allowed  on  board  after  dark,  for  fear  of  de- 
tection, and  the  travelers  were  obliged  to  use  dark  lanterns  in  consulting 
the  thermometer.  Nothing  could  have  surpassed  the  enthusiasm  with 
which  they  prosecuted  their  scientifio  investigations.  In  Humboldt's 
narrative,  the  romance  of  travel  is  wholly  lost  sight  of  in  the  zeal  of  the 
philosopher.  No  sooner  had  he  left  the  land  than  he  began  to  speculate 
on  the  currents  of  the  sea,  and  to  measure  their  force  and  direction.  He 
fished  up  medusas,  or  sea-nettles,  galvanized  them,  and  tested  their  oar 
pacity  to  emit  light ;  he  was  enchanted  with  the  beauty  of  the  nights, 
but  noi  too  much  so  to  make  astrcaomical  observations ;  ho  admired  the 
brilliant  az  ire  of  the  tropical  sky,  and  measured  its  intensity  of  color 
with  a  cyanik>si<4ter ;  and  when  the  island  of  Lancerote,  one  of  the  Cana- 
ries, came  in  sight,  he  immediately  took  the  angle  of  altitude  of  its 
highest  peak.  So  far  from  being  insensible  to  the  influences  of  nature, 
few  travelers  have  enjoyed  them  with  a  keener  zest,  but  hih  glance  never 
rests  long  upon  a  beautiful  scene  without  going  behind  its  outward 
features,  to  speculate  upon  the  geognostic  laws  which  they  illustrate. 
His  "  Personal  Narrative"  is  therefore  a  record  of  his  scientifio  observa- 
tions rather  than  of  his  individual  experience  and  adventure. 

On  approaching  the  island  of  Teneriffe,  the  weather  was  so  hazy 
that  the  peak  was  invisible,  greatly  to  Humboldt's  disappointment.  This 
circumstance,  however,  proved  to  be  very  fortunate ;  for  after  entering 
the  harbor  of  Santa  Cruz,  early  on  the  morning  of  the  10th  of  June,  the 
mist  cleared  away,  and  the  first  rays  of  the  sun  which  illuminated  the 
famous  peak,  revealed  also  four  English  vessels  lying  at  anchor.  Thus 
narrowly  did  the  travelers  escape  being  carried  back  to  Europe,  at  the 
outset  of  their  journey !  On  account  of  the  blockade,  the  captain  gave 
them  notice  that  he  could  only  remain  four  or  five  days,  and  they  hast- 
ened to  the  town  of  Orotava,  where  they  procured  guides  to  ascend  the 
peak.  They  first  visited  the  celebrated  dragon-tree,  the  trunk  of  which 
they  found  to  be  forty-five  feet  in  circumf '<-'>r><',<j,  and  the  great  age  of 
which  they  could  only  conjecture.  Humboldt  considers  it  to  be  one  of 
the  oldest  inhabitants  of  our  globe:  "Its  aspect,"  he  says,  "forcibly 


P^ 
ui 

of  J 


eaBumwehare 
SSeotions,  enter- 
id  to  &11  back 
riness  we  have 
ga,  glimmering 

He  and  Bon- 
ed. "Oh,'»  he 
ever  be  erased 
ne  bright  spot, 
BS  of  night,  and 
e  imagination  I" 
I  seen  from  the 
ly  altered.  For 
for  fear  of  do- 
ns in  consulting 
enthnoasm  with 
In  Humboldt's 
a  the  zeal  of  the 
>gan  to  speculate 
id  direction.  He 
tested  their  ear 
ity  of  the  nights, 
;  ho  admired  the 
nteuMty  of  color 
one  oftheCana- 
)f  altitude  of  its 
uences  of  nature, 
I  hit!  glance  never 
lind  its  outward 
h  they  illustrate, 
sdentific  observar 
iture. 

her  was  so  haiy 
)pointment.  This 
ifor  after  entering 
19thof  June,  the 
)h  illuminated  the 
at  anchor.  Thus 
to  Europe,  at  the 

the  captain  gave 
ys,  and  they  hast- 
ides  to  ascend  th0 
»e  trunk  of  which 
the  great  age  of 

rs  it  to  be  one  of 
le  says,  "forcibly 


1 


ASCENT   OF   TENERIFFK. 


26 


exemplifies  that  eternal  youth  of  nature,  which  is  an  inexhaustible  source 
of  motion  and  of  life."  Leaving  Orotava,  Humboldt  and  his  companion 
took  a  stony  road  through  a  forest  of  chestnut-trees,  continued  their 
ascent  to  an  elevated  plateau,  called  the  Plain  of  Jietama  (a  flowering 
shrub),  and  before  night  succeeded  in  reaching  a  kind  of  cavern,  called 
the  English  Halt,  nearly  ten  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  Though  in 
the  midst  of  sunmier,  and  under  an  African  sky,  they  suffered  much 
from  cold,  the  thermometer  falling  to  41°.  Humboldt  thus  describes 
their  lodging-place.  "  Our  guides  made  a  large  fire  with  the  dry  brandies 
of  retama.  Having  neither  tents  nor  cloaks,  we  lay  down  on  some  masHcs 
of  rock,  and  were  singularly  incommoded  by  the  flame  and  smoke  which 
the  wind  drove  toward  us.  We  had  attempted  to  form  a  kind  of  screen 
with  cloths  tied  together,  but  our  inclosure  took  fire,  which  we  did  not 
perceive  till  the  greater  part  had  been  consumed  by  the  flames.  Wo 
had  never  passed  a  night  on  a  point  so  elevated,  and  we  then  little  im- 
agined that  we  should,  one  day,  on  the  ridge  of  the  Cordilleras,  inhabit 
towns  higher  than  the  sununit  of  the  volcano  we  were  to  scale  on  the 
morrow.  A  strong  northerly  wind  chased  the  clouds ;  the  moon,  at 
intervals,  shooting  through  the  vapors,  exposed  its  disc  on  a  firmament 
of  the  darkest  blue ;  and  the  view  of  the  volcano  threw  a  majestic  char- 
acter over  the  nocturnal  scenery.  Sometimes  the  peak  was  entirely  hid- 
den from  our  eyes  by  the  fog,  at  other  times  it  broke  upon  us  in  terrific 
proximity ;  and,  like  an  enormous  pyramid,  threw  its  shadow  over  the 
clouds  rolling  beneath  our  feet."  At  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  they 
lighted  fir-torches,  and  started  on  their  journey  to  the  summit.  They 
reached  the  Malpays — a  stony  plain  out  of  which  rises  tho  volcanic  cone 
— in  time  to  witness  the  rising  of  the  sun.  By  means  of  a  telescope  and 
chronometer,  Humboldt  ascertained  that  the  time  which  the  disc  occupied 
in  mounting  above  the  horizon,  was  eight  minutes  and  one  second.  He 
was  half  an  hour  in  scaling  the  cone,  the  height  of  which  above  the  plain 
is  only  five  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  but  finally  reached  the  summit, 
one  thousand  nine  hundred  and  four  toises — twelve  thousand  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-four  feet — above  the  sea,  at  eight  o'clock.  Here,  seated 
on  a  block  of  lava,  he  overlooked  a  portion  of  the  earth's  surface,  equal 
in  dimensions  to  one  fourth  of  the  kingdom  of  Spain.  In  the  transpa- 
rency of  the  air  he  could  distinguish  not  only  the  houses,  the  sails  of 
vessels,  and  the  trunks  of  trees,  far  below,  but  even  the  differences  of 
color  in  the  vegetation.  "  The  volcano  seemed  to  overwhelm  with  its 
mass  the  island  which  serves  as  its  base,  as  it  shot  up  from  the  bosom  of 
the  waters  to  a  height  three  times  loftier  than  the  region  where  the 
clouds  float  in  summer.  If  its  crater,  halfextinguished  for  ages  past, 
shot  forth  flakes  of  fire  like  that  of  Stromboli  in  the  ^olian  Islands,  the 
Peak  of  Teneriffe,  like  a  light-house,  would  serve  to  guide  the  mariner 
in  a  circuit  of  more  than  two  hundred  and  sixty  leagues." 

After  having  bottled  some  air  for  analysis,  and  collected  some  crystals 
of  sulphur,  bedewed  with  sulphuric  acid,  which  destroyed  part  of  Hum- 


■•• 


26 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    HUMBOLDT. 


\i 


boldrs  mincralogical  journal,  the  travelers  began  their  dosoent.  The 
cold  and  violent  wind  often  obliged  them  to  seek  shelter  under  the  rocks. 
Their  hands  and  faces  were  nearly  frozen,  while  their  boots  were  burned 
by  the  hot  ashes.  The  guides  threw  away  their  specimens,  drank  their 
wine,  and  broke  their  water-jars.  They  met  with  no  further  accident, 
however,  and  before  night  reached  Orotava.  This  ascent  of  the  Peak 
of  Tcneriffo,  although  it  occupied  but  two  days,  was  most  important  in 
its  results.  The  observations  made  by  Humbdldt  gave  him  the  first  idea 
of  those  researches  into  tho  geographical  distribution  of  plants  and  an- 
imals, which  entitle  him  to  rank  as  the  founder  of  this  branch  of  cos- 
mography. He  perceived  that  the  inorganic  forms  of  nature,  such  as 
mountains  and  rocks,  resemble  each  other  in  the  most  distant  parts  of 
tho  world,  Avhile  the  organic  forms — plants  and  animals — vary  according 
to  climate,  character  of  the  soil,  altitude  above  the  sea,  and  other  local 
influences.  From  observing  tho  circles  of  vegetation  on  Teneriffe — 
rising  from  tho  cocoa-palm  on  tho  sea-shore,  through  the  regions  of 
chestnut,  heath,  and  fir,  to  the  fragrant  retama  at  the  base  of  the  crater 
— he  was  led  to  renew  his  investigations  on  the  slopes  of  tho  Andes. 

On  the  25th  of  June  they  sailed  from  Santa  Cruz,  and  some  days  after- 
ward passed  through  the  Sargasso  Sea — a  part  of  the  ocean  covered  with 
immense  beds  of  sea-weed,  among  which  stems  have  been  found  eight 
hundred  feet  in  length,  and  which,  floating  on  the  surface,  give  the  sea 
the  appearance  of  a  vast  inundated  meadow.  The  appearance  of  the 
nocturnal  heavens,  as  tho  ship  proceeded  southward,  excited  anew  the 
enthusiasm  of  tho  travelers.  "  Nothing,"  writes  Humboldt,  "  awakens 
in  the  traveler  a  livelier  remembrance  of  the  immense  distance  by  which 
he  is  separated  from  his  country,  than  the  aspect  of  an  unknown  firma- 
ment. A  traveler  needs  not  to  be  a  botanist,  to  recognize  the  torrid 
zone  by  tho  mere  aspect  of  its  vegetation.  Without  having  acquired 
any  notions  of  astronomy,  he  feels  he  is  not  in  Europe,  when  he  sees  the 
immense  constellation  of  the  Ship,  or  the  phosphorescent  Clouds  of 
Magellan,  arise  on  the  horizon.  The  heavens  and  tho  earth — every 
thing  in  the  equinoctial  regions — present  an  exotic  character.  We  saw 
distinctly  for  the  first  time  the  Southern  Cross  only  on  tho  night  of 
tho  4th  of  July,  in  the  sixteenth  degree  of  latitude.  It  was  strongly 
inclined,  and  appeared  from  time  to  time  between  the  clouds,  the  center 
of  which,  furrowed  by  nncondcnsed  lightnings,  reflected  a  silvery  light. 
If  a  tniveler  may  be  permitted  to  speak  of  his  personal  emotions,  I  shall 
add,  that  on  that  night  I  cxperienoed  the  realization  of  one  of  the  dreams 
of  my  early  youth. 

"  The  two  great  stars  which  mark  the  sammit  and  the  foot  of  the 
Cress,  having  nearly  the  same  right  ascension,  it  follows  that  the  con- 
stellation is  almost  perpendicular  at  the  moment  when  it  passes  the  me- 
ridian. This  circumstance  is  known  to  the  people  of  every  nation 
situated  beyond  the  tropics,  or  in  the  southern  hemisphere.  It  has  been 
observed  at  what  hour  of  the  night,  in  different  seasons,  the  Cross  is 


OT. 

r  dcscont.    The 
under  the  rocks, 
►ots  were  burned 
ncna,  drank  their 
further  accident, 
cent  of  the  Peak 
o8t  important  in 
him  the  first  idea 
jf  plants  and  an- 
is  branch  of  cos- 
)f  nature,  such  as 
t  distant  parts  of 
s — ^vary  according 
a,  and  other  local 
m  on  Teneriffe — 
;h  the  regions  of 
base  of  the  crater 
of  the  Andes, 
id  some  days  after- 
3ccan  covered  with 
!  been  found  eight 
rface,  give  the  sea 
appearance  of  the 
I,  excited  anew  the 
amboldt,  "awakens 
3  distance  by  which 
an  unknown  firma- 
ecognize  the  torrid 
lut  having  acquired 
)e,  when  he  sees  the 
lorescent  Clouds  of 
d  the  earth— every 
character.    We  saw 
ily  on  the  night  of 
lo.    It  was  strongly 
he  clouds,  the  center 
jcted  a  silvery  light, 
jnal  emotions,  I  shall 
of  one  of  the  dreams 

and  the  foot  of  the 
■ollows  that  the  con- 
hen  it  passes  the  me- 
jplc  of  every  nation 
lisphere.  It  has  been 
;  seasons,  the  Cross  ia 


DEATH    ON    BOARD. 


27 


J 


erect  or  inclined.  It  is  a  timepiece  which  advances  very  regularly  nearly 
four  minutes  a-day,  and  no  other  groiip  of  stars  aflbrds  to  the  naked  cyo 
an  observation  of  time  so  easily  made.  How  often  have  wo  hoard  our 
guides  exclaim  in  the  savannahs  of  Venezuela,  or  in  the  desert  extending 
from  Lima  to  Truxillo,  "  Midnight  is  past,  the  Cross  begins  to  bend !" 
How  often  those  words  reminded  us  of  that  affecting  scone,  whore  Paul 
and  Virginia,  seated  near  the  source  of  the  river  of  Latanicrs,  convorsod 
together  for  the  last  time,  and  whore  the  old  man,  at  the  sight  of  the 
Southern  Cross,  warns  them  that  it  is  time  to  separate." 

The  latter  part  of  the  voyage  was  not  so  fortunate  as  tlio  first.     A 
malignant  fever  broke  out,  which  grew  more  serious  the  nearer  the  sliip 
approached  the  Antilles.    On  the  12th  of  July,  Humboldt,  who  had 
taken  obsei-vations  of  the  latitude  and  longitude  every  day  during  the 
voyage,  predicted  that  land  would  bo  seen  the  next  day  before  sunrise. 
The  pilots,  who  depended  mostly  on  the  log  for  their  reckoning,  laughed 
at  this,  asserting  that  they  would  not  make  land  for  two  or  throe  days ; 
but  at  six  o'clock  next  morning,  the  welcome  cry  was  given  by  a  sailor 
at  the  mast-head.    The  land  proved  to  bo  the  island  of  Tobago.    The 
next  day  a  young  Asturian,  nineteen  years  of  age,  fell  a  victim  to  the 
fovor,  and  his  death  seems  to  have  produced  a  painfid  impression  upon 
the  mind  of  Humboldt,  who  thus  describes  the  occurrence:  "We  were 
assembled  on  the  deck,  absorbed  in  melancholy  reflections.     It  was  no 
longer  doubtful,  that  the  fever  which  raged  on  board,  had  assumed  with- 
in  the  last  few  days  a  fatal  aspect.    Our  eyes  were  fixed  on  a  hilly  and 
desert  coast,  on  which  the  moon,  from  time  to  time,  shed  her  light 
athwart  the  clouds.  The  sea,  gently  agitated,  emitted  a  feeble  phosphoric 
light.    Nothing  was  heard  but  the  monotonous  cry  of  a  few  large  sea- 
birds,  flying  toward  the  shore.    A  profound  calm  reigned  over  these 
solitary  regions,  but  this  calm  of  nature  was  in  discordance  with  the 
painful  feelings  by  which  we  were  oppressed.    About  eight  o'clock,  the 
dead  man's  knell  was  slowly  tolled.    At  this  lugubrious  sound,  tho  sail- 
ors  suspended  their  labors,  and  threw  themselves  on  their  knees  to  offer 
a  momentary  prayer :  an  affecting  ceremony,  which  brought  to  our  re- 
mombrance  those  times,  when  the  primitive  Christians  all  considered 
themselves  as  members  of  tho  same  family.   All  were  united  in  one  com- 
mon  sorrow  for  a  misfortune  which  was  felt  to  be  common  to  all." 
Many  of  tho  passengers,  becoming  alarmed,  induced  the  captain  to  run 
into  Cumana,  a  port  on  the  north-eastern  shore  of  Venezuela,  and  there 
land  them,  rather  than  continue  their  voyage  in  the  Pizarro  to  Havana. 
Among  them  were  Humboldt  and  Bonpland,  who  decided  to  visit  Vene- 
zuela before  proceeding  to  Mexico,  and  thus  the  epidemic  which  they 
at  first  regarded  as  a  misfortune,  became  the  accidental  cause  of  their 
discoveries  in  tho  regions  of  the  Orinoco.    To  tho  same  circumstance 
they  won  also  indebted  for  the  preservation  of  their  heo'tij,  for  the  yel- 
low-fever was  then  prevailing  in  Havana,  and  many  of  the  passengers 
who  remained  on  board  of  the  Pizarro,  fell  victims  to  it  after  their  arrival. 


r 


V 


28 


LIFE  AND  TBAVBLS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


"On  the  16th  of  July,  1709,  at  break  of  day,"  says  Humboldt,  "wo 
beheld  a  verdant  coast,  of  picturesque  aspect.  Tlic  mountains  of  New 
Andalusia,  half  vailed  by  mists,  bounded  the  horizon  to  the  south.  The 
city  of  Curaana  and  its  castle  appeared  between  groups  of  cocoa-trees. 
We  anchored  in  the  port  about  nine  in  the  morning,  forty-one  days  a^.cr 
our  departure  from  Corunna ;  the  sick  dragged  themselves  on  deck  to 
enjoy  the  sight  of  a  land  which  was  to  put  an  end  to  their  sufferings. 
Our  eyes  were  fixed  on  the  groups  of  cocoa-trees  which  border  the 
river ;  their  trunks,  more  than  sixty  feet  high,  towered  over  every  ob- 
ject in  the  landscape.  The  plain  was  covered  with  the  tufts  of  cassia, 
caper,  and  those  arborescent  mimosas,  which,  like  the  pine  of  Italy, 
spread  their  branches  in  the  form  of  an  umbrella.  The  pinnated  leaves 
of  the  palms  were  conspicuous  on  the  azure  sky,  the  clearness  of  which 
was  unsullied  by  any  trace  of  vapor.  The  sun  wan  ascendmg  rapidly 
toward  the  zenith.  A  dazzling  light  was  spread  through  the  air,  along 
the  whitish  hills  strewed  with  cylindric  cactuses,  and  over  a  sea  ever 
calm,  the  shores  of  M-hich  M'cro  peopled  with  pelicans,  herons,  and  fla- 
mingoes. The  splendor  of  the  day,  the  vivid  coloring  of  the  vegetable 
world,  the  forms  of  the  plants,  the  varied  plumage  of  the  birds,  all  were 
stamped  with  the  grand  character  of  nature  in  the  equinoctial  regions." 

The  captain  of  the  Pizarro  conducted  the  travelers  to  the  Governor 
of  the  province,  Sefior  Emparan,  who  received  them  with  great  kind- 
ness, and  by  the  public  consideration  which  ho  showed  them,  secured 
them  a  favorable  reception  in  all  parts  of  Venezuela.  To  their  great 
astonishment,  he  asked  them  questions  which  denoted  some  scientific 
knowledge,  and  Humboldt  declares,  in  his  delight  at  this  circumstance, 
"The  name  of  liis  native  country,  pronounced  on  a  distant  shore,  would 
not  have  been  more  agreeable  to  the  car  of  a  traveler,  than  those  words 
azote,  oxyd  of  iron,  and  hygrometer,  were  to  ours."  The  travelers  hired 
a  spacious  house,  in  a  situation  favorable  for  astronomical  observa- 
tions, and  commenced  their  labors  at  once.  "  Overpowered  at  once  by 
a  great  number  of  objects,  we  were  somewhat  embarrassed  how  to  lay 
down  a  regular  plan  of  study  and  observation.  While  every  surround- 
ing object  was  fitted  to  inspire  in  us  the  most  lively  interest,  our  phys- 
ical and  astronomical  instruments  in  their  turns  excited  strongly  the 
curiosity  of  the  inhabitants.  We  had  numerous  visitors ;  and  in  our 
desire  to  satisfy  persons  who  appeared  so  happy  to  see  the  spots  of  the 
moon  through  Dollond's  telescope,  the  absorption  of  two  gases  in  a  eu- 
diometrical  tube,  or  the  cficcts  of  galvanism  on  the  motions  of  a  fi-og, 
we  were  obliged  to  answer  questions  often  obscure,  and  to  repeat  for 
whole  hours  the  same  experiments." 

Humboldt  found  relaxation  from  these  annoyances  in  botanizing,  and 
in  studying  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  inhabitants.  He  was  par- 
ticularly interested  in  the  gigantic  varieties  of  cactus,  which,  planted 
around  the  Spanish  fortresses,  formed  an  almost  impenetrable  chevaux- 
de-frise,  while  the  moats,  for  further  defense,  were  fiUed  with  swarms  of 


al 


mmm 


)T. 

lumboldt,  "  wo 
intains  of  New 
he  south.    The 
i  of  cocoa-trees. 
y-ono  days  a^'vcr 
•lvc8  on  deck  to 
their  Bufferings, 
lich  border  the 
I  over  every  ob- 
!  tufts  of  cassia, 
B  pine  of  Italy, 
pinnated  leaves 
earness  of  which 
scending  rapidly 
h  the  air,  along 
I  over  a  sea  ever 
herons,  and  fla- 
of  the  vegetable 
le  birds,  all  were 
inoctial  regions." 
to  the  Governor 
with  great  kind- 
ed  them,  secured 

To  their  great 
1  some  scientific 
Ills  circumstance, 
tant  shore,  would 
than  those  words 
10  travelers  hired 
lomical  observa- 
rered  at  once  by 
rassed  how  to  lay 

every  surround- 
nterest,  our  phys- 
ited  strongly  the 
itors ;  and  in  our 

the  spots  of  the 
two  gases  in  a  eu- 
lotions  of  a  frog, 
ind  to  repeat  for 


m 


botanizing,  and 
nts.  He  was  par- 
tis, which,  planted 
netrable  chevaux- 
d  with  swarms  of 


EXCURSIONS   AROUND    CUMANA. 


29 


alligators.  Among  the  customs  of  the  inhabitants  of  Cumana,  he  de- 
scribes the  following :  "  The  children  pass  a  considerable  part  of  their 
lives  in  the  water ;  all  the  inhabitants,  even  the  women  of  the  most 
opulent  families,  know  how  to  swim ;  and  in  a  country  where  ni.in  is  so 
near  the  state  of  nature,  one  of  the  first  questions  asked  on  meeting  in 
the  morning  is,  whether  the  water  is  cooler  than  it  was  on  the  preced- 
ing evening.  One  of  the  modes  of  bathing  is  curious.  Wo  every  evening 
visited  a  family,  in  the  suburb  of  the  Guayquerias.  In  a  fine  moonlight 
night,  chturs  were  placed  in  the  water ;  the  men  and  women  were  lightly 
clothed,  as  in  some  baths  of  the  north  of  Europe  ;  and  the  family  and 
strangers,  assembled  in  the  river,  passed  some  hours  iti  smoking  cigars, 
and  in  talking,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  of  the  extreme 
dryness  of  the  season,  of  the  abimdant  rains  in  the  neighboring  districts, 
and  particularly  of  the  extravagances  of  which  the  ladies  of  Cumana 
accuse  those  of  the  Caracas  and  the  Havanna.  The  company  were 
under  no  apprehensions  from  the  bavas,  or  small  crocodiles,  which  are 
now  extremely  scarce,  and  which  approach  men  without  attacking  them." 
Humboldt  also  directed  his  attention  to  the  volcanic  soil  on  which  ho 
was  living,  and  collected  facts  in  relation  to  the  earthquakes  with  which 
Cumana  was  frequently  visited,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether  the  di- 
rection and  extent  of  the  shocks  was  not  regulated  by  some  yet  un- 
discovered law. 

On  the  19th  of  August,  the  travelers  embarked  in  a  boat,  on  an  ex-' 
cursion  to  the  peninsula  of  Araya,  and  those  districts  formerly  celebrated 
for  the  slave-trade  and  the  pearl-fishery.  They  had  now  been  two 
months  in  the  tropics,  and  found  the  nights  so  cold  as  to  prevent  them 
from  sleeping,  although  the  thermometer  did  not  fall  below  70°.  After 
visiting  the  castle  of  Araya,  they  were  benighted  on  their  way  to  an 
Indian  >nllage.  They  were  in  a  narrow  path,  with  the  sea  on  one  side, 
and  a  perpendicular  precipice  on  the  other ;  the  tide  was  rising  rapidly, 
but  they  insisted  on  stopping  to  observe  the  setting  of  Venus,  in  spite 
of  the  terror  of  their  guide.  After  wading  for  nearly  an  hour  through 
the  water,  they  finally  reached  a  hut  where  they  were  hospitably  enter- 
tained. 

In  the  Indian  village  they  found  a  Spanish  shoemaker,  who  practiced 
medicine  among  the  natives,  and  who,  after  delivering  a  long  discourse 
on  the  vanity  of  human  greatness,  presented  them  with  some  small 
pearls,  with  the  request  that  they  would  note  the  circumstance  on  their 
tablets.  The  next  excursion  made  by  Humboldt  and  Bonpland  was  to 
the  mission  in  the  mountains  inhabited  by  the  Chaymas  Indians,  a  dis- 
trict filled  with  a  wonderful  animal  and  vegetable  world,  and  a  people 
living  in  the  most  primitive  condition.  Here  they  first  beheld  the  splen- 
dors of  tropical  vegetation.  "Walking  fijr  hours  under  a  roof  of  foliage, 
through  which  the  sky  appeared  of  a  deep  indigo-blue,  they  saw  the 
hanging  nests  of  the  oriole,  and  heard  the  screaming  of  parrots  and 
macaws.    ''  When  a  traveler  first  penetrates  into  the  forests  of  South 


80 


LIFK  AND  TUAVEL8  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


fe 


America,"  nnyn  IltiiabuUlt,  "ho  bcliolJs  nature  undi-r  an  unexpected 
aspect.  He  feels  at  every  utep  tliat  lie  U  not  on  the  conlines,  but  in 
the  center  of  the  torrid  zone  ;  not  in  one  of  the  West  India  Islands, 
but  on  a  vast  continent  where  every  thing  is  gigantic — mountains, 
rivers,  and  the  mass  of  vegetation.  If  he  fuel  strongly  the  beauty  of 
picturesque  Hcenery  he  can  scarcely  define  the  various  emotions  which 
crowd  ujion  his  mind;  he  can  scarcely  distinguish  what  most  excites  his 
admiration — the  deep  silence  of  those  solitudes,  the  individual  beauty 
:uul  contrast  of  forms,  or  that  vigor  and  freshness  of  vegetable  life  which 
characterize  the  climate  of  the  tropics.  It  might  be  said  that  the  earth, 
overloaded  with  plants,  does  not  allow  tlicm  space  enough  to  unfold 
themselves.  The  tnuiks  of  the  trees  are  everywhere  concealed  under  a 
thick  carpet  of  verdure ;  and  if  we  carefully  transplanted  the  orchidea>, 
peppers,  and  the  pothoses,  nourished  by  a  single  American  fig-tree,  wo 
should  cover  a  vast  extent  of  ground.  l>y  this  singular  assemblage,  the 
forests,  as  Avell  as  the  flanks  of  the  rocks  and  mountains,  enlarge  tlie  do- 
mains of  organic  nature.  The  sanio  parasitic  vines  Mhich  creep  on  the 
ground,  reach  the  tops  of  the  trei's,  and  jiass  from  one  to  the  other  at 
the  height  of  more  than  a  hundred  feet."  The  travelers  were  kindly 
received  at  the  mission,  although  the  old  monk  smiled  sarcastically  on 
seeing  their  books  and  instruments,  and  observed  that  there  was  no  sat- 
isfaction in  life  equal  to  that  of  eating  good  beef  In  the  village  of 
•Arenas,  they  noticed  a  curious  i)hysioIogical  phenomenon,  in  the  person 
of  a  Spanisli  laborer,  named  Lozano,  who  had  suckled  a  child  with  his 
own  milk.  The  mother  having  fallen  sick,  the  father,  to  quiet  the  infant, 
took  it  into  his  bed,  and  pressed  it  to  his  bosom.  Lozano,  then  thirty- 
two  years  of  age,  had  never  before  remarked  that  he  had  milk  ;  but  the 
irritation  of  the  nipple,  sucked  by  the  child,  caused  the  accumulation  of 
that  liquid.  The  milk  was  thick  and  very  sweet.  The  father,  astonished 
at  the.  increased  size  of  liis  breast,  suckled  his  child  two  or  three  times  a 
day  during  five  months.  The  travelers  saw  the  certificate,  Avhich  had 
been  drawn  up  on  the  spot,  to  attest  this  remarkable  fact.  They  were 
assured  that,  during  this  suckling,  the  child  had  no  other  nourishment 
than  the  milk  of  his  father. 

Humboldt  and  liis  friend  continued  their  journey  to  the  ravine  of 
Cucliivano,  by  a  path  infested  with  jaguars.  From  the  caverns  in  this 
ravine  smoke  and  flames  are  sometimes  emitted.  The  inhabitants  of 
this  district  prophesied  an  increase  of  earthquakes  and  other  disturb- 
ances, from  the  .appearance  of  these  flames — prophecies  whicli  were 
fully  verified  in  the  course  of  a  few  years.  On  the  12th  of  Septem- 
ber, after  climbing  the  hills,  they  reached  the  principal  mission  of 
Caripe,  where  they  spent  sever.il  calm  and  beautiful  nights.  "  Nothing," 
s^ys  Humboldt,  "  can  be  compared  to  the  majestic  tranquillity  which 
the  aspect  of  the  firmament  presents  in  this  solitary  region.  When 
tracing  with  the  eye,  at  night-fall,  the  meadows^vhich  bounded  the  hor- 
izon, the  plain  covered  with  verdure  .md  gently  undulated,  we  thought 


1 


•  T. 

an  unoxpocteu 
Lonfiiu'S,  but  in 
,  IiuUa  Isliuuls 
lie — uiountaiiH, 

tho  beauty  of 
emotions  which 
most  excites  his 
ilividual  beauty 
utablc  Ufo  which 
I  that  the  earth, 
lOugh  to  unfolil 
ncoalcil  under  a 
d  tho  orchidea?, 
•ican  fig-tree,  wo 

assemblage,  the 
,  enlarge  the  do- 
lifh  creep  on  the 
c  to  tho  other  at 
■lers  were  kindly 
1  sarcastically  on 
there  was  no  sat- 
in tho  village  of 
ion,  in  the  person 
I  a  child  with  liis 
juict  the  infant, 


TllK    OUACHARO     CAVEUN. 


81 


zano,  then  thirty- 
ud  milk  ;  but  tho 
)  accumulation  of 
father,  astonished 
a  or  three  times  a 
.ficatc,  which  had 
fact.  They  were 
ther  nourishment 

y  to  tho  ravine  of 
10  caverns  in  this 
'ho  inhabitants  of 
nd  other  disturb- 
ccies  which  wore 

12th  of  Septem- 
ncipal  mission  of 
ghts.  "Nothing," 
tranquillity  which 
•y  region.    When 

bounded  the  hor- 
lated,  we  thought 


we  Iteheld  fioni  nfur,  as  in  the  deserts  of  tho  Orinoco,  tlie  surface  of  the 
ocean  supptirting  the  starry  vault  of  heaven.  The  tree  under  which  wo 
were  seated,  the  luminous  insects  ilyiiig  in  the  air,  the  constellations 
which  shone  in  the  south ;  every  object  seemed  to  tell  us  how  fur  wc 
were  from  our  native  land.  If  amid  this  exotic  nature  we  heard  from 
tho  depth  of  tho  valley  the  thikling  of  a  boll,  or  tho  lowing  of  herds,  tho 
remembrance  of  our  country  was  awakened  su'ldenly.  Tiie  sounds  were 
like  distant  voices  resounding  from  beyond  the  ocean,  and  with  magical 
power  transporting  us  from  one  hemisphere  to  tho  other.  Strange 
mobility  of  tho  imagination  of  man,  eternal  source  of  our  enjoyments 
and  our  pains!"  In  tho  valley  of  Caripc,  the  travelers  visited  the 
celebrated  Guacharo  Cavern,  which  had  never  been  heard  of  in  Europe. 
The  entrance  is  on  arch  eighty  feet  wide  and  seventy-two  feet  high,  out 
of  which  flows  a  small  stream.  The  palms  and  arums  on  its  banks  were 
found  glowing  a  hundred  feet  within  the  cavo.  When  tho  light  began 
to  fail,  they  heard  tho  hoarse  cries  of  the  ffttacharo,  a  nocturnal  bird, 
which  they  found  to  belong  to  ft  genus  previously  unknown.  Tho  plum- 
age is  of  a  dark  bluish-gray,  spotted  with  black,  and  tho  wings,  when 
spread,  measure  three  feet  and  a  half.  Their  food  consists  of  nuts  ond 
hard  fruits,  which  they  procure  by  night,  retiring  into  tho  cavo  on  tho 
approach  of  day.  "  It  would  bo  difficult  to  form  an  idea  of  the  horrible 
noise  occasioned  by  thousands  of  these  birds  in  the  dark  part  of  the  cav- 
oni.  Their  shrill  and  piercing  cries  strike  upon  tho  vaults  of  the  rooks, 
and  are  repented  by  the  subterranean  echoes.  Tho  Indians  showed  us 
the  nests  of  tho  guacharos  by  fixing  a  torch  to  tho  end  of  a  long  polo. 
The  nests  were  fifty  or  sixty  feet  above  our  heads,  in  holes  in  the  shape 
of  funnels,  with  which  tho  roof  of  the  grotto  is  pierced  like  a  sieve.  The 
noise  increased  as  we  advanced,  and  as  the  birds  were  scared  by  the 
light  of  tho  torches  of  copal.  When'  this  noiso  ceased  a  few  minutes 
around  us,  we  heard  at  a  distance  the  plaintive  cries  of  tho  birds  roost- 
ing in  other  ramifications  of  tho  cavern." 

They  only  succeeded  in  penetrating  to  tho  distance  of  fifteen  hundred 
feet,  as  tho  Indians,  who  were  timid  and  superstitious,  refused  to  pro- 
ceed further.  Humboldt  estimates  the  entire  length  of  the  cavern  at 
two  thousand  eight  hundred  feet,  or  a.  little  more  than  half  a  mile.  On 
tho  22d  of  September,  having  collected  their  specimens,  they  set  out  on 
their  ret<"Ti,  crossing  the  mountain  of  Santa  Maria,  by  a  dangerous  path 
along  th(  edges  of  precipices  and  through  dense  forests,  where  they 
obs(!rved  many  varieties  of  monkeys.  Humboldt  remarked  that  these 
animals  seem  tho  more  depressed  and  melancholy  the  nearer  they  re- 
semble man — that  in  proportion  to  the  increase  of  their  apparent  reason- 
ing faculties,  tlieir  impetuous  sprightliness  diminishes.  Tlie  travelers 
finally  arrived  at  tho  port  of  Cariaco,  where  a  contagious  fever  had 
broken  out,  and  they,  therefore,  embarked  speedily  for  Cumana,  twelve 
leagues  distant.  While  studying  the  character  of  the  Chaymas,  and 
other  Indian  tribes,  on  this  journey,  Humboldt  noticed  their  habit  of  as- 


i 


82 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


senting  to  whatever  is  said  to  them — a  habit  which  taught  him  to  be 
cautious,  thenceforth,  in  accepting  statements  made  by  the  natives.  To 
put  an  Indian  alcalde  to  the  proo^  he  asked  him  one  day,  whether  he 
did  not  think  the  little  river  of  Caripe,  which  issues  from  the  cavern  of 
the  Guacharo,  returned  into  it  on  the  opposite  side  by  some  unknown 
entrance,  after  having  ascended  the  slope  of  the  mount^n.  The  Indian 
seemed  gravely  to  reflect  on  the  subject,  and  then  answered,  by  way  of 
supporting  Humboldt's  hypothesis :  "  How  else,  if  it  were  not  so,  would 
there  always  be  water  in  the  bed  of  the  river  at  the  mouth  of  the 
cavern  ?'♦ 

The  travelers  decided  to  remain  another  month  at  Cumana,  to  pre- 
pare for  their  intended  journey  to  the  Orinoco  and  the  Rio  Negro,  and 
to  observe  an  eclipse  of  the  sun,  on  the  27th  of  October.  On  the  even- 
ing preceding  that  day,  however,  they  met  with  an  adventure  which 
came  near  terminating  their  travels.  They  were  strolling  along  the 
beach  in  the  evening,  when  Humboldt,  hearing  some  one  walking  be- 
hind him,  turned  and  saw  a  tall  Zambo  (mongrel  negro  and  Indian), 
who  held  over  his  head  a  great  club  of  palm-tree  wood.  .  He  thus  de- 
scribes what  followed:  "I  avoided  the  stroke  by  leaping  toward  the 
left ;  but  M.  Bonpland,  who  walked  on  my  right,  was  less  fortunate.  He 
did  not  see  the  Zambo  so  soon  as  I  did,  and  received  a  stroke  above 
the  temple,  which  leveled  him  with  the  ground.  We  were  alone,  with- 
out arms,  half  a  league  from  any  habitation,  on  a  vast  plain  bounded  by 
the  sea.  The  Zambo,  instead  of  attacking  me,  moved  off  slowly  to  pick 
up  M.  Bonj^and's  hat,  which,  having  somewhat  deadened  the  violence 
of  the  blow,  had  fallen  off  and  lay  at  some  distance.  Alarmed  at  seeing 
my  companion  on  the  ground,  and  for  some  moments  senseless,  I  thought 
of  him  only.  I  helped  him  to  raise  himself  and  pain  and  anger  doubled 
his  strength.  We  ran  toward  the  Zambo,  who,  either  from  cowardice^ 
common  enough  in  people  of  this  caste,  or  because  he  perceived  at  a  dis- 
tance some  men  on  the  beach,  did  not  wait  for  us,  but  ran  off  in  the  direc- 
tion of  a  little  thicket  of  cactus.  He  chanced  to  &11  in  running ;  and  M. 
Bonpland,  who  reached  him  first,  seized  him  round  the  body.  The 
Zambo  drew  a  long  knife ;  and  in  this  unequal  struggle  we  should  in- 
fallibly have  been  wounded,  if  some  Biscayan  merchants  had  not  come 
to  our  assistance.  The  Zambo  again  ran  away  and  we  pursued  him 
through  the  thorny  cactuses.  At  length,  tired  out,  he  took  shelter  in  a 
cow-house,  whence  he  suffered  himself  to  be  quietly  led  to  prison.  M. 
Bonpland  was  seized  with  fever  during  the  night ;  but  endowed  with 
great  energy  and  fortitude,  he  continued  his  labors  the  next  day.  The 
stroke  of  the  club  had  extended  to  the  top  of  his  head,  and  he  felt  its 
effect  for  the  space  of  two  or  three  months  during  the  stay  we  made  at 
*  Caracas." 

After  having  observed  the  eclipse,  Humboldt's  attention  was  directed 
to  a  reddish  mist,  which  covered  the  sky  for  some  minutes  every  even- 
ing.   Other  remarkable  phenomena  soon  followed :  the  mist  grew  denser, 


m 
mc 


trip 

rain;^ 

totl 

racts 

maini 

are; 

and 

five 

inbol 

the 

tweed 

threal 

daunil 

everj 

valual 

severs 

acas 

experl 

"Wei 


"^ 


EARTHQUAKE— JOURNEY    TO   THE    ORINOCO. 


83 


ught  him  to  be 
,he  natives.  To 
day,  whether  he 
[Q  the  cavern  of 
some  unknown 
un.  The  Indian 
ered,  by  way  of 
sre  not  so,  would 
,e  mouth  of  the 

Cumana,  to  pre- 
)  Rio  Negro,  and 
r.    On  the  even- 
adventure  which 
rolUng  along  the 
,  one  walkmg  be- 
;gro  and  Indian), 
jod.    He  thus  de- 
Biping  toward  the 
less  fortunate.  He 
ed  a  stroke  above 
I  -were  alone,  with- 
pHn  bounded  by 
I  off  slowly  to  pick 
ened  the  violence 
Alarmed  at  seeing 
enseless,  I  thought 
and  anger  doubled 
er  from  cowardice, 
I  perceived  at  a  ^»- 
ranoffinthedireo- 

a  running ;  and  M. 
d  the  body.  The 
ggle  we  should  in- 
ants  had  not  come 
d  we  pursued  him 
he  took  shelter  in  a 

led  to  prison.    M. 

)ut  endowed  with 
the  next  day.  The 
ead,  and  he  felt  its 
he  stay  we  made  at 

tention  was  cUrected 
minutes  every  even- 
le  mist  grew  denser. 


the  hot  night  air  was  inodorous,  the  sea-breezes  failed  to  blow,  and  the 
sky  was  colored  like  fire.  On  the  4th  of  November,  in  the  afternoon, 
two  violent  shocks  of  an  earthquake  occurred.  The  travelers  were 
greatly  impressed  by  this  new  experience,  but  immediately  arranged 
tiieir  electrical  apparatus,  and  commenced  their  experiments.  Hum- 
boldt's remarks  upon  the  sensations  produced  by  an  earthquake  are 
strikingly  true,  as  every  person  who  has  felt  the  shock  of  one  can  testify. 
He  says :  '*  From  our  infancy,  the  idea  of  certain  contrasts  becomes  fixed 
in  our  minds:  water  appears  to  us  an  element  that  moves;  earth,  a 
motionless  and  inert  mass.  Tliese  impressions  are  the  result  of  daily 
experience ;  they  are  connected  ■with  every  thing  that  is  transmitted  to 
us  by  the  senses.  When  the  shock  of  an  earthquake  is  felt,  when  the 
earth  which  wc  had  deemed  so  stable  is  shaken  on  its  old  foundations, 
one  instant  suffices  to  destroy  long-fixed  illusions.  It  is  like  awakening 
from  a  dream ;  but  a  painful  awakening.  We  feel  that  we  have  been 
deceived  by  the  apparent  stability  of  nature ;  we  become  observant  of 
the  least  noise ;  we  mistrust  for  the  first  time  the  soil  we  have  so  long 
trod  with  confidence.  But  if  the  shocks  be  repeated,  if  they  become 
frequent  during  several  successive  days,  the  uncertainty  quickly  disap- 
pears. Confidence  easily  springs  up  in  the  human  breast :  on  the  coasts 
of  Pern  we  become  accustomed  to  the  undulations  of  the  ground,  as  the 
sailor  becomes  accustomed  to  the  tossing  of  the  ship,  caused  by  the 
motion  of  the  waves." 

TRAVELS   ON   THE    ORINOCO. 

On  the  1 8th  of  November,  the  travelers  left  Cumana  on  a  coasting 
trip  to  Laguayra,  intending  to  remain  in  Caracas  until  the  end  of  the 
runy  season.  They  then  proposed  crossing  the  great  plains,  or  llanoa, 
to  the  missions  of  the  Orinoco ;  to  ascend  that  river,  south  of  its  cata- 
racts, and  ascertwi  its  reported  connection  with  the  Rio  Negro— the 
main  northern  tributary  of  the  Amazon — ^by  means  of  the  Rio  Cassiqui- 
arc ;  and  afterward  to  descend  the  Orinoco  to  the  town  of  Angostura, 
and  recross  the  plains  to  Cumana.  This  was  a  journey  of  nearly  twenty- 
five  hundred  nules,  two  thirds  of  which  they  would  be  obliged  to  make 
in  boats,  through  a  country  almost  entirely  unknown.  The  monks  were 
the  real  masters  of  the  Orinoco  country,  and  no  intercourse  existed  be- 
tween their  mianons  and  the  cities  on  the  coast.  The  colonists  painted  in 
threatening  colors  the  dangers  they  would  encounter,  but  nothing  could 
daunt  the  zeal  and  intrepidity  of  Humboldt  and  Bonpland.  They  received 
every  assistance  from  Sefior  Emparan,  the  governor,  and  derived  much 
valuable  information  firom  Fray  Juan  Gonzalez,  a  monk  wiio  had  spent 
several  years  at  Esmeralda,  on  the  upper  Orinoco.  On  departing  for  Car- 
acas th^y  first  realized  how  powerftil  an  influence  their  first  four  months' 
experience  of  tropical  life  and  scenery  had  produced  upon  their  minds. 
"  We  quitted  the  shore  of  Cumana,"  says  Humboldt,  "  as  if  it  had  long 

3 


r 


84 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OP  HUMBOLDT. 


been  our  homo.  Tliis  was  the  firat  land  we  had  trodden  in  a  zone  toward 
which  my  thoughts  had  been  directed  from  earliest  youth.  There  is  a 
powerful  charm  in  the  impression  produced  by  the  scenery  and  climate 
of  these  regions ;  and  after  an  abode  of  a  few  months  we  seemed  to  have 
lived  there  during  a  long  succession  of  years.  In  proportion  as  impres- 
sions are  powerful  and  new,  they  weaken  antecedent  impressions,  and 
their  force  imparts  to  them  the  character  of  duration.  I  appeal  to  those 
who,  more  sensible  to  the  beauties  of  nature  than  to  the  charms  of  soci- 
ety, have  long  resided  in  the  torrid  zone.  How  dear,  how  memorable 
during  life,  is  the  land  on  which  they  first  disembarked  I  A  vague  desire 
to  revisit  that  spot  remains  rooted  in  their  minds  to  the  most  advanced 
age.  Cumana,  and  its  dusty  soil,  are  still  more  frequently  present  to  my 
imagination  than  all  the  wonders  of  the  Cordilleras.  Beneath  the  bright 
sky  of  the  south,  the  light,  and  the  magic  of  the  aerial  hues,  embellish  a 
land  most  destitute  of  vegetation.  The  sun  does  not  merely  enlighten, 
it  colors  the  objects,  and  wraps  them  in  a  thin  vapor,  which,  without 
changing  the  transparency  of  the  air,  renders  its  tints  more  harmonious, 
softens  the  effects  of  the  light,  and  diffuses  over  nature  a  placid  calm, 
which  is  reflected  in  our  souls." 

Reaching  Laguayra  on  the  2l8t,  Humboldt  found  the  yellow  fever 
raging  violently,  and  without  halting  in  the  town,  ascended  to  Ca- 
racas, by  the  mountain  road,  which  he  compares  to  the  passage  of  the 
St.  Gothard,  in  Switzerland.  In  the  latter  city,  at  an  elevation  of  2,500 
feet  above  the  sea,  he  found  a  climate  of  perpetual  spring.  He  took  a 
house  in  a  quarter  of  the  city,  which,  during  the  great  earthquake  of 
1812,  was  as  completely  destroyed  as  if  a  rauie  had  been  sprung  beneath. 
Here  the  travelers  remained  two  months,  charmed  with  the  society  of 
the  place,  although  the  weather  was  unfavorable  for  their  astronomical 
observations.  The  nights  were  generally  cloudy,  and  Humboldt  resorted 
to  the  theatre,  where,  as  there  was  no  roof  over  the  pit,  he  could  watch, 
as  he  sat  in  his  box,  for  the  appearance  of  Jupiter.  The  only  excursion 
made  during  this  residence  was  to  the  summit  of  the  Silla  {saddk)  of 
Caracas,  which  none  of  the  inhabitants'  had  ever  ascended.  Sixteen 
persons  offered  to  accompany  the  expedition,  for  the  sake  of  novelty, 
and  the  party  started  on  the  22d  of  January,  1800,  on  a  day  when,  on 
account  of  the  low  clouds,  they  could  calculate  on  a  clear  atmosphere. 
Leaving  the  foot  of  the  Silla  in  tha  morning,  they  found  the  path  very 
steep  and  fiitiguing.  The  ground  was  covered  with  short  grass,  which 
afforded  no  firm  footing,  while  thin  vapors  arose  from  the  forest,  and 
announced  an  approaching  mist.  Humboldt's  companions  lost  courage 
and  showed  some  signs  of  beating  a  retreat,  and  the  garrulity  of  the 
accompanying  negroes  contrasted  strongly  vfith  the  taciturnity  of 
^the  Indians,  who  had  been  his  guides  among  the  Chaymas  moimtains. 
They  mocked  the  discouraged  guides,  and  made  themselves  especially 
merry  at  a  young  Capuchin  friar,  who  was,  at  the  same  time,  professor 
of  mathematics.  When  the  company  started,  he  imaguicd  that  he  would 


m 


DT. 

in  a  zone  toward 
uth.  There  is  a 
nery  and  climate 
e  seemed  to  have 
ortion  as  impres- 
impressionf?,  and 
I  appeal  to  those 
le  charms  of  soci- 
,  how  memorable 
!  A  vague  desire 
lie  most  advanced 
tly  present  to  my 
ieneath  the  bright 
I  hues,  embellish  a 
merely  enlighten, 
ar,  which,  without 
more  harmonious, 
lire  a  placid  calm, 

1  the  yellow  fever 
,  ascended  to  Ca- 
he  passage  of  the 
I  elevation  of  2,500 
spring.    He  took  a 
reat  earthquake  of 
en  sprung  beneath. 
v'lth  the  society  of 
■  their  astronomical 
Humboldt  resorted 
)it,  ho  could  watch, 
The  only  excursion 
he  Silla  (saoTdfe)  of 
iscended.     Sixteen 
he  sake  of  novelty, 
,  on  a  day  when,  on 
a  clear  atmosphere, 
found  the  path  very 
1  short  grass,  which 
pom  the  forest,  and 
anions  lost  courage 
le  garrulity  of  the 
the   taciturnity  of 
Jhaymas  mounttuns. 
lemselves  especially 
lame  time,  professor 
incd  that  he  would 


ASCENT   OF   THE    SILLA    DE   CARACAS. 


85 


snrpass  all  the  rest  in  boldness  and  endurance ;  he  had  even  taken  bits 
of  wiiite  paper  with  him,  that  he,  as  the  foremost  of  the  climbers,  might 
throw  them  down  to  show  the  way  to  the  others.  He  had  also  promised 
the  monks  of  his  order  to  fire  some  rockets  from  the  top  of  the  mount- 
ain, in  order  to  announce  his  success  to  the  inhabitants  of  Caracas. 
But  this  boaster,  encumbered  in  the  ascent  by  his  long  gown,  soon  lost 
both  his  strength  and  courage,  and  stopped  at  a  plantation,  whence  he 
watched  Humboldt  and  the  others  through  a  telescope.  The  party 
moved  on  toward  the  eastern  part  of  the  Silla,  which  terminates  in  two 
rounded  peaks.  Their  journey  now  became  very  difficult  on  account  of 
the  fog,  and  the  necessity  of  using  both  hands  and  feet  in  climbing  the 
steep  and  slippery  ascent.  At  the  height  of  five  thousand  five  hundred 
feet,  they  were  surprised  by  the  sight  of  a  palm  forest,  within  which 
Humboldt  found  a  greater  variety  of  plants  in  a  small  space,  than  in  any 
other  part  of  the  world.  After  further  climbing,  during  which  the  mer- 
cury sank  to  51°,. and  they  suffered  from  the  cold,  they  reached  the  hol- 
low between  the  two  peaks,  called  the  "  Saddle."  The  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion here  made  it  extremely  difficult  to  find  a  path,  which  had  to  be 
hewn  with  knives  and  axes.  A  dense  mist  clung  around  them,  and  at 
every  step  the  danger  was  incurred  of  coming  suddenly  upon  the  brink 
of  the  tremendous  precipice,  and  fiiUing  six  thousand  feet  into  the  sea. 
They  made  a  halt,  to  await  the  arrival  of  some  negroes  with  provi- 
sions, but  the  meal  was  very  sparing,  as  they  had  only  olives  and  a  little 
bread.  Even  the  guides  had  lost  all  courage,  and  were  with  great  diffi- 
culty prevented  from  returning.  It  was  now  two  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, and  Humboldt  determined  to  reach  the  summit  of  the  eastern 
peak  before  sunset,  and  pass  the  night  in  the  hollow  below.  The  ne- 
groes were  sent  back,  with  orders  to  meet  him  on  the  following  day, 
with  more  satisfactory  provender  than  olives.  Scarcely  had  these  pre- 
parations been  made,  when  the  east  wind  arose,  dispersing  the  clouds 
in  less  than  two  minutes.  The  two  peaks  of  the  Silla,  covered  only  with 
grass  and  low  bushes,  seemed  astonishingly  near.  In  order  to  reach 
the  highest  peak,  they  were  obliged  to  approach  the  steep  precipice 
hanging  over  the  sea,  but  the  obstacles  from  vegetation  decreased  as 
they  ascended.  In  three  quarters  of  an  hour  they  stood  upon  the  eastern 
summit,  eight  thousand  six  hundred  and  thirty-two  feet  above  the  sea, 
which  expanded  before  their  eyes  with  a  radius  of  a  hundred  miles. 
The  western  peak  hid  from  their  view  the  city  of  Caracas,  but  the  vast 
extent  of  tropical  forests,  villages,  coffee  plantations,  and  the  silver 
windings  of  the  Guayra  River,  filled  them  with  rapture.  It  has  been 
stated  that  in  looking  from  the  Silla  over  the  Carribean  Sea,  Humboldt 
observed  that  rare  and  remarkable  sight,  the  visible  convexity  of  the 
earth,  but  this  circumstance  is  not  mentioned  in  his  "  Personal  Nar- 
rative," where  ho  thus  describes  the  view :  "  Following  with  the  eye  the 
surface  of  the  sea,  which  was  smooth  as  glass,  we  were  struck  with  the 
progressive  diminution  of  the  reflected  light.     Where  the  visual  ray 


36 


LIFK   AND   TBAVBLS   OF    HUMBOLDT. 


touched  tho  lost  limit  of  that  aorface,  the  water  was  lost  among  the 
superposed  strata  of  air.  This  appearance  has  something  ui  it  very 
extraordinary.  We  expect  to  see  the  horizon  level  with  the  eye ;  but, 
instead  of  distinguishing  at  this  height  a  marked  limit  between  tho  two 
elements,  the  more  distant  strata  of  water  seem  to  be  transformed  in'.o 
vapor,  and  mingled  with  the  atrial  ocean.  I  observed  the  same  appear- 
ance, not  in  one  spot  of  the  horizon  alone,  but  on  an  extent  of  more  than 
a  hundred  and  sixty  degrees,  along  the  Pacific,  when  I  found  myself  for 
the  first  time  on  the  pointed  rock  that  commands  the  crater  of  Hchin- 
cha;  a  volcano,  the  elevation  of  which  exceeds  that  of  Mont  Blanc."  At 
half  past  four  o'clock,  having  finished  their  scientific  observations,  the 
travelers  descended  to  the  palm  forest.  They  were  botanizing  when  the 
night  overtook  them;  the  guides  who  carried  the  instruments  went 
away,  one  by  one,  to  seek  a  sleeping  place  among  tho  rooks,  and  it  was 
not  until  nearly  midnight  that  Humboldt  and  Bonpland,  overcome  with 
hunger  and  £itigne,  reached  tho  lower  valley.  After  a  descent  of  six 
hours,  they  agsuu  arrived  at  the  plantation  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain. 
The  inhabitants  of  Caracas  had  witnessed  their  success  through  telescopes. 
On  the  Vth  of  Febraary,  they  commenced  their  journey  into  tho 
interior.  Instead  of  proceeding  directly  across  the  steppes,  or  llanos,  to 
the  Orinoco  River,  they  selected  a  longer  route  by  way  of  the  valley  of 
Aragoa,  and  the  hot  springs  of  Mariara,  to  the  Lake  of  Valencia;  thence 
across  the  llanos  to  San  Fernando,  on  the  Apure  River,  and  down  that 
river  to  the  Orinoco.  On  their  way  to  the  Lake  of  Valencia,  they 
visited  a  tree  called  zamanff,  a  variety  of  the  mimosa,  the  boughs  of 
which  formed  a  hemisphere  five  hundred  and  seventy-six  feet  in  circum- 
ference, and  so  regular  that  on  measuring  several  diameters,  Humboldt 
found  them  to  vary  only  from  one  hundred  and  eighty-six  to  one  hundred 
and  ninety-two  feet.  He  considered  this  tree  as  old  as  the  dragon-tree 
of  Teneriffe.  It  is  held  in  such  high  regard  that  a  man,  who  cut  off  a 
branch,  was  tried  and  condemned  for  the  act.  In  tho  colonies  of  Cura, 
the  travelers  passed  several  days  after  the  manner  of  the  natives^  taking 
two  baths,  three  meals,  and  three  sleeps  every  twenty-four  hours.  After 
visiting  the  hot  springs  of  Mariara,  they  journeyed  six  days  to  the  town 
of  New  Valencia,  traveling  only  by  night,  on  account  of  the  great  heat. 
At  the  hot  ^rings  of  Trinchera,  they  were  surprised  to  find  arums  and 
fig-trees  growing  in  water  which  had  a  temperature  of  176°.  From 
Valencia  they  descended  to  Porto  Cabello,  on  the  coast,  where  they 
remained  until  the  1st  of  March,  and  then  commenced  their  journey  to 
the  plains  of  the  Orinoco.  In  the  valley  of  Aragua,  Humboldt  first  saw 
the  celebrated  "  cow-tree,"  the  existence  of  which  be  had  previously 
doubted,  and  of  which  he  gives  the  following  beautiftil  description : 
**  When  incisions  are  made  in  the  trunk  of  this  tree,  it  yielis  abundance 
of  a  glutinous  milk,  tolerably  thick,  devoid  of  all  acridity,  and  of  an 
agreeable  and  balmy  smell.  It  was  offered  to  us  in  the  shell  of  a  oala- 
bash.    We  drank  considerable  quantities  of  it  in  the  evening  before  we 


i< 


servei 
made 
What 
merel; 
anoth( 
the  hu 
that  nt 
is  appr 
matter 
ancient 
I    ofveg{ 
'    the  pro 
receive 
raent  ci 
solemn 
wrappei 
table  ju 
nature, 
dry  lea^ 
For  sev 
Its  bran 
flows  fr< 
that  this 
\    are  then 
receive  f 
empty  tl 
their  chi 
In  cr 
llanos,  th 
lodged  w 
charactei 
recited  tl 
names  of 
agreeable 
employee 
emperors 
the  gout. 


t  among  the 
5  ill  it  very 
,he  eye ;  but, 
jireen  the  two 
sformcd  in'o 
same  appear- 
,  of  more  than 
nd  myself  for 
ler  of  Pichin- 
it  Blanc."  At 
jervotions,  the 
ang  when  the 
ruments  went 
jks,  and  it  was 
overcome  with 
descent  of  six 
rthe  mountjun. 
,ugh  telescopes, 
umey  into  the 
68,  or  llanos,  to 
)f  the  valley  of 
^alencia;  thence 
and  down  that 
Valencia,  they 
the  boughs  of 
feet  in  circum- 
iters,  Humboldt 
:  to  one  hundred 
the  dragon-tree 
,  who  cut  off  a 
foloniesofCura, 
natives;  taking 
|ur  hours.  After 
lays  to  the  town 
the  great  heat, 
find  arums  and 
of  175°.   From 
•ast,  where  they 
their  journey  to 
aboldt  first  saw 
had  previously 
[M  description: 
ields  abundance 
idity,  and  of  an 
5  shell  of  a  oala- 
snmg  before  we 


DBSORIPTION    OP   THE    COW-TRBB. 


87 


went  to  bed,  and  very  early  in  the  morning,  without  feeling  the  least 
injurious  effect.  The  glutinous  character  of  this  milk  alone  renders  it  a 
little  disagreeable.  The  negroes  and  the  free  people  who  work  in  the 
plantations  drink  it,  dipping  into  it  their  bread  of  maize  or  cassava.  Tlio 
overseer  of  the  &rm  told  us  that  the  negroes  grow  sensibly  fatter 
during  the  season  when  the  pcUo  de  vaca  furnishes  thorn  with  most  milk. 
This  juice,  exposed  to  the  air,  presents  at  its  surface  membrdncs  of  a 
strongly  animalizcd  substance,  yellowish,  stringy,  and  resombling  cheese. 

"  Amidst  the  great  number  of  curious  phenomena  which  I  have  ob- 
served in  the  course  of  my  travels,  I  confess  there  are  few  that  have 
made  so  powerful  an  impression  on  me  as  the  aspect  of  the  cow-tree. 
Whatever  relates  to  milk  or  to  com,  inspires  an  interest  which  is  not 
merely  that  of  the  physical  knowledge  of  things,  but  is  connected  with 
another  order  of  ideas  and  sentiments.  We  can  scarcely  conceive  how 
the  human  race  could  exist  without  fiirinaceous  substances,  and  without 
that  nourishing  juice  which  the  breast  of  the  mother  contains,  and  which 
is  appropriated  to  the  long  feebleness  of  the  infant.  The  amylaceous 
matter  of  com,  the  object  of  religious  veneration  among  so  many  nations, 
ancient  and  modem,  is  diffused  in  the  seeds,  and  deposited  in  the  roots 
of  vegetables ;  milk,  which  serves  as  an  aliment,  appears  to  us  exclusively 
the  produce  of  animal  organization.  Such  are  the  impressions  we  have 
received  in  our  earliest  infancy :  such  is  also  the  source  of  that  astonish- 
ment created  by  the  aspect  of  the  tree  just  described.  It  is  not  here  the 
solemn  shades  of  forests,  the  majestic  course  of  rivers,  the  mountains 
wrapped  in  eternal  snow,  that  excite  our  emotion.  A  few  drops  of  vege- 
table juice  recall  to  our  n ..".ids  all  the  powerfulness  and  the  fecundity  of 
nature.  On  the  barren  flank  of  a  rock  grows  a  tree  with  coriaceous  and 
dry  leaves.  Its  large  woody  roots  can  scarcely  penetrate  into  the  stone. 
For  several  months  of  the  year  not  a  single  shower  moistens  its  foliage. 
Its  branches  appear  dead  and  dried ;  but  when  the  trunk  is  pierced  there 
flows  from  it  a  sweet  and  nourishing  milk.  It  is  at  the  rising  of  the  sun 
that  this  vegetable  fountain  is  most  abundant.  The  negroes  and  natives 
are  then  seen  hastening  fi*om  all  quarters,  furnished  with  large  bowls  to 
receive  the  milk,  which  grows  yellow,  and  thickens  at  its  surface.  Some 
empty  their  bowls  under  the  tree  itaelfj  others  carry  the  juice  homo  to 
their  cluldren." 

In  crossing  the  mountain-range  between  the  valley  of  Aragua  and  the 
llanos,  the  travelers  passed  a  night  in  the  village  of  Guigue,  where  they 
lodged  with  an  old  sergeant,  a  native  of  Murcia,  a  man  of  a  very  original 
character.  To  prove  to  them  that  he  had  studied  among  the  Jesuits,  he 
recited  the  history  of  the  creation  of  the  world  in  Latin.  He  Vnew  the 
names  of  Augustus,  Tiberias,  and  Diocletian ;  and  while  enjoying  the 
agreeable  coolness  of  the  nights  in  an  enclosure  planted  with  bananas,  he 
employed  himself  in  reading  all  that  related  to  the  courts  of  the  Roman 
emperors.  He  inquired  of  Humboldt  with  earnestness  for  a  remedy  for 
the  gout,  fi'ora  which  he  suffered  severely.     "  I  know,"  said  he,  "  a  Zam- 


m 

Si  J 


88 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  nUMBOLDT. 


bo  of  Valencia,  who  could  euro  mo ;  but  the  Zambo  would  expect  to  bo 
treated  with  attentions  which  I  can  not  pay  to  a  man  of  his  color,  and  I 
prefer  remaining  as  I  am."  On  the  9th  of  March  they  commenced  their 
journey  on  the  groat  plains.  "  The  sun  was  almost  at  its  zenith ;  tho 
earth,  wherever  it  appeared  sterile  and  destitute  of  vegetation,  was  at 
the  temperature  of  120°.  Not  a  breath  of  air  was  felt  at  the  height  at 
which  we  were  on  our  mules ;  yet,  in  tho  midst  of  this  apparent  calm, 
whirls  of  dust  incessantly  arose,  driven  on  by  those  small  currents  of  air 
which  glide  only  over  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  are  occasioned  by 
the  difference  of  temperature  between  the  naked  sand  and  the  spots  cov- 
ered with  grass.  All  around  us  the  plains  seemed  to  ascend  to  the  sky, 
and  the  vast  and  profound  solitude  appeared  like  an  ocean  covered  with 
sea-weed.  On  the  horizon  the  earth  was  confounded  with  the  sky. 
Through  the  dry  mist  and  strata  of  vapor  the  trunks  of  palm-trees  were 
seen  from  afar,  stripped  of  their  foliage  and  their  verdant  summits,  and 
looking  like  the  masts  of  a  ship  descried  upon  the  horizon.  There  is 
something  awful,  as  well  as  sad  and  gloomy,  in  the  uniform  aspect  of 
these  steppes.  Every  thing  seems  motionless;  scarcely  does  a  small 
cloud,  passing  across  the  zenith,  and  denoting  the  approach  of  tho  rainy 
season,  cast  its  shadow  on  the  earth.  I  know  not  whether  the  first  as- 
pect of  tho  llanos  excites  less  astonishment  than  that  of  the  chain  of  the 
Andes. 

"  When,  beneath  the  vertical  rays  of  tho  bright  and  cloudless  sun  of 
the  tropics,  the  parched  sward  crumbles  into  dust,  then  the  indurated 
soil  cracks  and  bursts  as  if  rent  asunder  by  some  mighty  earthquake. 
And  if^  at  such  a  time,  two  opposite  currents  of  air,  by  conflict  moving 
in  rapid  gyrations,  come  in  contact  with  the  earth,  a  singular  spectacle 
presents  itself.  Like  funnel-shaped  clouds,  their  apexes  touching  the 
earth,  tho  sands  rise  in  vapory  form  through  ♦'•o  rarefied  air  in  the  elec- 
trically-clidrged  center  of  the  whirling  current,  sweeping  on  like  the 
rushing  water-spout,  which  strikes  such  terror  into  the  heart  of  the  mar- 
iner. A  dun  and  sallow  light  gleams  from  the  lowering  sky  over  the 
dreary  plain.  The  horizon  suddenly  contracts,  and  tho  heart  of  the 
traveler  sinks  with  dismay  as  tho  wide  steppe  seems  to  close  upon  him 
on  all  sides.  The  hot  and  dusty  earth  forma  a  cloudy  vail  which  shrouds 
the  heavens  from  view,  and  increases  the  stifling  oppression  of  the  atmos- 
phere, while  the  east  wind,  when  it  blows  over  the  long-heated  soil, 
instead  of  cooling,  adds  to  the  burning  glow.  Gradually,  too,  the  pools 
of  water,  which  had  been  protected  from  evaporation  by  the  now  seared 
foliage  of  the  fan-palm,  disappear.  As  in  the  icy  noith  animals  become 
torpid  from  cold,  so  hero  the  crocodile  and  the  boa-constrictor  lie  wrapt 
in  unbroken  sleep,  deeply  buried  in  the  dried  soil.  Every  Avhere  the 
drought  announces  death,  yet  every  where  the  thirsting  wanderer  is 
deluded  by  the  phantom  of  a  moving,  undula^ng,  watery  surface,  cre- 
ated by  the  deceptive  play  of  the  mirage.  A  narrow  stratum  separates 
the  ground  from  tho  distant  palm-trees,  which  seem  to  hover  aloft,  owing 


— -di 


il  expect  to  bo 
lis  color,  and  I 
mmenced  their 
its  zenith;  tho 
etation,  was  at 
t  the  height  at 
apparent  calm, 
currents  of  Jur 
)  occasioned  by 
d  the  spots  cov- 
jend  to  the  sky, 
an  covered  with 
I  with  the  sky. 
palii-trees  were 
nt  summits,  and 
rizon.    There  ifl 
liform  aspect  of 
ely  does  a  small 
>ach  of  the  rainy 
sther  the  first  as- 
fthochsunofthe 

1  cloudless  sun  of 
[en  the  indurated 
ghty  earthquake. 
|r  con&ct  moving 
singular  spectacle 
xcs  touching  the 
ed  wr  in  the  elec- 
sping  on  like  the 
heart  of  the  mar- 
•ing  sky  over  the 
tho  heart  of  the 
_,o  close  upon  him 
vjul  which  shrouds 
ssionoftheatmoB- 
long-heated  soil, 
illy,  too,  the  pools 
by  the  now  seared 
■h  animals  become 
[nstrictor  He  wrapt 
Every  where  the 
3ting  wanderer  is 
atery  surface,  cre- 
stratura  separates 
hover  aloft,  owing 


ASPECTS   OF   THE   LLANOS. 


89 


to  the  contact  of  currents  of  air  having  different  degrees  of  heat  and 
therefore  of  density.  Shrouded  in  dark  clouds  of  dust,  and  tortured  by 
hunger  and  burning  thirst,  oxen  and  horses  scour  the  plain,  tho  one  bel- 
lowing dismally,  the  other  with  out-stretched  necks  snuffing  tho  wind, 
in  tho  endeavor  to  detect,  by  the  moisture  of  tho  air,  the  vicinity  of  some 
pool  of  water  not  yet  wholly  evaporated. 

"  Tlie  mule,  more  cautious  and  cunning,  adopts  another  method  of 
allaying  his  thirst.  There  is  a  globular  and  articulated  plant,  the  melo- 
cactus,  which  encloses  under  its  prickly  integument  nn  aqueous  pulp. 
After  carefully  striking  away  the  prickles  with  his  forefeet,  the  mule 
cautiously  ventures  to  apply  bis  lips  to  imbibe  the  cooling  thistle  juice. 
But  the  draught  from  this  living  vegetable  spring  is  not  always  un- 
attended by  danger,  and  these  animals  are  often  observed  to  have  been 
lamed  by  the  puncture  of  the  cactus  thorn.  Even  if  the  burning  heat 
of  day  be  succeeded  by  tho  cool  freshness  of  tho  night,  here  ahvays  of 
equal  length,  the  wearied  ox  and  horso  enjoy  no  repose.  Hugo  bats 
now  attack  the  animals  during  sleep,  and  vampyre-like  suck  their  blood; 
or,  fastening  on  their  backs,  raise  festering  wounds,  in  which  mosquitoes, 
•hippobosecs,  and  a  host  of  other  stinging  insects,  burrow  and  nestle. 

"  When,  after  a  long  drought,  the  genial  season  of  rain  arrives,  tho 
scene  suddenly  changes.  The  deep  azure  of  the  hitherto  cloudless  sky 
assumes  a  lighter  hue.  Scarcely  can  the  dark  space  in  the  constellation 
of  the  Southern  Cross  be  distinguished  at  night.  The  mild  phosphor- 
escence of  the  Magellanic  clouds  fades  away.  Like  some  distant  mount- 
ain, a  single  cloud  is  seen  rising  perpendicularly  on  the  southern  horizon. 
Misty  vapors  collect  and  gradually  overspread  the  heavens,  while  distant 
thunder  proclaims  the  approach  of  the  vivifying  rain.  {Scarcely  is  the 
surface  of  the  earth  moistened  before  t'io  teeming  steppe  becomes 
covered  with  a  variety  of  grasses.  Excited  by  the  power  of  light,  the 
herbaceous  mimosa  unfolds  its  dormant,  drooping  leaves,  hailing,  as  it 
were,  the  rising  sun  in  chorus  with  the  matin  song  of  the  birds  and  tho 
opening  flowers  of  aquatic  plants.  Horses  and  oxen,  buoyant  with  life 
and  enjoyment,  roam  over  and  crop  the  plains.  The  luxuriant  grass 
hides  the  beautifully  spotted  jaguar,  who,  lurking  in  safe  concealment, 
and  carefully  measuring  the  extent  of  the  leap,  darts,  like  the  Asiatic 
tiger,  with  a  cat-like  bound  on  his  passing  prey.  At  times,  according  to 
the  account  of  the  natives,  the  humid  clay  on  the  banks  of  the  morasses 
is  seen  to  rise  slowly  in  broad  flakes.  Accompanied  by  a  violent  noise, 
as  on  the  eruption  of  a  small  mud- volcano,  the  upheaved  earth  is  hurled 
high  into  the  air.  Those  who  are  familiar  with  the  phenomenon  fly 
from  it ;  for  a  colossal  water-snake,  or  a  mailed  and  scaly  crocodile, 
awakened  from  its  trance  by  the  first  fall  of  rain,  is  about  to  burst  from 
his  tomb. 

"  When  the  rivers  bounding  the  plain  to  the  south,  as  the  Arauca, 
the  Apure,  and  the  Payaro,  gradually  overflow  their  banks,  nature  com- 
pels those  creatures  to  live  as  amphibious  animals,  which,  during  the  first 


40 


LIFE   AND    TRAVELS    OF    HUMBOLDT. 


half  of  tho  year,  were  perishing  with  thirst  on  the  watorlcsH  and  dusty 
plain.  A  part  of  tho  stcppo  now  presents  the  appearance  of  a  vast  in- 
land sea.  The  mares  retreat  with  their  foals  to  the  higher  banks,  which 
project,  like  islands,  above  tho  spreading  waters.  Day  by  day  the  dry 
surface  diminishes  in  extent.  The  cattle,  crowded  together,  and  de- 
prived of  pasturage,  swim  for  hours  about  tho  inundated  plain,  seeking  a 
scanty  nourishment  from  the  flowering  panicles  of  the  grasses  which  rise 
above  the  lurid  and  bubbling  waters.  Many  foals  are  drowned,  many 
are  seized  by  crocodiles,  crushed  by  their  serrated  tails,  and  devoured. 
Horses  and  oxen  may  not  unfrequently  be  seen  which  have  escaped  from 
the  fury  of  this  blood-thirsty  and  gigantic  lizard,  bearing  on  their  legs 
the  marks  of  its  pointed  teeth." 

In  traversing  these  vast  plains,  which  were  then  parched  with  the 
intcnscst  heat,  tho  travelers  journeyed  mostly  by  night,  halting  occa- 
sionally at  tho  huts  of  tho  herdsmen,  who  tended  the  horses  and  cattle 
roaming  over  tho  Avaste.  After  four  or  five  days,  they  reached  the 
town  of  Calabozo,  a  place  containing  about  five  thousand  inhabitants, 
where  they  were  hospitably  entertained  by  the  superintendent  of  the 
royal  plantations.  In  this  remote  spot  they  were  greatly  surprised  to 
find  a  tolerable  electrical  apparatus  made  by  a  native  Spaniard,  who  had 
never  seen  anything  of  tho  kind  in  his  life.  He  had  constructed  it 
entirely  from  the  description  given  in  Franklin's  treatise,  and  was  beside 
himself  with  joy  at  seeing  the  strangers  arrive  with  the  same  machines, 
and  others,  of  which  he  had  never  even  heard.  During  a  stay  of  a  few 
days  in  Calabozo,  Humboldt,  after  much  difliculty,  succeeded  in  obtain- 
ing some  specimens  of  the  gymnotus,  or  electrical  eel.  Tho  Indians  con- 
ducted him  to  a  large  reservoir  of  slimy  water,  near  a  neighboring  vil- 
lage ;  but  it  was  not  found  possible  to  catch  the  eels  with  fishing-nets, 
as  they  bury  themselves  with  great  agility  in  the  slime.  He  did  not 
wish  to  employ  the  barbaaco  root,  which  stupefies  them  Avhen  thrown 
into  the  water.  Tho  Indians  then  declared  that  they  would  be  obliged 
to  "  fish  with  horses,"  thirty  of  which  they  collected  in  a  short  time. 
Humboldt,  who  had  never  heard  of  this  extraordinary  manner  of  fishing, 
anxiously  awiutod  the  result,  which  he  thus  describes :  "  The  noise  oc- 
casioned by  the  stamping  of  the  horses  drives  the  eels  out  of  the  slime 
and  irritates  them ;  they  rise  to  the  sur&ce  of  the  water,  and  crowd 
under  the  bellies  of  the  horses  and  mules.  A  contest  between  animals 
of  so  different  an  organization  presents  a  very  striking  spectacle.  The 
Indians,  provided  with  harpoons  and  long  slender  reeds,  surround  the 
pool  closely ;  and  some  climb  up  the  trees,  the  branches  of  which  extend 
horizontally  over  the  surface  of  the  water.  By  their  wild  cries,  and  tho 
length  of  their  reeds,  they  prevent  the  horses  from  running  away  and 
reaching  the  bank  of  the  pool.  The  eels,  stunned  by  the  noise,  defend 
themselves  by  the  repeated  discharge  of  their  electric  batteries.  For  a 
long  interval  they  seem  likely  to  prove  victorious.  Several  horses  sink 
beneath  the  violence  of  the  invisible  strokes  which  they  receive  from  all 


on 


'%t 


DT. 

itorlcss  and  dusty 
anco  of  a  vast  in- 
;her  banks,  which 
iy  by  day  the  dry 
[ogethcr,  and  de- 
}d  plain,  seeking  a 
grasses  'vhich  rise 
re  drowned,  many 
Ills,  and  devoured, 
have  escaped  from 
aring  on  their  legs 

I  parched  with  the 
light,  halting  occa-    | 
ic  horses  and  cattle 
they  reached  the 
ousand  inhabitants, 
perintendent  of  the 
^eatly  surprised  to 
Spaniard,  who  had 
had  constructed  it 
tise,  and  was  beside 
the  same  machines, 
•ing  a  stay  of  a  few 
iicceeded  in  obtain- 
il.   The  Indians  con- 
ir  a  neighboring  vil- 
els  with  fishing-nets, 
slime.    He  did  not 
1  them  when  thrown 
ey  would  be  obliged 
ed  in  a  short  time, 
ry  manner  of  fishing, 
bes:  "The  noise  oo- 
eels  out  of  the  slime 
te  water,  and  crowd 
est  between  animals 
dng  spectacle.    The 
•  reeds,  surround  the 
shes  of  which  extend 
r  wild  cries,  and  the 
m  running  away  and 
by  the  noise,  defend 
trie  batteries.    For  a 
Several  horses  sink 
they  receive  from  all 


FISHINO    FOR    ELECTRICAL    EBLS. 


41 


sides,  in  organs  the  most  essential  to  life  ;  and  stunned  by  the  force  and 
frequency  of  the  shocks,  they  disappear  under  the  water.  Others,  pant- 
ing, with  ma'io  erect,  and  haggard  eyes  expressing  anguish  and  dismay, 
raise  themselves,  and  endeavor  to  flee  from  the  storm  by  which  they  are 
overtaken.  They  arc  driven  back  by  the  Indians  into  the  middle  of  the 
water ;  but  a  small  number  succeed  in  eluding  the  active  vigilance  of 
the  fishermen.  These  regain  the  shore,  stumbling  at  every  step,  and 
stretch  themselves  on  the  sand,  exhausted  with  fiitigue,  and  with  limbs 
benumbed  by  the  electric  shocks  of  the  gymnoti. 

"  In  loss  than  five  minutes  two  of  our  horses  were  drowned.  The  eel 
.  being  five  feet  long,  and  pressing  itself  against  the  belly  of  the  horses, 
makes  a  discharge  along  the  whole  extent  of  its  electric  organ.  It  at- 
tacks at  once  the  heart,  the  intestines,  and  the  cseliac  fold  of  the  abdom- 
inal nerves.  It  is  natural  that  the  effect  felt  by  the  horses  should  be 
more  powerful  than  that  produced  upon  man  by  the  touch  of  the  same 
fish  at  only  one  of  his  extremities.  The  horses  are  probably  not  killed, 
but  only  stunned.  They  are  drowned  from  the  impossibility  of  rising 
amid  the  prolonged  struggle  between  the  other  horses  and  the  eels. 

*'  We  had  little  doubt  that  the  fishing  would  terminate  by  killing  suc- 
cessively all  the  animals  engaged ;  but  by  degrees  the  impetuosity  of  this 
unequal  combat  diminished,  and  the  wearied  gymnoti  dispersed.  Tliey 
require  a  long  rest,  and  abundant  nourishment,  to  rcpsur  the  galvanic 
force  which  they  have  lost  by  the  repeated  discharges.  The  horses  and 
mules  recovered  from  their  terror ;  their  manes  no  longer  bristled,  and 
their  eyes  ceased  to  glare  with  fear.  The  Indians  asserted  that  if  the 
horses  were  driven  to  the  same  water  on  two  consecutive  days,  none 
would  die  the  second  day.  The  eels  now  timidly  approached  the  shore, 
where  they  were  caught  with  little  harpoons  attached  to  long  cords.  If 
the  cords  were  perfectly  dry,  no  shock  was  felt  while  hauling  out  the 
fish,  but  it  was  conununicated  throitgh  the  wet  cords.  In  a  few  minutes 
five  large  eels  were  caught,  which  were  only  slightly  wounded,  and  sev- 
eral others  were  obttuned  the  same  evening.  Such  is  the  remarkable 
contest  between  horses  and  fish.  That  which  constitutes  the  invisible 
but  living  weapon  of  these  inhabitants  of  the  water — that,  which  awak- 
ened by  the  contact  of  moist  and  dissimilar  particles,  circulates  through 
all  the  organs  of  animals  and  plants — ^that  which  flashing  amid  the  roar 
of  thunder  illuminates  the  wide  canopy  of  heaven — ^which  binds  iron  to 
iron,  and  directs  the  silent  recurring  course  of  the  magnetic  needle — all, 
like  the  varied  hues  of  the  refracted  ray  of  light,  flow  from  one  common 
source,  and  all  blend  together  into  one  eternal  all-pervading  power. 

"  The  gymnotus  h  neither  a  charged  conductor,  nor  a  battery,  nor  an 
electromotive  apparatus,  the  shock  of  which  is  received  every  time  they 
are  touched  with  one  hand,  or  when  both  hands  are  employed  to  form  a 
conducting  circle  between  the  opposite  poles.  The  electric  action  of  the 
fish  depends  entirely  on  its  will ;  because  it  does  not  keep  its  electric 
organs  always  charged,  or  whether  by  the  secretion  of  some  fluid,  or  by 


'  '.f  .1 


42 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS    OF   HUMBOLDT. 


any  other  means  alike  mysterious  to  us,  it  be  capable  of  directing  the 
action  of  its  organs  to  an  external  object.  Wo  often  tried,  both  insulated 
and  otherwise,  to  touch  the  lish,  without  feeling  the  least  shock.  When 
M.  Bonpland  held  it  by  the  head,  or  by  the  middle  of  the  body,  while  I 
held  it  by  the  tail,  and,  standing  on  the  moist  ground,  did  not  take  each 
other's  hand,  one  of  us  received  shocks  which  the  other  did  not  feel.  It 
depends  upon  the  gymnotus  to  direct  its  action  toward  the  point  where 
it  finds  itself  most  strongly  irritated.  The  discharge  is  then  made  at  one 
jioint  only,  and  not  at  the  neighboring  points.  If  two  persons  touch  the 
belly  of  the  fish  with  their  fingers,  at  an  inch  distance,  and  press  it 
simultaneously,  sometimes  one,  sometimes  the  other,  will  receive  the 
shock.  It  would  be  temerity  to  expose  ourselves  to  the  first  shocks  of 
a  very  large  and  strongly  irritated  gymnotus.  If  by  chance  a  stroke  bo 
received  before  the  fish  is  wounded  or  wearied  by  long  pursuit,  the  pam 
and  numbness  arc  so  violent  that  it  is  impossible  to  describe  the  nature 
of  the  feeling  they  excite.  I  do  not  remember  having  ever  received 
from  the  discharge  of  a  large  Lcydcn  jar,  a  more  dreadful  shock  than 
that  which  I  ex])erienced  by  imprudently  placing  both  my  feet  on  a 
gymnotus  just  taken  out  of  the  water.  I  was  affected  during  the  rest 
of  the  day  with  a  violent  pain  in  the  knees,  and  in  almost  every  joint." 

The  travelers  lefl  Calabozo  on  the  24th  of  March,  and  continued 
their  journey  over  the  desolate  llanos.  On  the  way  they  found  an  In- 
dian girl  lying  in  the  road,  almost  lifeless,  and  with  her  mouth  and  nos- 
trils filled  with  sand.  They  restored  her  to  consciousness  and  gave  her 
some  wine  and  water,  but  she  refused  to  accompany  them,  and  wandered 
off  alone.  In  three  days  they  reached  the  Mission  of  San  Fernando,  on 
the  Apure  river,  one  of  the  principal  tributaries  of  the  Orinoco.  Here 
was  the  commencement  of  their  canoe  voyages  on  the  Apure,  the  Orin- 
oco, the  Cassiquiare,  and  the  Rio  Negro,  which  lasted  for  three  months. 
During  this  journey  they  were  ac&ompanied  by  Don  Nicholas  Soto, 
brother-in-law  of  the  governor  of  the  province.  They  hired  a  large 
canoe,  called  a  lancha  by  the  natives.  It  had  a  cabin,  covered  with 
palm-leaves,  in  the  stem,  and  was  managed  by  a  pilot  and  four  Indiana. 
Provision  for  a  month — consisting  of  fowls,  plaintains,  and  cassava  bread, 
to  which  the  Capuchins  added  some  Xeres  wine — ^was  placed  on  board, 
and  a  supply  of  fishing-tackle,  ammunition,  and  some  brandy  for  the 
Indians,  laid  in.  Hiunboldt  made  notes  of  every  thing  which  occurred 
on  the  voyage,  either  during  the  day,  or  after  the  canoe  had  halted  for 
the  night.  Owing  to  this  habit,  his  narrative  has  an  unmistakable  stamp 
of  truth  and  reality.  They  passed  the  last  plantation  on  the  second  day, 
and  then  entered  a  territory  inhabited  entirely  by  jaguars,  crocodiles, 
manati,  or  river-cows,  and  pecarries.  The  Apure,  which  grew  broader  as 
tliey  descended,  was  bordered  by  dense  forests,  the  trees  of  which  were 
full  of  monkeys  and  birds.  The  river  abounded  with  fish  and  tortoises, 
while  huge  crocodiles,  often  twenty  feet  in  Icn^h,  basked  on  the  sand. 
Notwithstanding  the  numbers  of  these  latter  animals,  the  r^y  season 


r. 

'  directing  the 
,  both  insulated 
Hhock.    When 
D  body,  while  I 
1  not  take  each 
lid  not  feel.    It 
;hc  point  where 
len  made  at  one 
irsona  touch  the 
c,  and  press  it 
vill  receive  the 
3  first  shocks  of 
anco  a  stroke  be 
)ur8uit,  the  pain 
cribe  the  nature 
g  ever  received 
idful  shock  than 
h  my  feet  on  a 
i  during  the  rest 
•St  every  joint." 
I,  and  continued 
liey  found  an  In- 
r  mouth  and  nos- 
less  and  gave  her 
m,  and  wandered 
Jan  Fernando,  on 
B  Orinoco.     Here 
Apure,  the  Orin- 
for  three  months, 
ti  Nicholas  Soto, 
ey  hired  a  large 
jin,  covered  with 

and  four  Indians, 
md  cassava  bread, 

placed  on  board, 
e  brandy  for  the 

g  which  occurred 
joe  had  halted  for 
imistakable  stamp 
)n  the  second  day, 
iguars,  crocodiles, 
;h  grew  broader  aa 
ees  of  which  were 

fish  and  tortoises, 

aked  on  the  sand. 

8,  the  rmny  season 


NIGHT    IN    THE    TROPICAL    FOUKSTS. 


43 


had  not  yet  commenced,  and  thousands  of  them  were  still  lying  dormant 
in  the  mud  of  the  plains.  In  those  wildernesses,  where  man  lives  in  con- 
stant strife  with  nature,  the  conversation  turns  much  upon  the  means  by 
which  one  can  escape  the  pursuit  of  a  tiger,  or  a  crocodile ;  all  prepare 
themselves  to  encounter  the  danger.  The  crocodile  loosens  its  hold 
if  the  person  seized  thrusts  his  finger  into  its  eyes,  and  the  travelers 
beard  of  several  instances  of  escape  in  this  manner. 

Humboldt  gives  the  following  picturesque  description  of  the  noc- 
turnal noises  of  animals  in  the  forests  of  the  Apure :  "Below  the  mission 
of  Santa  Barbara  do  Arichuna  we  passed  the  night  as  usual  in  the  o])c>n 
air,  on  a  sandy  flat,  on  the  bank  of  the  Apure,  skirted  by  the  impene- 
trable forest.  Wo  had  some  difficulty  in  finding  dry  wood  to  kindle  the 
fires  with  which  it  is  here  customary  to  surround  the  bivouac,  as  a  safe 
guard  against  the  attacks  of  the  jaguar.  The  air  was  bland  and  soft, 
and  the  moon  shono  brightly.  Several  crocodiles  approached  the  bank ; 
and  I  have  observed  that  fire  attracts  these  creatures  as  it  docs  our 
crabs  and  many  other  aquatic  animals.  The  oars  of  our  boats  were  fixed 
upright  in  the  ground,  to  support  our  hammocks.  Deep  stillness  pre 
vailed,  only  broken  at  intervals  by  the  blowing  of  the  fresh-water  dol- 
phins, which  are  peculiar  to  the  river  net-work  of  the  Orinoco.  After 
eleven  o'clock,  such  a  noise  began  in  the  contiguous  forest,  that  for  the 
remainder  of  the  night  all  sleep  was  impossible.  The  wild  cries  of  ani- 
mals rung  through  the  woods.  Among  the  many  voices  which  resound- 
ed together,  the  Indians  could  only  i  ecognize  those  which,  after  short 
pauses,  were  heard  singly.  There  wbs  the  monotonous,  plaintive  cry 
of  the  howling  monkeys,  the  whining,  flute-like  notes  of  the  small  sapa* 
jous,  the  grunting  murmur  of  the  striped  nocturnal  ape,  the  fitful  roar 
of  the  great  tiger,  the  cougar,  or  maneless  American  lion,  the  peccary, 
the  sloth,  and  a  host  of  parrots,  parraquas,  and  other  pheasant-like  birds. 
Whenever  the  tig-^rs  approached  the  edge  of  the  forest,  our  dog,  who 
before  had  barked  incessantly,  came  howling  to  seek  protection  under 
the  hammocks.  Sometimes  the  cry  of  the  tiger  resounded  from  the 
branches  of  a  tree,  and  was  then  always  accompanied  by  the  plaintive 
piping  tones  of  the  apes,  who  were  endeavoring  to  escape  from  the  im- 
wonted  pursuit. 

"  If  one  asks  the  Indians  why  such  a  continuous  noise  is  heard  on 
certain  nights,  they  answer,  with  a  smile,  that '  the  animals  are  rejoicing 
in  the  beautiful  moonlight,  and  celebratuig  the  return  of  the  full  moon.' 
To  me  the  scene  appeared  rather  to  be  owing  to  an  accidental,  long 
continued,  and  gradually  increasing  conflict  among  the  animals.  Thus, 
for  instance,  the  jaguar  will  pursue  the  peccaries  and  the  tapirs,  which, 
densely  crowded  together,  burst  through  the  barrier  of  tree-like  shrubs 
which  opposes  their  flight.  Terrified  at  the  confusion,  the  monkeys  on 
the  tops  of  the  trees  join  their  cries  with  those  of  the  larger  animals. 
This  arouses  the  tribes  of  birds  who  build  their  nests  in  communities,  and 
suddenly  the  whole  animal  world  is  in  a  state  of  commotion.    Further 


a 


LIFE   AND    TRAVELS   OF    nUlIBOLDT. 


cxpcrionco  taught  un,  that  it  wns  by  no  means  always  the  fcstiva?  of 
muonliglit  that  diHturbud  tho  fitilhiesa  of  tho  forest ;  for  we  observed 
that  the  voices  were  loudest  during  violent  storms  of  rain,  or  when  the 
thunder  echoed,  and  tho  lightning  flashed  through  tho  depths  of  tho 
woods.  Tho  good-natured  Franciscan  monk  who  accompanied  us  through 
tho  cataracts  of  Atures  and  Maypurcs  to  8an  Carlos,  on  the  Rio  Negro, 
and  to  the  Brazilian  frontier,  used  to  say,  when  apprehensive  of  a  storm 
nt  night,  '  ]^Iay  heaven  grant  a  quiet  uigbt  both  to  us  and  to  tho  wild 
beasts  of  tho  forest !' " 

Tlio  next  day,  Humboldt  was  fiH'orod  with  another  and  oven  moro 
unwelcome  experience.  "  While  my  companions  were  preparing  din- 
ner," ho  says,  "I  walked  along  the  beach  to  get  a  near  view  of  a  group 
of  crocodiles  sleeping  in  the  sun.  Some  little  herons,  white  as  snow, 
walked  along  their  backs,  and  even  upon  their  headf ,  as  if  passing  over 
trunks  of  trees.  Tho  crocodiles  wcro  of  a  greenish  gray,  half  covered 
with  dried  mud ;  from  their  color  and  immobility  they  might  have  been 
taken  for  statues  of  bronze.  This  excursion  hod  nearly  proved  fatal  to 
me.  I  had  kept  my  eyes  constantly  turned  toward  the  river;  but, 
while  picking  up  some  spangles  of  mica  in  the  sand,  I  discovered  the 
recent  footsteps  of  a  tiger,  easily  distinguishable  from  their  form  and 
size.  The  animal  had  gone  toward  tho  forest,  and  turning  my  eyes  on 
that  side,  I  found  myself  within  eighty  paces  of  a  jaguar  that  was  lying 
under  tho  thick  foliage  of  a  ceiba.  No  tiger  had  ever  appeared  to  mo 
so  large.  There  are  accidents  in  life  against  which  we  may  seek  in  vain 
to  fortify  our  reason.  I  was  extremely  alarmed,  yet  sufficiently  master 
of  myself  and  of  my  motions  to  enable  mo  to  follow  the  advice  which 
tho  Indians  had  so  often  given  us  as  to  how  we  ought  to  act  in  such 
cases.  I  continued  to  walk  on  without  running,  avoided  moving  my 
arms,  and  I  thought  I  observed  that  the  jaguar's  attention  Avas  fixed  on 
a  herd  of  capybaras  which  was  crossing  the  river.  I  then  began  to 
return,  making  a  large  circuit  toward  the  edge  of  the  water.  As  the 
distance  increased,  I  thought  I  might  accelerate  my  pace.  How  oflen 
was  I  tempted  to  look  back,  in  order  to  assure  myself  that  I  was  not 
pursued !  Happily  I  yielded  very  tardily  to  this  desire.  The  jaguar 
had  remained  motionless.  I  arrived  at  the  boat  out  of  breath,  and  re- 
lated my  adventure  to  the  Indians." 

On  the  afleiTioon  of  tho  4th  of  April,  afler  a  voyage  of  six  days  on 
the  Apure,  they  entered  the  Orinoco.  An  immense  plain  of  water 
stretched  before  them  like  a  sea.  White-topped  waves,  caused  by  a 
wind  blowing  against  the  current,  rose  to  the  height  of  several  feet.  The 
distant  horizon  was  bounded  by  a  zone  of  level  forests.  Humboldt  found 
the  Apure,  at  the  junction,  to  be  one  thousand  two  hundred  feet  in 
brtadth,  and  the  Orinoco  twelve  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty ; 
during  the  rainy  season  the  latter  river  attains  a  breadth  of  thirty-five 
thousand  feet,  or  nearly  seven  miles.  Sailing  lip  the  Orinoco,  they 
touched  at  the  port  of  Enoaramada,  where  they  first  saw  some  specimens 


nSHINO    FOR   TURTLE'S    E008. 


45 


;hc  festival  of 
»r  we  observed 
,n,  or  when  the 
depths  of  tho 
lied  U8  through 
the  Rio  Negro, 
give  of  a  storm 
nd  to  tho  wild 

and  oven  more 
preparing  dm- 
lew  of  a  group 
white  as  snow, 
if  passing  over 
ly,  half  covered 
night  have  been 
■  proved  fatal  to 
the  river;   but, 
discovered  the 
their  form  and 
ling  my  eyes  on 
,r  that  was  lying 
'  appeared  to  mo 
nay  seek  in  vain 
fficiently  master 
;he  advice  which 
it  to  act  in  such 
led  moving  my 
ion  was  fixed  on 
I  then  began  to 
water.    As  tho 
ace.    How  often 
that  I  was  not 
ire.    The  jaguar 
)f  breath,  and  re- 

je  of  six  days  on 
I  plain  of  water 
ves,  caused  by  a 
several  feet.  The 
Humboldt  found 
hundred  feet  in 
red  and  eighty; 
idth  of  thirty-five 
le  Orinoco,  they 
V  some  specimens 


of  the  naked  Caribs.  Thoy  were  bound  for  a  sandy  inland  in  tho  river, 
celebrated  for  its  fisheries  of  turtle's  eggs.  HiimboUlt  and  lionpland 
reached  this  island  next  day,  and  found  there  the  missionary  of  Uruann, 
who  was  greatly  astonished  at  seeing  thorn.  After  having  admired  their 
instruments,  ho  gave  them  nn  exaggerated  picture  of  tho  suflbrings  to 
which  they  would  bo  necessarily  exposed  in  ascending  tho  Orinoco 
beyond  tho  cataracts.  Tho  object  of  their  jouniey  appeared  to  him 
very  mysterious.  "  How  is  it  possible  to  believe,"  said  he,  "  that  you 
have  left  your  coimtry,  to  come  and  bo  devoured  by  mosquitoes  on  this 
river,  and  to  measure  lands  that  aro  not  your  o\vn  ?"  While  halting  at 
the  island,  they  witnessed  the  method  of  collecting  turtle's  eggs,  and 
extracting  the  oil.  Tlio  turtle  always  lays  its  eggs  at  tho  time  of  tho 
lowest  water,  beginning  at  night,  immediately  after  ?«un8et.  It  digs  a 
pit  two  feet  deep,  and  then  commences  tho  work,  which  iVequently  lasts 
all  night.  There  are  such  numbers  that  if  one  turtle  finds  a  hole,  which 
has  not  been  filled  up,  from  the  haste  of  its  owner  on  being  surprised  by 
the  sunrise,  he  deposits  a  second  layer  of  eggs  over  the  top  of  tho  first. 
The  egg-gatherers  investigate  tho  situation  and  extent  of  these  deposits 
with  a  long  pole,  which,  Mhcn  pressed  perpendicularly  into  tho  soil,  re- 
veals tho  looser  sand  below,  on  which  the  eggs  lie.  The  harvest  is  then 
gathered  in  with  methodical  regularity.  According  to  the  number  of  In- 
dian tribes,  the  soil  is  divided  into  certain  districts,  for  the  deposits  of  eggs 
are  found  three  feet  deep,  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  from  the  shore. 
When  they  have  sounded  with  the  poles,  the  Indians  dig  up  the  soil 
with  their  hands,  and  break  the  eggs  into  wooden  troughs  filled  with 
water,  after  which  they  expose  them  to  the  rays  of  the  sun  until  the 
yellow,  upper,  oily  part  thickens.  This  oil  is  then  skimmed  off  and 
boiled,  and  if  none  of  tho  eggs  contain  embryo  tortoises,  it  is  very  pure 
and  of  an  agreeable  flavor.  A  space  on  tho  shore,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  long,  and  thirty  feet  broad,  gives  one  hundred  jars  of  oil,  and  five 
thousand  eggs  are  required  to  fill  a  single  jar.  It  is  estimated  that  tho 
quantity  of  eggs  taken  from  the  island,  amounts  to  thirty-three  millions  1 
in  the  afternoon  the  travelers  had  a  narrow  escape  from  shipwreck. 
The  boat,  struck  by  a  violent  gust  of  wind,  was  thv  >^vn  on  hej^beam 
ends,  and  was  only  righted  by  the  breaiang  of  some  cordage,'  and  tho 
change  of  the  wind.  All  their  plants  and  books  were  sobmergod,  and 
Hnmboldt  saved  his  journal  with  difficulty.  When  at  nightfall  ho 
bivouacked  on  a  sterile  island  in  the  stream,  eating  his  evening  meal  in 
the  moonlight,  seated  on  tortoise  shells,  he  realized  the  great  danger  he 
had  escaped.  He  had  only  been  on  tho  Orinoco  three  days,  and  a 
voyage  of  three  months,  involving  far  greater  risks,  was  before  him. 
•*  There  are  moments  in  life,"  he  wrote,  "  in  which,  without  absolutely 
despairing,  the  future  seems  very  uncertain;  one  is  more  apt  to  indulge 
in  serious  reflection,  when,  after  having  escaped  a  danger,  he  has  need 
of  a  strong  emotion.'*    While  he  meditated  thus,  lying  upon  a  skin 


46 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OP  HUMBOLDT. 


spread  on  the  ground,  the  jaguars  swam  across  the  stream,  and  prowled 
around  hira. 

The  next  day  they  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Arauca  river  and  the 
Mission  of  Uruana,  a  village  of  five  hundred  inhabitants,  most  of  whom 
belonged  to  the  clay-eating  Otomao  tribe.  Beyond  this  point  the  river 
became  narrower  and  the  current  stronger.  They  continued  to  ascend 
under  8.ail,  but  the  high  and  woody  grounds  deprived  them  of  wind.  In 
the  strait  of  Baraguan,  as  it  is  called,  where  the  river  is  but  a  mile  in 
breadth,  they  found  almost  perpendicular  masses  of  granite,  seven  hun- 
dred feet  high.  On  the  0th  of  April  they  reached  an  Indian  settlemenjt, 
called  Pararuma,  where  the  pilot,  who  had  conducted  them  from  San 
Fernando,  and  who  was  unacquainted  with  the  passage  of  the  rapids  of 
the  Orinoco,  refused  to  go  further.  Fortunately,  they  succeeded  in 
bringing  an  excellent  canoe,  to  replace  the  kmcha,  and  Father  Bernardo 
Zta,  missionary  of  Atures,  near  the  cataract,  offered  to  accompany  them 
to  the  frontiers  of  Brazil.  Humboldt  gives  the  following  description  of 
their  outfit  and  manner  of  voyaging :  "  The  new  canoe,  intended  for  us 
was,  like  all  Indian  boats,  a  trunk  of  a  tree  hollowed  out  partly  by  the 
hatchet  and  partly  by  fire.  It  was  forty  feet  long,  and  three  broad. 
Three  persons  could  not  sit  in  it  side  by  side.  These  canoes  arc  so 
crank,  and  they  require,  from  their  instability,  a  cargo  so  equally  dis- 
tributed, that  when  you  want  to  rise  for  an  instant,  you  must  warn  the 
rowers  to  lean  to  the  opposite  side.  Without  this  precaution  the  water 
would  necessarily  enter  the  side  pressed  down.  It  is  difficult  to  form  an 
idea  of  the  inconveniences  that  are  suffered  in  such  wretched  vessels. 
To  gain  something  in  breadth,  a  sort  of  lattice-work  had  been  constructed 
on  the  stern  with  branches  of  trees,  that  extended  on  each  side  beyond 
the  gunwale.  Unfortunately,  the  toldo,  or  roof  of  leaves,  that  covered 
this  lattice-work,  was  so  low  that  we  were  obliged  to  lie  down,  without 
seeing  any  thing,  or,  if  seated,  to  sit  nearly  double.  The  necessity  of 
carrying  the  canoe  across  the  rapids,  and  even  from  one  river  to  another ; 
and  the  fear  of  giving  too  much  hold  to  the  wind,  by  making  the  toldo 
higher,  render  this  construction  necessary  for  vessels  that  go  up  toward 
the  Rio  Negro.  The  toldo  was  intended  to  cover  four  persons,  lying  on 
the  deck  or  lattice-work  of  brush-wood ;  but  our  legs  reached  far  beyond 
it,  and  when  it  rained  half  our  bodies  were  wet.  Our  couches  consisted 
of  ox-hides  or  tiger-skins  spread  upon  branches  of  trees,  which  were 
painfully  felt  through  so  thin  a  covering.  The  fore  part  of  the  boat  was 
filled  with  Indian  rowers,  furnished  with  paddles,  three  feet  long,  in  the 
form  of  spoons.  They  were  all  naked,  seated  two  by  two,  and  they 
kept  time  in  rowing  with  a  surprising  uniformity,  singing  songs  of  a  sad 
^and  monotonous  character.  The  small  cages  containing  our  birds  and 
our  monkeys — the  number  of  which  augmented  as  we  advanced — were 
hung  some  to  the  toldo  and  others  to  the  bow  of  the  boat.  This  was 
our  traveling  menagerie.  Every  night,  when  we  established  our  watch, 
our  collection  of  animals  and  our  instruments  occupied  the  center ;  around 


chaiJ 


)T. 

n,  and  prowled 

i  river  and  the 
,  most  of  whom 
point  the  river 
inued  to  ascend 
em  of  '.vind.    In 
13  but  a  mile  in 
initc,  seven  hun- 
idian  settlement, 
them  from  San 
of  the  rapids  of 
ey  succeeded  in 
Father  Bernardo 
accompany  them 
ig  description  of 
1,  intended  for  us 
out  partly  by  the 
ind  three  broad. 
;30  canoes  are  so 
fo  so  equally  dis- 
ou  must  warn  the 
laution  the  water 
iifficult  to  form  an 
wretched  vessels, 
i  been  constructed 
each  side  beyond 
ives,  that  covered 
Ue  down,  without 
The  necessity  of 
e  river  to  another ; 
r  making  the  toldo 
hat  go  up  toward 
r  persons,  lying  on 
reached  far  beyond 
•  couches  consisted 
trees,  which  were 
irt  of  the  boat  was 
se  feet  long,  in  the 
by  two,  and  they 
Ting  songs  of  a  sad 
ling  our  birds  and 
re  advanced— were 
le  boat.    This  was 
iblished  our  watch, 
the  center ;  around 


VOYAGE  UP   THE   ORINOCO. 


47 


these  were  placed  first  our  hammocks,  then  the  hammocks  of  the  Indians ; 
and  on  the  outside  were  the  fires,  which  are  thought  indispensable  against 
the  attacks  of  the  jaguar.  About  sunrise  the  monkeys  in  our  cages  an- 
swered the  cries  of  the  monkeys  of  the  forest. 

"  In  a  canoe  not  three  feet  wide,  and  so  incumbered,  there  remained 
no  other  place  for  the  dried  plants,  trunks,  sextant,  a  dipping-needle,  and 
the  meteorological  instruments,  than  the  space  below  the  lattice-work 
of  branches,  on  which  we  were  compelled  to  remain  stretched  the  greater 
part  of  the  day.  If  we  wished  to  take  the  least  object  out  of  a  trunk, 
or  to  use  an  instrument,  it  was  necessary  to  row  ashore  and  land.  To 
these  inconveniences  were  joined  the  torment  of  the  mosquitoes  which 
swarmed  under  the  toldo,  and  the  heat  radiated  from  the  leaves  of  the 
palm-trees,  the  upper  surface  of  which  was  continually  exposed  to  the 
solar  rays.  We  attempted  every  instant,  but  always  without  success,  to 
amend  our  situation.  While  one  of  us  hid  himself  under  a  sheet  to  ward 
off  the  insects,  the  other  insisted  on  having  green  wood  lighted  beneath 
the  toldo,  in  the  hope  of  driving  away  the  mosquitoes  by  the  smoke.  The 
painful  sensations  of  the  eyes,  and  the  increase  of  heat,  already  stifling, 
rendered  both  these  contrivances  alike  impracticable.  With  some  gayety 
of  temper,  with  feelings  of  mutual  good-will,  and  with  a  vivid  taste  for 
the  majestic  grandeur  of  these  vast  valleys  of  rivers,  travelers  easily  sup- 
port evils  that  become  habitual." 

On  the  10th  of  April  they  commenced  their  voyage  in  this  narrow 
craft,  slowly  ascending  the  Orinoco.  They  were  hospitably  received  at 
the  Mission  of  Carichana,  and  on  the  second  day  passed  the  mouth  of 
the  Meta,  one  of  the  largest  tributaries  of  the  Orinoco,  with  a  volume  of 
water  equal  to  that  of  the  Danube.  It  is  navigable  as  far  as  the  foot  of 
the  Andes  of  New  Grenada,  within  twenty  leagues  of  Bogota,  the  cap- 
ital, The  Orinoco  now  began  to  rise,  much  to  the  surprise  of  the  Indians, 
as  the  rainy  season  had  not  yet  fairly  set  in.  On  the  13th,  afler  passing 
the  rapids  of  Tabaje,  they  reached  the  Mission  of  San  Borja,  where  they 
found  a  number  of  converted  Guahibo  Indians.  The  interest  with  which 
they  examined  these  creatures,  ocasioned,  singularly  enough,  the  desertion 
of  the  mission.  The  Guahihos  of  the  forest  persuaded  their  brethren  that 
the  whites,  on  their  return,  would  carry  them  off  as  slaves,  and  they  all  fled 
into  the  woods.  They  had  much  difficulty  in  conversing  with  the  differ- 
ent tribes  which  they  met  with  on  the  river,  and  were  sometimes  obliged 
to  employ  several  interpreters  at  the  same  time.  They  were,  however, 
in  no  danger  from  hostile  attacks,  the  Jesuits  having  subjugated  the 
natives  by  force  of  arms,  before  they  administered  their  spiritual  conso- 
lations. One  of  these  priests  said  to  Humboldt,  with  great  candor,  "  The 
voice  of  the  Gospel  is  heard  only  where  the  Indians  have  also  heard  the 
sound  of  fire-arms.  By  chastising  the  natives,  we  facilitate  their  con- 
version." 

The  river  Orinoco,  in  its  course  from  south  to  north,  is  crossed  by  a 
chain  of  granite  mountains.    Twice  condncd  in  its  course,  it  turbulently 


48 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


breaks  on  the  rocks,  which  form  steppes  and  transverse  dykes.  "  Neither 
the  fall  of  Tequcndama,"  says  Humboldt,  "  nor  the  magnificent  scenes 
of  the  Cordilleras,  could  weaken  the  impression  produced  upon  my  mind 
by  the  first  view  of  the  rapids  of  Atures  and  of  Maypures.  When  the 
spectator  is  so  stationed  that  the  eye  can  at  once  take  in  the  long  succes- 
sion of  cataracts,  and  the  immense  sheet  of  foam  and  vapor  illumined  by 
the  rays  of  the  setting  sun,  the  whole  river  seems,  as  it  were,  suspended 
over  its  bed."  They  reached  the  Mission  of  Atures,  at  the  foot  of  the  first 
cataract,  on  the  evening  of  April  15.  During  this  day's  voyage  they  were 
struck  with  the  supernatural  silence  of  the  tropical  noonday :  "  Not  a 
breath  of  air  moved  the  dust-liko  sand.  The  sun  stood  in  the  zenith ; 
and  the  efiVilgence  of  light  poured  upon  the  river  gave  additional  dis- 
tinctness to  the  red  haze  which  vailed  the  distance.  All  the  rocky 
mounds  and  naked  boulders  were  covered  with  large,  thick-scaled  igua- 
nas, gecko-lizards,  and  spotted  salamanders.  Motionless,  with  uplifted 
heads  and  widely-extended  mouths,  they  seemed  to  inhale  the  heated  air 
with  ecstasy.  The  larger  animals  at  such  times  take  refuge  in  the  deep 
recesses  of  the  forest,  the  birds  nestle  beneath  the  foliage  of  the  trees,  or 
in  the  clefts  of  the  rocks ;  but  if  in  this  apparent  stillness  of  nature  we 
listen  closely  for  the  faintest  tones,  we  detect  a  dull,  muffled  sound,  a 
buzzing  and  humming  of  insects  close  to  the  earth,  in  the  lower  strata 
of  the  ati  osphere.  Everything  proclaims  a  world  of  active  organic 
forces.  In  every  shrub,  in  the  cracked  bark  of  trees,  in  the  perforated 
ground  inhabited  by  hymenopterous  insects,  life  is  everywhere  audibly 
manifest.  It  is  one  of  the  many  voices  of  nature  revealed  to  the  pious 
and  susceptible  spirit  of  man."  They  found  the  cataract  of  Atures  to  be 
a  succession  of  rapids,  extending  over  a  distance  of  four  or  five  miles,  in 
which  the  entire  fall  of  the  river  was  about  thirty-two  feet,  presenting  a 
striking  resemblance  to  the  cUtaraots  of  the  Nile,  while  the  method  of  as- 
cending tl.em  in  canoes  is  almost  precisely  similar  to  that  employed  by  the 
Egyptian'!.  When  the  dikes,  or  natural  dams,  are  only  two  or  three  feet 
high,  the  Indians  venture  to  descend  them  in  boats.  In  going  up  the  river, 
they  swiia  on  before,  and  if,  after  many  vain  eflforts,  they  succeed  in  fix- 
ing a  ropu  to  one  of  the  points  of  rock  that  crown  the  dike,  they  then, 
by  means  of  that  rope,  draw  the  bark  to  the  top  of  the  rapid.  The  bark, 
during  thib  arduous  task,  often  fills  with  water ;  at  other  times  it  is  stove 
agauist  the  rocks,  and  the  Indians,  their  bodies  bruised  and  bleeding, 
extricate  thtmselves  with  difficulty  from  the  whirlpools,  and  reach,  by 
swimming,  t'ae  nearest  island.  Wben  the  steppes  or  rocky  barriers  are 
very  high,  and  entirely  bar  the  river,  light  boats  are  carried  on  shore,  and 
with  the  help  of  branches  of  trees  placed  under  them  to  serve  as  rollers, 
-they  arc  drawn  as  fiir  as  the  place  where  the  river  again  becomes  nav- 
igable.   This  operation  is  seldom  necessary  when  the  water  is  high. 

After  two  days  spent  at  Atures,  Humboldt_and  Bonpland  continued 
their  voyage,  still  accompanied  by  Don  Nicholas  Soto  and  Father  Ber- 
nardo Zea.    They  now  began  to  suffer  indescribable  torments  from  the 


SUFFERINOS   FROM   MOSQUITOES. 


49 


rkes.  "  Neither 
piificent  scenes 
[  upon  my  mind 
es.    When  the 
the  long  succes- 
)or  illumined  by 
were,  suspended 
■  foot  of  the  first 
oyage  they  were 
onday:  "Not  a 
1  in  the  zenith; 
e  additional  dis- 
AU  the  rocky 
thick-scaled  iguar 
388,  with  uplifted 
ale  the  heated  air 
.fuge  in  the  deep 
re  ofthe  trees,  or 
ess  of  nature  we 
muffled  sound,  a 
1  the  lower  strata 
of  active  organic 
in  the  perforated 
eiywhere  audibly 
Baled  to  the  pious 
ict  of  Aturestobe 
ur  or  five  miles,  in 
feet,  presenting  a 
e  the  method  of  as- 
at  employed  by  the 
y  two  or  three  feet 
going  up  the  river, 
they  succeed  in  fix- 
16  dike,  they  then, 
e  rapid.  The  bark, 
ler  times  it  is  stove 
aised  and  bleeding, 
iool8,and  reach,  by 
•  rocky  barriers  are 
arried  on  shore,  and 
1  to  serve  as  rollers, 
agtun  becomes  nav- 
B  water  is  high, 
rjonpland  continued 
to  and  Father  Ber- 
6  torments  from  the 


mosquitoes  and  venomous  flics  by  day,  and  the  zancudos  (a  species  of 
large  gnats)  by  night.  These  pests  would  bite  through  thick  garments, 
and  could  not  be  driven  away  by  smoke.  They  came  in  such  clouds 
that  the  mouths,  ears,  and  noses  of  the  travelers  were  filled  with  them. 
Their  bands  were  swollen  and  covered  with  hard,  painful  blotches,  and 
they  were  at  last  able  to  tell  the  time  of  day  by  the  regularity  with 
which  the  different  varieties  of  stinging  insects  made  their  visitations. 
On  the  upper  Orinoco,  the  principal  topic  of  conversation,  both  among 
the  natives  and  the  missionaries,  is  mosquitoes.  Tiie  usual  salutations 
are :  "  How  did  you  find  the  gnats  during  the  night  ?"  "  How  are  you 
off  for  mosquitoes  to-day  ?"  which  reminded  Humboldt  of  an  ancient 
Chinese  manner  of  greeting :  "Have  you  been  incommoded  in  the  night 
by  serpents?"  "  The  lower  strata  of  air,"  he  writes,  "  from  the  surface 
ofthe  ground  to  the  height  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  arc  absolutely  filled 
with  venomous  insects.  If  in  an  obscure  spot,  for  instance  in  the  grottos 
of  the  cataracts  formed  by  superincumbent  blocks  of  granite,  you  direct 
your  eyes  toward  the  opening  enlightened  by  the  sun,  you  see  clouds  of 
mosquitoes  more  or  less  thick.  I  doubt  whether  there  be  a  country  upon 
earth,  where  man  is  exposed  to  more  cruel  torments  in  the  rainy  season. 
Having  passed  the  fifth  degree  of  latitude,  you  are  somewhat  less  stung ; 
but  on  the  upper  Orinoco  the  stings  are  more  painful,  because  the  heat 
and  the  absolute  want  of  wind  render  the  air  more  burning  and  more 
irritating  in  its  contact  with  the  skin.  '  How  comfortable  must  people 
be  in  the  moon  !>  said  a  Salive  Indian  to  Father  Gumilla ;  '  she  looks  so 
beautiful  and  so  clear,  that  she  must  be  free  from  mosquitoes.'  These 
words,  which  denote  the  infancy  of  a  people,  are  very  remarkable.  The 
satellite  ofthe  earth  appears  to  all  savage  nations  the  abode  ofthe  bless- 
ed, the  country  of  abundance.  The  Esquimaux,  who  counts  among  his 
riches  a  plank  or  trunk  of  a  tree,  thrown  by  the  currents  on  a  coast 
destitute  of  vegetation,  sees  in  the  moon  plains  covered  with  forests ; 
the  Indian  ofthe  forests  of  Orinoco  there  beholds  open  savannahs,  where 
the  inhabitants  are  never  stung  by  mosquitoes." 

Two  more  days  brougul  them  to  the  great  cataract,  or  rapid  of  May- 
pures,  which  they  reached  after  night,  in  the  midst  of  a  violent  rain. 
Father  Zea  lighted  torches  of  copal,  and  conducted  them  to  the  misnion, 
where  they  renuuned  while  the  Indians  dragged  the  canoe  up  the  rapids. 
At  the  northern  end  of  the  principal  cataract,  which  has  a  fall  of  nine 
feet  perpendicular,  there  is  a  lofty  rock  called  Eeri,  so  named  from  a 
luminous  white  spot,  in  which  the  Indians  perceive  a  remarkable  similar- 
ity to  the  moon.  Humboldt  was  not  able  to  climb  the  rock,  but  sup- 
posed the  white  spot  to  be  an  immense  piece  of  quartz  in  the  dark 
granite.  On  an  opposite  rock,  the  Indians  showed  a  similar  disc,  which 
they  called  Camosi.  and  worshiped  as  an  image  of  the  sun.  The  best 
view  ofthe  cataract,  is  from  the  rock  of  Manimi,  a  granite  ridge  near 
the  mission  of  Maypures.  "We  often  visited  this  mountain,*'  says  Hum- 
boldt, "  for  we  were  never  weary  of  gazing  on  the  astonishing  spectacle. 

4 


50 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


% 


* 

I 

I 


From  the  summit  of  the  rock  is  descried  a  sheet  of  foam,  extending  the 
length  of  a  whole  mile.  Enormous  masses  of  stone,  black  as  iron,  issue 
from  its  bosom.  Some  are  grouped  in  pairs,  like  basaltic  hills ;  others 
resemble  towers,  fortified  castles,  and  ruined  buildings.  Their  gloomy- 
tint  contrasts  with  the  silvery  splendor  of  the  foam.  Every  rock,  every 
islet  is  covered  with  vigorous  trees,  collected  in  clusters.  As  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach,  a  thick  vapor  is  suspended  over  the  river,  and  through 
this  whitish  fog  the  tops  of  the  lofty  palm-trees  shoot  up.  Such  is  the 
character  of  the  landscape  discovered  from  the  top  of  the  mountain  of 
Manimi,  which  no  traveler  has  yet  described.  The  calm  of  the  atmos- 
phere, and  the  tumultuous  movement  of  the  waters,  produce  a  contrast 
peculiar  to  this  zone.  Here  no  breath  of  wind  ever  agitates  the  foliage, 
no  cloud  vails  the  splendor  of  the  azure  vault  of  heaven ;  a  great  mass 
of  light  is  diffused  in  the  air,  on  the  earth  strewn  with  plants  with  glossy 
leaves,  and  on  the  bed  of  the  river,  which  extends  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  When  the  rays  of  the  glowing  evening  sun  are  refracted  in  the 
humid  atmosphere,  an  exquisite  optical  illusion  is  produced.  Colored 
bows  appear,  vanish,  and  re-appear,  while  the  ethereal  picture  dances, 
like  an  ignis  fatuus,  with  every  motion  of  the  sportive  breeze.  In  the 
blue  distance  the  eye  rests  on  the  mountain  chain  of  Cunavami,  a  far- 
stretching  range  of  hills  which  terminates  abruptly  in  a  sharply  truncated 
cone.  We  saw  this  conical  hill,  called  by  the  Indians  Calitamini,  glow- 
ing at  sunset  as  if  in  crimson  flames.  This  appearance  daily  returns.  No 
one  has  ever  been  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  this  mountain. 
Possibly  its  dazzling  brightness  is  produced  by  the  reflecting  surface  of 
decomposing  talc,  or  mica  schist." 


VOYAGES   ON    THE    RIO    NEGRO    AND    CASSIQUIARE. 

On  the  2l8t  of  April,  they  re-embarked  in  their  narrow  canoes, 
which  had  suffered  considerable  damage  by  striking  against  the  rocks. 
The  rainy  season  had  now  &irly  set  in ;  there  were  heavy  showers  al- 
most duly,  and  as  the  wind  never  blows  in  these  regions,  they  suffered 
terribly  from  mosquitoes.  They  made  good  progress,  however,  and  on 
the  night  of  the  24th  entered  the  Guaviare,  the  largest  tributary  of  the 
Orinoco,  then  the  Atabapo,  which  flows  into  it  from  the  south,  near  its 
junction  with  the  former  river,  and  reached  the  .uission  of  San  Fer- 
nando. Humboldt  now  found  himself  on  the  spot  where  he  could  be 
enabled  to  verify  the  celebrated  bifurcation  of  the  Orinoco,  which  had 
been  previously  doubted  by  geographers.  Tlie  upper  Orinoco,  near 
tlje  mission  of  Esmeralda,  divides  itself  into  two  parts,  one  of  which, 
flowing  westward,  receives  the  Guaviare  and  other  tributaries,  and  con- 
tinues its  way  to  the  Caribbean  Sea ;  the  other,  turning  southward, 
forms  a  branch  of  the  Rio  Netrro,  and  mingles  its  waters  with  those  of 
the  Amazon.   This  extraordinary  geographical  feature,  the  only  instance 


extending  the 
as  iron,  issue 
c  hills;  others 
Their  gloomy 
ity  rock,  every 

As  far  as  the    | 
p,  and  through    | 
p.    Such  is  the 
he  mountain  of 
n  of  the  atmos- 
iduce  a  contrast 
ites  the  foliage, 
1 ;  a  great  mass 
ints  with  glossy 
r  as  the  eye  can 
refracted  in  the 
luced.     Colored 
picture  dances, 
breeze.    In  the 
Ziunavami,  a  far- 
harply  truncated 
3alitamini,  glow- 
aily  returns.   No 
f  this  mountain, 
icting  surface  of 


SIQUIARE. 

■  narrow  canoes, 
gainst  the  rocks, 
leavy  showers  al- 
jns,  they  suffered 
however,  and  on 
i  tributary  of  the 
he  south,  near  its 
ssion  of  San  Fer- 
here  he  could  be 
inoco,  which  had 
er  Orinoco,  near 
rts,  one  of  which, 
butaries,  and  con- 
ming  southward, 
:er8  with  those  of 
the  only  instance 


PLAN    OF   FURTHER    EXPLORATION. 


51 


of  the  kind  on  a  large  scale,  was  first  satisfactorily  established  by  Hum- 
boldt's explorations.  The  mission  of  San  Fernando  de  Atabapo  was  the 
threshold  of  the  comparatively  unknown  region  which  he  was  to  pene- 
trate. ''  D''.ring  the  night,"  he  says,  "  we  had  left,  almost  unperceived, 
the  waters  of  the  Orinoco;  and  at  sunrise  found  ourselves  as  if  trans- 
ported to  a  new  country,  on  the  banks  of  a  river,  the  name  of  which  we 
had  scarcely  ever  heard  pronounced,  and  which  was  to  conduct  us,  by 
the  portage  of  Pimichin,  to  the  Rio  Negro,  on  the  frontiers  of  Brazil. 
'  You  will  go  up,'  said  the  president  of  the  missions,  who  resides  at  San 
Fernando,  '  first  the  Atabapo,  then  the  Temi,  and  finally,  the  Tuamini. 
When  the  force  of  the  current  of  "black  waters"  hinders  you  from  ad- 
vancing, you  will  be  conducted  out  of  the  bed  of  the  river  through 
forests,  which  you  will  find  inundated.  Two  monks  only  are  settled  in 
those  desert  places,  between  the  Orinoco  and  the  Rio  Negro;  but  at 
Javita  you  will  be  furnished  with  the  means  of  having  your  canoe  drawn 
over  land  in  the  course  of  four  days  to  the  rivulet  of  Pimichin.  If  it  be 
not  broken  to  pieces  you  will  descend  the  Rio  Negro  without  any  ob- 
stacle as  far  as  the  little  fort  of  San  Carlos ;  you  will  go  up  the  Cassi- 
quiare  (from  south  to  north),  and  then  return  to  San  Fernando  in  a 
month,  descending  the  upper  Orinoco  from  east  to  west.'  Such  Avas 
the  plan  traced  for  our  passage,  and  we  carried  it  into  effect  without 
danger,  though  not  without  some  suffering,  in  the  space  of  thirty-three 
days." 

Aft;er  resting  a  day  at  the  mission,  they  commenced  their  voyage  up 
the  Atabapo,  the  water  of  which  was  of  a  much  darker  hue  and  purer 
quality  than  that  of  the  Orinoco.  The  banks  were  entirely  concealed 
by  the  dense  growth  of  palms  and  other  trees.  In  order  to  shoiten  the 
journey,  the  Indians  left  the  main  bed  of  the  river  and  took  narrow 
channels  (occasioned  by  the  nuns),  which  led  directly  through  the 
forests.  The  foliage  was  so  dense  that  no  ray  of  sunlight  could  pene- 
trate it,  and  they  were  often  obliged  to  hew  with  knives  a  passage  for 
the  canoe.  On  the  30th  of  May,  they  left  the  Atabapo,  and  entered  a 
branch  called  the  Temi.  Near  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers  stands  a 
granite  mound,  called  the  "  Mother's  Rock,"  on  account  of  a  touching 
history  which  it  commemorates  Three  years  previous,  the  missionary 
at  San  Fernando  had  undertaken  a  hostile  expedition  among  the  Indians 
for  the  purpose  of  capturing  souls.  Among  other  prisoners  taken  was  a 
woman  who  was  surprised  alone  in  a  hut,  her  husband  having  gone  off 
on  a  hunting  expedition,  accompanied  by  the  children.  After  being 
carried  to  San  Fernando,  the  desire  to  see  her  children  induced  her  to 
attempt  an  escape.  She  fled  repeatedly,  but  was  as  often  caught  and 
brought  back,  and  violently  flogged,  without  effect.  It  was  then  deter- 
mined to  send  her  to  the  distant  missions  on  the  Rio  Negro,  whence  it 
would  be  impossible  for  her  to  return.  While  the  canoe  was  passing  up 
the  Atabapo,  she  flung  herself  into  the  stream  and  was  thrown  ashore  at 
the  foot  of  the  rock.    Again  she  escaped  into  the  woods,  but  was  again 


62 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OP    HUMBOLDT. 


caught  brought  back  to  the  rock,  and  most  cruelly  beaten.  She  was 
then  taken  to  the  mission  of  Javita  and  closely  contiued,  but  in  spite  of 
her  wounds  she  took  advantage  of  a  dark  and  stormy  night  to  unfasten 
with  her  teeth  the  cords  which  bound  her  and  again  fled  in  search  of  her 
children.  For  four  days  and  nights  she  wandered  through  a  tracklrss 
forest,  then  inundated  and  swarming  with  venomous  reptiles.  She  swam 
the  swollen  rivers ;  her  flesh  was  torn  with  thorns  and  spiky  leaves ;  her 
only  food  was  the  large  black  ants  which  she  caught ;  but  after  this 
iticvediblo  labor  she  reached  her  children,  only  to  be  torn  away  from 
them  shortly  afterward,  for  the  last  time.  The  missionaries  threw  her 
into  a  cell,  where  she  refused  all  nourishment  in  her  despair,  and  thus 
died.  Humboldt  exclaims,  after  relating  this  story :  "  If  man  scarcely 
leaves  a  trace  of  his  existence  in  this  wilderness,  the  name  of  this  rock, 
an  imperishable  monument  of  nature,  will  remain  as  u  r^emorial  of  tho 
moral  perversity  of  our  age,  of  the  contrast  between  the  virtue  of  the 
savage  and  tho  barbarism  of  civilized  man !" 

On  the  Ist  of  May  they  left  the  river  Temi,  and  advanced  a  short 
distance  up  one  of  its  branches,  the  Tuamini,  to  the  mission  of  Javita, 
tho  commencement  of  tho  portage  of  five  miles  through  the  forests  to 
the  rivulet  of  Pimichin,  which  flows  into  the  Rio  Negro.  They  were 
detained  five  days  by  the  transportation  of  the  canoe.  Twenty-three 
Indians  were  employed  in  dragging  it,  using  tho  branches  of  trees  as 
rollers.  The  travelers  employed  the  time  in  botanizing,  and  in  collecting 
information  concerning  the  Indian  tribes.  When  the  portage  was  per- 
formed— happily  without  injury  to  the  canoe — they  proceeded  on  foot  to 
the  Pimichin,  through  a  forest  swarming  with  venomous  vipers.  On  tho 
6th  of  May  they  embarked  on  the  Pimichin,  and  in  five  hours  afterward 
entered  the  Rio  Negro.  Their  perseverance  was  at  last  rewarded. 
"  We  had  now  been  confined  thirty-six  days  in  a  narrow  boat,  so  un- 
steady that  it  would  have  been  overturned  by  any  person  rising  impru- 
dently from  his  seat,  without  warning  tho  rowers.  We  had  suffered 
severely  from  the  sting  of  insects,  but  we^  had  stood  the  insalubrity  of 
the  climate ;  we  had  passed  >vithout  accident  the  great  number  of  water- 
falls and  bars,  which  impede  the  navigation  of  the  rivers,  and  often  ren- 
der it  more  dangerous  than  long  voyages  by  sea.  After  all  we  had 
endured,  it  may  be  conceived  that  we  felt  no  little  satisfaction  in  having 
reached  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Amazon,  having  passed  the  isthmus 
that  separates  two  great  systems  of  rivers,  and  in  being  sure  of  having 
fiilfilled  the  most  important  object  of  our  journey,  namely,  to  determine 
astronomically  the  course  of  that  arm  of  the  Orinoco  which  fells  into  the 
Rio  Negro,  and  of  which  the  existence  has  been  alternately  proved  and 
denied  during  half  a  century.  In  proportion  as  we  draw  near  to  an 
object  we  have  long  had  in  view,  its  interest  seems  to  augment.  The 
uninhabited  banks  of  the  Cassiquiare,  covered  »nth  forests,  without  me- 
morials of  times  past,  then  occupied  my  imagination,  as  do  now  the 
banks  of  the  Euphrates,  or  the  Oxus,  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  civil- 


"1 


T. 


VOYAGE   ON   THE    CAS81QUIARB. 


68 


itcn.    She  was 
but  in  spite  of 
ght  to  unfasten 
in  search  of  her 
,ugh  a  trackless 
lies.  She  swam 
liky  leaves ;  her 
;  but  after  this 
torn  away  from 
laries  threw  her 
espair,  and  thus 
If  man  scarcely 
me  of  this  rock, 
iT^emorial  of  tho 
he  virtue  of  the 


dvanced  a  short 
lisaion  of  Javita, 
rh  the  forests  to 
gro.    They  were 
B.    Twenty-three 
nches  of  trees  as 
;,  and  in  collectuig 
portage  was  per-     ! 
)ceeded  on  foot  to 
IS  vipers.    On  tho 
e  hours  afterward 
at  last  rewarded, 
irrow  boat,  so  un- 
•Bon  rising  impru- 
We  had  suffered 
the  insalubrity  of 
number  ofwater- 
ers,  and  often  ren- 
After  all  we  had 
isfaction  in  having 
passed  the  isthmus 
ng  sure  of  having 
nely,  to  determine 
which  fells  into  the 
•nately  proved  and 
draw  near  to  an 
to  augment.    The 
jrests,  without  me- 
m,  as  do  now  the 
the  annals  of  civil- 


ized nations.  In  that  interior  part  of  the  New  Continent  one  may  almost 
accustom  one's  self  to  regard  men  as  not  being  essential  to  the  order  of 
nature.  The  earth  is  loaded  with  plants,  and  nothing  impedes  their  free 
development.  An  immense  layer  of  mold  manifests  the  uninterrupted 
action  of  organic  powers.  Crocodiles  and  boas  are  masters  of  the  river ; 
the  jaguar,  the  peccary,  the  dante,  and  the  monkeys  traverse  the  forest 
without  fear  and  without  danger ;  there  they  dwell  as  in  an  ancient  inher- 
itance. This  aspect  of  animated  nature,  in  which  man  is  nothing,  has 
something  in  it  strange  and  B.ad.  Here,  in  a  fertile  country,  adorned 
with  eternal  verdure,  we  seek  in  vain  the  traces  of  the  power  of  man ; 
we  seem  to  be  transported  into  a  world  different  from  that  which  gave 
us  birth.  These  impressions  are  the  more  powerful  in  proportion  as  they 
are  of  long  duration." 

After  a  voyage  of  only  two  days  down  the  rapid  current  of  the  Rio 
Negro,  passing  the  Missions  of  Maroa  and  Davipe,  the  travelers  reached 
San  Carlos,  the  last  Spanish  station,  and  the  termination  of  their  travels 
southward.  Here  there  was  a  small  military  post,  and  the  command- 
ant received  them  with  great  hospitality.  From  San  Carlos  the  mouth 
of  the  Amazon  could  have  been  reached  in  the  same  time  as  that  of  the 
Orinoco,  and  Humboldt  was  for  a  moment  tempted  to  continue  Ids  jour- 
ney. It  was  very  fortunate  that  he  did  not  carry  this  idea  into  effect. 
The  government  of  Brazil  had  heard  of  his  travels,  and  through  a  spirit 
of  jealous  suspicion,  had  given  orders  to  its  agents  to  seize  the  travelers, 
with  their  instruments,  journals,  etc.,  in  case  they  crossed  the  ft-ontier, 
and  forward  them  to  Lisbon.  On  the  10th,  Humboldt  and  Bonpland 
started  on  their  return.  Soto  and  Father  Zea  would  have  preferred  re- 
turning by  the  same  route  they  hod  come,  but  the  former,  anxious  to 
explore  the  Cassiquiare — the  Orinoco  branch  of  the  Rio  Negro— per- 
suaded them  to  acquiesce  in  their  plan.  They  found  the  two  rivers,  at 
their  junction,  nearly  equal  in  breadth ;  the  current  of  the  Cassiquiare, 
however,  was  very  strong — sometimes  eight  miles  an  hour — and  their 
progress  was  slow.  At  one  of  the  missions  on  its  banks  he  obtained 
positive  information  of  the  cannibal  habits  of  the  native  tribes.  The 
priest  informed  him  that  one  of  the  native  chiefs,  a  few  years  before,  had 
carefully  fettened  and  then  eaten  one  of  his  own  wives.  Infanticide  is 
also  very  common,  and  when  an  Indian  woman  bears  twins  one  of  them 
is  instantly  killed,  because  they  consider  it  a  vile  thing  for  a  human  being 
to  bring  forth  more  than  one,  like  an  opossum  or  peccary.  The  travel- 
ers spent  ten  nights  on  the  Cassiquiare,  tormented  with  gnats,  mosquitoes, 
and  ants.  The  passage  became  more  troublesome  in  proportion  as  they 
approached  the  Orinoco.  "  The  luxuriance  of  the  vegetation  increases 
in  a  manner  of  which  it  is  diiScult  even  for  those  acquainted  with  the 
aspect  of  the  forests  between  the  tropics,  to  form  an  idea.  There  is  no 
longer  a  bank :  a  palisade  of  tufted  trees  forms  the  margin  of  the  river. 
You  see  a  canal  twelve  hundred  feet  broad,  bordered  by  two  enormous 
walls,  clothed  with  parasitic  vines  and  foliage.    We  often  tried  to  land. 


k 


|3 

m 


% 


64 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


but  without  8UCCC8S.  Toward  sunset  we  would  Bail  along  for  an  hour 
seeking  to  diHCover,  not  an  opening  (since  none  exists),  but  a  spot  less 
wooded,  where  our  Indians  by  means  of  the  hatchet  and  manual  labor, 
could  clear  space  enough  for  a  resting-place  for  twelve  or  thirteen  per- 
sons. It  was  impossible  to  pass  the  night  in  the  canoe ;  the  mosquitr  es, 
w  hich  tormented  us  during  the  day,  accumulated  toward  evening  beneath 
the  toldo  covered  with  palm-leaves,  which  served  to  shelter  as  tirom  the 
rain.  Our  hands  and  &ces  had  never  before  been  so  much  swelled. 
Father  Zea,  who  had  till  then  boasted  of  having  in  his  missions  of  the 
cataracts  the  largest  and  fiercest  mosquitoes,  at  length  gradually  acknowl- 
edged that  the  sting  of  the  insects  of  the  Cassiquiare  was  the  most  pain- 
ful ho  had  ever  felt.  We  experienced  great  difficulty,  amid  a  thick 
forest,  in  finding  wood  to  make  a  fire,  the  branches  of  the  trees  being 
so  full  of  sap  that  they  would  scarcely  burn.  The  view  of  the  river,  and 
the  hum  of  the  insects,  were  a  little  monotonous ;  but  some  remains  of 
our  natural  cheerfulness  enabled  us  to  find  sources  of  relief  during  our 
wearisome  passage.  We  discovered,  that  by  eating  small  portions  of 
dry  cacao  ground  with  sugar,  and  drinking  a  large  quantity  of  the  river 
water,  we  succeeded  in  appeasing  our  appetite  for  several  hours.  The 
ants  and  the  mosquitoes  troubled  us  more  than  the  humidity  and  the 
want  of  food.  Noth withstanding  the  privations  to  which  we  were  ex- 
posed during  our  excursions  in  the  Cordilleras,  the  navigation  on  the 
Cassiquiare  has  always  appeared  to  as  the  most  painful  part  of  our  tray- 
els  in  America." 


RETURN   TO   CUMANA. 

They  reached  the  Orinoco  on  the  21st  of  May,  and  proceeded  three 
miles  up  the  stream,  to  the  missionary  station  of  Esmeralda.  At  the 
bifurcation  of  the  river  rises  the  granite  mountain  of  Daida,  eight  thou- 
sand feet  high,  which  forms  a  splendid  feature  in  the  landscape.  During 
a  stay  of  two  days  at  Esmeralda,  Humboldt  had  an  opportunity  of  wit- 
nessing the  preparation  of  the  celebrated  cfurare  poison,  which  is  ob- 
tained from  the  juice  and  bark  of  a  particular  plant,  highly  concentrated 
by  boiling  and  filtration.  When  it  comes  in  contact  with  the  blood  it 
is  immediately  fatal,  and  no  remedy  for  it  has  yet  been  discovered ;  bat 
it  may  be  swallowed  not  only  with  safety,  but  with  great  advantage,  in 
cases  of  gastric  derangement.  It  is  prepared  by  a  skillful  Indian,  who 
has  the  title  of  "  poison-master."  While  Humboldt  was  witnessing  the 
process,  the  master,  who  had  a  wounded  finger,  incantioasly  allowed 
some  of  the  poison  to  touch  it.  He  instantly  fell  to  the  ground,  as  if 
stunned,  but  the  poison  was  fortunately  in  a  diluted  state,  and  the  man's 
life  was  saved  by  the  application  of  muriate  oj*  soda.  Humboldt  him- 
self had  also  a  narrow  escape  from  a  similar  &te.  The  poison  ran  out  of 
a  bottle  which  was  badly  stopped,  and  saturated  his  stookmgs.    He  per- 


pires, 

thede 

These! 


THE   CAVER*'    OP   ATARUIPB. 


65 


inc  for  an  hour 
but  a  spot  leas 
1  manual  labor, 
or  thirteen  per- 
the  mosquitf  es, 
evening  beneath 
jlter  us  tirom  the 
»  much  swelled, 
missions  of  the 
aduallyacknowl- 
is  the  most  poin- 
y,  amid  a  thick 
*  the  trees  being 
of  the  river,  and 
Bome  remjuna  of 
relief  during  our 
mall  portions  of 
ntity  of  the  river 
eral  hours.    The 
humidity  and  the 
lich  we  were  ex- 
avigation  on  the 
,  part  of  our  trav- 


l  proceeded  three 
tneralda.    At  the 
Dmda,  eight  thou- 
mdscape.    During 
pportunity  of  wit- 
ison,  which  is  ob- 
ghly  concentrated 
with  the  blood  it 
n  discovered ;  but 
reat  advantage,  in 
killful  Indian,  who 
tras  witnesang  the 
jautiously  allowed 
the  ground,  as  if 
bate,  and  the  man's 
Humboldt  him- 
poison  ran  out  of 
lockings.    He  per- 


ceived the  glutinous  feeling  as  he  was  about  to  put  them  on,  and  an  his 
feet  were  covered  with  sores  from  the  bites  of  insects,  such  an  act  would 
have  been  certain  death.  When  the  travelers  Ictl  Esmeralda,  they  were 
in  a  very  weak  and  languid  condition,  caused  by  the  torments  of  insects, 
bad  food,  and  confinement  in  the  narrow  and  damp  canoe.  After  spend- 
ing another  night  at  the  junction  (or  rather  disjunction),  of  the  Cassi- 
quiare,  they  floated  with  the  current,  the  river  being  free  from  shoals, 
and  in  thirty-iive  hours  reached  the  mission  of  Santa  Barbara,  a  distance 
of  nearly  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles.  On  the  27th,  they  arrived  at  the 
mission  of  San  Fernando  de  Atabapo,  which  they  had  left  more  than  a 
month  before.  They  remained  but  a  day  to  rest,  and  then  floated,  in 
seventeen  hours,  to  the  cataract  of  Maypures,  where  they  were  obliged 
to  Avait  two  days  for  the  passage  of  their  canoe.  Another  day  brought 
them  to  the  cataract  of  Atures.  Hert.  they  landed  before  sunset,  on 
the  eastern  bank  of  the  Orinoco,  in  ordci  to  visit  the  cavern  of  Ata- 
ruipe,  which  is  the  place  of  sepulture  of  an  extinct  nation. 

Humboldt  thus  describes  his  visit  to  this  remarkable  c&ve:  "The 
surrounding  scenery  has  a  grand  and  solemn  character,  which  seems  to 
mark  it  as  a  national  burial-place.  With  difficulty,  and  not  without 
danger  of  being  precipitated  into  the  depths  below,  we  clambered  a  steep 
and  perfectly  bare  granite  rock,  on  whose  smooth  surface  it  would  be 
hardly  possible  to  keep  one's  footing  were  it  not  for  large  crystals  of 
feldspar,  which,  defying  the  action  of  weather,  project  an  inch  or  more 
from  the  mass.  On  gaining  the  summit,  a  wide  prospect  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  astonishes  the  beholder.  From  the  foaming  bed  of 
the  river  rise  hills  richly  crowned  with  woods,  while  beyond  its  western 
bank  the  eye  rests  on  the  boundless  savannah  of  the  Meta.  On  the  hor- 
izon loom  like  threatening  clouds  the  mountains  of  Uniama.  Such  is 
the  distant  view ;  but  immediately  around  all  is  desolate  and  contracted. 
In  the  deep  ravines  of  the  valley  moves  no  living  thing  save  where  the 
vulture  and  the  whirring  goat-sucker  wing  their  lonely  way,  their  heavy 
shadows  gleaming  fitfully  past  the  barren  rock.  The  caldron-shaped 
valley  is  encompassed  by  mountains,  whose  rounded  summits  bear  huge 
granite  bouMers,  measuring  from  forty  to  more  than  fifty  feet  in  diam- 
eter. They  appear  poised  on  only  a  single  point  of  the  surface,  as  if 
the  slightest  diock  of  the  earth  would  hurl  them  down.  The  further 
side  of  this  rocky  valley  is  thickly  wooded.  It  is  in  this  shady  spot  that 
the  cave  of  the  Ataruipe  is  situated ;  properly  speaking,  however,  it  is 
not  a  cave,  but  a  vault  formed  by  a  far  projecting  and  overhanging  cliiT, 
— a  kind  of  bay  hollowed  out  by  the  waters  when  formerly  at  this  high 
level.  This  spot  is  the  grave  of  an  extinct  tribe.  We  counted  about 
six  hundred  well-preserved  skeletons,  placed  in  as  many  baskets,  formed 
of  the  stalks  of  palm-leaves.  These  baskets,  called  by  the  Indians  mo- 
pires,  are  a  kind  of  square  sack  varying  in  size  according  to  the  age  of 
the  deceased.  Even  new-bom  children  have  each  their  own  mapire. 
These  skeletons  are  so  perfect,  that  not  a  rib  or  a  finger  is  wanting. 


66 


LIFK  AND    TRAVELS    OF    HUMBOLDT. 


"Tho  Indians  assured  me  that  the  corpNc  wus  Ituriinl  during  several 
months  in  a  moist  earth,  which  gradually  destroyed  the  tlesii ;  and  that 
after  being  disinterred,  any  particles  of  tlesh  Ntiil  adhering  to  the  bones 
were  H(;ru])ed  off  with  sharp  stones.  This  practice  is  still  continued 
among  many  tribes  of  Guiana.  Besides  these  baskets,  or  raapires,  we 
saw  many  unis  of  half-bunied  clay,  which  appear  to  contain  the  bones  of 
whole  families.  The  largest  of  these  urns  are  upward  of  three  feet  in 
height,  and  nearly  six  feet  in  length,  of  an  elegant  oval  form,  and  green- 
ish color ;  with  handles  shaped  like  crocodiles  and  serpents,  and  the  rims 
bordered  with  flowing  scrolls  and  labyrinthine  figures.  These  ornaments 
are  precisely  similar  to  those  which  cover  the  walls  of  the  Mexican 
palace  at  Mitla.  They  are  found  in  every  clime  and  every  stage  of 
human  culture — among  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  no  less  than  on  the 
shields  of  Otaheitans,  and  other  South  Sea  islanders — in  all  regions 
where  a  rhythmical  repetition  of  regular  forms  delights  the  eye.  The 
causes  of  these  resemblances,  as  I  have  explained  elsewhere,  are  rather 
to  be  referred  to  psychical  conditions,  and  to  the  inner  nature  of  our 
mental  qualifications,  than  as  affording  evidence  ui  favor  of  a  common 
origin  and  the  ancient  intercourse  of  nations. 

"  Our  interpreters  could  give  us  no  certain  information  regarding  the 
age  of  these  vessels;  but  that  of  the  skeletons  did  not  in  general  appear 
to  exceed  a  hundred  years.  There  is  a  legend  among  the  Guareko 
Indians,  that  the  brave  Atures,  when  closely  pursued  by  the  cannibal 
Caribs,  took  refuge  on  the  rocks  of  the  cataracts — a  mournful  place  of 
abode — in  which  this  oppressed  race  perished,  together  with  its  language  1 
Li  the  most  inaccessible  portion  of  the  rapid,  other  graves  of  the  same 
character  are  met  with ;  indeed  it  is  probable  that  the  last  descendants 
of  the  Atures  did  not  become  extinct  until  a  much  more  recent  period. 
There  still  lives,  and  it  is  a  singular  fact,  an  old  parrot  in  Maypures  which 
can  not  be  understood,  because,  as  the  natives  assert,  it  speaks  the  Ian- 
guage  of  the  Atures ! 

'■'■  We  lefl  the  cave  at  night&U,  after  haying  collected,  to  the  extreme 
annoyance  of  our  Indian  guides,  several  skulls  and  the  perfect  skeleton 
of  an  agod  man.  One  of  these  skulls  has  been  delineated  by  Blumen- 
bach  in  his  admirable  craniological  work;  but  the  skeleton,  together 
with  a  large  portion  of  our  natural  history  collections,  especially  the 
entomological,  was  lost  by  shipwreck  off  the  coast  of  Africa  on  the  same 
occasion  when  our  friend  and  former  traveling  companion,  the  young 
Franciscan  monk,  Juan  Gonzalez,  lost  his  life.  As  if  with  a  presentiment 
of  this  painful  loss,  we  turned  from  the  grave  of  a  departed  race  with 
feelings  of  deep  emotion.  It  was  one  of  those  clear  and  delicious  cool 
nights  BO  frequent  beneath  the  tropics.  The  moon  stood  high  in  the 
z'6nith,  encircled  by  a  halo  of  colored  rings,  her  rays  gilding  the  margins 
of  the  mist,  which  in  well  defined  outline  hovered  like  clouds  above  the 
foaming  flood.  Innumerable  insects  poured  tKeir  red  phosphorescent 
light  over  the  herb-covered  surface,  which  glowed  with  living  fire,  as 


THE    OTOMAC    INDIANS. 


67 


1  (Itiriiig  several 
HuhIi  ;  and  that 
iig  to  the  bones 

still  continued  ' 
,  or  luapires,  wo 
un  the  bones  of 

of  three  feet  in 
form,  and  green- 
its,  and  the  rims 
riicsc  ornaments 
of  the  Mexican 

every  stage  of     j 
ess  than  on  the     j 
3 — in  all  regions 
,8  the  eye.    The 
vhere,  arc  rather     j 
ler  nature  of  our 
or  of  a  common 

ion  regarding  the 
1  general  appear 
ng  the  Guareke 

by  the  cannibal 
lournful  place  of 
vith  its  language  I 
aves  of  the  same 

last  descendants 
>re  recent  period. 
I  Maypures  which 
t  speaks  the  Ian- 

id,  to  the  extreme 
e  perfect  skeleton 
lated  by  Blumen- 
keleton,  together 
ins,  especially  the 
ifiica  on  the  same 
)anion,  the  young 
th  a  presentiment 
eparted  race  with 
nd  delicious  cool 
tood  high  in  the 
Idbg  the  margins 
clouds  above  the 
d  phosphorescent 
irith  living  fire,  as 


though  the  starry  canopy  of  heaven  hud  sunk  ufwn  the  grassy  plain. 
Climbing  bignonio,  fragrant  vanillas,  and  guldeu-tlowcred  bunistcria.s, 
adorned  the  entrance  of  the  cave,  while  the  rustling  palm-loaves  waved 
over  the  resting-place  of  the  dead.  Thus  pass  away  the  generations  of 
men ! — thus  perish  the  records  of  the  glory  of  nations !  Yet  when  every 
emanation  of  the  human  mind  has  iaded — when  in  the  storms  of  time 
the  monuments  of  man's  creative  art  are  scattered  to  the  dust — an  ever 
new  life  springs  fi'om  the  bosom  of  the  earth.  Unceashigly  prolific  na- 
ture unfolds  her  germs,  regardless  though  sinful  man,  ever  at  war  with 
himself  tramples  beneath  his  foot  the  ripening  fruit  1" 

After  taking  leave  of  the  good  monk.  Father  Zea,  who  was  ill  and 
remained  at  the  mission,  Humboldt  and  Bonpland  ventured  to  pass  the 
last  half  of  the  cataract  of  Atures  in  the  laden  boat.  They  landed 
several  times  on  the  rocks  wliiuh  connect  the  single  islands  by  abrupt 
dikes ;  sometimes  the  waves  dashed  over  these  dikes,  and  sometimes 
found  an  outlet  through  subterranean  channels.  The  travelers  crept 
into  one  of  the  caverns  under  the  rocks ;  its  damp  walls  were  covered 
with  confervas,  which  they  gathered,  while  overhead  the  torrent  fell  with 
a  fearful  noise.  As  the  Indians  had  left  them  in  the  middle  of  the  rapid 
to  circumnavigate  a  bmall  island  in  the  canoe,  they  were  obliged  to  spend 
some  time  on  the  rock  in  a  violent  storm.  The  night  bad  already  set  in, 
and  their  situation  without  shelter  was  dismal  in  the  extreme.  The  lit- 
tle monkeys,  which  they  had  carried  with  them  for  months  in  wicker 
biiskets,  attracted  the  crocodiles  by  their  cries,  thus  refuting  the  assertion 
of  the  Indians  that  these  animals  are  never  seen  in  the  rapids.  After  a 
long  time  the  canoe  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  island,  having  safely  accom- 
plished the  passage ;  they  re-shipped  their  instruments  and  collections, 
and  were  soon  afloat  on  the  broad  waters  of  the  lower  Orinoco.  On  the 
7th  of  June  they  reached  the  Mission  of  Uruana,  inhabited  by  the  Oto- 
raacs — a  tribe  of  Indians  who  are  noted  for  their  habit  of  eating  dirt. 
They  select  an  unctuous  kind  of  clay,  which  they  make  into  cakes  and 
bake  in  the  fire.  They  are  very  fond  of  this  diet,  which,  during  the 
height  of  the  rainy  season,  constitutes  their  principal  food.  Notwith- 
standing it  contains  little  or  no  nutritive  quality,  these  Indians  are  robust 
and  healthy.  It  is  supposed  that  they  use  the  oil  of  turtles'  eggs,  and 
the  fat  of  the  crocodUe,  in  connection  with  it.  They  are  a  turbulent 
and  passionate  people,  and  strongly  addicted  to  the  use  of  palm-wine  and 
other  intoxicating  drinks.  They  also  throw  themselves  into  a  peculiar 
state  of  intoxication  by  the  use  of  a  powder  called  ntopo,  made  from  the 
seeds  of  a  species  of  acacia,  and  inhaled  through  the  forked  bone  of  a 
bird,  the  extremities  of  which  are  applied  to  the  nostrils.  The  powder  is 
so  stimulating  that  the  smallest  portion  of  it  occasions  violent  sneezing  in 
those  unaccustomed  to  its  use. 

A  further  voyage  of  nine  days,  without  particular  incident,  brought 
the  travelers  to  Angostura,  the  capital  of  Spanish  Guiana,  where  they 
arrived  on  the  16th  of  June.     Humboldt  thus  describes  his  feelings, 


,/ 


./ 


^ 


r" 


^ 


Ir 


68 


LIFB    AND   TRAVBLS   OF    HUMBOLDT. 


on  this  return  to  rivilisation :  "  It  would  bo  tlifticult  for  mo  to  oxprcm 
tlio  Kiitislikctiuti  we  folt  on  landing  at  AngoHturu.  Thu  iiuoiivunienccs 
endured  at  hcu  in  Hinall  vcBflda  are  trivial  in  eompariHon  with  those  that 
arc  Hiifi'ered  under  a  burning  Hky,  surrounded  by  Hwarms  of  nioMquitocH, 
and  lying  Htretched  in  a  canoe,  without  the  poHttibility  of  taking  tho 
least  bodily  exercise.  In  seventy-five  days  we  had  performed  a  passage 
of  five  hundred  leagues — twenty  to  a  degree — on  tho  five  great  rivers, 
Apure,  Oruioco,  Atabaiw,  Kio  Negro,  and  Cossiquiaro  ;  and  in  this  vast 
extent  wo  had  found  but  a  very  small  number  of  inhabited  places.  Com- 
ing from  an  almost  desert  country,  wo  were  struck  with  tho  bustle  of 
the  town,  though  it  contained  only  six  thousand  inhabitants.  Wo 
admired  the  conveniences  which  mdustry  and  commerce  furnish  to  civil- 
ized man.  Humble  dwellings  appeared  to  us  magnificent ;  and  every 
person  with  whom  wo  convei-sed,  seemed  to  be  endowed  with  stiperior 
intelligence.  Long  privations  give  a  value  to  tho  smallest  enjoyments ; 
and  I  can  not  express  the  pleasure  we  felt,  when  we  saw  for  the  first  timo 
wheaten  bread  on  the  governor's  table." 

Soon  after  their  arrival,  they  were  both  attacked  with  fever  on  tho 
same  day,  and  Bonpland's  condition  became  so  serious  that  his  recovery 
was  almost  despaired  of.  This  mistbrtuno  detained  them  at  Angostura 
until  the  10th  of  July,  when  ihey  crossed  the  Orinoco  for  the  last  timo 
and  commenced  their  journey  across  the  llanos  to  Now  Barcelona.  Their 
collections  of  plants  and  geological  specimens  greatly  augmented  their 
baggage,  owing  to  which  circumstance  they  were  obliged  to  travel  very 
slowly.  Tlie  heat  was  excessive,  and  as  there  was  no  wind,  they  found 
the  journey  very  toilsome.  At  the  end  of  tho  third  day  they  reached 
tho  Mission  of  Can,  the  inhabitants  of  which  belonged  to  the  ancient 
Carib  tribe  which  Columbus  found  on  this  coast.  They  are  a  very  tall 
race,  many  of  them  being  six  feet  in  height.  Their  features  are  more 
regular,  with  a  more  intelligent  expression,  than  those  of  the  other  Indian 
tribes.  The  men  are  more  clothed  than  the  women,  who  are  almost 
naked,  the  want  of  clothing  being  much  less  important  than  the  absence 
of  red  paint  on  their  bodies.  They  asked  Humboldt  for  pins,  which  they 
immediately  stuck  into  their  lower  lips.  Leaving  the  mission,  six  more 
days  brought  the  travelers  in  sight  of  the  mountain-chain  of  Cumana 
— ^which  divides  the  llanos  from  the  Caribbean  Sea — rising  like  a  cloud 
in  the  distance.  On  the  23d  of  July  they  reached  New  Barcelona,  ex- 
hausted by  the  hot  sand-winds  of  the  plains.  Bonpland  soon  reguned 
his  health  and  activity,  but  Humboldt  experienced  an  attack  of  ty- 
phus fever,  which  was  then  prevalent,  and  was  unable  to  travel  for  a 
month. 

Anxious  to  reach  Cumana,  in  order  to  avail  themselves  of  the  first 
opportunity  that  might  offer  for  a  passage  to  Vera  Cruz,  they  hired  an 
open  boat,  which  was  employed  in  the  contraband  trade  with  Trinidad, 
and  for  that  reason  imagined  they  had  nothing  to  Tear  from  the  English 
cruisers.    They  shipped  their  instruments,  plants,  and  monkeys,  and  set 


I 


LAST   VISIT  TO  OUMANA. 


69 


»o  to  cxprow 
loiivouienccs 
th  those  that 
'  luoiMiuitoeH, 
•f  taking  tho 
icd  a  pasHage 
great  rivers, 
d  in  this  vast 
places.  Com- 
the  bustle  of 
ibitants.    Wo 
unish  to  civil- 
nt ;  and  every 
with  superior 
t  enjoyments; 
r  the  first  time 

I  fever  on  tho 
\t  his  recovery 
1  at  Angostura 
the  last  time 
rcelona.  Their 
igmented  their 
1  to  travel  very 
,nd,  they  found 
y  they  reached 
to  the  ancient 
are  a  very  tall 
turea  are  more 
he  other  Indian 
vho  are  almost 
lan  the  absence 
(ins,  which  they 
ssion,  six  more 
ain  of  Cumana 
ig  like  a  cloud 
r  Barcelona,  ex- 
soon  regtuned 
attack  of  ty- 
to  travel  for  a 

ves  of  the  first 
8,  they  hired  an 
3  with  Trinidad, 
■om  the  English 
lonkeys,  and  set 


sail ;  but  had  not  gone  for  before  they  came  in  sight  of'  :;:i  nrmod  boat, 
which  hailed  them,  and  fired  at  them  sinuiltuneou.sly.  It  lioloiiged  to  a 
Halifax  privateer,  and  among  the  passengers  was  a  I'ruHsiait  Nuilor,  from 
whom  Humboldt  heard  his  native  language,  for  tho  ilist  tuao  since  his 
departure.  He  protested  against  tho  seiznre,  but  without  efiect;  they 
were  carried  on  board  the  privateer,  and  the  captain  declared  their  boat 
to  be  a  lawful  prize.  At  this  juncture,  an  English  sloop-of-war,  tho 
Ifawk,  which  was  cruising  in  those  seas,  hove  in  sight  and  ordered  tho 
privateer  to  lay  to.  A  midshipman  was  sent  on  board,  who,  on  learning 
the  difliculty,  took  Humboldt  with  him  on  board  tho  sloop.  Tho  cap- 
tain of  the  latter,  Qamier,  who  had  voyaged  with  Vancouver,  and  was  a 
man  of  considerable  intelligence,  had  heard  of  Humboldt's  expedition 
through  the  English  newspapers.  He  introduced  him  to  his  officers, 
some  of  whom  had  accompanied  Lord  Macartney  to  China,  gave  him  his 
own  state-room  for  the  night,  ordered  tho  boat  to  be  given  up,  and  sent 
the  travelers  on  their  way  in  the  morning.  Before  noon  they  saw  the 
fortress  of  Cumana,  strikingly  relieved,  from  its  whitcnesH,  against  the 
dark  curtain  of  the  inland  mountains.  '*Wo  gazed  Aviih  interest  on  tho 
shore,"  says  Humboldt,  "  where  we  first  gathered  plants  in  America,  and 
where,  some  months  later,  M.  Bonpland  had  been  in  such  danger. 
Among  the  cactuses,  that  rise  in  columns  twenty  feet  high,  appear  the 
Indian  huts  of  the  Guaykerias.  Every  part  of  the  landscape  was  familiar 
to  us;  the  forest  of  cactus,  the  scattered  huts,  and  that  enormous  ceiba, 
beneath  which  we  loved  to  bathe  at  the  approach  of  night.  Our  friends 
at  Cumana  came  out  to  meet  us :  men  of  all  castes,  whom  our  frequent 
herborizfitions  had  brought  into  contact  with  us,  expressed  the  greater 
joy  at  sight  of  us,  as  a  report  that  we  had  perished  on  tho  banks  of  the 
Orinoco  had  been  current  for  several  months." 


VISIT   TO   CUBA. 

They  waited  at  Cumana  for  the  arrival  of  the  packet  from  Oomnna 
to  Vera  Cruz ;  but  the  strictness  of  the  English  blockade  was  such  that 
they  were  detained  two  months  and  a  half!  As  no  packet  arrived,  and 
an  American  vessel  was  about  to  leave  New  Barcelona  for  Cuba,  they 
determined  to  take  passage  in  her,  and  on  the  16th  of  November,  afler 
a  stay  of  sixteen  months  in  Venezuela,  bade  a  final  adieu  to  their  friends 
at  Cumana.  They  beheld  with  emotion  the  silver  disc  of  the  full  moon 
illuminating  the  cocoa-trees  on  the  banks  of  the  Manzanares,  for  the  last 
time,  but  the  breeze  was  strong,  and  in  six  hours  they  had  reached  New 
Barcelona.  The  American  vessel  sailed  on  the  evening  of  November 
24th,  and  after  a  very  tempestuous  passage  of  twenty-five  days,  reached 
Havana  on  the  19th  of  December.  Humboldt  mado  astronomical  observ- 
ations during  the  passage,  whenever  it  was  possible,  and  tested  the  ac- 
curacy of  the  position  of  the  ree&  and  islands  which  they  passed.    His 


60 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


approach  to  the  shores  of  Cuba  was  announced  by  the  delicious  aromatio 
odors  which  blew  from  off  the  land.*  The  travelers  were  the  guests  of 
Count  O'Reilly  and  Soflor  Cuesta  during  their  stay  at  Havana,  which 
was  about  three  months.  They  employed  their  time,  until  the  end  of 
February,  in  making  observations  in  and  around  the  city,  and  in  the 
neighboring  plains  of  Guines.  About  the  end  of  February,  having  com- 
pleted the  observations  they  proposed  making  at  the  northern  extremity 
of  the  torrid  zone,  they  were  on  the  point  of  embarking  for  Vera  Cruz, 
mtending  to  cross  Mexico,  sail  to  the  Philippine  IslandH,  and  return  to 
Europe  by  way  of  India  and  Persia,  when  a  rumor  (which  afterward 
proved  false)  concerning  the  French  expedition  of  Captain  Baudin,  in- 
duced them  to  change  their  plans.  It  was  stated  that  this  expedition 
had  departed  from  France,  bound  for  the  coast  of  Chili  and  Peru,  whence 
it  would  sail  for  Australia. 


TRAVELS  AMONG  THE  ANDES. 

The  projects  which  Humboldt  had  fonned  before  leaving  Paris  were 
instantly  revived.  He  determined  to  sail  to  Carthagetia,  cross  the  isth- 
mus to  the  Pacific,  and  await  Baudin's  arrival  in  Lima  or  Valparaiso. 
But  it  was  first  necessary  to  forward  to  Europe  his  largo  collection  of 
objects  of  natural  history.  "  Bonpland  and  I,"  he  says,  "  resolved  in- 
stantly to  divide  our  herbals  into  three  portions,  to  avoid  exposing  to 
the  risks  of  a  long  voyage  the  objects  we  had  obtained  with  so  much 
difficulty  on  the  banks  of  the  Orinoco,  the  Atabapo,  and  the  Rio  Negro. 
We  sent  one  collection  by  way  of  England  to  Germany,  another  by  way 
of  Cadiz  to  France,  and  a  tliird  remained  at  Havana.  We  had  reason 
to  congratulate  ourselves  on  this  foresight:  each  collection  contained 
nearly  the  same  species,  and  no  precautions  were  neglected  to  have  the 
cases,  if  taken  by  English  or  French  vessels,  remitted  to  Sir  Joseph 
Banks,  or  to  the  professors  of  natural  history  at  the  Museum  at  Paris. 
It  happened  fortunately  that  the  manuscripts  which  I  at  first  intended  to 
send  with  the  collection  to  Cadiz  were  not  intrusted  to  our  much 
esteemed  friend  and  fellow-traveler.  Fray  Juan  Gonzalez,  who  had  fol- 
lowed us  to  Havana  with  the  view  of  returning  to  Spain.  He  left  the 
island  of  Cuba  soon  after  us,  but  the  vessel  in  Avhich  he  sailed  foundered 
on  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  the  cargo  and  crew  were  all  lost.  By  this 
event  we  lost  some  of  the  duplicates  of  our  herbals,  and  what  was  more 
important,  all  the  insects  which  M.  Bonpland  had,  with  great  difficulty, 
collected  during  our  voyage  to  the  Orinoco  and  the  Rio  Negro.  By  a 
singular  fatality  we  remained  two  years  in  the  Spanish  colonies  without 
receiving  a  single  letter  from  Europe ;  and  those  which  arrived  in  the 
three  following  years  made  no  mention  of  what  we  had  transmitted. 

•  In  approaching  Cubs  ftom  the  north  in  July,  18i9,  we  were  met  Beveral  miles  from 
ahoro  by  the  same  fragrant  land  wind,  freighted  with  the  balms  of  the  tropica. — B.  T. 


con 


tine: 
on  a 


VOYAOK   TO    CARTHAGENA. 


61 


icious  aromatic 
2  the  guests  of 
Havana,  which 
tttil  the  end  of 
ity,  and  in  the 
•y,  having  com- 
;hem  extremity 

for  Vera  Cruz, 
1,  and  return  to 
?hich  afterward 
itjun  Baudin,  in- 

this  expedition 
id  Peru,  whence 


iving  Paris  were     j 
a,  cross  the  isth-     | 
la  or  Valparjuso. 
rge  collection  of 
rs,  "resolved  in- 
roid  exposing  to 
d  with  BO  much 
1  the  Rio  Negro. 
,  another  by  way 
We  had  reason 
ection  contained 
icted  to  have  the 
id  to  Sir  Joseph 
jduseum  at  Paris, 
first  intended  to 
jd  to  our  much 
Icz,  who  had  fol- 
wn.    He  left  the 
>,  sailed  foundered 
all  lost.    By  this 
id  what  was  more 
1  great  difficulty, 
Lio  Negro.    By  a 
colonies  without 
;h  arrived  in  the 
had  transmitted. 

jet  several  miles  from 
the  tropics. — B.  T. 


The  reader  may  imagine  my  imeasincss  for  the  fate  of  a  journal  which 
contained  astronomical  observations,  and  barometrical  measurements,  of 
which  I  had  not  made  any  copy.  After  having  visited  New  Grenada, 
Peru,  and  Mexico,  and  just  when  I  was  preparing  to  leave  the  New  Con- 
tinent, I  happened,  at  a  public  library  of  Philadelphia,  to  cast  my  eyes 
on  a  scientific  publication,  in  which  I  found  these  words :  *  Arrival  of  M. 
de  Humboldt's  manuscripts  at  his  brother's  house  in  Paris,  by  way  of 
Spain  !*    I  oould  scarcely  suppress  an  exclamation  of  joy." 

They  experienced  some  difficulty  in  obtaining  passage  to  Carthagena, 
but  finally  chartered  a  Spanish  sloop  lying  at  Batabauo,  on  the  southern 
shore  of  the  island,  and  set  sail  on  the  0th  of  March,  1801.  The  cabin 
was  merely  a  hold  for  provisions,  and  they  were  obliged  to  live  on  deck, 
where  the  thermometer  stood  at  90°  in  the  shade.  "  Luckily  these  in- 
conveniences lasted  only  twenty  days,"  says  Humboldt,  with  the  resigna- 
tion of  a  genuine  traveler.  Coasting  along  the  southern  shore,  in  five 
days  they  reached  Trinidad  de  Cuba,  where  they  were  treated  with  much 
distinction  by  the  Governor.  A  grand  party  was  assembled  to  entertain 
them  in  the  evening,  and  an  ecclesiastic,  habited  in  velvet,  notwithstand- 
ing the  heat,  declaimed  a  sonnet,  celebrating  their  voyage  on  the  Ori- 
noco. They  set  sail  the  next  day,  and  after  a  rough  passage  of  sixteen 
days,  again  reached  the  South  American  continent,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Sinu,  which  the  captain  entered  to  shelter  his  frail  vessel  from  the 
storms.  This  was  at  that  time  an  almost  unvisited  region,  and  the  bo- 
tanical zeal  of  the  travelers  led  them  into  a  situation  of  great  danger. 
Having  rowed  ashore  to  collect  plants  by  moonlight  they  would  have 
fallen  into  an  ambuscade  of  naked  men,  armed  and  laden  with  chains — 
— probably  escaped  criminals — if  they  had  not  retreated  cautiously  to 
the  vessel.  On  the  30th  of  March  they  reached  Carthagena,  where, 
after  consultation  with  the  authorities,  they  were  persuaded  to  give  up 
their  intention  of  crossing  the  isthmus  to  Panama,  and  to  choose  instead 
the  route  to  Guayaquil,  by  way  of  Bogota  and  Quito.  This  change  of 
direction  gave  Humboldt  occasion  to  trace  the  map  of  the  Rio  Magda- 
lena,  to  determine  astronomically  the  position  of  eighty  points  situated 
in  the  inland  country  between  Carthagena,  Popayan,  and  the  upper  val- 
ley of  the  Amazon  and  Lima,  to  discover  the  error  in  the  longitude  of 
Quito,  to  collect  several  thousand  new  plants,  and  to  observe,  on  a  vast 
scale,  the  relation  between  the  rocks  of  syenitic  porphyry  and  trachyte 
and  the  active  fire  of  volcanoes. 

The  travelers  remained  six  days  at  Carthagena,  making  preparations 
for  their  journey.  During  this  time,  Humboldt  visited  the  remarkable 
air-volcanoes  of  Turbaco,  lying  in  the  midst  of  palm-groves,  near  the 
Indian  village  of  the  same  name.  These  volcanoes  consist  of  eighteen 
or  twenty  cones  of  gray  mud,  a  few  yards  in  height,  with  miniature 
craters  filled  with  water  at  the  top.  Every  few  minutes  a  strong  jet  or 
exhalation  of  azotic  gas  takes  place,  accompanied  with  a  loud,  snorting 
sound.    In  ascending  the  Magdaleno,  Bonpland  explored  the  rich  botan- 


'V»1ii.Mg'« 


62 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OP   HUMBOLDT. 


V: 

J 


ical  treasures  of  the  shore,  while  Humboldt  drew  a  chart  of  the  river 
district,  in  spite  of  the  oppressive  climate,  and  the  tortures  of  the  mos- 
quitoes. At  the  town  of  Honda,  they  left  the  river,  and  proceeded  on 
mules  to  Bogota,  having  been  thirty-five  days  on  the  journey.  In  the 
latter  place  the  travelers  remained  until  September,  occupying  them- 
selves Avith  botanical  and  geographical  researches,  and  with  excursions 
to  the  many  interesting  spots  in  the  vicinity.  The  most  striking  of 
these  was  the  cascade  of  Tequendama,  which  Humboldt  considers  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world.  "  The  scenery  comprises  every  thing 
which  can  render  a  view  eminently  picturesque :  the  cascade  is  not  the 
highest  in  the  world,  but  there  is  no  other  which  combines  so  great  a 


S^sS*; 


FALLS     OF    TEQUEKDAUA. 

height  with  such  a  mass  of  water.  The  river  is  half  the  breadth  of  the 
Seine,  at  Paris,  and  precipitates  itself,  in  two  bounds,  a  depth  of  five 
hundred  and  seventy  feet.  In  approaching  the  cascade,  one  sees  around 
him  oaks  and  other  trees  which  recall  the  vegetation  of  Europe  ;  then 
all  at  once  he  beholds,  as  from  a  tower,  the  palm,  the  banana,  and  the 
sugar-cane  at  his  feet.  Owing  to  this  circumstance,  the  inhabitants  of 
Bogota  say  that  the  river  of  Tequendama  leaps  at  one  bound  from  a  cold 
to  a  hot  climate.  The  appearance  of  the  tropical  vegetation  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  ravine  is  the  more  interesting  to  them,  as  they  live  on  a  table- 
land where  the  thermometer  often  descends  to  the  freezing-point.  The 
solitude  of  the  place,  the  richness  of  the  vegetation,  and  the  frightful 
roar  of  the  waters,  make  the  foot  of  the  cascade  oT  Tequendama  one  of 
the  wildest  and  most  savage  scenes  among  the  Cordilleras. 


THE    PASS   OF   QUINDIU. 


63 


t  of  the  river 
es  of  the  mo9- 
proceeded  on 
irney.  In  the 
copying  them- 
vith  excursions 
)st  striking  of 
;  considers  one 
sea  every  thing 
jade  is  not  the 
lines  so  great  a 


breadth  of  the 
a  depth  of  five 
one  sees  around 
f  Europe ;  then 
}anana,  and  the 
inhabitants  of 
)und  from  a  cold 
ation  at  the  bot- 
y  live  on  a  table- 
zing-point.    The 
nd  the  frightful 
ucndama  one  of 
aa. 


Leaving  Bogota  toward  the  end  of  September,  Ilumboldt  and  Bon- 
pland  started  on  their  journey  to  Quito,  by  way  of  Popayan.  They 
crossed  the  central  chain  of  the  Andes,  by  the  remarkable  pass  of  Quin- 
diu,  the  highest  point  of  which  is  eleven  thousand  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea.  The  mountain  of  Quindiu  is  covered  with  uninhab- 
ited forests,  and  can  not  be  passed  in  less  than  twelve  days.  Travelers 
are  obliged  to  carry  provisions  for  a  month,  because  it  often  happens 
that  a  sudden  swelling  of  the  mountain  torrents  prevents  them  from 
either  going  backward  or  forward.  The  path  in  many  places  is  a  ravine, 
or  crevasse,  so  narrow  as  barely  to  allow  the  passage  of  the  oxen  which 
carry  the  baggage.  The  light  of  day  can  scarcely  penetrate  to  the  bot- 
tom, and  the  obscurity  is  increased  by  the  thick  vegetation  overhead. 
If  the  traveler  meets  with  any  of  these  laden  animals  in  such  a  place,  ho 
must  either  retrace  his  steps,  or  seize  hold  of  a  stout  root  and  draw  him- 
self up  out  of  their  reach.  The  rich  inhabitants  are  transported  on  the 
backs  of  men,  who  toe  called  cargtterot,  and  follow  this  business  for  a 
livelihood.  Like  horses,  they  are  si  3cted  according  to  their  strength, 
their  surenen  of  fi>ot,  and  their  easy  gdt.  Tliey  cany  a  sort  of  chair, 
strapped  to  the  dioulders,  in  which  the  traveler  sits,  looking  backward, 
and  easily  accomplish  a  journey  of  dght  or  nine  hovra  a  day.  Like 
horses,  also,  their  backs  often  become  sore  under  the  saddle,  and  they 
run  the  same  risk  of  being  abandoned  on  the  road  if  they  fall  sick ;  but 
they  are,  n^svertheless,  cheerful  and  attached  to  their  business,  which  is 
not  looked  upon  as  degrading.  Humboldt  and  Bonpland  would  not 
consent  to  use  this  method  of  transportation,  but  traveled  on  foot,  bare- 
footed, at  the  head  of  their  caravan  of  twelve  oxen,  who  carried  their 
instruments  and  collections.  Ttie  path  was  in  a  tenacious  clayey  soil, 
which  made  walking  very  &tiguing,  added  to  which  the  oxen  have  the 
habit  of  stepping  always  in  the  same  tracks,  so  that  they  gradually  form 
a  succession  of  deep  holes,  which  are  soon  filled  up  with  soft  mud,  in 
which  the  traveler  sinks  to  his  knees.  It  was  in  the  rsuny  season,  and 
they  found  the  journey  exceedingly  laborious  and  fiitiguing.  The  In- 
dians carried  with  them  packages  of  the  leaves  of  a  species  of  banana, 
covered  with  a  resinous  varnish,  which  is  impervious  to  moisture.  With 
these  and  some  poles  cut  in  the  woods  they  constructed  a  tent  every 
night,  so  that  the  travelers  were  always  certain  of  a  dry  lodging-place. 
They  finally  reached  the  valley  of  the  Cauca,  which  they  ascended  ^o 
Popayan,  visited  the  snowy  volcanoes  of  Purace  and  Sotara,  and  con- 
tinued their  journey,  by  way  of  the  town  of  Piasto,  to  Quito,  where  they 
arrived  on  the  6th  of  January,  1802,  nearly  four  months  after  leaving 
Bogota. 

Humboldt  soon  recovered  from  the  hardships  of  the  journey,  in  the 
bracing  and  equable  climate  of  Quito,  and  remained  for  nearly  nine 
months,  employed  in  his  geological  and  botanical  studies ;  his  sense  for 
natural  beauty  and  sublime  landscapes  finding  abundant  food  for  grati- 
fication in  the  splendid  landscapes  of  the  plain  of  Quito,  with  its  views 


64 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    HUMBOLDT. 


of  the  snowy  cones  of  tho  Andes.  These  grand  conical  peaks,  then  su])- 
posed  to  be  the  highest  in  the  world,  tempted  him  to  attempt  the  ascent 
of  their  almost  inaccessible  aides.    He  climbed  to  the  snow-line  of  Coto- 


THE    VOLCANO    OF     C0T0?AZI. 

paxi,  the  highest  volcano  in  the  world,  which,  in  the  year  1738,  threw  up 
a  pillar  of  flame  a  mile  in  height,  and  made  its  bellowings  heard  at  the 
distance  of  five  hundred  miles.  Finding  it  impossible  to  reach  the  sum- 
mit, he  next  tried  the  volcano  of  Pichincho,  lying  nearer  Quito,  and  after 
two  unsuccessful  attempts  reached  the  crater  on  the  26th  of  May.  He 
did  not  find  it  filled  with  snow,  as  Condamine  and  Bouger  had  done 
nearly  seventy  years  before,  but  inflamed  and  preparing  for  an  eruption, 
a  circumstance  which,  on  his  return  to  Quito,  filled  the  inhabitants  with 
alarm.  While  on  the  summit  of  this  volcano,  Humboldt  came  near 
losing  his  life.  While  attempting  to  cross  a  deep  chasm,  the  fragile 
bridge  of  snow  gave  way  under  him,  and  he  was  only  saved  by  the 
presence  of  mind  of  an  Indian,  who  held  him  on  the  brink,  at  the  im- 
minent risk  of  losing  his  own  balance. 

After  having  surmounted  Pichincha,  which  is  about  fifteen  thousand 
four  hundred  feet  above  tho  sea,  and  obtained  an  equal  elevation  on  tho 
side  of  Cotopaxi,  Humboldt  determined  to  make  an  attempt  to  scale 
Chimborazo,  which  was  then  believed  to  be  the  highest  peak  of  the 
Andes.*     Accompanied  by  Bonpland  and  a  young  Spanish  naturalist, 

*  It  has  been  since  owertained  that  Sorata  and  Illimani,  in  Bolivia,  and  tho  peak  of 
Aconcagua,  in  Cliili,  are  higher  than  Chimborazo,  all  oT  tiiem  having  an  altitude  of  over 
twenty-three  thousand  feet. 


^mmm 


1  peaks,  then  sup 
ittempt  the  ascent 
mow-line  of  Coto- 


year  1738,  threw  up  [ 
lowings  heard  at  the 
)le  to  reach  the  sum- 
jarer  Quito,  and  after 
le  26th  of  May.  He 
id  Bouger  had  done 
iring  for  an  eruption, 

the  inhabitants  with 

lumboldt  came  near 

sp  chasm,  the  fragile 

only  saved  by  the 

the  brink,  at  the  im- 

bout  fifteen  thousand 
qual  elevation  on  the 
an  attempt  to  scale 
highest  peak  of  the 
g  Spanish  naturalist, 

Bolivia,  and  tho  peak  of 
having  an  altitude  of  over 


ASCENT   OF    THE    CHIMBORAZO. 


65 


Don  Carlos  de  Montufar,  he  proceeded  to  the  table-land  of  Tapia,  nine 
thousand  tour  hundred  and  thirty-four  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  on  the  22d  of  June  commenced  the  expedition  to  Chimbor- 
azo.  They  followed  the  plain,  slowly  ascending,  to  the  Indian  village 
of  Calpi,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  where  they  halted  for  the  night. 
The  next  morning  they  started  early,  and  began  the  ascent.  They  de- 
termined to  climb  the  mountain  from  the  south-south-eastern  side,  and 
the  Indians  who  acted  as  guides — although  few  of  them  had  ever  reached 
the  limit  of  the  eternal  snow — also  gave  this  route  the  preference.  Tho 
base  of  Chimborazo  consists  of  great  plains,  rising  like  terraces  one 
above  the  other.  They  first  crossed  the  llano  of  Luisa,  and  then,  after 
a  gradual  ascent  of  about  a  mile,  reached  that  of  Sisgun,  twelve  thousand 
four  hundred  and  thiity  feet  above  the  sea.  Here,  on  the  level  floor  of 
the  plain,  Humboldt  M'ished  to  make  a  trigonometrical  measurement,  in 
order  to  ascertain  the  height  of  the  summit,  for  which  purpose  be  had 
brought  along  bis  sextants  and  other  instruments;  but  the  peak  was 
shrouded  in  dense  clouds.  They  then  continued  ascending  to  the  little 
lake  of  Yana-Cocha,  which  b  a  circular  basin  of  not  more  than  one  hundred 
and  thirty  feet  in  diameter.  The  sky  became  more  and  more  obscured, 
but  they  had  occasional  glimpses  of  the  head  of  Chimborazo  through  the 
openings  of  the  clouds.  Much  snow  had  fiillen  during  the  previous  night, 
and  they  were  obliged  to  leave  their  mules  at  this  point,  which  is  con- 
siderably below  the  line  of  perpetual  snow.  The  barometer  showed  that 
they  had  attahied  a  height  of  fourteen  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty 
feet.  A  short  distance  above  Yana-Cocha,  the  grass  began  to  disappear, 
and  they  reached  a  region  of  naked  augite  rocks,  which  rose  in  columns 
to  the  height  of  fifty  or  sixty  feet,  and  at  a  distance  resembled  trees  or 
masts.  Following  these  rocky  pillars  through  the  fields  of  snow,  they 
finally  reached  a  narrow  ridge,  or  comb,  running  directly  toward  the 
summit,  by  which  alone  it  was  possible  to  advance ;  for  the  snow  was  so 
soft  and  yielding  that  they  did  not  dare  to  walk  upon  it. 

The  path  became  more  and  more  steep  and  narrow.  The  guides  all 
left  them,  except  one,  at  the  height  of  sixteen  thousand  five  hundred 
and  twenty-five  feet :  neither  threats  nor  persuasions  would  induce  them 
to  go  further.  They  then  reimuned  alone — ^Humboldt,  Bonpland,  Carlos 
de  Montufar,  and  a  mestizo  from  the  neighboring  village  of  San  Juan. 
With  great  labor  and  perseverance  they  continued  to  ascend,  though 
they  were  enveloped  in  thick  mist.  The  roclyy  comb,  which  the  natives 
appropriately  called  a  "  knife-blade,"  was  in  fnany  places  not  more  than 
eight  or  ten  inches  broad.  On  the  left  was  a  declivity  of  snow,  covered 
with  a  glassy  coating  of  ice,  while  on  the  right  they  looked  into  a  chasm 
a  thousand  feet  deep,  with  immense  masses  of  naked  rock  at  the  bottom. 
Nevertheless,  they  were  obliged  to  incline  their  bodies  to  this  side,  for 
the  snowy  pitch  on  the  left  seemed  even  more  dangerous,  because  there 
was  no  possibility  of  either  arresting  their  descent,  or  of  preventing  them 
from  sinking  deep  in  the  loose  snows.    The  difiiculty  of  ascending  was 

6 


i 


M 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


now  increased  by  the  brittle,  disintegrated  character  of  the  rock.  In 
some  places  they  were  obliged  to  crawl  painfully  on  their  hands  and  feet, 
which,  wounded  by  the  sharp  edges,  marked  their  path  with  their  own 
blood.  They  marched  in  single  file,  carefiiUy  testing  the  stability  of  the 
rock  as  they  proceeded — a  very  necessary  operation,  as  many  of  tho 
masses  were  lying  loose  on  the  brink.  Their  previous  experience  in 
climbing  Pichincha,  Cotopaxi,  and  Antisana  here  proved  to  be  of  great 
service,  besides  teaching  theui  how  best  to  husband  their  fast  diminish- 
ing strength.  As  the  summit  was  almost  constantly  hidden  from  view, 
they  became  very  desirous  of  knowing  how  much  remained  to  be  as- 
cended, and  Humboldt  opened  the  barometer  at  a  pomt  where  the  comb 
was  broad  enough  to  allow  two  persons  to  sit  side  by  side.  The  mercury 
indicated  a  height  of  eighteen  thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty  feet, 
or  about  two  hmidred  feet  higher  than  they  had  ascended,  three  months 
previously,  on  the  cone  of  Antisana,  by  climbing  a  very  similar  ledge. 
They  were  a  little  disappointed  at  finding  themselves  still  so  far  from  the 
point  of  their  ambition.  The  temperature  of  the  air  was  87°,  and  that 
of  the  earth  42°. 

After  another  hour  of  cautious  climbing,  the  rocky  comb  became  less 
steep,  but  the  mist  was  thicker  than  ever.  They  now  began,  one  after 
another,  to  suffer  from  the  extreme  rarefaction  of  the  air.  The  tendency 
to  vomit,  combined  with  vertigo,  was  much  more  disagreeable  than  the 
difficulty  of  breathing.  Their  lips  and  gums  bled  profusely,  and  their 
oyeUds  and  eyeballs  were  injected  with  blood.  The  mestizo  suffered 
more  than  the  others.  They  were  by  no  means  alanned  at  these  symp- 
toms, which  they  had  experienced  during  former  ascents.  Hiunboldt, 
in  fact,  had  once  fallen  senseless  near  the  summit  of  Pichincha,  and  re- 
mained in  that  condition  for  some  time,  mitil  found  by  his  guide.  The 
belts  of  cloud  finally  parted,  although  the  air  was  quite  still,  and  they 
suddenly  saw,  apparently  quite  near  at  hand,  the  great  dome  of  Chimbo- 
razo.  It  was  a  grand  and  solemn  spectacle.  The  hope  of  soon  standing 
apon  its  topmost  pinnacle  invigorated  their  strength  anew.  The  ledge 
became  a  little  broader,  and  they  went  forward  with  more  security  for 
ft  few  minutes,  when  all  at  once  a  chasm,  four  hundred  feet  deep  and  sixty 
feet  broad,  yawned  across  their  path.  They  distinctly  saw  beyond  the 
chasm,  the  same  ledge  going  forward  in  the  same  direction,  but  the  gulf 
was  not  to  be  passed.  They  were  stopped  by  an  insurmountable  obstacle, 
in  full  view  of  their  goal.  It  was  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  they 
were  benumbed  with  cold,  although  the  temperature  was  no  lower  than 
29°.  The  barometer  indicated  a  height  of  nineteen  thousand  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty  feet  above  the  sea,  and,  according  to  Humboldt's  calcu- 
lation, thirteen  hundred  below  the  summit.  This  was  the  highest  point  to 
'  which  any  human  being  had  ever  ascended  on  the  sides  of  the  mount- 
ains. It  has  only  been  surpassed  a  single  time  since  then,  when  Boussin- 
gault  and  Colonel  Hall,  in  December,  1831, 'reached  an  elevation  of 


■MM 


MHhi 


T. 

I"  the  rock.  In 
■  hands  and  feet, 
with  their  own 
3  stability  of  the 
as  many  of  the 
IS  experience  in 
d  to  be  of  great 
At  fast  diminish- 
dden  from  view, 
imained  to  be  as- 
fc  where  the  comb 
ae.  The  mercury  | 
I  and  eighty  feet,  i 
led,  three  months 
ery  similar  ledge.  ■ 
till  BO  far  from  the  1 
was  37°,  and  that 

comb  became  less    j 
V  began,  one  after    i 
tur.  The  tendency    | 
agreeable  than  the    j 
Tofusely,  and  their 
le  mestizo  suffered    i 
ned  at  these  symp-    j 
cents.    Humboldt, 
Pichincha,  and  re- 
)yhis  guide.    The 
nite  still,  and  they 
tt  dome  ofChimbo-    I 
pc  of  soon  standing    j 
anew.     The  ledge    I 
A  more  security  for 
feet  deep  and  sixty 
tly  saw  beyond  the 
(Ction,  but  the  gulf 
nountable  obstacle, 
[afternoon,  and  they 
was  no  lower  than 
thousand  two  hun- 
)  Humboldt's  calcu- 
the  highest  point  to 
rides  of  the  mount- 
then,  when  Boussin- 
led  an  elevation  of 


DESCENT    OF    CHIMBORAZO. 


67 


about  nineteen  thousand  mx  hundred  feet  on  the  side  of  Cliimborazo,  by 
taking  anotlier  path  than  that  which  Uumboldt  had  chosen. 


'■/*4^ 


4^' 


'  CHIUBOBAZO. 

As  the  weather  became  more  and  more  thick  and  unfavorable,  they 
commenced  returning  by  means  of  the  same  narrow  ridge  which  had 
enabled  them  to  ascend.  They  only  halted  long  enough  to  collect  sjwci- 
mcns  of  the  rock,  foreseeing  that  they  would  afterward  in  Europe  fre- 
qently  be  asked  for  "  a  small  piece  of  Chunborazo."  A  violent  storm  of 
hail  overtook  them,  but  fortunately  changed  into  snow  as  they  descended 
into  a  lower  atmosphere.  The  storm  became  so  dense  that  before  they 
reached  the  si)ot  where  their  mules  had  been  left,  the  rocks  were  covered 
to  the  depth  of  several  inches.  The  Indiiui  guides  were  in  great  anxiety 
on  their  accoimt,  but  before  dark  they  reached  the  Indian  village  of  Calpi, 
and  were  hospitably  entertained  by  the  priest.  For  several  days  after- 
ward Chimborazo  stood  clear  against  the  sky,  unobscured  by  a  sjjeck  of 
vapor,  but,  the  chasm  wliich  barred  their  path  seemed  impassable,  and  no 
second  attempt  was  made. 

During  his  residence  in  Quito,  Iliunboldt  received  intelligence  that  the 
expedition  under  Captain  Baudin  had  sailed  to  New  Zealand,  intending 
to  pass  homeward  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  would,  therefore, 
not  touch  Chili  or  Peru.  His  plan  of  visiting  the  Philippine  Islands  and 
India  w.as  frustrated  by  this  news,  but  he  immediately  formed  a  new 
plan  of  travel.     Leaving  Quito  he  followed  the  chain  of  the  Andes,  by 


68 


LIFB  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


way  of  AsHuay,  Cuenca  and  Loxa,  to  the  upper  valley  of  the  Amacon. 
This  journey,  which  was  very  fatiguing  and  hazardous,  was  made  still 
more  difficult  by  the  scientific  instruments  and  the  collections  of  plants 
and  minerals  which  the  travelers  carried  with  them.  On  the  road  to 
Assuay,  Humboldt  found  in  the  plain  of  Cafiar,  nearly  sixteen  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  the  remams  of  the  ancient  road  of  the  Incas,  which  is  sup- 
posed to  have  led  from  Quito  to  Cuzco.  It  is  paved  with  blocks  *>{  por- 
pliyry,  and  appeared  to  be  fully  equal  to  any  of  the  ancient  Roman  high- 
ways. In  Assuay  and  CaAar  he  found  many  other  very  interesting  relics 
of  the  native  Peruvian  dynasty,  but  none  which  gave  such  an  impression 
of  its  power  and  civilization  as  these  roads.  Near  Loxa  Humboldt  visited 
the  cinchona  woods,  which  yield  the  "  Peruvian  bark,"  or  quinine.  "  At 
that  time,"  he  says,  "none  of  this  valuable  product  found  its  way  into 
commerce ;  all  that  was  obtained  was  shipped  at  Payta,  a  port  of  the 
Pacific,  and  conveyed  round  Cape  Horn  to  Cadiz,  for  the  use  of  the 
Spanish  court.  To  procure  the  small  supply  of  eleven  thousand  Spanish 
pounds,  no  less  than  eight  hundred  or  nine  hundred  cinchona-trees  were 
cut  down  every  year.  The  older  and  thicker  stems  are  becoming  more 
and  more  scarce ;  but,  such  is  the  luxuriance  of  growth  that  the  younger 
trees,  which  now  supply  the  demand,  though  measuring  only  six  inches  in 
diameter,  frequently  attwn  the  height  of  from  fifty-three  to  sixty-four 
feet.  This  beautiful  tree,  which  is  adorned  with  leaves  five  inches  long 
and  two  broad,  seems,  when  growing  in  the  thick  woods,  as  if  striving 
to  rise  above  its  neighbors.  The  upper  branches  spread  out,  and  when 
agitated  by  the  wind  the  leaves  have  a  peculiar  reddish  color  and  glist- 
ening appearance  which  is  distinguishable  at  a  great  distance," 

In  descending  to  the  valley  of  the  Amazon,  in  the  province  of  Jaen  de 
Bracamoros,  the  travelers  were  obliged  to  ford  the  Rio  de  Guancabamba 
no  less  than  twenty-seven  times.  The  current  was  so  strong  that  the 
heavily-laden  mules,  eighteen  or  twenty  in  number,  were  in  contmual 
danger  of  being  carried  away ;  and  Humboldt  and  Bonpland  suffered 
the  greatest  suspense  and  anxiety  until  the  dangerous  road  was  passed. 
In  the  lower  part  of  the  same  river,  they  noticed  a  novel  post  for  the 
conveyance  of  letters.  The  official  communications  from  the  Pacific 
coast  to  the  valley  of  the  Amazon  are  dispatched  by  a  swimrmng  courier, 
usually  a  young  Indian,  who  is  at  home  in  the  water.  The  few  letters  of 
which  he  is  the  bearer  he  carefully  wraps  in  a  large  cotton  handkerchief 
which  he  rolls  around  his  head  in  the  form  of  a  turban.  On  arriving  at 
those  parts  of  the  rivers  in  which  there  are  falls  or  rapids,  he  lands  and 
goes  by  a  circuitous  route  through  the  woods.  When  wearied  by  long- 
contmued  swimming,  he  rests  by  throwing  one  arm  on  a  plank  of  light 
wood.  Sometimes  he  takes  a  fiiend  along  to  bear  him  company.  Many 
of  the  wild  Indian  tribes  who  dwell  on  the  shores  of  the  upper  Amazon, 
perform  their  journeys  in  a  similar  manner.  On  one  occasion  Humboldt 
"  saw  the  heads  of  thirty  or  forty  individuals,  men,  women  and  children, 
as  they  floated  down  the  river.    On  approaching  the  basin  of  the  Amazon 


l\ 


LDT. 

Y  of  the  Amazon. 
IB,  was  made  Btill 
Uections  of  plants 
On  the  road  to 
:tecn  thousand  feet 
ncas,  which  is  sup- 
irith  blocks  «  f  por- 
cient  Roman  high- 
y  interesting  relics 
such  an  impression 
i  Humboldt  visited 
'  or  quinine.    "  At 
found  its  way  into 
lyta,  a  port  of  the 
for  the  use  of  the 
a  thousand  Spanish 
jinchona-trees  were 
ae  beconung  more 
th  that  the  younger 
ig  only  MX  inches  in 
-three  to  sixty-four 
ves  five  inches  long 
roods,  as  if  striving 
read  out,  and  when    ] 
dish  color  and  glist- 
distance." 

province  of  Jaen  de 
lio  de  Guancabamba 
so  strong  that  the 
,  were  in  continual 
Bonpland  sufiFered 
lus  road  was  passed, 
novel  post  for  the 
18  from  the  Pacific 
a  Bwimnung  courier, 
The  few  letters  of 
lotton  handkerchief 
lan.    On  arriving  at 
rapids,  he  lands  and 
en  wearied  by  long- 
on  a  plank  of  light 
tn  company.    Many 
the  upper  Amazon, 
occasion  Humboldt 
omen  and  children, 
basin  of  the  Amazon 


DESCENDANTS   OF   THE    IKCAS. 


69 


he  was  delighted  with  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  and  the  luxuriance  of 
the  vegetation.  The  orange-trees  grew  to  the  height  of  sixty  or  seventy 
feet. 

The  travelers  descended  the  River  Chamaya  on  rafts,  to  its  confluence 
with  the  Amazon,  at  the  narrows  of  Rentama.  They  found  the  latter 
river  to  be  fourteen  hundred  feet  in  breadth,  at  this  point.  After  seven- 
teen days  spent  in  the  hot  valley  of  the  Amazon,  they  ascended  the  Andes 
to  the  table-land  of  Caxamarca,  stopping  on  the  way  to  visit  the  famous 
silver  mines  of  Gualgoyoc.  They  took  up  their  temporary  abode  in  tlu! 
vicinity  of  the  mines  in  the  little  mountain  town  of  Micuipampa,  situated 
at  an  elevation  of  twelve  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  and  where,  though 
only  6°  43'  from  the  equator,  water  freezes  within  doors,  at  night,  during 
a  great  part  of  the  year.  This  wilderness,  almost  devoid  of  vegetation, 
is  inhabited  by  three  or  four  thousand  persons,  who  are  supplied  with 
articles  of  food  from  the  warm  valleys,  as  they  themselves  can  grow 
nothing  but  some  kinds  of  cabbage  and  salad.  Here,  as  in  all  the  mining 
towns  of  Peru,  ennui  drives  the  richer  inhabitants,  who,  however,  are 
not  the  best  informed  class,  to  the  dangerous  diversions  of  cards  and 
dice.  The  consequence  is,  that  the  wealth  thus  quickly  won  is  still  more 
quickly  spent.  Here  one  is  continually  reminded  of  the  anecdote  re- 
lated of  one  of  the  soldiers  of  Kzarro's  army,  who  complained  that  he 
had  lost,  in  one  night's  play,  "  a  large  piece  of  the  sun,"  meaning  a  plate 
of  gold  which  he  had  obtained  at  the  plunder  of  the  temple  of  Cuzco. 

Passing  over  a  sucfeession  of  paramos,  or  mountain  deserts,  where 
they  were  severely  bruised  by  hail-storms,  the  travelers  at  last  saw  be- 
neath them  the  fertile  valley  of  Caxamarca,  its  extent  of  one  hundred 
square  miles  watered  by  the  windings  of  a  beautiful  little  river.  In  the 
ancient  town,  the  capital  of  the  unfortunate  Inca  Atahuallpa,  there  are 
many  interesting  remains  of  its  fonuer  rulers.  Some  vestiges  of  the 
Inca's  palace  and  fortress  are  stiU  to  be  seen,  although  most  of  the  orig- 
inal Peruvian  buildings  have  been  torn  down  to  furnish  material  for  the 
dwellings  of  their  conquerors.  In  the  town  jail,  which  is  erected  on  the 
ruins  of  Atahuallpa's  palace,  the  room  is  still  shown  in  which  he  was  con- 
fined until  the  day  of  his  execution  (August  29,  1533),  and  the  natives 
even  point  out  a  mark  on  the  wall,  as  indicating  the  height  which  his 
golden  ransom  reached.  "  Descendants  of  the  Inca,"  says  Humboldt, 
*'  still  dwell  in  Caxamarca,  amid  the  dreary  architectural  ruins  of  de- 
parted splendor.  These  descendants  are  the  family  of  the  Indian  Ca- 
cique, or,  as  he  is  called  in  the  Quichua  language,  the  Curaca  Astorpilca. 
They  live  in  great  poverty,  but  nevertheless  contented,  and  resigned  to 
their  hard  and  unmerited  fete.  Their  descent  from  Atahuallpa,  through 
the  female  line,  has  never  been  a  doubtful  question  in  Caxamarca ;  but 
traces  of  beard  would  seem  to  indicate  some  admixture  of  Spanish  blood. 
The  son  of  the  Cacique  Astorpilca,  an  amiable  and  interesting  youth  of 
seventeen,  conducted  us  over  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  palace.  Though 
living  in  the  utmost  poverty,  his  imagination  was  filled  with  visions  of 


70 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    HUMBOLDT. 


tho  stjbtorrancnn  splendor  and  tho  golden  treasuri's  which,  he  aHsiircd  us, 
lay  hidden  beneath  the  heapn  of  rubbish  over  which  we  were  treading. 
He  told  us  that  one  of  his  ancestors  once  blindfoldcil  the  eyes  of  his  wife, 
and  then,  through  many  intricate  passages  cut  in  tlie  rock,  led  her  down 
into  the  subterranean  gardens  of  the  Inca.  There  ti»e  lady  beheld,  skill- 
fully  imitated  in  tho  purest  gold,  trees  laden  >dth  leaves  and  fruit,  with 
birds  perched  on  their  branches.  Among  other  things  she  saw  Atahuall- 
pa's  golden  sedan-chair,  which  had  been  so  long  searched  for  in  vain,  and 
which  is  alleged  to  have  been  sunk  in  tho  basin  at  the  Baths  of  Pultt^ 
marca.  The  husband  commanded  his  wife  not  to  toucli  any  of  these  en- 
chanted treasures,  reminding  her  that  the  period  fixed  for  the  restoration 
of  tho  empire  of  tho  Incas  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  that  whosoever 
should  touch  any  of  the  treasures  would  perish  the  same  night. 

"The  son  of  Astorpilca  assured  me  that  underground,  a  little  to  the 
right  of  the  spot  on  which  I  then  stood,  there  was  a  large  datura-tree, 
or  guanto,  in  full  flower,  exquisitely  mado  of  gold  wire  and  plates  of 
gold,  and  that  its  branches  overspread  the  Inca's  chair.  The  morbid 
faith  with  which  the  youth  asserted  his  belief  in  this  fabulous  story, 
made  a  profound  and  melancholy  impression  on  me.  These  iUu^ons  are 
cherished  among  the  people  here,  as  affording  them  consolation  amid 
great  privation  and  earthly  suffering.  I  said  to  the  lad,  '  Since  you  and 
your  parents  so  firmly  beUevo  in  the  existence  of  these  gardens,  do  you 
not,  in  your  poverty,  sometimes  feel  a  wish  to  dig  for  the  treasures  that 
lie  so  near  you  ?'  The  young  Peruvian's  answer  was  so  simple  and  so 
expressive  of  the  quiet  resignation  peculiar  to  the  aboriginal  inhabitants 
of  the  country,  that  I  noted  it  down  in  Spanish  in  my  journal.  '  Such  a 
desire,'  said  he,  '  never  comes  to  us.  My  father  says  that  it  would  be 
sinful.  If  we  had  the  golden  branches,  with  all  their  golden  fruits,  our 
white  neighbors  would  hate  us  and  injure  us.  We  have  a  little  field  and 
good  wheat.'  Few  of  my  readers  will,  I  trust,  bo  displeased  that  I  have 
recalled  here  tho  words  of  young  Astorpilca  and  his  golden  dreams." 

After  a  stay  of  five  or  six  days  in  Caxamarca,  the  travelers  started 
for  Truxillo,  on  the  Pacific  coast.  Crossing  the  valley  of  the  Magdalena, 
they  ascended  a  steep  wall  of  rock,  five  thousand  feet  high,  from  the 
summit  of  which  the  guides  assured  them,  they  would  behold  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  But  a  thick  mist  overhung  the  plain,  and  obscured  the  distant 
coast.  They  beheld  only  variously-shaped  masses  of  rock,  now  rising 
like  islands  above  the  waving  sea  of  mist,  and  now  vanishing.  "The 
desire  which  we  feel  to  behold  certain  objects,"  says  Humboldt,  "  is  not 
excited  solely  by  their  grandeur,  their  beauty,  or  their  importance.  In 
proportion  as  the  fulfillment  of  a  wish  may  have  appeared  improbable, 
its  realization  affords  the  greater  pleasure.  The  traveler  enjoys,  in 
imticipation,  the  happy  moment  when  he  shall  first  behold  the  constella- 
tion of  the  Cross,  and  the  Magellanic  clouds  circling  over  the  south 
pole;  when  he  shall  come  in  sight  of  the  sn»w  of  the  Chimborazo,  and 
of  the  column  of  smoke  ascending  from  the  volcano  of  Quito ;  when,  for 


ward 
they 


DT.  I 

ch,  he  asBurcil  us, 
,0  wore  treading. 
.0  eyes  of  his  wife, 
)ck,  led  hor  down 
lady  beheld,  skill-  ^ 
res  and  fruit,  with 
she  saw  Atahuall- 
ed  for  hi  vain,  and 
le  Baths  of  Pulta- 
•h  any  of  these  en- 
for  the  restoration  , 
id  that  whosoever  , 
me  night. 

und,  a  little  to  the 
large  datura-tree, 
wire  and  plates  of 
hwr.    The  morbid 
his  fabulous  story, 
These  illufflons  are 
1  consolation  amid 
ad, '  Since  you  and 
;se  gardens,  do  you 
r  the  treasures  that 
as  so  simple  and  so 
loriginal  inhabitants 
ly  journal.     *  Such  a 
8  that  it  would  be 
,r  golden  fruits,  our 
ave  a  little  field  and 
ispleased  that  I  have 
golden  dreams." 
the  travelers  started 
>y  of  the  Magdalena, 
feet  high,  from  the 
Id  behold  the  Pacific 
obscured  the  distant 
of  rock,  now  riang 
,w  vanishing.    "The 
8  Humboldt,  "is  not 
;heir  importance.    In 
ippeared  improbable, 
J  traveler   enjoys,  in 
behold  the  constella- 
•cluig  over  the  south 
the  Chimborazo,  and 
)  of  Quito ;  when,  for 


FIRST   SIGHT    OF   THE    PAOIFIO. 


71 


the  first  time,  he  shall  gaze  on  a  grove  of  tree-ferns,  or  on  the  wide  ex- 
panse of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  days  on  which  such  wishes  are  fulfilled 
mark  epochs  in  life,  and  create  iudeliblo  imjtressious;  exciting  feelings 
which  require  not  to  be  accounted  for  by  any  process  of  reasoning.  The 
longing  wish  I  felt  to  behold  the  Pacific  from  the  lofty  ridges  of  the 
Andes,  was  mingled  with  recollections  of  the  interest  with  which,  as  a 
boy,  I  had  dwelt  on  the  narrative  of  the  adventurous  expedition  of 
Vasco  Nuiiez  do  Balboa.  Ttiat  happy  man,  whose  track  Pizarro  fol- 
lowed, was  the  first  to  behold,  from  tliu  heights  of  Quarequa,  on  the 
isthmus  of  Panama,  the  eastern  part  of  the  great  "  South  Sea."  The 
reedy  shores  of  the  Caspian,  viewed  from  the  pouit  whence  I  first  be- 
held them,  viz.,  from  the  Delta  formed  by  the  mouths  of  the  Volga, 
cannot  certainly  be  called  picturesque,  yet  the  delight  I  folt  on  first 
beholding  them,  was  enlianced  by  the  recollection  that,  ui  my  very 
earliest  childhood,  I  had  been  taught  to  observe,  on  the  map,  the  form 
of  the  Asiatic  inland  sea.  The  impressions  aroused  within  us  in  early 
childhood,  or  excited  by  the  accidental  circumstances  of  life  frequently, 
in  after  years,  take  a  graver  direction,  and  become  stimulants  to  scien- 
tific labors  and  great  enterprises. 

"  After  passing  over  many  undulations  of  ground,  on  the  rugged 
mount.'xin  ridges,  we  at  length  reached  the  highest  point  of  the  Alto  de 
Guangamarca.  The  sky,  which  had  so  long  been  obscured,  now  sud- 
denly brightened.  A  6harp  south-west  breeze  dispersed  the  vail  of  mist; 
and  the  dark  blue  canopy  of  heaven  was  seen  between  the  narrow  lines 
of  the  liighcst  feathery  clouds.  The  whole  western  declivity  of  the 
Cordilleras,  covered  with  huge  blocks  of  quartz  thirteen  or  fifteen  feet 
long ;  and  the  plains  of  Chala  and  Molinos,  as  far  as  the  sea  coast  near 
Truxillo,  lay  extended  before  our  eyes,  with  a  wonderful  effect  of  ap- 
parent proximity.  We  now,  for  the  first  time,  commanded  a  view  of 
the  Pacific.  We  saw  it  distinctly ;  reflecting  along  the  lino  of  the  coast 
an  immense  mass  of  light,  and  rising  in  immeasurable  expanse  until 
bounded  by  the  clearly  defined  horizon.  The  delight  which  my  com- 
panions, Bonpland  and  Carlos  Montufar,  sliared  with  me  in  viewing  this 
prospect,  caused  us  to  forget  to  open  the  barometer  on  the  Alto  de 
Guangamarca.  According  to  a  calculation  which  we  made  at  a  place 
somewhat  lower  down,  the  point  at  which  we  first  gained  a  view  of 
the  ocean  must  have  been  at  no  greater  an  elevation  than  between 
nine  thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty  and  nine  thousand  six  hun- 
dred feet." 


VISIT   TO    MEXICO,  AND    RETURN    TO    EUROPE. 

After  reaching  Truxillo,  on  the  coast,  the  travelers  proceeded  south- 
ward over  the  barren  and  sandy  tracts  bordering  the  sea,  to  Lima,  where 
they  remained  for  some  time,  in  order  to  observe  the  transit  of  Mercury. 


mUmmm 


78 


I.IPK    AND    TRAVELS    OF   HUMBOLDT. 


Humboldt  was  oapccially  fortunate  in  having  n  dear  day  for  thin  pur- 
poiic,  at  n  timo  when  fof^  arc  prevalent  in  Lima.  At  tho  beginning  of 
January,  1803,  they  took  paHsage  for  Acapulco  in  the  Spanish  frigate 
Atalantn.  On  arriving  at  Guayaquil,  they  discovered  that  tho  volcano 
of  Cotopaxi  had  suddenly  burst  into  violent  eruption,  its  explosions, 
resembling  discharges  of  artillery,  being  distinctly  heard  at  the  former 
place,  which  was  at  least  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant.  The  eruption 
was  first  announced  to  tho  inhabitants  of  Quito  by  tho  sudden  disa])- 
pearanco  of  the  snow  from  the  crater  of  Cotopaxi,  owing  to  the  inoreasu 
of  internal  heat.  They  immediately  made  preparations  to  revisit  thu 
volcano,  but  had  not  proceeded  far  before  they  were  recalled  by  tho 
news  that  the  frigate  was  obliged  to  sot  sail  immediately.  After  a 
voyage  of  thirty  days,  they  arrived  safely  at  Acapulco,  where  they  ro- 
mauied  for  some  weeks  before  commencing  their  journey  to  the  capital. 
Wo  have  very  few  details  of  Humboldt's  personal  experiences  and  ad- 
ventures in  Mexico.  His  work  on  "  New  Spain"  consists  of  an  account 
of  the  political  condition  of  the  country,  its  statistics,  its  physical  geogra- 
phy, its  natural  history  and  geology.  At  the  time  of  its  publication  it 
was  by  far  the  most  complete  and  accurate  description  of  Mexico  which 
had  ever  appeared,  and  in  some  respects  has  not  been  superseded  by 
later  works.  On  reachbg  Acapulco,  Humboldt  had  intended  to  remain 
but  a  few  months  in  Mexico,  and  then  return  to  Europe,  because  bis 
instruments  appeared  to  have  suffered,  and  he  fowid  it  impossible  to 
correct  them.  But  he  was  so  much  pleased  with  the  climate  and  scenery, 
and  so  fascinated  by  the  new  fields  of  investigation  opened  to  him,  that 
it  was  a  year  before  he  was  willing  to  depart. 

Toward  the  close  of  winter,  the  travelers  left  Acapulco,  and  proceed- 
ed, by  way  of  Chilpanzingo  and  Cuemavaca  to  the  capital,  where  they 
occupied  themselves  for  some  time  in  studying  the  interesting  antiquities 
of  the  Aztecs.  Humboldt  was  one  of  the  first  schoUirs  who  called  atten- 
tion to  these  remarkable  relics,  and  a  great  portion  of  his  "  Vuea  dea  Cor- 
dilUrea^^  is  taken  up  with  dissertations  in  regard  to  them.  In  Mexico  he 
succeeded  in  borrowing  astronomical  instruments,  with  which  he  ascer- 
tained the  exact  longitude  of  the  place,  which  had  been  incorrectly  given. 
He  also  visited  the  famous  mines  of  Moran  and  Real  del  Monte,  examined 
the  Desagua,  an  immense  artificial  drain  of  the  valley  of  Mexico,  the 
pynimida  of  Teotihuacan,  and  other  interesting  objects  in  the  vicinity. 
In  July  he  proceeded  northward,  still  accompanied  by  Bonpland,  to  the 
celebrated  mining  town  of  Guanajuato,  where  he  devoted  two  months 
to  geognostic  studies,  especially  to  the  detection  of  ores,  and  then  trav- 
eled southward  through  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Santiago,  to  Yalladolid 
(now  Morelia)  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Michoacan.  He  was  greatly 
charmed  with  the  little  lake  of  Pascuaro,  and  the  scenery  in  its  vicinity, 
which,  he  declared,  would  alone  repay  the  traveler  for  his  voyage  across 
the  ocean.  His  interest  in  the  phenomena  of. volcanoes  led  him  to  the 
plains  of  Jorullo,  near  the  Pacific  Ocean,  where,  in  the  year  1759,  a  Yolca- 


with  I 

ingthe 
Blightljj 
hundr^ 
North 


DT. 


VISIT   TO  THE    UNITED   STATES. 


73 


day  for  thin  pwr- 
th«  beginning  of 

0  Spanish  frigato    { 
that  tho  volcano 

m,  its  explosioas, 
ird  at  the  former 
ant.  The  eruption 
tho  sudden  disap- 
ng  to  tho  inoreasu 
9ns  to  rovittt  the 
e  recalled  by  tho 
ijdiately.    After  a 
CO,  where  they  ro- 
ney  to  the  capital, 
[perionccs  and  ad- 
sists  of  an  account 
ts  physical  geogra- 
f  its  publication  it 

1  of  Mexico  which 
een  superseded  by 
intended  to  remain 
uropc,  because  his 
id  it  impossible  to 
limato  and  scenery, 
pened  to  him,  that 

pulco,  and  proceed- 
japital,  where  they 
.cresting  antiquities 
rs  who  called  atten- 
his  "  Vues  des  Cor- 
lem.    In  Mexico  he 
ith  which  he  ascer- 
!n  incorrectly  given. 
el  Monte,  examined 
,lley  of  Mexico,  the 
sots  in  the  vicinity. 
by  Bonpland,  to  the 
evoted  two  months 
ores,  and  then  trav- 
ktiago,  to  Valladolid 
an.    He  was  greatly 
enery  in  its  vicinity, 
for  his  voyage  across 
noes  led  him  to  the 
ieyearl759,avolcar 


nic  cone,  sixteen  hundred  fcot  high,  was  formed  in  a  single  ni^ht,  on  n  spot 
which  had  previously  been  perfectly  level.  Tho  plain  surrounding  this 
volcano  is  covered  with  several  thousand  diminutive  basaltic  cones,  which 
exhale  a  thick  vapor  through  their  vent-holes  and  communicate  an  insui»- 
portable  heat  to  tho  surrounding  air.  Owing  to  this  cause,  tho  neighbor- 
hood is  very  unhealthy,  but  the  travelers  were  not  deterred  from  threading 
tho  Tartarean  labyrinth,  and  ascending  tho  volcano,  by  climbing  over  tho 
jagged  surfaces  of  the  streams  of  lava.  They  oven  descpn<Ied  a  distance 
of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  into  tho  cone,  which  is  constantly  burning. 
In  January,  1804,  Humboldt  and  Bonpland  took  a  final  leavo  of  tho 
city  of  Mexico,  and  started  on  a  tour  among  the  Cordilleras,  along  tho 
eastern  border  of  the  table-land.  Tho  former  ascertained,  by  trigono- 
metrical mciisuroment,  the  height  of  the  snowy  peaks  of  Popocatapctl 
and  Iztaccihuatl,  and  examined  tho  pyramid  of  Cholula.  He  made  a 
barometrical  survey  of  tho  road  from  Mexico  to  Vera  Cruz,  which,  in  the 
district  between  Poroto  and  Jalapa — then  an  almost  imiK'nctrablo  forest 
of  oak  and  fir-trees — was  thrice  repeated,  enabling  him  to  locate  tho 
route  for  the  fine  post-road  which  has  since  been  constructed.  Tho 
travelers  also  ascended  tho  peak  of  Cofre  do  Perote,  and  measured,  by 
trigonometry,  the  height  of  Orizaba.*  Reaching  Vera  Cruz,  they  were 
fortunate  enough  to  escape  the  yellow-fever,  which  was  then  raging 
there,  and  to  obtain  a  passage  for  Havana  in  a  Spanish  frigate.  At  tho 
latter  place  they  took  possession  of  the  important  collections  which  had 
been  left  there  three  years  previously,  and  after  a  stay  of  nearly  two 
months,  took  passage  for  Philadelphia  in  an  American  vessel.  They  had 
a  violent  storm,  which  lasted  seven  days,  in  tho  Bahama  Channel,  but 
reached  their  destination  safely  after  a  voyage  of  thirty-two  days.  As 
Humboldt  remained  but  six  or  seven  weeks  in  tho  United  States,  devot- 
ing his  time  principally  to  the  study  of  their  political  condition,  he  has 
published  no  account  of  his  visit.  Ho  traveled  to  Washington,  which 
was  then  a  more  village,  but  which,  nevertheless,  he  thought,  would 
grow  into  a  more  imposing  city  than  Mexico.  He  associated  with  tho 
scientific  society  of  Philadelphia,  which  was  at  that  time  deservedly 
celebrated  ;  he  visited  New  York,  and  finally,  in  July,  1804,  sailed  for 
Bordeaux,  where  he  arrived  in  the  foUowing  month,  having  been  absent 
from  Europe  more  than  five  years. 

PUBLICATION   OF   HIS  WORKS. 

This  jonmey,  planned  with  so  much  zeal  and  courage,  prosecnted 
with  so  much  perseverance  and  industry,  and  carried  on  to  so  triumph- 

o  This  mountain  was  ascended  for  the  first  time  by  a  party  of  American  officers  dur- 
ing the  late  war.  They  found,  by  barometrical  measurement,  that  its  height  had  been 
slightly  under-estimated  by  Humboldt,  and  that  it  was,  in  reality,  between  two  and  three 
hundred  fcot  higher  than  Popocatapetl,  hitlierto  considered  the  highest  mountain  on  the 
North  American  Continent  -,      .  ,  ' 


I 


74 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


ant  a  completion,  produced  a  great  sensation  in  the  scientific  world.  In 
the  words  of  Professor  Klencke,  "  It  was  not  only  unexampled  as  the 
execution  of  the  most  magnificent  undertaking  of  a  German  citizen;  it 
was  not  only  perfectly  disinterested,  and  a  sacrifice  made  solely  to  the 
interests  of  science ;  people  admired  not  alone  the  courageous  determin- 
ation, the  persevering  force,  the  industry,  the  intellectual  capacities  and 
inquiring  talent  of  Humboldt's  personality,  but  the  gradually  revealed 
results  of  his  journey  to  the  equinoctial  regions  of  the  new  continent 
became  of  such  universal  importance  in  all  branches  of  hiunan  science 
and  commerce,  in  its  influence  on  a  new  system  of  science  even — nay, 
also  on  the  political  improvements  of  the  country  traversed — that 
Humboldt  was  hailed  in  Europe  as  a  second  Columbus."  Wilhelm  von 
Humboldt  was  at  the  time  residing  in  Rome,  but  his  wife  was  in  Paris 
with  her  children.  A  report  had  reached  Europe  that  the  travelers  had 
fallen  victims  to  the  yellow-fever  previous  to  their  departure  from  Havana, 
and  this  report  was  very  generally  believed.  The  dispatch,  which  brought 
the  intelligence  of  their  arrival  at  Bordeaux  to  the  National  Institute  of 
France,  was  immediately  forwarded  by  the  secretary  to  Madam  von 
Humboldt,  whose  surprise  and  joy  on  meeting  with  her  brother-in-law 
was  equal  to  his  own  on  seeing  her  so  much  sooner  than  he  had  anticipated. 
On  reaching  Paris,  Humboldt  immediately  set  about  arranging  his  col- 
lections, and  preparing  the  materials  he  had  gathered  for  the  publication 
of  a  grand  scientific  work.  He  was  still  assisted  by  his  friend  Bonpland, 
and  by  the  sympathy  and  encouragement  of  all  the  savans  of  the  capital, 
among  whom  were  Cuvier,  Gay-Lussac,  Arago,  and  Laplace. 

In  the  spring  of  1805  he  accompanied  his  sister-in-law  to  Rome,  and 
spent  part  of  the  ensuing  summer  at  Albano,  with  his  brother  Wilhelm. 
Their  society  was  at  that  time  still  fxirther  enriched  by  the  presence  of 
Madame  de  Stael,  Schlegel,  and  Sismondi.  An  anticipated  r  ruption  of 
Vesuvius  led  him  to  Naples,  in  company  with  Gay.Lussac,  and  he  was 
fortunate  in  being  able  to  witness  the  grand  outbreak  of  the  12th  of  Au- 
gust. After  completing  his  observations  he  proceeded  to  Berlin,  and 
did  not  return  to  Paris  until  1807,  when  he  established  himself  there  per- 
manently, to  superintend  the  publication  of  liis  workt.  But  the  fruitg 
of  his  journey  were  so  considerable,  so  varied,  and  entering  into  so  many 
spheres  of  science,  his  studies  and  collections  wore  so  exciting  for  further 
research  and  comparison,  that  he  was  obliged  to  unite  with  other  schol- 
ars, and  allow  them  to  complete,  in  a  more  especial  manner,  the  various 
branches  of  his  undertaking,  "  The  most  eminent  men  of  the  age,"  says 
Klencke,  "  considered  it  an  honor  to  be  engaged  b&  fellow-laborers  in 
this  gigantic  work ;  they  emulated  each  other  in  the  sterling  value  of 
the  contents,  and  the  most  accurate  adaptation  of  the  material  afforded 
them.  Artistd  and  artisans  strove  to  make  the  artistic  contributions — 
the  atlas,  the  landscapes,  the  typographical  execution — as  perfect  and 
brilliant  as  possible."  The  work  was  originally  written  in  French,  and 
portions  of  it  have  not  yet  been  translated  inlo  the  author's  native  Ian- 


)T. 

itific  world.  In 
ixamplcil  as  the 
rman  citizen;  it 
tie  solely  to  the 
igcous  determin- 
il  capacities  and 
radually  revealed 
s  new  continent 
»f  human  science 
ience  even — nay, 

traversed — that 
1."    Wilhelm  von 
wife  was  in  Paris 
the  travelers  had 
tare  from  Havana, 
ch,  which  brought 
tional  Institute  of 
f  to  Madam  von 
[ler  brother-in-law 
lie  had  anticipated, 
arranging  his  col- 
for  the  publication 
s  fxiend  Bonpland, 
)a«3  of  the  capital, 
aplace. 

■law  to  Rome,  and 
I  brother  Wilhelm. 
)y  the  presence  of 
ipated  f  ruption  of 
jussac,  and  he  was 

of  the  12th  of  Au- 
ded  to  Berlin,  and 
I  himself  there  per- 
cb.    But  the  fruits 
Bering  into  so  many 
exciting  for  further 
,e  with  other  schol- 
nanner,  the  various 
en  of  the  age,"  says 
s  fellow-laborers  in 
e  sterling  value  of 
e  material  afforded 
;tlc  contributions — 
on — as  perfect  and 
iten  in  French,  and 

author's  native  lan- 


ADTBNTURES    OP   BONPLAND. 


75 


guage.  It  is  rather  a  series  of  detached  works,  treating  of  special 
branches  of  science,  than  a  single  connected  work,  and  some  idea  of  the 
magnitude  of  the  undertaking  may  be  obtained  from  the  fact  that  at  the 
end  of  forty  years  from  the  publication  of  the  first  portion,  it  was  not 
complete.  Indeed,  it  may  still  be  considered  as  incomi)lete,  although 
incomparably  the  grandest  work  of  the  kuid  which  has  ever  appeared. 
In  1844,  the  cost  of  a  single  copy  of  the  folio  edition  was  about  $2,000, 
and  the  printing,  paper,  and  copper-plates  alone  had  occasioned  an  ex- 
penditure of  $160,000,  much  of  which  was  contributed  by  Humboldt  from 
his  own  private  resources. 

In  the  year  1810  he  visited  Vienna,  where  hr's  brother  Wilhelm  was 
residing  as  Prussian  embassador.  Although  but  four  or  five  volumes  of 
his  work  were  published,  he  had  already  conceived  the  idea  of  making  a 
second  great  journey  to  Central  Asia  aad  Thibet.  Tlie  Russian  minister, 
Roman  zow,  had  proposed  to  him  to  accompany  a  mission  which  was  to 
proceed  through  Independent  Tartary  to  Cashgar,  on  the  western  fron- 
tier of  Thibet,  and  he  at  once  accepted  the  offer.  This  plan,  which  was 
to  be  put  in  execution  in  the  year  1812,  met  with  an  unexpected  obstacle 
in  the  war  between  Russia  and  France.  Although  his  proposed  journey 
was  frustrated  for  the  time,  he  did  not  relinquish  the  hope  of  carrying  it 
out  at  some  future  day ;  and  with  this  view,  after  his  return  to  Paris, 
occupied  himself  for  .some  years  with  the  study  of  the  Persian  language, 
so  that  he  might,  at  hio  own  expense,  proceed  to  India  by  way  of  Tehe- 
ran and  Herat.  He  gained  so  accurate  a  knowledge  of  the  structure  of 
the  Asiatic  mountain  chains  from  literary  sources  that  he  was  able  to  give 
critical  judgments  on  the  explorers  who  had  traveled  to  the  Hiroalaya 
mountains.  The  French  government  had,  in  the  interests  of  science, 
proffered  its  assistance  to  the  execution  of  this  plan,  and  even  the  King 
of  Prussia,  when  he  was  at  Aix-la-Chapelle  in  1818,  granted  Humboldt 
an  annual  sum  of  12,000  thalers  ($8,500)  and  the  expense  of  preparing 
the  expedition  for  the  journey  to  Asia ;  but,  for  some  reason  or  other, 
which  has  not  been  explained,  the  plan  was  never  carried  out. 

In  the  year  1818,  Humboldt  and  Bonpland,  after  sharing  each  other's 
fortunes  for  twenty  years,  separated  forever.  The  latter,  who  had  been 
appointed  superintendent  of  the  gardens  at  Malmaison  by  Napoleon,  be- 
came weary  of  France  after  the  downfall  of  the  empire,  and  accepted  an 
appointment  as  Professor  of  Natural  History  at  Buenos  Ayres.  After 
his  departure  from  Europe  nothing  was  heard  of  him  for  a  long  time,  but 
the  news  carae  at  last  that  he  had  been  seized  by  the  orders  of  Francia, 
the  Dictator  of  Paraguay,  while  visiting  an  Indian  colony  on  the^kores 
of  the  river  Parana.  Francia  was  incensed  at  Bonpland  for  his  efrm-ts  to 
establish  the  tea  culture  within  the  Brazilian  territories,  for  the  tea-plant 
is  peculiar  to  Paraguay,  and  forms  one  of  the  staple  productions  of  the 
country.  Bonpland  was  not  deprived  of  his  personal  liberty,  and  was 
allowed  to  practice  as  a  physician.  When  the  news  of  this  outrage 
reached  Humboldt,  he  was  unremitting  in  his  endeavors  to  enlist  the  in- 


1 


76 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OP  HUMBOLDT. 


flucncc  of  the  governments  of  France  and  Spain  in  Bonpland's  favor ; 
but  Paraguay  was  entirely  beyond  their  reach.  After  a  detention  of  nine 
years,  Bonpland  was  released  and  returned  to  Buenos  Ayres.* 

After  his  visit  to  England  in  1818,  and  his  consultations  with  the  King 
of  Prussia  at  Aix-la-Chapelle,  in  October  and  November  of  the  same 
year,  Humboldt  returned  to  Paris,  where  he  remained  until  1822,  when 
he  again  joined  the  king  at  Verona,  and  accompanied  him  on  his  journey 
to  Venice,  Rome,  and  Naples.  They  also  returned  together  to  Berlin, 
where  Humboldt  spent  some  months  with  his  brother.  Ho  did  not, 
however,  take  up  his  permanent  residence  in  Berlin  until  May,  1827,  con- 
tenting  himself  with  an  annual  visit  to  Paris,  to  superintend  the  progress 
of  liis  great  work.  In  the  autumn  of  the  same  year,  at  the  suggestion  of 
his  brother,  Schlegel,  and  in  fact,  of  all  the  scholars  and  naturalists  of 
Berlin,  he  consented  to  give  a  course  of  public  lectures  on  physical  cos- 
mography. The  character  of  these  lectures  and  the  sensation  they  pro- 
duced, is  thus  described  by  Professor  Klencke : — "  As  he  had  before  done 
in  Paris,  in  the  French  language,  Humboldt  now,  in  his  native  tongue, 
gave  the  rich  fruits  of  his  researches  to  the  public,  in  a  course  of  lectures 
delivered  before  a  select  but  numerous  assemblage.  He  enchanted  his 
hearers  by  the  peculiar  force  of  his  intellectual  clearness,  by  his  eloquence, 
the  genuineness  and  warmth  of  his  feelings,  and  the  inexhaustible  novelty 
of  his  subject.  He  stood  before  them  as  a  convincing,  inspiring  teacher, 
who,  like  an  artist,  displayed  the  wonderful  pictures  of  a  newly-explored 
world  to  their  view.  This  course  of  sixty-one  lectures,  commenced  on 
the  3d  of  November,  and  concluded  on  the  26th  of  April,  1828,  was,  as 
it  were,  the  first  sketch  of  the  *'  Kosmos,"  published  subsequently  as  the 
compact  result  of  his  life  and  studies.  When  some  of  the  first  lectures 
had  been  delivered,  the  press  of  people  from  all  ranks  was  so  great  that 
Humboldt  was  literally  forced  to  give  a  repetition  of  the  first  course, 
adapted  for  a  more  general  public,  nearly  cotemporary  with  the  others, 
in  the  large  hall  of  the  Musical  Academy.  These  popular  lectures  were 
eagerly  visited  by  the  highest  and  most  learned  persons  in  the  capital. 
The  king,  the  royal  family,  the  court,  tho  highest  lords  and  ladies,  at- 
tended regularly  and  listened  with  the  people,  who  showed  their  pride 
in  the  celebrated  man  by  their  enthusiastic  admiration." 


JOURNEY  THROUGH    RUSSIA.    SIBERIA,    AND    TARTART. 

Humboldt  was  urged  to  publish  these  lectures,  and  prepared  to  com- 
ply, but  his  plans  were  unexpectedly  changed.  The  illness  and  death  of 
his  sister-in-law  drew  him  away  from  his  studies  for  a  time,  but  the  sub- 

*  Bonpland  appears  to  have  volontarilj  returned  to  Paraguay  soon  afterward,  and 
to  have  devoted  hiraaelf  to  establishing  plantations.  He  never  relinquished  the  idea  of 
returning  to  Europe,  but  lingered  year  after  jrear,  and  flnalljr  died  there,  quite  recentl/, 
at  a  very  advanced  age. 


were 


■ilpwM***''^'''-^ 


ipland*B  favor; 
tentionof  nine 

res*  I 

with  the  King     j 
r  of  the  same 
itil  1822,  when 
on  his  journey 
ther  to  Berlin, 
Ho  did  not, 
May,  1827,  con- 
tid  the  progress 
le  suggestion  of 
i  naturalists  of 
on  physical  cos- 
sation  they  pro- 
had  before  done 

native  tongue, 
ourse  of  lectures 
e  enchanted  his 
ay  his  eloquence, 
laustible  novelty 
aspiring  teacher, 
t  newly-explored 
,  commenced  on 
ril,  1828,  was,  as 
(sequently  as  the 
;he  first  lectures 
vas  so  great  that 
the  first  course, 
with  the  others, 

ar  lectures  were 
ns  in  the  capital, 
ds  and  ladies,  at- 
)wed  their  pride 


D   TARTART. 

prepared  to  com- 
less  and  death  of 
irae,  but  the  sub- 
soon  afterward,  and 
uquished  the  idea  of 
there,  quite  recently, 


VISIT   TO   THE   URAL   MOUNTAINS. 


77 


ject  which  soon  demanded  all  of  his  attention  was  the  renewal  of  the 
former  plan  of  a  grand  scientific  exploration  of  Central  Asia.  Tlie 
original  plan,  which  was  warmly  encouraged  by  the  governments  of 
France  and  Prustiia,  had  been  entirely  given  up,  after  Humboldt  had 
cherished  it  for  years.  But  in  December,  1827,  the  Emperor  Nicholas 
invited  him  to  make  an  extended  exploration  of  the  mining  districts  of 
the  Ural  mountains,  the  territories  bordering  on  China  and  Tartary,  and 
the  shores  of  the  Caspian  Sea,  at  the  expense  of  the  Russian  govern- 
ment. Humboldt  accepted  the  offer  with  joy,  but  asked  leave  to  post- 
pone the  preparation  for  the  journey  until  he  Iiad  com])leted  the  public 
lectures  on  which  he  was  at  that  time  engaged.  The  emperor  granted 
bis  request,  and  left  him  at  liberty  to  choose  the  localities  he  was  to  ex- 
plore, and  to  prosecute  the  journey  in  such  a  manner  as  would  best 
advance  the  interests  of  science,  always  considering  the  advantages 
which  the  Russian  government  might  draw  from  a  development  of  the 
mining  capabilities  of  the  country,  as  merely  of  secondary  importance. 

In  the  year  1828,  the  preparations  for  the  journey  were  made,  plans 
were  laid,  and  arrangements  entered  into  with  other  naturalists,  whom 
he  was  allowed  to  select  as  his  companions.  He  communicated  with 
Gustav  Rose  and  6.  Ehrenberg,  two  naturalists  living  in  Berlin,  who 
consented  to  accompany  him  on  his  projected  expedition.  Each  of  the 
three  travelers  bad  a  special  branch  of  activity  allotted  to  him.  Hum- 
boldt undertook  the  observations  on  magnetism,  the  results  of  geograph- 
ical astronomy,  and  the  general  preparation  of  the  geognostic  and 
physical  plan  of  north-western  Asia.  6.  Rose  was  to  make  the  chemical 
analyses  of  minerals,  and  keep  the  traveling  diary,  while  the  botanical 
and  zoological  labors  fell  to  Ehrenberg's  share. 

On  the  12th  of  April,  1829,  the  three  travelers  left  Berlin  for  St. 
Petersburg,  where  they  arrived  on  the  1st  of  May.  The  Russian  Min- 
ister of  Finance,  Count  Canorin,  had  made  ample  arrangements  for  their 
comfort  and  security,  and  for  facilitating  their  expedition.  Carriages 
were  prepared,  a  courier  was  selected,  horses  were  engaged  to  be  held 
in  readiness  at  the  stations  along  the  route,  houses  were  everywhere  to 
be  placed  at  their  disposal,  and  military  escorts  provided,  where  prox- 
imity to  the  frontiers  made  their  protection  necessary.  A  Russian 
mining  officer,  Menschenin,  afterward  Inspector  of  Mines,  was  appointed 
as  Humboldt's  constant  companion,  to  give  him  every  information  in 
regard  to  ways  and  localities,  and  to  levy  the  necessary  assistance  from 
the  Russian  authorities. 

Thus  prepared,  and  furnished  with  all  the  comforts  of  Russian  hos- 
pitality, they  left  St.  Petersburg  on  the  20th  of  May,  and  proceeded 
rapidly  over  the  broad  highway  to  Moscow.  After  a  few  days  spent 
here  in  making  barometrical  observations,  and  in  examining  the  geolog- 
ical productions  of  the  country,  they  continued  their  journey  toward 
the  Ural,  advancing  more  slowly  over  the  indifferent  roads  of  the  marshy 
lands  that  occupy  a  portion  of  that  level  region.    They  arrived  at  Nish- 


78 


LIFE  AND  TBAYELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


ni  (Lower)  Novgorod,  on  the  Volga,  by  the  last  of  May.  Here  they 
met  with  Count  Poller,  the  proprietor  of  some  mining  estates,  in  the 
Ural,  who  was  traveling  thither  Avith  a  few  scientific  gentlemen,  and 
who  accordingly  accompanied  them  into  that  region.  They  embarked 
on  the  Volga  and  reached  Kasan  on  the  4th  of  June.  Kasan  was  for 
three  centuries  the  seat  of  an  independent  Tartar  Khanate  which  was 
overturned  in  1552.  The  suburbs  of  the  town  were  still  inhabited  by 
Tartars,  whose  MedachexU  or  temples  were  visited  by  the  travelers.  On 
entering  the  sacred  edifices  the  guides  took  off  their  slippers,  although 
they  permitted  the  visitors  to  wear  their  boots.  From  Kasan  they 
made  an  excursion  down  the  Volga  to  the  interesting  ruins  of  Bulgar, 
the  capital  of  the  ancient  Bulgaria,  which  flourished  from  the  seventh  to 
the  thirteenth  century.  As  they  approached  the  modern  village,  the 
whole  population  came  forth  to  meet  them  in  groups  of  men,  women, 
and  children,  and  the  oldest  inhabitants,  who  led  the  groups,  offered 
bread  and  salt  to  Humboldt,  in  token  of  reverence,  according  to  the 
liussian  custom.  Tlie  walls  of  a  few  edifices,  two  towers,  and  several 
tombstones  bearing  monumental  inscriptions  in  Turkish,  Arabic,  and 
Armenian,  which  mostly  dated  from  the  year  623  of  the  Hcdjira,  or, 
A.  D.  1226,  were  the  principal  remains  which  the  travelers  found  of  the 
ancient  capital.  Many  silver  and  copper  coins,  copper  rings,  and  trink- 
ets, were  still  found  among  the  rubbish.  The  tombs  of  Tartar  saints 
were  still  objects  of  pilgrimages  for  the  faithful.  A  Tartar  Mollah  was 
performing  his  devotions  among  the  ruins,  by  repeating  a  form  of  prayer 
and  frequently  bowing  his  body,  without'allowing  the  presence  of  the 
travelers  to  disturb  him.  As  the  ruins  were  some  distance  apart,  he 
availed  himself  of  a  seat  in  their  carriage,  and  rode  with  them  to  all  the 
ruins,  always  arranging  it  so  that  he  had  performed  his  devotional  exer- 
cises  before  they  were  through  with  their  examinations.  At  Kasan  they 
witnessed  a  rural  festival  of  the  Tartars,  called  the  Saban,  which  is  cele- 
brated annually  after  seed-time.  The  sports  consisted  in  wrestling,  run- 
ning, and  horse-racing. 

Leaving  Kasan  on  the  9th,  they  passed  tbrongh  a  district  inhabited 
by  the  Wotjaks,  a  branch  of  the  Finnish  femily,  who  had  embraced  the 
Christian  religion,  aud  adopted  the  Russian  knguagc,  Mhile  they  still 
retained  their  primitive  costumes.  The  women  wore  high  caps,  made 
of  birch-bark  covered  with  blue  cloth,  and  hung  with  silver  coins  and 
red  fringes.  They  spent  the  12tli  at  Wercbne  (Upper)  Mulinsk,  on 
Count  Poller's  estate,  where  he  entertained  tliem  hospitably,  after  which 
he  accompanied  them  on  their  expedition  beyond  Jekatharinenburg. 
When  they  came  to  the  valleys  in  the  outskirts  of  the  Ural,  on  the  14th 
of  June,  they  were  delighted  with  the  sudden  appearance  of  spring. 
Three  weeks  before,  they  had  left  the  Neva  in  ice,  and  now  all  the 
"plants  were  in  full  bloom,  covering  the  ground  with  a  profusion  of  rare 
and  beautiful  flowers.  On  the  16th,  they  anived  at  Jekatharinenburg, 
mtuated  among  the  mountains  on  the  Asiatic  Side  of  the  Ural  ridge,  in 


WISSOKAJA    OORA. 


79 


ly.  Here  they 
;  estatet.  in  the 
gentlemen,  and 
They  embarked 
Kasan  was  for 
nate  which  was 
till  inhabited  by 
le  travelers.  On 
lippers,  although 
om  Kasan  they 
ruins  of  Bulgar, 
n  the  seventh  to 
.dern  village,  the 
,  of  men,  women, 
!  groups,  offered 
according  to  the 
ivers,  and  several 
ish,  Arabic,  and 
:  the  Hedjira,  or, 
lers  found  of  the 

•  rmgs,  and  truik- 
s  of  Tartar  saints 
Tartar  Mollah  was 
g  a  form  of  prayer 
lie  presence  of  the 
distance  apart,  he 
th  them  to  all  the 
s  devotional  exer- 
8.  At  Kasan  they 
ban,  which  is  cele- 

in  wrestling,  run- 

li  district  inhabited 
had  embraced  the 
ge,  while  they  still 
e  high  caps,  made 
th  silver  coins  and 
pper)  Mulinsk,  on 
pitably,  after  which 

Jekatharinenburg. 
B  Ural,  on  the  14th 
tearance  of  spring. 
e,  and  now  all  the 
a  profusion  of  rare 

Jekatharinenburg, 

•  the  Ural  ridge,  in 


one  of  the  richest  mineral  regions  of  the  continent.  They  visited  Scha- 
browski,  Bercsowsk,  and  other  gold  mines  in  the  vicinity,  the  rich  copper 
mines  of  Gumeschewskoi,  and  then  extended  their  excursions  northward 
as  far  as  Nishni  Tagilsk,  into  a  district  abounding  in  gold,  platina,  cop- 
per, iron,  and  precious  stones.  Nishni  Tagilsk,  with  a  surrounding 
tract  of  eight  thousand  square  versts,  is  a  possession  of  the  Demidoff 
family,  and  is  scarcely  surpassed  by  any  place  in  the  world  in  the  rich- 
ness and  variety  of  mineral  productions  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Near 
the  town  is  the  celebrated  mountain  of  magnetic  iron,  called  Wissokaja 
Gora,  whose  excellent  ores  supply  numerous  furnaces,  while  copper  of  a 
superior  quality  is  found  in  large  quantities,  and  rich  fields  of  gold  and 
platina  abound,  the  latter  far  surpassing  in  richness  all  others  in  the 
Ural  mountains.  Near  the  imperial  iron  works  of  Kuschwhisk,  they 
visited  another  remarkable  mountain  of  magnetic  iron,  called  Gura  Bta- 
godat  (the  Blesged  Mountain),  which  was  discovered  to  the  early  Rus- 
sian settlers  by  a  Wofftil  named  Tschiwipkin.  For  this  act  he  was 
burned  alive  upon  the  mountain  by  his  countrymen,  the  primitive  inhab- 
itants. A  monument  stands  on  the  summit,  erected  to  his  memory  by 
the  Russians. 

Humboldt's  attention  had  already  been  called  to  the  remarkable 
analogy  in  the  grouping  of  minerals  in  various  parts  of  the  world,  and 
now  he  was  struck  with  the  resemblance  of  this  region  to  the  gold  and 
platina  districts  of  Brazil,  which  also  produce  diamonds.  This  idea  of 
the  association  of  minerals  awakened  in  him  the  strongest  hope  of  dis- 
covering diamonds  in  the  Ural  mountains,  and  On  every  occasion  of 
gold  and  platina  washing,  the  sand  was  microscopically  examined  in  this 
hope.  In  this  manner  they  found  many  minerals  heretofore  unknown 
in  the  Ural  mountains,  among  them  crystals  which  in  Brazil  are  found 
with  diamonds,  although  they  were  not  successful  in  the  main  object  of 
their  search.  Humboldt's  theory  was  confirmed,  however,  during  his 
sojourn  in  this  region,  for  diamonds  were  found  by  Count  Poller,  in 
the  vicinity  of  Bittersk,  a  tew  days  afler  he  parted  from  him,  and  in 
a  little  while  others  wore  discovered  in  various  places  in  the  northern 
Ural. 

On  the  Ist  of  July  they  left  Kuschwinsk,  and  proceeded  by  the  iron 
works  of  Nishni  Turinsk  to  the  copper  mines  of  Bogoslowsk.  Here  the 
mountains  were  higher,  and  the  side-branches,  extitnding  at  right  angles 
from  the  main  ridge,  spread  over  a  wider  extent  of  territory.  The  forests 
Were  dense,  and  the  indifTorent  roads,  which  render  this  region  compara- 
tively inaccessible,  greatly  luudered  them  in  their  investigations.  The 
country  was  rich  in  plants  and  flowers,  as  well  as  in  minerals,  and  the 
luxuriant  growth  of  juicy  vegetation  produced  myriads  of  stinging  gnats 
and  mosquitoes,  which  greatly  annoyed  the  travelers.  The  inhabitants 
protect  themselves  from  tlicse  pests  by  a  net  sprinkled  with  birch-bark 
tea,  or  by  the  smoke  of  decayed  wood,  or  fungi,  which  they  carry  ignited 
in  small  earthen  vessels  upon  their  backs. 


•aMWHMrMMMaiMnMMHM 


80 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUUBOLDT. 


The  Bceneiy  around  Bogoslowsk  was  magnificent.  Over  the  broad 
plnm,  lying  eastward,  the  view  was  almost  unbounded ;  while  oii  the  west 
and  north  the  mountains  rose  in  majestic  grandeur.  The  principal  range 
was  forty  or  fifty  miles  distant,  and  its  snow-covered  peaks  stood  out  in 
bold  relief  above  the  dork  forests  of  pine  and  fir  which  covered  the  inter- 
vening  heights.  They  visited  the  mines  of  copper,  iron,  and  gold  in  this 
district,  and  returned  by  Mursinsk,  rich  in  precious  stones,  to  Jekathar- 
inenberg,  where  they  arrived  on  the  11th,  after  an  absence  of  sixteen 
days.  In  a  week  they  had  prepared  and  arranged  the  mass  of  materials 
they  had  collected,  when  they  set  out  for  Tobolsk,  and  reached  that  city 
on  the  2l8t. 

Tobolsk  had  been  the  eastern  limit  of  the  expedition  in  Humboldt's 
original  plan ;  but  the  ease  and  promptness  with  which  they  had  accom- 
plished  the  journey  in  the  northern  Ural,  induced  him  to  extend  the 
journey  to  the  Altai,  that  he  might  become  acquainted  with  these  im- 
portant mountains  by  personal  observation.  The  plan  being  approved  by 
the  authorities,  they  completed  their  arrangements,  and  in  two  days 
were  again  upon  the  road.  The  intervening  region  consists  mostly  of 
steppes,  which,  although  traversed  by  a  few  roads,  upon  which  villages 
arc  here  and  there  establbhed  at  the  stations,  are  generally  barren  and 
uncultivated.  They  ascended  the  Irstysch  to  Tatmytakaja,  then  crossed 
over  in  a  south-easterly  direction  to  the  waters  of  the  Om,  and  contin- 
ued their  route  eastwardly,  near  its  banks,  across  the  fearful  steppe  of 
Barabinski.  This  great  steppe,  which  embraces  the  whole  space  between 
the  rivers  Irstysch  and  Obi,  is  not  dry  and  arid,  as  the  steppes  are  usually 
supposed  to  be,  but  well  supplied  with  lakes,  marshes,  and  flowing 
streams.  Many  of  the  lakes  conttun  salt  water,  and  the  earth  itself  is 
in  some  places  impregnated  with  salt.  Here  and  there  a  spot  of  rich 
vegetation  appears,  and  occasionally  a  few  poplars  or  birch-trees  relieve 
the  monotonous  level.  Over  the  marshy  ground  the  road  was  frequently 
bridged  in  long  courses,  but  as  these  improvements  were  in  a  bad  con- 
dition, the  traveling  upon  them  was  very  tedious.  Another  annoyance 
was  even  less  endurable  than  this ;  they,  were  attacked  by  swarms  of 
titinging  gnats  and  flies,  which  preyed  upon  them  unceasingly.  This 
vexmg  pest,  with  the  jolting  of  the  carriage,  occasioned  a  serious  loss  to 
Humboldt  in  the  breaking  of  a  large  barometer,  though  its  place  was 
partially  supplied  by  a  lighter  one.  At  Kainsk,  in  the  middle  of  the 
steppe,  they  received  the  alarming  intelligence  that  the  Siberian  pesti- 
lence was  raging  in  all  the  villages  before  them  on  the  way  to  Tomsk. 
This  terrible  disease  prevails  at  first  among  the  cattle,  and  from  them 
extends  to  human  beings,  especially  upon  the  plains,  never  among  the 
mountauis.  The  travelers  held  a  consultation,  and  as  it  was  impractica- 
j)le  to  reach  the  Altai  region  by  any  other  route,  if  they  should  retrace 
their  steps,  at  least  within  the  limits  of  their  plan,  they  resolved,  at  all 
hazards,  to  continue  their  journey,  with  the  precaution — as  the  disease  was 
represented  to  be  contagious — ^to  avoid  all  contact  with  the  peasants 


ores, 

iron  1 

Augusl 

Irtysch 

opporti 

sacks, 

place, 

anowsk 

the  Alt 

of  thes( 

the  St( 

closing 


THE   FRONTIERS   OF   CHINA. 


81 


vur  the  broad 
lie  on  the  west 
priucipal  range 
(8  stood  out  in 
k-ercd  the  mter- 
ind  gold  in  this 
^8,  to  Jekathar- 
ence  of  sixteen 
ass  of  materials 
iached  that  city 

1  in  Humboldt's 
;hey  had  accom- 
to  extend  the 
with  these  im- 
ing  approved  by 
id  in  two  days 
insists  mostly  of 
n  which  villages 
rally  barren  and 
aja,  then  crossed 
Om,  and  contin- 
tearful  steppe  of 
►le  space  between 
teppes  are  usually 
les,  and  flowing 
he  earth  itself  is 
re  a  spot  of  rich 
)irch-trees  relieve 
ad  was  frequently 
rere  in  a  bad  con- 
nother  annoyance 
red  by  swarms  of 
mceawngly.    This 
d  a  serious  loss  to 
agh  its  place  was 
he  middle  of  the 
the  Siberian  pesti- 
,he  way  to  Tomsk, 
le,  and  from  them 
never  among  the 
it  was  impractica- 
hey  should  retrace 
ley  resolved,  at  all 
-as  the  disease  was 
with  the  peasants 


among  whom  it  prevailed.  There  were  many  deaths  in  the  villages 
through  which  they  passed ;  in  Karganskaja  six  persons  had  died  on  the 
day  before  their  arrival,  and  in  the  same  village  five  hundred  horses  had 
olready  perished,  so  that  the  expedition  had  difficulty  in  procuring  the 
number  requisite  for  their  conveyance.  In  every  village  a  small  hospital 
was  established ;  and  on  the  outskirts  of  each,  fires  of  dry  turf  and 
materials  affording  abimdance  of  smoke,  were  kindled  to  purify  the 
atmosphere.  As  they  approached  the  Obi,  and  left  the  steppe  behind 
them,  all  traces  of  the  disease  disappeared.  Crossbg  the  Obi  at  Bergsk, 
they  proceeded  in  a  southerly  direction,  and  reached  Barnaul  on  the 
morning  of  August  2d,  having  traveled  one  thousand  miles  since  leaving 
Tobolsk. 

The  city  of  Barnaul,  on  the  Obi,  although  on  the  borders  of  the 
steppe,  is  the  central  point  of  the  Altaian  mining  interests,  being  the  seat 
of  the  controlling  authorities  of  the  whole  region,  and  the  location  of  the 
principal  smelting  furnaces.  The  most  important  product  of  the  Altm 
is  silver,  of  which  the  yield  is  greater  than  that  of  any  other  part  of  the 
continent.  For  more  than  a  half  century  before  Humboldt's  visit,  the 
average  annual  product  was  nearly  seventy  thousand  marks,  or  forty 
thousand  pounds.  In  the  same  time  the  mines  yielded  four  hundred  and 
eighty  thousand  pounds  of  copper,  and  about  eight  hundred  thousand 
pounds  of  lead  annually.  Although  the  quantity  of  silver  produced  by 
the  Altai  is  so  great,  the  ore  from  which  it  is  obtuned  is  very  poor, 
yielding  an  average  of  only  four  per  cent.,  while  the  average  product  of 
the  Mexican  ores  ranges  from  eighteen  to  twenty-five  per  cent. 

Leaving  Barnaul  on  the  4th,  Humboldt  and  his  companions  proceed- 
ed to  carry  out  the  plan  he  had  projected  of  an  extensive  tour  through 
the  mining  regions.  Going  southward  they  crossed  the  steppe  of  Pla- 
towskaja  to  the  upper  districts  of  the  Obi,  where  they  visited  the  rich 
silver  mines  of  Smejewskaja  Gora,  of  Riddersk  and  its  vicinity,  and 
the  extensive  porphyry  works  of  Kolyvansk.  The  Smejewskaja  Gora, 
or  Serpent  Mountain — so  called  from  the  great  number  of  serpents 
foand  upon  it,  when  it  was  first  discovered — consists  almost  entirely  of 
ores,  of  which  the  most  important  is  silver.  Copper,  lead,  zinc,  and 
iron  are  also  produced  in  considerable  quantities.  On  the  13th  of 
August,  they  had  advanced  as  fiir  as  Ustkamenogorsk,  a  fortress  on  the 
Irtysch,  toward  the  frontiers  of  Chinese  Mongolia.  Here  they  had  an 
opportunity  of  witnessing  the  admirable  military  exercises  of  the  Cos- 
sacks, who  were  stationed  at  this  post.  Leaving  their  baggage  at  this 
place,  they  continued  their  tour  to  the  gold  and  silver  mines  of  Syr- 
anowsk,  on  the  south-western  side  of  the  Cholsun  and  Katunja  ranges  of 
the  Altai  mountains.  Beyond  Syranowsk  the  travelers  had  distant  views 
of  these  mountains.  Thirty  miles  distant  rose  the  numerous  peaks  of 
the  Stolbrowucha,  already  covered  with  snow,  and  further  eastward, 
closing  the  long  vista  of  the  valley  of  Beresowska,  stood  the  untrodden 
summit  of  Bjeluoha,  the  loftiest  peak  of  the  Altai.    The  view  of  these 


..i 


82 


LIFB  AND  TRAYBLS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


snow-covered  mountains  awakened  in  Humboldt  and  his  companions  a 
desire  to  penetrate  further  into  that  interestiiig  region,  but  the  lateness 
of  tlio  season  and  the  plans  already  laid,  warned  them  to  desist. 

They  were  now  so  near  the  boundary  of  China,  that  Humboldt  wished 
to  pass  over  to  Bat),  or  Khonimailakhii,  the  nearest  Chinese-Mongol- 
ian post,  situated  on  the  Irtysch,  below  Lake  Saissan.  He  had  made 
known  his  wishes  at  Buchtarminsk,  the  upper  Russian  post  on  the  river, 
and  a  Cossack  had  been  sunt  thither  to  announce  his  visit.  "When  they 
arrived,  they  found  two  tents  prepared  for  them,  which  they  occupied 
during  their  stay.  There  were  two  stations  at  this  post,  one  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  river,  occupied  by  Mongolian  troops,  the  other  on  the  right, 
by  Chinese ;  both  commanded  by  Chinese  officers.  They  lived  in  the 
small  round  tents,  or  Jurten,  of  the  Khirgises,  which  were  irregularly 
disposed.  Humboldt  first  visited  the  commander  of  the  Chinese,  who 
camo  out  before  his  tent  to  meet  them,  followed  by  two  attendants.  He 
was  a  young  man,  tall  and  thin,  wore  a  blue  silk  coat  which  reached  to 
the  ankles,  and  carried  several  peacock  feathers  in  his  cap,  denoting  hia 
rank.  After  a  ceremonious  introduction,  questions  and  answers  were 
exchanged  through  the  interpreters,  by  which  they  learned  that  he  was 
directly  from  Pekin,  that  he  had  made  the  journey  in  four  months  on 
horseback,  and  that  the  commanders  were  changed  every  three  years. 
After  a  similar  visit  tc  the  commanding  officer  of  the  Mongolians,  Avho 
was  less  communicative,  they  visited  the  temple,  a  small,  square,  wooden 
building,  containing  an  altar  opposite  the  door,  and  the  picture  of  an 
idol  of  the  Buddhistic  worship  hanging  upon  the  wall  above  the  altar. 
A  wall  stood  between  the  door  and  the  river,  near  which  was  another 
altar  with  burning  coals  upon  it.  On  returning  to  their  tents  they  re- 
ceived a  visit  from  the  first  commander  and  his  attendants,  who  took 
out  their  pipes  and  began  to  smoke,  after  inviting  their  hosts  to  do  like- 
wise. Gifts  were  ceremoniously  exchanged,  when  Humboldt  received 
some  Chinese  books.  The  officer  expressed  great  delight  when  Hum- 
boldt told  him  he  had  a  brother  who  was  interested  in  the  Chinese  lan- 
guage, to  whom  ho  would  take  them.  These  books,  which  are  in  the 
royal  library  at  Berlin,  contain  a  historical  romance  in  four  volumes, 
called  Sankuetahi,  the  subject  of  which  is  the  history  of  the  three  king- 
doms, into  which  China  was  divided  after  the  Han  dynasty,  and  which 
was  the  subject  of  the  literarj-  ''jpute  between  Klaproth  and  Professor 
Neumann  of  Munich.  The  troops  consisted  of  eighty  men.  They  wore 
long  coats  of  different  colors,  and  they  were  very  dirty,  and  very  lean. 
They  greatly  admired  the  corpulency  of  one  of  Humboldt's  company. 
A  few  camels  were  seen  about  the  tents,  a  flock  of  goats,  and  some  sheep 
with  enormous  tails. 

The  return  to  Ustkamenogorsk  was  highly  interesting  to  Humboldt 
for  its  geological  value,  and  was  suggestive  of  new  researches ;  for  as  he 
was  sailing  down  the  Irtysch  he  saw  on  the.  secluded  shores  of  these 
waters,  over  a  surface  of  more  than  sixteen  thousand  feet,  immense  rocks 


sage  to 


neii 


the 


m 


)T. 


1 


SALT   WORKS   OF   ILEZK. 


83 


La  companions  a 
but  tho  lateucsa 
desist. 

[umboldt  wished 
Chinese-Mongol- 
Ile  had  made 
o8t  on  tho  river, 
sit.    "When  they 
„h  they  occupied 
t,  one  on  tho  left 
her  on  the  right, 
rhey  lived  in  the 
were  irregularly 
the  Chinese,  who 

0  attendants.  He 
which  reached  to 
cap,  denoting  hia 

nd  answers  were 
jmed  that  he  was 
in  four  months  on 
every  three  years. 
Mongolians,  who 
ill,  square,  wooden 

1  the  picture  of  an 
1  above  the  altar, 
which  was  another 
their  tents  they  re- 
lendants,  who  took 
sir  hosts  to  do  like- 
Humboldt  received 
ielight  when  Hum- 
in  the  Chmese  lan- 

which  are  in  the 
36  in  four  volumes, 
y  of  the  three  king- 
dynasty,  and  which 
jroth  and  Professor 
y^men.    They  wore 
lirty,  and  very  lean, 
umboldt's  company, 
jats,  and  some  sheep 

isting  to  Humboldt 

esearches;  for  as  he 

led  shores  of  these 

feet,  immense  rocks 


of  granite  lying  horizontally  and  in  layers,  and  resting  on  clay  slate, 
whoso  layers  were  partly  perpendicular,  partly  at  an  angle  of  eighty-five 
degrees.  This  was  a  highly  important  &ot  for  Humboldt  in  bis  theory 
of  the  formation  of  granite. 

Their  next  route  was  down  the  Irtysch  and  westward  across  the 
steppe  of  Ischim,  to  the  southern  portion  of  the  Ural  chain,  passing  along 
the  frontiers  of  the  Middle  Horde  of  Khirgises,  a  nomadio  tribo  inhabit- 
ing the  steppes  between  the  Irtysch  and  tho  Ural  river.  A  luio  of 
military  posts,  consisting  of  small  villages  more  or  less  fortified,  at  inter- 
vals of  twenty  or  thirty  versts,  and  garrisoned  by  Cossacks,  is  establish- 
ed along  the  whole  boundary,  from  the  Chinese  frontier  to  the  Caspian 
Sea.  Humboldt  and  his  companions  left  Ustkamcnogorsk  under  a  mili- 
tary escort  of  Cossacks,  which  was  relieved  from  post  to  post,  and  pass- 
ing through  SemipolatLnsk,  a  place  of  considerable  importance  in  the 
caravan  trade  with  middle  Asia,  they  followed  the  course  of  tho  Irtysch 
as  far  as  Omsk,  where  they  arrived  on  the  25th.  After  remaining  here 
two  days,  in  which  they  visited  the  Cossack,  military,  and  Asiatio 
schools,  and  made  their  usual  observations,  they  left  the  river  and  cross- 
ed the  steppe  by  way  of  Petropaulowsk  and  the  trading  town  of  Troitsk, 
and  came  to  Miask  on  the  3d  of  September. 

Miask  is  a  mining  city  of  considerable  importance,  situated  in  the 
most  productive  mineral  district  of  tho  southern  Ural  range.  Here  they 
spent  two  weeks,  making  frequent  excursions  to  the  gold  washings  and 
the  mines  of  the  vicinity,  to  the  Ilmen  mountains,  and  to  the  mines 
around  Slatoust.  Then  proceeding  southward  to  the  head  waters  of  the 
Uri,  they  climbed  the  Auschkul  mountain,  and  examined  several  mines 
in  its  neighborhood.  On  the  way  thither,  they  passed  some  deserted 
villages  of  the  Bashkirs,  the  owners  spending  the  sununer  in  a  nomadio 
life,  and  returning  to  their  houses  for  the  winter  only.  At  Orsk,  on  the 
Uial  at  the  junction  of  the  Or,  Humboldt  stopped  to  examine  the  ex> 
tensive  quarries  of  green  jasper  near  that  place.  On  continuing  his  jour- 
ney he  was  furnished  with  a  guard  of  Cossacks  as  a  defense  against  the 
Khirgises,  for  that  portion  of  the  line,  between  Orsk  and  Orenburg,  was 
considered  the  most  dtngerous  on  the  whole  frontier.  On  the  2l8t they 
came  to  Orenburg,  the  capital  of  the  district,  the  main  fortress  on  the 
Ime,  and  the  center  of  a  flourishing  caravan  trade  to  various  places  in 
middle  Asia.  What  most  interested  Humboldt  in  the  vicinity  of  Oren- 
burg, was  the  great  salt  works  of  Ilezk,  on  the  steppe  between  the  Ural 
and  the  Ilek,  forty-five  miles  south  of  the  city.  In  the  absence  of  the 
Governor-General,  the  travelers  were  entertained  by  Major-General 
Gens,  whose  knowledge  of  the  geography  and  politcal  condition  of  mid- 
dle Asia,  greatly  interested  Humboldt.  He  had  a  fund  of  information 
obtained  from  caravans  and  ft'om  personal  observation.  In  order  to 
gratify  Humboldt's  desire  to  see  more  of  the  Khirgises,  he  sent  a  mes- 
sage to  the  nearest  sultan,  requesting  him  to  come  with  his  subjects  into 
the  neighborhood,  and  exhibit  their  skill  in  some  of  their  accustomed 


84 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  HUMBOLDT. 


games  and  sports.  Accordingly  a  large  number  appeared,  and  raised 
their  tents  a  fow  versts  from  the  city,  after  which  the  sultan  camo  w  per- 
son to  visit  Humboldt  and  General  Gens. 

As  they  drove  to  the  encampment,  they  had  occasion  to  admire  the 
skill  of  the  Khirgises,  many  of  whom  rode  around  tho  carriage  at  full 
gallop,  resting  with  their  hands  upon  tho  horses'  backs  and  their  feet  in 
the  air.  Having  arrived  at  the  tents  they  were  first  introduced  to  the 
sultan's  wives,  who  were  seated  in  a  row  in  his  tent,  and  then  tho  sports 
began.  The  first  was  horse-racing.  Tho  participants  rode  off  to  a  place 
seven  versts  distadl,  whence  they  were  to  ride  back  to  the  tents  as  their 
goal.  Meanwhile  other  games  wore  introduced.  Two  Khirgises  en- 
tered a  circle,  formed  by  the  spectators,  to  wrestle.  Casting  off  their 
outer  garments,  each  threw  his  leathern  girdle  over  the  other,  and 
thus  they  struggled  to  throw  each  other  to  the  ground.  The  victor 
remained  in  the  ring  until  thrown  by  a  new  antagonist.  One  distin- 
guished himself  by  throwing  six  in  succession,  but  was  vanquished  by 
the  seventh.  Then  a  large  kettle  was  brought  out,  half  filled  with  boiled 
groats.  Into  this  General  Gens  threw  a  silver  ruble,  which  the  Khirgises 
attempted  to  take  out  with  their  teeth.  When  several  rubles  had  been 
successively  picked  out  in  this  maimer,  and  a  still  greater  number  of 
Khirgises  had  ludicrously  besmeared  their  heads  and  shoulders  in  vain, 
the  sport  was  changed,  and  now  the  musicians  appeared.  The  firbu  were 
men,  who  begun  to  sing  in  long-drawn  tones,  frightfully  distorting  their 
faces  the  while.  There  was  no  trace  of  melody  in  their  song,  although 
they  were  themselves  so  enraptured  with  it  that  it  was  almost  impossible 
to  persuade  them  to  stop.  When  they  had  finished,  a  female,  completely 
vailed,  entered  the  circle,  and  sang  in  the  same  manner  as  the  men. 
Then  two  others  entered  and  sang  a  duet,  standing  with  their  iaces  close 
together,  and  raising  their  vails  so  that  they  could  see  each  other,  and 
also  allow  the  spectators  to  obtain  a  side  view,  which  they  did  not  seem 
to  take  amiss.  They  were  inteiTupted  by  the  intelligence  that  the 
horsemen  were  coming,  whereupon  the  spectators  gave  way,  aided  by 
the  whips  of  the  overseers.  A  boy  won'  tho  prize,  which  was  a  gold  em- 
broidered cloak,  the  others  receiving  smaller  presents.  Foot-racmg  waa 
the  next  performance.  From  the  starting-point  to  the  tent  was  about 
a  raile,  which  the  winner  ran  through  in  the  short  space  of  three  minutes. 
Here  the  first  prize  was  a  silver  ruble,  the  rest  were  pieces  of  cotton 
cloth  and  smaller  presents.  When  the  sports  were  ended  the  travelers 
returned  to  the  city,  and  prepared  for  their  departure  on  the  morrow. 

On  leaving  Orenburg,  they  resolved  to  pass  around  to  the  northward 
of  the  great  sandy  steppe  of  Rynpeski,  which  lies  between  the  Ural  and 
the  Volga,  and  is  inhabited  by  wandering  tribes  of  Cossacks,  IChirgises 
^  of  the  Inner  Horde,  and  Calmucks;  but  as  Humboldt  wished  to  see 
Uralsk,  the  chief  city  of  the  Uralian  Cossacks,  they  first  descended  the 
Ural  to  that  place.  They  arrived  on  tho  27th,  and  remained  a  day  to 
Bee  the  autumnal  fishing,  and  other  industrial  operations  of  the  people. 


used 
gible 
cloth, 
for  the 
but  wa 
ingof 
these 
temple 
and,  hj 
gilded 
upon 
cheese 
door  ar 
chief ; 
remote, 
the  str 
frightfu 
lama  ar 
whom ; 
Hur 
arrived 


V>!^0^&ftu^(£>^^ii^^«^^^. 


ired,  and  ndaed 
tan  camo  in  per- 

\  to  admire  the 
carriage  at  full 
and  their  feet  in 
itroduced  to  the 
a  then  the  sports 
ode  off  to  a  place 
the  tents  as  their 
wo  Khirgises  en- 
Casting  off  their 
sr  the  other,  and 
,und.    The  victor     , 
mist.     One  distin- 
ras  vanquished  by 
if  filled  with  boiled 
hich  the  Khirgises 
al  rubles  had  been 
;reater  number  of 
[  shoulders  in  viun, 
ed.    The  firbu  were 
lly  distorting  their 
aeir  song,  although 
A  almost  impossible 
female,  completely 
tanner  as  the  men. 
ith  their  faces  close 
jee  each  other,  and 
I  they  did  not  seem 
telligence  that  the 
gave  way,  Mded  by 
lich  was  a  gold  em- 
8.    Foot-racing  was 
the  tent  was  about 
ice  of  three  minutes, 
jre  pieces  of  cotton 
ended  the  travelers 
re  on  the  morrow, 
nd  to  the  northward 
Btween  the  Ural  and 
Cossacks,  lairgises 
boldt  wished  to  see 
f  first  descended  the 
1  remained  a  day  to 
itions  of  the  people. 


ARRIVAL    AT    ASTRACHAK. 


85 


The  prosperity  of  the  Cossacks  of  the  Ural  (or  Jaik),  is  mainly  owing 
to  the  productive  fisheries  of  the  Ural  river,  which,  next  to  military 
occupations,  furnish  their  chief  employment ;  pa-sturage  and  agriculture 
being  but  secondary.  From  Uralsk  the  travelers  turned  north-east- 
wardly  across  the  mountain  steppe  of  Obschtschci  Syrt,  to  Busuluk, 
thence  westwardly  to  the  Volga  at  Samara.  In  this  region  Humboldt 
found  numerous  sulphur  springs,  and  waters  impregnated  with  asphaltcs 
and  with  salt ;  while  in  many  places  sulphur  is  obtained  from  the  earth 
in  large  quantities.  As  they  descended  the  Volga,  they  passed  through 
a  number  of  German  colonies  on  the  banics  of  the  river,  above  and  boluw 
Saratoff.  From  Dubowka  they  made  an  excursion  to  the  large  salt-lake 
of  Elton — called  Alton  Nor,  the  Golden  Lake,  by  the  Cossacks — situated 
in  the  steppe,  seventy  miles  eastward  of  the  Volga,  and  celebrated  for 
its  extensive  manufactories  of  salt.  While  examining  the  waters  of  the 
lake,  they  found  large  quantities  of  insects  of  various  kinds,  and  even 
birds,  which,  having  fallen  into  the  lake,  were  well  preserved,  and  from 
these  Ehrenberg  made  a  good  collection  of  the  fauna  of  the  region. 

Further  down  the  river,  at  Sarepta,  they  found  a  colony  of  Moravian 
brethren,  established  in  1765,  who  carried  on  a  considerable  trafiic,  in 
their  own  manufactures,  with  the  Cossacks.  In  the  lower  districts  of  the 
Volga  they  frequently  passed  the  kibitkaa  of  the  Calmucks,  and  met  the 
people  with  their  lierds  of  horses,  sheep  and  camels.  They  also  passed 
one  of  the  temples,  in  the  entrance  of  which  a  number  of  long  sticks 
stood  upright  with  written  prayers  fastened  upon  them.  The  prayers  of 
the  Calmucks  are  all  written  in  the  Thibetan  language,  which  is  always 
used  by  the  priests  in  their  religious  rites,  although  it  is  quite  unintelli- 
gible to  the  people.  They  are  usually  written  on  long  strips  of  cotton 
cloth,  which  are  fastened  to  long  sticks  th&'v  they  may  bo  easily  agitated, 
for  the  prayers  are  not  read  or  repeated  by  the  priests  in  their  worship, 
but  waved  as  flags  by  the  wind,  as  the  Calmucks  believe  that  the  mov- 
ing of  the  written  prayers  is  just  as  effectual  as  repeating  them.  By 
these  fluttering  prayers  and  the  noisy  music  that  proceeded  from  the 
temple,  the  travelers  knew  that  the  Cossacks  were  at  worship  within, 
and,  having  a  desire  to  see  them,  they  entered.  Upon  the  altar  stood 
gilded  figures  of  their  idols,  while  glaring  pictures  of  idols  hung 
upon  the  walls.  Several  basins  containing  fruit,  water,  dried  flesh, 
cheese  and  other  offerings,  were  placed  before  the  altar.  Between  the 
door  and  the  altar  six  priests  sat  face  to  face  upon  the  floor,  the  lama  or 
chief  priest  being  nearest  the  altar,  the  gellongs  or  inferior  priests  more 
remote.  They  were  playing  upon  a  variety  of  instruments,  producing 
the  strange  noise  which  was  heard  without.  The  music,  or  rather  the 
frightful  uproar,  alternated  with  a  song  of  like  character.  At  length  the 
lama  arose,  the  music  ceased,  and  the  priests  then  spoke  to  the  travelers, 
whom  they  had  not  before  heeded. 

Humboldt  was  received  with  great  honor  at  Astrachan.  When  he 
arrived  at  the  ferry  on  the  afternoon  of  October  12th,  a  steamboat,  sent 


MtpHBIiMlritttriht 


80 


LIFE  AND    TRAVELS   OP    HUUBOLDT. 


by  the  Governor-General  OflsipofT,  was  waiting  for  him  and  hia  oompan- 
ions,  and  amid  tho  firing  of  cannon  they  crossed  to  the  city,  whore  a 
large  crowd  was  drawn  together  by  these  unusual  preparations.  They 
were  conveyed  by  four-horse  carriages  to  the  spacious  apartments  allotted 
them,  where,  on  the  morrow,  Humboldt  was  waited  upon  by  the  digni- 
tarics  of  tho  place  and  the  deputies  of  all  tho  various  nations  represented 
in  the  motley  population  of  Astrocban.  They  were  presented  by  the 
governor-general  in  the  order  of  rank.  First  came  the  burgomaster, 
with  tho  elders  of  tho  mercantile  protession,  who,  according  to  the  Rus- 
sian custom,  brought  the  tokens  of  homage,  but  instead  of  common  bread 
and  salt,  it  w^as  a  pound-cake,  ornamented  mth  the  best  fruits  of  Astra- 
chan — with  grapes,  largo  plums,  pears  and  apples — and  salt.  Next  came 
the  nobles  and  tho  officers  of  the  garrison,  and  then  the  deputies  of  the 
Armenians,  Persians,  Hindoos,  Tartars,  and  others. 

The  travelers  found  much  to  interest  them  in  Astrachan,  in  its  diversi- 
fied population,  in  the  bazaars  of  the  various  nations  and  their  places  of 
worship.  In  one  of  the  temples  di  fakir  sat  crouching  on  the  floor  with  his 
chin  resting  upon  his  knees,  between  which  the  long  white  beard  reached 
down  to  the  ground.  He  had  no  clothing  but  a  sheepskin  thrown  loosely 
about  him,  and  had  been  ritting  thus  for  fifteen  years. 

Humboldt  obtained  a  steamboat  and  proceeded  with  his  companions 
to  the  mouths  of  the  Volga  and  the  Caspian  Sea,  in  order  to  analyze  its 
waters,  to  make  barometrical  measurements,  and  to  obtain  specimens  of 
the  fish.  When  they  had  thus  seen  the  most  remarkable  objects  of  As- 
trachan, and  completed  their  scientific  Libors,  they  proceeded  to  visit  the 
remarkable  Calmuck  prince,  Scred  Dschab,  whom  Humboldt  desired  to 
sec.  As  he  resided  near  the  Volga,  fifty  miles  above  the  city,  they  made 
all  preparations  for  their  journey,  and  set  off  from  Astrachan  on  the  21st 
of  October.  The  prince  sent  a  large  cavalcade  and  carriages  to  the  land- 
ing, supposing  that  Humboldt  traveled  in  greater  state,  and  received  them 
with  great  honor  at  his  residence,  where  he  entertained  them  hospitably. 
He  conducted  them  to  his  temple  where  religious  services  were  per- 
formed, showed  them  his  horses,  hiii  orchard  and  gardens,  and  the 
distilleries  where  brandy  is  manu&ctured  from  mare's  milk.  At  his  resi- 
dence they  also  met  with  Dsohangir,  the  young  Khan  of  the  Inner 
Horde  of  Khirgises.  Leaving  their  Calmuck  host  they  hastened  to  con- 
tinue their  homeward  journey,  for  the  weather  was  cold  and  winter  was 
fast  approaching.  On  the  next  day  the  country  was  covered  with 
snow. 

Retracing  their  course  along  the  Volga  as  &r  as  Zarizyn,  they  then 
crossed  over  to  the  Don,  where  Humboldt  made  his  last  barometrical 
observation,  having  reference  to  the  relative  height  of  the  Caspian  Sea, 
afler  which  they  proceeded  by  Woronesch,  Tula  and  Moscow,  to  St.  Pe- 
tersburgh,  where  Humboldt's  obligations  to  the  government  and  court 
detained  him  four  weeks.  The  party  finally  arrived  at  Berlin  on  the 
28th  of  December,  1829.    Humboldt  had  been  absent  on  this  expedition 


-•■'}/:-.  .--i «.,.'.  ,•i-.■»i-^ 


.---^'^i;4;;i£Je=»*«~i'=^'-i^*''lSte^^ 


t 


LDT. 


n  and  hU  eompan- 
)  the  city,  where  » 
reparations.  They 
apartments  allotted 
upon  by  the  dignt- 
nations  represented 
5  presented  by  the 
3  the  burgomaster, 
cording  to  the  Rusr 
id  of  common  bread 
jest  fruits  of  Astra- 
id  salt.  Next  came 
the  deputies  of  the 

'achon,  in  its  diversi- 
I  and  their  places  of 
;  on  the  floor  with  his 
white  beard  reached 
pskin  thrown  loosely 
•s. 

with  his  companions 
I  order  to  analyze  its 
>  obttun  specimens  of 
irkable  objects  of  As- 
)roceeded  to  visit  the 
Humboldt  desired  to 
e  the  city,  they  made 
Vstrachan  on  the  21st 
carriages  to  the  land- 
te,  and  received  them 
ined  them  hospitably. 
IIS  services  were  per- 
id  gardens,  and  the 
e's  milk.    At  his  resi- 
5  Khan  of  the  Inner 
they  hastened  to  con- 
s  cold  and  winter  was 
:y  was  covered  with 

as  Zarizyn,  they  then 
!  his  last  barometrical 
It  of  the  Caspian  Sea, 
ind  Moscow,  to  St.  Pe- 
[overnment  and  court 
ved  at  Berlui  on  the 
sent  on  this  expedition 


> 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


•y 


33  WEST  MAIN  STRUT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)  872-4503 


i^ 


S' 


^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


JB^» 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  MIcrorsproductlons  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


mmmmm" 


:\ 


MISSION    TO   PARIS. 


87 


eight  months  and  a  half,  during  which  he  had  traveled  a  distance  of  be- 
tween eleven  and  twelve  thousand  miles. 

This  journey,  like  the  American  one,  was  of  great  importance  to  the 
science  of  physical  geography.  Its  results  were  published  in  three 
works,  of  which  each  of  the  travelers  undertook  to  compose  one.  Hum- 
boldt's "  Fragments  of  Asiatic  Geology  and  Climatology"  was  the  iirst 
to  appear.  It  treats  especially  of  the  mountain  ridges  and  volcanoes  of 
Central  Asia,  and  serves  to  establish  Humboldt's  theory,  that  the  vol- 
canic activity  of  the  earth  is  continually  decreasing.  Before  this  journey 
there  existed  many  erroneous  notions  of  the  geography  of  the  interior 
of  Asia,  the  connection  of  the  mountain  chains,  and  the  character  of  the 
soil  and  climate,  and  Humboldt's  work,  together  with  his  ^'■Asie  Ceti- 
trale*^  (first  published  in  Paris  in  1843),  threw  an  entirely  new  light 
upon  all  this  region.  Another  very  important  result  followed  this  ex- 
pedition. In  many  parts  of  Siberia  Humboldt  left  carefully  compared 
thermometers,  in  the  hands  of  competent  and  intelligent  persons,  and 
awakened  the  taste  for  these  measurements  and  comparative  experi- 
ments, especially  among  the  Russian  mining  superintendents  of  the  Ural 
mountains.  In  addition  to  this,  at  his  suggestion,  the  Imperial  Academy 
of  St.  Petersburg,  with  the  emperor's  concurrence,  established  at  dif- 
ferent points,  throughout  the  entire  extent  of  the  Russian  empire,  a 
regular  system  of  observations  on  the  daily  changes  in  the  state  of  the 
barometer,  thermometer,  and  hygrometer,  on  the  temperature  of  the 
soil,  the  direction  of  the  wind,  and  the  moisture  of  the  atmosphere. 
During  the  twelve  years  which  elapsed  between  the  publication  of  his 
"Asiatic  FragmentP'-  (1831),  and  his  "Central  Asia"  (1843),  Humboldt 
was  in  constant  communication  with  Russia,  and  was  regularly  furnished 
with  the  results  of  the  system  of  observation  which  he  had  instituted. 
Notwithstanding  the  varied  and  important  contributions  to  physical 
science  which  he  was  thus  enabled  to  afford,  he  felt  that  he  was  not 
compensated  for  the  relinquishment  of  his  long-cherished  plan  of  visiting 
Persia,  Thibet,  and  India.  Now,  in  his  old  age,  ho  declares  that  he 
regrets  nothing  so  much  as  that  he  did  not  carry  out  the  project,  when 
it  was  first  made. 


HUliB0LDT»8   LATER   TEARS. 

In  September,  1830,  Humboldt  was  sent  to  Paris  by  Frederic  Wil- 
liam HI.,  with  the  diplomatic  mission  to  acknowledge  Louis  Philippe 
and  the  new  dynasty.  He  was  also  sent  a  second  time  in  February, 
1831,  and  on  his  return  the  following  autumn,  appears  to  have  visited 
Weimar,  and  spent  a  few  hours  with  Goethe,  who  was  then  in  his  eighty- 
first  year,  and  whoso  death  occurred  in  less  than  six  months  afterward. 
In  the  year  1835  he  was  called  upon  to  mourn  the  loss  of  his  brother, 
who  died  on  the  8th  of  April,  and  whose  literary  executor  he  became. 


/.ti 


:>^ 


f 


t 


J,,«       '' 


gg  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OP    HUMBOLDT. 

Thenceforth  ho  rcBided  mostly  in  Berlin,  demoting  himself  entircly^^^ 
Thencetonn  jj„an«eraout,  revision,  and  publication  of  his  broth- 

,vho  worked  under  h»  ^^^    ^^  lVo„  iho  mc»n  clevaUon  of  tl.o 

J  ""■  f  1  re«T^bor.  'w  h  «r?;mma„a  ,o  accompany  .he  court  U> 
him  from  these  laDorB,wiwi  V  p  «i,„  Princft  of  Wales  In  England 
London,  to  attend  the  chrBtemng  of  the  P^f  ^  J  *"^„^  ,„  ij„lin, 
ho  was  treated  with  a«tingu,shed  honor    After  ^"^ -J  ° J  ^°^„^  ^; 

'r  S  "^^X^  oVyTa  Sa^J  o^ae"  f  r  ^^y-^^^^^^, 
Se:tr:rie,^;r  he  w<^d^   ho  pr..n«a  rema^ahle  ,ct^ 

4n  in  tW«.r  1849,  gi.e,  the  follewing  deseriptton  of  the  gr»,d  old 
n'SilfrXrtherever  hi,  K,yal  Mend  lives.  There 'a^ 
apartm^^JsS'him  m  BerUn,  Potsdam  in  -' '"--f  ^P^  dg'Tty- 0^ 
X  passes  that  ho  does  not^-  the^  W  ^^  J^^/Ljoc^yd  hy 
r';JrtrarvS  pntraU:  his  immense  eorrespondenee, 
td  a~  wo™  everytucr  of  the  hamWest  scholar  with  the  most  ammble 
"m  y  Th«  inhahitants  of  Berlin  and  Potsdam  a^l  Ifrj  ■""["": 
f  &  show  hhn  «hj,0"0-  ^^^XTf^i-^X^ 

ri  hn:S'orBe^crne;:s„:LrtiS^^ 

l^a  hta^ot  wheaf  htdin'g  beneath  the  weight  of  its  numerous  neh 


IT. 

[laelf  entirely  to 
ion  of  his  broth- 
npal  part  of  hia 
h  his  friends  in 
labors  of  others 

published  a  dis- 
elevation  of  the 
■which  had  been 
)f  the  world  un- 
a  more  extended 
L  IV.,  summoned 
)any  the  court  to 
lies.    In  England 

return  to  Berlin, 
erit  (founded  by 
urpose  of  decorat- 
•oyal  favor.  The 
le  greatest  living 

oting  all  the  time 
e  preparation  and 
lim  as  his  last  and 
emarkable  picture 
f  that  elastic  tem- 
iical  hardship,  and 
muscular  strength, 
rime  of  life,  while 
md  discovery,  is  as 
)f  Humboldt,  writ- 
n  of  the  grand  old 

I  lives.    There  -are 
al  palaces,  and  not 
s  of  hia  eighty-one 
re  not  occupied  by 
m  correspondence, 
h  the  most  anuable 
all  know  hiro  per- 
•  the  king.    With  a 
.nt  forward,  whose 
of  noble  calmness, 
le  greetings  of  the 
pie  dress,  frequently 
lack,  so  he  wanders 
usly,  a  noble  picture 
af  its  numerous  rich 


PRESENT    POSITION. 


89 


golden  ears,  Wlicrever  he  appears  ho  is  received  with  tokens  of  uni- 
versal  esteem.  Tliose  who  pass,  timidly  step  aside  for  fear  of  disturbing 
him  in  his  thoughts  ;  even  the  working  man  looks  respectfully  after  liim, 
and  says  to  his  neighbor :  '  There  goes  Humboldt !'  And  Avhoever  has 
had  the  happiness  of  conversing  with  him,  never  forgets  the  force  of  his 
lucid,  simple,  natural,  and  unaffected  conversation,  for  in  every  thing  he 
says,  uepth  and  learnmg,  clearness  and  unbounded  knowledge,  are 
revealed  without  any  of  the  pride  of  learning,  the  stiff  pedantry  and 
preciseness  of  many  German  men  of  science.  Humboldt  has  evidently 
been  educated  in  the  highest  society;  his  manner  is  dignified,  open,  un- 
affected, and  frank ;  he  has  lived  with  all  nations,  and  adopted  and 
united  in  himself  the  advantages  of  all." 

This  picture  is  true  at  the  present  day,  when  six  years  have  been 
added  to  his  venerable  age.  He  is  still  in  correspondence  with  scien- 
tific men  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  frequently  reads  their  letters 
aloud  at  the  table  of  the  king.  He  is  equally  alive  to  the  political 
aspects  of  the  different  nations,  and  suffers  no  circumstance  of  their 
material  development  to  escape  his  attention.  Though  the  friend  and 
equal  of  a  king,  he  is  thoroughly  liberal  and  progressive  in  his  ideas,  and 
there  are  few  grander  instances  of  individual  independence  on  record, 
than  the  fact  of  his  voting  the  liberal  ticket  at  the  polls  in  Berlin,  in  the 
year  1855.  Few  men  have  lived  more  fortunate  lives  than  he :  few  have 
ever  left  behind  them  a  nobler  monument  of  industry,  zeal  and  genius. 
Humboldt  has  been  especially  favored  by  Providence,  from  his  very 
cradle.  Unlike  the  majority  of  distinguished  men,  he  was  not  obliged  to 
contend  with  poverty  or  adverse  circumstances;  he  never  knew  that 
physical  and  spiritual  prostration  which  springs  from  the  impatience  of 
unacknowledged  powers.  And  it  is  his  highest  merit  that  with  worldly 
circumstances  so  favorable,  he  did  not  give  way  to  the  charms  and  in- 
dulgences of  his  aristocratic  position,  that  he  did  not  fall  into  the  ego- 
tism of  high  birth,  nor  the  pride  of  idleness,  but  in  all  periods  of  his  life 
followed  the  true  impulses  of  his  nature,  and  made  himself  the  self- 
sacrificing  ser\'ant  of  science,  for  the  good  of  mankind.  Rejecting  all 
the  comforts  which  he  inherited,  and  the  distinguished  society  into 
which  he  was  thrown,  he  cheerfully  sacrificed  his  property,  and  sub- 
jected himself  to  the  greatest  dangers  and  privations  in  his  endeavors  to 
investigate  the  phenomena  of  nature,  and  obtain  a  knowledge  of  the 
laws  which  govern  the  world. 

May  the  growing  and  still  brightening  orb  of  his  life  be  roimded  to 
a  century  of  years! 


m 


if- 


-^} 


fe^J 


1  V<!, 


:^ 


i 


MUNGO    PARK'S 


TRAVELS    IN  WESTERN    AFRICA. 


MuNQO  Park,  one  of  the  first  and  bravest  of  the  many  travelers  who 
have  devoted  themselves  to  the  exploration  of  the  course  of  the  river 
Niger,  was  bom  on  the  10th  of  September,  1111,  at  Fowlshiels,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Yarrow,  in  Scotland.  His  father  was  a  farmer,  who  was 
blessed  with  thirteen  other  children,  but  was  fortmiately  able  to  give 
.  oung  Mimgo  a  tolerable  education,  and  to  apprentice  him  to  a  surgeon 
at  Selkirk,  in  his  fifteenth  year.  In  1789,  Park  entered  the  University 
of  Edinburg,  and  applied  himself  with  great  assiduity  to  the  studies 
connected  with  his  profession.  His  summer  vacations,  during  one  of 
which  he  made  a  tour  to  the  Highlands,  were  devoted  to  botany. 

After  having  completed  his  education  ho  removed  to  London,  hoping 
to  establish  himself  there  in  busmess  as  a  surgeon.  Through  his  brother- 
in-law,  Mr.  Dickson,  he  had  the  good  fortune  to  become  acquainted  with 
Sir  Joseph  Banks,  the  patron  of  so  many  travelers,  and  through  whose 
recommendation  he  was  appointed  surgeon  to  the  ship  Worcester,  an 
East  Indiaman.*  In  this  capacity  he  made  a  voyage  to  Bencoolen,  in 
Sumatra,  and  on  his  return  communicated  a  paper  to  the  "  Linnsean 
Transactions,"  containing  descriptions  of  eight  new  fishes  of  that  island. 
About  this  time  the  African  Association,  of  which  Sir  Joseph  Banks  was 
a  very  active  and  zealous  member,  was  desirous  of  engaging  a  person 
to  replace  Major  Houghton,  who,  it  was  feared,  had  fallen  a  sacrifice  to 
the  climate,  or  perished  in  some  contest  with  the  natives.  Park  at  once 
offered  his  services,  which,  after  some  deliberation,  were  accepted,  and 
the  Association  fitted  him  out  in  the  most  liberal  manner.  On  the  22d 
of  May,  1795,  he  sailed  fi-om  Portsmouth  in  the  brig  Endeavor.  Hia 
instructions,  he  says,  were  very  plain  and  concise.  He  was  directed,  on 
his  arrival  in  Africa,  "  to  pass  on  to  the  river  Niger,  either  by  the  way 

•  The  eurgeon  attached  to  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Company's  steamer  Madras,  in 
which  I  sailed  from  Southampton  to  Gibraltar,  in  November,  1862,  was  Dr.  Mungo  Park, 
a  nephew  of  the  traveler.— B.  T. 


)i 


0' 


94  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    MUNGO    PARK, 

of  B.n.bouU  or  by  such  otW  --  ^^.^^^^^^^^ 

that  I  should  -^-^t  I  rurusf™;  r^o^  exertions  to  visit  tho 
tion  of  tho  river ;  that  I  should  ."^o  ™y  .    jj^.^    Timbuctoo  and 

principal  towns  or  cities  » ^^'I^^^dt^^Tt  liCT  o  /etum  to  Europe, 
iloussa.;  and  that  ^  ^J-^^^^^  J^f  ^^^^^^^^^^  as  under  all  the 

Mca,  a  town  on  the  northern  ^^^^^"^'^^^^^^^^       proceeded  up  the 
Barra.    From  this  place  after  a  ^tay  <>f  two  days  he  P  j  ^^^ 

Gambia,  in  the  waters  of  which  ^J''^ J^;'^,^^^^^^^  whose 

of  unknown  species,  together  -^^^/^g  cJ^U^^^  «* 

teeth  furnish  excellent  ivory.    ^  J^^  ^^^^^       pi^ania,  a  small 

Jonkakonda,  P-^f  ^^^^Jy^^,^^^^^^^  th'e  5th  of  July  took 

British  factory  m  the  Kmg  of  Yam  s  oom        ^  ^^^^^^  ^  ^^^^  ^^ 

up  his  residence  at  the  house  of  Dr.  Laidley,  urn 
prosecute  his  journey  into  the  "l*^"?!-  ^^^^  Mandingo  language, 

which  in  that  part  of  ^"?%"J^ J'°',  '     ct  ng  the  countries  he  was 
Bource  within  his  power  "^f^"™; ^^''^  "'P'f^^^^ 

about  to  visit     In  t^VSSt  mK  n   See  could  be  placed  on 
cation ;  but  he  soon  found  that  Uttle  or  n  ^^  ^^^ 

the  accounts  of  the  interior  <^™;«J.f  .^^i^J^^^^^^^  with  each 

xnost  material  points,  were  fr«*l"^^^^y  ^"  ^Tr  y^^^^^  was  therefore  in- 
other.  His  anxiety  to  examine  f°^  J"^f/1^^^  ^^ch  had  now  com- 
creased.  However,  besides  that  the  rainy  «;^°°^;;  .^  insuperable 
menced,  rendered  traveUng  impracticable  an^^^^^^^^         y  ^^^^  P  .^^^^^ 

bar  to  the  speedy  prosecution  «f  J^;«  ^Tf  the  moon,  he  imprudently 
In  observing  on  the  31st  of  July  an  ^fjl^l'^^y^^  f^^^a  himself  at- 
exposed  himself  to  the  -^^\^!:;^^^,::^^\fln  illn.ss  that  Vith 

^^^Savingbeen  ais5>P;^f^^  ^^^^lEa^^^ 

5^=::;r^^£t:Sn^.^^ 

Johnson,  who  had  ^een  many  y^aij^m  Gr^a    Brrtam  a 

both  the  English  and  Mandingo  languag^^^^^^ 

named  Demba,  the  property  of  ^"/^^^^^^^^^^^^     ^^  his  return.    Be- 

ment  of  good  behavior,  Vron^-^^^^^J^^^^^^^^  ,^      j, 

sides  these  Park  was  accompanied  ^/  f  "^^^^^^^^  ^  ^^^^^  thei^  safe  re- 


RK. 

nost  convenient ; 
iso  and  termina- 
ons  to  visit  the 
Timbuctoo  and 
cturn  to  Europe, 
3  as  under  all  the 
;t3  should  appear 

he  arrived  at  Jil- 
the  kingdom  of 
proceeded  up  the 
numbers  of  fish 
ppopotami,  whose 
the  Endeavor  at 
r  Pisania,  a  small 
e  5th  of  July  took 
!  should  be  able  to 

[andingo  language, 
collect  from  every 
countries  he  was 
d  on  his  own  appli- 
could  be  placed  on 
itives,  who,  on  the 
radiction  with  each 
If  was  therefore  in- 
rhich  had  now  com- 
equally  insuperable 
dy  presented  itself. 
)on,  he  imprudently 
le  found  himself  at- 
'  an  illness  that  Vith 
two  months  within 

>f  proceeding  with  a 
m  Pisania  on  the  2d 
legro  servant,  named 
;ain,  and  understood 
with  a  negro  boy, 
3  the  highest  induce- 
on  his  return.  Be- 
jersons,  who,  though 
nd  that  their  safe  re- 
nd on  our  traveler's 
rnificent :  a  horse  for 
>  days,  a  small  assort- 


JOURNBY    TO    THB    INTERIOR. 


95 


ment  of  beads,  amber,  and  tobacco,  a  few  changes  of  linen  and  other 
apparel,  an  umbrella,  a  pocket  sextant,  a  magnetic  compass,  a  ther- 
mometer, two  fowling-pieces,  two  pair  of  pistols,  and  some  other  small 
articles.  His  friends  at  Pisania  accompanied  him  during  the  first  two 
days,  and  then,  dismissing  him  on  his  way,  took  their  leave,  8cC''^tlr 
persuaded  that  they  would  never  see  him  more. 

He  had  scarcely  lost  sight  of  his  European  friends,  and  ridden  off 
musing  and  somewhat  melancholy  into  the  woods,  when  a  body  of  black 
people  presented  themselves  in  a  clamorous  manner  before  him,  demand- 
ing custom  dues,  in  default  of  which  they  threatened  to  carry  liim  before 
their  king.  To  escape  from  this  honor,  which  might  have  proved  a 
costly  one.  Park  presented  them  with  a  little  tobacco,  upon  which  they 
were  contented,  and  he  was  allowed  to  proceed.  On  reaching  Medina, 
the  capital  of  WooUi,  he  judged  it  prudent  to  present  himself  at  the 
king's  levee,  when  the  benevolent  old  chief  not  only  granted  him  per- 
mission to  traverse  his  dominions,  but  assured  him  that  he  would  offer 
up  prayers  for  his  safety,  partly  to  secure  which  ho  furnished  him  with  a 
trusty  guide. 

Having  safely  reached  the  frontiers  of  the  WooUi  dominions.  Park  dis- 
missed his  guide ;  and  being  about  to  enter  a  country  interspersed  with 
deserts,  in  which  water  is  frequently  not  to  be  procured,  he  hired  three 
negroes,  experienced  elephant-hunters,  who  were  at  once  to  serve  as 
guides  and  water-bearers.  While  ho  was  preparing  to  depart,  however, 
one  of  these  negroes,  who  had  all  received  a  part  of  their  pay  in  advance, 
made  his  escape ;  and  lest  the  remaining  two  should  bo  disposed  to  fol- 
low his  example,  he  immediately  gave  orders  to  fill  their  calabashes  with 
nrater,  and  struck  off  into  the  wilderness,  just  as  the  sun  was  appearing 
ibove  the  horizon.  After  crossing  the  first  desert,  they  reached  Talika, 
the  frontier  town  of  Bondou  toward  Woolli,  where  Park  engaged  a 
kind  of  custom-house  officer  to  accompany  him  for  a  trifling  present  to 
Fatteconda,  the  residence  of  the  king.  On  his  arrival  at  Fatteconda 
he  was  received  by  the  black  chief  with  much  apparent  kindness,  though 
Major  Houghton,  he  had  heard,  in  his  passage  through  the  country,  had 
been  both  insulted  and  plundered  by  this  same  man.  It  is  true  the  king  was 
so  completely  captivated  by  Park's  best  blue  coat  and  gilt  buttons,  that 
he  could  not  resist  the  temptation  to  beg  it ;  but  he  endeavored  in  some 
measure  to  remunerate  him  for  the  loss  by  a  present  of  five  drachms  of 
gold,  and  by  altogether  abstaining  from  examining  his  baggage,  or  exact- 
ing any  other  present  than  what  was  voluntarily  bestowed. 

The  territories  of  these  petty  African  chiefs,  who  are  compljusantly  de- 
nominated kings,  are  exceedingly  limited  in  extent.  Your  road  con- 
ducts you  to-day  through  one  kingdom,  to-morrow  through  another, 
and  the  next  day  through  a  third ;  which,  of  all  those  circumstances 
that  obstruct  the  movements  of  the  traveler  in  Africa,  is,  perhaps,  the 
most  vexatious  and  the  most  difficult  to  overcome ;  as  the  rapacity  of 
the  first  chiefi  who  lie  in  his  way  deprives  him  of  the  power  of  satisfying 


96 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    UUNQO    PARK. 


the  equul  rapacity  of  the  remainder.  Ilcnce,  Park  traveled  in  a  perpet- 
ual Btiito  of  captivity.  He  was  never,  unless  when  far  removed  from  hu- 
man society  by  woods  or  deserts,  completely  master  of  his  own  actions,  or 
Butliciently  respected  to  render  it  possible  for  him  to  contemplate  the 
f"  urtor  classes,  even  of  these  savages,  from  a  proper  level. 

Park  left  Fatteconda  on  the  23d  of  December.  "  In  the  aftomoon," 
says  he,  "  my  fellow-travelers  informed  me,  that  as  this  was  the  bound- 
ary between  Bondou  and  Kajaaga,  and  dangerous  for  travelers,  it 
would  be  necessary  to  contiime  our  journciy  by  night,  imtil  wo  should 
reach  a  more  hospitable  j)art  of  the  country.  I  agreed  to  the  pro- 
posal, and  hired  two  men  for  guides  through  the  woods,  and  sis  soon  as 
the  jieople  of  the  village  were  gone  to  sleep  (the  moon  shining  bright) 
we  set  out.  The  stillness  of  the  air,  the  howling  of  the  wild  beasts,  and 
the  deep  solitude  of  the  forest  made  the  scene  solemn  and  impressive. 
Not  a  word  was  uttered  by  any  of  us  but  in  a  whisper ;  all  were  atten- 
tive, and  every  one  anxious  to  show  his  sagacity  by  pointing  out  to  mo 
the  wolves  and  hyenas  as  they  glided  like  shadows  from  one  thicket  to 
another.  Toward  morning  we  arrived  at  a  village  called  Kimmoo,  when 
our  guides  awakened  one  of  their  acquaintance,  and  we  stopped  to  give 
our  asses  some  corn,  and  roast  a  few  ground-nuts  for  ourselves.  At  day- 
light we  resumed  our  journey,  and  in  the  afternoon  arrived  at  Joag  in 
the  kingdom  of  Kajaaga." 

On  arriving  at  Joag  Park — who  had  taken  up  his  residence  at  the 
house  of  the  dooty,  or  chief  man  of  the  town,  a  rigid  but  hospitable  Mo- 
hammedan— was  favored  with  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  genuine 
character  of  the  negro.  "  The  same  evening,"  says  ho,  "  Madiboo,  the 
bushreen  w^ho  had  accompanied  me  from  Pisania,  went  to  pay  a  visit  to 
his  father  and  mother,  who  dwelt  at  a  neighboring  town  called  Dramar 
net.  He  was  joined  by  my  other  attendant,  the  blacksmith ;  and  as  soon 
as  it  was  dark,  I  was  invited  to  see  the  sports  of  the  inhabitants,  it  being 
their  custom,  on  the  arrival  of  strangers,  to  welcome  them  by  diversions 
of  different  kinds.  I  found  r  great  crowd  surrounding  a  party  who  were 
dancing  by  the  light  of  some  large  fires  to  the  music  of  four  drums,  which 
were  beat  with  great  exactness  and  uniformity.  The  dances,  however, 
consisted  more  in  wanton  gestures  than  in  muscular  exertion  or  graceful 
attitudes. 

At  Joag,  while  preparing  to  advance  on  his  journey,  he  was  suddenly 
honored  with  a  visit  from  the  king's  son,  accompanied  by  a  troop  of 
horse,  who,  pretending  that  by  entering  his  father's  dominions  he  had 
forfeited  the  whole  of  his  property,  insisted  upon  examining  his  merchan- 
dise, of  which  he  seized  upon  the  moiety.  Of  the  remnant  that  remained, 
particularly  a  little  amber  and  a  few  beads,  which  he  had  succeeded  in 
concealing,  he  was  now  so  fearful  of  producing  any  portion,  even  for  the 
purchase  of  food,  lest  he  should  once  more  awaken  the  cupidity  rf  the 
authorities,  that  both  he  and  his  attendants  determined  on  combating 
hunger  for  the  day,  "  and  wait  some  opportunity  of  purchasing  or  beg- 


-.iiiMin-ti  mnii'tr*  ■  iii'iliMirii 


.RK. 

eled  in  a  pcrpct- 
emovod  from  hu- 
i»  own  uctiona,  or 
contemplate  the 

level. 

n  thcftftomoon," 
A  was  the  bound- 
for  travelers,   it 
,  imtil  wo  should 
reed  to  the  pro- 
ds, and  as  soon  as 
n  shining  bright) 
0  wild  beasts,  and 
n  and  impressive. 
!r ;  all  were  atten- 
pointing  out  to  mo 
om  ono  thicket  to 
led  Kimmoo,  when 
we  stopped  to  give 
)ur8elves.     At  day- 
arrived  at  Joag  in 


lis  residence  at  the 
but  hospitable  Mo- 
serving  the  genuine 
he,  "  Madiboo,  the 
ent  to  pay  a  visit  to 
town  called  Drama- 
ksmith;  and  as  soon 
inhabitants,  it  being 
B  them  by  diversions 
ng  a  party  who  were 
of  four  drums,  which 
'he  dances,  however, 
:  exertion  or  graceful 

ney,  ho  vras  suddenly 
ipanied  by  a  troop  of 
•'8  dominions  he  had 
caraining  his  merchan- 
jmnant  that  remained, 

he  had  succeeded  in 
r  portion,  even  for  the 
3n  the  cupidity  rf  the 
ermined  on  combating 

of  purchasing  or  beg- 


AFRIOAN    CUSTOMS. 


97 


ging  provisions."  In  tlii.s  extremity,  while  he  was  sitting  down  cliewing 
straws,  a  fi'niiile  wlave,  who  observed  him  in  passing  by,  was  moved  with 
compassion,  and  presented  him  with  a  (piantity  of  groimd-nuts,  which 
was  a  very  seasoiiablo  supply.  Scarcely  ha<l  the  old  woman  lell  him,  be- 
fore ho  received  information  that  the  nephew  of  the  Kingof  K.isson,  who 
had  been  sent  by  liis  uncle  on  an  embassy  to  the  King  of  Kajaag.a,  and 
was  now  returning  to  his  own  country,  was  about  to  pay  him  a  visit. 
He  came  accordingly,  mid  upon  Park's  representing  to  him  his  situation 
and  distresses,  kindly  offered  to  bo  his  guide  and  protector  as  far  as  Kas- 
son.  With  him,  therefore,  our  traveler  now  continued  his  route  to  the 
banks  of  the  Senegal,  upon  crossing  which,  his  royal  guide,  who,  like 
otlier  guides,  required  a  present  for  his  services,  infoiTUcd  Iiim  they  were 
in  his  uncle's  dominions,  and  in  complete  safety. 

Safe  or  not  safe,  however.  Park  soon  found  that  the  stranger  and  the 
traveler  were  nowhere  beyond  tho  reach  of  extortion.  Half  of  tlie  little 
property  which  had  escaped  the  fangs  of  the  Kajaaga  people,  was  hero 
taken  from  him.  Ho  was  then  permitted  to  depart.  Among  the  honest 
negroes  Avith  Avhoin  ho  had  set  out  from  Pisania,  on  tho  Gambia,  there 
was  a  blacksmith  from  tho  interior,  avIio,  liaving  amassed  some  little 
money  upon  tho  coast,  was  now  returning  to  spend  tho  remainder  of  hia 
days  in  his  native  land.  Shortly  after  quitting  Teeseo,  tho  last  place 
where  our  traveler  had  submitted  to  legal  robbery,  ho  and  his  compan- 
ions came  Avithin  sight  of  the  blacksmith's  village.  The  news  of  his  re- 
turn, had,  it  seems,  i)receded  him.  His  brother,  accompanied  by  a  sing- 
ing-man, came  forth  to  welcome  tho  wanderer  home,  and  brought  along 
Avith  him  a  horse,  that  the  blacksmith  "  might  enter  his  native  town  in  a 
dignified  manner."  Park  and  his  companions  were  desired  to  put  a  good 
charge  of  poAvder  into  their  guns.  The  singing-man  led  the  Avay ;  the 
two  brothers  followed ;  and  the  cavalcade  was  quickly  joined  by  a  con- 
siderable number  of  the  inhabitants,  who,  by  extravagant  gestures  and 
songs  of  triumph,  testified  their  joy  at  the  return  of  their  toAvnsman. 
"  Wlien  we  arrived  at  the  blacksmith's  place  of  residence,  we  dismounted, 
and  fired  our  muskets.  The  meeting  between  him  and  his  relations  was 
very  tender ;  for  these  rude  children  of  nature,  freed  from  restmint,  dis- 
play their  emotions  in  the  strongest  and  most  expressive  manner.  Amid 
these  transports,  the  blacksmith's  aged  mother  was  led  forth,  leaning 
upon  a  stafi".  Every  one  made  way  for  her ;  and  she  stretched  out  her 
hand  to  bid  her  son  welcome.  Being  totally  blind,  she  stroked  hia 
hands,  and  arms,  and  face  Avith  great  care,  and  seemed  highly  delighted 
that  her  latter  days  were  blessed  by  his  return,  and  that  her  ears  once 
more  heard  the  music  of  his  voice.  From  this  interview,  I  was  con- 
vinced, that  whatever  difference  there  is  between  the  Negro  and  Euro- 
pean in  the  conformation  of  the  nose,  and  the  color  of  their  skin,  there  is 
none  in  the  genuine  sympathies  and  characteristic  feelings  of  our  com- 
mon nature. 

"  During  the  tumult  of  these  congratulations,  I  had  seated  myself 

7 


MtfM 


& 


e 


08 


LIFK    AND   TRAVELS    OF    MUNOO    PARK. 


apart,  by  tlic  Hide  of  ono  of  tlu*  lints,  Itcinij  unwillin-j  to  liitfrnipt  the 
flow  of  filial  and  parcntiil  ti'iulcriii'ss;  iind  tlio  attuntioii  of  tlic  company 
was  so  entirely  taken  up  with  tlie  blacksinitli,  that  I  bi'Iievc  none  of  his 
friends  Iiad  observetl  me.  When  all  thcpe«)ple  present  ha<l  seated  them- 
selves, the  bineksmith  w.is  desired  by  his  futiier  to  give  some  areount  of 
liis  adventures  ;  and  silenee  behig  commanded  he  beg.aii ;  and  after  re- 
peatedly thanking  God  for  the  bucccsh  that  had  attended  liim,  related 
every  material  occurrence  that  had  happened  to  him  from  his  leaving 
Kiisson  to  his  arrival  at  the  Gambia ;  his  employment  and  success  in 
those  parts ;  and  the  dangers  ho  had  escaped  in  returning  to  liis  native 
country.  In  the  latter  part  of  his  narration,  he  had  frequent  occasion  to 
mention  me ;  and  after  many  strong  expressions  conceniing  my  kindness 
to  him,  lie  pointed  to  the  place  where  I  sat,  and  exclaimed,  ^iffllle  ibi 
siriiKj  (see  him  sitting  there).  In  a  moment  all  eyes  were  turned  upon 
mo.  I  appeared  like  a  being  dropped  from  the  clouds ;  every  ono  wa.s 
.surprised  that  they  had  not  observed  mo  before ;  and  a  few  women  and 
children  expressed  great  uneasiness  at  being  so  near  a  man  of  such  an 
imcommon  appearance.  By  degrees,  however,  their  apprehensions  sub- 
sided, and  when  the  blacksmith  assured  them  I  was  perfectly  inoflfensivc, 
some  of  them  ventured  so  far  as  to  examine  the  texture  of  my  clothes; 
but  many  of  them  were  still  very  suspicious,  and  when  by  accident  I 
happened  to  move  myself,  or  look  at  the  young  children,  their  mothers 
would  scamper  off  with  them  with  the  greatest  precipitation.  In  a  few 
hours,  however,  they  all  became  reconciled  to  me." 

With  those  honest  people  Park  remained  during  the  whole  of  that 
day  and  the  next,  and  then,  accompanied  by  the  worthy  blacksmith,  who 
declared  that  he  would  not  quit  him  during  his  stay  in  that  part  of  the 
country,  set  forward  toward  Kooniakary.  On  his  arrival  at  this  city  he 
obtained  an  audience  of  the  king,  a  fine  old  man,  who,  for  his  conduct 
both  in  peace  and  war,  was  greatly  beloved  by  his  subjects.  His  beha- 
vior toward  the  stranger  was  not  inconsistent  with  his  character.  Ho 
informed  him  with  apparent  regret,  that  the  direct  route  to  Bambarra 
was  about  to  bo  closed  by  war ;  but,  after  vainly  advising  his  guest  to 
retrace  his  footsteps,  added,  that  there  yet  remained  some  hopes  of 
peace,  respecting  the  validity  of  which  he  should  be  able  to  pronounce 
an  opinion  in  the  course  of  four  or  five  days.  In  the  mean  w^hilo  be  in- 
vited Park  to  remiun  in  the  neighborhood. 

On  the  1st  of  February,  1796,  the  king's  messenger  returned  from 
the  contiguous  kingdom  of  Kaarta,  bringing  intelligence  that  the  Bam- 
barra army  had  not  yet  entered  the  country,  and  that  it  was  possible  the 
traveler  might  be  enabled  to  traverse  it  before  the  invasion  should  take 
place.  Accordingly,  being  provided  with  two  guides  by  the  king.  Park 
took  leave  of  his  friend  the  blacksmith,  and  set  forward  on  his  dangerous 
journey.  The  country,  at  all  times  thickly  peopled,  now  swarmed  with 
fugitives,  \shom  the  fear  of  the  Bambarrans  had  terrified  from  their 
homes.    Tlic  scenery  in  many  places  was  romantically  wild.     "  On  com- 


ey^ 

hisi 

a 

rel 

flo 

Wh 


an 


ARK. 

to  interrupt  the 
of  Iho  compmiy 
Ucvc  iioiu"  of  his 
liiiil  seutod  tliem- 
!  80inc  account  of 
m;  ami  aft»r  rc- 
idcd  him,  riUited 
from  hi!*  leaving 
it  and  success  in 
uing  to  liis  native 
squent  occasion  to 
•ning  my  kindness 
laimed,  ^IffiUn  ibi 
were  turned  upon 
Is ;  every  one  was 
a  few  women  and 
a  man  of  such  an 
apprehensions  sub- 
crfectly  inoffensive, 
uro  of  my  clothes; 
hen  by  accident  I 
Iron,  their  mothers 
[)itation.    In  a  few 


the  whole  of  that 
!hy  blacksmith,  who 

in  that  part  of  the 
rrival  at  this  city  he 
rho,  for  his  conduct 
subjects.    His  beha- 

his  character.    Ho 

route  to  Bambarra 
Ivising  his  guest  to 
med  some  hopes  of 
0  able  to  pronounce 
le  mean  while  he  in- 

jnger  returned  from 
gcncc  that  the  Bam- 
,at  it  was  possible  the 
invasion  should  take 
les  by  the  king.  Park 
rard  on  his  dangerous 
d,  now  swarmed  with 
terrified  from  their 
,lly  wild.    "  On  com- 


ADVENTURK    WITH   TWO    NATIVES. 


90 


ing  In  sight  of  the  mountains  of  Footado,  we  traveled,"  snys  Park, "  with 
great  difficulty  «lown  a  stony  an<l  abrupt  precipice,  and  continued  our 
way  in  the  bed  of  a  dried  river-oourse,  where  the  trees  meeting  over  our 
heads,  made  the  place  dark  and  cool.  In  a  little  time  we  reached  the 
bottom  of  this  romantic  glen ;  an<l  about  ten  o'clock  emerged  from  be- 
tween two  rocky  liills,  and  found  ourselves  on  the  level  and  sandy  plains 
of  Kaarta.  At  noon  we  arrived  at  a  korrce,  or  watering-place,  where, 
for  a  few  strings  of  beads,  I  purchased  as  much  milk  and  com-meal  as 
we  could  eat ;  and  indeed  provisions  are  hero  so  cheap,  and  the  shep- 
herds live  in  such  afHuenco,  that  they  seldom  ask  any  return  for  what 
refreshment  a  traveler  receives  from  them." 

From  this  place,  having  prevailed  upon  his  landlord,  a  Mohammedan 
negro,  to  accompany  him  as  a  guide  to  Kemmoo,  Park  set  forward  on 
the  11th  of  February,  lie  observes,  "We  had  no  sooner  got  into  a 
dark  and  lonely  part  of  the  first  wood,  than  ho  made  a  sign  for  us  to 
stop ;  and  taking  hold  of  a  hollow  piece  of  bamboo  that  hung  as  an 
anmlct  round  his  neck,  whistled  very  loud  three  times.  I  confess  I  was 
somewhat  startled,  thinking  it  was  a  signal  for  some  of  his  companions 
to  come  and  attack  us ;  but  he  assured  me  it  was  done  merely  with  a 
view  to  ascertain  what  success  we  were  likely  to  meet  with  on  our  pres- 
ent journey.  Ho  then  dismounted,  laid  his  spear  across  the  road,  and 
having  said  a  number  of  short  prayers,  concluded  with  three  loud  whis- 
tles ;  afler  which  he  listened  for  some  time,  is  if  in  expectation  of  an 
answer,  and  receiving  none,  told  us  wo  might  proceed  without  fear,  for 
there  was  no  danger." 

Adventures  now  appeared  to  crowd  npon  the  party.  The  country 
through  which  their  road  lay  being  thickly  sprinkled  with  wild  fruit-trees, 
they  amused  themselves,  as  they  rode  slowly  along,  with  picking  and  eat- 
ing the  fruit,  "In  this  pursuit,"  says  Park,  "I  had  wandered  a  little 
from  my  people,  and  being  uncertain  whether  they  were  before  or  behind 
me,  I  hastened  to  a  rising  ground  to  look  about  me.  As  I  was  proceed- 
ing toward  this  eminence,  two  negro  horsemen,  armed  with  muskets, 
came  galloping  from  among  the  bushes.  On  seeing  them  I  made  a  full 
stop ;  the  horsemen  did  the  same ;  and  all  three  of  us  seemed  equally 
surprised  and  confounded  at  this  interview.  As  I  approached  them  their 
fears  increased,  and  one  of  them,  after  casting  on  mo  a  look  of  horror, 
rode  off  at  full  speed ;  the  other,  in  a  panic  of  fear,  put  his  hand  over  his 
eyes,  and  continued  muttering  prayers  until  his  horse,  seemingly  without 
his  rider's  knowledge,  conveyed  him  slowly  after  his  companion.  About 
a  mile  to  the  westward  they  fell  in  with  my  attendants,  to  whom  they 
related  a  frightful  story.  It  seems  their  fears  had  dressed  me  in  the 
flowing  robes  of  a  tremendous  spirit ;  and  one  of  them  affirmed,  that 
when  I  made  my  appearance,  a  cold  blast  of  wind  came  pouring  down 
upon  him  from  the  sky,  like  so  much  cold  water." 

Shortly  after  this  they  arrived  at  the  capital  of  Kaarta,  svhere  he  was 
an  objcc^  of  such  extraordinary  curiosity  to  the  populace — the  majority 


100 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF   MUNOO    PARK. 


of  whom  had  never  before  Been  a  white  man — that  they  burst  forcibly 
into  his  hut,  crowd  after  crowd.  Tliose  who  had  beheld  the  monster 
gave  way  to  those  who  had  not,  until,  as  he  observes,  the  hut  was  filled 
and  emptied  thirteen  different  times.  Here  he  found  that  the  war  with 
Bambarra  had  actually  commenced ;  that  all  communication  between  the 
countries  had  consequently  ceased ;  and  that,  if  it  was  hia  determination 
to  persevere,  it  would  bo  necessary  to  take  a  circuitous  route  through 
the  Moorish  kingdom  of  Ludamar.  The  people  of  Kaarta  were  Moham- 
medans ;  but  instead  of  the  fine  sonorous  voice  of  the  muezzin,  by  which 
the  faithful  are  elsewhere  summoned  to  their  devotions,  the  hour  of 
prayer  was  here  announced  by  t)jo  beating  of  drums,  and  blowing 
through  large  elephant's  teeth,  hollowed  out  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
resemble  bugle-horns.  The  soimd  of  these  horns  Park  thought  melodi- 
ous, and  approaching  nearer  to  the  himian  voice  than  any  other  artificial 
sound.  Being  very  desirous  to  depart  from  the  seat  of  war,  he  presented 
his  horse-pistols  and  holsters  to  the  kuig;  and  on  pressing  to  be  dis- 
missed, received  in  return  an  escort  of  eight  horsemen  to  conduct  him  to 
Jarra.  Three  of  the  king's  sons,  with  two  hundred  horsemen,  kindly  un- 
dertook to  accompany  him  a  little  way  on  his  journey. 

On  hia  arrival  at  Jarra,  in  the  kingdom  of  Ludamar,  he  dispatched  a 
messenger  to  All  who  was  then  encamped  near  Bcnowm,  soliciting  permLs- 
sion  to  pass  unmolested  through  his  territories ;  and  having  waited  four- 
teen days  for  his  reply,  a  slave  at  length  arrived  from  the  chief,  affirming 
that  he  had  been  instructed  to  conduct  the  traveler  in  safety  as  far  as 
Gooinba.  His  negro,  Johnson,  here  refused  to  follow  him  any  further, 
and  signified  his  intention  of  pushing  back  without  delay  to  Gambia ; 
upon  which  Park,  fearful  of  che  success  of  his  enterprise,  intrusted  him 
with  a  copy  of  his  journal,  reserving  another  for  himself,  directing  Lim 
to  deliver  the  papers  to  the  English  on  the  coast.  A  portion  of  his  bag- 
gage and  apparel  he  committed  to  the  care  of  a  slave-merchant  at  Jarra, 
who  was  known  to  Dr.  Laidley.  He  then  departed,  with  his  slave-boy, 
accompanied  by  the  chiefs  messenger.  On  the  road  he  was  robbed  6nce 
more  by  the  Moors,  who  added  insult  to  violence ;  and  when  he  was 
nearly  perishing  from  thirst,  beat  away  his  fiiithful  slave  from  the  wells, 
without  permitting  him  to  draw  water. 

However,  after  much  fatigue  and  extraordinary  privations,  they 
arrived  in  Ali's  camp  at  Benowm,  where  Park  was  immediately  sur- 
rounded by  crowds  of  tanatical  Moors,  attracted  partly  from  curiosity, 
partly  from  a  desire  to  vent  their  fierce  zeal  against  a  Christian.  "  My 
arrival,"  says  he,  "  was  no  sooner  observed  than  the  people,  who  drew 
water  at  the  wells,  threw  down  their  buckets ;  those  in  the  tents  mounted 
their  horses,  and  men,  women,  and  children  came  running  ^ '  galloping 
toward  me.  I  soon  found  myself  surrounded  by  such  a  crowd,  that  I 
could  scarcely  move ;  one  pulled  my  clothes,  another  took  off  my  hat ; 
a  third  stopped  me  to  examine  my  waistcoat  buttons,  and  a  fourth  called 
out  *  La,  iUah  il,  allah,  Mohammed  rossool  allah  (there  is  no  God  but 


sc 
hj 
nJ 

tif 
a* 


ey  burst  forcibly- 
eld  the  monster 
;he  hut  was  filled 
hat  the  war  with 
ition  between  the 
liis  determination 
as  route  through 
trta  were  Moham- 
nuezzin,  by  which 
ons,  the  hour  of 
ims,  and  blowing 
I  a  manner  as  to 
t  thought  melodi- 
any  other  artificial 
;  war,  he  presented 
)ressing  to  be  dis- 
to  conduct  him  to 
)r8emen,  kindly  un- 


ar,  he  dispatched  a    ] 
m,  soliciting  pernus- 
having  waited  four- 
.  the  chief,  aflirming 

in  safety  as  far  as 
pw  him  any  further, 
t  delay  to  Gambia ; 
prise,  intrusted  him 
nself,  directing  him 
V  portion  of  his  bag- 
B-merchant  at  Jarra, 
I,  with  his  slave-boy, 

he  was  robbed  6nce 
,  and  when  he  was 
lave  fi:om  the  wells, 

ary  privations,  they 
/aa  immediately  sur- 
)artlyfrom  curiosity, 
,t  a  Christian.    "My 
he  people,  who  drew 
s  in  the  tents  mounted 
runnmg  "  gallopmg 
such  a  crowd,  that  I 
her  took  off  my  hat ; 
ns,  and  a  fourth  called 
(there  is  no  God  but 


SULTAN    ALl'S    CAMP. 


101 


God,  and  Mohammed  is  his  prophet),  and  signified,  in  a  threatening 
manner,  that  I  must  repeat  those  words.  We  rciched  at  length  the 
king's  tent,  where  we  found  a  great  number  of  people,  men,  women,  and 
children,  assembled.  Ali  was  sitting  on  a  black  leathern  cushion,  clip- 
ping a  few  hairs  from  his  upper  lip — a  female  attendant  holding  np  a 
looking-glass  before  him.  He  appeared  to  be  an  old  man  of  the  Arab 
caste,  with  a  long  white  beard,  and  he  had  a  sullen  and  indignant  aspect. 
He  surveyed  me  wi*h  attention,  and  inquired  of  the  Moors  if  I  could 
speak  Arabic ;  and  being  answered  in  the  negative,  he  appeared  much 
surprised,  and  continued  silent.  The  surrounding  attendants,  and  particu- 
larly the  ladies,  were  abundantly  more  inquisitive ;  they  asked  a  thousand 
questions,  inspected  every  part  of  my  apparel,  searched  my  pockets,  and 
obliged  me  to  unbutton  my  waistcoat  and  display  the  whiteness  of  my 
skin ;  they  even  counted  my  toes  and  fingers,  as  if  they  doubted  whether 
I  was  in  truth  a  human  being." 


SULTAN    ALl'STLHT     AT     BE.HOWM. 

Ali  now,  with  the  base  idea  of  insulting  an  unprotected  stranger, 
ordered  a  wild  boar  to  be  brought  in,  which  he  signified  his  desire  that 
Park  should  kill  and  eat.  This,  well  knowing  their  religious  prejudices, 
he,  of  course,  refused  to  do ;  upon  which  the  boys  who  led  in  the  boar 
were  commanded  to  let  it  loose  upon  him,  the  Moors  supposing  that 
there  exists  an  inveterate  feud  between  pigs  and  Christians,  and  that  it 
would  immediately  run  upon  and  gore  him.  Tho  boar,  however,  was 
more  magnanimous.  Scorning  to  attack  a  defenseless  foreigner,  he  no 
sooner  found  himself  at  liberty  than,  brandishing  his  tusks  at  the  natives, 
he  rushed  at  them  indiscriminately,  and  then,  to  complete  their  conster- 
nation, took  shelter  under  the  very  couch  upon  which  the  tyrant  was  sit- 
ting. This  bold  i)rocceding  of  the  unclean  beast  dissolved  the  assembly, 
and  the  traveler  was  led  away  to  the  tent  of  a  slave,  in  front  of  which, 


102 


LIFE 


AND    TRAVELS    OF    MUNaO    PARK. 


^"'^  •     1  „  iittlP  food     Il«rc  ho  like- 

not  being  pevmitted  to  enter,  he  ^2^^^J^'^:^L^^,y  i^.o  curious 
Z.  l-.od  the  night,  lymg  "P^  ^^^^  J^^^^^^^  was  given  to 

r t^ihertSr^^^^^^^^^  -  ^-  ^^  ^  ^^"^  "^ 

the 'end  of  it.  us  his  finest  3^;^^^^^^^^^^  ,«  eonceive  that  the  Christian 

By  degrees,  ^<>^^'''^'^^^'"Ztv^^  useful,  but  could  thu>k  of  no 
mieht,  m  one  way  or  another,  be  ren^iu  c  ^^  j^^ 

b  fter  employment  for  !"- ^^-V^tLeLrort^.e  head  of  the  young 
Lde  his  first  attempt^!  the  ^oy^ /^^^^^^^^  l^^  „«  great  desire  to  mo- 
prince  of  Ludamar.     This  ^^8^"^"'!  ^^^^^^       operation,  for  he  ahnost 

C^olize,  and  lus  --^^^'^^Z::'-rt7Xv^'<^^^^  ^-^'  ^^^^'^^,  T 
at  the  outset  made  an  ^^^  "^^^^^  J^^^!  mortal.  AU  seemed  by 
duced  him  once  more  to  the  ^'f^'^^  ^^^  ether  with  his  services, 
no  means  desirous,  however,  «*  ^^^^^^^^  same,inotives  which  induce 

wishmg,  perhaps,  to  preserve  l^'^  « ^^Xe,  to  render  his  escape  the 
U9  to  preserve  a  wild  beast;  and,  tj^^^^^^^^^     ^  ^is  baggage,  mclud- 

^o^^eiVcti-^^«'^<>«^rTreof tr^^^^^^  compasses,  the  other 
inp  his  gold,  amber,  watch,  and  one  «f  ^«  P°S  t^.e^floor  of  his  hut. 
"f  had'ortunately  ^--\-  J;V;:^^^^^^^^  avarice,  but  the 

The  gold  and  amber  were  ^^S^^^^  ^ra^,  ^J^S  ^^^  ^^  ^^^iosity.  "  Ah 
pockft  compass  «o«\^««T«  "^.^^iTthat  sS  piece  of  iron,  the  needle, 
was  very  desirous  to  be  ^"^'^^^^''7**71  found  myself  somevhat  puz- 
Tays  pointed  to  tbe  Great  Deser,and^^^^^^^^ 

.led  to  answer  the  ^-^7;^  J^a^J  ^-^  *^«' ^'^  ^'"'^  '""l  T  Sa 
created  a  suspicion  that  I  ^^^^^f^'"  .^^^  far  beyond  the  sands  of  Sa- 
therefore  told  bim  that  my  mother  resided  *a       y^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^, 

hara,and  that  while  she  was  ^ve  the  P^^^^  and  that  if  she  wa. 

that  way,  and  serve  as  a  gmde  to  conduc^^m  ^^  ^^^  ^omp^  with 

dead  it  would  point  to  her  grav  e     ^U  "  repeatedly,  but  ob- 

ous  an  mstrument  in  his  possession.  ^,^^^  gi^ould 

^"it  now  began  to  be  ^^^^^^^Xi^^^^^^^^^       dissimilar.   Some 
be  done  with  their  pr^onev.    Their  decision  ^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^^^ 

were  of  opinion  that  ho  should  be  V^^^/'^  ^^^^^,  ,^^,  his  eyes 
merely  lose  his  right  hand  while  a  third  P  V  ^^^^^  ^^^,  ^.ttera 
ought'to  be  put  out.  Ah  ^^^f^^'^^^^Xi^^  then  in  the  north, 
should  remain  as  they  ;^«-;"^^^X^^^^  related  to  our  traveler, 

had  seen  him.    Meanwhile  all  these  repms  His  demand  to 

and  tended  not  a  Uttle  to  distress  and  ^^^^^^  ^?hTaccuniulated  horrors 
be  pennitted  to  depart  was  tormaUy  refused^  ^^  ^^^^^^         ^j^, 

of  his  situation,united  witji  the  want  of  tood  a  ,_^  tio„  from 

on  a  fever,  by  ^^^^V'f  ^11?   S^phic^^^  ^  «^^^^  '"'"^  ^' 
the  Moors  did  not  therefore  ceast.     iuey  p  ^^ 


RK. 

Ilorc  ho  like- 
by  llie  curious 
is,  was  givcu  to 
d  to  a  stuko  in 

lat  the  Christian 
ould  think  of  no 
this  capacity  he 
ad  of  the  young 
•eat  desire  to  mo- 
ion,  for  he  aUnost 
head,  quickly  re- 
.    Ali  seemed  by 
with  his  services, 
ives  which  induce 
er  his  escape  the 
i  baggage,  includ- 
npasses,  the  other 
e  floor  of  his  hut. 
(h  avarice,  hut  the 
18  curiosity.    "Ah 
of  iron,  the  needle, 
self  somev.hat  puz- 
lorance  would  have 
[  truth  from  hun ;  I 
id  the  sands  of  Sa- 
■vvould  always  point 
;  and  that  if  she  was 
at  the  compass  with 
repeatedly,  but  ob- 
00k  it  up  with  great 
e  thought  therd  was 
f  keeping  so  danger- 
advisers  what  should 
ery  dissunilar.   Some 
thers  that  ho  should 
nought  that  his  eyes 
irmined  that  matters 
la,  then  in  the  north, 
;lated  to  our  traveler, 
lind.    His  demand  to 
i  accumulated  horrors 
3ep,  at  length  brought 
,t  his  persecution  from 
I  his  cloak  from  him, 


MOORISH    TYRANNY. 


103 


they  overwhelmed  him  with  insults,  tlioy  tortured  him  like  some  fero- 
cious animal,  for  their  amusement,  and  when,  to  escape  from  this  detest- 
able thraldom,  lie  crawled  away  to  a  short  distance  from  the  camp,  he 
was  forced  back  by  menaces  and  violence. 

At  length,  after  more  than  a  month's  detention  at  Bcnowm,  he  was 
commanded  to  follow  Ali  to  the  northern  encampment  of  Bubakcr,  on 
the  skirts  of  the  Great  Desert,  and  on  the  way  endured  the  extremity 
of  hunger,  thirst,  and  fatigue.  Upon  an-iving  at  Bubaker,  ho  was  shown 
as  a  strange  animal  to  Fatima,  who,  though  far  from  being  exempt  from 
the  Moori^»h  prejudices  against  a  Christian,  or  in  any  remarkable  degree 
disposed  to  humanity,  still  treated  him  with  somewhat  gi-oater  lenity 
than  the  rest  of  the  Moors ;  and,  upon  the  departure  of  her  husband  for 
Jarra,  not  only  obtained  him  permission  to  join  the  party,  but  prevailed 
upon  the  tyr.int  to  rcjtoro  him  his  liorse,  saddle,  and  bridle,  together 
Avith  a  part  of  liis  apparel.  His  faithful  black  boy,  Deraba,  however, 
was  taken  from  him,  notwithstanding  his  animated  remonstrances  to  Ali, 
who,  upon  his  pressing  the  point  rather  warmly,  only  replied,  that  if  ho 
did  not  instantly  mount  his  horse  and  depart  ho  should  share  the  fate  of 
his  slivvo.  "  There  is  something  in  the  fi-own  of  a  tyrant,"  says  Park, 
"which  rouses  the  most  secret  emotions  ol  the  heart.  I  could  not  su})- 
press  my  feelings,  and  for  once  entertained  an  indignant  wish  to  rid  the 
world  of  such  a  monster.  Poor  Demba  was  not  less  aiFected  than  my- 
self;  he  liad  formed  a  strong  attachment  toward  me,  and  had  a  cheer- 
fidness  of  disposition  which  often  beguiled  the  tedii  )us  hours  of  captivity. 
He  was  likewise  a  proficient  in  the  Bambarra  tongue,  and  promised,  on 
that  account,  to  be  of  great  use  to  mo  in  future.  But  it  was  in  vain  to 
expect  any  thing  favorable  to  humanity  from  a  people  who  are  strangers 
to  its  dictates.  So,  having  shaken  hands  with  this  unfortunate  boy,  and 
blended  my  tears  with  his,  assuring  him,  however,  I  would  do  my  best 
to  redeem  him,  I  saw  him  led  off  by  three  of  All's  slaves  toward  the 
camp  of  Bubaker." 

Upon  his  arrival  at  Jarra,  where  he  was  shortly  afterward  transferred 
by  Ali  to  tyrants  of  a  lower  grade,  his  condition,  fer  from  being  im- 
proved, was  only  rendered  the  more  intolerable.  The  city  itself,  more- 
over, was  in  a  state  of  the  utmost  confusion.  Malcontents  from  Kaarta 
liaving  taken  refuge  there,  had  recently  made  an  incursion  into  their 
native  country,  carried  off  a  large  quantity  of  plimder,  and  thus  drawn 
the  vengeance  of  their  king  against  the  city.  All  those  who  had  reason 
to  dread  his  resentment  were  now,  therefore,  preparing  to  fly  into  Bam- 
barra ;  and  Park,  whose  route  lay  in  the  same  direction,  became  exceed- 
ingly desirous  of  effecting  his  escape  from  the  Moors,  that  he  might  seize 
r.:pon  this  fortunate  occasion  of  fulfilling  the  object  of  his  mission. 
"  Their  departure,"  says  he,  speaking  of  the  black  fugitives,  "  was  very 
affecting :  the  women  and  children  crying,  the  men  sullen  and  dejected, 
and  all  of  them  looking  back  with  regret  on  their  native  town  ;  and  on 
the  wells  and  rocks  beyond  which  their  ambition  had  never  tempted 


104 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS   OP   MUNGO   PARK. 


them  to  stray,  and  where  they  liad  laid  all  their  plans  of  future  happiness, 
all  of  Avhich  they  were  now  forced  to  abandon,  and  to  seek  shelter  mnong 
strangers." 

IIoj)ing  to  escape  in  this  confused  throng,  he  mounted  his  horse,  and 
taking  a  bag  of  corn  before  him,  rode  slowly  off  along  with  the  towns- 
])eopIe.  On  their  arrival  fkt  Queira,  a  village  at  no  great  distance  from 
the  city.  Park  began  to  flatter  himself  that  he  had  really  eluded  the 
vigilance  of  his  persecutors,  but  before  the  agreeable  idea  had  got  a  firm 
footing  in  his  mind,  he  saw  All's  chief  slave,  accompanied  by  four  Moors, 
arrive,  and  take  up  their  lodgings  with  the  dooty.  Johnson,  Park's 
interpreter  (who  had  been  seized  by  All's  order  before  he  could  leave 
Jarra),  suspecting  the  design  of  this  visit,  sent  two  boys  to  overhear 
their  conversation,  by  which  means  ho  learned  that  it  was  their  intention 
ti .  carry  Park  back  to  Bubaker.  Upon  this  ho  at  once  carao  to  the  dcs- 
j>i  "j'te  resolution  to  effect  that  very  night  his  deliverance  from  his  pur- 
suers, or  to  perish  in  the  attempt.  Johnson,  who  applauded  this  deter- 
mination, but  wanted  the  courage  to  imitate  it,  was  nevertheless  exceed- 
ingly well  disposed  to  aid  in  eftccting  his  master's  escape.  He  therefore 
undertook  to  keep  watch  upon  the  movements  of  the  enemy,  while  Park 
was  preparing  for  flight.  About  midnight  he  got  all  his  apparel  in  readi- 
ness, which  consisted  of  two  shirts,  two  pair  of  trousers,  two  pocket- 
handkerchiefs,  an  upper  and  under  waistcoat,  a  hat,  a  pair  of  half  boots, 
and  a  cloak.  Besides  these  things  he  had  not  in  his  possession  a  single 
bead  or  any  other  article  Avith  which  to  purchase  food  for  himself,  or 
jtrovcnder  for  his  horse.  "  About  daybreak,  Johnson,  who  had  been 
listening  to  the  Moors  all  night,  came,"  says  he,  "  and  whispered  to  mo 
that  they  were  all  asleep.  The  awful  crisis  was  now  arrived  when  I  was 
again  either  to  taste  the  blessings  of  freedom,  or  languish  out  my  days 
in  captivity.  A  cold  sweat  moistened  my  forehead  as  I  thought  of  tho 
dreadful  alternative,  and  reflected  that  one  way  or  the  other,  my  fixto 
must  be  decided  in  the  course  of  the  ensuing  day.  But  to  dellberato 
was  to  lose  the  only  chance  of  escaping.  So  taking  up  my  bundle,  I 
stepped  gently  over  the  negroes  Avho  were  sleeping  in  tho  open  air,  and, 
having  mounted  ray  horse,  I  bade  Johnson  farewell,  desiring  him  to  take 
jiarticular  care  of  my  papers  I  had  intrusted  him  with,  and  inform  my 
filcnds  in  Gambia  that  he  had  left  me  in  good  health  on  my  way  to  Bara- 
barru.  I  proceeded  with  great  caution,  surveying  each  bush,  and  fre- 
qjiently  listening  and  looking  behind  me  for  the  Moorish  horeemen,  until 
I  was  about  a  mile  from  tho  town,  when  I  was  surprised  to  find  myself 
in  the  neighborhood  of  a  korrec,  belonging  to  the  Moors.  Tlie  shepherds 
followed  me  for  about  a  mile,  hooting  and  throwing  stones  after  me; 
and  when  I  was  out  of  their  reach,  and  had  begtm  to  itidulgc  the  pleas- 
ing hope  of  escaping,  T  was  again  greatly  alarmed  to  hear  somebody 
halloo  behind  me,  and,  looking  back,  I  saw  three  Moore  on  horseback 
coming  after  me  at  full  speod,  wliooping  and  brandishing  their  double- 
V>avrel  guns.    I  knew  it  was  in  vain  to  think  of  esiaping,  and  therefore 


RK. 


iitnrc  happiness, 
k  shelter  among 

d  his  horse,  and 
with  the  towns- 
at  distance  from 
pally  eluded  the 
■a  had  got  a  firm 
1  by  four  Moors, 
Johnson,  Park's 
>  he  could  leave 
oys  to  overhear 
as  their  intention 
came  to  the  des- 
nco  from  his  pur- 
lauded  this  deter- 
rertheless  exceed- 
po.    He  therefore 
memy,  while  Park 
8  apparel  in  readi- 
isers,  two  pocket- 
pair  of  half  boots, 
possession  a  single 
»od  for  himself,  or 
on,  who  had  been 
d  whispered  to  me 
irrived  when  I  was 
juish  out  my  days 
18  I  thought  of  the 
the  other,  my  fate 
But  to  deliberate 
g  up  my  bundle,  I 
1  the  open  air,  and, 
iesiring  him  to  take 
ith,  and  inform  my 
on  my  way  to  Bara- 
each  bush,  and  fre- 
)rish  horsemen,  until 
ised  to  find  myself 
ors.    Tlie  shepherds 
,g  stones  after  me; 
to  indulge  the  pleas- 
[  to  hear  somebody 
Moors  on  horseback 
lishing  their  double- 
aping,  and  therefore 


I 


t 


i 


i 


Ui 


Mmi^ 


m 


!    "     If'',       .f   1,1 'Ml 


Ju  '■■  I    '  \i  iji 


„!■    ^'il*! 


,,'|l?f  J-'lWil  ,!:|||iiP'P.'  ' 


I 


I 


PR08PKCT    OF    DEATU. 


106 


turned  back  and  met  thorn,  when  two  of  them  canghthold  of  my  bridle, 
one  on  each  side,  and  tho  third,  presenting  his  nmsket,  told  nie  I  must 
go  back  to  AH." 

It  soon  appeared,  liowovcr,  that  those  gentlemen  were  merely  i>rivato 
robbers,  who  were  fearful  that  their  master  liad  not  sufficiently  pillaged 
tho  stranger ;  for,  after  examining  liis  bundle,  and  plundering  him  of  his 
cloak,  they  bade  him  begone,  and  follow  them  no  further.  Too  happy 
to  bo  rid  of  the  villains  at  any  rate,  ho  immediately  struck  into  the  woods 
and  continued  his  journey.  His  joy  at  thus  escaping  from  the  Moors 
was  quickly  damped  by  the  consideration  that  he  must  very  soon  be  in 
want  of  both  food  and  water,  neither  of  which  could  he  procure  without 
approaching  villages  or  wells,  where  ho  would  almost  inevitably  en- 
counter his  old  enemies.  He  therefore  pushed  on  with  all  the  vigor  of 
■which  ho  was  possessed,  in  the  hope  of  reaching  some  town  or  village 
of  the  kingdom  of  Bambarra.  But  he  already  began  to  experience  tho 
tortures  of  thirst;  his  mouth  was  parched  and  inflamed;  a  sudden 
dimness,  accompanied  by  symptoms  of  fainting,  would  frequently  como 
over  his  eyes ;  and  as  his  horse  also  was  exceedingly  fatigued,  he  began 
to  apprehend  that  he  should  perish  of  thirst.  Some  shrubs,  the  leaves 
of  which  ho  chewed  to  relieve  the  burning  pain  in  his  mouth  and  throat, 
were  all  found  to  be  bitter  and  of  no  service.  "  A  little  before  sunset, 
having  reached  the  top  of  a  gentle  rising,"  says  Park,  *'  I  climbed  a 
high  tree,  from  the  topmost  branches  of  which  I  cast  a  melancholy  look 
over  the  barren  wilderness,  but  Avithout  discovering  tho  most  distant 
trace  of  a  human  dwelling.  The  same  dismal  uniformity  of  shrubs  and 
s.and  everywhere  presented  itself,  and  the  horizon  was  level  and  uninter- 
rupted as  that  of  the  sea. 

"  Descending  from  tho  tree,  I  found  my  horse  devouring  the  stubblo 
and  brushwood  with  great  avidity ;  and  as  I  was  now  too  faint  to  at- 
tempt walking,  and  my  horse  too  much  fatigued  to  carry  me,  I  thought 
it  but  an  act  of  humanity,  and  perhaps  the  last  I  should  ever  have  it  in 
my  power  to  perform,  to  take  off  his  bridle  and  let  him  shift  for  him- 
self; in  doing  which,  I  was  affected  with  sickness  and  giddiness ;  and, 
falling  upon  the  sand,  felt  as  if  the  hour  of  death  was  fast  approaching. 
Here  then  (thought  I),  after  a  short  but  ineffectual  struggle,  terminate 
all  my  hopes  of  being  useful  in  my  day  and  generation — here  must  the 
short  span  of  my  life  como  to  an  end.  I  cast,  as  I  believed,  a  last  look 
on  the  surrounding  scene,  and  while  I  reflected  on  the  a'wful  change  that 
was  about  to  take  place,  this  world  and  its  enjoyments  seemed  to  vanish 
from  my  recollection.  Nature,  however,  at  length  resumed  its  func- 
tions ;  and  on  recovering  my  senses  I  found  myself  stretched  upon  tho 
sand,  with  the  bridle  still  in  my  hand,  and  the  sun  just  sinking  behind 
the  trees.  I  now  summoned  all  my  resolution,  and  determined  to  make 
another  effort  to  prolong  my  existence:  and,  as  the  evening  was  some- 
what cool,  I  resolved  to  travel  as  far  as  my  limbs  would  carry  me,  in 
hopes  of  reaching  (my  only  resource)  a  watering-place.    With  this  view 


100 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    MUNGO    PARK. 


I  put  tlie  biulle  upon  my  horse,  and  driving  him  before  me,  went  slowly 
along  ibr  ubout  an  hour,  wlicn  I  perceived  some  lightning  from  the 
north-cast — :*  most  delightful  sight,  for  it  promised  rain.  The  darkness 
and  lightning  increased  very  rapidly;  and  in  less  than  an  hour  I  heard 
the  wind  roaring  behind  the  bushes.  I  had  already  opened  my  ffouth 
to  receive  the  refreshing  drops  which  I  expected :  but  I  was  instantly 
covered  with  a  cloud  of  sand,  driven  with  such  force  by  the  wind  as  to 
gi\o  a  very  disagreeable  sensation  to  my  face  and  arms;  and  I  was 
oliliged  to  mount  my  horse  and  stop  under  a  bush  to  prevent  being  suf- 
focated. The  sand  continued  to  fly  for  near  an  hour  in  amazing  quan- 
tities, after  which  I  again  set  forward,  and  traveled  with  difficulty  until 
ten  o'clock.  About  this  time  I  was  agreeably  surprised  by  some  very 
vivid  flashes  of  lightning,  followed  by  a  few  heavy  drops  of  rain.  In  a 
little  time  the  sand  ceased  to  fly,  and  I  alighted  and  spread  out  all  my 
clean  clothes  to  collect  the  rain,  which  at  length  I  saw  would  certainly 
fall.  For  more  than  an  hour  it  rained  plentifully,  and  I  quenched  my 
thirst  by  wringing  and  sucking  my  clothes. 

"There  being  no  moon,  it  was  remarkably  dark;  so  that  I  was 
obliged  to  lead  my  horse,  and  direct  my  way  by  the  compass,  which  the 
lightning  enabled  me  to  observe.  In  this  manner  I  traveled  with  toler- 
able expedition  until  past  midnight ;  when  the  lightning  became  more 
distant,  and  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  groping  along,  to  the  no  small 
danger  of  my  hands  and  eyes.  About  two  o'clock  my  horse  started  at 
something ;  and,  looking  around,  I  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  see  a  light 
at  a  short  distance  among  the  trees,  and  supposing  it  to  be  a  town,  I 
groped  along  the  sand  in  hopes  of  finding  corn-stalks,  cotton,  or  other 
appearances  of  cultivation,  but  found  none.  As  I  approached,  I  per- 
ceived a  number  of  other  lights  in  different  places,  and  began  to  suspect 
that  I  had  fallen  upon  a  party  of  Moors.  However,  in  my  present 
situation,  I  was  resolved  to  see  who  they  were,  if  I  could  do  it  with 
safety.  I  accordingly  led  my  horse  cautiously  toward  the  light,  and 
heard  by  the  lowing  of  the  cattle,  and  the  clamorous  tongues  of  the 
herdsmen,  that  it  was  a  watering-place,  and  most  likely  belonged  to  the 
floors.  Delightful  as  the  sound  of  the  human  voice  was  to  me,  I  re- 
solved once  more  to  strike  into  the  woods,  and  rather  run  the  risk  of 
perishing  with  hunger,  than  trust  myself  again  in  their  hands;  but 
being  still  thirsty,  and  dreading  the  approach  of  the  burning  day,  I 
thought  it  prudent  to  search  for  the  wells,  which  I  expected  to  find  at 
no  great  distance.  In  this  pursuit  I  inadvertently  approached  so  near 
one  of  the  tents  as  to  be  perceived  by  a  woman,  who  immediately 
screamed  out.  The  people  came  running  to  her  assistance  from  some  of 
the  neighboring  tents,  and  passed  so  very  near  me  that  I  thought  I  was 
discovered,  and  hastened  again  into  the  woods. 

"  About  a  mile  from  this  place  I  heard  a  loud  and  confused  noise, 
somewhere  to  the  right  of  my  course,  and  in  a  short  time  was  happy  to 
find  it  was  the  croaking  of  frogs,  which  was  heavenly  music  to  my  ears. 


see 
wii 
as 

Ids 
mc 
W 
thi 
cai 


) 


ARK. 

J  me,  went  slowly 
ghtning  from  the 
in.  The  darkness 
1  an  hour  I  heard  ' 
jpened  my  irouth  | 
ut  I  was  instantly 
by  the  wind  as  to    , 

arms;  and  I  was  , 
prevent  being  suf-  | 
r  in  amazing  quan-  \ 
vith  difficulty  until 
ised  by  some  very  , 
rops  of  rain.    In  a    j 

spread  out  all  my  | 
aw  would  certainly  | 
nd  I  quenched  my    j 

,rk;  so  that  I  was     ^ 
compass,  which  the     | 
traveled  with  toler-     | 
tning  became  more     I 
ang,  to  the  no  small     ^ 
my  horse  started  at 
prised  to  see  a  light     - 
r  it  to  be  a  town,  I 
Iks,  cotton,  or  other     , 
;  approached,  I  per- 
ind  began  to  suspect 
ver,  in  my  present 
r  I  could  do  it  with 
ward  the  light,  and 
irous  tongues  of  the 
kely  belonged  to  the 
ice  was  to  me,  I  re- 
ither  run  the  risk  of 
in  their  hands;  but 
'  the  burning  day,  I 
I  expected  to  find  at 
y  approached  so  near 
an,  who  immediately 
aistance  from  some  of 
!  that  I  thought  I  was 

id  and  confused  noise, 
.rt  time  was  happy  to 
jnly  music  to  my  ears. 


APPROACU    TO   THE    NIOKIl. 


107 


I  followed  the  souml,  and  at  daybreak  arrived  at  some  tiliullow  muddy 
pools,  so  full  of  frogs  that  it  was  difficult  to  disoorn  tlio  water.  The 
noise  they  made  frightened  my  horse,  and  I  waa  obliged  to  keep  tlieni 
quiet  by  beating  the  water  with  a  branch  until  lie  had  drunk.  Having 
here  quenched  my  thirst,  I  ascended  a  tree,  and  the  moniing  being  elear, 
I  soon  perceived  the  smoke  of  the  wateiing-place  wliich  I  had  )m».sod  hi 
the  night,  and  observed  another  pillar  of  sniuke,  east-south-east,  distant 
twelve  or  fourteen  miles." 

Toward  this  column  of  smoke,  which,  as  he  was  informed,  arose  from 
a  Foulah  village,  ho  now  directed  his  course ;  but  on  arri>  ing  at  the 
place,  was  inhospitably  driven  from  every  door,  except  that  of  an  old 
woman,  who  kindly  received  him  into  her  dwelHng,  and  funiished  him 
with  food  for  himself,  and  Avith  provender  for  his  horse.  Even  here, 
however,  the  influence  of  Ali  pursued  him  like  his  evil  genius.  The 
people  who  had  collected  round  him  while  he  was  eating,  began,  aa  ho 
clearly  discovered  from  their  expressions,  to  form  the  design  of  carrying 
him  back  once  more  to  Benowm  or  Bubaker.  lie  therefore  hastened 
his  departure,  and  having  wandered  among  the  woods  all  day,  passed 
the  night  under  a  tree.  In  this  way  lie  continued  his  journey,  some- 
times meeting  Avith  hospitality,  but  more  frequently  avoiding  the  dwell- 
ings of  man,  and  subsisting  upon  the  wild  produce  of  tlie  woods,  and  the 
water  of  a  few  pools,  to  which  the  croaking  of  the  frogs  directed  him. 

At  length  he  entered  the  kingdom  of  Bambarra,  where  he  found  tho 
people  more  hospitable  in  proportion  as  they  were  more  opulent  than 
their  neighbors.  Cultivation  was  here  carried  on  in  a  spirited  manner, 
and  on  an  extensive  scale,  and  "  hunger,"  as  tho  natives  expressed  it, 
"  was  never  known."  Tho  country  itself  was  beautiful,  intersected  on 
all  sides  by  rivulets,  which,  after  a  rain-storm,  were  swelled  into  rapid 
streams.  Park's  horse  was  now  so  attenuated  by  fatigue  that  it  appeared 
like  a  mere  skeleton,  which  tho  traveler,  fearing  to  mount,  drove  before 
hini,  as  if  to  scare  away  the  crows.  The  Bambarrans,  whose  hospitable 
disposition  was  accompanied  by  but  little  delicacy,  were  infinitely 
amused  at  this  droll  spectacle.  Taking  him  for  a  Moor,  they  supposed 
from  his  appearance  that  he  must  be  one  of  those  religious  mendicants 
who,  having  performed  the  pilgrimage  to  the  holy  cities,  thenceforward 
consider  themselves  fully  entitled  to  subsist  upon  the  labors  of  their  in- 
dustrious co-religionists.  " '  He  has  been  at  Mecca,'  said  one ; '  you  may 
see  that  by  his  clothes.'  Another  asked  if  my  horse  was  sick ;  a  third 
wished  to  purchase  it,  &c.  So  that  I  believe  the  very  slaves  were 
ashamed  to  be  seen  in  my  company." 

However,  in  spite  of  all  this  laughter  and  ridicule,  he  proceeded  on 
his  way,  and  at  length  had  the  satisfaction  to  be  informed  that  on  the 
morrow  he  should  see  the  Niger,  denominated  Joliba,  or  the  "  Great 
Water,"  by  the  natives.  Next  morning,  the  21st  of  July,  after  passing 
through  several  large  villages,  he  saw  the  smoke  ascend  over  Sego,  the 
capital  of  Bambarra,  and  felt  elate  with  joy  at  the  thought  of  drawing 


nmt 


108 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS   OF    MUNOO    PARK. 


near  sn  imj)ortant  an  object  of  liis  mission.  "  As  wo  approached  the 
town,"  says  Park,  "  I  was  fortunate  onoujjh  to  overtake  the  fugitive 
Kaartans,  to  whose  kindness  I  had  been  so  much  indebted  in  my 
journey  through  Bambarra.  Tliey  readily  agreed  to  introduce  me  to 
the  king,  and  wo  rode  together  through  some  marshy  ground,  where, 
an  I  anxiously  looked  around  for  the  river,  ono  of  them  called  out  Geo 
affilli  (see  tho  water) ;  and,  looking  forward,  I  saw  Avith  infinite  pleas- 
ure the  great  object  of  my  mission — the  long  sought-for,  majestic  Niger, 
glittering  in  tho  morning  sun,  as  broad  as  tho  Thames  at  Westminster, 
and  flowing  slowly  to  the  eastward,  I  hastened  to  tho  brink,  and, 
having  drimk  of  the  water,  lifted  up  my  fervent  thanks  in  prayer  to 
the  Great  Ruler  of  all  things  for  having  thus  far  crowned  ray  endeavors 
with  success." 

Sego,  tlie  capital  of  Bambarra,  consisted  of  four  distinct  towns,  two 
on  the  northern,  and  two  on  tho  southern  bank  of  the  Niger.  Tlie  king 
at  this  period  resided  on  the  southern  bank,  while  Park  had  arrived  on 
the  opposite  side.  Tho  communication  between  the  different  quarters 
of  tho  city  was  kept  np  by  means  of  largo  canoes,  which  were  con- 
stantly passing  and  repassing ;  notwithstanding  wliich,  so  great  was  the 
pressure  of  passengers,  that  Park  was  compelled  to  Avait  upward  of  two 
hours  before  he  could  obtain  even  a  chance  of  beuig  ferried  over. 
Meanwhile,  the  prospect  before  him  was  novel  and  striking  in  the 
highest  degree.  "  The  view  of  this  extensive  city,"  ho  observes,  "  the 
numerous  canoes  on  tho  river,  the  crowded  population,  and  tho  cul- 
tivated state  of  the  surrounding  country  formed  altogether  a  prospect 
of  civilization  and  magnificence  which  I  littlo  expected  to  find  in  the 
bosom  of  Africa." 

While  he  was  thus  waiting  for  a  passage,  the  news  was  conveyed  to 
Mansong  that  a  white  man  was  on  the  banks  of  tho  river  coming  to  see 
him.  The  king,  who  seems  to  have  been  alarmed  at  this  intelligence, 
immediately  dispatched  a  messenger,  who  was  directed  to  inform  the 
stranger  that  he  would  not  be  admitted  into  the  royal  presence  until 
the  purport  of  his  mission  was  made  known;  and  that  in  the  mean 
while,  he  was  prohibited  from  passing  tho  river.  He  was  likewise  told 
that  the  king  desired  him  to  seek  lodgings  in  one  of  the  villages  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  capital.  As  there  was  no  allemative,  he  at  once  set  out 
for  tho  village,  where,  to  his  great  mortification,  he  found  that  no  per- 
son would  admit  him  into  a  house.  "  I  was  regarded  vnih  astonish- 
ment and  fear,"  he  observes,  "  and  was  obliged  to  sit  all  day  without 
victuals  in  the  shade  of  a  tree ;  and  the  night  threatened  to  be  very 
uncomfortable,  for  the  wind  rose,  and  there  was  great  appearance  of  a 
heavy  rain ;  and  the  wild  beasts  were  so  very  numerous  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, that  I  should  have  been  xmder  the  necessity  of  climbing  up  a 
tree,  and  resting  among  the  branches.  About  sunset,  however,  as  I  was 
preparing  to  pass  the  night  in  this  manner,  and  had  turned  my  horse 
loose  that  he  might  graze  at  liberty,  a  woman  returning  from  the  labors 


i 


RK. 

approached  the  ' 
ilvL'  the  fugitive  ! 
indebted  in  my  I 
introduce  roe  to 

ground,  wlicre, 
n  called  otit  Geo 
ith  infinite  pleas- 
•,  majestic  Niger, 

at  Westminster, 

the  brink,  and, 
nks  in  prayer  to 
jcd  ray  endeavors 

istinct  towns,  two 
Niger.  The  king 
rk  had  arrived  on 

diflTercnt  quarters 
,  which  were  con- 
j,  so  great  was  the 
ait  upward  of  two 
!Ujg  ferried  over, 
d  striking  in  the 

he  observes,  "  the 
ktion,  and  the  cul- 
;ogether  a  prospect 
cted  to  find  in  the 

'8  was  conveyed  to 
river  coming  to  see 
at  this  intelligence, 
cted  to  inform  the 
■oyal  presence  until 
I  that  in  the  mean 
e  was  likewise  told 
)fthe  villages  in  the 
,  he  at  once  set  out 
!  found  that  no  per- 
irded  Avith  astonish- 
sit  all  day  without 
reatened  to  be  very 
reat  appearance  of  a 
rous  in  the  neighbor- 
ly of  climbing  up  a 
pt,  however,  as  I  was 
ad  turned  my  horse 
ning  from  the  labors 


NATIVE    lIOSriTALITT. 


109 


of  the  field,  8to|)ped  to  observe  me,  and  perceiving  that  I  was  weary 
and  dejected,  intpiired  into  my  situation,  which  I  briefly  explained  to 
her;  whereupon,  with  looks  of pfreiit  compassion,  she  took  up  my  Nnd«l!c 
and  bridle,  aiul  tuld  me  to  follow  her.  Having  conducted  nie  into  her 
hut,  she  lighted  np  a  lamp,  spread  a  mat  u]>on  the  fioor,  and  told  nie  I 
might  remain  there  for  tlie  night.  Finding  that  I  was  very  lunigry,  she  said 
bHu  would  procure  mo  sometiiiug  to  eat ;  .she  accordingly  went  out,  an<l 
returned  in  a  short  time  with  a  very  lino  lisli,  whicli,  having  caused  to 
be  half-broiled  upon  some  embers,  she  gave  me  for  supjier.  Tlie  litcs 
of  hospitality  being  thus  performed  toward  a  stranger  in  distress,  my 
worthy  benefactress,  pointing  to  the  mat,  and  telling  me  I  might  sleep 
there  without  apprehension,  called  to  the  lemale  part  of  her  family,  who 
had  stood  gazing  on  mo  all  the  while  in  fixed  astonishment,  to  resume 
their  task  of  spinning  cotton,  in  which  they  continued  to  employ  them- 
selves a  great  part  of  the  night.  They  lightened  their  labor  by  songs, 
one  of  whielj  was  comjmsed  extempore,  for  I  wsis  myself  the  subject  of 
it ;  it  was  sung  by  one  of  the  young  Avomen,  the  rest  joining  in  a  sort  of 
chorus.  The  air  Avas  sweet  and  plaintive,  and  the  words  literally  trans- 
lated Avere  these :  '  The  AA'iiuls  roared,  and  the  rains  fell ;  the  poor  Avhite 
man,  faint  and  Aveary,  camo  and  sat  under  our  tree  ;  ho  has  no  mother 
to  bring  him  milk,  no  Avifo  to  grind  his  corn.'  Chorus :  '  Let  ug  pity 
the  Avhito  man,  no  mother  has  he,'  «tc.  Trifling  as  this  recital  may  ap- 
l)ear  to  the  reader,  to  a  person  in  my  situation  the  circumstance  Avas 
affecting  in  the  highest  degree.  I  Avas  so  oppressed  by  such  unex- 
pected kindness  that  sleep  fled  my  eyes.  In  the  morning  I  presented 
my  compassionate  landlady  with  tAvo  of  the  four  brass  buttons  which 
remained  on  my  Avaistcoat,  the  only  recompense  I  could  make  her." 

Although  Mansong  refused  to  admit  the  traveler  into  Jiis  presence, 
and  seemed  at  first  to  neglect  him,  it  soon  appeared  that  his  conduct  did 
not  arise  from  any  churlish  or  inhospitable  feelings ;  for  Avhile  ho  per- 
sisted in  his  refusal  to  see  him,  and  signified  his  pleasure  that  he  should 
forthwith  depart  from  the  city,  he  sent  him  a  present  of  five  thousand 
cowries,  and  a  guide  to  Sansanding.  Park  immediately  obeyed  the  royal 
command,  and  learned  ii-om  the  coni'ersation  of  his  guide  on  the  way, 
that  the  king's  motives  for  thus  dismissing  him  without  an  audience  were 
at  once  prudent  and  liberal,  since  he  feared  that  by  the  least  show  of 
favor  he  should  excite  the  jealousy  of  the  Moorish  inhabitants,  from 
whose  inveterate  malice  he  might  be  unable  to  protect  him. 

With  his  guide  he  proceeded  to  Sansanduig,  Avhere  he  was  hospitably 
received  by  the  dooty,  and  Avould,  as  the  king's  stranger,  have  enjoyed 
much  quiet  and  consideration,  had  he  not  the  misfortune  to  meet  with 
some  of  his  old  enemies,  the  Moors,  who  insisted  on  conducting  him  to 
the  mosque,  and  converting  him  into  a  Mohammedan  at  once.  How- 
ever, the  dooty,  by  exerting  his  authority,  freed  him  from  these  fanatics, 
and  ordered  a  sheep  to  be  killed,  and  part  of  it  dressed  for  his  supper. 
"About  midnight,  when  the  Moors  had  left  me,"  says  Park,  "  he  paid 


110 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OP    MUNGO    PARK. 


me  a  visit,  and  with  much  earnestness  desired  me  to  wr.'*e  him  a  aaphie, 
(charm).  'If  a  Moor's  saphic  is  good,'  said  this  hospit  .ole  old  man,  'a 
white  man's  must  needs  be  better.'  I  readily  furnished  him  with  one 
possessed  of  all  the  virtues  I  could  concentrate,  for  it  contained  the 
Lord's  Prayer.  The  pen  with  which  it  was  written  was  made  of  a  reed, 
a  little  charcoal  and  gum-water  made  very  tolerable  ink,  and  a  thin 
board  answered  the  purpose  of  paper." 

From  Sansanding  he  departed  early  in  the  morning,  before  the  Moors 
were  stirring.  The  road  now  lay  through  |the  woods,  and  the  guide, 
M-ho  understood  the  dangers  of  the  way,  moved  forward  with  the  great- 
est circumspection,  frequently  stopping  and  looking  under  the  bushes. 
Upon  observing  this.  Park  inquired  the  reason,  and  was  told  that  the 
lions  wore  very  plentiful  in  that  port  of  the  country,  and  often  attacked 
travelers  in  the  woods.  While  they  were  conversing  on  this  subject, 
Park  discovered  a  giraffe  at  a  little  distance.  "  Shortly  after  this,"  says 
he,  "  as  Ave  were  crossing  a  large  open  plain,  where  there  were  a  few 
scattered  bushes,  my  guide,  who  was  a  little  way  before  me,  wheeled  his 
horse  roimd  in  a  moment,  calling  out  something  in  the  Foulah  language 
which  I  did  not  understand.  I  inquired  in  Mandingo  what  he  meant. 
'  Wara  biUi  biUf  (a  very  large  lion) !  said  he,  and  made  signs  for  me  to 
ride  away.  But  my  horse  was  too  much  fatigued ;  so  we  rode  slowly 
past  the  bush  from  which  the  animal  had  given  us  the  alarm.  Not  see- 
ing any  thing  myself,  however,  I  thought  my  guide  had  been  mistaken, 
when  the  Foulah  suddenly  put  his  hand  to  his  mouth,  exclaiming,  '  God 
preserve  us,'  and  to  my  great  surprise  I  then  perceived  a  large  red  lion, 
at  a  short  distance  from  the  bush,  Avith  his  head  couched  between  his 
fore-paws.  I  expected  he  would  instantly  spring  upon  me,  and  instinct- 
ively pulled  my  feet  from  my  stirrups  to  throw  myself  on  the  ground, 
that  my  horse  might  become  the  victim  rather  than  myself.  But  it  is 
probable  the  lion  was  not  hungry ;  for  he  quietly  suffered  us  to  pass, 
though  we  were  fairly  within  his  reach." 

About  sunset  they  arrived  at  Moodiboo,  "  a  delightful  village  on  the 
banks  of  the  Niger,  commanding  a  view  of  the  river  for  many  miles, 
both  to  the  east  and  west.  The  small  green  islands,  the  peaceful  retreat 
of  soniC  industrious  Foulahs,  whose  cattle  were  here  secure  from  the  at- 
tacks of  wild  beasts,  and  the  majestic  breadth  of  the  river,  which  is  here 
much  larger  than  at  Sego,  render  the  situation  one  of  the  most  enchant- 
ing in  the  world."  Park  was  now  so  worn  out  with  fatigue  and  suffer- 
ing, that  his  landlord,  fearing  he  might  die  in  his  house,  hurried  him 
away  though  he  was  scarcely  able  to  walk,  and  his  horse  still  less  able  to 
carry  him.  In  fact,  they  had  not  proceeded  far  before  the  poor  beast 
fell  lown,  and  could  no  more  be  made  to  rise ;  so  that,  taking  off  his 
sad  lie  and  bridle,  our  traveler  with  extreme  reluctance  abandoned  him 
to  his  fate,  and  began  to  toil  along  on  foot  after  his  guide.  In  this  way 
they  reached  Kea,  a  small  fishing  village  on  the  Niger,  where  Park  em- 


ha 
Pd 


PARK. 


DECIDES    ON    RETURNING. 


Ill 


wr:*e  him  a  saphie, 
pit  ole  old  man,  '  a 
ilied  him  with  one 
r  it  contained  the 
vas  made  of  a  reed, 
ble  ink,  and  a  thin 

ig,  before  the  Moors 
ids,  and  the  guide, 
?^ard  with  the  grea^ 
f  \mder  the  bushes. 
i  was  told  that  the 
,  and  often  attacked 
ing  on  this  subject, 
rtly  after  this,"  says 
e  there  were  a  few 
fore  me,  wheeled  his 
;he  Foulah  language 
igo  what  he  meant, 
ade  signs  for  me  to 
;  so  we  rode  slowly 
he  alarm.    Not  see- 
!  had  been  mistaken, 
th,  exclaiming, '  God 
ired  a  large  red  lion, 
jouched  between  his 
pon  me,  and  instinct- 
rself  on  the  ground, 
n  myself.    But  it  is 
suflfered  us  to  pass, 

ightful  village  on  the 
iver  for  many  miles, 
(,  the  peaceful  retreat 
e  secure  from  the  at- 
e  river,  which  is  here 
of  the  most  enchant- 
ith  fatigue  and  suffer- 
is  house,  hurried  him 
horse  still  less  able  to 
jefore  the  poor  beast 
0  that,  taking  off  his 
stance  abandoned  him 
i  guide.  In  this  way 
iger,  where  Park  em- 


barked in  a  fisherman's  canoe  which  was  going  down  the  stream,  while 
the  guide  returned  to  Sego. 

In  this  canoe  he  reached  Moorzan,  whence  he  was  conveyed  across 
the  river  to  Silla,  a  large  town  on  the  opposite  shore.  It  was  with  great 
difficulty  that  he  here  obtained  admission  into  the  strangers'  room  of 
the  dooty's  house,  a  damp,  uncomfortable  place,  where  he  had  a  severe 
paroxysm  of  fever  during  the  night.  Here  his  resolution  and  energy,  of 
which  no  traveler  possessed  a  larger  share,  began  at  length  to  fail.  No 
hope  of  success  remained.  He  therefore,  with  extreme  sorrorw  and 
anguish  of  mind,  determined  on  returning.  His  own  simple  and  manly 
account  of  the  matter  can  not  fail  to  impress  even  the  most  insensible 
with  veneration  for  a  degree  of  courage  and  intrepidity  amounting  to 
heroism.  "  Worn  down  by  sickness,  exhausted  by  hunger  and  fatigue, 
half-naked,  and  without  any  article  of  value  by  which  I  might  procure 
provisions,  clothes,  or  lodging,  I  began,"  says  Park,  "  to  reflect  seriously 
on  ray  situation.  I  was  now  convinced  by  painful  experience,  that  the 
obstacles  to  my  further  progress  were  insurmountable.  The  tropical 
rains  had  already  set  in  with  all  their  violence ;  the  rice-grounds  and 
swamps  were  already  overflowed ;  and,  in  a  few  days  more,  traveling  of 
eve-y  kind  except  by  water  would  be  completely  obstructed.  The  cow- 
ries which  remained  of  the  King  of  Bambarra's  present  were  not  suffici- 
ent to  hire  a  canoe  for  any  great  distance  ;  and  I  had  but  little  hopes  of 
subsisting  by  charity  in  a  country  where  the  Moors  have  such  influence. 
But,  above  all,  I  perceived  I  was  advancing  more  and  more  within  the 
power  of  those  merciless  fanatics ;  and  from  my  reception  both  at  Sego 
and  Sansanding,  I  was  apprehensive  that,  in  attempting  to  reach  even 
Jenne — unless  under  the  protection  of  some  man  of  consequence  among 
them,  which  I  had  no  means  of  obtaining — I  should  sacrifice  my  life  to 
no  purpose;  for  my  discoveries  would  perish  with  me.  Tli«  prospect 
either  way  was  gloomy.  In  returning  to  the  Gambia,  a  journey  on  foot 
of  many  hundred  miles  presented  itself  to  my  contemplation,  through 
regions  and  countries  unknown.  Nevertheless,  this  seemed  to  me  the 
only  alternative ;  for  I  saw  inevitable  destruction  in  attempting  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  eastward.  With  this  conviction  on  my  mind,  I  hope  my 
readers  will  acknowledge  I  did  right  in  going  no  further.  I  had  made 
every  exertion,  to  execute  my  mission  in  its  fullest  extent,  which  prudence 
could  justify.  Had  there  been  the  most  distant  prospect  of  a  successful 
termination,  neither  the  unavoidable  hardships  of  the  journey  nor  the 
dangers  of  a  second  captivity  should  have  forced  me  to  desist.  This, 
however,  necessity  compelled  me  to  do." 

When  he  had  come  to  this  resolution,  he  thought  it  incumbent  upon 
him,  before  he  left  Silla,  to  collect  whatever  information  might  be  within 
his  reach  respecting  the  further  course  of  the  Niger,  and  the  situation 
and  extent  of  the  various  kingdoms  in  its  vicinity.  Subsequent  travelers 
have  solved  the  problem,  the  honor  of  explaining  which  was  denied  to 
Park.    Wc  now  know  that  this  great  river,  after  flowing  to  a  consider- 


11? 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS    OF    MUNOO   PARK. 


able  distance  eastward  of  Timbuctoo,  makes  a  bend  to  the  south,  and, 
after  }>iirsuing  a  south-westerly  course,  ialls  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  on 
the  coast  of  Benin. 

On  the  30th  of  July  he  commenced  his  return  westward,  by  the  same 
route  through  which  he  had  reached  Silla.  In  a  few  days  he  recov-ered 
his  horse,  which  had  in  some  measure  regained  its  strength,  though  it  was 
Ktill  too  weak  to  be  ridden.  The  rainy  season  having  now  set  in,  the 
wliole  of  the  plain  country  was  quickly  inundated ;  so  that  he  was  often 
in  danger  of  losing  his  way  while  traversing  savannahs  many  miles  in 
extent,  knee-deep  in  water.  In  several  places  he  waded  breast-deep 
across  the  swamps.  Tiio  huts  of  tlie  villages  in  which  he  passed  the 
night,  being  undermined  or  softened  by  the  rain,  often  fell  in ;  and  the 
noise  of  their  fall  sometimes  kept  him  awake,  expecting  that  his  own 
might  be  the  next.  His  situation  was  now  even  worse  than  during  his 
progress  eastward.  A  report  had  been  Avidely  circulated  that  ho  was  a 
spy,  in  consequence  of  which  he  was  in  some  places  civilly  refused  ad- 
mittance mto  the  towns,  in  others  repulsed  from  the  gates  with  violence; 
so  that  he  now  appeared  inevitably  doomed  to  perish  with  hunger. 
However,  when  the  tatal  hour  seemed  at  hand,  some  charitable  being 
always  appeared  with  a  poor  but  seasonable  supply,  such,  perhaps,  as  a 
little  raw  corn,  which  prolonged  his  life,  and  supplied  him  with  strength 
to  achieve  his  memorable  journey.  "On  the  evening  of  the  15th  of 
August,  I  arrived,"  says  Park,  "  at  a  small  village  called  Song,  the  surly 
inhabitants  of  which  would  not  receive  me,  nor  so  much  as  permit  me  to 
enter  the  gate ;  but  as  lions  were  very  numerous  in  this  neighborhood, 
and  I  had  frequently  in  the  course  of  the  day  seen  the  impression  of  their 
feet  upon  the  road,  I  resolved  to  stay  in  the  vicinity  of  the  village.  Hav- 
ing collected  some  grass  for  my  horse,  I  accordingly  lay  down  under  a 
tree  by  the  gate.  About  ten  o'clock  I  heard  the  hollow  roar  of  a  lion  at 
no  great  distance,  and  attempted  to  open  the  gate ;  but  the  people  from 
'within  told  me  that  no  person  must  attempt  to  enter  without  the  dooty's 
permission.  I  begged  them  to  inform  the  dooty  that  a  lion  was  apj^roach- 
ing  the  village,  and  I  hoi)ed  ho  would  allow  me  to  come  within  the  gate. 
I  waited  for  an  answer  to  this  message  with  great  anxiety ;  for  the  lion 
kept  prowling  round  the  village,  and  once  advanced  so  near  me  that  I 
heard  him  rustling  among  the  grass,  and  climbed  a  tree  for  safety. 
About  midnight  the  dooty  with  some  of  his  people  opened  the  gate,  and 
desired  me  to  come  in.  They  were  convinced,  they  said,  I  was  not  a 
Moor ;  for  no  Moor  ever  waited  so  long  at  the  gate  of  a  village,  without 
cursing  the  inhabitants." 

The  history  of  this  journey  now  becomes  nothing  more  than  a  repeti- 
tion of  similar  sufferings.  Hunger,  fatigue,  and  depression  of  spirits  at- 
tack the  traveler  by  turns.  Nothing,  however,  subdues  his  courage. 
Obstacle  after  obstacle  yields  to  his  persevering  intrepidity,  and  he  pushes 
forward  with  invincible  ardor  toward  the  coast.  In  one  place,  at  the  re- 
quest of  a  native  who  had  grown  opulent  by  industrious  application  to 


ARK. 

o  the  south,  and, 
Ltlantio  Ocean  on 

ward,  by  the  same 
lays  he  recovered 
igth,  though  it  was 
ig  now  set  in,  the 
)  that  he  was  often 
ahs  many  miles  in 
waded  breast-deep 
lich  he  passed  the 
ten  feU  in ;  and  the 
cting  that  his  o^vn 
rse  than  during  his 
lated  that  ho  was  a 
3  civilly  refused  ad- 
gates  with  violence; 
)erish  with  hunger, 
ne  charitable  being 
,  such,  perhaps,  as  a 
id  him  with  strength 
ling  of  the  15th  of 
alle'd  Song,  the  surly 
auch  as  permit  me  to 
n  this  neighborhood, 
he  impression  of  their 
jT  of  the  village.   Hav- 
rly  lay  down  under  a 
oUow  roar  of  a  lion  at 
;  but  the  people  from 
er  without  the  dooty's 
it  a  lion  was  approach- 
come  within  the  gate, 
t  anxiety;  fortheUon 
sed  so  near  me  that  I 
t)ed  a  tree  for  safety, 
le  opened  the  gate,  and 

they  B£ud,  I  was  not  a 
ite  of  a  vUlage,  without 

ling  more  than  a  repeti- 
depression  of  spirits  at- 
r,  subdues  his  courage, 
itrepidity,  and  he  pushes 

In  one  place,  at  the  re- 
idustrious  application  to 


J 


I 


Ml 

I 


ayijfcggiy!»»i.wiyi|iy>(P!ip.*ffi«iw^y»*i-  .»^w!»i'.*irf^ 


A 


!"»; 


h, 


HI 


1 


1 


ENCOUNTER  WITH  ROBBERS. 


113 


commerce,  he  wrote  charms  for  a  good  supper ;  and,  fitiding  the  con- 
trivance productive,  continued  the  practice  next  day  for  small  presents 
of  various  kinds.  On  other  occasions,  where  superstition  did  not  come 
to  his  aid,  humanity  interposed,  and  snatched  hun  from  starvation.  At 
Biimmakoo  he  was  hospitably  treated,  even  by  a  Moor,  who,  having 
tiiivclcd  to  Rio  Grande,  had  conversed  with  Christians,  and  conceived  a 
favorable  idea  of  their  character.  The  rains  had  now  increased  the  Ni- 
ger to  a  vast  size,  and  rendered  impassable  almost  every  road ;  but,  as 
our  traveler's  tiuances  had  long  been  exhausted,  he  foimd  himself  com- 
pelled to  proceed,  the  charity  of  the  natives  not  extending  so  far  as  to 
the  maintaining  of  a  stranger  for  several  months.  The  ordinary  roads 
being  obstructed  by  the  rains,  the  only  practicable  route,  wild,  dreary, 
and  desolate,  lay  over  sterile,  rocky  mountams,  which,  it  was  feared,  a 
horse  could  not  pass. 

Finding  that  a  singing-man  was  about  to  proceed  by  this  road  to 
Sibidooloo,  Park  placed  himself  under  his  guidance,  and  quitted  Bamma- 
koo.  He  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  before  his  companion,  finding 
that  he  had  taken  the  wrong  path,  escaped  among  the  rocks,  and  left 
him  to  find  his  way  as  he  best  might.  He  soon  arrived  at  a  village, 
where  he  was  entertained  with  hospitality,  and  where  he  passed  the 
night.  Next  day,  as  he  was  quietly  pursuing  his  course,  a  troop  of  peas- 
ants presented  themselves,  whom  he  at  first  took  for  elephant-hunters, 
but  who  very  shortly  proved  themselves  to  be  banditti.  Pretending  to 
arrest  him  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  the  Foulabs,  they  commanded  him 
to  follow  them,  until,  having  reached  a  dark,  lonely  part  of  a  wood,  one 
of  them  exclaimed  in  the  Mandingo  language,  "  This  place  will  do !"  and 
immediately  snatched  his  hat  from  his  head.  "  Though  I  was  by  no 
means  free  from  apprehension,"  says  Park,  "  yet  I  was  resolved  to  show 
as  few  signs  of  fear  as  possible ;  and  therefore  told  them,  that  unless  my 
hat  was  returned  to  me  I  should  proceed  no  further.  But  before  I  had 
time  to  receive  an  answer  another  drew  a  knife,  and,  seizing  upon  a 
metal  button  which  remained  upon  my  waistcoat,  cut  it  off,  and  put  it 
into  his  pocket.  Their  intentions  were  now  obvious ;  and  I  thought  that 
the  easier  they  were  permitted  to  rob  me  of  every  thing,  the  less  I  had 
to  fear.  I  therefore  allowed  them  to  search  my  pockets  without  resist- 
ance, and  examine  every  part  of  my  apparel,  which  they  did  with  the 
most  scrupulous  exactness.  But,  observing  that  I  had  one  waistcoat 
under  another,  they  insisted  that  I  should  cast  them  both  off;  and  at 
last,  to  make  sure  work,  stripped  me  quite  naked.  Even  my  half-boots, 
though  the  sole  of  one  of  them  was  tied  on  to  my  foot  with  a  broken  bridle- 
rein,  were  minutely  inspected.  While  they  were  examining  the  plunder, 
I  begged  them  with  great  earnestness  to  return  my  pocket-compass ;  but 
when  I  pointed  it  out  to  them,  as  it  was  lying  on  the  ground,  one  of  the 
banditti,  thinking  I  was  about  to  take  it  up,  cocked  his  musket,  and 
swore  he  would  lay  me  dead  upon  the  spot  if  I  presumed  to  put  my  hand 
upon  it.    After  this,  some  of  them  went  away  with  my  horse,  and  the 

8 


114 


LIFE    AND    XRAVELS   OF    MUNOO    PARK. 


reniiiindcr  stood  considering  whether  they  should  leave  mo  quite  naked, 
or  allow  nic  something  to  shelter  me  from  the  sun.  Humanity  at  last 
prevailed ;  they  returned  me  the  worst  of  the  two  shirts  and  a  pair  of 
trowsors ;  and,  as  they  went  away,  one  of  them  threw  hack  my  l»at,  in 
the  crown  of  vVhich  I  kept  my  memorandums ;  and  this  was  probably 
the  reason  why  they  did  not  wish  to  keep  it." 

This  was  the  most  terrible  misfortimc  that  had  hitherto  befallen  him, 
and  at  first  his  mind  appeared  to  smk  under  the  united  influence  of  grief 
and  terror.  For  awhile  he  sat  in  sullen  dejection,  half-persuaded  that  he 
had  no  alternative  but  to  lie  down  and  perish.  Presently,  however,  a 
reliance  upon  Providence  succeeded  this  extreme  dejection,  and  his  mind 
gradually  regained  ita  tone : — "  I  was,  indeed,  a  stranger,"  he  thought, 
"  in  a  strange  land ;  yet  I  was  still  under  the  protecting  eye  of  that 
Providence  who  has  condescended  to  call  himself  the  stranger's  friend. 
At  this  moment,  painftd  as  my  reflections  were,  the  extraorduiary  beauty 
of  a  small  moss  in  fructification  irresistibly  caught  my  eye.  I  mention 
this  to  show  from  what  triflmg  circumstances  the  mind  will  sometimes 
derive  consolation  ;  for  though  the  whole  plant  was  not  larger  than  the 
top  of  one  of  my  fingers,  I  could  not  contemplate  the  delicate  conforma- 
tion of  its  roots,  leaves,  and  capsule,  without  admiration.  Can  that 
being,  thought  I,  who  planted,  watered,  and  brought  to  perfection,  in 
this  obscure  part  of  the  world,  a  thing  which  appears  of  so  small  import- 
ance, look  with  unconcern  upon  the  situation  and  sufferings  of  creatures 
formed  after  his  own  image  ?  Surely  not !  Reflections  like  these  would 
not  allow  me  to  despair ;  I  started  up,  and,  disregarding  both  danger  and 
fatigue,  traveled  forward,  assured  that  relief  was  at  hand ;  and  I  was 
not  disappointed." 

On  arriving  at  Sibidooloo,  Park  related  to  the  mansa,  or  chief  of  the 
town,  the  misfortune  which  had  befallen  him.  This  humane  and  excel- 
lent man,  having  heard  him  patiently  to  an  end,  took  the  pipe  from  his 
mouth,  and  tossing  up  the  sleeve  of  his  coat  with  an  indignant  six,  "  Sit 
down,"  said  he,  "  you  shall  have  every  thing  restored  to  you ;  I  have 
sworn  it."  He  then  took  the  necessary  measures  for  the  recovery  of  the 
traveler's  property,  and  invited  him  to  partake  of  his  hospitable  fare  un- 
til this  should  have  been  efiected.  Aiter  spending  a  few  days  at  this 
place,  without  hearing  any  news  of  his  horse  or  other  property,  our  trav- 
eler removed  to  a  distant  village,  where  he  remained  until  the  whole 
was  discovered  and  restored  to  him,  with  the  exception  of  his  pocket- 
compass,  which  had  been  broken  to  pieces.  Having  nothing  else  to  be- 
stow upon  his  hospitable  landlords,  he  gave  his  horse  to  one,  and  his  sad- 
dle and  bridle  to  the  other :  and  then  taking  his  leave,  proceeded  on  foot 
to  Kamalia,  where  he  arrived  on  the  16th  of  September.  At  this  town, 
romantically  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  mountain,  he  found  a  slave- 
merchant,  who,  intending  to  descend  to  the  coast  with  a  small  caravan 
in  the  beginning  of  the  dry  season,  offered  the  traveler  an  asylum  until 
he  should  set  out.    Conceivmg  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  proceed 


'ARK. 

0  mc  <i»itc  naked, 
Humanity  at  last 

hirts  and  a  pair  of 
w  back  my  hat,  in 
thia  was  probably 

I 
herto  befallen  him,     I 
2d  influence  of  grief    \ 
f-persuaded  that  he     j 
•csently,  however,  a 
Bction,  and  his  mind 
inger,"  ho  thought, 
tecting  eye  of  that 
le  stranger's  friend, 
•xtraordmary  beauty 
my  eye.    I  mention 
nindwill  sometimes 

1  not  larger  than  the 
ae  delicate  conforma- 
Imiration.  Can  that 
ight  to  perfection,  in 
irsofsosmallimport- 

iufl"erings  of  creatures 

tions  like  these  would 

ding  both  danger  and 

at  hand;  and  I  was 

mansa,  orchiefof  the 
lis  humane  and  excel- 
ook  the  pipe  from  his 
an  incUgnant  aJj,  "  Sit 
tored  to  you;  I  have 
for  the  recovery  of  the    | 
his  hospitable  fare  un- 
ing  a  few  days  at  this 
her  property,  our  trav- 
lained  nntU  the  whole 
cception  of  his  pocket- 
ing nothing  else  to  be- 
rse  to  one,  and  his  sad- 
jave,  proceeded  on  foot 
tember.    At  this  town, 
Rtain,  he  found  a  slave- 
it  with  a  small  caravan 
,raveler  an  asylum  until 
e  impossible  to  proceed 


RETURN   TOWARDS   THE   COAST. 


115 


during  the  rains,  Park  accepted  lils  kind  proposal,  ami  promiHed  in  n- 
turn  to  give  liini  the  price  of  a  slave  upon  their  arrival  on  the  coast. 
Here  a  fever,  which  had  for  some  time  niennced  him,  manifested  itself 
with  great  violence,  and  continued  to  torment  liiin  during  the  wliole 
season  of  the  i.nins.  Ills  landlord,  meanwhile,  exerted  himself  to  keep 
up  his  hoi)es,  and  having  by  some  means  or  another  obtained  p«»SHession 
of  an  English  Conmion  Prayer  Book,  he  communicated  the  use  of  it  to 
Park,  Avho  was  thus  enabled  to  beguile  the  gloomy  hours  of  his  solitude 
and  sickness.  At  length  the  rains  became  less  frequent,  and  the  fever 
abated,  so  that  he  uuuld  move  out  and  enjoy  the  fresh  air  in  the  fields. 


*-•_  ''^>, 


^t*'^i--±,-ji 


K  A  M  A  :.  I  A. 


On  the  19th  of  April,  after  Park  hail  roniained  seven  months  at  Ka- 
malia,  Karfa,  the  slave-merchant,  having  collected  his  slaves,  and  com- 
pleted all  necessary  preparations,  set  out  toward  the  coast,  taking  the 
traveler,  to  whom  his  behavior  had  always  been  marked  by  the  greatest 
kindness,  along  with  him.  Their  road  led  them  across  the  Jallonka 
wilderness,  where  the  sufferings  of  every  member  of  the  caravan,  and 
more  particularly  of  the  slaves,  were  most  exquisite ;  but  affliction  was 
far  from  having  taught  them  commiseration,  for  a  fine  young  female 
slave,  fainting  from  fatigue,  had  no  sooner  signified  her  inability  to  go 
on,  than  the  universal  cry  of  the  caravan  was,  "  Cut  her  throat,  cut  her 
throat,"  By  the  interposition  of  Karfa  her  life  was  spared,  but  she  wfii 
abandoned  on  the  road,  where  she  was,  no  doubt,  soon  devoured  by 
wild  beasts.    At  length,  after  a  long,  toilsome  journey,  Karfa  succeeded 


:' 


! 


V, 


116 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS   OF   MUNOO   PABK. 


in  fuKUling  his  promise,  and  conducted  Park  safe  to  Pisania,  which  he 
reached  on  the  10th  of  June,  and  where  the  good  old  man  was  over- 
whelmed with  the  gratitude  of  his  guest.  Park  now  took  his  passage 
in  an  American  vessel,  and  on  arriving  in  the  West  Indies,  quitted  this 
ship  for  a  packet  bomid  for  Falmouth,  where  ho  arrived  on  the  2?d  of 
December,  1707,  after  an  absence  of  two  years  and  seven  months. 

Immediately  on  his  landing,  he  hastened  to  London,  where  he  arrived 
before  daylight  on  the  morning  of  Christmas  day.  It  being  too  early 
an  hour  to  call  on  his  brother-in-law,  Mr.  Dickson,  he  strolled  about  for 
some  tune  in  the  neighboring  streets.  At  length,  finding  one  of  the 
entrances  into  the  gardens  of  the  British  Museum  accidentally  open,  he 
went  in  and  walked  about  there  for  some  time.  It  happened  that  Mr. 
Dickson,  who  had  the  care  of  those  gardens,  went  there  early  that  morn- 
ing on  some  trifling  business.  What  must  have  been  his  emotions  on 
beholding,  at  that  extraordinary  time  and  place,  the  vision,  as  it  must 
at  first  have  appeared,  of  his  long-lost  friend,  the  object  of  so  many 
anxious  reflections,  and  whom  he  had  long  numbered  with  the  dead. 

He  was  now  received  with  distinguished  honor  by  the  African  Asso- 
ciation, and  the  various  literary  men  whom  he  met  with  in  London.  In 
the  mean  time  his  travels,  which  the  Association  permitted  him  to  pub- 
lish on  his  own  account,  were  announced ;  and  both  during  his  stay  in 
London,  and  the  visit  which  he  paid  to  his  friends  in  Scotland,  all  his 
leisure  honn  were  devoted  to  the  compiling  and  arranging  of  the  mate- 
rials for  the  work.  It  appeared  in  the  spring  of  1790,  and  immediately 
acquired  that  degree  of  popularity  which  it  has  ever  since  maintained. 

Soon  after  the  publication  of  his  travels,  which  became  at  once  ex- 
ceedingly popular  and  profitable.  Park  again  returned  to  Scotland,  where, 
on  the  2d  of  August,  1790,  he  married  one  of  the  daughters  of  Mr.  An- 
derson, of  Selkirk,  with  whom  he  had  served  his  apprenticeship.  For 
the  two  following  years  he  resided  on  the  farm  at  Fowlshiels  with  his 
mother  and  one  of  his  brothers.  He  then  removed  to  the  town  of  Pee- 
bles, where  he  resumed  the  practice  of  his  profession,  and  in  a  short  time 
acquired  a  good  share  of  the  business  of  the  place.  His  kindness  and 
charity  greatly  endeared  him  to  the  poor  of  the  district,  though  he  was 
considered  haughty  and  reserved  by  strangers,  who  were  apt  to  annoy 
him  with  their  questions.  He  soon  began  to  tire,  however,  of  the  ob- 
scure life  of  a  country  surgeon ;  the  fascination  of  Africa  was  upon  him, 
and  he  longed  to  return  to  the  scene  of  his  dangers  and  sufferings. 
When  one  of  his  relatives,  a  short  time  before  his  departure  on  his  sec- 
ond expedition,  expostulated  with  him  on  his  rashness  and  imprudence, 
he  replied  that  a  few  inglorious  winters  of  country  practice  at  Peebles 
was  a  risk  as  great,  and  would  tend  as  effectually  to  shorten  life,  as  his 
proposed  journey.  The  British  government  twice  offered  him  the  com- 
mand of  an  expedition  to  explore  the  interior  of  Australia,  which  he 
declined.  Aftier  the  preliminaries  of  peace  with  France  had  been  signed, 
in  October,  1801,  Sir  Joseph  Banks  wrote  to  him  informing  him  that  the 


la 


ABK. 

isania,  which  he 
I  man  was  over- 
took his  passage 
tdies,  quitted  this 
red  on  the  2?d  of 
^cn  months, 
where  lie  arrived 
being  too  early 
strolled  about  for 
Snding  one  of  the 
identally  open,  he 
ippened  that  Mr. 
•0  early  that  mom- 
3n  his  emotions  on 
vision,  as  it  must 
(bject  of  so  many 
with  the  dead, 
r  the  African  Asso- 
ith  in  London.    In 
mittedhimto  pub- 
during  his  stay  in 
in  Scotland,  all  his 
mging  of  the  mate- 
9,  and  immediately 
r  since  mainttuned. 
)ecame  at  once  ex- 
l  to  Scotland,  where, 
lughters  of  Mr.  An- 
ipprenticcship.    For 
Fowlshiels  with  his 
to  the  town  of  Pee- 
,  and  in  a  short  time 
His  kindness  and 
trict,  though  he  was 
I  were  apt  to  annoy 
however,  of  the  oh- 
Africa  was  upon  him, 
igers  and  sufferings, 
leparture  on  his  sec- 
ess  and  imprudence, 
f  practice  at  Peebles 
;o  shorten  life,  as  his 
offered  him  the  com- 
'  Australia,  which  he 
ance  had  been  signed, 
iforming  him  that  the 


PREPARATION    FOR  THE    SECOND    EXPEDITIOX.      117 

African  Assoi'i.it ion  intended  reviving  tlioir  i)rojc('t  for  an  exploration  of 
the  Niger,  and  that,  in  case  govcnnnent  should  enter  into  the  plan,  he 
would  be  reconuncnded  as  the  most  proper  person  to  carry  it  into  ex- 
ecution. Park  remained  in  suspense  for  two  years,  when  Lord  Iloliart, 
who  was  then  connected  with  the  Colonial  Department,  m;ule  him  a 
formal  pro|)08al  on  the  part  of  the  government.  He  accepted  at  once, 
and  in  December,  1803,  left  Scotland  with  the  expectation  of  soon  em- 
barking for  Africa. 

On  account  of  political  changes  the  expedition  was  given  up,  alliT 
several  of  the  troops  destined  for  the  service  had  already  been  embarked 
at  Portsmouth.  Park  Avas  informed  that  nothing  could  be  done  imtil 
the  following  September,  and  M'as  recommended  to  study  the  Arabic 
language  in  the  mean  time,  and  to  exercise  liimsclf  in  taking  astronomi- 
cal observations.  He  employed  a  native  of  Mogador  as  a  teacher,  and 
returned  to  Scotland,  where  he  remained  during  the  spring  and  summer 
of  1 804.  Sir  Walter  Scott  Avas  at  that  time  residing  near  Fowlshiels, 
and  the  traveler  and  author  soon  became  friends.  Scott  relates  that, 
calling  upon  Park  one  day  and  not  finding  him  at  home,  he  walked  in 
search  of  him  along  the  banks  of  the  Yarrow.  In  a  short  time  he  fourul 
him  emj)loyed  in  plunging  largo  stones  into  the  river,  and  attentively 
watching  the  bubbles  as  they  rose  to  the  surface.  On  being  asked  why 
he  persevered  so  long  in  this  singular  amusement,  Park  answered :  "  This 
was  the  manner  in  which  I  used  to  ascertain  the  depth  of  a  river  in 
Africa,  before  I  ventured  to  cross  it,  judging  whether  the  attempt  would 
be  safe  by  the  time  which  the  bubbles  of  air  took  to  ascend." 

On  leaving  Fowlshiels  for  the  last  time  in  September,  1804,  Park 
was  extremely  affected,  and  would  not  venture  to  trust  his  own  feelings 
or  those  of  his  family,  with  a  formal  parting.  He  left  them,  as  if  with 
the  intention  of .  returning,  alleging  that  ho  had  particular  business  at 
Edinburg,  whence  he  sent  them  his  last  farewell.  Scott  describes,  in 
feeling  terms,  the  manner  of  his  last  parting  with  his  friend.  Just  be- 
fore quitting  Fowlshiels,  Park  paid  him  a  visit  and  slept  at  his  house. 
The  next  morning,  Scott  accompanied  him  part  of  the  way  on  his  return, 
and  they  rode  together  over  the  wild  chain  of  pastoral  hills  which  divide 
the  Tweed  from  the  Yarrow.  Park  talked  much  of  his  new  African 
expedition,  and  mentioned  his  determination  of  gomg  strMght  from 
Edinburg,  without  returning  to  take  leave  of  his  family.  They  were 
then  on  the  top  of  a  lofty  hill  which  overlooked  the  course  of  the  Yar- 
row, and  the  autumnal  mist,  which  floated  heavily  and  slowly  down  the 
valley  beneath  them,  presented  to  Scott's  imagination  a  striking  emblem 
of  the  troubled  and  uncertain  prospect  which  Park's  undertaking  af- 
forded. He  endeavored  to  present  its  dangers  to  his  friend's  mind,  but 
Park  had  a  ready  answer  for  every  thing.  Thus  discussing  the  plan, 
they  came  to  a  road  where  it  had  been  agreed  they  should  separate.  A 
small  ditch  divided  the  moor  from  the  road :  in  going  over  it,  Park's 
horse  stumbled,  and  m  nriy  fell.     "  I  am  afraid,  Mungo,  that  is  a  bad 


118 


LIKE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    MUNUO    PARK. 


omen,"  sa'ul  St-ott ;  to  wiiich  Park  answcrod,  sniilinfj :  "  Freitu  (oinonR) 
follow  tliosu  who  look  for  tlieni."  Witli  this  provi-rbial  Kiyinpr,  and 
afraid  of  a  formal  adiuii,  lie  redo  away  and  watt  s|ic>cdiiy  out  of  Hight. 

At  tho  ilosc  of  the  year  1804,  after  much  delay  and  Jinoertainty, 
the  expedition  was  finally  detennhied  on,  and  Park  received  from  Lord 
Camden  his  appoiutment  as  its  chief  conduct(»r.  "For  the  better  en- 
abling you  to  execute  this  service,"  gays  his  lordship,  "  his  majesty  has 
granted  you  tho  brevet  commission  of  captain  in  Africa,  and  has  also 
granted  a  similar  commission  of  lieutenant  to  Mr.  Alexjinder  Anderson, 
whouj  you  have  recommended  as  a  proper  person  to  accompany  you, 
Mr.  Scott  has  also  been  selected  to  attend  you  as  draughtsman.  You 
are  hereby  empowered  to  enlist  with  you  for  this  expedition  any  num- 
ber you  think  proper  of  the  garrison  at  Goree,  not  exceeding  forty- 
five,  which  the  commandant  of  that  island  will  bo  ordered  to  i)laco 
under  your  command,  giving  them  such  bounties  or  encouragement  as 
may  be  necessary  to  induce  them  cheerfully  to  join  with  you  in  the  ex- 
pedition." 

Five  thousand  pounds  were  at  the  same  time  placed  at  Park's  dis- 
posal, and  further  directions  given  him  respecting  the  course  and  line 
of  conduct  he  was  expected  to  pursue.  With  these  instructions  Park 
and  his  companions  proceeded  to  Portsmouth,  where  they  were  joined 
by  foJir  or  five  artificers,  appointed  for  the  service  from  the  dock-yards. 
They  sailed  on  the  30th  of  January,  1805,  and  after  touching  at  St. 
Jago,  one  of  the  Cape  do  Verde  Islands,  to  purchase  asses,  reached  Go- 
ree on  the  28th  of  March.  Double  pay  was  oft'ered  to  tho  soldiers 
during  the  expedition,  with  a  discharge  on  their  return,  and  these  in- 
ducements were  so  great  that  the  whole  garrison  volunteered.  Thirty- 
five  were  chosen,  and  placed  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Martyn 
of  the  royal  artillery  corps,  who  liad  also  volunteered  for  the  service. 
The  exj)edition  now  being  organised,  left  Goree  on  the  6th  of  April, 
the  soldiers  cheering  loudly  and  joyously  as  they  jumped  into  tho  boats. 

On  arriving  at  Kayee,  a  .small  town  on  tho  Gambia  River,  Pafk  en- 
gaged a  Mandingo  i)rii.st,  named  Isaaco,  who  M-as  also  a  traveling 
merchant,  and  much  accustomed  to  long  inland  journeys,  to  servo  as 
guide  to  his  caravan.  On  the  27th  of  April,  ho  left  Kayee,  and  arrived 
in  two  days  at  Pisania,  from  whence  he  had  set  out  for  the  interior  of 
Afiica  nearly  ten  years  before.  Some  of  the  practical  difficulties  of  tho 
march  hiid  become  very  apparent  during  this  short  journey,  since  ho 
found  it  necessary  to  halt  at  Pisania  six  days,  to  procure  additional 
beasts  of  burden.  He  soon  found,  also,  that  the  soldiers,  whoso  appear- 
ance had  pleased  him  so  much  at  Goree,  were  physically  inferior  to  tho 
work  required  of  them,  while  in  sobriety,  steadiness,  and  good  discipline, 
they  were  sadly  deficient.  Finally  every  thing  was  arranged,  and  they 
left  Pisania  on  tho  4th  of  May.  The  party  consisted  of  Park,  liia 
brother-in-law  Anderson,  to  whom  a  lieutenant's  commission  was  given ; 
liientcnant  Martyn  ;  George  Scott,  draughtsman ;  forty  soldiers,  sailors, 


PARK. 

r :  "  Freitif  (omens) 
t'rbiiil  sayinp,  anil 
lily  out  of  Might, 
y  and  unoortainty, 
received  from  Lord 
"  For  the  better  en- 
.,  "  his  majesty  has 
\frica,  and  has  also 
lexander  Anderson, 
I  to  accompany  you. 
draughtsman.    You 
•xpedition  any  num- 
ot  exceeding  forty- 
le  ordered  to  place 
ir  encouragement  as 
with  you  in  the  ex- 


laccd  at  Park's  dis- 
the  course  and  line 
'8C  instructions  Park 
ere  they  were  joined 
from  the  dock-yards, 
ifter  touching  at  St. 
so.  asses,  reached  Go- 
fered  to  the  soldiers 

return,  and  these  in- 
rolunteered.    Thirty- 
f  Lieutenant  Martyn 
ercd  for  the  service, 
on  the  6th  of  April, 
imped  into  the  boats, 
nbia  River,  Park  en- 
A-as  also  a  traveling 
journeys,  to  servo  as 
I  Kayee,  and  arrived 
)ut  for  the  interior  of 
ical  diflBculties  of  the 
ort  journey,  since  he 
to  procure  additional 
oldiers,  whose  appear- 
sically  inferior  to  the 
s,  and  good  discipline, 
as  arranged,  and  they 
insisted  of  Park,  liis 
lommission  was  given ; 

forty  soldiers,  sailors, 


AN    ATTACK    OF    DKKS. 


119 


and  carjientcrs,  and  Isaaco,  the  guide.  Tliey  had  much  trouble  with  tlic 
asses,  at  the  start ;  some  lay  down,  others  kicked  nff  tlicir  loads,  and  it 
became  necessary  to  increase  their  mnnber  still  further.  Tlicy  passed 
Medina,  tlie  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  WooUi,  and  advanced  slowly  east- 
Mard — much  too  slowly,  in  tact,  for  the  rainy  season  was  fast  ai>proacli- 
ing,  and  Park  was  anxious  to  reach  the  Niger  before  the  intervenuig 
rivers  should  become  impassable. 

At  Hady,  a  town  on  the  interior  frontier  of  WooUi,  they  were  led 
into  a  quarrel  with  the  faranba.,  or  chief  of  the  town,  respecting  the 
amount  of  duties  to  be  paid  by  their  caravan,  in  which,  though  the  con- 
duct of  the  African  was  rudo  and  peremptory,  the  travelers  were  clearly 
in  the  wrong.  A  few  days  alter  this  affair  the  caravan  had  an  adventure 
with  a  new  species  of  enemy.  On  the  24th  of  May  they  reached  a  place 
which  they  denominated  Bet's  Creek,  where  they  halted  with  the  in- 
tention of  encaaiping  there.  "Wo  had  no  sooner  unloaded  the  asses  at 
the  creek,"  says  Park,  "  than  some  of  Is.iaco's  people,  being  in  search  of 
honey,  unfortunately  disturbed  a  largo  swarm  of  bees  near  where  the 
coflie  had  halted.  The  bees  camo  out  in  immense  numbers,  and  attacked 
men  and  beasts  at  the  same  time.  Luckily,  most  of  the  asses  were  loose, 
and  galloped  up  the  valley ;  but  the  horses  and  people  were  very  much 
stung,  and  obliged  to  scamper  in  all  directions.  The  firo  which  had  been 
kindled  for  cooking,  having  been  deserted,  spread  and  set  fire  to  the 
bamboos ;  and  our  baggage  liad  like  to  have  been  burned.  In  fact,  for 
half  an  hour  the  bees  seemed  to  have  put  an  end  to  our  journey.  In 
the  evening,  when  the  bees  became  less  troublesome,  and  we  could 
venture  to  collect  our  cattle,  we  found  that  many  of  them  were  very 
nmch  stung  and  swelled  about  the  head.  Three  asses  were  missing ; 
one  died  in  the  evening  and  one  next  morning,  and  we  were  compelled 
to  leave  one  at  Sibikillin ;  in  all  six :  besides  which,  our  guide  lost  liis 
horse,  and  many  of  the  people  Avere  very  much  stung  about  the  face 
and  hands." 

About  the  middle  of  Juno  the  rains  began  to  set  in,  accompanied 
by  violent  tornadoes.  The  earth  was  quickly  covered  -with  water.  The 
soldiers  were  aifected  with  vomiting,  or  with  an  irresistible  inclination 
to  sleep.  Park  himself  was  affected  in  a  similar  manner  during  the 
storm,  and,  notwithstanding  that  he  used  every  exertion  to  keep  away 
heaviness,  at  Icigth  fell  asleep  on  the  damp  ground.  The  soldiers  did 
the  same  thing  In  the  morning  twelve  of  them  were  sick.  In  this 
vicinity  he  saw  many  pits,  from  which  gold  was  obtained  in  large  quan- 
tities by  washing.  As  the  caravan  proceeded,  many  of  the  soldiers 
growing  delirious,  or  too  weak  to  continue  the  march,  were  lefl  behind 
to  the  care  of  the  natives;  while  others  died  on  the  road,  or  were 
drowned  in  the  rivers.  Some,  still  more  unfortunate  if  possible,  were 
lost  in  the  woods,  where  they  were  no  doubt  devoured  by  wild  beasts. 
Meanwhile  the  natives,  who  imagined  that  the  caravan  contained  pro- 
digious wealth,  hung  upon  their  march,  plundered  them  at  every  turn. 


120 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    MUNGO    PARK. 


w 

'  f 


and  as  often  as  they  appeared  too  weak  to  resist,  endeavored  to  extort 
presents  from  them. 

The  condition  of  the  men  now  became  desperate.  Day  after  day 
some  poor  wretch  was  abandoned  to  his  fate,  some  in  one  way,  some  in 
another.  One  example  of  this  kind  may  serve  for  the  whole.  "Three 
miles  east  of  the  village  of  Koombandi,"  says  Park,  "  William  Alston, 
one  of  the  seamen  whom  I  received  from  his  majesty's  ship  Squirrel, 
became  so  faint  that  he  fell  from  his  ass,  and  allowed  the  aas  to  run 
away.  Set  him  on  my  horse,  but  found  he  could  not  sit  without  hold- 
ing him.  Replaced  him  on  the  ass,  but  he  still  tumbled  off.  Put  him 
again  on  the  horse,  and  made  one  man  hold  him  upright  while  I  led  the 
horse ;  but,  as  he  made  no  exertion  to  hold  himself  erect,  it  was  impos- 
sible to  Iveep  him  on  the  horse,  and  after  repeated  tumbles  he  begged 
to  be  left  in  the  woods  till  morning.  I  left  a  loaded  pistol  with  him, 
and  put  some  cartridges  into  the  crown  of  his  hat."  The  next  day  this 
man  came  up  with  the  company,  entirely  naked,  having  been  plundered 
by  the  natives.  His  health  appeared  to  improve  for  some  days,  but  he 
afterward  grew  worse  again,  and  died  before  reaching  the  Niger. 

In  crossing  the  "Wondu  the  caravan  was  nearly  deprived  of  its  guide 
in  the  following  manner.  "  Our  guide,  Isaaco,  was  very  active  in  push- 
ing the  asses  into  the  water,  and  shoving  along  the  canoe ;  but  as  he 
was  afraid  that  we  could  not  have  them  all  carried  over  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  he  attempted  to  drive  six  of  the  asses  across  the  river  further 
down,  whtjo  the  water  was  shallower.  When  he  had  reached  the  middle 
of  the  river,  a  crocodile  rose  close  to  him,  and  instantly  seizing  him  by 
the  left  thigh,  pulled  him  under  water.  With  wonderful  presence  of 
mind  he  felt  the  head  of  the  animal,  and  thrust  his  finger  into  its  eyes, 
on  which  it  quitted  its  hold,  and  Isaaco  attempted  to  reach  the  further 
shore,  calling  loudly  for  a  knife.  But  the  crocodile  returned  and  seized 
him  by  the  other  thigh,  and  again  pulled  him  under  water ;  he  had  re- 
course to  the  same  expedient,  and  thrust  his  fingers  into  its  eyes  with 
such  violence  that  it  again  quitted  him ;  when  it  arose,  flounced  about 
on  the  surface  of  the  water  as  if  stupid,  and  then  swam  down  the  middle 
of  the  river,    Isaaco  proceeded  to  the  other  side,  bleeding  very  much." 

This  event  retarded  for  several  days  the  march  o"  the  caravan.  Be- 
sides, Park  himself  was  attacked  with  fever,  and  their  provisions,  more- 
over, were  now  reduced  to  so  low  an  ebb,  that  upon  examination  it  was 
found  that  no  more  than  rice  for  two  days  rem{uned  in  their  possession. 
This  deficiency  was,  therefore,  to  be  immediately  supplied.  Two  per- 
sons were  sent  away  ■with  an  ass  to  a  distant  village  for  rice,  and  in  the 
mean  time  Park  devoted  his  attentions  to  the  wounds  of  the  guide.  The 
audacity  of  the  native  thieves  was  extraordinary.  In  ascending  an  emi- 
nence two  miles  from  Maniakono,  Park  himself  was  robbed  in  a  very 
characteristic  raanner : — "  As  I  was  holding  my  musket  carelessly  in  my 
hand,  and  looking  around,"  says  he,  "  two  of  Numma's  sons  came  up  to 
me ;  one  of  them  requested  me  to  give  him  some  snuff;  at  this  instant 


yarj 

littll 

redl 

like 

lon^ 

afrnl 

« 
noisj 


ARK.  ! 

eavored  to  extort 

}.    Day  after  day 
one  way,  some  in 
whole.     "Three 
"William  Alston. 
y'8  ship  Squirrel, 
ed  the  ass  to  run 
t  sit  without  hold- 
led  off.    Put  him 
;ht  while  I  led  the 
rect,  it  was  impos- 
irables  he  begged 
i  pistol  with  him, 
The  next  day  this 
ig  been  plundered 
some  days,  but  he 
r  the  Niger, 
prived  of  its  guide 
ery  active  in  push- 
canoe;  but  as  he 
over  in  the  course 
)S3  the  river  further 
reached  the  middle 
itly  seizing  him  by 
[iderful  presence  of 
finger  into  its  eyes, 
to  reach  the  further 
returned  and  seized 
'  water ;  he  had  re- 
1  into  its  eyes  with 
•ose,  flounced  about 
im  down  the  middle 
leeding  very  much." 
)f  the  caravan.    Be- 
3ir  provisions,  more- 
i  examination  it  was 
1  in  their  possession, 
supplied.    Two  per- 
t  for  rice,  and  in  the 
le  of  the  guide.    The 
In  ascending  an  emi- 
ras  robbed  in  a  very 
sket  carelessly  in  my 
ma's  sons  came  up  to 
snuff;  at  this  instant 


DEATHS    OP    THE    SOLDIERS. 


121 


the  other  (called  WooHaba),  coming  up  behind  me,  snatched  the  musket 
from  my  hand,  and  ran  off  with  it.  I  instantly  sprung  from  the  saddle 
and  followed  him  with  my  sword,  calling  to  Mr.  Anderson  to  ride  back, 
and  tell  some  of  the  people  to  look  after  ray  horse.  Mr.  Anderson  got 
M'ithin  musket-shot  of  him ;  but,  seeing  it  was  Numma's  son,  had  some 
doubts  about  shooting  him,  and  called  to  me  if  he  should  fire.  Luckily 
I  did  not  hear  him,  or  I  might  possibly  have  recovered  my  musket  at 
the  risk  of  a  long  palaver,  and  perhaps  the  loss  of  half  our  baggage.  The 
thief  accordingly  made  his  escape  among  the  rocks ;  and  when  I  returned 
to  my  horse,  I  found  the  other  of  the  royal  descendants  had  stolen  ray 
coat." 

Their  condition  was  now  exceedingly  distressing.  From  the  10th  of 
June,  when  the  rainy  season  set  in,  the  entries  in  Park's  journal  are  truly 
heart-rending.  On  the  20th  of  July  he  writes :  "Francis  Beedle,  one  of 
the  soldiers,  was  evidently  dying,  and  having  in  vain  attempted  to  carry 
him  over  tlio  river,  I  was  forced  to  leave  him  on  the  west  bank.  In  the 
morning  one  of  the  soldiers  crossed  the  bridge,  and  found  Beedle  expir- 
ing. Did  not  stop  to  bury  him,  the  sun  being  high  ;  but  set  out  imme- 
diately. About  half-past  ten  came  to  Mr.  Scott  lying  by  the  side  of  the 
road,  so  very  sick  that  ho  could  not  walk.  Shortly  after,  Mr.  Martyn 
laid  down  in  the  same  state."  On  the  27th,  five  men  were  left  behind ; 
on  the  30th,  he  writes :  "  Was  under  the  necessity  of  leaving  William 
Allen,  sick.  I  regretted  rauch  leaving  this  man ;  he  had  naturally  a 
cheerful  disposition ;  and  he  used  often  to  beguile  the  watches  of  the 
night  with  the  songs  of  our  dear  native  land."  On  the  10th  of  August 
four  more  men  lagged  behind,  and  were  never  heard  of  again ;  on  the 
12th,  two  more,  and  Mr.  Anderson  appeared  to  be  dying.  Park  halted 
with  him  under  a  tree,  watching  his  fluttering  pulse,  until  his  strength 
appeared  to  return.  He  then  placed  him  upon  his  own  horse,  and  pushed 
forward  toward  their  proposed  resting-place,  leading  the  horse  by  the 
bridle.  "  We  had  not  proceeded  above  a  mile,"  says  Park,  '*  before  we 
heard  on  our  left  a  noise  very  rauch  like  the  barking  of  a  large  mastiff, 
but  ending  in  a  hiss  like  the  fuff*  of  a  cat.  I  thought  it  must  be  some 
large  monkey ;  and  was  observing  to  Mr.  Anderson,  *  What  a  bouncing 
fellow  that  must  be,'  when  we  heard  another  bark  nearer  to  as,  and 
presently  a  third  still  nearer,  accompanied  with  a  growl.  I  now  sus- 
pected some  wild  beast  meant  to  attack  us,  but  could  not  conjecture  of 
what  species  it  was  likely  to  be.  We  had  not  proceeded  a  hundred 
yards  further,  when,  coming  to  an  opening  in  the  bushes,  I  was  not  a 
little  surprised  to  see  three  lions  coming  toward  us.  They  were  not  bo 
red  as  the  lion  I  had  formerly  seen  in  Bambarra,  but  of  a  dusky  color, 
like  that  of  an  ass.  They  were  very  large,  and  came  bounding  ovr  the 
long  grass,  not  one  after  another,  but  all  abreast  of  each  other.  I  was 
afraid,  if  I  alio  .ed  them  to  come  too  near  us,  and  my  piece  should  miss 

*  Fuff  is  an  expressive  Scotch  word,  applicable  in  its  original  sense  to  the  explosive 
uoise  whicli  a  cat  makes  in  flying  at  a  dog. 


^ 


122 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    MUNGO    PARK. 


fire,  that  we  should  all  be  devoured  by  them,  I  therefore  let  go  the  bri- 
dle, and  walked  forward  to  meet  them.  As  soon  as  they  were  within 
a  long  shot  of  me,  I  fired  at  the  center  one.  I  do  not  think  I  hit  him ; 
but  they  all  stopped,  looked  at  each  other,  and  then  boimded  away  a  few 
paces,  when  one  of  them  stopped  and  looked  back  at  me.  I  was  too  busy 
in  loading  my  piece  to  observe  their  motions  as  they  went  away,  and 
wae  very  happy  to  see  the  last  of  them  march  slowly  oif  .nmong  the 
bushes.  We  had  not  proceeded  above  half  a  mile  further  when  we  heard 
another  bark  and  growl  close  to  us  among  the  busies.  This  was,  doubt- 
less, one  of  the  lions  before  seen ;  and  I  was  afraid  they  would  follow  us 
till  dark,  when  they  would  have  too  many  opportunities  of  springing  on 
us  unawares.    We  however  heard  no  more  of  them." 

At  length,  from  the  brow  of  a  hill.  Park  had  once  more  the  satisfac- 
tion of  beholding  the  Niger,  rolling  its  immense  stream  along  the  plain. 
It  was  the  19th  of  August,  1805,  one  hundred  and  five  days  aller  starting 
from  Pisania.  But  he  Avas  in  no  mood  of  mind  to  triumph  at  the  sight. 
The  majority  of  his  companions  had  fallen  on  the  way;  of  thirty-four  sol- 
diers and  four  caqtenters  who  left  the  Gambia,  only  six  soldiers  and  one 
carpenter  reached  the  Niger.  With  this  miserable  remnant  of  his  ongi- 
nal  force  he  descended  the  hill,  and  pitched  his  tents  near  the  town  of 
Bambakoo.  After  a  day  or  two  he  advanced  to  Marraboo  to  await  the 
answer  of  the  King  of  Bambarra.  On  the  2d  of  September  ho  writes : 
"Ever  since  my  arrival  at  Marraboo  I  had  been  subject  to  attacks  of  the 
dysentery ;  and  as  I  found  that  my  strength  was  failing  very  fiist,  I  re- 
solved to  charge  myself  with  mercury.  I  accordingly  took  calomel  till 
it  affected  my  mouth  to  such  a  degree  that  I  could  not  speak  or  sleep 
for  six  days.  The  salivation  put  an  immediate  stop  to  the  dysentery, 
which  had  proved  fatal  to  so  many  of  the  soldiers."  On  the  6th  one  of  his 
remaining  men  died,  two  others  at  Samee  on  the  24th,  and  yet  two  more 
at  Sansanding  on  the  2d  of  October.  At  Bambakoo  some  of  the  party 
embarked  in  canoes  on  the  Niger,  while  others  proceeded  by  land  to  the 
neighborhood  of  Sego,  which  they  reached  on  the  19th  of  Septeipber. 
Mansong  was  still  King  of  Bambarra ;  and  being  highly  gratified  with 
their  presents,  not  only  gave  them  permission  to  build  a  boat  on  the  Ni- 
ger at  whatever  town  they  pleased,  but  engaged  to  protect,  as  far  as  his 
power  extended,  the  trade  of  the  whites  in  the  interior.  Park  selected 
Sansanding  as  the  place  most  eligible  for  building  the  boat,  and  removed 
thither  as  quickly  as  possible.  Here  immediately  on  his  arrival  he  opened 
a  shop,  exhibiting  a  choice  as.soitment  of  European  goods,  which  sold  so 
well  among  the  natives  that  his  success  excited  the  envy  of  the  Jenne 
people,  the  Moors,  .and  the  other  merchants  of  the  place,  who  offered 
Mansong  merchandise  to  a  much  greater  value  than  the  presents  made 
him  by  Park,  if  he  would  either  kill  the  strangers  or  drive  them  out  of 
the  country.  Mansong,  however,  rejected  the  offer.  "  From  the  8th  to 
the  16th  nothing  of  consequence  occurred ;  I  found  my  shop  every  day 
more  and  more  crowded  with  customers ;  and  such  was  my  run  of  busi- 


I 


lRK. 

ire  let  go  the  bri- 
they  were  within 

think  I  hit  him; 
inded  away  a  few 
..  I  was  too  busy 
jT  went  away,  and 
ly  off  oraong  the 
er  when  we  heard 

This  was,  doubts 
.y  would  follow  us 
cs  of  springing  on 

.  more  the  eatisfac- 
im  along  the  plain, 
days  aller  starting 
iumph  at  the  sight. 
;  of  thirty-four  Bol- 
dx  soldiers  and  one 
umnantofhisorigi- 
.3  near  the  town  of 
.rraboo  to  await  the 
jpteraber  he  writes : 
ect  to  attacks  of  the 
liling  very  fivst,  I  re- 
tly  took  calomel  till 
'not  speak  or  sleep 
op  to  the  dysentery, 
DntheCthoneofhis 
h,  and  yet  two  more 
0  some  of  the  party 
ceded  by  land  to  the 
19th  of  Septcipber. 
highly  gratified  with 
ild  a  boat  on  the  Ni- 
)rotect,  as  far  as  hia 
ior.    Park  selected 
16  boat,  and  removed 
his  arrival  he  opened 
goods,  which  sold  so 
0  envy  of  the  Jenne 
le  place,  who  offered 
m  the  presents  made 
or  drive  them  out  of 
»  From  the  8th  to 
my  shop  every  day 
was  my  run  of  busi- 


LAST    LETTERS    AND    EMBARKATION. 


123 


ncRs,  that  I  was  sometimes  forced  to  employ  three  tellers  at  once  to 
count  my  cash.  I  turned  one  market-day  twenty-five  thousand  seven 
hundred  and  fifty-six  pieces  of  money  (cowries)." 

Park  now  received  intelligence  of  the  death  of  Mr.  Scott,  wlio  Iiad 
been  left  behind  near  Bambakoo.  Mansoug  very  soon  convinced  the 
traveler  that  he  understood  the  art  of  receiving  presents  much  bettor 
than  that  of  returning  them ;  for  upon  being  requested  to  furnish  a  oanoo 
in  which  the  mission,  now  reduced  to  a  very  small  number,  might  em- 
bark on  the  Niger,  he  sent  one  after  another  several  half-rotten  barks ; 
two  of  Avhich  Park,  seeing  no  hope  of  getting  better,  was  at  length  com- 
pelled to  accept,  and  with  these  he  constructed  what  ho  termed  a 
schooner.  Shortly  after  this  he  lost  his  brother-in-law  Anderson,  upon 
whose  death  "  I  felt  myself,"  says  he, "  aa  if  left  a  second  time  lonely  and 
friendless  amid  the  wilds  of  Africa."  Dreary  and  perilous  as  was  hia 
position,  however,  he  still  determined  to  persevere.  His  companions 
were  now  reduced  to  four.  Lieutenant  Martyn  and  three  soldiers,  one  of 
Avhom  was  deranged  in  his  mind ;  yet  Avith  this  wretched  remnant  of  a 
detachment  which,  it  must  be  confessed,  had  been  thus  thinned,  or  rather 
annihilated,  by  his  own  ill  management  and  want  of  foresight,  ho  pur- 
posed following  the  course  of  the  Niger  to  its  termination,  whether  that 
should  prove  to  be  in  some  great  lake  or  inland  sea,  or,  as  he  rather  be- 
lieved, in  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  "  And  this  voyage,"  says  one  of  his  biogra- 
phers, "  one  of  the  most  formidable  ever  attempted,  was  to  be  undertaken 
in  a  crazy  and  ill-appointed  vessel,  manned  by  a  few  negroes  and  a  few 
Europeans !" 

On  the  16th  of  November,  having  completed  all  the  necessary  pre- 
parations for  his  voyage,  our  traveler  put  the  finishing  hand  to  his  jour- 
nal ;  and  in  the  inten-al,  between  that  and  his  embarkation,  which  seems 
to  have  taken  place  on  the  19th,  wrote  several  letters  to  England.  His 
letter  to  Lord  Camden  contained  the  following  characteristic  passage : 
"  I  am  afraid  that  your  Lordship  will  be  apt  to  consider  matters  aa  in  a 
very  hopeless  state ;  but  I  assure  yon  I  am  far  from  desponding.  With 
the  assistance  of  one  of  the  soldiers  I  have  changed  a  large  canoe  into  a 
tolerably  good  schooner,  on  board  of  which  I  this  day  hoisted  the  Brit- 
ish flag,  and  shall  set  sail  to  the  east  with  the  fixed  resolution  to  discover 
the  termination  of  the  Niger,  or  perish  in  the  attempt.  I  have  heard 
nothing  that  I  can  depend  on  respecting  the  remote  course  of  this  mighty 
stream ;  but  I  am  more  and  more  inclined  to  think  that  it  can  end  no- 
where but  in  the  sea.  My  dear  friend  Mr.  Anderson,  and  likewise  Mr. 
Scott,  are  both  dead  ;  but  though  all  the  Europeans  who  are  with  me 
should  die,  and  though  I  were  myself  half  dead,  I  would  still  persevere; 
and  if  I  could  not  succeed  in  the  object  of  my  journey,  I  would  at  last 
die  on  the  Niger." 

These  letters,  together  with  his  journal,  were  then  delivered  to  hia 
guide,  Isaaco,  by  whom  they  were  conveyed  to  Gambia,  from  whence 
they  were  transmitted  to  England ;  after  which  nothing  certain  or  au- 


TT 


124 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS    OF    MUNOO    PARK. 


thentic  can  be  said  to  have  been  heard  either  of  Park  or  the  expedition. 
In  1806,  however,  vague  accounts  of  the  death  of  Park  and  his  compan- 
ions were  brought  to  the  British  settlement  on  the  coast  by  the  native 
traders  from  the  interior ;  but  several  years  elapsed  without  any  further 
intelligence  bemg  obtained.  At  length,  in  1810,  Colonel  Maxwe'l,  gov- 
ernor of  Senegal,  dispatched  Park's  guide,  Isaaco,  into  the  interior,  for 
the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  truth  or  falsehood  of  the  reports  which 
prevailed,  and,  should  they  prove  correct,  of  collecting  information  re- 
specting the  place  and  manner  of  the  catastrophe. 

After  an  absence  of  one  year  and  eight  months,  Isaaco  returned  to 
Senegal,  and  delivered  to  the  governor  a  journal  of  his  proceedings, 
including  a  narrative  which  be  had  received  from  Amadi  Fatouma,  the 
guide  who  had  accompanied  Park  from  Sansanding  down  the  Niger. 
Tlie  particulars  of  Isaaco's  adventures  it  is  altogether  unnecessary  to 
describe.  lie  found  Amadi  Fatouma  at  Medina,  a  village  distant  a  few 
hours  from  Sansanding.  On  seeing  Isaaco,  and  hearing  the  name  of 
Park,  he  began  to  weep,  and  his  first  words  were,  "  They  are  all  dead." 
The  recollection  of  the  melancholy  transaction  appeared  to  affect  him  in 
an  extraordinary  manner,  and  it  M'as  with  the  utmost  reluctance  that  he 
at  length  consented  to  recall  to  memory  an  event  which  he  seemed  pe- 
culiarly desirous  of  delivering  over  to  oblivion.  However,  upon  the 
pressing  entreaties  of  Isaaco,  he  narrated  circumstantially  what  had 
taken  place.  Upon  leaving  Sansanding,  there  were,  he  said,  nine  persons 
in  the  canoe.  Park,  Martyn,  three  other  white  men,  three  slaves,  and 
myself  as  their  guide  and  interpreter.  They  had  proceeded  but  a  very 
little  way  down  the  river  before  they  were  pursued  and  attacked  by  the 
Africans,  in  canoes,  particularly  in  passing  Timbuctoo,  where  a  great 
number  of  the  natives  were  killed.  Shortly  after  passing  Goroumo,  they 
lost  one  white  man  by  sickness.  They  were  now,  therefore,  reduced  to 
eight ;  but  as  each  person  had  always  fifteen  muskets  loaded  and  ready 
for  action,  they  were  still  formidable  to  their  enemies. 

As  Park  had  laid  in  a  considerable  quantity  of  provisions  previous  to 
his  leaving  Sansanding,  he  was  enabled  to  proceed  for  several  days  with- 
out stopping  at  any  place,  which  is  the  only  circumstance  that  can  ac- 
count for  his  passing  in  safety  through  the  country  of  so  many  hostile 
nations.  At  length,  however,  their  wants  compelled  them  to  have  some 
comnninication  with  the  shore.  "We  came,"  says  Amadi  Fatouma, 
"  near  a  small  island,  and  saw  some  of  the  natives.  I  was  sent  on  shore 
to  buy  some  miik.  When  I  got  among  them  I  saw  two  canoes  go  on 
board  to  sell  fresh  provisions,  such  as  fowls,  rice,  etc.  One  of  the  natives 
wanted  to  kill  me,  and  at  last  he  took  hold  of  me  and  said  I  was  his  pris- 
oner. Mr.  Park,  seeuig  what  was  passing  on  shore,  suspected  the  truth. 
He  stopped  the  two  canoes  and  people,  telling  the  latter  that  if  they 
should  Idll  me,  or  keep  me  prisoner  on  shore,  he  would  kill  them  all  and 
carry  their  canoes  away  with  him.  Those  on  shore,  suspecting  Mr. 
Park's  intentions,  sent  mo  off  in  another  canoe  on  board.    They  were 


PARK 


k  or  the  expedition, 
irk  and  his  compan- 
coast  by  the  native 
(dthout  any  further 
lonel  Maxwe'l,  gov- 
to  the  interior,  for 
f  the  reports  which 
ting  information  rc- 

i,  Isaaco  returned  to 
of  his  proceeduigs, 
Vmadi  Fatouma,  the 
ig  down  the  Niger. 
ther  unnecessary  to 
village  distant  a  few 
earing  the  name  of 
'  They  are  all  dead." 
sared  to  affect  him  in 
St  reluctance  that  he 
which  he  seemed  pe- 
However,  upon  the 
istantially  what  had 
,  he  said,  nine  persons 
len,  three  slaves,  and 
proceeded  but  a  very 
[  and  attacked  by  the 
ictoo,  where  a  great 
lassing  Goroumo,  they 
therefore,  reduced  to 
tets  loaded  and  ready 
ies. 

provisions  previous  to 
for  several  days  with- 
imstance  that  can  ac- 
try  of  so  many  hostile 
ed  them  to  have  some 
lays  Amadi  Fatouma, 
.    I  was  sent  on  shore 
aw  two  canoes  go  on 
to.    One  of  the  natives 
and  said  I  was  his  pris- 
e,  suspected  the  truth, 
the  latter  that  if  they 
rould  kiU  them  all  and 
shore,  suspecting  Mr. 
on  board.    They  were 


AMADI    FATOUMA'S   JOURNAL. 


125 


then  released,  after  which  we  bought  some  provisions  from  them  and 
made  them  some  presents.  A  short  time  after  our  departure  twenty 
canoes  came  after  us  from  the  same  place.  On  coming  near  they  hailed, 
and  said,  'Amadi  Fatouma,  how  can  you  pass  through  our  country  with- 
givuig  us  any  thing  ?'  I  mentioned  what  they  had  said  to  Mr.  Park,  and 
he  gave  them  a  few  grains  of  amber  and  some  trinkets,  and  they  went 
back  peaceably.  On  coming  to  a  narrow  part  of  the  river,  we  saw  on 
the  shore  a  great  many  men  sittbg  down  ;  coming  nearer  to  them  they 
stood  up ;  we  presented  our  muskets  at  tliem,  which  made  them  run  off 
into  the  interior.  A  little  further  on  we  came  to  a  very  difficult  passage. 
The  rocks  had  barred  the  river,  but  three  passages  were  still  open  be- 
tween them.  On  coming  near  one  of  tliem  we  discovered  the  same 
people  agam,  standing  on  the  top  of  a  large  rock,  which  caused  great 
uneasmess  to  us,  especially  to  me,  and  I  seriously  promised  never  to  pass 
there  again  without  making  considerable  charitable  donations  to  the  poor. 
We  returned  and  went  to  a  pass  of  less  danger,  where  wo  passed  unmo- 
lested. 

"We  came-to  before  Carmassee,  and  gave  the  chief  one  piece  of  baft. 
We  went  on  and  anchored  before  Gourman.  Mr.  Park  sent  me  on  shore 
with  forty  thousand  cowries  to  buy  provisions.  I  went  and  bought  rice, 
onions,  fowls,  milk,  etc.,  and  departed  late  in  the  evening.  The  chief 
of  the  village  sent  a  canoe  after  us  to  let  us  know  of  a  large  army  en- 
camped on  the  top  of  a  very  high  mountain  waiting  for  us,  and  that 
we  had  better  return  or  be  on  our  guard.  We  immediately  came  to  an 
anchor,  and  spent  there  the  rest  of  the  day  and  all  the  night.  We 
started  in  the  morning.  On  passing  the  above-mentioned  monntam  we 
saw  the  army,  composed  of  Moors,  with  horses  and  camels,  but  without 
any  fire-arms.  As  they  said  nothing  to  us  we  passed  on  quietly,  and 
entered  the  country  of  Haoussa,  and  came  to  an  anchor.  Mr.  Park  said 
to  me,  *  Now,  Amadi,  you  are  at  the  end  of  your  journey ;  I  engaged 
you  to  conduct  me  here ;  you  are  going  to  leave  me ;  but  before  you  go 
you  must  give  me  the  names  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  etc.,  in  the  Ian- 
guage  of  the  countries  through  which  I  am  gomg  to  pass ;'  to  which  I 
agreed,  and  we  spent  two  days  together  about  it  without  landing.  Dur- 
ing  our  voyage  I  was  the  only  one  who  had  landed.  We  departed,  and 
arrived  at  Yaour.  I  was  sent  on  shore  the  next  morning  with  a  musket 
and  a  saber  to  carry  to  the  chief  of  the  village  ;  also  with  three  pieces 
of  white  baft  for  distribution.  I  went  and  gave  the  chief  his  present ;  I 
also  gave  one  to  Alhagi,  one  to  Alhagi-biron,  and  the  other  to  a  person 
whose  name  I  forget ;  all  Marabous.  The  chief  gave  us  a  bullock,  a 
sheep,  three  jars  of  honey,  and  four  men's  loads  of  rice.  Mr.  Park  gave 
me  seven  thousand  cowries,  and  ordered  me  to  buy  provisions,  which  I 
did.  He  told  me  to  go  to  the  chief  and  give  him  five  silver  rings,  some 
powder  and  flints,  and  tell  him  that  these  presents  were  given  to  the  king 
by  the  white  men,  who  were  taking  leave  of  him  before  they  went  away. 
After  the  chief  received  these  things,  he  inquired  if  the  white  men  in- 


7 


126 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS    OF    MUNOO    PARK. 


tended  to  come  back.  Mr.  Park,  being  infonned  of  this  inquiry,  replied 
that  he  could  not  return  any  more.  Mr.  Park  had  paid  me  for  my  voy- 
a<re  before  we  left  Sansanding.  I  said  to  him,  '  I  agreed  to  carry  you 
into  the  kingdom  of  Haoussa ;  we  are  now  in  Haoussa.  I  have  fulhlled 
my  engagement  with  you ;  I  am  therefore  gohig  to  leave  you  here  and 

'^^  On  the  next  day  Park  departed,  leaving  the  guide  at  the  village  of 
Yaour,  where  ho  was  put  in  irons  by  an  order  from  the  king,  from  a  sup- 
position that  he  had  aided  the  white  men  in  defraudmg  him  of  the  cus- 
tomary presents,  which  the  chief  of  Yaour  had  in  fact  received,  but 
retained  for  himself.     "The  next  morning,  early,"  continues  the  guide, 
"the  king  sent  an  army  to  a  village  called  Boussa  near  the  nver-side. 
There  is  before  this  village  a  rock  across  the  whole  breadth  of  the  river. 
One  part  of  the  rock  is  very  high ;  there  is  a  large  opening  in  that  rock 
in  the  form  of  a  door,  which  is  the  only  passage  for  the  water  to  pass 
through;  the  tide  current  is  here  very  strong.    This  army  went  and 
took  possession  of  the  top  of  this  opening.    Mr.  Park  came  there  after 
the  army  had  posted  itself;  he  nevertheless  attempted  to  pass.     Ihe 
people  began  to  attack  him,  throwing  lances,  pikes,  arrows  and  stones. 
Mr.  Park  defended  himself  for  a  longtime;  two  of  his  slaves  at  the 
stern  of  the  canoe  were  killed;  they  threw  every  thmg  they  had  m  the 
canoe  into  the  river,  and  kept  tiring ;  but  being  overpowered  by  num- 
bers, and  fatigued,  and  unable  to  keep  the  canoe  agamst  the  current,  and 
no  probability  of  escaping,  Mr.  Park  took  hold  of  one  of  the  white  men 
and  jumped  into  the  water;  Mr.  Martin  did  the  same,  and  they  were 
drowned  in  the  stream  in  attempting  to  escape.    The  only  slave  remain- 
ing in  the  boat,  seeing  the  natives  persist  in  thromng  weapons  at  the 
canoe  without  ceasing,  stood  up  and  said  to  them,  'Stop  throwmg  now, 
you  see  nothmg  in  the  canoe,  and  nobody  but  m.ielf;  therefore  cease 
Take  me  and  the  canoe,  but  don't  kill  me.'    They  took  possession  of 
the  canoe  and  the  man,  and  carried  them  to  the  fang. 

"I  was  kept  in  irons  three  months;  the  fang  released  me,  and  gave 
me  a  slave  (woman).  I  immediately  went  to  the  fave  ta^en  m  the 
canoe,  who  told  me  in  what  manner  Mr.  Park  and  all  of  them  had  died 
and  what  I  have  related  above.  I  asked  him  if  he  was  sure  nothing  had 
been  found  m  the  canoe  after  its  capture ;  he  said  nothing  remamed  m 
the  canoe  but  himself  and  a  sword-belt.  I  asked  hmi  where  the  sword- 
belt  was;  he  said  the  kmg  took  it,  and  had  made  a  girth  for  his  horse 

\iritli  it.  ^' 

i  SuJh  is  the  narrative  of  Amadi  Fatouma;  and  the  information  since 

obtained  in  the  country  by  Captain  Clappeiton  corroborates  ahnost 

I     every  important  circumstance  which  it  describes.    It  appears,  however, 

I  that  certain  books-whether  printed  or  manuscript  does  not  appear- 
were  found  in  Park's  canoe,  some  of  which  were  stiU  in  the  possession 

i  of  the  chief  of  Yaour  when  Clapperton  made  his  inqmries ;  but  the  wily 
African,  who  no  doubt  expected  a  valuable  present  for  these  rehcs, 


U--^- 


0    PARK. 


HIS    PROBABLK    FATE. 


127 


f  this  inquiry,  replied 

paid  me  for  my  voy- 

agreed  to  carry  you 

ussa.     I  have  fulfilled 

o  leave  you  here  and 

uide  at  the  village  of 

the  king,  from  a  sup- 

iding  him  of  the  cus- 

in  fact  received,  but 

continues  the  guide, 

near  the  river-side. 

!  breadth  of  the  river. 

!  opening  in  that  rock 

"or  the  water  to  pass 

This  army  went  and 

'ark  came  there  after 

mpted  to  pass.    The 

2fl,  arrows,  and  stones. 

0  of  his  slaves  at  the 
r  thing  they  had  in  the 

overpowered  by  num- 
igainst  the  current,  and 
'  one  of  the  white  men 
!  same,  and  they  were 
The  only  slave  remain- 
owing  weapons  at  the 
, '  Stop  throwing  now, 
i_,jelf;  theretbro  cease, 
ley  took  possession  of 
dng. 

released  me,  and  gave 
he  slave  taken  in  the 
id  all  of  them  had  died, 
e  was  sure  nothing  had 
id  nothing  remained  in 

1  him  where  the  sword- 
le  a  girth  for  his  horse 

1  the  information  since 
m  corroborates  almost 
,  It  appears,  however, 
sript  does  not  appear — 
i  still  in  the  possession 
inquiries ;  but  the  wily 
resent  for  these  relics, 


refused  to  deliver  thorn  to  the  traveler's  messenger,  and  Clapperton  him- 
self, for  some  reason  or  another  not  stated,  neglected  to  visit  the  chief 
in  person.  It  should  be  remarked,  that  the  Africans  who  were  ques- 
tioned by  CIapj)erton  seemed  all  exceedingly  desirous  of  exculpating 
their  coinitrymen,  perhaps  their  own  friends  and  relations,  from  the 
charge  of  hu\-ing  murdered  Park  and  his  companions :  according  to  one 
narrator,  the  canoo  was  caught  between  two  rocks,  where  the  river, 
being  obstructed  in  its  course,  rushed  through  its  narrow  channel  with 
prodigous  rapidity.  Here  the  travelers,  in  attempting  to  disembark, 
were  drowned  in  the  sight  of  an  immense  multitude  who  had  assembled 
to  see  them  pass,  and  were  too  timid  to  attack  or  assist  them.  On  an- 
other occasion,  however,  the  same  person  confessed  that  his  countrymen 
did  indeed  discharge  their  arrows  at  the  travelers,  but  not  until  they 
had  been  fired  upon  from  the  canoe.  But  the  sheriif  of  Bokhary,  whose 
letter  was  found  among  the  MSS.  of  Clapperton,  asserts  that  the  inhabi- 
tants of  lioussa  M'cnt  out  against  the  white  men  in  great  numbers,  and 
attacked  them  during  three  successive  days ;  after  which  Park  and  Mar- 
tyn,  who  from  this  account  Avould  appear  to  have  been  the  only  Euro- 
pean survivors,  threw  their  papers  and  baggage  into  the  water,  and  leap- 
ing in  atlcr  them  Avere  drowned  in  the  stream.  This  melancholy  event 
appears  to  have  occurred  between  three  and  four  months  after  the  de- 
parture of  the  expedition  from  Sansanding,  or  about  the  Istof  March,  180G. 

Park  possessed  in  a  high  degree  the  qualities  necessary  for  a  success- 
ful traveler:  intrepidity,  enthusiasm,  perseverance,  veracity,  and  pru- 
dence, all  of  which  wore  admirably  illustrated  by  his  first  journey.  Few 
men  have  passed  through  circumstances  so  trying,  with  equal  nerve  and 
self-possession;  but  it  is  to  be  doubted  whether  these  merits  were 
equally  consiiicuous  during  his  second  expedition.  Half  of  the  men, 
whose  lives  were  sacrificed  to  his  haste  and  impatience,  might  have  given 
his  party  sufficient  strength  to  carry  him  through  the  territory  of  Boussa 
and  the  hostile  tribes  beyond,  and  assured  alike  his  safety  and  bis  tri- 
umph. But  the  blame  of  his  failure,  no  doubt,  rests  mainly  upon  the 
British  government,  through  Avhose  procrastination  he  was  kept  for  two 
years  in  a  state  of  painful  suspense,  and  finally  delayed  in  his  prepara- 
tions, until  the  favorable  season  for  traveling  had  nearly  passed. 

In  person  Park  was  tall,  being  about  six  feet  high,  and  perfectly  well 
proportioned.  His  countenance  and  whole  appearance  were  highly 
interesting ;  his  frame  active  and  robust,  fitted  for  great  exertions  and 
the  endurance  of  extreme  hardships.  His  constitution  had  sufiered  con- 
siderably from  the  efiects  of  his  first  journey  into  Africa,  but  seems 
afterward  to  have  been  restored  to  its  original  vigor,  of  which  his  last 
expedition  afforded  the  most  abundant  proofs.  In  all  the  relations  of 
private  life  he  appears  to  have  been  highly  exemplary.  To  the  more 
gentle  and  amiable  parts  of  hia  character  the  most  certain  of  all  testimo- 
nies may  be  found  in  the  warm  attachment  of  his  friends,  and  in  the  fond 
and  aflfectionate  recollections  of  every  branch  of  his  femily. 


I 


P 


*' 

4 


>  \ 


LEWIS  AND  CLARKE'S 


JOURNEY  TO  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


VOYAGE    UP    THE    MISSOURI. 

On  the  acquisition  of  Louisiana,  in  the  year  1803,  the  attention  of  tlie 
government  of  the  United  States  was  directed  toward  exploring  and  im- 
proving the  new  territory.  Accordingly,  in  the  summer  of  the  same 
year,  an  expedition  was  planned  by  President  Jefferson  for  the  purpose 
of  discovering  the  course  and  sources  of  the  Missouri  River,  and  the  most 
convenient  water-communication  thence  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  His  pri- 
vate secretary.  Captain  Meriwether  Lewis,  and  Captjun  William  Clarke, 
both  officers  of  the  army  of  the  United  States,  were  associated  in  the 
command  of  this  enterprise.  After  receiving  the  requisite  instnictions, 
Captain  Lewis  left  the  seat  of  government,  and  being  joined  by  C.-iptain 
Clarke  at  Louisville,  proceeded  to  St,  Louis,  where  they  arrived  in  the 
month  of  December.  Their  ori^al  intention  was  to  pass  the  winter 
at  La  Charette,  then  the  highest  settlement  on  the  Missouri,  but  the 
Spanish  commandant  of  the  province,  not  having  received  an  official  ac- 
count of  its  transfer  to  the  United  States,  was  obliged,  by  the  general 
policy  of  his  government,  to  prevent  strangers  from  passing  through  the 
Spanish  territory. 

They  therefore  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  Wood  River,  on  the  east- 
em  side  of  the  Mississippi,  out  of  his  jurisdiction,  where  they  passed  the 
winter  in  disciplining  the  men,  and  making  the  necessary  preparations 
for  setting  out  early  in  the  spring,  before  which  the  cession  was  officially 
announced.  The  party  consisted  of  nine  young  men  from  Kentucky, 
fourteen  soldiers  of  the  United  States  Army  who  volunteered  their  ser%'- 
ices,  two  French  watermen,  an  interpreter  and  hunter,  and  a  black  serv- 
ant belonging  to  Captain  Clarke.  AH  these,  except  the  last,  were  en- 
listed to  serve  as  privates  during  the  expedition,  and  three  sergeants 
were  appointed  from  among  them  by  the  captains.  In  addition  to 
these  were  engaged  a  corporal  and  six  soldiers,  and  nine  watermen  to 
accompany  the  expedition  as  far  as  the  Mandan  nation,  in  order  to  assist 

9 


IT* 


■V 


\.iS^ 


130  TRAVELS    OF    LEWIS    AND    CLARKE. 

in  ,"UTvm-  the  stores,  or  repelling  an  attack,  ul.ieh  was  most  to  be  a,.- 
.  ,""^  l"ri.etweon  Wno.l  lliver  and  that  tribe.    The  ,-rty  was   o  e.n- 
;^     bLaot-threc  boats;  the  first  wasukeeU.oatmiy.^^^^ 
W  UK  three  feet  of  water,  carrying  one  large  squaresail  and  twen - 
r." u^  •  a  deek  of  ten  feet  in  the  bow  and  stern  fonned  a  loreca«t.c  and 
1^      vliile  the  nuddle  was  eovered  by  lockers,  whUh  nught  be  raised 
;       t    R  r  u  a  broast-work  in  case  of  attack.    This  wa.  accompanied 
.■  w    T   r  1       or  open  boats,  one  of  six  and  the  other  of  seven  oars. 
!  U     .;:rwere  at  the  san.c  time  to  be  led  along  the  bank  of  the  nv^ 
for  the  purpose  of  bringing  home  game,  or  huntmg,  ni  case  ot  sca.citj. 

AU    ^preparation;  being  completed,  they  left  their  encampment  on 
Wood  river,  opi-osite  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  14th  o    Majs 
18       -ud  on  the  10th  arrived  at  St.  Charles,  situated  on  the  north  bank 
of  1 :.  Mils"  uri,  twenty-onc  miles  from  its  mouth.    This  was  then  a  town 
:•  about    our  hundred  and  fifty  inhabitants,  chiefly  the  ^--J-^-/ 
"he  French  of  Canada.    Hero  they  remained  a  few  ^«y«  ^vmtrng  for  Cap- 
,1  T  ewis  who  had  been  detained  by  business  at  St.  Louis     When  he 
"h^  they  a^ain  set  sail,  on  the  afternoon  of  Monday  the  21st,  but 
w:;"p;eventeribywin     and  rain  from  going  more  than  three  miles, 
when  thev  encamped  upon  an  island,  ^    e^r,-  *„  «- 

Two  miles  above  their  next  camp,  they  passed  a  settlement  of  thirty  or 
fortv  Wes  from  the  United  States,  and  further  on,  at  tljc  foot  of  el  ffs 
S  tmdrc!d  feet  high,  they  saw  a  large  --ailed  the  T^^^^^^^^^ 
traders  who  had  painted  in  it  some  images  that  commanded  the  homage 
of  the  imirns.  On  the  24th  they  passed  some  difficult  rapids  where,  be- 
tween  the  dangers  of  the  falling  banks  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  on- 
sr^Hly  'hanging  sand-bars  on  the  other,  they  came  near  capsizing  their 
0^^  On  the  evening  of  the  next  day  (25th),  they  stopped  for  the  night 
n  a  \helall village tf  La  Charette,  about seventymilesiromthemou^^ 

of  the  river.  It  consisted  of  seven  small  houses,  and  as  '"»"y  P^^^/^ 
hes  whohad  fixed  themselves  here  for  the  convenience  of  trade,  and 
fomed  th  last  establishment  of  whites  on  the  Missouri  They  were 
aJaTn  detained  a  day  on  the  31st  at  their  encampment  on  the  Grindstone 
C^kCh  highw'estwindandrain.  Intheafternoonaboatcam^^ 

fr^n  the'osage^River,  bringing  a  letter  from  a  ^--f-  -"  ^^^^  ^^^ 
(),a-e  nation  on  the  Arkansas  River,  which  mentioned  that  the  letter 
.nnmmcing  the  cession  of  Louisiana  was  committed  to  the  flames ;    ha 
the  IndiL!  would  not  believe  that  the  Americans  were  owners  of  that 
country  and  disregarded  St.  Louis  and  its  supplies. 
''"o?;hT5thof  June  they  met  two  French  trader.^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
raft  from  their  winter  quarters,  eighty  leagues  "P  f^  J^^^f^Xf 
where  they  had  caught  great  quantities  of  beaver,  but  had  lost  much  oi 
rhelrVlTby  fires  from  the  prairies.    Soon  afterward  they  passed  Little 
Ma  itmiCreek  which  was  named  from  a  strange  figure  resemblmg  the 
S  oTa  man    with  the  horns  of  a  stag,  painted  on  a  pr^^ctmg  roc^ 
aud  probably  representing  some  spirit  or  deity.      On  the  7tli  tnty 


J 


KB. 

ivas  most  to  bo  ait- 
L^  party  was  to  cin- 
litly-tivc  feet  long, 
lesail  and  twcnty- 
uil  a  forecastle  and 
•h  might  bo  raised 
i  waa  accompanied 
ther  of  Bovcn  oars. 

0  bank  of  tbe  river 
n  case  of  scarcity, 
cir  encampment  on 
u  the  14th  of  May, 

1  on  the  north  bank 
liis  was  then  a  town 

the  descendants  of 
ays  waiting  for  Cap- 
t.  Louis.  When  he 
ondaythc  2l8t,  but 
•c  than  three  miles, 

ttlemcnt  of  thirty  or 
1,  at  the  foot  of  cliffs 
d  the  Tavern  by  the 
imanded  the  homage 
!ult  rapids  where,  bc- 
a  hand,  and  the  con- 
near  capsizing  their 
stopped  for  the  night 
miles  from  the  mouth 
d  as  many  poor  fami- 
■nience  of  trade,  and 
Missouri.    They*  were 
ent  on  the  Grindstone 
oon  a  boat  came  down 
lessenger  sent  to  the 
tioned  that  the  letter 
3d  to  the  flames ;  that 
i  were  owners  of  that 

iders,  descending  on  a 
up  the  Kanzas  River, 
,  but  had  lost  much  of 
•ard  they  passed  Little 
figure  resembling  the 
I  on  a  projecting  rock, 
y.      On  the  nh  they 


FIRST    INDIAN    COUNCILS. 


181 


pjMsod  Big  Manitoti  Creek,  near  which  was  a  limestone  rock  inlaid  with 
flint  of  v.irious  colors  and  covered  with  uncouth  paintings  of  animals,  and 
inscriptions.  They  landed  to  examine  it,  but  found  the  place  infested 
with  rattlesnakes,  of  which  they  killed  three.  Meeting  two  rafts  from 
the  Sioux  nation,  loaded  with  furs  and  buflalo-tallow,  they  engaged  one 
of  the  party,  a  Mr.  Durion,  who  had  lived  more  than  twenty  years  with  the 
Sioux,  and  was  high  in  their  confidence,  to  accompany  them  thither. 

They  continued  to  advance  but  slowly,  their  progress  being  greatly 
impeded  by  the  numerous  rolling  sandbanks,  the  strong  current  and 
frequent  head-winds,  while  the  dangers  of  the  navigation  were  increased 
on  the  one  hand  by  the  sunken  trees,  on  the  other  by  the  falling  in  of 
the  banks.  They  reached  the  Kanzas  River  on  the  26th,  and  encamped 
on  the  low  point  above  its  mouth,  whore  they  remained  two  days  and 
made  the  necessary  observations,  recruited  the  party,  and  repaired  the 
boat.  They  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Platte  on  the  evening  of  July 
21st,  and  having  found,  at  the  distance  of  ten  miles  above  its  junction, 
a  high  and  shaded  situation,  they  encamped  there,  intending  to  make 
the  requisite  obsen-ations  as  well  as  to  send  for  the  neighboring  tribes, 
for  the  purpose  of  making  known  the  recent  change  in  the  government, 
and  the  wish  of  the  United  States  to  ctiltivate  their  friendship. 

Having  completed  the  object  of  their  stay,  they  set  sail  on  the  27th, 
and  on  the  30th  again  encamped  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  Indians. 
On  the  evening  of  August  2d,  a  band  of  Ott(  ^ways  and  Missouris  ap- 
peared, and  next  morning  the  Indians,  with  their  six  chiefs,  were  assem- 
bled under  an  awning,  formed  with  the  main-sail,  in  the  presence  of  all 
the  party,  paraded  for  the  occasion.  A  speech  was  then  made,  an- 
nouncing to  them  the  change  of  government,  with  promise  of  protection, 
and  advice  as  to  their  future  conduct.  All  the  six  chiefs  replied,  each 
in  turn,  according  to  rank.  They  expressed  their  joy  at  the  change  in 
the  government,  and  their  desire  to  be  recommended  to  their  great 
father  (the  President),  that  they  might  obtain  trade  and  necessaries. 
They  wanted  arms  for  hunting  and  for  defense,  and  asked  for  mediation 
between  them  and  the  Mahas,  with  whom  they  were  then  at  war.  "  We 
promised  to  do  so,"  says  Captain  Clarke,  "  and  wished  some  of  them  to 
accompany  us  to  that  nation,  which  they  declined,  for  fear  of  being 
killed  by  them.  We  then  proceeded  to  distribute  our  presents.  The 
grandchief  of  the  nation  not  being  of  the  party,  we  sent  him  a  flag,  a 
medal,  and  some  ornaments  for  clothing.  To  the  six  chiefs  who  were 
present,  we  gave  a  medal  of  the  second  grade  to  one  Ottoway  chief, 
and  one  Missouri  chief;  a  medal  of  the  third  grade  to  two  inferior 
chiefs  of  each  nation — the  customary  mode  of  recognizing  a  chief  being 
to  place  a  medal  around  his  neck,  which  is  considered  among  his  tribe 
as  a  ^roof  of  his  consideration  abroad.  Each  of  these  medals  was  accom- 
panied by  a  present  of  paint,  garters,  and  cloth  ornaments  of  dress ; 
and  to  this  we  added  a  canister  of  powder,  a  bottle  of  whiskey,  and  a 
few  presents  to  the  Avhole,  which  appeared  to  make  them  perfectly  satis- 


182 


TRAVELS   OF    LEWIS    AND    CLARKE. 


i 


fied.  The  air-gun,  too,  was  firod,  oiul  astonutlicd  them  greatly.  The 
abHcnt  grand  chief  was  an  Ottoway,  named  Wualirushhah,  which  in 
KngliHh  dcgcncratetj  into  Little  Tliicf.  Tlie  two  principal  chieftains 
present  wore  Shangotongo,  or  Big  Horse,  and  Wcthea,  or  Hospitality; 
also  Shosguean,  or  White  Horso,  an  Ottoway ;  the  first  was  an  Ottoway, 
the  second  a  Missouri.  The  incidents  juHt  related  induced  us  to  give 
thin  place  the  name  of  the  Council  Bluff;  the  situation  of  it  is  exceed- 
ingly favorable  for  a  fort  and  trading  factory,  as  the  soil  is  well  calculated 
for  bricks,  and  theiv;  is  an  abundance  of  wood  in  tho  neighborhood,  and 
the  air  being  pure  and  healthy.  The  ceremonies  of  the  council  being 
concluded,  we  set  sail  in  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  at  the  distance  of 
five  miles,  where  wo  found  tho  mosquitoes  very  troublesome." 

The  small-pox  had  stxdly  scourged  the  Indians  of  this  region.  The 
Mahas,  once  a  warlike  and  powerful  people,  had  been  wasted  away  by 
the  disease,  and  in  their  frenzy  they  had  burned  their  villages ;  some 
had  even  put  to  death  their  wives  and  chil<1ren,  probably  to  save  them 
from  the  affliction,  and  all  had  gone  off  to  some  better  country.  The 
messengers  of  the  expedition  called  the  Indians  to  another  council,  and 
they  met  further  up  the  river  on  the  18th  and  19th,  when  the  com- 
manders made  speeches,  and  distributed  medals  and  presents,  as  at 
Council  Bluif.  Next  morning  tho  Indians  left  them ;  they  set  sail,  and 
soon  afterward  come  to  under  some  blufis  on  the  north  side  of  the  river. 
"  Here,"  says  Captain  Clarke,  "  we  had  tho  misfortune  to  lose  one  of 
our  sergeants,  Charles  Floyd.  Ho  was  seized  with  a  bilious  colic,  and  all 
our  care  and  attention  were  ineffectual  to  relievo  him.  He  was  buried 
on  the  top  of  the  bluff  with  the  honors  duo  to  a  brave  soldier,  and  tho 
place  of  his  inteiment  marked  by  a  cedar  post,  on  which  his  name  and 
the  day  of  his  death  were  inscribed.  About  a  mile  beyond  this  place, 
to  which  we  gave  his  name,  is  a  small  river  about  thirty  yards  wide,  on 
the  north,  which  we  called  Floyd's  River,  where  we  encamped." 

On  the  25th  of  August,  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke,  with  ten  men, 
went  to  see  an  object  deemed  extraordinary  among  all  the  neighboring 
Indians.  This  was  a  large  mound  in  the  midst  of  the  plain,  nine  miles 
northward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Wliitestono  River.  "  The  base  of  the 
mound  is  a  regular  parallelogram,  the  longest  side  being  about  three 
hundred  yards,  the  shorter  sixty  or  seventy.  From  tho  longest  side  it 
rises  with  a  steep  ascent  from  the  north  and  south  to  the  height  of  sixty- 
five  or  seventy  feet,  leaving  on  the  top  a  level  plain  of  twelve  feet  in 
breadth  and  ninety  in  length.  The  north  and  south  extremities  are  con- 
nected by  two  oval  borders,  which  serve  as  new  bases,  and  divide  tho 
whole  side  into  three  steep  but  regular  gradations  from  the  plain.  The 
only  thing  characteristic  in  this  hill  is  its  extreme  symmetry,  and  this, 
together  with  its  being  totally  detached  from  the  other  hills,  which  are 
at  the  distance  of  eight  or  nine  miles,  would  induce  the  belief  that  it 
was  artificial ;  but,  as  the  earth,  and  the  loose  pebblia  which  compose  it, 
are  arranged  exactly  like  the  steep  grounds  on  the  borders  of  the  creek, 


KE. 

ncm  greatly.    The 
irushhuh,  which  in 
principal  chieftains 
kca,  or  Hospitality; 
■St  was  an  Ottoway, 
induced  us  to  give 
ition  of  it  is  cxceed- 
oil  is  well  calculated 
neighborhood,  and 
.  the  council  being 
d  at  the  distance  of 
iblesomo." 
)f  this  region.    The 
een  wasted  away  by 
their  villages;  some 
pobably  to  save  them 
setter  country.    The 
another  council,  and 
10th,  when  the  cora- 
and  presents,  as  at 
im ;  they  set  siul,  and 
orth  side  of  the  river, 
brtune  to  lose  one  of 
a  bilious  colic,  and  all 
him.     He  was  buried 
brave  soldier,  and  the 
n  which  his  name  and 
lile  beyond  this  place, 
thirty  yards  wide,  on 
ve  encamped." 
Clarke,  with  ten  men, 
ig  all  the  neighboring 
(f  the  plain,  nine  miles 
er.     "The  base  of  the 
ide  being  about  three 
om  the  longest  side  it 
to  the  height  of  fflxty- 
plain  of  twelve  feet  m 
ath  extremities  are  con- 
bases,  and  divide  the 
s  from  the  plain.    The 
le  symmetry,  and  this, 
le  other  hills,  which  are 
nduce  the  belief  that  it 
bbka  which  compose  it, 
lie  borders  of  the  creels, 


MEETING    WITH    THE    SIOUX. 


188 


wo  concluded  from  this  Rimiiarity  of  texture  that  it  nii^ht  be  natural. 
But  the  IndinnH  have  made  it  a  great  article  of  their  Hui>erHtltion.  It  is 
called  the  mountain  of  Little  People,  or  Little  Spirits,  and  they  believe 
that  it  is  the  abode  of  litlle  devils,  in  the  human  form,  of  about  eighteen 
inches  high,  and  of  remarkably  large  heads ;  thoy  arc  armed  with  sliarp 
arrows,  with  which  they  are  very  skillful,  and  are  olwayson  the  watch  to 
kill  those  who  have  the  hardihood  to  approach  their  residence.  The  tra- 
dition is,  that  many  have  Buffered  from  these  little  evil  spirits,  and  among 
others  three  Maha  Indians  fell  a  sacrifice  to  them  a  few  years  since.  Thi^t 
has  inspired  all  the  neighboring  nations,  Sioux,  Mahos,  and  Ottoways, 
with  such  terror  that  no  consideration  could  temftt  them  to  visit  the  hill. 
We  saw  none  of  these  wckcd  little  spirits,  nor  any  place  for  them,  ex- 
cept some  small  holes  scattered  over  the  top.  We  were  hap)>y  enough 
to  escape  their  vengeance,  though  we  remained  some  time  on  the  mound 
to  enjoy  the  delightful  prospect  of  the  plain,  which  spreads  itself  out  till 
the  eye  rests  upon  the  hills  in  the  north-west  at  a  great  distance,  and 
those  of  the  north-east  still  further  on,  enlivened  by  large  herds  of  buffalo 
feeding  at  a  distance."  As  they  returned  they  gathered  delicious  plums, 
grapes,  and  blue  currants,  on  the  banks  of  the  creek,  and  on  reaching 
their  encampment  set  the  prairies  on  fire,  to  warn  the  Sioux  of  their  ap- 
proach. 

On  the  27th,  they  met  with  a  few  Indians  at  the  mouth  of  the  James 
River,  Avho  informed  them  that  a  large  body  of  Sioux  were  encamped  in 
the  neighborhood.  Sergeant  Pryor  was  accordingly  dispatched  to  them 
with  an  invitation  to  meet  Lewis  and  Clarke  at  a  spot  above  the  river. 
The  latter  encamped  next  day  under  Calumet  Bluff,  on  the  south  side, 
to  await  the  arrival  of  the  Sioux.  The  29th  was  spent  in  repairing  a 
perioque  that  had  been  disabled,  and  other  necessary  occupations,  when 
at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  Sergeant  Pryor  and  his  party  arrived  on 
the  opposite  side,  attended  by  five  chiefs,  and  about  seventy  men  and 
boys.  Some  presents  were  pven,  and  a  conference  appointed  for  the 
morrow.  Sergeant  Pryor  reported  that  on  reaching  their  village,  twelve 
miles  distant,  he  was  met  by  a  party  with  a  buffalo  robe,  on  which  they 
desired  to  carry  their  visitors,  an  honor  which  they  dfclined,  informing 
the  Indians  that  they  were  not  the  ci  ramanders  of  the  boats.  As  a 
great  mark  of  respect  they  were  then  presented  with  a  &t  dog,  already 
cooked,  of  which  they  partook  heartily,  and  found  it  well  flavored.  The 
chiefs  and  warriors  were  received  on  the  30th,  under  a  large  oak-tree, 
when  Captan  Lewis  delivered  a  speech,  with  the  usual  odvice  ond  coun- 
sel for  their  future  conduct.  They  then  acknowledged  the  chiefs  by  medals 
and  presents,  and  smoked  with  them  the  pipe  of  peace,  after  which  th^ 
latter  retired  to  hold  a  council  concerning  the  answer  which  they  were 
to  make  on  the  morrow.  The  young  people  exercised  their  bows  and 
arrows  in  shooting  at  marks  for  beads,  and  in  the  evening  the  whole 
party  danced  until  a  late  hour.  In  the  morning  they  met,  and  the  chiefs 
sat  down  in  a  row,  with  pipes  of  peace,  highly  ornamented,  and  all 


M' 


134 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


' 


pointed  toward  the  seats  of  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke.  Wlicn  the 
latter  were  seated,  the  grand  chief,  Wuuclia,  or  Shake  Hand,  arose  and 
spoke  at  some  length,  approviug  what  had  been  said,  and  promising  to 
follow  the  advice.  He  promised  to  make  peace  between  the  tribes  then 
at  war,  and  ended  by  requesting  material  aid  for  their  people  and  their 
■wives.  Ho  was  followed  by  the  other  chiefs  and  a  warrior,  who,  in 
shorter  speeches,  repeated  or  seconded  his  views.  "  All  the^e  harangues 
concluded  by  describing  the  distress  of  the  nation.  They  begged  us  to 
have  pity  on  them ;  to  send  them  traders ;  that  they  wanted  powder  and 
ball ;  and  seemed  anxious  that  we  should  supply  them  with  some  of  their 
great  father's  milk,  the  name  by  which  they  distinguished  ardent  spirits. 
We  prevailed  on  Mr.  Durion  to  remain  here  and  accompany  as  many  of 
the  Sioux  chiefs  as  he  could  collect  down  to  the  seat  of  government." 
These  Indians  were  the  Yanktous,  a  tribe  of  the  great  nation  of  Sioux. 

They  set  forward  on  the  1st  of  September.  On  the  2d  they  passed 
some  extensive  mounds  and  walls  of  earth,  the  first  remains  of  the  kind 
they  had  an  opportunity  of  cxaniinuig.  They  consisted  of  a  citadel  and 
walls  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  on  the  southern  banks  of  the  river, 
and  a  circular  fortress  nearly  opposite,  on  Bonhomme  Island.  On  the 
morning  of  September  11th  they  saw  a  man  on  horseback  coming  down 
the  river  toward  them,  and  were  much  pleased  to  find  it  was  George 
Shannon,  one  of  their  party,  for  M'hose  safety  they  had  been  very  uneasy. 
Their  two  horses  having  strayed  away  on  the  26th  of  August,  lie  was 
sent  to  search  for  them.  When  he  had  found  them  he  attempted  to  re- 
join the  party,  but  seeing  some  other  tracks,  probably  those  of  Indians, 
he  concluded  that  they  were  aliead  and  had  been  for  sixteen  days  follow- 
ing the  bank  oi'  the  river  before  them.  During  the  first  four  days  he 
had  exhausted  his  bullets,  and  was  then  nearly  starved,  being  obliged  to 
subsist  for  twelve  days  on  a  few  grapes  and  a  rabbit  which  he  had  Idlled 
by  making  use  of  a  hard  piece  of  stick  for  a  ball.  One  of  his  horses 
gave  out  and  was  Icfl  behind ;  the  other  he  kept  as  a  last  resource  for 
food.  Despairing  of  overtaking  the  expedition,  ho  was  returning,  down 
the  river  in  hopes  of  meeting  some  other  boat,  and  was  on  the  point  of 
killing  his  horse,  when  he  was  so  fortunate  as  to  join  his  companions. 

In  another  week  they  reached  the  Great  Bend,  and  dispatched  two 
men  with  their  remaining  horse  across  the  neck  to  hunt  there,  and  await 
their  arrival.  In  the  following  night  they  were  alarmed  by  the  sinking 
of  the  bank  on  which  they  were  encamped.  They  leaped  into  their  boats 
and  pushed  off  in  time  to  save  them,  and  presently  the  whole  gi-ound 
of  their  encampment  sank  also.  Tliey  foiined  a  second  camp  for  the 
rest  of  the  night,  and  at  daylight  proceeded  on  to  the  throat  of  the 
Great  Bend.  A  man  Avhoni  they  had  dispatched  to  step  off  the  distance 
across  the  Bend,  made  it  two  thousand  yards ;  the  circuit  is  thirty  miles. 
On  the  evening  of  the  24tli,  they  encamped  near  a  river  whicJi  they 
called  the  Teton,  from  a  tribe  inhabiting  its  borders.  Here  they  raised 
a  flag-staff  and  an  awning  in  the  morning,  and  with  all  the  party  parading 


IKE. 

Clarke.  Wlicn  the 
ikc  Hand,  arose  and 
1,  and  promising  to 
veen  the  tribes  then 
eir  people  and  their 
a  warrior,  who,  in 
All  theic  harangues 
They  begged  us  to 
wanted  powder  and 
m  with  some  of  their 
uished  ardent  spirits, 
company  as  many  of 
eat  of  government." 
eat  nation  of  Sioux, 
n  the  2d  they  passed 
t  remains  of  the  kind 
listed  of  a  citadel  and 
I  banks  of  the  river, 
nme  Island.  On  the 
rseback  coming  down 

0  find  it  was  George 
bad  been  very  uneasy, 
th  of  August,  he  was 
n  he  attempted  to  re- 
ably  those  of  Indians, 
br  sixteen  days  foUow- 
the  first  four  days  he 
,1-ved,  being  obliged  to 
)it  which  he  had  Idlled 
,11.    One  of  his  horses 
,  as  a  last  resource  for 
10  was  retunnng.down 
id  was  on  the  point  of 
ioin  his  compiuiionf,. 
id,  and  dispatched  two 
3  hunt  there,  and  await 
ilarmed  by  the  sinking 
leaped  into  their  boats 
intly  the  whole  ground 

1  second  camp  for  the 
>n  to  the  throat  of  the 
to  step  off  the  distance 
e  circuit  is  thirty  miles. 
3ar  a  river  whicli  they 
lers.  Here  they  raised 
h  all  the  party  parading 


ASSAULT    OF   THE    TETONS. 


135 


under  arms,  awaited  the  Indians,  who  had  been  summoned  to  a  council. 
The  cliicfs  and  warriors  from  a  camp  two  miles  up  the  river,  met  them, 
the  speeches  were  delivered,  and  they  went  through  tlio  ceremony  of 
acknowledging  the  chiefs  by  giving  them  the  usual  presents,  according 
to  rank.  They  then  invited  them  on  board,  showed  them  the  boat,  air- 
gun,  and  such  cuilosities  as  might  amuse  them,  but  after  giving  thorn  a 
quarter  of  a  glass  of  whiskey,  it  was  with  much  difficulty  that  they  could 
get  rid  of  them.  "  They  at  last  accompanied  Captain  Clarke  on  shore 
in  a  perioque  with  five  men ;  but  it  seems  they  had  formed  a  design  to 
stop  us ;  for  no  sooner  had  the  party  landed  than  three  of  the  Indians 
seized  the  cable  of  the  perioque,  and  one  of  the  soldiers  of  the  chief  put 
his  arm  around  the  mast ;  the  second  chief,  who  affected  intoxication, 
then  said  that  we  should  not  go  on,  that  they  had  not  received  presents 
enough  from  us.  Captain  Clarke  told  liim  that  he  would  not  be  i)re- 
vented  from  going  on ;  that  we  were  not  squaws,  but  warriors ;  that 
we  were  sent  by  our  great  father,  who  could  in  a  moment  exterminate 
them.  The  chief  replied  that  he,  too,  had  warriors,  and  was  proceeding 
to  offer  personal  violence  to  Captain  Clarke,  who  immediately  drew  his 
sword,  and  made  a  signal  to  the  boat  to  prepare  for  action.  The  In- 
dians who  surrounded  him  drew  their  aiTows  from  their  quivers  and 
were  bending  their  bows,  Avhen  the  swivel  in  the  boat  was  instantly 
pointed  toward  them,  and  twelve  of  our  most  determined  men  jumped 
into  the  perioque,  and  joined  Captain  Clarke.  This  movement  made 
an  impression  on  them,  for  the  grand  chief  ordered  the  young  men  away 
from  the  perioque,  and  they  withdrew  and  held  a  short  council  with  the 
warriors.  Behig  unwilling  to  irritate  them,  Captain  Clarke  then  went 
forward  and  offered  his  hand  to  the  first  and  second  chiefs,  who  refused 
to  take  it.  He  then  turned  from  them  and  got  into  the  perioque,  but 
had  not  gone  more  than  ten  paces  when  both  the  chiefs  and  two  of  the 
warriors  waded  in  after  him,  and  he  brought  them  on  board.  We  then 
proceeded  on  for  a  mile  and  anchored  off  a  willow  island,  which  from 
the  circumstances  that  had  just  occurred,  we  called  Bad-humored 
Island."  Having  thus  inspired  the  Indians  with  fear,  they  desired  to 
cultivate  their  acquaintance,  and  accordingly  on  the  next  day  they 
drew  up  to  the  shore  where  a  crowd  of  men,  women,  and  children 
were  waiting  to  receive  them.  Captain  Lewis  went  on  shore  and  re- 
mained several  hours,  and  finding  their  disposition  friendly,  resolved 
to  remain  during  the  night,  and  attend  a  dance  which  the  Indians 
were  preparing  for  them.  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke  were  received 
on  landing  by  ton  well-dressed  young  men,  who  took  them  up  on  a 
robe  highly  decorated,  and  carried  them  to  the  council-house  where 
they  were  placed  on  a  dressed  buffalo  skin  by  the  side  of  the  grand 
chief.  He  was  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  about  seventy  men,  before 
whom  were  placed  the  Spanish  and  American  flags,  and  the  pipe  of 
peace.  A  large  fire,  at  which  they  were  cooking  provisions,  Avas  near, 
and  a  quantity  of  buffalo  moat,  as  a  present.    When  they  were  seated, 


i 


I 


!■ 


136 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


an  old  man  spoke,  approving  what  the  white  men  had  done  and  im- 
ploring pity  on  their  own  unfortunate  situation.    Lewis  and  Clarke  re- 
plied with  assurances  of  protection ;   then  the  great  chief  arose  and 
delivered  a  harangue,  after  which  with  great  solemnity  he  took  some  of 
the  most  deUcate  parts  of  the  dog,  which  was  cooked  for  the  .estival, 
and  held  it  to  the  flag  by  way  of  sacrifice.     This  done,  he  held  up 
the  pipe  of  peace,  first  pointing  it  upward  then  to  the  four  quarters  of 
the  globe,  and  then  to  the  earth,  made  a  short  speech,  lighted  the  pipe, 
and  presented  it  to  the   guests.    They  ate  and  smoked  until  dark, 
when  every  thing  was  cleared  away  for  the  dance  a  large  fire  being 
made  in  the  center,  to  give  light  and  warmth  to  the  ball-room.    The 
musicians  played  upon  a  sort  of  tambourine  and  made  a  jmghng  noiso 
with  a  long  stick  to  which  the  hoofe  of  deer  and  goats  were  hung; 
the  third  instrument  was  a  small  skin  bag  with  pebbles  m  it:  these, 
with  a  few  singers,  made  up  the  band.  The  women  came  forward  highly 
decorated,  some  with  poles  bearing  the  scalps  of  their  enemies,  others 
with  guns,  spears,  and  other  trophies  taken  in  war  by  their  husbands 
brothers,  or  connections.    They  danced  toward  each  other  till  they  met 
in  the  center,  when  the  rattles  were  shaken,  and  all  shouted  and  re- 
turned to  their  places.    In  the  pauses  of  the  dance  a  man  of  the  com- 
pany would  come  forward  and  recite,  in  a  low,  guttural  tone,  some 
litt'e  story  or  incident,  either  wariike  or  ludicrous.    This  was  taken  up 
by  the  orchestra  and  dancers,  who  repeated  it  m  a  higher  stram  and 
danced   to  it.     Sometimes  the  women  raised  their  voices,  when  the 
orchestra  ceased,  and  made  a  music  less  intolerable  than  the  men.   The 
dances  of  the  men,  always  separate  from  the  women,  were  conducted 
in  ncariy  the  same  way.    The  harmony  of  the  entertainment  came  near 
being  disturbed  by  one  of  the  musicians,  who,  thinking  he   had  not 
received  a  duo  share  of  the  tobacco  distributed  during  the  evening, 
put  himself  into  a  passion,  broke  one  of  the  drums,  threw  two  of  them 
into  the  fire,  and  left  the  band.     The  drums  were  taken  out  of  the 
fire-  a  buflfalo  robe  held  in  one  hand  and  beaten  with  the  other,  by 
several  of  the  company,  suppUed  the  place  of  the  lost  tambourine, 
and  no  notice  was  taken  of  the  oflfensive  conduct  of  the  man     Ihe 
white  guests  retired  at  twelve  o'clock,  accompamed  by  four  chiefs,  two 
of  Avhom  spent  the  night  on  board.  ,    , ., ,  t. 

While  on  shore  they  saw  fifty  prisoners,  women  and  children,  who 
had  been  taken  in  a  late  battle  with  the  Mahas,  on  which  occasion  the 
Sioux  had  killed  seventy-five  men.  They  gave  them  a  variety  of  small 
articles  and  interceded  for  them  with  the  chiefs,  who  promised  to 
restore  them  and  Uve  in  peace  with  the  Mahas.  The  tnbe  they  ^w  this 
dav  were  a  part  of  the  great  Sioux  nation,  known  by  the  name  of  Teton 
Okandandaa.  While  with  them,  the  travelers  witnessed  a  quarrel  b^ 
tween  two  squaws,  which  was  suddenly  stopped  by  the  appearance  of 
a  man,  at  whose  approach  every  one  seemed  terrified  and  ran  away. 
He  took  the  squaws  and  without  any  ceremony  whipped  them  severely. 


X.WH«»aW.    4MKUMB 


IKE. 

had  done,  and  im- 

wis  and  Clarke  re- 

|at  chief  arose  and 

ty  he  took  some  of 

ed  for  the  festival, 

done,  he  held  up 

|he  four  quarters  of 

h,  lighted  the  pipe, 

smoked  until  dark, 

,  a  large  fire  being 

he  ball-room.    The 

ade  a  jingling  noise 

goats  were  hung; 

ebbles  in  it:  these, 

lamc  forward  highly 

icir  enemies,  others 

by  their  husbands, 

I  other  till  they  met 

all  shouted  and  re- 

a  man  of  the  com- 

guttural  tone,  some 

This  was  taken  up 

a  higher  strain  and 

eir  voices,  when  the 

i  than  the  men.   The 

nen,  were  conducted 

irtainment  came  near 

binking  he   had  not 

during  the  evenbg, 

,  threw  two  of  them 

re  taken  out  of  tho 

L  with  the  other,  by 

the  lost  tambourine, 

t  of  the  man.    The 

i  by  four  chiefs,  two 

en  and  children,  who 
n  which  occasion  the 
3m  a  variety  of  small 
8,  who  promised  to 
le  tribe  they  saw  this 
>y  the  name  of  Teton 
;ne8scd  a  quarrel  be- 
jy  the  appearance  of 
ified  and  ran  away, 
ipped  them  severely. 


A   NEORO   CURIOSITY. 


187 


This  was  an  officer  whose  duty  was  to  keep  the  peace.  The  whole  in- 
terior police  of  the  village  was  confided  to  two  or  three  such  officers, 
who  were  named  by  the  chie^  and  remained  in  power  a  few  days,  until 
a  successor  was  appointed.  They  were  always  on  tho  watch  to  keep 
tranquillity  during  the  day,  and  guard  the  camp  in  the  night.  Their 
power,  though  of  short  duration,  was  supreme,  and  in  the  suppression  of 
any  riot  no  resistance  was  suffered.  In  general  they  accompanied  the 
person  of  the  chie^  and  when  ordered  to  any  duty,  however  dangerous, 
made  it  a  point  of  honor  rather  to  die  than  refuse  obedience.  It  was 
thus  when  they  attempted  to  stop  Lewis  and  Clarke  on  the  day  before. 
The  chief  having  ordered  one  of  these  men  to  take  possession  of  the 
boat,  he  immediately  put  his  arms  around  the  mast,  and  no  force  ex- 
cept the  command  of  the  chief  would  have  induced  him  to  release 
his  hold. 

They  spent  the  next  day  with  other  Indians  of  the  nation,  who  enter- 
tained them  m  a  similar  manner ;  but  when  they  were  preparing  to  set 
out,  some  difficulties  arose  from  a  misunderstanding  with  the  people, 
either  from  jealousy  or  the  hope  of  obtaining  presents.  By  decided 
measures  and  the  distribution  of  tobacco,  the  natives  were  appeased, 
and  the  expedition  set  forward  on  the  28th.  As  they  sailed  up  the  river 
they  were  frequently  accosted  by  Indians,  who  asked  them  to  land,  and 
begged  for  tobacco  and  other  presents,  but  they  had  no  further  inter- 
course Avith  them  imtil  they  came  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Ricaras,  on  the 
8th  of  October.  Hero  they  halted  a  few  days,  visited  the  Indians  at 
their  villages,  and  received  them  in  council.  The  usual  ceremonies  were 
here  performed,  speeches  made,  chiefs  acknowledged  by  distinguished 
presents,  and  curiosities  exhibited  to  astonish  the  natives.  "  The  object 
that  appeared  to  astonish  the  Indians  most,  was  Captain  Clarke's  servant, 
Tork,  a  remarkably  stout,  strong  negro.  They  had  never  seen  a  being 
of  that  color,  and  therefore  flocked  around  him  to  examine  the  extra- 
ordinary monster.  By  way  of  amusement,  he  told  them  that  he  had 
once  been  a  wild  animal,  and  had  been  caught  and  tamed  by  his  master ; 
and  to  convince  them,  showeu  them  feats  of  strength,  which,  added  to 
his  looks,  made  him  more  terrible  than  we  wished  him  to  be."  *'  On 
our  side,"  says  Captain  Clarke,  "  we  were  gratified  at  discovering  that 
these  Ricaras  made  use  of  no  spirituous  liquors  of  any  kind ;  the  examplu 
of  the  traders  who  bring  it  to  them,  so  far  from  tempting,  has,  in  fact, 
disgusted  them.  Supposing  that  it  was  as  agreeable  to  them  as  to  the 
other  Indians,  we  had  at  first  offered  them  whiskey,  but  they  refused  it 
with  this  sensible  remark,  that  they  were  surprised  that  their  father 
should  present  to  them  a  liquor  which  would  make  them  fools." 

On  the  13th  they  continued  their  journey.  During  the  day  they 
passed  a  stream  to  which  tliey  gave  the  name  of  Stone  Idol  Creek,  for 
they  learned  that  a  few  miles  back  from  the  Missouri  there  were  two 
stones  resembling  human  figures,  and  a  third  like  a  dog ;  all  which  were 
objects  of  great  veneration  among  the  Ricaras.     "  Their  history  would 


I 


%'■ 


188 


TRAVELS   OF    LEWIS    AND    CLARKE. 


adorn  the '  Metamorphoses'  of  Ovid.  A  young  man  was  deeply  enamored 
with  a  ffirl  whose  parents  refused  their  consent  to  the  marriage.    The 
youtli  went  out  into  the  fields  to  mourn  his  misfortunes ;  a  sympathy 
of  feeling  led  the  lady  to  the  same  spot;  and  the  faiUiful  dog  would 
not  cease  to  follow  his  master.    After  wandering  together  and  havmg 
nothing  but  grapes  to  subsist  on,  they  were  at  last  converted  mto  stone, 
which,  begmnmg  at  the  feet,  gradually  invaded  the  nobler  parts  leaving 
nothing  unchanged  but  a  bunch  of  grapes  which  the  female  holds  m 
her  hands  unto  this  day."    Tliese  stones  were  sacred  objects  to  the 
llicaras,  who  made  some  propitiatory  offering  Avhcnever  they  passed  them. 
They  saw  anothcjr  object  of  Ricara  superstition  on  the  21st-a  large 
oak-tree,  standing  alone  on  the  open  prairie,  which,  having  withstood 
fires  that  had  consumed  every  thing  around,  was  possessed  of  extraor- 
dinary powers  in  the  belief  of  the  Indians.     One  of  their  ceremonies 
was  to  make  a  hole  in  the  skin  of  the  neck,  through  which  a  string  was 
passed,  and  the  other  end  tied  to  the  body  of  the  tree ;  and  after  re- 
maining in  this  way  for  some  time,  they  fancied  they  became  braver. 
The  Ricara  chief  told  them  of  a  large  rock  in  the  neighborhood,  on  the 
Chisshetaw,  which  was  held  in  great  veneration,  and  consulted  by  parties 
for  their  o>™  or  their  nation's  destinies ;  these  they  probably  found  m 
Bome  sort  of  figures  or  paintings  with  which  it  was  covered. 

■WINTER    AMONG  THE    MANDANS. 

The  party  now  approached  the  region  of  the  Mandans  p^scd  many 
of  their  deserted  villages,  and  on  the  24th  met  one  of  their  grand 
chiefs,  who  was  on  a  hunting  excursion.    He  met  his  enemy,  the  Ricara 
chief,  who  had  accompanied  the  expedition,  with  great  ceremony  and 
apparent  cordiality,  and  smoked  with  him.    Tlie  latter  afterward  went 
Si  the  Mandans  to  their  camp.    On  the  26th  they  encamped  near  the 
first  village  of  the  Mandans,  who  came  down  in  crowds  to  sec  them  aa 
soon  as  they  landed.    Among  the  visitors  was  the  son  of  the  grand 
chief,  who  had  his  two  little  fingers  cut  off  at  the  second  joints.    On 
inquirmg  into  this  accident,  they  found  it  was  customary  to  express  giiet 
at  the  death  of  relations  by  some  corporeal  suffering,  and  that  the  usual 
mode  was  to  lose  two  joints  of  the  little  fingers,  or  sometimes  the  other 
fingers.     On  the  two  following  days  they  visited  several  villages,  and 
went  up  the  river  a  short  distance  in  search  of  a  convenient  spot  for  a 
winter  fort,  but  the  timber  was  too  scarce  and  small  for  their  purpose. 
The  council  assembled  on  the  29th.    A  number  of  chiefs  of  the  Man- 
dans, the  Minnetarees,  and  the  Ahnahaways,  were  present.    The  forces 
of  the  expedition  were  all  paraded,  and  the  council  opened  by  a  discharge 
from  the  swivel  of  the  boat.    The  Indians  were  addressed,  as  heretofore, 
with  advice  intermingled  with  assurances  of  friendship  and  trade,  and 
toward  the  end  of  the  speech  the  subject  of  the  Ricara  chief  was  intro- 


KE. 

deeply  enamored 

e  marriage.    The 

mea ;  a  sympathy 

liithful  dog  would 

ether  and  having 

verted  into  stone, 

jler  parts,  leaving 

e  female  holds  iu 

L'd  objects  to  the 

they  passed  them. 

the  21st — a  large 

having  withstood 

sessed  of  extraor- 

[■  their  ceremonies 

which  a  string  was 

ree ;  and  after  re- 

oy  became  braver. 

ghborhood,  on  the 

onsulted  by  parties 

probably  found  iu 

(vered. 


lNS. 

ndans,  passed  many 
one  of  their  grand 
}  enemy,  the  Kicara 
freat  ceremony  and 
iter  afterward  went 
encamped  near  the 
^ds  to  see  them  as 
e  son  of  the  grand 
second  joints.  On 
lary  to  express  grief 
,  and  that  the  usual 
sometimes  the  other 
several  villages,  and 
nvenient  spot  for  a 
1  for  their  purpose, 
chiefs  of  the  Man- 
)resent.  Tlie  forces 
)ened  by  a  discharge 
essed,  as  heretofore, 
ship  and  trade,  and 
ara  chief  was  intro- 


THBY  ENCAMP  FOE  THE  WINTER. 


139 


duced,  with  whom  they  were  recommended  to  make  a  firm  peace.  To 
this  they  seemed  well  disposed,  and  smoked  with  him  amicably.  Pres- 
ents were  then  distributed  with  great  ceremony :  one  chief  of  each  town 
was  acknowledged  by  a  gift  of  a  flag,  a  medal  with  the  likeness  of  the 
President,  a  uniform  coat,  hat,  and  feather ;  to  the  second  chiefs  they 
gave  a  medal  representing  some  domestic  animals  and  a  loom ;  to  the 
third  chiefs,  medals  with  the  unpressions  of  a  farmer  sowing  grain.  A 
variety  of  other  presents  were  distributed,  but  none  seemed  to  give 
more  satisfaction  than  an  iron  corn-mill  which  they  gave  to  the  Mundans. 
The  council  was  concluded  by  a  shot  from  the  swivel,  after  which  the  air- 
gun  was  fired  for  their  amusement.  In  the  evening  the  prairie  took  fire, 
either  by  accident  or  design,  and  burned  with  great  fury,  the  whole  plain 
beuig  enveloped  in  flames.  So  rapid  was  its  progress,  that  a  man  and 
woman  were  burned  to  death  before  they  could  reach  a  place  of  safety, 
and  several  others  were  badly  injured  or  narrowly  escaped  destruction. 
A  half-breed  boy  escaped  unhurt  in  the  midst  of  the  flames,  and  his 
safety  was  ascribed  to  the  great  medicine  spirit,  who  had  preserved  him 
on  account  of  his  being  white.  But  a  much  more  natural  cause  was  the 
prc-^ence  of  mind  of  his  mother,  who,  seeing  no  hopes  of  carrying  ofl'her 
son,  threw  him  on  the  ground,  covered  him  with  the  fresh  hide  of  a 
buflalo,  and  then  escaped  herself  from  the  flames.  As  soon  as  the  fire 
had  passed  she  returned  and  found  him  imtouched,  the  skin  having  pre- 
vented the  flame  from  reaching  the  grass  on  which  he  lay. 

On  the  31st  Captain  Clarke  had  an  interview  with  the  grand  chief  of 
the  Mandans,  who  expressed  his  faith  in  what  had  been  said,  hoped  they 
would  enjoy  peace,  and  promised  to  send  his  second  cliief  with  some 
warriors  to  the  Ricaras  with  their  chie^  to  smoke  with  that  nation.  He 
added  that  he  would  go  and  see  his  great  father,  the  President.  The 
chiefs  of  the  other  villages  manifested  the  same  amicable  disposition,  and 
the  Ricaree  chieftain  set  out  on  his  retu-n  with  a  Mandan  chief  and  sev- 
eral Minnetaree  and  Mandan  warriors. 

Having  found  a  suitable  wintering-place  three  miles  below,  they  en- 
camped there,  and  on  the  3d  of  November  they  began  the  building  of 
their  cabins.  Some  Frenchmen  who  were  here  built  a  perioque  to  de- 
scend to  St.  Louis,  and  Lewis  and  Clarke  engaged  the  services  of  a  Cana- 
dian Frenchman,  who  had  been  with  the  Cbayenne  Indians  on  the  Black 
River.  Mr.  Jessaume,  their  interpreter,  also  came  down  with  his  squaw 
and  children  to  live  at  the  camp.  In  the  evening  they  received  a  visit 
from  Kagohami,  or  Little  Raven,  one  of  the  chiefs  who  attended  the 
council,  whose  wife  accompanied  him,  bringing  about  sixty  weight  of 
dried  meat,  a  robe,  and  a  pot  of  meal.  Other  Indians  visited  them,  and 
frequently  brought  them  presents,  during  the  building  of  their  cabins. 
These  were  completed  and  picketed  by  the  20th,  when  they  moved  into 
them,  and  named  the  place  Fort  Mandan.  There  were  five  villages  in 
the  neighborhood,  the  residence  of  three  distinct  nations,  who  had  been 
at  the  council.    Captain  Lewis  made  an  excursion  to  them  in  a  few  days, 


y' 


1^ 


m  in 


140 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


and  found  them  all  well  disposed  and  very  kind,  except  a  principal  chief 
of  one  of  the  upper  villages,  named  Mahpahpaparapassatoo,  or  Homed 
Weasel,  who  made  use  of  the  civilized  indecorum  of  refusing  to  be  seen, 
and  when  Captain  Lewis  called  he  was  told  the  chief  was  not  at  home. 

They  passed  the  winter  very  comfortably  at  the  fort,  finding  sufficient 
employment  in  hunting,  visiting,  and  cultivating  the  friendship  of  the 
Indians ;  although  in  these  excursions  they  frequently  suffered  from  the 
cold,  which  was  sometimes  very  intense.  On  the  10th  of  December  the 
hunters  saw  large  herds  of  buffalo  crossing  the  river  on  the  ice.  The 
mercury  stood  at  11°  below  zero,  and  the  next  morning  it  was  21°  belo  v. 
When  the  party  returned  in  the  evening,  many  of  them  were  frostbitten. 
On  the  12th  the  thermometer  indicated  38°  below  zero,  and  at  sunrise 
on  the  17th  it  was  45°  below. 

On  Christmas  day  the  party  fired  three  platoons  before  daj  ,  They 
had  told  the  Indians  not  to  visit  them,  as  it  was  one  of  their  grei  t  medi- 
cine days;  so  the  men  remained  at  home  and  amused  themselves  in 
various  ways,  particularly  in  dancing,  in  which  they  took  great  pleasure. 
The  American  flag  was  hobted  for  the  first  time  in  the  fort ;  the  best 
provisions  they  had  were  brought  out,  and  this,  with  a  little  brandy, 
enabled  them  to  pass  the  day  in  great  festivity. 

On  the  morning  of  the  new  year,  1805,  the  men  were  permitted  to 
go  up  with  their  music  to  the  first  village,  where  they  delighted  the 
whole  tribe  with  their  dances,  particularly  with  the  movements  of  one 
of  the  Frenchmen,  who  danced  on  his  head.  In  return  they  presented 
the  dancers  with  several  buffalo  robes  and  quantities  of  com.  This  at- 
tention  was  shown  to  the  village  because  they  had  conceived  the  whites 
to  be  wanting  in  regard  for  them,  and  had  begun  to  circulate  invidious 
comparisons  between  them  and  the  northern  traders ;  all  these,  however, 
they  declared  to  Captiun  Clarke,  who  visited  them  in  the  course  of  the 
morning,  were  made  in  jest.  The  Indians  likewise  performed  various 
dances  at  their  villages  during  the  winter. 

On  the  9th  of  January,  the  mercury  at  21°  below  zero,  Captiun 
Clarke,  with  three  or  four  men,  accompanied  Kagohami  and  a  party  of 
Indians  to  hunt.  They  were  incommoded  by  snow  and  high  winds,  and 
several  of  the  Indians  came  back  nearly  frozen.  Next  moming  the  mer- 
cury stood  at  40°  below  zero,  and  they  were  uneasy  for  one  of  the  men, 
who  was  still  missing.  He  came  back,  however,  as  they  were  sending 
out  a  party  in  search  of  him,  having  made  a  fire  and  kept  himself  warm 
through  the  night.  An  Indian  boy  came  in  soon  after.  He  had  slept 
in  the  snow  with  no  covering  but  his  moccasins  and  leggings,  and  a  but 
felo  robe,  and  had  his  feet  frozen.  A  missing  Indian  also  returned,  and 
although  his  dress  was  thin,  and  he  had  slept  on  the  snow  without  fire, 
he  had  not  suffered  the  slightest  inconvenience.  They  often  had  occa- 
sion to  observe  how  well  the  Indians  endured  the  rigors  of  the  season. 
A  more  pleasing  reflection  occurred  at  seeing  the  warm  interest  which 
the  situation  of  these  two  persons  had  excited  in  the  village.    The  boy 


IKE. 

t  a  principal  chief 

itoo,  or  Horned 

efusing  to  be  seen, 

woa  not  at  home. 

,  finding  sufficient 

friendship  of  the 

y  suffered  from  the 

h  of  December  the 

ir  on  the  ice.    The 

igitwas21°belov. 

im  were  frostbitten. 

ssero,  and  at  sunrise 

before  daj ,  They 
of  their  greit  medi- 
luscd  themselves  in 
took  great  pleasure. 
w  the  fort ;  the  best 
ith  a  little  brandy, 

1  were  permitted  to 
i  they  delighted  the 
B  movements  of  one 
etum  they  presented 
es  of  com.  This  at- 
conceived  the  whites 
to  circulate  invidious 
s ;  all  these,  however, 
in  the  course  of  the 
se  performed  various 

below  zero,  Caption 
>harai  and  a  party  of 
'  and  high  winds,  and 
ext  morning  the  mer- 
Y  for  one  of  the  men, 
IS  they  were  sending 
d  kept  himself  warm 
after.  He  had  slept 
d  leggings,  and  a  buf- 
m  also  returned,  and 
he  snow  without  fire, 
rhey  often  had  occa- 
rigors  of  the  season, 
warm  interest  which 
the  village.    The  boy 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE. 


141 


had  been  a  prisoner  and  adopted  from  charity,  yet  the  father's  distress 
proved  that  he  felt  for  him  the  tenderest  affection.  The  man  was  a  per- 
son of  no  distinction,  yet  the  whole  village  was  full  of  anxiety  for  his 
safety. 

Toward  the  middle  of  January  nearly  one  half  of  the  Mandan  nation 
passed  down  the  river  to  hunt  for  several  days.  In  these  excursions, 
men,  women,  and  children,  with  their  dogs,  all  leave  the  village  together, 
and  after  finding  a  spot  convenient  to  the  game,  fix  their  tents.  All  the 
iamily  bear  their  part  in  the  labor,  and  the  game  is  eqiuUy  divided 
among  the  families  of  the  tribe.  On  the  9th  of  3Iarch  the  grand  chief 
of  the  Minnetarees,  who  was  absent  on  their  arrival,  visited  them.  He 
was  received  with  great  attention,  two  guns  were  fired  in  honor  of  his 
arrival,  the  curiosities  were  shown  to  him,  and  presents  bestowed  upon 
him.  In  the  course  of  conversation  he  observed  that  some  foolish 
young  men  of  his  nation  had  told  him  there  M-as  a  person  among  them 
quite  black,  and  he  wished  to  know  if  it  could  be  true.  They  assured 
him  that  it  was  true,  and  sent  for  York.  The  chief  was  much  surprised 
at  his  appearance  ;  he  examined  him  closely,  spitting  on  his  finger  and 
rubbing  the  skin  in  order  to  wasli  off  the  paint ;  nor  was  it  until  the 
negro  uncovered  his  head  and  showed  his  hair,  that  the  chief  could  be 
persuaded  he  was  not  a  painted  white  man. 

On  the  approach  of  spring,  Lewis  and  Clarke  began  to  make  prepara- 
tions for  their  departure.  Canoes  were  built  and  hauled  down  to  the 
river,  and  the  boats  were  all  finally  launched  on  the  1st  of  April.  While 
they  were  loading  their  boats  on  the  6th,  they  were  visited  by  a  number 
of  Mandans.  They  brought  information  of  a  party  of  Kiearas  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river.  An  interpreter  was  sent  to  learn  the  reason  of 
their  coming;  he  returned  next  morning  with  a  Kicara  chief,  who 
brought  a  letter  from  Mr.  Tabeau,  stating  the  wish  of  the  grand  chief 
of  the  Ricaras  to  visit  the  President,  and  requesting  permission  for  him- 
self and  four  men  to  join  the  returning  boat  of  the  expedition.  This 
being  granted,  he  said  he  was  sent  with  ten  warriors  by  his  nation,  to 
arrange  their  settling  near  the  Mandans  and  Minnetarees,  whom  they 
wished  to  join ;  that  he  considered  all  the  neighboring  nations  fi-iendly, 
except  the  Sioux,  whose  persecution  they  could  no  longer  withstand,  and 
whom  they  hoped  to  repel  by  uniting  with  the  tribes  in  this  quarter. 
He  added,  that  the  Ricaras  intended  to  live  in  peace  with  all  nations, 
and  requested  Lewis  and  Clarke  to  speak  in  their  favor  with  the  Assini- 
boin  Indians.  This  they  promised,  and  assured  him  of  the  President's 
protection.  They  then  gave  him  a  medal,  a  certificate,  and  some  pres- 
ents, with  which  be  deputed  for  the  Mandan  village,  well  satisfied  with 
his  reception. 


t 


9- 


,v) »» 


i^ 


TRAVELS    OF    LEWIS    AND    CLARKE. 


JOURNEY  ACROSS   THE   ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 

1  Living  made  all  their  arrangements,  they  left  the  fort  on  the  after- 
noon  of  April  7th.    The  party  now  consisted  of  tlurty-two  persons. 
Besides  Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke,  there  were  Sergeants  John  Ordway, 
Nathaniel  Pryor,  and  Patrick  Gass.    The  interpreters  were  George 
DrowTor  and  Toussaint  Chaboneau.    The  wife  of  Chaboneau  also  ac- 
cmpanied  them  .vith  her  young  child,  and  they  hoped  she  would  be  use- 
fi.l  as  an  interi^rctcr  among  the  Snake  Indians.    She  was  herself  one  of 
that  tribe,  but  had  been  taken  in  war  by  the  Minnetarees,  by  whom  she 
was  sold  as  a  slave  to  Chaboneau,  who  brought  her  up  and  afterward 
married  her.     One  of  the  Mandans  like>nse  embarked  with  them,  in 
order  to  go  to  the  Snake  Indians  and  obtain  a  peace  with  them  lor  his 
countrymen.    All  this  party,  with  the  baggage,  was  stowod  in  six  sm^ 
canoes  and  two  large  perioques.     At  the  same  time  that  they  took  their 
departure,  their  barge,  manned  with  seven  soldiers,  two  Frenchmen,  and 
Mr.  Gravelines  as  pilot,  sailed  for  the  United  States,  loaded  with  their 
presents  and  dispatches.  u    u  a 

On  the  9th  they  cane  to  a  hunting  party  of  Minnetarees,  who  had 
prepared  a  park  or  inclosure,  and  were  waiting  the  return  of  the  ante- 
lope    In  the  region  they  passed  through  on  the  two  foUowing  days  they 
saw  on  the  surface  of  the  earth  large  quantities  of  a  white  substanaa 
which  tasted  like  a  mixture  of  common  salt  with  Glauber  salts.    It  ap- 
peared on  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  even  on  the  banks  of  the  nvers,  as 
well  as  on  the  sand  bars.    Many  of  the  streams  which  came  from  the 
foot  of  the  hills  were  so  strongly  impregnated  with  this  substance 
that  the  water  had  an  unpleasant  taste  and  a  purgative  effect.    On  the 
26th  of  April,  at  noon,  they  encamped  at  the  junction  of  the  Missouri 
and  Yellowstone  Rivers.    As  the  river  was  crooked  and  the  wind  adverse 
Captain  Lewis  had  left  the  boats  the  day  before  and  proceeded  overland 
to  find  the  Yellowstone  and  make  chc  necessary  observations,  sd  as  to 
be  enabled  to  continue  the  expedition  without  delay.    He  pursued  his 
route  along  the  foot  of  the  hills,  which  ho  ascended  for  the  distance  of 
eight  miles.    From  these  the  wide  plains,  watered  by  the  Missouri  and 
the  Yellowstone,  spread  themselves  before  the  eye,  occasionaUy  vaned 
with  the  wood  of  the  banks,  enlivened  by  the  irregular  windings  of  the 
two  rivers,  and  animated  by  vast  herds  of  buffalo,  deer,  elk,  and  ant^ 
lope     Above  the  Yellowstone  the  hUls  were  higher  .and  rougher,  and 
the  wild  animals  more  numerous.    A  small  river  which  they  passed  on 
the  3d  of  May  they  called  Porcupine  River,  from  the  unusual  number  of 
porcupines  near  it.    A  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  this  they  passed  another 
on  the  opposite  side,  to  which,  on  account  of  its  distance  ft-om  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri,  they  gave  the  name  of  Two-thousand-mile  creek.     On 
the  5th  Captain  Clarke  and  a  hunter  met  the  largest  brown  bear  they 
hud  ever  seen.    When  they  fired  he  did  not  attempt  to  attack,  but  fled 


RKE. 


JNTAlNS. 

fort  on  tho  after- 
thirty-two  persons, 
eants  John  Ordway, 
cters  were  George 
Chaboneau  also  ac- 
d  she  would  bo  use- 
was  herself  one  of 
arees,  by  whom  she 
up  and  afterward 
xked  with  them,  in 
e  with  them  for  his 
i  8tow«^d  in  six  small 
that  they  took  their 
two  Frenchmen,  and 


! 


es,  loaded  with  their 

[innetarecs,  who  had 
return  of  the  ante- 

0  following  days  they 
of  a  white  substanau 
Slauber  salts.  It  ap- 
lanks  of  the  rivers,  as 
.fhich  came  from  the 

with  this  substance 
ativc  effect.  On  the 
stion  of  tho  Missouri 

and  the  wind  adverse 

1  proceeded  over  land 
abservations,  sd  as  to 
lay.  He  pursued  his 
il  for  the  distance  of 
I  by  the  Missouri  and 
re,  occasionally  varied 
gular  windings  of  the 
),  deer,  elk,  and  ante- 
hcr  and  rougher,  and 
ivhich  they  passed  on 
he  unusual  number  of 
is  they  passed  another 
tance  fi-om  the  mouth 
isand-mile  creek.  On 
fcst  brown  bear  they 
ipt  to  attack,  but  fled 


ADVENTURE    WITH    A    BEAR. 


148 


with  a  tremendous  roar,  and  such  was  his  tenacity  of  llfo  that,  although 
he  had  five  balls  through  his  lungs,  and  five  other  wounds,  he  swam 
more  than  half  across  tho  river  to  a  sand-bar,  and  survived  twenty  min- 
utes. He  weighed  between  five  and  six  hundred  pounds,  and  measured 
eight  feet  seven  inches  from  the  nose  to  the  extremity  of  the  hind  feet. 
On  the  14th  six  hunters  attacked  another  which  they  discovered  lying  in 
the  open  grounds,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  river.  Coming  uiipor- 
ccived  upon  him,  four  of  them  fired,  and  each  lodged  a  bull  in  his  body. 
The  furious  animal  sprang  up  and  ran  open-mouthed  upon  them.  As  he 
approached,  the  two  hunters,  who  had  reserved  fire,  gave  him  two 
wounds,  one  of  which,  breaking  his  shoulder,  retarded  him  a  moment, 
but  before  they  could  reload,  he  was  so  near  that  they  were  obliged  to 
run  to  the  river.  Two  jumped  into  the  canoe,  the  other  four  separated, 
and  concealing  themselves  in  the  willows,  fired  as  fast  as  each  could  re- 
load. They  struck  him  leveral  times,  but  instead  of  weakening  the 
monster,  each  shot  seeme  1  only  to  direct  him  to  the  himtcr,  till  at  last 
he  pursued  two  of  them  so  closely  that  they  threw  aside  their  guns  and 
pouches,  and  jumped  down  a  perpendicular  bank  of  twenty  feet  into  the 
river.  The  bear  sprang  after  them,  and  was  within  two  feet  of  the  hind- 
most M'hcn  one  of  the  hunters  on  shore  shot  him  in  tho  head  and  finally 
killed  him.  They  dragged  him  to  the  shore,  and  found  that  eight  balls 
had  passed  through  him  in  different  directions.  The  bear  being  old,  they 
took  the  skin  only,  and  rejoined  the  party  at  the  camp,  who  had  mean- 
while been  terrified  by  an  accident  of  a  different  kind.  This  was  tho 
narrow  escape  of  a  canoe  containing  all  their  papers,  instruments,  medi- 
cine, and  almost  every  other  article  indispensable  to  the  success  of  the 
enterprise.  The  canoe  being  under  sail,  was  struck  by  a  sudden  squall 
of  wind  which  turned  her  considerably.  The  man  at  the  helm,  instead 
of  putting  her  before  the  wind,  luffed  her  up  into  it.  The  wind  was  so 
high  that  it  forced  the  brace  of  the  squaresail  out  of  tho  hand  of  the 
man  who  was  attending  it,  and  instantly  upset  tho  canoe,  which  would 
have  been  turned  bottom  upward  but  for  tho  resistance  of  the  awning. 
Such  was  the  confusion  on  board,  and  the  waves  ran  so  high,  that  it  was 
half  a  minute  before  she  righted,  and  then  nearly  full  of  water ;  but  by 
bailing  she  was  kept  from  sinking  until  they  rowed  ashore.  Here  they 
remained  until  the  articles  were  dried  and  repacked,  and  again  embarked 
on  the  afternoon  of  the  16th. 

On  Sunday,  the  26th  of  May,  after  ascending  the  highest  summits  of 
the  hills  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  "  Captain  Lewis  first  caught  a 
distant  view  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  object  of  all  our  hopes,  and 
the  reward  of  all  our  ambition.  On  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  at  no 
great  distance  from  it,  the  mountains  followed  its  course ;  above  these, 
at  the  distance  of  fifty  miles  from  us,  an  irregular  range  of  mountains 
spread  themselves  from  west  to  north-west  from  his  position.  To  the 
north  of  these  a  few  elevated  points,  the  most  remarkable  of  which  bore 
north  65°  west,  appeared  above  the  horizon,  and  as  the  sun  shone  on  the 


J 


V 


m 


1- 


IMMMM 


MN 


144 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


mows  of  their  Rummits,  he  obtained  a  clear  and  satisfactory  view  of  those 
mountains  which  close  on  the  Missouri  the  passage  to  the  Pacific." 

In  the  night  of  the  28th  they  were  alarmed  by  a  new  sort  of  enemy. 
A  buffalo  swam  over  from  the  opposite  side  and  clambered  over  one  of 
the  canoes  to  the  shore ;  then  taking  fright  he  ran  full  speed  up  the  bank 
toward  the  tires,  and  passed  within  eighteen  inches  of  the  beads  of  some 
of  the  men  before  the  sentinel  could  make  him  change  his  course  :  still 
more  alarmed,  ho  ran  down  between  four  fires  and  within  a  few  inches  of 
the  heads  of  a  second  row  of  men,  and  would  have  broken  into  the  lodge 
if  the  barking  of  the  dog  had  not  stopped  him.  He  suddenly  turned  to 
the  right,  and  was  out  of  sight  in  a  moment,  leaving  them  all  in  confu- 
sion, every  one  seizing  his  rillo  and  inquiring  the  cause  of  the  alarm. 
On  learning  what  had  happened,  they  were  rejoiced  at  sufTcring  no  more 
injury  than  the  damage  to  some  guns  in  the  canoe  which  the  buffalo 
crossed.  Next  day  they  passed  a  precipice  about  one  hundred  and  twenty 
feet  high,  imder  which  lay  scattered  the  fragments  of  at  least  a  hundred 
carcases  of  buffaloes.  They  had  been  chased  down  the  precipice  in  a 
way  very  common  on  the  Missouri,  by  which  vast  herds  are  destroyed. 
The  mode  of  hunting  is,  to  select  one  of  the  most  active  young  men,  who 
is  disguised  by  a 'buffalo  skin,  with  the  head  and  cars  so  arranged  as  to 
deceive  the  buffalo ;  thus  dressed  he  fixes  himself  at  a  convenient  dis- 
tance between  a  herd  and  the  river  precipices.  Meanwhile  his  compan- 
ions show  themselves  in  the  rear  and  side  of  the  herd ;  they  instantly 
take  the  alarm  and  rim  toward  the  Indian  decoy,  who  leads  them  on  at 
full  speed  toward  the  river,  then  suddenly  securing  himself  in  some  known 
crevice  of  the  cliff,  leaves  the  herd  on  the  brink  of  the  precipice.  It  is 
then  in  vain  for  the  foremost  to  retreat  or  even  stop ;  they  are  pressed 
on  by  the  hindmost  rank,  who,  seeing  no  danger  but  from  the  hunters, 
goad  on  those  before  them  until  the  whole  are  hurled  down  and  the 
shore  is  strewn  with  their  dead  bodies.  Sometimes  in  this  perilous  se- 
duction the  Indian  is  himself  either  trodden  under  foot  by  the  rapid 
movements  of  the  buffaloes,  or,  missing  his  footing  in  the  cliff,  ia^  urged 
down  the  precipice  by  the  falling  herd. 

In  the  upper  course  of  the  Missouri,  the  rapidity  of  the  current  and 
the  numerous  rocks  rendered  the  navigation  difficult,  and  often  danger- 
ous. They  had  frequently  to  depend  on  towing,  and  as  the  lines  were 
mostly  of  elk-skin,  slender  and  worn,  the  boats  sometimes  narrowly  es- 
caped destruction,  while  the  men  on  the  banks  suffered  great  hardships. 
In  some  places  the  banks  were  slippery  and  the  mud  so  adhesive  that 
they  could  not  wear  their  moccasins ;  often  they  had  to  wade  in  deep 
water,  and  sometimes  to  walk  over  the  sharp  fragments  of  rocks  which 
bad  fiillen  from  the  hills.  As  they  advanced,  the  cliffs  became  higher 
and  more  abrupt.  Sometimes  they  rose  in  perpendicular  walls  and  tur- 
rets, which  at  a  distance  resembled  long  ranges  of  buildings  and  col- 
umns variously  sculptured  and  supporting  elegant  galleries,  while  the 
parapets  were  adorned  with  statuary.    On  a  nearer  approach  they  repre- 


EE. 

ctory  view  of  those 
the  Pacific."  ' 

lew  sort  of  enemy,    j 
nbered  over  one  of 
Bpecd  up  the  banlc    > 
the  heads  of  Bomo 
ge  his  oourse :  still    | 
thin  a  few  inches  of 
oken  into  the  lodge    \ 
suddenly  turned  to 
them  all  in  confu- 
cause  of  the  alarm, 
at  sufToring  no  more 
B  which  the  buffalo 
hundred  and  twenty 
f  at  least  a  hundred 
n  the  precipice  in  a 
lerds  are  destroyed, 
ivc  young  men,  ■who 
Eirs  BO  arranged  as  to 
at  a  convenient  dis- 
amvhile  his  compan- 
herd ;  they  instantly 
Iho  leads  them  on  at 
liniself  in  some  known 
'  the  precipice.    It  is 
op ;  they  are  pressed 
)ut  from  the  hunters, 
urled  down  and  the 
es  in  this  perilous  se- 
ler  foot  by  the  rapid 
g  in  the  cliff,  ist  urged 

ty  of  the  current  and 
ult,  and  often  danger- 
md  as  the  lines  were 
imetimes  narrowly  es- 
Rered  great  hardships, 
mud  so  adhesive  that 
had  to  wade  in  deep 
jments  of  rocks  which 
}  cliffs  became  higher 
ndicular  walls  and  tur- 
of  buildings  and  col- 
it  galleries,  while  the 
ir  approach  they  repre- 


A   PERILOUS   SITUATION. 


146 


sented  every  form  of  picturesque  ruins ;  columns,  some  with  pedestals 
and  capitals  entire,  others  mutilated  and  prostrates  others  rising  pyramid- 
ally over  each  other  until  they  terminated  in  a  sharp  point.  These  were 
varied  by  niches,  alcoves,  and  the  customary  appearances  of  desolated 
magnificence.  As  they  advanced  there  seemed  to  bo  no  end  to  this  vis- 
ionary enchantment. 

On  the  3d  of  June  they  encamped  in  the  morning  on  a  point  formed 
by  the  junction  of  a  large  river  with  the  Missouri.  Hero  they  were  at  a 
loss  to  know  which  was  the  Ahmateahza,  or  Missouri,  therefore  they  dis- 
patched a  party  in  a  canoe  up  each  of  the  streams,  to  ascertain  the  com- 
parative body  of  water,  and  sent  out  companies  to  discover  from  the  ris- 
ing grounds  the  bearings  of  the  two  rivers.  Meanwhile  they  ascended 
the  high  grounds  in  the  fork,  whence  they  saw  a  range  of  lofty  mount- 
ains in  the  south-west,  partially  covered  with  snow,  and  far  beyond  them 
a  still  higher  range  completely  snow-clad,  reaching  off  to  the  north-west, 
where  their  glittering  tops  were  blended  with  the  horizon.  The  direc- 
tion of  the  rivers  was  soon  lost  in  the  extent  of  the  plain.  On  their  re- 
turn they  found  the  north  branch  to  be  two  hundred  yards  wide,  and 
the  south  three  hundred  and  seventy-two.  The  characteristics  of  the 
north  fork  so  nearly  resembled  those  of  the  Missouri,  that  almost  all  the 
party  believed  it  to  be  the  true  course,  while  the  same  circumstances  in- 
duced Captains  Lewis  and  Clarke  to  think  otherwise — that  it  passed 
through  the  low  grounds  of  the  open  plain  in  the  north,  and  did  not 
come  down  from  the  mountains. 

The  reports  of  the  parties  were  far  fi*om  deciding  the  question,  there- 
fore Lewis  and  Clarke  set  out  on  the  4th,  each  to  ascend  one  of  the 
rivers  for  a  day  and  a  haltj  or  more,  if  necessary.  Captain  Lewis  pur- 
sued the  north  fork  for  two  days,  when  finding  its  direction  too  far 
northward  for  their  route  to  the  Pacific,  he  began  to  retrace  his  steps 
on  the  afternoon  of  the  6th.  A  stonti  of  wind  and  rain  which  pre- 
vailed, made  their  returning  route  extremely  unpleasant.  The  surface 
of  the  ground  was  saturated  with  water,  and  so  slippery  that  it  was 
almost  impossible  to  walk  over  the  bluffs  which  they  had  passed  in 
ascending  the  river.  In  advancing  along  the  side  of  one  of  these  blufis, 
at  a  narrow  pass.  Captain  Lewis  slipped,  and  but  for  a  fortunate  re- 
covery by  means  of  his  espontoon,  would  have  been  precipitated  into 
the  river  over  a  precipice  of  about  ninety  feet.  He  had  just  reached  a 
spot,  where,  by  the  assistance  of  his  espontoon,  he  could  stand  with  toler- 
able safety,  when  he  heard  a  voice  behind  him  cry  out,  "  Good  God  I 
captain,  what  shall  I  do  ?"  He  turned  instantly,  and  found  it  was  a  man 
named  Windsor,  who  had  lost  his  foothold  about  the  middle  of  the 
narrow  pass,  and  had  slipped  down  to  the  very  verge  of  the  precipice, 
where  he  lay  with  his  right  arm  and  leg  over  the  brink,  while  with  the 
other  arm  and  leg  he  was  with  difficulty  holding  on  to  keep  himself 
from  being  dashed  to  pieces  below. 

Oapt£un  Lewis  instantly  perceived  his  dreadful  situation,  and  stifling 

10 


mmm 


140 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKR. 


his  nliirni,  cnlmly  told  him  that  ho  v,tw  in  no  danger ;  that  he  flhouM 
take  his  kn:i\i  out  of  hiH  belt  with  the  riglit  hand,  and  dig  a  hole  in  the 
Bide  of  tlie  bhiff  for  hin  right  foot.  With  great  presence  of  mind  ho 
did  thiM,  and  then  rained  liim»elf  on  liis  kneeH.  Then  takhig  off  his 
moccasinH  ho  eunie  forward  on  his  hands  and  knees,  hokling  the  knife 
in  one  iiand  and  his  rifle  in  the  other,  and  tiius  crawled  to  a  secure  spot. 
The  men  who  hnd  not  attempted  this  passage,  returned  and  waded  the 
river  at  the  foot  of  the  bluff,  where  they  found  the  water  breast  high. 
Tims  they  continued  down  the  river,  sometimes  in  mud,  sometimes  up 
to  their  arms  in  water,  and  when  it  became  too  deep  to  wade,  they  eut 
foot-holds  with  their  knives  in  the  sides  of  the  banks.  At  night  they 
encamped  in  an  old  Indian  lodge  of  sticks,  which  affordetl  them  dry 
shelter,  and  tliey  slept  comfortably  on  some  willow  boughs.  They  reach- 
ed the  camp  on  tho  evening  of  the  8th,  and  found  Captain  Clarke  and 
the  party  very  anxious  for  their  safety.  Captain  Lewis,  being  persuaded 
that  this  was  not  the  main  stream,  nor  one  which  it  would  be  advisable 
to  ascend,  gave  it  the  name  of  Maria's  Kiver. 

Captain  Clarke's  party  ascended  the  south  branch.  Near  the  camp 
on  the  evening  of  the  4th,  a  white  bear  attacked  one  of  the  men,  whose 
gun  happening  to  be  wet,  would  not  go  off;  he  instantly  made  toward 
a  tree,  but  was  so  closely  pursued  that  in  climbing  ho  struck  the  bear 
with  his  foot.  The  bear  not  being  able  to  climb,  waited  till  he  should 
be  forced  to  come  down ;  and  as  tho  rest  of  tho  party  were  separated 
from  him  by  a  perpendicular  cliff  which  they  could  not  descend,  it  was 
not  in  their  power  to  give  him  any  assistance :  but  finally  the  bear  was 
frightened  by  their  cries  and  firing,  and  released  him.  Next  day  they 
followed  the  ri  pr  several  miles,  until  Captain  Clarke  was  satisfied  it 
was  their  true  route,  when  they  turned  back  and  reached  the  camp 
on  the  evening  of  the  6th,  Although  Lewis  and  Clarke  were  com- 
pletely satisfied  by  their  observations,  all  the  re«t  of  the  party  were  of  a 
contrary  opinion.  In  order  therefore  that  nothing  might  be  omitted 
which  could  prevent  an  error,  it  was  agreed  that  one  of  them '  should 
ascend  the  southern  branch  by  land,  until  he  reached  either  the  falls 
or  the  mountains.  Meanwhile,  to  lighten  their  burdens,  they  deter- 
mined to  deposit  here  one  of  the  perioques  and  all  the  heavy  baggage 
they  could  possibly  spare  from  the  boats. 

Captain  Lewis  and  his  party  set  out  on  the  11th.  As  there  were 
many  deep  ravines  extending  back  from  the  shore  which  made  the 
traveling  difficult  near  the  river,  they  sometimes  left  it  in  its  windings, 
but  on  the  13th,  being  fearful  of  passing  the  falls,  they  changed  their 
course  toward  tho  river.  They  had  proceeded  thus  awhile,  when 
their  ears  were  greeted  with  the  sound  of  falling  water.  Directing 
their  steps  toward  it  they  reached  the  falls  at  noon,  having  traveled 
seven  miles  since  hearing  tlie  sound.  Captain  Lewis  hastened  to  de- 
scend the  steep  banks,  which  were  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  seating 
himself  on  a  rock  before  the  falls,  enjoyed  the  sublime  spectacle  which 


SIJI 


he 
hi 
be 


frd 
sn 
cc 
ev 


KK. 


THE    FALL8    OF    TIIK    MISSOUUI. 


147 


that  he  should 

lig  ft  hol«  in  the 

scnce  of  minil  he 

■n  taking  oft'  his 

holding  the  knilb 

d  to  a  secure  spot. 

It'll  and  waded  the 

..ater  breast  higli. 

nud,  sometimes  up 

to  wade,  they  cut 

ks.    At  night  they 

affordetl  tliem  dry 

mghs.    Tliey  reach- 

'aptain  Clarke  and 

'is,  being  persuaded 

would  be  advisable 

ch.  Near  the  camp 
e  of  the  men,  whose 
(tantly  made  toward 
r  he  struck  the  bear 
vaited  till  he  should 
party  were  separated 
I  not  descend,  it  was 

finally  the  bear  was 
him.  Next  day  they 
larke  was  satisfied  it 
[id  reached  the  camp 
id  Clarke  were  com- 
if  the  party  were  of  a 
ng  might  be  omitted 

one  of  them 'should 
ached  either  the  falls 

burdens,  they  deter- 
all  the  heavy  baggage 

11th.    As  there  were 
hore  which  made  the 
left  it  in  its  windings, 
lis,  they  changed  their 
ed  thus  awhile,  when 
ling  water.    Directing 
noon,  having  traveled 
Lewis  hastened  to  de- 
feet  high,  and  seating 
sublime  spectacle  which 


since  the  crciition  had  bcon  lavir^hing  its  nmgnilictnco  upon  tno  desert, 
unknown  to  civilization.  "The  river  is  three  hundred  yards  wide  at 
the  fall,  and  is  pressed  in  by  j)erp('n<licular  ditls  which  rise  about  one 
hinidr(!d  ft'ct.  The  fall  itself  is  eighty  feet,  forming  on  <'>>e  side  an 
unbroken  sheet  one  hundred  yards  in  length,  while  the  rcKiaiiiing  part, 
which  precipitates  itself  iu  a  more  rapid  current,  is  broken  by  inif^iilar 
rocks  below,  and  forms  a  splendid  prospect  of  white  foam,  two  thousand 
feet  in  length.  This  spray  is  dissipated  into  a  thousand  sha])es,  some- 
times flying  up  in  columns  of  fit\een  or  twenty  feet,  A'hich  are  then 
oppressed  by  larger  masses  of  the  white  foam,  on  all  which  the  sim 
scatters  the  brightest  colors  of  the  rainbow,  lielow  this  fall  the  river 
for  three  miles  one  continued  succession  of  lapids  and  cascades,  over- 
hung with  perpendicular  bluffs,  from  one  hundred  and  fitly  to  two 
hundred  feet  high." 

Next  morning  a  man  was  dispatched  to  Ca])tain  Clarke  with  an  ac- 
couiil  of  the  discovery  of  the  falls,  and  Captain  Lewis  proceeded  to 
examine  the  rapids  alone.  After  passing  a  series  of  rapids  and  small 
cascades  he  reached,  at  the  distance  of  five  miles,  a  second  tiiU  of  nine- 
teen feet.  While  viewing  it  ho  heard  a  loud  roar  above,  and  crossing 
over  the  point  of  a  hill  for  a  few  hundred  yards,  he  saw  the  whole  Mis- 
souri, here  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  precipitated  in  an  even,  uninter- 
rupted sheet  to  the  perpendicular  dejrth  of  fifty  feet,  whence,  dashing 
against  the  rocky  bottom,  it  rushes  rapidly  down,  leaving  behind  it  a 
Bj)ray  of  the  purest  foam  across  the  river.  The  scene  was  singularly 
beautiful,  without  the  wild,  irregular  sublimity  of  the  lower  falls.  The 
eye  had  scarcely  been  regaled  with  this  charming  prospect  when,  at  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile.  Captain  Lewis  observed  another  of  a  similar 
kind.  Hastening  thither  he  found  a  cascade  stretching  across  the  river 
with  a  descent  of  fourteen  feet,  though  the  perpendicular  pitch  was  only 
six  feet.  This  too  in  any  other  neighborhood  would  have  been  an  ob- 
ject of  great  magnificence,  but  after  what  he  had  just  seen  it  became 
of  secondary  interest ;  his  curiosity  being  however  awakened,  he  de- 
termined to  go  on,  even  should  night  overtake  him,  to  the  head  of  the 
fallo.  The  river  was  a  constant  succession  of  rapids  and  small  cascades, 
at  every  one  of  Avhich  the  blufib  became  lower,  or  the  bed  of  the  river 
more  on  a  level  with  the  plains.  At  the  distance  of  two  and  a  half  miles 
he  arrived  at  another  cataract  of  twenty-six  feet,  where  tlie  river  was  six 
hundred  yards  wide.  Just  above  this  was  a  cascade  of  about  five  feet, 
beyond  which,  as  far  as  could  be  discerned,  the  velocity  of  the  water 
seemed  to  abate. 

Captain  Lewis  now  ascended  the  hill  which  was  behind  him,  and  saw 
from  its  top  a  beautiftd  plain  extending  firom  the  river  to  the  base  of  the 
snow-mountains  in  the  south  and  south-west.  Along  this  wide  level 
country  the  Missouri  pursued  its  winding  course,  filled  with  water  to  its 
even  and  grassy  banks ;  while,  about  four  miles  above,  it  was  joined  by  a 
large  river  flowing  from  the  north-west,  through  a  valley  three  miles  in 


m 


ttmmm 


148 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


width,  and  distinguished  by  thi  timber  which  adorned  its  shores.  He 
then  descended  the  hill,  and  directed  his  course  toward  the  river  falling 
in  from  the  west.  He  soon  met  a  herd  of  at  least  a  thousand  buffaloes,  and 
being  desirous  of  providing  for  supper,  shot  one  of  them.  The  animal  im- 
mediately began  to  bleed,  and  the  Captain,  who  had  forgotten  to  reload 
his  rifle,  was  intensely  watching  to  see  him  fall,  when  he  beheld  a  large 
brown  bear  which  was  stealing  upon  him  unperceived,  and  was  already 
Avithin  twenty  steps.  In  the  first  moment  of  surprise  he  lifted  his  rifle, 
but  remembering  instantly  that  it  was  not  charged,  and  that  he  had  not 
time  to  reload,  he  felt  that  there  was  no  safety  but  in  flight.  It  was  in  the 
open  level  plain,  not  a  bush  or  tree  within  three  hundred  yards,  the  bank 
of  the  river  sloping  and  not  more  than  three  feet  high,  so  that  there  was 
no  possible  mode  of  concealment.  He  therefore  thought  of  retreating  in 
a  quick  walk,  as  fast  as  the  bear  advanced,  toward  the  nearest  tree ;  but 
as  soon  as  he  turned,  the  bear  ran,  open  mouth,  and  at  full  speed  upon 
him.  Captain  Lewis  ran  about  eighty  yards,  but  finding  that  the  animal 
gained  on  him  fast,  it  flashed  on  his  mind  that  by  getting  into  the  water 
to  such  a  depth  that  the  bear  -wjould  be  obliged  to  attack  him  swimming, 
there  was  still  some  chance  of  his  life.  He  therefore  turned  short, 
plunged  into  the  river  about  waist  deep,  and  facing  about,  presented  the 
point  of  his  cspontoon.  The  bear  came  to  the  water's  edge  within 
twenty  feet  of  him,  but  as  soon  as  ho  put  himself  in  this  posture  of  de- 
fense, he  seemed  frightened,  and  wheeling  about,  retreated  with  as  much 
precipitation  as  he  had  pursued.  Very  glad  to  be  released  fi*om  this 
danger,  Captain  Lewis  returned  to  the  shore,  and  observed  him  run  with 
great  speed,  sometimes  looking  back  as  if  he  expected  to  be  pursued,  till 
he  reached  the  woods.  He  could  not  conceive  the  cause  of  the  sudden 
alarm  of  the  bear,  but  congratulating  himself  on  his  escape  when  he  saw 
his  own  track  torn  to  pieces  by  the  furious  animal,  he  learned  from  the 
whole  adventure  never  to  suffer  his  rifle  to  be  a  moment  unloaded.  The 
river  to  which  he  directed  his  steps  he  found  to  be  the  Medicine  River 
of  the  Indians,  mentioned  as  emptying  itself  into  the  Missouri,  just  above 
the  falls.  He  set  out  in  the  evening  to  retrace  his  steps  to  the  camp, 
twelve  miles  distant,  and,  after  fresh  encounters  with  wild  beasts,  came 
late  at  night  to  his  party,  who  were  anxious  for  his  safety. 

Captain  Clarke  and  his  party  arrived  in  the  boats  at  the  rapids  on 
the  15th,  where  they  were  joined  next  day  by  Captain  Lewis.  They 
then  proceeded  to  examine  the  ground  for  a  portage,  to  deposit  a  por- 
tion of  their  goods  and  baggage,  and  to  prepare  carriages  for  the  trans' 
portation  of  the  boats  with  the  remainder.  The  portage  was  about  fif- 
teen miles.  The  men  were  loaded  as  heavily  as  their  strength  would 
permit,  and  the  prickly  pear  and  the  sharp  points  of  earth  formed  by  the 
buffalo  during  the  late  rains  made  the  crossing  really  painful.  Some 
were  limping  from  the  soreness  of  their  feet,  othors  scarcely  able  to  stand 
&om  the  heat  and  fatigue.    They  were  obliged  to  halt  and  rest  &e- 


A.RKB. 

rncd  its  shoves.    Ho 
vard  the  river  falling    | 
lousand  buffaloes,  and    i 
them.  The  animal  im-    \ 
id  forgotten  to  reload    ! 
lien  he  beheld  a  large    j 
ivcd,  and  was  already    j 
rise  he  lifted  hia  rifle,    | 
I,  and  that  he  had  not 
n  flight.    It  was  in  the    i 
indred  yards,  the  bank    j 
ligh,  so  that  there  was   j 
aought  of  retreating  in    , 
I  the  nearest  tree ;  but    , 
nd  at  full  speed  upon    I 
finding  that  the  animal    \ 
getting  into  the  water    | 
I  attack  him  swimming,    j 
herefore  turned  short,    j 
ig  about,  presented  the 
e  water's  edge  withm    | 
Ifin  this  posture  of  de-    \ 
retreated  with  as  much    ; 
>  be  released  from  this 
.  observed  him  run  with 
ected  to  be  pursued,  till    j 
he  cause  of  the  sudden    | 
his  escape  when  he  saw 
lal,  ho  learned  from  the 
moment  unloaded.   The 
be  the  Medicine  River 
,  the  Missouri,  just  above 
e  his  steps  to  the  camp, 
s  with  wild  beasts,  came 
his  safety. 

boats  at  the  rapids  on 
Y  Captain  Lewis.  They 
artage,  to  deposit  a  por- 
e  carriages  for  the  trans- 
he  portage  was  about  fif- 
as  their  strength  would 
Its  of  earth  formed  by  the 
ng  really  painful.  Some 
lors  scarcely  able  to  stand 
•ed  to  halt  and  rest  fre- 


BNTERINa   THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 


149 


quently,  and  at  almost  every  stopping-place  they  would  fall  asleep  in  an 
instant ;  still  they  went  on  with  great  cheerfulness. 

On  the  29th,  Captain  Clarke,  accompanied  by  his  servant,  York, 
Chaboneau  and  his  wife  and  child,  proceeded  to  the  falls  to  make  further 
observations.  On  his  arrival  he  observed  a  very  dark  cloud  rising  in 
the  west,  which  threatened  rain.  He  took  sheUer  in  a  deep  ruvmc, 
where  some  shelving  rocks  kept  off  the  rain.  The  shower  increased, 
and  presently  a  torrent  of  rain  and  hail  descended.  The  raui  fell  in  a 
solid  mass,  and  instantly  collecting  in  the  ravhie  came  rolling  down  ui  a 
dreadful  current,  carryhig  the  mud  and  rocks,  and  every  thing  that 
opposed  it.  Captain  Clarke  fortunately  saw  the  danger  a  moment  be- 
fore it  reached  them,  and  sprang  up  the  steep  bluff  with  his  gun  and 
shot-pouch  in  one  hand,  pushing  the  Indian  woman  with  her  child  before 
liim.  Her  husband,  too,  had  seized  her  hand,  but  Avas  so  terrified  that 
but  for  Captain  Clarke  they  would  all  have  been  lost.  So  instantaneous 
was  the  rise  of  the  water,  that  before  he  had  reached  his  gun  and  began 
to  ascend  the  bank,  the  water  was  up  to  his  waist,  and  he  could  scarcely 
get  up  faster  than  it  rose,  till  it  reached  the  height  of  fifteen  feet,  with 
a  furious  current  that  would  have  swept  them  into  the  river  just  above 
the  Great  Falls,  down  which  they  must  inevitably  have  been  precipitated. 
He  now  relinquished  his  intention  of  going  up  the  river,  and  returned 
to  the  camp. 

Finally,  after  unheard-of  toil  and  privations,  the  various  parties  had 
arrived  at  the  camp  above  the  falls  and  transported  all  the  baggage 
thither  by  the  1st  of  July.    Here  some  days  were  spent  in  building  a 
boat,  and  calking  it  with  a  composition  of  charcoal,  with  beeswax  and 
buffalo-tallow,  instead  of  tar,  which  they  could  not  obtain ;  but  on  the 
9th,  when  it  was  lanched  and  loaded,  it  leaked  so  that  they  were 
obliged  to  abandon  it.    Captain  Clarke,  with  a  party  of  workmen,  then 
went  to  some  timber  on  the  river,  eight  miles  above,  where  they  con- 
structed  some  canoes.    The  expedition  proceeded  by  land  and  by  water 
to  join  them,  and  on  the  15th  of  July  they  embarked  all  their  baggage 
on  board  of  eight  canoes,  and  set  out  on  their  journey.    On  the  19th 
they  went  through  a  grand  mountain-pass,  which  they  called  the  Gates 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains.    For  nearly  six  miles  the  rocks  rise  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  water's  edge  to  the  height  of  nearly  twelve  hundred 
feet.    Being  anxious  to  meet  with  the  Shoshonees  or  Snake  Indians,  and 
fearful  lest  they  should  hear  of  the  expedition  and  retreat  to  the  mount- 
ains, Captam  Clarke  frequently  went  on  by  land  in  advance.    On  the 
25th  he  arrived  at  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri,  and  finding  that  the 
north  branch,  though  not  largest,  contained  more  water  than  the  middle 
one,  and  bore  more  to  the  westward,  he  determined  to  ascend  it.    There- 
fore leaving  a  note  for  Captain  Lewis,  he  went  up  the  stream  twenty-five 
miles ;  when  Chaboneau  being  unable  to  proceed  further,  the  party  en- 
camped, all  of  them  much  fatigued,  their  feet  blistered,  and  wounded 
by  the  prickly  pear.    Captain  Clarke  proceeded  next  dny  to  the  top  of 


TRAVELS  OP  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 

•i.a  fnrther  whence  he  had  an  extensive  view  of 
a  mountain  twelve  "^f /'^^^'^X  Ji  signs  of  Indians.  He  then  re- 
tho  river  valley  upward,  ^"t  ^^^J^^^^f  ^ss  to  the  middle  branch, 
turned  to  Chaboneau,  f '^^'^f^^^^^^,'^^^^^^  at  the  forks  on  th.  27th. 
and  descending  it  met  ^'^^^^'^'^^'^^onth-e^tevn  branch,  w>«lch  he 
Captain  Lewis  had  first  arrived  «^;}^«  «^^^^^^^  Ri^er,  in  honor  of  the 
asc'ended  a  short  distance  and  n  W  G  ^a^^^^  ^^  ^^^  ;^„,,,„,e  ,,  ,^ 
Secretary  of  the  Treasury.    He  then  p  ^^^  encamped 

other  branches,  whore  he  ^^^..^^P'^  arrived  much  exhausted  with 
on  the  south-west  fork  to  ^wait  hun.    Hejr  ^^^^  ^^^^^ 

fatigue,  and  with  fever  and  chUls  ^^^^^^^  afficult  to  decide  which 
from  a  spring  in  the  heat  of  the  day  ^fji^^^^rf,  ^hey  were  induced 
of  the  t  .0  streams  was  the  larger,  or  th^^^^^^^^  ,^,  „,^e  of 

to  discontinue  the  name,  and  gave  t«  t  ^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^ 

Jefferson,  in  honor  of  th.  Pre«ide\of  «^^^^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^  ,^^ 

jector  of  the  enterprise;  anu  called  themia 

Secretary  of  State.  vostored  by  the  30th,  they  began  to 

Captain  Clarke  being  "^'^^^^^jj^/^^,  ^^  August  Captain  Lewis  left 
ascend  the  Jefferson  River.  O^.X^fau  and  Drewyer,  to  go  on  m 
the  party,  with  Sergeant  Gass,  Chaboneau,  an  y^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^^^ 

advance  in  search  of  ^^e  Shoshonee.    In  a  few      y^_^  ^^^^^^^^^^^ 

in  the  river,  and  findmg  the ^^^^^ll  to  flow  from  an  opening^m  the 
the  other  was  more  turbid,  and  seemea  ^^  ^  ^^^^^ 

mountams,  he  left  a  note  '^^^o^^^^^'J^f  ^"^^e  rapid  branch.  This  he 
and  then  contmued  his  course  along  thejnore      p     ^^^^^^^^.^^  ,^. 

followed  for  more  than  a  f-y^'^'^^^^^lr:^on.  From  the  general 
tamed  an  extensive  view  of  the  ««"«™f  ^  ^y  which  it  intersects 
course  of  the  southern  stream  as  Wl  as  ^« jaPj^  ^^  ,^,,  ..^ssed 
the  mountains,  he  decided  to  make  ^t^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^^  ^^       he 

over  to  the  other  branch,  and  d««cena««  ^^  ^^  j^^^^y 

;     found  the  party  m  f  .^^^ks T^' ^^^^^^^  ^'  ^'^  '  Vl*  7 

left.    They  had  reached  the  fo^j'^J"  \^  ^^  ^  green  pole,  which  the 

t     luckily  Capt^n  Lewis's  note  had  been  left  on      g        F^^^.^^^^  ^^^^ 

I     beavers  had  cut  down  and  earned  off'^^^^^^^^^^^^^  „^ .^e  two  branches ; 

i     deprived  them  of  all  ^f  ^'^^^  f^st' n  th^^^^^^^^  and  contained  as 

and  as  the  north-west  fork  was  ™o«  t^n  ^hen-  ^^  ^^^^^^^^^  ^^^.^^  ^^^  .^^ 

much  water,  they  ascended  It.  ^^^^  Next  mommg 

i     waters  so  scattered,  that  ^^^y  P^^^^^XhXgone  out  in  search  of  deer, 
they  had  been  joined  by  Drewye'-  jho  ha^  go  ^^^  ^^  ^^^^^ 

and  who  informed  them  o^tUf^^eoife  two     ^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^ 

t^r'ca^n  SThtl^rS:::^  --  -y  caned  Wisdom 

^n  the  nh  they  continued  theh^3-;SnX^  ^^^Z^lZ 
mediately  after  breakfast  ^  ^^n/their  kn^'acks,  tW  set  out  with  a 


lEE. 

extensive  view  of 
lians.  He  then  re- 
,e  nxiddle  branch, 
forks  on  th*^  27th. 
branch,  wiilch  he 
|er,  in  Jionor  of  the 
le  confluence  of  the 
iote,  and  encamped 
ich  exhausted  with 
Irinking  cold  water 
Jcult  to  decide  which 
i,  they  were  induced 
branch  the  name  of 
States  and  the  pro- 
h  Madison,  after  the 

0th,  they  began  to 
it  Captain  Lewis  left 
rewyer,  to  go  on  in 
ys  he  came  to  forks 
nd  obstructed,  while 
om  an  opening  in  the 
iv  to  Captain  Clarke, 
lid  branch.    This  he 
le  mountains,  he  ob- 
n.    From  the  general 
by  which  it  intersects 
ute.    He  then  crossed 
I  the  forks,  where  he 
3  stream  he  had  lately 
on  of  the  5th,.  but  un- 
green  pole,  which  the 
ote,  an  accident  which 
r  of  the  two  branches ; 
tion,  and  contained  as 
tremely  rapid,  and  its 
culty.    Next  morning 
out  in  search  of  deer, 
rivers,  and  of  Capttun 
3  fork,  when  they  met 
they  called  Wisdom 

p  the  Jefferson.  Im- 
Lewis  took  Drewyer, 
cs,  tliey  set  out  with  a 
they  returned,  however 


SNAKE    INDIANS— THE    DIVIDING    RIDGE. 


151 


long  they  might  bo  separated  from  the  party.  They  followed  the  river 
by  an  Indian  road  imtil  they  entered  the  mountains  next  day,  and  came 
to  two  nearly  equal  branches.  Finding  the  best  road  on  the  right  fork, 
Captain  Lewis  concluded  to  follow  it,  and  left  a  note  to  that  effect  for 
Captain  Clarke. 

They  had  gone  but  a  few  miles  on  the  morning  of  the  11th,  when 
they  were  delighted  to  see  a  man  on  horseback,  at  the  distance  of  two 
miles,  coming  down  to  meet  them.  On  examining  him  with  the  glass, 
Captain  Lewis  saw  that  he  was  of  a  different  nation  from  any  Indians 
they  had  hitherto  met.  He  was  armed  with  a  bow  and  quiver  of  ar- 
rows ;  mounted  on  an  elegant  horse,  without  a  saddle,  while  a  small 
string  attached  to  the  under  jaw  answered  as  a  bridle.  Convinced  that 
he  was  a  Shoshonee,  and  knowing  how  much  of  their  success  depended 
on  the  friendly  offices  of  that  nation,  Captain  Lewis  was  anxious  to  ap- 
proach without  alarming  him,  and  endeavor  to  convince  him  that  he 
was  a  white  man.  He  therefore  proceeded  on  at  his  usual  pace.  When 
they  were  within  a  mile  of  each  other  t'  3  Indian  suddenly  stopped ; 
Lewis  followed  his  example,  took  his  blanket  from  his  knapsack,  and  hold- 
ing it  with  both  hands  at  the  two  comers,  threw  it  above  his  head,  and 
unfolded  it  as  he  brought  it  to  the  ground,  as  if  in  the  act  of  spreading 
it.  This  signal  is  the  universal  sign  of  friendship  among  the  Indians  on 
the  Missouri  and  Rocky  Mountains.  As  usual,  Captain  Lewis  repeated 
this  signal  three  times ;  still  the  Indian  kept  his  position,  and  looked 
with  an  air  of  suspicion  on  Drewyer  and  Shields,  who  were  now  advancing 
on  each  side.  Lewis  then  took  from  his  pack  some  beads,  a  looking-glass, 
and  a  few  trinkets,  which  he  had  brought  for  the  purpose,  and  advanced 
unarmed  toward  the  Indian.  He  remained  awhile,  then  turned  his  horse 
and  began  to  move  off  slowly.  Captain  Lewis  then  called  out  "  Tabba 
bone .'"  ("  white  man"),  but  the  Indian  kept  his  eye  on  Drewyer  and 
Shields,  who  were  still  thoughtlessly  advancing,  till  Lewis  made  a  signal 
to  them  to  halt.  Then  the  Indian  waited  for  Captain  Lewis,  who  still 
came  nearer,  repeating  the  words  '*  tabba  bone,"  and  holding  up  the  trin- 
kets, at  the  same  time  stripping  up  his  sleeve  to  show  the  color  of  his 
skin.  He  thus  advanced  within  a  hundred  paces,  but  as  Shields,  who 
had  not  observed  the  signal,  was  still  approaching,  the  Indian  suddenly 
turned  his  horse,  and  leaping  the  creek,  disappeared  in  an  instant. 
Though  sadly  disappointed.  Captain  Lewis  determined  to  make  some  use 
of  the  incident.  He  therefore  set  off  with  his  men  to  follow  the  track, 
hoping  it  might  lead  them  to  a  body  of  the  nation.  They  now  fixed  a 
small  flag  of  the  United  States  on  a  pole,  which  was  carried  as  a  signal 
of  their  friendly  intentions,  should  the  Indians  see  them  approaching. 
Thus  pursuing  their  journey,  they  came,  on  the  12th,  to  a  plain  Indian 
road  which  led  directly  on  toward  the  mountain.  The  stream  gradually 
became  smaller,  till,  after  going  a  few  miles,  it  had  so  greatly  diminished 
in  width,  that  one  of  the  men,  in  a  fit  of  enthusiasm,  with  one  foot  on 
each  side  of  the  river,  thanked  God  that  ho  had  lived  to  bestride  the 


152 


TRAVELS  OP  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


Missouri.  As  they  went  along,  their  hopes  of  soon  seeing  the  waters 
of  the  Columbia  arose  ahnost  to  panful  anxiety,  when,  after  four  mUes 
from  the  last  abrupt  turn  of  the  river,  they  reached  a  small  gap  formed 
by  the  high  mountains,  which  recede  on  each  side,  leaving  room  for  the 
Indian  road.  "  From  the  foot  of  one  of  the  lowest  of  these  mountains, 
which  rises  with  a  gentle  ascent  of  about  half  a  mUe,  issues  the  remotest 
water  of  the  Missouri.  They  had  now  reached  the  hidden  sources  of 
that  river,  which  had  never  yet  been  seen  by  civilized  man  ;  and  as  they 
quenched  their  thirst  at  the  chaste  and  icy  fountain— as  they  sat  down 
by  the  brink  of  that  little  rivulet,  which  yielded  its  modest  tribute  to  the 
parent  ocean— they  felt  themselves  rewarded  for  all  their  labors  and  aU 
their  difficulties.  They  left  reluctantly  this  interesting  spot,  and  pursmng 
the  Indian  road  through  the  interval  of  the  hiUs,  arrived  at  the  top  of  a 
ridge,  from  which  they  saw  high  mountains,  partially  covered  with  snow, 
lying  still  further  west.  The  ridge  on  which  they  stood  formed  the  di- 
viding  lino  between  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  oceans.  They 
followed  a  descent  much  steeper  than  that  on  the  eastern  side,  and  at 
the  distance  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  reached  a  fine,  bold  creek  of 
cold  water,  running  to  the  westward.  They  stopped  to  taste,  for  the  first 
time,  the  waters  of  the  Columbia." 

Next  day,  as  they  were  purauing  their  journey  westward  through  an 
open,  broken  country,  they  perceived  two  women,  a  man,  and  two  dogs 
on  an  eminence  a  mile  before  them.    The  strangers  seemed  at  first  to 
await  them,  and  Captain  Lewis  approached,  unfuriing  the  flag  and  caU- 
ing  "  Tabba  bone!''    But  the  females  first  retreated  behind  the  biU, 
and  when  Lewis  came  near  the  man  went  off  also,  and  they  had  all  dis- 
appeared when  he  reached  the  top  of  the  hiU.    They  had  gone  about  a 
mile  further,  when  they  suddenly  came  upon  three  female  Indians  from 
whom  they  had  been  concealed  untU  they  were  within  thirty  paces  of 
each  other.    A  young  woman  fled,  the  other  two,  an  elderiy  woman 
and  a  little  giri,  seeing  the  strangers  too  near  for  them  to  escape,  sat 
on  the  ground,  holding  down  their  heads  as  if  reconcUed  to  the  death 
which  they  supposed  awaited  them.    Captain  Lewis  put  down  his  rifle, 
and  advancing,  took  the  woman  by  the  hand,  raised  her,  and  repeated 
the  words  "  tabba  bone !"  at  the  same  time  baring  his  arm  to  prove  that 
he  was  a  white  man,  for  his  hands  and  face  had  become,  by  exposure,  as 
dark  as  their  own.    She  appeared  at  once  relieved,  and  Captam  Leww 
gave  them  some  beads,  pewter  mirrors,  paint,  and  other  tnnkets,  as  well 
as  to  their  companions,  who  had  hastened  back  when  called,  and  he 
painted  their  cheeks  with  vermUion,  a  ceremony  which  among  the  bho- 
flhonees,  is  emblematic  of  peace.    Afterward,  at  his  request,  they  con- 
ducted  the  party  toward  the  Indian  camp. 

In  this  way  they  had  marched  two  mUes,  when  they  met  a  troop  ol 
nearly  sixty  warriors,  well  mounted,  riding  at  full  speed  toward  them. 
Captain  Lewis  put  down  his  gun  and  went  forward  with  the  flag.  Ihe 
chief  spoke  to  the  women,  who  explained  and  showed  exulUngly  the 


IMMMIMMI 


ARKE. 

lon  seeing  the  waters 
vhen,  after  four  miles 
d  a  small  gap  formed 

leaving  room  for  the 
t  of  these  mountains, 
le,  issues  the  remotest 
he  hidden  sources  of 
zed  man ;  and  as  they 
lin — as  they  sat  doMm 
1  modest  tribute  to  the 
ill  their  labors  and  all 
;ing  spot,  and  pursuing 
irrived  at  the  top  of  a 
illy  covered  with  snow, 
'  stood  formed  the  di- 
l  Pacific  oceans.  They 
e  eastern  side,  and  at 

a  fine,  bold  creek  of 
led  to  taste,  for  the  first 

J  westward  through  an 
I,  a  man,  and  two  dogs 
ers  seemed  at  first  to 
rling  the  flag  and  call- 
•eated  behind  the  hill, 
,  and  they  had  all  dis- 
hey  had  gone  about  a 
e  female  Indians  from 
within  thirty  paces  of 
two,  an  elderly  woman 
or  them  to  escape,  sat 
econciled  to  the  death 
wis  put  down  his  rifle, 
aised  her,  and  repeated 
ig  his  arm  to  prove  that 
lecome,  by  exposure,  as 
ed,  and  Captain  Lewis 
d  other  trinkets,  as  well 
ik  when  called,  and  he 
which  among  the  Sho- 
t  his  request,  they  con- 

3n  they  met  a  troop  of 

ill  speed  toward  them. 

ird  with  the  flag.    The 

showed  exultingly  the 


RECEPTION    BY    THE   SHOSHONEES. 


15S 


presents  they  had  received,  and  then  the  chief  and  two  warriors  leaped 
from  their  horses,  came  up  to  Captain  Lewis,  and  embraced  him  with 
great  cordiality,  at  the  same  time  applying  their  left  cheek  to  his,  and 
frequently  vociferating  "  Ah  hi  e  I  ah  hi  e  /"  "  I  am  much  pleased ;  I  am 
much  rejoiced."  The  whole  body  of  warriors  now  came  forward,  and 
the  men  received  the  caresses,  and  the  grease  and  paint,  of  their  new 
friends.  After  this  fraternal  embrace.  Captain  Lewis  lighted  a  pipe  and 
offered  it  to  the  Indians,  who  now  seated  themselves  in  a  circle  around 
the  party.  But  before  they  accepted  tiiis  mark  of  friendship,  they  pulled 
off  their  moccasins,  a  custom  which  indicates  the  sacred  sincerity  of  their 
professions  when  they  smoke  with  a  stranger,  and  imprecates  on  them- 
selves the  misery  of  going  barefoot  forever  if  they  are  faithless  to  their 
words,  a  penalty  by  no  means  light  to  those  who  roam  over  the  thorny 
plains  of  their  country.  It  is  not  unworthy  to  remark  the  analogy 
which  some  of  the  customs  of  these  children  of  the  wilderness  bear  to 
those  recorded  in  Holy  Writ.  After  a  few  pipes  were  smoked  and  some 
presents  distributed.  Captain  Lewis  stated  the  friendly  object  of  their 
visit,  and  gave  the  flag  to  the  chief  as  an  emblem  of  peace,  after  which 
they  proceeded  to  the  Indian  camp.  There  a  council  was  held,  in  which 
the  captam  more  fully  explained  the  purposes  of  his  visit,  and  distributed 
the  few  articlos  he  had  left  to  the  wondering  crowd  which  had  assembled 
to  see  the  first  white  men.  Here  he  Icaincd  that  an  alarm  had  been 
given,  and  the  warriors  he  had  met  in  the  morning  were  coming  down 
to  attack  the  supposed  enemy. 

In  order  to  give  time  for  the  boats  to  reach  the  forks  of  the  river, 
Captain  Lewis  remained  a  while,  and  obtained  all  the  information  he 
could  collect  in  regard  to  the  country.  On  the  14th,  his  men  went  out 
vrith  the  Indians  to  hunt,  but  as  they  were  unsuccessful  he  made  a  little 
paste  with  flour,  which,  with  some  berries,  formed  a  palatable  repast. 
Having  secured  the  goodwill  of  the  chief,  he  informed  him  of  the  ap- 
proach of  his  companions,  and  induced  him  to  go  do\\Ti  with  horses  to 
assist  in  transporting  their  merchandise.  On  the  morning  of  the  15th, 
he  began  to  feel  the  inconveniences  of  hunger,  and  found  that  his  whole 
stock  of  provisions  consisted  of  two  pounds  of  flour.  This  was  divided, 
and  one  half  boiled  with  the  berries  into  a  sort  of  pudding ;  and  after 
presenting  a  large  share  to  the  chief,  he  and  his  men  breakfasted  on  the 
remainder.  Camcahwait,  the  chief,  was  delighted  with  this  new  dish ;  he 
examined  the  flour,  and  asked  if  it  was  made  of  roots ;  the  process  of 
preparing  it  was  explained,  and  he  said  it  was  the  best  thmg  he  had 
eaten  for  a  long  time.  Captain  Lewis  now  endeavored  to  hasten  the 
departure  of  the  Indians,  who,  although  urged  by  the  chief,  were  still 
reluctant,  having  heard  tJhat  he  was  in  league  with  their  enemies,  the 
Pahkees.  Finally,  by  appearing  to  doubt  their  courage,  he  succeeded 
in  enlisting  a  few,  with  whom  he  smoked  a  pipe  and  set  off  immediately. 
Their  departure  si)rcad  a  gloom  over  the  village,  yet  they  had  not  gone 
far  when  they  were  joined  by  others,  and  before  they  had  reached  the 


rjiaifrT^""^"™*^' 


154 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


spring  where  they  had  encamped  on  the  12th,  all  the  men  of  the  nation, 
and  a  number  of  the  women,  had  overtaken  them.  Here  they  halted  an 
hour  to  let  the  horses  graze,  and  at  sunset  encamped  at  the  upper  end 

of  the  valley. 

Next  morning  Captain  Lewis  sent  two  hunters  ahead  to  procure  pro- 
visions, at  the  same  time  requesting  Cameahwait  to  prevent  his  young 
men  from  going  out,  lest  by  their  noise  they  might  alarm  tlie  game,  but 
this  immediately  revived  their  suspicions.    They  believed  these  men 
were  sent  forward  to  apprize  the  enemy  of  their  comuig,  and  smaU  par- 
ties of  Indians  went  out  on  each  side  of  the  valley,  under  pretense  of 
huntin«»,  but  in  reality  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  two  men ;  while 
a  considerable  number,  alarmed,  went  home.    An  hour  afterward  they 
saw  one  of  the  spies  coming  back  at  full  speed  across  the  plam ;  the  chief 
stopped  and  seemed  uneasy,  the  rest  were  moved  with  fresh  suspicions, 
and  Captain  Lewis  himself  was  disconcerted ;  but  the  young  Indian  had 
scarcely  breath  to  say  a  few  words  as  he  came  up,  when  the  whole  troop 
dashed  forward  as  fast  as  their  horses  could  carry  them;  and  Captain 
Lewis,  astonished,  was  borne  along  nearly  a  mUe  before  he  learned,  with 
great  satisfaction,  that  it  was  aU  caused  by  the  announcement  that  one 
of  the  white  men  had  killed  a  deer.    When  they  reached  the  place 
where  Drewyer  had  thrown  its  intestines,  they  all  dismounted  m  con- 
fusion, and  ran  tumbling  over  each  other  like  famished  dogs,  each  tear- 
ing  away  whatever  part  he  could,  and  beginning  to  eat  it.    When  the 
deer  was  skinned  Captain  Lewis  reserved  one  quarter  and  gave  the  rest 
to  the  Indians,  who  devoured  nearly  the  whole  of  it  without  cooking. 
Two  more  deer  were  brought  in,  and  these  scenes  repeated,  until  the 
Indians  seemed  completely  satisfied  and  in  good  hiunor.    At  length,  as 
they  were  approaching  the  place  where  they  were  to  see  the  white  men, 
the  chief  placed  ornaments  around  the  necks  of  Lewis  and  his  party, 
evidently  to  disguise  the  white  men.    Seeing  this,  Captain  Lewis,  to 
inspire  them  with  confidence,  put  his  cocked  hat  and  feather  on  the  head 
of  the  chief;  the  men  followed  his  example,  and  the  change  seemed  very 

agreeable  to  the  Indians.  ,  .     ,   , 

To  guard  against  disappointment.  Captain  Lewis  explamed  the  possi- 
biUty  of  his  companions  not  having  reached  the  forks,  in  consequence  of 
the  difficulty  of  navigation ;  and  to  the  disappointment  of  both  parties, 
on  coming  within  two  mUes  of  the  forks,  no  canoes  were  to  be  seen. 
Uneasy  lest  at  this  moment  he  should  be  abandoned  and  all  his  hopes 
of  obtaining  aid  from  the  Indians  destroyed,  he  gave  the  chief  his  gun, 
teUing  him  that  if  the  enemies  of  his  nation  were  in  the  bushes  he  might 
defend  himself  mth  it ;  that  for  his  own  part  he  was  not  afraid  to  die, 
and  thai  the  chief  might  shoot  him  as  soon  as  they  discovered  themselves 
betrayed.  As  they  went  on,  Captain  Lewis  sent  a  man  with  an  Indian 
for  the  notes  he  had  left,  which  he  pretended  to  be  from  his  companion, 
sent  forward  by  agreement,  to  let  him  know  where  the  boats  were  ;  that 
they  were  just  below  the  mountains,  coming  slowly  against  the  current. 


(EE. 

men  of  the  nation, 

jHcre  they  halted  an 

at  the  upper  end 

ead  to  procure  pro- 
prevent  his  young 
alarm  tlie  game,  but 
believed  these  men 
miiig,  and  small  par- 
,  under  pretense  of 
he  two  men;  while 
our  afterward  they 
j  the  plain ;  the  chief 
vith  fresh  suspicions, 
he  young  Indian  had 
fhen  the  whole  troop 
r  them ;  and  Captain 
fore  he  learned,  with 
ouncement  that  one 
y  reached  the  place 
dismounted  in  con- 
shed  dogs,  each  tear- 
;o  eat  it.     When  the 
ter  and  ga^e  the  rest 
t  it  without  cooking, 
23  repeated,  until  the 
lunor.    At  length,  as 
to  see  the  white  men, 
Lewis  and  his  party, 
lis,  Captain  Lewis,  to 
d  feather  on  the  head 
B  change  seemed  very 

is  explained  the  possi- 
ks,  in  consequence  of 
nent  of  both  parties, 
(68  were  to  be  seen, 
led  and  all  his  hopes 
ve  the  chief  his  gun, 
I  the  bushes  he  might 
raa  not  afraid  to  die, 
iiscovered  themselves 
man  with  an  Indian 
from  his  companion, 
the  boats  were  ;  that 
f  against  the  current. 


AN   INDIAN    RECOGNITION. 


155 


The  chief  and  the  greater  part  of  the  Indians  were  satisfied ;  they  spent 
the  night  hero,  and  in  the  morning  Drewyer  and  an  Indian  were  dis- 
patched down  the  river  in  quest  of  the  boats.  They  had  been  gone  two 
hours  when  a  straggling  Indian  came  in  with  a  report  that  he  had  seen 
the  white  men,  who  were  only  a  short  distance  below,  and  were  coming 
on.  The  Indiana  were  all  transported  with  joy,  and  the  chief,  in  the 
warmth  of  his  satisfaction,  renewed  his  embrace  of  Captain  Lewis,  who 
was  quite  as  much  delighted  as  the  Indians  themselves. 

Meanwhile  the  party  in  the  boats  had  been  ascending  the  multiplied 
windings  of  the  river  by  a  slow  and  toilsome  progress,  and  on  the  night 
of  the  16th  were  encamped  only  four  miles,  by  land,  below  the  forks, 
although  the  distance  was  ten  miles  by  water.  On  setting  out  in  the  morn- 
ing. Captain  Clarke,  with  Chaboneau  and  his  wife,  walked  on  shore,  but 
they  had  not  gone  more  than  a  mile  before  Captain  Clarke  saw  Saca- 
jawea  (Caboneau's  wife)  who  was  ahead  with  her  husband,  begin  to 
dance  and  show  every  mark  of  the  most  extravagant  joy,  turning  round 
to  him  and  pointing  to  several  Indians,  whom  he  now  S!iw  advancing  on 
horseback,  sucking  her  fingers  at  the  same  time,  to  indicate  that  they 
were  of  her  native  tribe.  As  they  came  near  he  saw  Drewyer  among 
them,  dressed  like  an  Indian,  from  whom  he  learned  the  situation  of  the 
party.  While  the  boats  were  making  the  circuit  he  went  toward  the 
forks  with  the  Indians,  who  sang  aloud  as  they  went  along,  with  the 
greatest  appearance  of  delight.  They  soon  drew  near  the  camp,  and 
just  as  they  reached  it  a  woman  made  her  way  through  the  crowd,  to- 
ward Sacajawea,  and  recognizing  each  other  they  embraced  with  the 
most  tender  affection.  They  had  been  companions  in  childhood,  had 
been  taken  prisoners  in  the  same  battle,  and  shared  the  rigors  of  their 
captivity,  till  one  of  them  had  escaped  from  the  Minnctarees.  Captain 
Clarke  was  received  by  the  chief,  who,  after  embracing  him,  conducted 
him  to  a  tent  of  willows,  seated  him  on  a  white  robe,  and  tied  in  his  hair 
six  small  shifUs  resembling  pearls,  an  ornament  highly  valued  by  these 
people.  The  moccasins  of  the  whole  party  were  then  taken  off,  and 
after  much  ceremony  the  smoking  began.  When  the  conference  was 
opened,  Sacajawea  was  sent  for ;  she  came  into  the  tent,  sat  down,  and 
was  beginning  to  interpret,  when  in  the  person  of  Cameahwait  she  recog- 
nized her  brother.  She  instantly  jumped  up,  and  ran  and  embraced  him, 
thro  vviiig  over  him  a  blanket  and  weeping  profusely ;  the  chief  himself 
was  also  moved.  After  some  conversation  between  them  she  resumed 
her  seat  and  attempted  to  interpret  for  the  parties,  but  her  new  situation 
seemed  to  overpower  her,  and  she  was  frequently  interrupted  by  her 
tears.  After  the  council  was  finished,  the  unfortunate  woman  learned 
that  all  her  family  were  dead  except  two  brothers,  one  of  whom  was 
absent,  and  a  son  of  her  eldest  sister,  a  small  boy,  who  was  immediately 
adopted  by  her. 

When  the  canoes  arrived  the  baggage  was  taken  out  and  an  awning 
erected,  under  which  a  treaty  was  held.    Here  they  made  arrangements 


156 


TRAVELS   OP    LEWIS   AND    CLARKE. 


i 


with  the  Indians  for  horses  in  order  to  proceed  with  as  little  delay  as 
possible,  promisinpf  them  ample  remuneration  for  every  service  they 
should  render.  The  conference  having  ended  satisfactorily,  the  presents 
were  distributed.  To  Caraeahwait  they  gave  a  small  medal  with  the 
likeness  of  I^residcnt  Jefferson,  and  on  the  reverse  a  figure  of  hands 
clasped  with  a  pipe  and  tomahawk  ;  to  this  Avas  added  a  uniform  coat,  a 
shirt,  a  pair  of  scarlet  leggings,  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  and  some  small  arti- 
cles. Each  of  the  other  chiefs  received  a  small  medal  struck  during 
Washington's  administration,  a  shiit,  handkerchief,  leggings,  a  knife,  and 
some  tobacco.  Medals  were  also  given  to  two  young  warriors,  who  were 
promising  youths  and  very  much  respected  in  the  tribe.  These  honor- 
ary gifts  were  followed  by  presents  of  paint,  moccasins,  awls,  knives, 
beads,  and  looking-glasses.  A  plentiful  meal  of  Indian  com,  of  which 
the  hull  was  taken  off  by  being  boiled  in  lye,  was  also  distributed  ;  and 
as  it  Avas  the  first  they  had  ever  tasted,  they  were  very  much  pleased 
with  it.  They  had  indeed  abundant  sources  of  surjjriso  in  all  they  saw ; 
the  appearance  of  the  men,  their  arms,  their  clothing,  the  canoes,  the 
strange  looks  of  the  negro,  and  the  sagacity  of  the  dog ;  all  in  turn 
shared  their  admiration,  which  was  raised  to  astonishment  by  a  shot 
from  the  air-gun.  This  operation  was  instantly  considered  as  a  great 
medicine,  by  which  they,  as  Avell  as  the  other  Indians,  mean  somethmg 
emanating  directly  from  the  Great  Spirit,  or  produced  by  his  invisible 
and  incomprehensible  agency. 

Lewis  and  Clarke  next  consulted  as  to  their  future  operations.  The 
Indians  had  represented  that  the  river  below  them  was  rocky,  rapid,  and 
so  closely  confined  between  high  mountains,  that  it  Avas  impossible  to 
pass  doAvn  it,  cither  by  land  or  water,  to  the  great  lake.  It  was  there- 
fore agreed  that  Captain  Clarke  should  set  off  in  the  morning  with  eleven 
men,  go  by  the  Indian  camp,  and  leave  Chaboncau  and  his  wife  to  has- 
ten the  collection  of  horses,  then  lead  his  men  down  the  river,  and  if  he 
found  it  navigable  and  the  timber  in  sufficient  quantity,  begin  to  build 
canoes.  Before  setting  out  on  the  18th,  they  exposed  a  few  articles  to 
barter  for  horses,  and  soon  obtained  three  good  ones,  for  which  thej 
gave  some  clothing,  knives,  and  other  small  articles,  the  Tjjhole  of  which 
did  not  cost  more  than  tAventy  dollars.  A  fourth  was  purchased  by  the 
men  for  an  old  check  shirt,  a  pair  of  old  leggings,  and  a  knife.  Captain 
Clarke  arrived  at  the  camp  on  the  20th,  where  he  succeeded  in  engaging 
an  intelligent  old  man  as  a  guide.  After  pursuuig  his  route  for  a  few 
days  he  began  to  perceive  that  the  Indians  had  not  exaggerated.  Tlie 
mountains  were  rocky,  and  so  high  that  it  seemed  almost  impossible  to 
cross  them  with  horses ;  their  road  lay  over  the  sharp  fragments  of  rocks 
which  had  fallen  from  the  steep  cliffs,  and  were  strewed  in  heaps  for 
miles  together ;  yet  the  horses,  unshod,  traveled  across  them  as  fast  as 
the  men.  These  difficulties  increased  until  on  the  23d  he  reached  a  small 
meadow,  below  which  the  whole  current  of  the  river  beat  against  a  solid 
wall  of  rock  perfectly  inaccessible  to  horses.    Leaving  the  horses  and  the 


mmtHmm 


:e. 

as  little  delay  as 

rery  service  they 

orily,  the  presents 

1  medal  with  the 

I  figure  of  hauds 

a  uniform  coat,  a 

1  some  small  arti- 

dal  struck  during 

gings,  a  knife,  and 

arriors,  who  were 

be.    These  honor- 

isins,  awls,  knives, 

ian  corn,  of  which 

o  distributed ;  and 

^'ery  much  pleased 

ise  in  all  thoy  saw ; 

ig,  the  canoes,  the 

dog;  all  in  turn 

ishment  by  a  shot 

)nsidered  as  a  great 

is,  mean  something 

ced  by  his  invisible 

re  operations.  The 
ras  rocky,  rapid,  and 
t  was  impossible  to 
ake.  It  was  thero- 
naoming  with  eleven 
and  his  wife  to  has- 
the  river,  and  if  ho 
itity,  begin  to  build 
sed  a  few  articles  to 
)nes,  for  which  they 
,  the  Tihole  of  which 
:as  purchased  by  the 
nd  a  knife.  Captain 
cceeded  in  engaging 
r  his  route  for  a  few 
,  exaggerated.  Tlio 
almost  impossible  to 
•p  fragments  of  rocks 
strewed  in  heaps  for 
cross  them  as  fast  as 
td  he  reached  a  small 
r  beat  against  a  solid 
ig  the  horses  and  the 


DREWTER'S    ADVENTURE. 


157 


greater  part  of  the  men  here,  ho  proceeded  with  his  guide,  clambering 
over  iiniaense  rocks  and  along  the  sides  of  lofty  precipices  which  bor- 
dered the  river,  until  at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles  ho  reached  a  small 
meadow.  Thus  far  the  river  was  one  continued  rapid,  along  which  even 
the  empty  canoes  must  be  let  down  with  cords,  and  then  at  the  great 
risk  both  of  the  canoes  and  the  men,  while  the  transportation  of  the  bag- 
gage over  the  steep  mountains  would  have  to  bo  done  by  men.  Still 
Captain  Clarke  continued  his  route,  and  at  length  ascended  a  high  and 
steep  point  of  a  mountain,  from  which  the  guide  now  pointed  out  Avhore 
the  river  broke  through  the  mountains,  about  twenty  miles  distant.  The 
view  was  terminated  by  a  lofty  mountain,  which  was  perfectly  covered  with 
snow.  Toward  this  forraidablo  barrier  the  river  went  directly  on,  and 
there  it  was,  as  the  guide  observed,  that  the  difficulties  and  dangers,  of 
which  they  had  spoken,  commenced.  Captain  Clarke  was  now  con- 
vinced of  the  impracticability  of  this  route ;  he  therefore  hastened  to  re- 
turn, and  after  rejoining  his  men  next  evening  they  retraced  their  steps 
to  the  Indian  camp,  where  they  arrived  on  the  26th.  As  game  was 
scarce  in  this  region  they  found  a  precarious  subsistence,  and  suffered 
from  a  scarcity  of  food,  the  Indians  being  able  to  supply  them  with  littlo 
else  than  a  pittance  of  fish.  Theiefore,  while  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Cap- 
tain Lewis  and  his  party,  they  made  all  possible  preparations  for  their 
departure,  especially  in  preparing  pack-saddles  for  the  horses  which  Lewis 
had  purchased. 

Captain  Lewis  and  his  party,  who  were  left  with  the  Indians  at  the 
forks  of  the  Jefferson  on  the  18th,  spent  a  few  days  in  making  ready  to 
transport  the  baggage.  Saddles  were  made,  some  of  the  baggage  was 
buried,  the  boats  sunk  in  the  stream,  and  by  the  24th  all  the  prepara- 
tions were  made  for  their  departure.  Meanwhile  the  hunters  had  been 
out  as  usual,  but  the  game  was  so  scarce  that  they  were  obliged  to  en- 
croach on  their  stock  of  provisions.  One  night  Drewyer  returned  late 
with  a  fawn  and  a  quantity  of  Indian  plunder,  which  he  had  taken  by 
way  of  reprisal.  While  hunting  in  the  morning,  he  came  suddenly  upon 
an  Indian  camp,  at  which  were  an  old  man,  three  women,  a  young  man 
and  a  boy.  As  they  showed  no  surprise  he  rode  up  to  them,  and  turn- 
ing his  horse  Mose  to  graze,  sat  down  and  began  to  converse  M'ith  them 
by  signs.  They  had  just  finished  a  repast  of  some  roots,  and  in  a  littlo 
while  they  collected  their  hor^^s  and  began  to  saddle  them.  Drewyer, 
having  rested,  went  to  catch  his  horse,  forgetting  at  the  moment  to  take 
up  his  rifle.  He  had  scarcely  gone  more  than  fifty  paces  when  the  In- 
dians mounted  their  horses,  the  young  man  snatched  up  the  rifle,  and 
leaving  all  their  baggage  they  set  off  at  full  speed  toward  the  mountain 
passes.  Drewyer  instantly  pursued  them.  After  running  ten  miles,  the 
horses  of  the  women  began  to  give  out,  and  as  they  raised  dreadful  cries, 
the  young  man  slackened  his  pace,  and  began  to  ride  round  them.  Drew- 
yer persuaded  the  women  that  he  did  not  mean  to  hurt  them,  and  they 
stopped  ;  and  when  he  asked  the  young  man  for  bis  rifle,  the  only  part 


158 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


of  the  answer  ho  uiulerstood  w;**  "  Palikee,"  tl>o  name  by  ■which  they 
fjill  their  enemies,  tho  Minnctarccs.  While  they  were  thus  engaged  in 
talking,  Drcwyer  watched  his  opportunity,  and  seeing  the  Indian  off  his 
guard,  galloped  up  to  him  and  seized  his  rifle.  The  Indian  struggled  for 
some  time,  but  finding  Drewyer  too  strong  for  him,  had  the  pre..ence  of 
mind  to  open  tho  pan  and  let  tho  priming  fall  out ;  then  loosing  his  hold, 
he  gave  his  horse  the  whip  and  escaped  at  full  speed,  leaving  tho  women 
at  the  mercy  of  the  conqueror.  Drewyer  then  returned,  and  finding 
their  baggage,  brought  it  to  camp  with  him. 

From  some  Indians  who  ariived  they  purchased  three  horses,  by  giv- 
ing for  each  an  ax,  a  knife,  a  handkerchief,  and  a  little  paint.  For  a 
mule  they  were  obliged  to  add  a  second  knife,  a  shirt,  a  handkerchief, 
and  a  pair  of  leggings.  They  now  loaded  eleven  horses  and  a  mule, 
and  placing  the  rest  on  tho  shoulders  of  the  Indian  women,  lefl  thu 
camp  at  noon  on  the  24th.  Tliey  were  all  on  foot  except  Sacajawoa,  for 
whom  her  husband  had  purchased  a  horse.  An  Indian  had  the  polite- 
ness to  ofler  Captain  Lewis  one  of  his  horses  to  ride,  which  he  accepted, 
in  order  better  to  direct  tho  march  of  the  party.  On  the  morning  of 
the  20th  they  reached  the  fountain  of  the  Missouri  and  passed  over  tho 
dividing  ridge,  and  in  the  evening  arrived  at  the  encampment.  Here 
they  found  a  note  from  Captain  Clarke,  apprising  them  that  there  were 
no  liopes  of  a  passage  by  water,  and  suggestmg  the  route  by  the  north 
as  the  most  practicable.  Captain  Clarke  joined  them  on  the  29th,  and 
they  resumed  the  purchase  of  horses.  Tho  prices  had  risen  meanwhile, 
so  that  one  horse  cost  a  pistol,  one  hundred  balls,  some  powder,  and  a 
knife ;  another  was  changed  for  a  musket ;  and  in  this  way  they  obtained 
twenty-nine.  The  horses  were  young  and  vigorous,  but  poor,  and  worn 
with  tho  roughness  of  the  Shoshonee  saddle.  They  were  therefore  anx- 
ious to  obtain  one  at  least  for  each  man,  to  carry  the  baggage,  or  tho 
man  himself,  or  in  the  last  resource  to  serve  as  food ;  but  they  were 
unable  to  supply  all. 

On  the  30th  they  loaded  their  horses  and  took  leave  of  the  Shosho- 
nees,  accompanied  by  the  old  guide,  his  four  sons,  and  another  Indian. 
They  descended  the  river  by  the  road  which  Clarke  had  previously  pur- 
sued until  the  1st  of  Septcmberyi  when  they  turned  to  the  north-west 
across  tho  hills.  Next  day  the  Indians  all  lefl  them  except  the  guide, 
and  the  road  they  were  following  turned  eastward  toward  the  Missouri. 
They  had  therefore  to  cut  their  way  with  much  difficulty  up  the  west 
branch  of  the  creek  they  were  following.  The  road  led  over  the  steep 
and  rocky  side  of  tho  hills,  and  the  thickets  were  almost  impenetrable ; 
the  horses  frequently  fell  down  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  some  gave  out 
exhausted  with  fatigue.  On  the  4th  they  crossed  a  high  mountain,  which 
formed  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  the  creek  they  had  been 
ascending,  and  those  running  north  and  west.  Every  thing  was  frozen, 
and  the  ground  was  covered  with  snow,  which  had  fallen  the  night  be- 
fore.   They  presently  came  to  a  stream  flowing  westward,  which  they 


mmtmm 


IKE. 


HARDSHIPS    OF   THK    JOURNEY. 


159 


me  by  which  thoy 
re  tlius  engaged  in 
;  the  Indian  off  his 
ndion  struggled  for 
lad  the  i)re..ence  of 
en  loosing  his  hold, 
leaving  the  women 
turned,  and  finding 

hreo  horses,  by  giv- 
little  pauit.    For  a 
lirt,  a  handkerchief, 
liorses  and  a  mule, 
ian  women,  left  tho 
xcept  Sacajawea,  for 
lian  had  the  polite- 
,  which  he  accepted, 
On  the  morning  of 
and  passed  over  tho 
encampment.    Here 
hem  that  there  were 
B  route  by  the  north 
cm  on  the  29th,  and 
lad  risen  meanwhile, 
some  powder,  and  a 
liis  way  they  obtained 
I,  but  poor,  and  worn 
y  were  therefore  anx- 
the  baggage,  or  tho 
food  ;  but  they  were 

leave  of  the  Shosho- 
,  and  another  Indian. 
:e  had  previously  pur- 
ed  to  the  north-west 
;m  except  the  guide, 
.  toward  the  Missouri, 
difficulty  up  the  west 
ad  led  over  the  steep 
almost  impenetrable; 
Is,  and  some  gave  out 
liigh  mountain,  which 
le  creek  they  had  been 
rery  thing  was  frozen, 
d  fallen  the  night  be- 
yeatward,  which  they 


descended  to  its  junction  with  .1  river  from  tht*  east.  Hero  they  found 
a  large  encampment  of  Indians,  who  received  them  with  great  conlial- 
ity.  They  smoked  with  them,  remained  a  few  days,  exchanged  presents, 
and  trafficked  for  horses.  These  Indians  were  called  Ootlashoots,  and 
represented  themselves  as  one  band  of  the  Tushepaws,  a  numerous  peo- 
ple residing  on  the  head  waters  of  tho  Missouri  and  Columbiii  Rivers. 
They  seemed  kindly  and  friendly,  and  willingly  shared  the  berries  and 
fruits  which  formed  their  only  stock  of  provisions.  Their  only  wealth 
was  their  horses,  which  were  very  fine  and  so  numerous  that  this  party 
had  with  them  at  least  five  hundred.  To  this  river  they  gave  the  name 
of  Clarke,  as  they  had  that  of  Lewis  to  tho  one  they  had  lately  left, 
each  from  the  first  white  man  who  had  visited  its  waters.  Resimiing 
their  journey,  they  came  on  the  9th  to  a  large  stream  flowing  in  from 
the  west,  where  they  halted  a  day  to  make  observations  and  collect  pro- 
visions, as  they  were  here  to  leave  the  river,  and  the  mountain  region 
through  which  they  had  to  pass  was  without  game.  Next  day  one  of 
the  hunters  returned  with  throe  Indians  whom  he  had  met  up  the  creek, 
one  of  whom  they  persuaded  to  go  with  them.  They  ascended  the  course 
of  the  creek,  and  after  a  rugged  and  difficult  passage  over  the  mountain, 
came  on  the  14th  to  the  Kooskooskee  River.  Their  whole  stock  of  ani- 
mal food  being  exhausted,  they  killed  a  colt,  on  which  they  made  a  hearty 
supper,  and  from  this  incident  they  gave  the  name  of  Colt-killed  Creek 
to  a  stream  near  by.  They  then  left  tho  river  and  took  the  mountains 
on  the  right,  where  the  timber  was  fallen  and  the  ascent  so  steep  that 
they  had  to  wind  in  every  direction.  The  horses  frequently  slipped, 
and  one,  which  was  loaded  with  a  desk  and  small  trunk,  rolled  over  and 
over  for  forty  yards  till  his  fall  was  stopped  by  a  tree.  The  desk  was 
broken,  but  the  poor  animal  escaped  without  much  injury.  Provision 
was  also  very  scarce;  they  found  only  a  few  pheasants,  and  on  the 
17th  they  killed  another  colt.  This  want  of  provisions,  the  extreme 
fatigue  to  which  they  were  subjected,  and  the  dreary  prospect  before 
them,  began  to  dispirit  the  men ;  Captain  Clarke  therefore  set  out  with  six 
hunters  on  the  1 8th,  intending  to  go  on  ahead  and  find  something  for  the 
support  of  the  party.  The  region  they  passed  through  was  rugged  and 
barren  until  the  20th,  when  they  descended  the  last  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains and  reached  the  level  country.  They  had  proceeded  a  few  miles  on 
the  plain  when  they  saw  three  boys,  who  ran  and  hid  in  the'  grass.  Cap- 
tain Clarke,  leaving  his  horse  and  gun  with  the  men,  soon  relieved  tho 
apprehensions  of  the  boys,  and  sent  them  forward  to  the  village  with  pres- 
ents of  small  pieces  of  ribbon.  Presently  a  man  came  out  very  cau- 
tiously to  meet  the  party,  and  conducted  them  to  a  large  tent  in  the  vil- 
lage, where  all  the  inhabitants  gathered  round  to  view,  with  a  mixture 
of  fear  and  pleasure,  these  wonderful  strangers.  ITiis  spacious  tent  was 
the  residence  of  the  great  chief,  who  had  gone,  with  all  the  warriors,  to 
attack  some  of  their  enemies  to  the  south-west,  leaving  but  a  few  men  to 
guard  the  women  and  children.    Tliey  entertained  their  guests  with  a 


I   ^ 


•.M^ 


JM*i 


160 


TRAVELS    OP    LEWIS    AND    CLARKE. 


suniptiiouH  («>Ji8t ;  tho  latter  returned  the  kiiulneNH  hy  a  few  small  pres- 
ents,  ami  then  went  on  with  one  of  the  cliicrs  to  si  neoonil  village,  two 
miles  distant.    Here  tho  party  was  treated  with  great  kindness,  and  passed 

the  night. 

The  inhabitants  of  these  villages  called  themselves  Chopimnish,  or 
Piere«d-noso.  The  chief  drew  a  chart  of  tho  river,  and  explained  that 
a  greater  chief  than  himself,  who  governed  this  village,  and  was  called 
Twisted  Hair,  was  now  fishing  at  tho  distance  of  half,  a  day's  ride  down 
the  river.  Tho  hunters  not  being  ablo  to  kill  any  thing,  Captain  Clarke 
bought  as  much  dried  salmon,  roots,  and  berries  as  he  conld  obtain  with 
tho  few  articles  ho  chanced  to  have  in  his  pockets,  and  having  sent 
them  back  to  Captain  Lewis,  he  went  on  toward  the  camp  of  tho  Twist- 
ed Hair.  He  arrived  at  midnight,  and  giving  him  a  medal  they  smoked 
together  till  ono  o'clock.  Tho  chief  seemed  cheerful  and  sincere,  and 
on  the  next  day  he  accompanied  Captain  Clarke  back  to  tho  village 
where  they  arrived  at  sunset ;  they  then  walked  up  to  the  second  vil- 
lage where  tho  main  party  with  Captain  Lewis  had  just  arrived.  Next 
morning,  tho  23d,  the  chiefs  and  warriors  were  all  assembled,  and  Lewis 
and  Clarke  explained  to  them  whence  they  came,  the  objects  of  their 
visit,  and  their  pacific  intentions  toward  all  the  Lidians.  This  was  con- 
veyed by  signs,  but  seemed  to  give  perfect  satisfaction.  They  then 
gave  medals  and  additional  presents  to  the  chiefs,  and  delivered  a  flag 
and  handkerchief  for  tho  grand  chief  on  his  return.  They  purchased  a 
quantity  of  fish,  berries,  and  roots,  and  in  the  afternoon  went  on  to  tho 
second  village,  where  they  continued  their  purchases. 

On  the  24th,  they  sent  back  Colter  in  search  of  horses  lost  in  the 
mountains,  and  having  collected  the  rest,  set  out  for  the  river  by  the 
route  already  passed  by  Captain  Clarke.  They  now  felt  the  conse- 
quences of  eating  heartily  after  their  lato  privations:  many  of  them 
were  taken  very  ill ;  Captain  Lewis  could  scarcely  sit  on  his  horse,  while 
others  had  to  be  put  on  horseback,  and  some,  from  extreme  weakness 
and  pain,  were  forced  to  lie  down  by  the  road-side  for  some  time.-  At 
sunset  they  reached  the  island  where  they  had  first  met  the  Twisted 
Hair,  and  where  some  hunters  had  been  left  on  the  22d.  The  latter 
had  been  unsuccessful,  and  two  of  them  were  sick.  The  party  en- 
camped  on  an  island  a  little  below,  and  administered  to  the  sick. 


VOYAGE    DOWN    LEWIS    AND    COLUMBIA    RIVERS. 

Having  resolved  to  go  down  to  some  spot  suitable  for  building 
canoes,  they  set  out  early  on  the  26th,  and  encamped  five  miles  below, 
opposite  the  forks  of  the  river.  But  the  men  were  so  weak  that  several 
were  taken  siok  m  coming  down,  the  weather  being  oppressively  hot. 
Next  day  they  prepared  to  make  five  canoes;  but  few  of  the  men,  how- 
ever, were  able  to  work,  and  some  of  them  were  taken  ill.    The  hunt- 


KMMM 


MU'tn. 


ARKB. 

<H  l»y  a  few  Rmall  pres- 

!i  Hooontl  vilhif^o,  two 

it  kindness,  uiul  poosvcl 

iselves  Chopunnish,  or 
cr,  and  explained  that 
yriilagc,  and  was  called 
lalf.  a  day'H  ride  down 
thing,  Captain  Clarke 
s  ho  could  obtain  with 
sets,  and  having  sent 
ho  camp  of  the  Twist- 
i  a  medal  they  smoked 
eerful  and  sincere,  and 
[0  back  to  the  village 
up  to  the  second  vil- 
id  just  arrived.    Next 
I  assembled,  and  Lewis 
le,  the  objects  of  their 
ndians.    This  was  con- 
tisfaction.     They  then 
1,  and  delivered  a  flag 
m.    They  purchased  a 
temoon  went  on  to  tho 

iSCS. 

3h  of  horses  lost  in  the 
it  for  the  river  by  the 
y  now  felt  the  conse- 
ations:  many  of  them 
r  sit  on  his  horse,  while 
•om  extreme  weakness 
ide  for  some  time.-  At 
I  first  met  the  Twisted 
m  the  22d.  The  latter 
sick.  The  party  en- 
jrcd  to  the  dck. 


MBIA   RIVERS. 

suitable  for  building 
nped  five  miles  below, 
re  so  weak  that  several 
jeing  oppressively  hot. 
It  few  of  the  men,  how- 
taken  ill.    The  hunt- 


LEWI8    RIVKR  — INDIAN    BATHS. 


161 


crs,  too,  returned  without  any  game,  and  seriously  indisposed,  so  that 
nearly  the  whole  party  was  ill.  Colter  returned  with  one  of  the  horses 
and  brought  half  a  deer,  which  was  very  nourlshuig  to  the  invalids.  At 
length  those  first  attacked  began  to  recover,  and  all  who  were  able  to 
work  were  busied  at  the  canoes.  Meanwhile  it  became  nuccssary  to  dis- 
pose of  tho  horses.  They  were  therefore  collected  to  tho  number  of 
thirty-eight,  and  being  branded  and  marked,  were  delivered  to  three 
Indians,  tho  brothers  and  son  of  a  chief  who  was  going  with  them  down 
tho  river,  who,  having  each  received  a  knife  and  some  small  articles, 
agreed  to  take  good  care  of  the  horses  till  the  return  of  the  expedition. 
The  saddles  wore  buried  near  the  river,  and  with  thom  a  canister  of 
powder  and  a  bag  of  balls. 

On  Monday,  the  7th  of  October,  the  canoes  were  lanchcd  and 
loaded,  the  oars  fixed,  and  every  preparation  made  for  setting  out,  but 
when  all  was  ready,  the  two  chiefs  who  had  promised  to  accompany 
them  were  not  to  be  found,  and  at  the  same  time  they  missed  a  pi[)e- 
tomahawk.  They  therefore  proceeded  ■vinthout  them.  IJelow  the  forks 
tho  river  was  called  the  Kooskooskee ;  it  was  a  clear,  rajjid  stream,  with 
a  number  of  shoals  and  diflicult  places.  Tliey  passed,  in  tho  course  of 
the  day,  ten  rapids,  in  descending  which  one  of  the  canoes  struck  a  rock 
and  sprung  a  leak.  Next  day,  as  they  were  passuig  tho  last  of  fifteen 
rapids,  which  they  had  been  fortunate  enough  to  escape,  ono  of  the 
canoes  struck,  and  immediately  filled  and  sunk.  Tho  men,  several  of 
whom  could  not  swim,  clung  to  the  boat  till  a  canoe  could  bo  unloaded, 
when  with  the  assistance  of  an  Indian  boat  they  werb  all  brought,  to 
shore.  All  the  goods  were  so  wet  that  they  had  to  halt  for  the  night, 
and  spread  them  out  to  dry.  The  old  Shoshoneo  guide  with  his  son 
deserted  them  on  the  0th,  and  was  seen  running  up  the  river,  without 
having  given  notice  of  his  design,  or  even  received  his  pay.  Without 
serious  accident  they  passed  many  rapids  below  and  reached  the  junction 
of  the  Kooskooskee  with  the  Lewis,  on  the  evening  of  the  1 0th.  They 
stopped  for  breakfast  next  morning  at  a  large  encampment  of  Indians  a 
few  miles  below,  where  they  traded  for  a  stock  of  provisions.  While 
the  traffic  was  going  on,  they  observed  a  vapor  bath,  different  from 
those  they  had  previously  seen.  *'  It  was  a  hollow  square  six  or  eight 
feet  deep,  formed  m  the  river  bank,  and  completely  covered,  except  an 
opening  about  two  feet  wide  at  the  top.  The  bathers  descend  by  this 
hole,  taking  with  them  a  number  of  jugs  of  water ;  and,  after  being 
seated  around  the  room,  throw  the  water  on  the  stones  until  the  steam 
becomes  of  a  temperature  sufficiently  high  fo  •  their  purposes.  The 
baths  of  the  Indians  of  the  Kocky  Mountains  are  of  different  sizes,  the 
most  common  being  made  of  mud  and  sticks  like  an  oven,  but  the  mode 
of  raising  the  steam  is  exactly  the  same.  Among  both  these  nations  it 
is  very  uncommon  for  a  man  to  bathe  alone ;  he  is  generally  accom- 
panied by  one,  or  sometimes  by  several  of  his  acquaintances ;  indeed  it 
is  so  essentially  a  social  amusement  that  to  decline  going  in  to  bathe 

11 


162 


TRAVELS  OP  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


when  invited  by  a  friend  is  one  of  the  highest  indignities  that  can  bo 
offerc'd  him." 

In  Lewis  River  they  likewise  encountered  frequent  rapids,  which 
sometimes  injured  their  boats,  and  endangered  their  safety.  In  descend- 
ing one  of  these  a  boat  was  driven  crosswise  against  a  rock  in  the  middle 
of  the  current.  The  crow  attempted  to  get  her  oif,  but  the  waves 
dashed  over  her  and  she  soon  filled.  They  got  out  on  the  rock  and 
held  her  above  water,  with  great  exertion,  until  another  canoe  was  un- 
loaded and  sent  to  her  relief,  but  they  could  not  prevent  a  great  deal  of 
baggage  from  floating  do^vn  the  stream.  As  soon  as  she  was  lightened 
she  was  hurried  down  the  channel,  leaving  the  crew  on  the  rock.  They 
were  brought  off  by  the  rest  of  the  party,  and  the  canoe  itself  and 
nearly  all  that  had  been  washed  overboard,  was  recovered. 

On  the  16th  they  reached  the  Columbia,  and  halted  above  the  point 
of  junction  to  confer  with  the  Indians,  who  had  collected  in  great  num- 
bers to  receive  them.  A  chief  who  had  passed  them  on  horseback  a  few 
days  before,  and  who  appeared  to  bo  a  man  of  influence,  harangued  the 
Indians  on  the  occasion.  After  smoking  with  the  latter,  they  formed 
a  camp  and  had  the  fires  prepared,  "  when  a  chief  came  from  the  Indian 
camp,  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  up  the  Columb'a  River,  at  the  head 
of  nearly  two  hundred  men.  They  formed  a  regular  procession,  keeping 
time  to  the  noise,  rather  than  music,  of  their  drums,  which  they  accom- 
panied with  their  voices.  As  they  advanced  they  formed  a  semicircle 
around  us,  and  continued  singing  for  some  time.  We  then  smoked  with 
them  all,  and  communicated,  as  well  as  wo  could  by  sij^ns,  our  friendly 
intentions  toward  all  nations,  and  our  joy  at  finding  ourselves  surrounded 
by  our  children."  Medals  and  presents  were  then  distributed,  as  usual, 
to  the  chiefs.  "  After  they  had  dispersed,  we  proceeded  to  purchase 
provisions,  and  were  enabled  to  collect  seven  dogs,  to  which  some  of  the 
Indians  added  small  presents  of  fish,  and  one  of  them  gave  us  twenty 
pounds  of  fat  dried  horse-flesh."  Next  day  they  were  occupied  in  mak- 
ing the  necessary  observations  and  measuring  the  rivers.  Duriqg  this 
time,  the  principal  chief  came  down  with  several  of  his  warriors,  and 
smoked  with  the  party.  They  were  also  visited  by  several  men  and 
women  who  offered  dogs  and  fish  for  sale,  but  as  the  fish  was  out  of 
season,  they  contented  themselves  with  purchasing  all  the  dogs  they 
could  obtain. 

These  Indians  called  themselves  Sokulks.  In  their  language,  as  well 
as  in  dress  and  general  appearance,  they  resembled  the  Chopunnish  of 
the  Kooskooskee  and  Lewis  Rivers.  "  The  most  striking  difference  be- 
tween them  is  among  the  females,  the  Sokulk  women  being  more  inclined 
to  corpulency  than  any  we  have  yet  seen.  Their  stature  is  low,  their 
faces  broad,  and  their  heads  flattened  in  such  a  manner  that  the  fore- 
head is  in  a  straight  line  from  the  nose  to  the  crown  of  the  head. 
Their  eyes  are  of  a  dirty  sable ;  their  hair  is  coarse  and  black,  and 
braided  M'ithout  ornament  of  any  kind.     Instead  of  wearing,  aa  do  the 


mt 

W 

pi- 

th 

Cl( 

m: 

ha 

th 

thj 

or| 

1    H 

, I 


KE. 


CLARKE    SURPRISES    THE    INDIANS. 


163 


ignities  that  can  by 

iient  rapids,  which 
safety.  In  descend- 

rock  in  the  middle 
off,  but  the  waves    ' 
It  on  the  rock  and 
)ther  canoe  was  un- 
ent  a  great  deal  of 

she  was  lightened    ' 
on  the  rock.    They 
le  canoe  itself  and 
)vered. 

ted  above  the  point 
cctcd  in  great  num- 
1  on  horseback  a  few 
ence,  harangued  the 
I  latter,  they  formed 
irao  from  the  Indian 
I  River,  at  the  head 
r  procession,  keeping 
),  which  they  accom- 
formed  a  semicircle 
fG  then  smoked  with 
)y  siprns,  our  friendly 
ourselves  surrounded 
distributed,  as  usual, 
•oceeded  to  purchase 
to  which  some  of  the 
hem  gave  us  twenty 
rero  occupied  in  mak- 
rivers.    Duriijg  this 
I  of  his  warriors,  and 
I  by  several  men  and 
,3  tlic  fish  was  out  of 
mg  all  the  dogs  they 

;hcir  language,  as  well 
d  the  Chopunnish  of 
striking  difference  be- 
an being  more  inclined 
•  stature  is  low,  their 
manner  that  the  fore- 
3  crown  of  the  head, 
coarse  and  black,  and 
of  wearing,  as  do  the 


Chopunnish,  long  leathern  shirts,  highly  decorated  with  beads  .and  shells, 
the  Sokulk  females  have  no  other  covering  than  a  piece  of  leather 
drawn  around  the  hips." 

In  the  course  of  the  day  Captain  Clarke  ascended  the  Columbia  a  few 
miles  in  a  small  canoe.  Opposite  some  rapids,  five  miles  above,  he  found 
a  fishing-place,  consisting  of  three  mat-houses.  Here  were  great  quanti- 
ties of  salmon  drying  upon  scaffolds ;  and,  indeed,  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river  upward  he  saw  immense  numbers  of  dead  salmon  strewed  along 
the  shore  or  floating  on  the  surface  of  the  river,  whose  waters  were  so 
clear  that  the  salmon  could  be  seen  swimming  in  it  at  the  depth  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  The  Indians,  who  had  collected  on  the  banks  to 
view  him,  now  joined  him  in  eighteen  canoes  and  accompanied  him  up 
the  river. 

On  the  18th  a  numerous  council  was  held  with  Indians  who  came  in ; 
then,  having  completed  the  purposes  of  their  stay,  they  purchased  forty 
dogs  for  provisions  and  proceeded  down  the  river.  Coming  to  some 
dangerous  rapids  on  the  19th,  several  of  the  party  landed  to  lighten  the 
boats.  While  walking  ahead.  Captain  Clarke  ascended  a  cUff  about 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  water,  from  which  he  saw  that  the  country 
on  both  sides  of  the  river,  immediately  below  the  cliffs,  was  low,  and 
spread  itself  in  a  level  plain  to  a  great  distance  on  all  sides.  To  the 
west,  at  the  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  was  a  very 
high  mountain  covered  with  snow,  which,  from  its  direction  and  appear- 
ance, he  supposed  to  be  the  Mount  St.  Helen's  laid  down  by  Vancouver 
as  visible  from  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  Tliere  was  also  another 
mountain  of  a  conical  form,  whose  top  was  covered  with  snow,  in  a  south- 
west, direction.  As  Captain  Clarke  came  to  the  lower  end  of  the  rapid 
before  any  others,  except  one  of  the  small  canoes,  he  sat  down  on  a  rock 
to  wait  for  them,  and  seeing  a  crane  fly  across  the  river,  shot  it,  and  it 
fell  near  him.  Several  Indians  had  been  before  this  passing  on  the  op- 
posite side  toward  the  rapids,  and  some  few  who  passed  nearly  in  front 
of  him,  being  either  alarmed  at  his  appearance  or  the  report  of  the  gun, 
fled  to  their  houses.  Captain  Clarke  was  afraid  that  these  people  had 
not  yet  heard  that  the  white  men  were  coming,  and  therefore,  in  order 
to  allay  their  uneasiness  before  the  whole  party  should  arrive,  he  got 
into  the  small  canoe  with  three  men,  and  rowed  over  toward  the  houses. 
While  crossing,  he  shot  a  duck,  which  fell  into  the  water.  As  he  ap- 
proached, no  person  was  to  be  seen  except  th:ee  men  on  the  plains,  and 
they  too  fled  as  he  came  near  the  shore.  He  landed  before  five  houses 
close  to  each  other,  but  no  one  appeared,  and  the  doors,  which  were  of 
mat,  were  closed.  He  went  toward  one  of  them  with  a  pipe  in  his 
hand,  and  pushing  aside  the  mat,  entered  the  lodge,  where  he  found 
thirty-two  persons,  chiefly  men  and  women,  with  a  few  children,  all  in 
the  greatest  consternation ;  some  hanging  dowTi  their  heads,  others 
crying  and  wringing  their  hands.  He  went  up  to  them  all  and  shook 
hands  with  them  in  the  most  friendly  manner ;  but  their  apprehensions, 


164 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


which  liad  for  a  moment  subsided,  revived  on  his  taking  out  a  bum- 
ing-gloHH,  as  there  M-as  no  roof  to  the  house,  and  lighting  his  pipe.  He 
then  oflered  it  to  several  of  the  men,  and  distributed  among  the  women 
and  children  a  few  small  trinkets  which  he  carried  about  with  him,  and 
gradually  restored  some  tranquillity  among  them.  He  then  left  this 
house,  and  directing  each  of  the  men  to  go  into  a  house,  went  himself 
into  a  second.  Here  he  found  the  inhabitants  more  terrified  than  those 
he  had  first  seen,  but  he  succeeded  in  pacifying  them,  and  then  visited 
the  other  houses,  where  the  men  had  been  equally  successful. 

After  leaving  the  houses  he  went  out  to  sit  on  a  rock,  and  beckoned 
to  some  of  the  men  to  como  and  smoke  with  him ;  but  none  of  them 
ventured  to  join  him  till  the  canoes  arrived  with  the  two  chiefi,  who  im- 
mediately explained  to  them  the  pacific  intentions  of  the  strangers.  Soon 
afterward  the  interpreter's  wife  landed,  and  her  presence  dissipated  all 
doubts,  since  in  that  country  no  woman  ever  accompanies  a  war-party ; 
they  therefore  all  came  out  and  seemed  perfectly  reconciled.  They  told 
the  two  chiefs  that  they  knew  the  strangers  were  not  men,  for  they  had 
seen  them  fall  from  the  clouds.  In  fact,  unperceived  by  them.  Captain 
Clarke  had  shot  the  white  crane,  which  they  had  seen  fall  just  before  he 
appeared  to  their  eyes.  The  duck  which  he  had  killed  also  fell  close  by 
him,  and  as  there  were  a  few  clouds  flying  over  at  the  moment,  they 
connected  the  fall  of  the  birds  with  his  sudden  appearance,  and  believed 
that  he  had  himself  dropped  from  the  clouds ;  the  noise  of  the  rifle,  which 
they  had  never  heard  before,  being  considered  merely  as  a  sound  to  an- 
nounce so  extraordinary  an  event.  This  belief  was  strengthened  when 
on  entering  the  room  he  brought  down  fire  from  the  heavens  by  means 
of  his  burning-glass.  They  were  soon  satisfactorily  convinced  that  the 
strangers  were  only  mortals,  and  after  one  of  the  chiefs  had  explained 
their  history  and  objects,  they  all  smoked  together  in  great  harmony. 

On  the  22d  they  came  to  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Columbia,  at  the 
head  of  which  they  unloaded  all  the  canoes  and  took  the  baggage  over 
by  land  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids.  In  this  transportation  they  were 
greatly  assisted  by  the  Indians  living  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  who  car- 
ried some  of  the  heavy  articles  on  their  horses.  For  their  services,  how- 
ever, they  repaid  themselves  so  adroitlr  that  the  travelers  had  to  secure 
the  camp  against  their  pilfering.  Next  day  they  brought  down  their 
canoes  by  the  plan  adopted  by  the  Indians.  Crossing  the  river,  they 
hauled  them  over  a  point  of  land  on  the  south  side,  so  as  to  avoid  a  per- 
pendicular fall  of  twenty  feet.  At  the  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
they  reached  the  water  and  embarked.  Having  thus  descended  for  a 
mile,  they  reached  a  pitch  of  the  river,  which,  divided  by  two  large  rocks, 
descends  with  great  rapidity  down  a  fall  of  eight  feet.  As  the  boats 
could  not  be  navigated  down  this  steep  descent,  they  were  obliged  to 
land  and  let  them  down  as  slowly  as  possible  by  strong  ropes  of  elk-skin. 
They  all  passed  in  safety  except  one,  which  being  loosed  by  the  breaking 
of  the  ropes,  was  swept  down,  but  was  recovered  by  the  Indians  below. 


m 


:e.  I 

I 

king  out  a  burn- 
ig  his  pipe.  He 
mong  the  women 
out  with  him,  and 
le  then  left  this 
use,  went  himself 
irrified  than  those 
and  then  visited 
icessful. 

3ck,  and  beckoned 

but  none  of  them 

wo  chiefe,  who  im- 

e  strangers.    Soon 

ence  dissipated  all 

)anie8  a  war-party ; 

mciled.    They  told 

;  men,  for  they  had 

i  by  them,  Capt^n 

i  fall  just  before  he 

ed  also  fell  close  by 

the  moment,  they 

,rance,  and  believed 

se  of  the  rifle,  which 

sly  as  a  sound  to  an- 

strengthened  when 

10  heavens  by  means 

'  convinced  that  the 

!hiefs  had  explained 

in  great  harmony. 

ihe  Columbia,  at  the 

ok  the  baggage  over 

iportation  they  were 

)f  the  river,  who  car- 

r  their  services,  how- 

ivelers  had  to  secure 

•  brought  down  their 

jsing  the  river,  they 

so  as  to  avoid  a  per- 

'  a  quarter  of  a  mile 

thus  descended  for  a 

i  by  two  large  rocks, 

;  feet.    As  the  boats 

they  were  obliged  to 

ong  ropes  of  elk-skin. 

losed  by  the  breaking 

ay  the  Indians  below. 


THE   FALLS   OF    THE    COLUMBIA. 


165 


They  were  visited  that  day  by  a  great  number  of  Indians,  both  from 
above  and  below  the  falls,  and  toward  evening  they  were  informed  by 
one  of  the  chiefs  who  accompanied  them,  that  he  had  overheard  that  the 
Indians  below  intended  to  attack  the  party  as  it  passed  down  the  river. 
Being  always  ready  for  any  attempt  of  that  sort,  they  only  re-examined 
their  arms  and  increased  the  ammimition  to  one  hundred  rounds.  The 
chiefs,  however,  were  not  so  much  at  ease,  and  when  at  night  they  saw 
the  Indians  depart  earlier  than  usual,  they  were  very  much  alarmed. 
Next  morning  the  Indians  approached  with  apparent  caution,  and  be- 
haved with  more  than  usual  reserve.  The  two  chiefs,  by  whom  these 
circumstances  were  not  unobserved,  now  expressed  their  wish  to  return 
home,  saying  that  they  could  no  longer  be  of  any  service,  and  that  they 
could  not  understand  the  language  of  the  people  below  the  Falls ;  that 
the  two  tribes  had  been  at  war  with  each  other,  and  the  Indians  would 
certainly  kill  them.  "  We  endeavored  to  quiet  their  fears,  and  requested 
them  to  stay  two  nights  longer.  In  which  time  we  would  see  the  Indians 
below  and  make  a  peace  between  the  two  nations.  They  replied  that 
they  were  anxious  to  return  and  see  their  horses ;  we  insisted  on  their 
remaining  with  us,  not  only  in  hopes  of  bringing  about  an  accommoda- 
tion between  them  and  their  enemies,  but  because  they  might  be  able  to 
detect  any  hostile  designs  against  us,  and  also  assist  us  in  passing  the 
next  falls,  which  are  not  far  off,  and  represented  as  very  difficult.  They 
at  length  consented  to  stay  two  nights  longer." 

Three  miles  below,  the  river  widens  into  a  large  basin,  at  the  extremity 
of  which  a  high  black  rock,  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  right  shore, 
seemed  to  nm  wholly  across  the  river.  So  totally  did  it  appear  to  stop 
the  passage,  that  as  they  approached  they  could  not  see  where  the  river 
escaped,  except  that  the  current  was  drawn  with  more  than  usual  veloc- 
ity to  the  left  of  the  rock,  where  there  was  a  great  roaring.  Climbing 
the  rock,  they  saw  that  the  whole  river  swept  through  a  channel  of 
forty-five  yards  wide,  in  which  the  water  was  thrown  into  whirls,  and 
swelled  and  boiled  in  every  part  with  the  wildest  agitation.  But  as  it 
was  impossible  to  carry  the  boats  over  this  high  rock,  and  as  the  chief 
danger  was  not  from  rocks,  but  from  great  waves  and  whirlpools,  they 
resolved  to  try  the  passage  in  the  boats.  With  great  care  they  passed 
safely  through,  much  to  the  astonishment  of  the  Indians  who  had  col- 
lected on  the  top  of  the  rock  to  see  them.  This  narrow  passage  contin- 
ued for  half  a  mile,  when  the  river  again  enlarged  to  the  width  of  two 
hundred  yards.  Presently  they  came  to  other  rapids,  which  looked  so 
unpromising  that  they  unloaded  the  most  valuable  articles  and  sent  them 
down  by  land,  with  all  the  men  who  could  not  swim.  They  descended 
in  safety,  and  encamped  in  the  evening,  two  miles  below,  near  an  Indian 
village  at  the  second  falls.  The  inhabitants  received  them  with  great 
kindness,  visits  were  exchanged,  and  an  apparent  reconciliation  was  ef^ 
fected  between  them  and  the  two  ohie&  who  accompanied  the  expedi< 
tion. 


166 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


.It 

i 

I 


The  Indians  represented  t)ie  narrows  as  most  dangerous ;  but  as  the 
portage  of  the  large  canoes  was  impracticable,  they  sent  some  of  the 
party  forward  next  morning  with  the  best  stores,  fixed  others  on  the 
rocks  to  assist  with  ropes  the  canoes  that  might  meet  with  any  difficulty, 
and  began  the  descent,  in  the  presence  of  great  numbers  of  Indians, 
who  had  collected  to  witness  the  exploit.  The  channel  for  three  miles 
was  M'orn  through  a  hard,  rough  black  rock  from  fifty  to  a  hundred 
yards  wide,  in  which  the  water  swells  and  boils  in  a  tremendous  manner. 
At  half  a  mile  they  got  through  the  worst  without  serious  accident,  then 
reloading  the  canoes  they  passed  down  the  remainder  of  the  channel 
very  well,  except  that  one  of  the  boats  was  nearly  lost  by  striking  against 
a  rock.  The  Indians  designate  these  falls  by  the  word  Timm,  which 
they  pronounce  so  as  to  make  it  represent  the  sound  of  a  distant  catar- 
act.  Below  the  channel  they  landed  to  smoke  with  a  chief  whom  they 
saw,  Avho  had  been  absent  when  they  passed  his  village  ab  ">ve.  He  was 
a  bold-looking  man,  of  pleasing  appearance,  about  fifty  yea»'s  of  age,  and 
dressed  in  a  war-jacket,  a  cap,  loggings,  and  moccasins.  They  presented 
him  with  a  medal  and  other  small  articles,  and  he  gave  them  some  meat, 
of  which  he  had  but  little ;  for  on  his  route  he  had  had  a  battle  with  a 
■war  party  of  the  Towahnahiooks.  Here  they  met  with  their  old  chiefs, 
who  had  walked  on  to  the  village  below,  to  smoke  a  pipe  of  friendship 
on  the  renewal  of  peace.  These  chiefs  had  each  brought  a  horse,  intend- 
ing to  go  home,  and  now  the  travelers  smoked  a  parting  pipe  with  their 
two  faithful  friends,  who  had  accompanied  them  from  the  head  of  the 
river. 

They  encamped  that  evening,  the  25th,  on  a  high  rock,  where  they 
remained  two  days  to  make  observations,  to  dry  their  wet  cargoes,  and 
to  hold  conferences  with  the  Indians.  Six  men  were  sent  out  to  collect 
rosin  to  pitch  the  canoes,  which,  by  being  frequently  hauled  over  rocks, 
had  become  leaky.  Many  Indians  came ;  some,  from  hunting  excursions, 
brought  presents  of  deer's  flesh  and  small  v/hite  cakes  made  of  roots. 
Lewis  and  Clarke  bestowed  the  usual  medals  and  presents,  and  being 
anxious  to  insure  a  friendly  reception  on  their  return,  treated  them  with 
great  kindness.  These  attentions  were  not  lost  on  the  Indians,  who 
appeared  well  pleased  with  them.  At  night  a  fire  was  made  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  camp,  and  as  the  Indians  sat  round  it,  the  men  danced  to  the 
music  of  the  violin,  which  so  delighted  them  that  several  resolved  to 
remain  all  night ;  the  rest  crossed  the  river.  Having  dried  their  goods 
they  set  out  on  the  28th,  and  on  the  day  following  stopped  at  the  resi- 
dence of  the  principal  chief  of  the  Chilluckittequaw  nation,  who  inhab- 
ited this  region.  He  proved  to  be  the  same  with  whom  the  two  chiefs 
had  made  peace  at  the  village  above.  After  the  exchange  of  presents 
the  chief  showed  them  some  curiosities,  and  then  directed  his  wife  to 
hand  him  his  medicine-bag,  from  which  he  brought  out  fourteen  fore- 
fingers, which  he  said  had  once  belonged  to  the  same  number  of  his 
enemies,  whom  he  had  killed  in  fighting  with  the  nations  to  the  south- 


-erous ;  but  as  the 

sent  some  of  the 

ced  others  on  the 

with  any  difficulty, 

imbere  of  Indians, 

lel  for  three  miles 

fifty  to  a  hundred 

■emendouB  manner. 

rious  accident,  then 

ler  of  the  channel 

by  striking  against 

word  Timm,  which 

il  of  a  distant  catar- 

a  chief  whom  they 

ge  ab  -"ve.    He  was 

ty  yeai-s  of  age,  and 

19.    They  presented 

ve  them  some  meat, 

I  had  a  battle  with  a 

nrith  their  old  chiefs, 

a  pipe  of  friendship 

ught  a  horse,  intend- 

rting  pipe  with  their 

om  the  head  of  the 

gh  rock,  where  they 
leir  wet  cargoes,  and 
re  sent  out  to  collect 
ly  hauled  over  rocks, 
m  hunting  excursions, 
cakes  made  of  roots, 
d  presents,  and  being 
rn,  treated  them  with 
on  the  Indians,  who 
was  made  in  the  mid- 
he  men  danced  to  the 
it  several  resolved  to 
ing  dried  their  goods 
jg  stopped  at  the  resi- 
aw  nation,  who  inhab- 
whom  the  two  chiefs 
exchange  of  presents 
1  directed  his  wife  to 
rht  out  fourteen  fore- 
s  same  number  of  his. 
nations  to  the  south- 


FIRST    VIEW    OF    THE   PACIFIC. 


167 


east.  This  bag  was  about  two  feet  in  length,  contauiing  roots,  pounded 
dirt,  etc.,  which  the  Indians  only  know  how  to  appreciate.  It  is  sus- 
pended in  the  middle  of  the  lodge,  and  it  is  supposed  to  be  a  species  of 
sacrilege  to  be  touched  by  any  but  the  owner.  It  is  an  object  of  relig- 
ious fear,  and  it  is,  from  its  sanctity,  the  safest  place  to  deposit  their 
medals  and  more  valuable  articles. 

By  the  last  of  October  they  reached  the  Lower  Falls  of  the  Columbia, 
where  they  held  a  conference  with  the  Indians  who  came  in  from  a 
neighboring  village,  and  then  made  preparations  for  a  portage  on  the 
1st  of  November.  They  then  carried  their  small  canoe  and  all  the 
baggage  across  the  slippery  rocks  to  the  foot  of  the  shoot,  after  which 
the  four  large  canoes  were  brought  down  by  slipping  them  along  poles, 
placed  from  one  rock  to  another,  and  in  some  places  by  partially  using 
streams  that  escaped  alongside  the  river.  Three  of  them,  however,  were 
so  injured  that  the  men  were  obliged  to  stop  at  the  end  of  the  shoot  to 
repair  them.  A  mile  and  a  half  below,  they  passed  another  bad  rapid, 
and  so  difficult  was  the  navigation  of  this  day,  that  when  they  encamped 
for  the  night  they  had  made  but  seven  miles  from  the  head  of  the  shoot. 
In  the  morning  they  found  it  necessary  to  unload  once  more,  and  send 
the  baggage,  with  those  who  could  not  swim,  around  a  dangerous  rapid. 
This  was  the  last  descent  of  the  Columbia ;  below  it  they  came  to  tide- 
water, and  the  river  began  to  grow  wide. 

In  passing  along  they  frequently  met  Indians  ascending  the  river  in 
canoes ;  some  of  these  canoes  bore  the  figure  of  a  bear  in  the  bow,  and 
that  of  a  man  in  the  stern,  both  made  of  painted  wood  and  nearly  as 
large  as  life.  They  also  held  continual  intercourse  with  the  natives  on 
the  shore,  who  were  usually  kind  and  friendly,  but  occasionally  mani- 
fested a  disposition  to  pilfer.  They  encountered  much  rainy  weather  in 
the  lower  stages  of  their  journey^  so  that  their  clothing  was  continually 
wet,  and  the  baggage  much  injured.  On  the  7th,  they  stopped  to  pur- 
chase some  food  and  beaver  skins  at  a  village  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
high  hills  on  the  right,  behind  two  small  islands.  "  Opposite  to  these 
islands  the  hills  on  the  left  retire,  and  the  river  widens  into  a  kind  of 
bay  crowded  with  islands.  We  had  not  gone  far  from  this  village  when 
the  fog  cleared  off,  and  we  enjoyed  the  delightful  prospect  of  the  ocean: 
that  ocean,  the  object  of  all  our  labors,  the  reward  of  all  our  anxieties. 
This  cheering  view  exhilarated  the  spirits  of  all  the  party,  who  were 
still  more  delighted  on  hearing  the  distant  roar  of  the  breakers."  They 
went  on  with  great  cheerfulness,  but  the  shore  was  so  bold  and  rocky  on 
the  right  that  they  could  find  no  spot  fit  for  an  encampment,  and  after 
having  gone  thirty-four  miles  during  the  day,  they  spread  their  mats  on 
the  ground  and  passed  the  night  in  the  rain.  It  rained  in  the  morning ; 
having  changed  their  wet  clothing  of  the  day  before,  they  set  forward 
at  a  late  hour,  but  when  they  had  reached  a  point  eight  miles  in  ad- 
vance, the  waves  ran  so  higli,  and  dashed  the  canoes  about  so  much  that 
several  of  the  men  became  sea-sick,  and  they  were  compelled  to  land. 


I 


,.„-,>  ■>.i^'!^t>ii!aty;-j^'<ai;:.--*.^sr-P--^-:.-..t^-^  g 


168 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


w 


The  situation  was  extremely  uncomfortable,  the  high  hills  jutted  in  so 
closely  that  there  was  not  room  to  lie  level,  nor  to  secure  their  baggage 
free  from  the  tide,  but  the  waves  were  increasing  at  every  moment  so 
much  that  they  could  not  move  from  the  spot  in  safety.  They  therefore 
fixed  themselves  on  the  beach  left  by  the  ebb-tide,  and  having  raised  the 
baggage  on  poles,  spent  a  disagreeable  night.  It  rained  the  whole  of 
the  next  day ;  the  tide  set  in,  accompanied  by  a  high  wind  from  the 
south,  which  shifted  and  blew  almost  a  gale  from  the  sea.  The  im- 
mense waves  now  broke  over  the  place  where  they  were  encamped,  and 
the  large  trees,  some  of  them  five  or  six  feet  thick,  which  had  lodged  at 
the  point,  were  drifted  over  their  camp,  and  the  utmost  vigilance  of 
every  man  could  scarcely  save  the  canoes  from  being  crushed  to  pieces. 
They  remained  in  the  water,  and  drenched  with  rain  durmg  the  rest  of 
the  day ;  their  only  food  being  some  dried  fib'j,  and  some  rain-water, 
which  they  caught.  Yet,  though  wet  and  cold,  and  some  of  them  sick 
from  using  the  salt-water,  the  men  were  still  cheerftil  and  full  of  anxiety 
to  see  more  of  the  ocean. 

On  tho  10th  they  were  enabled  to  proceed,  but  at  the  distance  of 
ten  miles  the  wind  arose,  and  tho  heavy  sea  forced  them  to  seek  a  place 
of  safety.  They  made  another  attempt  when  the  tide  fell,  but  were 
obliged  to  put  to  shore  a  mile  below.  They  encamped  on  some  drift- 
logs,  M  ith  the  hills  rising  steep  above  their  heads  to  the  height  of  five 
hundred  feet.  Every  thing  was  thoroughly  wet  with  the  rain,  which 
did  not  cease  during  the  night,  in  the  course  of  which  the  tide  reached 
tho  logs,  and  set  them  afloat.  Next  day  the  wind  was  still  high,  and 
drove  the  Avavcs  against  the  shore  with  great  fury ;  the  rain,  too,  fell  in 
torrents,  and  not  only  drenched  them  to  the  skin,  but  loosened  the  stones 
on  the  hill-sides,  which  then  came  rolling  down  upon  them.  In  this 
comfortless  situation  they  remained  all  day,  with  nothing  but  dried  fish 
to  satisfy  their  hunger ;  tho  canoes  in  one  place  at  the  mercy  of  the 
waves ;  the  baggage  in  another ;  and  all  the  men  scattered  on  floating 
logs,  or  sheltering  themselves  in  the  crevices  of  the  rocks,  and  hill-sides. 
At  three  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  12th,  a  tremendous  gale  of  wind 
arose  accompanied  with  lightning,  thunder,  and  hail.  In  a  few  hours  it 
abated,  but  a  violent  rain  soon  began,  and  lasted  all  day.  Their  situa- 
tion now  became  much  more  dangerous,  for  the  waves  were  driven  with 
fury  against  the  rocks  and  trees  which  till  now  had  aflbrded  them  a 
refuge ;  they  therefore  took  advantage  of  the  low  tide  and  moved  half 
a  mile  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  brook  which  had  been  hidden  by  the 
bushes  and  drift-wood.  Here  they  were  safer,  if  not  more  comfortable. 
On  the  1 4th,  three  men  were  sent  to  try  if  they  could  double  the  point 
and  find  some  safer  harbor.  One  of  them  returned  next  day  with  in- 
formation that  at  no  great  distance  there  was  a  beautiful  sand-beach, 
and  a  good  harbor.  Captain  Lewis  then  set  out  to  examine  more  mi- 
nutely the  lower  part  of  the  bay.  On  the  15th  the  weather  was  fair,  and 
enabled  them  to  dry  their  bedding  and  examine  their  baggage.    The 


EE. 


THE   MOUTH   OF  THE   COLUMBIA. 


169 


hills  jutted  in  so 

re  their  baggage 

every  moment  so 

They  therefore 

having  raised  the 

led  the  whole  of 

Igh  wind  from  the 

the  sea.    The  im- 

ere  encamped,  and 

ich  had  lodged  at 

tmost  vigilance  of 

crushed  to  pieces. 

during  the  rest  of 

d  some  rain-water, 

some  of  them  sick 

land  full  of  anxiety 

t  at  the  distance  of 
hem  to  seek  a  place 

tide  fell,  but  were 
nped  on  some  drift- 
)  the  height  of  five 
nth  the  rain,  which 
ich  the  tide  reached 

was  still  high,  and 

the  rain,  too,  fell  in 
t  loosened  the  stones 
upon  them.  In  this 
othing  but  dried  fish 
It  the  mercy  of  the 
scattered  on  floating 

rocks,  and  hill-sides, 
lendous  gale  of  wind 
1.  In  a  few  hours  it 
all  day.  Their  situa- 
ves  were  driven  with 
had  afforded  them  a 
tide  and  moved  half 
been  hidden  by  the 
ot  more  comfortable, 
aid  double  the  point 
ed  next  day  with  in- 
beautiful  sand-beach, 
to  examine  more  mi- 
weather  was  fair,  and 
their  baggage.    The 


rain,  which  had  continued  for  the  last  ten  days  without  an  inter^'al  of 
more  than  two  hours,  had  completely  wet  all  their  merchandise,  and 
spoiled  some  of  their  fish,  destroyed  the  robes,  and  rotted  nearly  one 
half  of  their  few  remaining  articles  of  clothing,  particularly  the  leather 
dresses.  About  three  o'clock  the  wind  fell,  and  they  instantly  loaded 
the  canoes,  and  left  the  miserable  spot  to  which  they  had  been  confined 
the  last  six  days. 

At  the  sand-beach  below,  they  met  Shannon,  who  had  been  sent  back 
by  Captain  Lewis  to  meet  them.  The  day  Shannon  had  set  out  in  his 
canoe,  he  and  his  comrade  went  on  till  they  met  a  party  of  twelve  In- 
dians, who,  having  never  heard  of  the  expedition,  did  not  know  where 
they  came  from ;  they,  however,  behaved  with  so  much  civility,  and 
seemed  so  anxious  that  the  men  should  go  with  them  toward  the  sea, 
that  their  suspicions  were  excited,  and  they  declined  going  on.  The 
Indians,  however,  would  not  leave  them,  and  the  men  being  confirmed 
in  their  suspicions,  and  fearful  that  if  they  went  into  the  woods  to  sleep, 
they  would  be  cut  to  pieces  in  the  night,  thought  it  best  to  remain 
in  the  midst  of  the  Indians;  they  therefore  made  a  fire,  and  after 
talking  with  them  to  a  late  hour,  lay  down  with  their  rifles  under  their 
heads.  On  awaking  in  the  morning  they  found  the  Indians  had  stolen 
and  hidden  their  guns.  Having  demanded  them  in  vain.  Shannon  seized 
a  club  and  was  about  assaulting  one  of  the  Indians  whom  he  suspected 
of  being  the  thief,  when  another  Indian  began  to  load  a  fowling-piece 
with  the  intention  of  shooting  him.  He  therefore  stopped,  and  explained 
by  signs  that  if  they  did  not  give  up  the  guns,  a  large  party  would 
come  down  the  river  before  the  sun  rose  to  such  a  height,  and  put 
every  one  of  them  to  death.  Fortunately  Captdn  Lewis  and  his  party 
appeared  at  this  time  and  the  terrified  Indians  immediately  brought 
the  guns. 


"WINTBE   ON   THE   PACIFIC  COAST. 

"  Saturday.^  November  16. — ^The  morning  was  clear  and  beautiful. 
We  therefore  put  out  all  our  baggage  to  dry,  and  sent  several  of  the 
party  to  hunt.  Our  camp  is  in  Ml  view  of  the  ocean,  on  the  bay  laid 
down  by  Vancouver,  which  was  distinguished  by  the  name  of  Haley's 
Bay,  from  a  trader  who  visits  the  Indians  here,  and  is  a  great  fiivorite 
among  them.'»  Captain  Lewis  returned  on  the  1 7th,  after  having  coasted 
down  Haley's  Bay  to  Cape  Disappointment,  and  some  distance  to  the 
north  along  the  sea-coast.  He  was  followed  by  several  Chinnooks, 
among  whom  were  the  principal  chief  and  his  family.  "They  made  us 
a  present  of  a  boiled  root,  very  much  like  the  common  liquorice  in  taste 
and  size,  called  cuhohamo;  in  return,  we  gave  double  the  value  of  their 
present,  and  now  learned  the  danger  of  accepting  any  thing  from  them, 
smce  no  return,  even  if  ten  times  the  value  of  their  gift,  can  satisfy 


^se^s^saggas^y.^:'.-'  r--i  affl-j«v^<in:;K.: 


170 


TRAVELS    OF   LEWIS   AND    CLARKE. 


them."  Captain  Clarke  afterward  traveled  by  land  around  the  coast, 
and  climbed  Cape  Disappointment.  This  is  a  circular  knob,  rising,  with 
a  steep  ascent,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  water,  and  connected 
to  the  main  land  by  a  neck  of  low  ground,  two  or  three  hundred  yards 
wide. 

lie  retunied  to  the  camp  on  the  20t.h,  and  found  a  number  of  Chin- 
nooks,  with  whom  they  held  a  council.  Next  day  they  were  visited  by 
various  bands  of  the  neighborhood,  and  a  chief  from  the  Grand  Rapids, 
with  whom  they  exchanged  articles  of  trade.  After  these  Indians  were 
gone  they  Avere  surprised  at  a  visit  of  a  different  kind :  "  An  old  woman, 
the  wife  of  a  Chinnook  chief,  came  with  six  young  women,  her  daught- 
ers and  nieces,  and  having  deliberately  encamped  near  us,  proceeded  to 
cultivate  an  intimacy  between  our  men  and  her  fair  wards." 

Having  examined  the  coast,  it  became  necessary  to  decide  on  the  spot 
for  tlieir  Avintor  quarters.  As  they  would  have  to  rely  chiefly  on  their 
arms  for  subsistence,  they  Avere  guided  in  their  choice  by  the  abundance 
of  game  Avhich  any  particular  place  might  offer.  The  Indians  said  the 
country  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay  was  better  supplied  Avith  elk, 
an  animal  larger  and  more  easily  killed  than  the  deer,  the  latter  being 
most  numerous  at  some  distance  up  the  river.  The  climate  hero  was 
milder  than  above  the  first  range  of  mountains ;  the  Indians  went  thinly 
clad,  and  said  they  had  but  little  snow.  The  weather  had  indeed  been 
very  warm  since  their  arrival,  sometimes  disagreeably  bo  ;  and  dressed, 
as  they  Avere,  altogether  in  leather,  the  cold  would  be  very  unpleasant, 
if  not  injurious.  The  neighborhood  of  the  sea  was  further  recommended 
by  the  facility  of  supplying  themselves  with  salt,  and  the  hope  of  meet- 
ing some  of  the  trading  vessels,  which  might  be  expected  in  about  three 
months,  and  from  which  they  might  secure  a  fresh  supply  of  trinkets 
for  their  route  homeward.  These  considerations  induced  them  to  visit 
the  opposite  side  of  the  bay ;  and  if  there  was  an  appearance  of  much 
game,  to  establish  themselves  there  during  the  winter.  Accordingly,  on 
the  25th  they  left  their  place  of  encampment,  but  the  wind  being  too 
high  they  kept  along  near  the  shore  toward  their  former  camp,  and  on 
the  following  day  crossed  over  to  the  south  side  of  the  Columbia.  After 
going  a  few  miles  along  the  shore  they  entered  a  channel  which  separates 
the  main  land  from  a  large,  low  island,  and  stopped  at  a  village  of  the 
Cathlamah  tribe.  Here  they  procured  some  elk  meat,  and  after  dining 
on  fresh  fish  and  roots,  which  they  bought  at  an  enormous  price,  they 
coasted  along  the  river  toward  the  south.  On  the  27th  they  encamped 
on  a  pebbly  beach,  connecting  with  the  main  land  a  remarkable  peninsular 
knob,  Avhich  they  called  Point  William.  For  a  week  past  the  weather  had 
been  almost  incessantly  wet,  and  it  had  rained  hard  the  whole  of  this 
day ;  "  it  continued  all  night,  and  in  the  morning  began  more  violently, 
attended  Avith  a  high  wind  from  the  south-west.  It  was  now  impossible 
to  proceed  on  so  rough  a  sea.  We  therefore  sent  several  men  to  hunt, 
and  the  rest  of  us  remained  during  the  day  in  a  situation  the  most  cheer- 


■  ■  I  i»»ila»aiii- 


:e. 

l"OHnd  the  coast, 

pnob,  rising,  with 

pr,  and  connected 

hundred  yards 

number  of  Chin- 
were  visited  by 
e  Grand  Rapids, 
lese  Indians  were 
I"  An  old  woman, 
imen,  her  daught- 
us,  proceeded  to 
irds." 

lecide  on  the  spot 
ly  chiefly  on  their 
•y  the  abundance 
Indians  said  the 
luppliedwith  elk, 
\  the  latter  being 
climate  hero  was 
idians  went  thinly 
[r  had  indeed  been 
so;  and  dressed, 
[e  very  unpleasant, 
"her  recommended 
the  hope  of  meet- 
ted  in  about  three 
supply  of  trinkets 
uced  them  to  visit 
pearance  of  much 
Accordingly,  on 
)  wind  being  too 
mer  camp,  and  on 
Columbia.    After 
el  which  separates 
It  a  village  of  the 
and  after  dining 
mous  price,  they 
h  they  encamped 
trkable  peninsular 
t  the  weather  had 
he  whole  of  this 
n  more  violently, 
8  now  impossible 
ral  men  to  hunt, 
the  most  cheer- 


THBT  ENCAUP  FOR  THE  WINTER. 


171 


less  and  uncomfortable.  On  this  little  neck  of  land  we  were  exposed, 
with  a  miserable  covering  which  did  not  deserve  the  name  of  shelter,  to 
the  violence  of  the  winds ;  all  our  bedding  and  stores,  as  well  as  our 
bodies,  were  completely  wet,  our  clothes  rotting  with  constant  exposure, 
and  no  food  except  the  dried  fish  brought  from  the  Falls,  to  which  M'O 
were  again  reduced.  The  hunters  all  returned  hungry  and  drenched 
with  rain,  having  seen  neither  deer  nor  elk,  and  the  swan  and  brant  too 
shy  to  be  approached.  At  noon  the  wind  shifted  to  the  north-west  and 
blew  with  such  tremendous  fury  that  many  trees  were  blown  do^vn 
near  us." 

The  disagreeable  diet  of  pounded  fish  and  salt  water  occasioned  so 
much  sickness  among  the  men  that  it  became  absolutely  necessary  to 
vary  it.  Captain  Lewis  took  a  canoe  on  the  20th,  and  went  down  the 
bay  M'ith  five  men,  to  hunt  elk,  and  other  parties  went  out  by  land.  On 
the  3d  of  December  an  elk  was  brought  into  camp,  the  first  they  had 
killed  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  after  their  meager  tare  it  formed 
a  most  nourishing  food.  In  the  afternoon  of  the  6th  they  were  rejoiced 
at  the  return  of  Captain  Lewis,  for  whose  safety  they  had  begun  to  bo 
very  uneasy.  He  came  in  a  canoe  Avith  three  of  his  men,  the  other  two 
being  left  to  guard  six  elk  and  five  deer  which  they  had  killed.  Ho  had 
examined  the  coast,  .and  found  a  river  a,  short  distance  below,  on  which 
they  might  encamp  during  the  winter,  with  a  sufliciency  of  elk  for  their 
subsistence  M'ithin  reach.  This  information  was  very  satisfactory,  and 
they  decided  on  going  thither  as  soon  as  they  could  move  from  the  point. 
This  they  were  enabled  to  do  on  the  7th,  although  the  tide  was  against 
them  and  the  waves  still  very  high.  On  reaching  the  south  side  of 
Meriwether's  Bay,  which  they  named  from  Captain  Le^vis,  they  ascended 
the  river  Netul  for  three  miles,  to  the  first  point  of  highland  on  its 
western  bank,  and  formed  their  camp  in  a  thick  grove  of  lofty  pines, 
about  two  hundred  yards  from  the  water,  and  thirty  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  high  tides.  Tiiis  seemed  the  most  eligible  spot  for  their  winter 
establishment.  In  order,  therefore,  to  find  a  place  for  making  salt,  and 
to  examine  the  country  further,  Captain  Clarke  set  out  with  five  men, 
taking  a  south-western  course  through  thick  pine  forests  and  much 
swampy  land,  toward  the  sea.  For  shelter  the  first  night  they  stretched 
the  skin  of  an  elk  they  had  killed,  but  rose  in  the  morning  perfectly  wet 
with  the  rain.  Proceeding  westward,  they  had  much  difiiculty  in  mak- 
ing their  way  over  streams  and  swamps,  and  at  length  met  with  three 
Indians,  who  invited  them  to  their  village  on  the  sea-coast.  They  went 
thither,  and  Captain  Clarke  was  received  with  much  attention.  As  soon 
as  he  entered,  clean  mats  were  spread,  and  fish,  berries,  and  roots  set 
before  him  on  small,  neat  platters  of  rushes.  After  he  had  eaten,  the 
men  of  the  other  houses  came  and  smoked  with  him.  They  all  appeared 
much  neater  in  their  persons  and  diet  than  Indians  generally  are,  and 
frequently  washed  their  hands  and  faces,  a  ceremony  by  no  means  fre- 
quent elsewhere. 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 

As  the  captain  was  walking  on  the  shore  next  day,  one  of  the  Indians 
asked  him  to  shoot  a  duck  about  thirty  steps  distant.  He  did  so,  and 
having  accidentally  shot  off  its  head,  the  bird  was  brought  to  the  village 
by  the  Indians,  all  of  whom  came  round  in  astonishment.  They  exam- 
ined the  duck,  the  musket,  and  the  very  small  bullet,  and  then  exclaimed : 
"  Clouch  musket^  toake,  commatax  mutkeP*  ("  A  good  musket,  do  not 
understand  this  kind  of  musket").  They  now  placed  before  him  their 
best  roots,  fish,  and  syrup,  after  which  he  made  a  few  purchases  and  re- 
turned to  the  camp  through  a  heavy  rain.  The  whole  party  had  been 
occupied  during  his  absence  in  cutting  down  trees  to  make  huts,  and  in 
hunting. 

On  the  11th  of  December  Captain  Clarke  says:  "The  rain  continued 
last  night  and  the  whole  of  this  day.  We  were,  however,  all  employed 
in  putting  up  our  winter  cabins,  which  we  are  anxious  to  finish,  as  sev- 
eral of  the  men  are  beginning  to  suffer  from  the  excessive  dampness; 
four  of  them  have  violent  colds,  one  has  a  dysentery,  another  has  tumors 
on  his  legs,  and  two  have  been  injured  by  dislocation  and  strdning  their 
limbs."  The  work  went  on  notwithstanding  the  rain,  and  by  the  14th 
they  had  finished  the  walls  of  the  huts  and  completed  a  house  for  pro- 
visions. The  constant  rains  had  spoiled  their  last  supply  of  elk,  but  the 
sick  were  recovering,  although  scarcely  a  man  had  been  dry  for  a  great 
many  days.  The  hunters  were  so  fortimate  ad  to  kill  eighteen  elk,  and 
on  the  15th  Captain  Clarke  set  out  with  sixteen  men,  who  were  dis- 
patched for  the  game  in  small  parties,  each  man  returning  with  the  quar- 
ter of  an  animal.  In  bringing  the  third  and  last  load,  nearly  half  the 
men  missed  their  way  and  did  not  return  till  after  night,  and  five  did  not 
find  their  way  till  next  morning.  The  rain  had  poured  down  upon  them 
all  night,  as  it  had  upon  their  comrades  in  the  camp,  but  in  addition  to 
this  they  had  been  without  fire,  and  drenched  and  cold  as  they  were, 
they  presented  a  most  distressing  sight  when  they  came  in.  At  length 
the  building  was  completed,  and  they  moved  into  their  huts  on  the  24th. 
Meanwhile,  however,  their  stock  of  meat  was  completely  spoiled  by 'the 
incessant  rains,  and  pounded  fish  became  again  their  chief  dependence. 

"  Wednesdaj/,  25.  "We  were  awaked  at  daylight  by  a  discharge  of 
fire-arms,  which  was  followed  by  a  song  from  the  men,  as  a  compliment 
to  us  on  the  return  of  Christmas,  which  we  have  always  been  accustomed 
to  observe  as  a  day  of  rejoicing.  After  breakfast  we  divided  our  re- 
maining stock  of  tobacco,  which  amounted  to  twelve  carrots,  into  two 
parts,  one  of  which  we  distributed  among  such  of  the  party  as  made  use 
of  it,  making  a  present  of  a  handkerchief  to  the  others.  The  remainder 
of  the  day  was  passed  in  good  spirits,  though  there  was  nothing  in  our 
situation  to  excite  much  gayety.  The  rain  confined  us  to  the  house, 
and  our  only  luxuries  in  honor  of  the  season,  were  some  poor  elk,  so 
much  spoiled  that  we  ate  it  through  mere  necessity,  a  few  roots,  and 
some  spoiled  pounded  fish." 

December  30.     "  We  enjoyed  the  fiiirest  and  most  pleasant  weather 


EBIWKB 


jono  of  tho  Indians 
He  did  so,  and 
[ght  to  the  village 
unt.    They  exam- 
Id  then  exclaimed : 
musket,  do  not 
before  him  their 
Ipurchascs  and  re- 
party  had  been 
lake  huts,  and  in 

>e  rain  continued 
ver,  all  employed 
I  to  finish,  as  sev- 
essive  dampness; 
lother  has  tumors 
nd  straining  their 
and  by  the  14th 
1  a  house  for  pro- 
»ly  of  elk,  but  the 
en  dry  for  a  great 
eighteen  elk,  and 
en,  who  were  dis- 
ing  with  the  quar- 
id,  nearly  half  the 
It,  and  five  did  not 
i  down  upon  them 
Kit  in  addition  to 
)ld  as  they  were, 
le  in.    At  length 
•  huts  on  the  24th. 
ly  spoiled  by 'the 
lief  dependence. 
by  a  discharge  of 
,  as  a  compliment 
been  accustomed 
divided  our  re- 
carrots,  into  two 
arty  as  made  use 
The  remainder 
I  nothing  in  our 
IS  to  the  house, 
me  poor  elk,  so 
a  few  roots,  and 

)leasant  weather 


THE    SALT    CAMP. 


178 


since  our  arrival ;  tho  sun  having  shono  at  intervals,  and  there  boiiig 
only  three  showers  in  the  course  of  tho  day.  By  sunset  wo  had  com- 
plctcd  tho  fortification,  and  now  announced  to  the  Indians  that  every 
day,  at  that  hour,  tho  gates  would  be  closed,  and  they  must  leave  the 
fort,  and  not  enter  it  till  sunrise.  Tho  Wahkiacums,  who  had  remain<Hl 
with  us,  and  who  are  very  forward  in  their  deportment,  complied  Acry 
reluctantly  with  this  order ;  but  being  excluded  from  our  houses,  fonncd 
a  camp  near  us." 

"  Wednesday,  January  1,  1806. — ^We  were  awaked  at  an  early  hojir 
by  a  discharge  of  a  volley  of  small  arms,  to  salute  the  New  Year.  This 
is  the  only  mode  of  doing  honor  to  the  day  which  our  situation  permits, 
for  though  wo  have  reason  to  be  gayer  than  we  were  at  Christmas,  our  only 
dainties  arc  tho  boiled  elk  and  Wappatoo  roots,  enlivened  by  draughts 
of  pure  water."  One  day  a  neighboring  chief^  with  a  party  of  Clatsops, 
brought  for  sale,  besides  roots  and  berries,  three  dogs  and  some  flesh 
blubber.  "  Having  been  so  long  accustomed  to  live  on  tho  flesh  of 
dogs,  the  greater  part  of  us  have  acquired  a  fondness  for  it,  and  our 
original  aversion  for  it  is  overcome,  by  reflecting  that  while  we  sub- 
sisted on  that  food  we  were  fatter,  stronger,  and  in  general  enjoyed  bet. 
tcr  health  than  at  any  period  since  leaving  tho  buffalo  country  eastward 
of  the  mountains."  The  blubber  had  been  obtained  from  the  Killa- 
mucks,  a  neighboring  nation  on  tho  sea-coast  to  the  south,  near  one  of 
whose  villages  a  whale  had  recently  been  stranded. 

Two  of  tho  men  who  had  been  dispatched  to  make  salt,  returned  on 
the  15th.  They  had  carefully  examined  the  coast,  but  it  was  not  until 
the  fifth  day  after  their  departure  that  they  discovered  a  convenient  sit- 
uation for  its  manufacture.  At  length  they  formed  an  establishment 
about  fifteen  miles  south-west  of  the  fort,  near  some  scattered  houses  of 
the  Clatsop  and  lOllamuck  nations,  where  they  had  erected  a  comforta- 
ble camp  and  had  killed  a  stock  of  provisions.  The  Indians  had  treated 
them  very  kindly,  and  made  them  a  present  of  the  blubber  of  the  Avhale, 
some  of  which  the  men  brought  home.  The  appearance  of  the  whale 
seemed  to  be  a  matter  of  importance  to  all  the  neighboring  Indians,  and 
in  the  hope  of  procuring  some  of  it,  a  parcel  of  merchandise  was  pre- 
pared, and  a  party  of  men  held  in  readiness  to  set  out  from  the  fort  in 
the  morning.  As  soon  as  this  resolution  was  known,  Chaboneau  and  his 
wife  requested  that  they  might  be  permitted  to  accompany  the  party. 
The  poor  woman  stated  very  earnestly  that  she  had  traveled  a  great  way 
with  them  to  see  the  great  water,  yet  she  had  never  been  down  to  the 
coast,  and  now  that  this  monstrous  fish  was  also  to  be  seen,  it  seemed 
hard  that  she  should  not  be  permitted  to  see  either  the  ocean  or  the  whale. 
So  reasonable  a  request  could  not  be  denied ;  they  were  therefore  suf- 
fered to  accompany  Captain  Clarke. 

Having  reached  the  salt-makers'  camp,  "  we  persuaded  a  young  In- 
dian, by  a  present  of  a  file  and  a  promise  of  some  other  articles,  to  guide 
us  to  the  spot  where  the  whale  lay.    He  led  us  for  two  and  a  half  miles 


r 


174 


TRAVELS  OP  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


over  tilts  round  Hlippcry  stoncH  nt  the  foot  of  n  high  hill  projoptiiig  into 
the  NCI,  and  thon  Huddcnly  stopping,  explained  by  Higtm  that  wo  must 
crosH  the  inountuin.  This  promised  to  be  a  most  laborious  undertaking, 
for  the  side  is  nearly  perpendicular  and  the  top  lost  in  clouds.  lie,  how- 
over,  followed  an  Indian  path  which  wound  along  as  much  as  possible, 
but  still  the  ascent  was  so  steep  that  at  one  place  wo  drew  ourselves  for 
altout  a  hundred  feet  by  means  of  bushes  and  roots.  At  length,  after 
two  hours'  labor,  we  reached  the  top  of  the  mountain,  where  we  looked 
down  with  astonishment  on  the  prodigious  height  of  ten  or  twelve  hun- 
dred feet  which  we  had  ascended.  "Wo  proceeded  by  a  bad  road  till 
night,  when  we  encamped  on  a  small  run :  we  wore  all  much  fatigued, 
but  the  weather  was  pleasant,  and  for  the  first  time  since  our  arrival 
here  an  entire  day  has  passed  without  rain.  On  the  8th  we  set  out  early 
and  proceeded  to  the  top  of  the  mountain,  the  highest  point  of  which  is 
an  open  spot  facing  the  ocean.  It  is  situated  about  thirty  miles  south- 
cast  of  Cape  Disappointment,  and  projects  nearly  two  and  a  half  miles  into 
tlie  sea.  Here  one  of  the  most  delightfid  views  in  nature  presents  itself. 
Immediately  in  front  is  the  ocean,  which  breaks  with  fury  on  the  coast, 
from  the  rocks  of  Capo  Disappointment,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  discern,  to 
the  north-west,  and  against  the  high  lands  and  irregular  piles  of  rock 
whicli  diversify  the  shore  to  the  south-east.  To  this  boisterous  sccno 
the  Cohimbia,  M-ith  its  tributary  waters,  widening  into  bays  as  it  ap- 
jjro.iches  the  ocean,  and  studded  on  both  sides  with  the  Chimook  and 
Cbtsop  villages,  forms  a  charming  contrast ;  while  immediately  beneath 
our  feet  are  stretched  the  rich  prairies,  enlivened  by  three  beautiful 
streams,  which  conduct  the  eyo  to  small  lakes  at  the  foot  of  the  hills. 
We  stopped  to  enjoy  the  romantic  viev/  from  this  place,  which  we  dis- 
tinguished by  the  name  of  Clarke's  Point  of  View,  and  then  followed  our 
guide  dovm  the  mountain." 

The  whale  had  been  placed  between  two  Killamuck  villages,  and 
nothing  more  remained  than  the  skeleton,  which  they  found  to  be  one 
hundred  and  five  feet  in  length.  The  natives  were  all  busied  in  boiling 
the  blubber  and  preserving  the  oil.  These  they  parted  with  reluctantly, 
and  at  such  high  prices  that  <!Japtain  Clarke's  whole  stock  of  merchandise 
was  exhausted  in  the  purchase  of  three  hundred  pounds  of  blubber  and 
a  few  gallons  of  oil.  With  these  he  set  out  to  return,  and  encamped  on 
the  other  side  of  the  creek,  which  he  called  Ecola,  or  Whale  Creek. 
Here  they  were  joined  by  the  men  of  the  village,  who  gave  all  the  infor- 
mation they  possessed  relative  to  their  country.  While  smoking  with 
the  Indians,  Captain  Clarke  was  surprised  about  ten  o'clock  by  a  loud 
shrill  outcry  from  the  opposite  village ;  on  hearing  which  all  the  Indians 
started  up  to  cross  the  creek,  and  the  guide  informed  him  that  some  one 
had  been  killed.  On  examination,  one  of  the  men  was  found  to  be  ab- 
sent, and  a  guard  dispatched,  who  met  him  crossing  the  creek  in  great 
haste.  An  Indian  belonging  to  another  band,  who  happened  to  be  with 
the  Killamucks  that  evening,  had  treated  him  with  much  kindness,  and 


tlKE. 

hill  projecting  into 
ign»  that  wo  must 
orious  undertaking, 
1  clouds.     lie,  how- 
i  much  ns  possible, 
)  drew  ourselves  for 
.     At  length,  after 
n,  where  we  looked 
■  ton  or  twelve  hun- 
hy  a  bad  road  till 
all  much  fatigued, 
le  since  our  arrival 
Bth  wo  set  out  early 
st  point  of  which  is 
thirty  miles  south- 
and  a  half  miles  into 
iturc  presents  itself, 
h  fury  on  the  coast, 
J  eye  can  discern,  to 
egular  piles  of  rock 
his  boisterous  scene 
into  bays  as  it  ap- 
th  the  Chimook  and 
mmediately  beneath 
I  by  three  beautiful 
he  foot  of  the  hills, 
place,  which  we  dis- 
id  then  followed  our 

amuck  villages,  and 
;hey  found  to  be  one 

all  busied  in  boiling 
ted  with  reluctantly, 
stock  of  merchandise 
ands  of  blubber  and 
rn,  and  encamped  on 
a,  or  Whale  Creek, 
ho  gave  all  the  infor- 
While  smoking  with 
en  o'clock  by  a  loud 
ivhich  all  the  Indians 
d  him  that  some  one 
I  was  found  to  be  ab- 
g  the  creek  in  great 
happened  to  be  with 

much  kindness,  and 


S^^^" 


^y^^^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1 

—    II  '-"^     1  '■* 

< 

6"     

► 

A-^ 


»' 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/iCMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


jfe^- 


Canadian  institute  for  Historical  MIcroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


PREPARATIONS    FOR    RETURN. 


175 


walked  arm  in  arm  with  him  to  a  tent  where  he  found  a  Chinnook  squaw 
who  was  an  old  acquaintance.  From  the  conversation  and  manner  of 
the  stranger,  this  woman  discovered  that  his  object  was  to  murder  the 
white  man  for  the  sake  of  the  few  articles  on  his  person ;  and  when  he 
rose  and  pressed  the  man  to  go  to  another  tent,  where  they  would  find 
something  better  to  eat,  she  held  M'Neal  by  the  blanket.  Not  knowing 
her  object,  he  freed  himself  from  her,  and  was  going  on  with  his  pre- 
tended friend,  when  she  ran  out  and  gave  the  shriek  which  brought  the 
men  of  the  village  over.  The  stranger  escaped  before  M'Neal  knew 
what  had  occasioned  the  alarm. 

"  The  month  of  February  and  the  greater  part  of  March  was  passed 
in  the  same  manner.  Every  day,  parties  as  large  as  we  could  spare 
them  from  our  other  occupations,  were  sent  out  to  hunt,  i;nd  we  v/crc 
thus  enabled  to  command  some  days'  provision  in  advance.  It  consisted 
chiefly  of  deer  and  elk ;  the  first  is  very  lean,  and  the  flesh  by  no  means 
as  good  as  that  of  the  elk,  which  is  our  chief  dependence."  In  March 
the  elk  became  scarce  and  lean,  and  they  made  use  of  fish  whenever 
they  could  catch  them,  or  purchase  them  from  the  Indians ;  but  as  they 
were  too  poor  to  indulge  very  largely  in  these  luxuries,  their  diet  was 
by  no  means  pleasant,  and  to  the  sick,  especially,  was  unwholesome. 
During  the  greater  part  of  this  month,  five  or  six  of  the  men  were  sick, 
the  general  complaint  being  a  bad  cold  and  fever,  something  like  an 
influenza. 

THE    RETURN   JOURNEY. 

"  Many  reasons  had  determined  us  to  remain  at  Fort  Clatsop  till  the 
1st  of  April.  Besides  the  want  of  fuel  on  the  Columbian  plains,  and  the 
impracticability  of  passing  the  mountains  before  the  beginning  of  June, 
we  were  anxious  to  see  some  of  the  foreign  traders,  from  whom,  by  means 
of  our  ample  letters  of  credit,  we  might  have  recruited  our  exhausted 
stores  of  merchandise.  About  the  middle  of  March,  however,  wo  be- 
came seriously  alarmed  for  the  want  of  food ;  the  elk,  our  chief  depend- 
ence, had  at  length  deserted  their  usual  haunts  in  our  neighborliood, 
and  retreated  to  the  mountmns.  We  were  too  poor  to  purchase  other 
food  from  the  Indians,  so  that  we  were  sometimes  reduced,  notwith- 
standing all  the  exertions  of  our  hunters,  to  a  single  day's  provisions  in 
advance.  The  men,  too,  whom  the  constant  rains  and  confinement  had 
rendered  unhealthy,  might,  we  hoped,  be  benefited  by  leaving  the  coast 
and  resuming  the  exercise  of  traveling.  We  therefore  determined  to 
leave  Fort  Clatsop,  ascend  the  river  slowly,  consume  the  month  of  March 
in  the  woody  country  where  we  hope  to  find  subsistence,  and  in  this 
way  reach  the  plains  about  the  Ist  of  April,  before  which  time  it  will  be 
impossible  to  attempt  crossing  them :  for  this  purpose  we  began  our  pre- 
parations. During  the  winter  we  had  been  very  industrious  in  dressing 
skins,  so  that  we  had  now  a  suflicient  quantity  of  clothing,  besides  be- 


If* 


>*? 


k^' 


176 


TRAVELS    OF    LEWIS   AND    CLARKE. 


twoen  three  and  four  hundred  pair  of  moccasins.  But  the  whole  stock 
of  -oods  on  which  we  are  to  depend,  either  for  the  purchase  of  horses 
or  of  food,  during  the  long  tour  of  nearly  four  thousand  miles,  is  so  much 
diminished  that  it  might  aU  he  tied  in  two  handkerchiefs  We  have  in 
fact,  nothing  but  six  blue  robes,  one  of  scarlet,  a  coat  and  hat  of  United 
States  artiUery  uniform,  five  robes  made  of  our  large  flag,  and  a  few  old 
clothes  trimmed  with  ribbon.  Our  chief  dependence,  therefore,  must  be 
on  our  guns,  which,  fortunately  for  us,  are  aU  in  good  order,  as  we  had 
taken  the  precaution  of  bringing  a  number  of  extra  locks,  and  one  of 
ova-  men  proved  to  be  an  exceUent  artist  in  that  way.  The  powder  had 
been  secured  in  leaden  canisters,  and  though  on  many  occasions  they 
had  been  under  water,  it  remained  perfectly  dry,  and  we  now  found  our-  , 
selves  in  possession  of  one  hundred  and  forty  pounds  of  powder,  and  ^ 
twice  that  quantity  of  lead,  a  stock  quite  sufficient  for  the  route  home-    : 

ward.  ,  , ,  ,     . 

"After  much  trafficking,  we  at  last  succeeded  in  purchasmg  a  canoe 
for  a  uniform  coat  and  half  a  carrot  of  tobacco,  and  took  a  canoe  from 
the  Clatsops  as  a  reprisal  for  some  elk  they  had  stolen  from  us  m  the 
winter.  We  were  now  ready  to  leave  Fort  Clatsop,  but  the  ram  prevented 
us  for  several  days  from  calking  the  canoes,  and  we  were  forced  to  wait 
for  calm  weather  before  we  could  attempt  to  pass  Point  William.   In  the 
mean  time  we  were  visited  by  many  of  our  neighbors,  for  the  purpose 
of  fikintr  leave  of  us.    The  Clatsop  Comowool  has  been  the  most  kind 
and  hospitable  of  all  the  Indians  in  this  quarter ;  we  therefore  gave  him 
a  certificate  of  the  kindness  and  attention  which  we  have  received  from 
him  and  added  a  more  substantial  proof  of  our  gratitude,  the  gift  of  all 
our  houses  and  ftimiture.    To  the  Chinnook  chief,  Delashelwit,  we  gave 
a  certificate  of  the  same  kind.    We  also  circulated  among  the  natives 
several  papers,  one  of  which  we  also  posted  up  in  the  fort,  to  the  follow- 
ing effect :  ■..         «  •  -i 
» '  The  object  of  this  last  is,  that  through  the  medium  of  some  civil- 
ized person,  who  may  see  the  same,  it  maybe  made  known  to  the  world, 
that  the  party  consisting  of  the  persons  whose  names  are  hereunto  an- 
nexed, and  who  were  sent  out  by  the  government  of  the  United  States 
to  explore  the  interior  of  the  continent  of  North  America,  did  penetrate 
the  same  by  the  way  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  Rivers,  to  the  dis- 
charge  of  the  latter  into  the  Pacific  Ocean,  where  they  arrived  on  the 
14th  day  of  November,  1806,  and  departed  the  23d  day  of  March,  1806, 
on  their  return  to  the  United  States,  by  the  same  route  by  which  they 

had  come  out.'  ,     ,  ,       j    * 

"  Sunday,  March  23d,  1806,  the  canoea  were  loaded,  and  at  one 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  took  a  final  leave  of  Fort  Clatsop.  The  wind 
was  still  high,  but  the  alternative  of  remaining  without  provisions  was 
so  unpleasant  that  we  hoped  to  be  able  to  double  Point  William."  Hav- 
ing  passed  the  point  in  safety,  they  proceeded  up  the  river  without  any 
hinderance  until  the  1st  of  April,  when  they  learned  from  some  Indians 


,EE. 

it  the  whole  stock 
)urcha8e  of  horses 
d  miles,  is  so  much 
liefe.    "We  have,  in 
and  hat  of  United 
flag,  and  a  few  old 
therefore,  must  be 
>d  order,  as  we  had 
a  locks,  and  one  of 
The  powder  had 
lany  occasions  they 
we  now  found  our- 
ids  of  powder,  and 
or  the  route  home- 
purchasing  a  canoe 
took  a  canoe  from 
>ien  from  us  in  the 
It  the  rain  prevented 
were  forced  to  wait 
int  William.   In  the 
)ors,  for  the  purpose 
been  the  most  kind 
:  therefore  gave  him 
!  have  received  from 
titude,  the  gift  of  all 
Delashelwit,  we  gave 
d  among  the  natives 
le  fort,  to  the  follow- 

edium  of  some  civil- 
known  to  the  world, 
les  are  hereunto  an- 
rf  the  United  States 
nerica,  did  penetrate 
a  Rivers,  to  the  dis- 
they  arrived  on  the 
[day  of  March,  1806, 
route  by  which  they 

loaded,  and  at  one 
t  Clatsop.  The  wind 
thout  provisions  was 
oint  William."  Hav- 
;he  river  without  any 
3d  from  some  Indians 


CAPTAIN    CLARKK'S   SORCERY. 


177 


descending  the  river  that  there  was  a  great  scarcity  of  provisions  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Great  Rapids.  They  accordingly  decided  to  re- 
main at  their  present  encampment,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Quicksand 
River,  until  they  had  collected  meat  enough  to  last  them  to  the  Choppun- 
nish  nation,  with  whom  they  had  left  their  horses.  Parties  were  accord- 
ingly se.it  out  to  hunt,  and  in  a  week  they  had  collected  and  dried  a 
sufficient  quantity  of  meat  for  their  purpose. 

Meanwhile  they  heard  of  a  large  river  which  empties  into  the  south 
side  of  the  Columbia  a  few  miles  below,  and  Captain  Clarke  set  out  on 
the  2d,  with  one  of  his  informants  as  giude,  to  search  for  it.  Proceed- 
ing down  the  south  side  of  the  river  a  few  hours,  he  landed  at  a  house 
which  was  recognized  as  the  only  remains  of  a  village  of  twenty-four 
straw-huts  which  they  had  seen  the  preceding  fall.  Along  the  shore 
were  great  numbers  of  small  canoes  for  gathering  wappatoo,  loft  by  the 
Shahalas,  who  visit  the  place  annually,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  house 
belonged  to  a  tribe  of  the  same  nation.  On  entering  one  of  the  apart- 
ments, Captain  Clarke  offered  several  articles  in  exchange  for  wappatoo, 
but  they  appeared  sullen  and  ill-humored,  and  refused  to  give  him  any. 
He  therefore  sat  down  by  the  fire,  oi)posite  to  the  men,  and  taking  a 
port-fire  match  from  his  pocket,  threw  a  small  piece  of  it  into  the  flame ; 
at  the  same  time  he  took  his  pocket  compass,  and  by  means  of  a  magnet 
which  happened  to  be  in  his  inkhom,  made  the  needle  turn  round  very 
briskly.  The  match  now  took  fiie  and  burned  violently,  on  which  the 
Indians,  terrified  at  this  strange  exhibition,  immediately  brought  a 
quantity  of  wappatoo  and  laid  it  at  his  feet,  begging  him  to  put  out 
the  bad  fire ;  while  an  old  woman  continued  to  speak  with  great  vehe- 
mence, as  if  praying  and  imploring  protection.  Having  received  the 
roots,  Captain  Clarke  put  up  the  compass,  and  as  the  match  went  out 
of  itself,  tranquillity  was  restored,  though  the  women  and  children  still 
took  refuge  in  their  beds,  and  behind  the  men.  He  now  paid  for  what 
he  had  used,  and  after  I'jhting  his  pipe,  and  smoking  with  them,  he 
continued  down  the  river.  He  found  the  mouth  of  a  large  river,  called 
Multnomah  by  the  Indians,  which  a  cluster  of  islands  had  concealed 
from  them  in  their  p&^aage  down  and  up  the  Columbia.  From  its 
entrance  Mount  St.  Helen's  bore  north,  Mount  Hood  due  east,  and  Cap- 
tain Clarke  now  discovered  to  the  south-east  a  mountain  which  ho  had 
not  before  seen,  and  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  Mount  Jelfei-son. 
Like  St.  Helen's,  its  figure  was  a  regular  cone,  and  it  appeared  to  be  of 
equal  height  with  that  mountain.  He  entered  the  Multnomah  which  he 
ascended  several  miles,  and  found  to  be  a  fine  navigable  river,  held 
some  intercourse  with  the  natives  on  its  banks,  and  returned  to  the 
camp  on  the  evening  of  the  3d. 

On  the  9th  they  continued  their  journey  and  reached  the  first  rapids. 
During  the  whole  day  they  passed  along  under  high,  steep,  and  rocky 
sides  of  the  mountains,  which  at  length  closed  in  on  each  side  of  the 
river,  forming  stupendous  precipices,  covered  with  fir  and  white  cedar. 

12 


f*^ 


I 


••V" 


— • ^ 

178  TRAVELS    OF    LEWIS   AND    CLARKE. 

"^%Vr clay  the  preparations  were  made  for  a  portage,  which  wa.  be- 
1  the  nth  by  nearly  the  whole  party,  who  dragged  four  of  the 
gun  on  the  nth,  77^"^.,    ^ith  „reat  difficulty  and  labor.    A 
canoes  to  .^^^^  ^^^f  ,^    ^tlaS   a^^^^^ 

StS^sre:e-;:^c:^^^^^^^^^^  ^-s 

*\     v^nta  nnfl  in  several  instances  seemed  very  ill  disposea.     omv     , 
them  before  they  had  time  10  uraw  afterward  it  M'as  found 

any  baggage,  or  msu  ted  the  n^«"'  ™'        Wahclellahs  who  seemed 

'""i  porioque  «a,  lost  in  .1,0  rapids,  and  to  replace  ■».  Capt^^  U^^ 

Vi  J.  fV,r.  I'lth  two  small  canoes,  in  exchange  for  two  robes  ana 

C\7k;rns     Th  y  lo  purchased,  ;ith  deer-skins,  three  dogs    an 

a  .-..T!::"  "iM,  ,v.s  oonsidcrcd  a,  *ci,arV..gevof  vast  .»«aU.- 


RKE. 

uitiful  cascades,  one 
ndicular  rock  three 
streams  precipitate 
porating  in  a  mist, 
y  reach  the  bottom 

rtagc,  which  was  be- 
dragged  four  of  the 
iculty  and  labor.    A 
ith  Captain  Le\vis  to 
clellahs  to  be  great 
numbers  saved  them 
they  were  taking  up 
11  disposed.     Shields, 
and  being  separated 
I  out  of  the  road  and 
10  weapon  but  a  long 
both,  hoping  to  kill 
s,  but  as  soon  as  they 
fterward  it  was  found 
i's  dog  to  their  village 
dispatched  in  pursuit 
;est  resistance  or  hesi- 
Insight  of  the  thieves, 
id  made  off.    The  In- 
old  that  whoever  stole 
istantly  shot.    During 
ihclellahs  who  seemed 
of  the  Indians,  which, 
men  belonging  to  the 

(lace  it.  Captain  Lewis 
mgo  for  two  robes  and 
r-skins,  three  dogs,  an 
18  it  was  found  to  be  a 
Ik,  and  much  superior 
joined  the  other  boats, 
ined  their  journey  next 
►f  seven  paces  over  the 
ts,  reloaded,  and  at  the 
>t  of  the  long  narrows. 
!ure  horses,  and  having 
se  over  the  portage  on 
above  the  rapids. 
Lo-day  at  having  caught 
binger  of  vast  quantities 


A    DISAGREEABLE    TRIBE. 


179 


in  four  or  five  days.  In  order  to  hasten  their  arrival,  the  Indians,  accord- 
ing to  custom,  dressed  the  fish  and  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  one  of  which 
w.''.s  given  to  each  child  in  the  village.  In  the  good  humor  excited  by 
this  occurrence  they  parted,  though  reluctantly,  with  four  other  horses, 
for  ^vhich  Ave  gave  them  two  kettles,  reserving  only  a  single  small  one 
for  a  mess  of  eight  men.  Unluckily,  however,  wo  lost  one  of  the  horses 
by  the  negligence  of  the  person  to  whose  charge  he  was  committed." 

On  the  morning*  of  the  21st  the  canoes  were  dispatched  to  the  Enoc- 
shur  village  at  the  Grand  Falls,  whither  Captain  Clarke  had  preceded 
them  in  order  to  barter  for  horses.  The  rest  of  the  party  were  detained 
in  searching  for  a  horse  that  had  broken  loose  in  the  night.  In  the 
mean  time  the  Indians,  who  were  always  oa  the  alert,  stole  a  tomahawk, 
which  was  not  recovered,  though  several  of  them  were  searched.  An- 
other fellow  was  detected  in  carrying  off  a  piece  of  iron,  and  kicked  out 
of  camp.  Captain  Lewis  then,  addressing  the  Indiana,  declared  that  he 
was  not  afraid  to  fight  them,  for,  if  he  chose,  he  might  instantly  put 
them  to  death  and  burn  their  village ;  that  he  did  not  wish  to  treat  them 
ill  if  they  did  not  steal ;  and  that  although  if  he  knew  who  had  the 
tomahawk  he  would  take  away  the  horses  of  the  thieves,  yet  he  woidd 
rather  lose  the  property  altogether  than  take  the  horse  of  an  innocent 
man.  The  chiefs  were  present  at  this  harangue,  hung  their  heads,  and 
made  no  reply.  At  ten  o'clock  the  men  returned  with  the  horse,  and 
they  left  these  disagreeable  people.  They  found  Captain  Clarke  at  the 
Eneeshnr  village,  and  being  here  joined  by  the  canoes  and  baggage 
across  the  portage,  they  proceeded  a  short  distance  above  the  town, 
where  they  dined  on  some  dogs,  and  then  set  fonvard.  They  encamped 
near  a  village  at  the  Rock  Rapids  on  the  23d,  and  having  assembled  the 
warriors  and  smoked  with  them,  they  entertained  them  with  the  violin 
and  a  dance  by  the  men.  The  Indians  returned  the  compliment  in  a 
dance  that  was  new  to  the  travelers,  and  then  retired,  promising  to  bar- 
ter horses  in  the  morning.  Three  horses  were  then  purchased,  and  three 
more  hired  of  a  Chopunnish  Indian  who  was  to  accompany  the  expedi- 
tion with  his  family.  They  also  promised  to  take  the  canoes  in  exchange 
for  horses,  but  finding  the  white  men  had  resolved  to  go  by  land,  they 
refused  to  give  any  thing,  in  hopes  they  would  be  forced  to  leave  them. 
Disgusted  at  this  conduct,  the  men  began  to  split  them  in  pieces,  on 
which  the  Indians  gave  several  strands  of  beads  for  each  canoe.  Hav- 
ing now  a  suflicient  number  of  horses,  they  proceeded  wholly  by  land. 

As  they  advanced  up  the  river,  they  found  the  inhabitants  more  kind 
and  hospitable.  After  a  long  march  on  the  27th,  they  had  encamped 
and  were  cooking  some  jerked  meat,  when  they  were  joined  by  a  party 
of  Wollawollahs,  among  whom  was  a  chief  named  Yellept,  who  had 
visited  them  in  October.  He  was  mi.ch  pleased  at  seeing  them  again, 
and  invited  them  to  remain  at  his  village  three  or  four  days,  when  he 
would  supply  them  with  food  and  furnish  horses  for  the  journey.  After 
their  late  experience  this  kind  offer  was  truly  acceptable,  and  tliey  went 


k 


f 


180 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


with  liim  to  his  village  six  miles  above,  and  twelve  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  Lewis's  Kiver.  Yellept  then  harangued  his  people  on  the  virtues  of 
hospitality,  and  set  them  an  example  by  bringing  an  annful  of  wood 
and  a  platter  of  roasted  mullets.  They  immediately  began  by  furnishmg 
an  abundance  of  the  only  fuel  they  use,  the  stems  of  plants.  The  trav- 
elers  then  purchased  four  dogs,  on  which  they  supped  heartUy,  having 
been  on  short  allowance  for  two  days  past. 

The  Indians  informed  them  of  a  route  opposite  their  village  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Kooskooskee,  much  shorter  than  that  by  Lewis's  River,  and 
passing  over  a  level,  watered  country,  abounding  in  deer  and  antelope. 
As  there  were  no  houses  on  this  road,  they  thought  it  prudent  to  lay  m 
a  stock  of  provisions,  and  accordingly,  next  morning,  purchased  ten  dogs. 
Meanwhile  Yellept  presented  a  fine  white  horse  to  Captain  Clarke,  ex- 
pressing a  wish  to  have  a  kettle ;  but  on  being  told  that  they  had  dis- 
posed  of  the  last  one  they  could  spare,  he  said  he  would  be  content  with 
any  present  they  should  make  in  return.    Captain  Clarke  therefore  gave 
his  sword,  for  M'hich  the  chief  had  before  expressed  a  desire,  adding 
one  hundred  balls,  some  powder,  and  other  articles,  with  which  he  ap- 
peared perfectly  satisfied.     Fortunately  there  was  here  a  Shoshonee 
prisoner,  from  the  south  of  the  Multnomah,  who  spoke  the  same  language 
as  the  Shoshonee  woman  Sacajawea,  and  by  their  means  Lewis  and 
Clarke  were  able  to  explain  themselves  intelligibly  to  the  Indians.    The 
latter  were  inspired  with  confidence,  and  soon  brought  several  sick  per- 
sons requiring  assistance.    They  splintered  the  arm  of  one,  and  admm- 
istered  remedies  for  various  diseases ;  but  their  most  valuable  medicme 
was  eye-water,  which  was  greatly  needed :  the  complaint  of  the  eyes, 
occasioned  by  living  on  the  water,  and  increased  by  the  fine  sand  of  the 
plsuns,  being  now  universal. 

On  the  29th,  they  crossed  the  river  in  the  canoes  of  Yellept.  In  the 
course  of  the  day  they  gave  smaU  medals  to  two  inferior  chiefs,  each  of 
whom  made  them  a  present  of  a  fine  horse.  They  were  in  a  poor  con- 
dition to  make  an  adequate  acknowledgment  for  this  kindness,  but  gave 
several  articles,  among  which  was  a  pistol,  and  several  rounds  of  ammu- 
nition. They  felt  indeed  that  they  had  been  treated  by  these  people 
with  an  imusual  degree  of  kmdness.  They  finally  took  leave  of  this 
honest,  worthy  tribe,  and,  accompanied  by  a  guide  and  the  Chopun- 
nish  famUy,  set  off  across  an  open  sandy  plain,  on  the  30th.  They  had 
now  twenty-three  horses,  many  of  them  young  and  excellent  animals, 
but  the  greater  part  afflicted  with  sore  backs.  The  Indians  m  general 
are  cruel  masters;  they  ride  very  hard,  and  as  the  saddles  are  badly 
constructed  it  is  almost  impossible  to  avoid  wounding  the  back,  yet  they 
continue  to  ride  when  the  poor  creatures  are  scarified  m  a  dreadful 

manner.  ,     -rr     i       i 

They  reached  Lewis's  River  a  few  mUes  above  the  Kooskooskee,  on 
the  4th  of  May,  and  next  day  continued  their  journey  up  the  latter 
river.    As  they  proceeded  they  frequently  met  old  acquamtances  of  last 


mm 


liii 


IKE. 

Ds  below  the  mouth 
;  on  the  virtues  of 
in  annful  of  wood 
)egan  by  furnishing 
plants.  The  trav- 
ed  heartily,  having 

their  village  to  the 
r  Lewis's  River,  and 
deer  and  antelope, 
it  prudent  to  lay  in    I 
purchased  ten  dogs. 
Captain  Clarke,  ex- 
.  that  they  bad  dis- 
mid  be  content  with 
larke  therefore  gave 
led  a  desire,  addbg 
,  with  which  ho  ap- 
3  here  a  Shoshonee 
ce  the  same  language 
r  means  Lewis  and 
to  the  Indians.    The 
ght  several  sick  per- 
L  of  one,  and  admin- 
st  valuable  medicine 
mplaint  of  the  eyes, 
\f  the  fine  sand  of  the 


MEETING   WITH    TWISTED   HAIB. 


181 


jsofYellept.    In  the 
ferior  chiefs,  each  of 
were  in  a  poor  con- 
is  kindness,  but  gave 
eral  rounds  of  aramu- 
ted  by  these  people 
ly  took  leave  of  this 
de  and  the  Chopun- 
tbe  30th.    They  had 
id  excellent  animals, 
e  Indians  in  general 
le  saddles  are  badly 
Bg  the  back,  yet  they 
sarified  in  a  dreadful 

the  Kooskooskee,  on 
ourney  up  the  latter 
acquwntances  of  last 


year,  and  always  found  that  their  kindness  had  not  been  bestowed  on 
the  natives  in  vain.  On  the  6th,  an  Indian  gave  Captain  Clarke  a  very 
elegant  gray  mare,  for  which  all  ho  requested  was  a  phial  of  eye-water. 
In  the  autumn,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chopunnish  River,  a  man  Avith  pain 
in  his  knee  was  brought  to  them  for  relief.  He  was,  to  appearance, 
recovered  from  his  disorder,  though  he  had  not  walked  for  some  time. 
But  that  they  might  not  be  disappointed,  Captain  Clarke,  with  much 
ceremony,  washed  and  rubbed  his  sore  limb,  and  gave  him  some  vol- 
atile liniment  to  continue  the  operation,  which  caused,  or  rather  did  not 
prevent,  his  recovery.  The  man  grateflilly  circulated  their  praises,  and 
their  &mo  as  phyricians  was  increased  by  the  efficiency  of  some  eye- 
water which  they  gave  them  at  the  same  time.  This  new  resource  of 
obtaining  subsistence  was  not  unwelcome,  now,  when  their  stock  of 
merchandise  was  very  much  reduced.  So  great  was  the  fame  of  their 
medical  skill,  that  when  they  encamped  that  evening  at  Colter's  Creek, 
they  soon  had  nearly  fifty  patients.  A  chief  brought  his  wife  with  an 
abscess  in  her  back,  which  Captain  Clarke  opened  and  dressed,  and  then 
distributed  medicines  to  others.  Next  day  the  woman  declared  she  had 
slept  better  than  at  any  time  since  her  illness.  She  was  therefore  dressed 
a  second  time,  and  her  husband,  according  to  promise,  brought  them 
a  horse  which  they  immediately  killed.  Their  practice  now  increased 
so  long  as  they  remained.  When  they  had  gone  a  few  miles  further 
an  Indian  brought  them  two  canisters  of  powder,  which  his  dog  had 
found.  They  recognized  them  as  the  same  they  had  buried  last  fall, 
and  as  he  had  kept  them  sately,  and  had  honesty  enough  to  return 
them,  they  rewarded  him  as  weU  as  they  could. 

In  crossing  the  plain  they  saw  that  the  Rocky  Mountains  were  still 
covered  with  snow,  which  the  Indians  informed  tbem  was  so  deep  that 
they  would  not  be  able  to  pass  before  the  1st  of  June,  and  some 
placed  the  time  later.  As  they  were  very  desirous  of  reaching  the 
plains  of  the  Missouri,  if  for  no  other  reason  than  that  of  once  more 
enjoying  a  good  meal,  this  intelligence  was  most  unwelcome,  and 
gave  no  relish  to  the  remainder  of  the  horse  killed  at  Colter's  Creek, 
which  formed  their  supper,  and  part  of  which  had  already  been  their 
dinner. 

On  the  8th,  they  met  with  the  Twisted  Hair,  the  chief  to  whom 
they  had  confided  their  horses,  and  part  of  their  saddles,  but  as  he 
received  them  with  great  coldness  they  formed  very  unfavorable  con- 
jectures. They  soon  found  that  a  violent  quarrel  had  arisen  between 
him  and  Neeshnepahkeeook,  the  Cutnose,  who  now  addressed  each  other 
in  a  loud,  angry  manner.  They  interposed,  and  all  went  forward  to 
a  place  of  encampment ;  the  two  chiefs  forming  separate  camps,  at  a 
distance  from  each  other.  Anxious  to  reconcile  the  chiefs,  and  recover 
their  property,  they  desired  a  Shoshonee,  who  had  been  with  the  party 
some  days,  to  interpret  while  they  attempted  a  mediation  ;  but  he  per- 
emptorily refused  to  speak  a  word,  for  fear  of  meddling  in  a  private 


'!•' 


n 


40, 


Tf 


i^ 


li 


182 


TEAVBLS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


quarrel  where  he  had  no  right  to  interfere.    The  TwiHtcd  Ilair  was    , 
afterward  invited  to  come  and  smoke  with  them,     lie  accepted  the 
invitation,  and  informed  them  that  he  had,  accordmg  to  promise,  col- 
lected the  horses,  and  taken  charge  of  them ;  but  that  Nceshnepah-    , 
keeook,  and  Tunnachemootoolt  (the  Cutnose,  and  Brokenarm),  .^ho  had     ; 
been  on  a  war  party  against  the  Shoshonees,  returned,  and  bccommg    , 
iealous  because  the  horses  were  confided  to  his  care,  wore  constantly 
quarreling  with  him.    At  length,  unwilling  to  live  in  perpetual  dispute 
with  the  two  chiefs,  he  had  given  up  the  care  of  the  horses,  which  had 
consequently  become  much  scattered.    He  added  that  m  the  spring  the    , 
earth  had  fallen  away  and  exposed  the  saddles,  some  of  which  had    , 
probably  been  lost,  but  that  he  had  buried  them  m  another  deposit 
Next  day  he  brought  m  about  half  the  saddles,  and  some  powoer  and 
lead  which  was  buried  at  the  same  place;  and  soon  afterward  tie  In- 
dians brought  m  about  twenty-one  of  the  horses,  the  greater  part  ot 
which  were  in  exceUent  order,  though  some  had  not  yet  recovered  fiom 
hard  usage.    The  Cutnose  and  Twisted  Hair  seemed  now  perfectly  le-    , 
concUed,  and  both  slept  in  the  house  of  the  former.    The  party  set  for-    j 
ward  next  morning,  and  in  the  afternoon  arrived  at  the  house  of  Broken-    ! 
arm.  where  they  were  received  with  due  form  under  a  flag  which  they    , 
had  given  him.    In  the  evening  the  people  brought  them  a  large  supply 
of  roots,  for  which  they  thanked  them,  but  remarked  that  they  were  not 
accustomed  t.  live  on  roots  alone,  and  therefore  proposed  to  exchange 
a  good  horse,  which  was  lean,  for  one  that  was  fatter,  which  they  might 
kin     The  chief  said  that  his  people  had  an  abundance  of  young  horses, 
and  that  if  their  guests  were  disposed  to  use  that  food,  they  might  have 
as  many  as  they  wanted.    Accordmgly  they  soon  gave  them  two  fat 
young  horses,  without  asking  any  thing  in  return.  ,        ,, 

During  their  stay  they  were  visited  by  several  Indians,  and  on  the 
11th,  find^g  some  of  the  principal  chiefe  of  the  Chopunnish  nation  pres- 
ent, they  took  the  opportunity  to  explain  the  intentions  of  the  govern- 
ment     They  drew  a  map  of  the  relative  situation  of  the  country  on  a 
mat  with  a  piece  of  coal,  .nen  detaUed  the  nature  and  power  of  the 
American  nation,  its  desire  to  preserve  harmony  between  all  its  red 
brethren,  and  its  intention  of  establiahmg  tradmg  houses  for  theu-^rehef 
and  support.    "  It  was  not  without  difficulty,  nor  till  neariy  half  the  day 
was  spent,  that  we  were  able  to  convey  all  this  mformation  to  the  Cho- 
punnish, much  of  which  might  have  been  lost  or  distorted  m  the  c"-emt. 
ous  route  through  a  variety  of  languages:  for  m  the  first  Pl^^^'^^  «P«^^ 
in  English  to  one  of  our  men,  who  translated  it  into  French  to  Chabo- 
neau ;  he  interpreted  it  to  his  wife  in  the  Minnetaree  language,  and  she 
then  put  it  uito  Shoshonee,  and  the  young  Shoshonee  prisoner  explamed 
it  to  ihe  Chopunnish  in  their  own  dialect.    At  last  we  succeeded  m  com- 
municating  the  impression  they  wished,  and  then  adjourned  the  comics , 
after  which  we  amused  them  by  showing  the  wonders  of  the  compass 
the  spy-glass,  the  magnet,  the  watch,  and  air-gmi,  each  of  which  attracted 


ARKE. 

0  Twisted  Hair  was 

ilc  accepted   the 

rdiiig  to  promise,  col- 

ut  tliat  Necshnepah- 

Brokcnarm),  vho  had 

urncd,  and  becoming 

care,  wore  constantly 

in  perpetual  disputn 

the  horses,  which  had 

that  in  the  spring  tho 

,  some  of  which  had 

m  in  another  deposit. 

and  some  powder  and 

3on  afterward  the  In- 

ics,  the  greater  pait  of 

not  yet  recovered  fiom 

emed  now  perfectly  le- 

ler.    The  party  set  foi  • 

at  the  house  of  Brokcn- 

ider  a  flag  which  they 

^ht  them  a  large  supply 

:ked  that  they  were  not 

i  proposed  to  exchange 

atter,  which  they  might 

idance  of  young  horses, 

,t  food,  they  might  have 

)on  gave  them  two  fat 

n. 

ral  Indians,  and  on  th» 
Chopunnish  nation  pres- 
ntentions  of  the  govern- 
on  of  the  country  on  a 
iture  and  power  of  the 
)ny  between  all  its  red 
ig  houses  for  their  relief 
r  till  nearly  half  the  day 
information  to  the  Cho- 
'  distorted  in  the  circuit- 
the  first  place,  we  spoke 
t  into  French  to  Chabo- 
3taree  language,  and  she 
lonee  prisoner  explained 
ist  we  succeeded  in  com- 
n  adjourned  the  councV. ; 
londers  of  the  compass, 
,  each  of  which  attracted 


FRIENDLY    COUNCILS. 


188 


its  share  of  attention.  They  said  that  after  wc  had  left  tho  Minnetarccs 
last  autumn  three  young  Chopunnish  had  gone  ov»'r  to  that  nation,  who 
had  mentioned  our  visit,  and  tho  extraordinary  articles  we  had  with  us, 
but  they  had  placed  no  confidence  in  it  till  now." 

Next  day  the  chiefs  and  warriors  held  a  council  to  decide  on  llu-i  • 
answer,  and  the  result  was  that  they  resolved  to  follow  the  advice  of  the 
white  men. 

The  principal  chief,  Tunnachemootoolt,  then  took  a  quantity  of  flour 
of  roots,  and  thickened  the  soup  which  his  people  were  cooking,  and 
making  known  the  determination  of  the  chiefs,  uivited  all  who  agreed 
to  the  proceedings  of  tho  council  to  come  and  cat,  while  those  who  dis- 
sented Avould  abstain  from  the  feast.  Meanwhile  tho  women,  probably 
uneasy  at  the  prospect  of  this  new  connection  with  strangers,  tore  their 
hair  and  wrung  their  hands  with  tho  greatest  appearance  of  distress. 
But  the  concluding  appeal  of  the  orator  eflectualiy  stopped  tho  mouth 
of  every  malcontent  i  tho  pioceedings  were  ratified,  and  tho  mush  de- 
voured with  the  most  zealous  unanimity.  The  chiefs  and  warriors  then 
came  in  a  body  to  Lewis  and  Clarke,  and  at  their  instance  two  young 
men  presented  each  of  them  with  a  fine  horse.  The  latter  then  gave 
flags  and  presents  to  the  chiefs  and  the  two  young  men,  after  which  the 
chiei's  invited  them  to  their  tent  to  receive  their  answer,  but  stated  also 
that  many  of  their  people  were  then  waiting  in  great  pain  for  medical 
assistance.  Captain  Clarke,  who  was  the  favorite  physician,  therefore 
went  to  visit  the  sick,  while  Captain  Lewis  attended  the  council. 

The  meeting  was  opened  by  an  aged  chief,  who  delivered  a  long 
speech  in  approbation  of  the  advice  they  had  received,  expressing  their 
desire  to  be  at  peace  with  all  their  neighbors.  They  had  fought  with  tho 
Shoshonees,  because  the  latter  had  slain  their  messengers  of  peace ;  but 
now,  having  avenged  the  insult,  they  would  receive  them  as  friends. 
They  would  send  some  of  their  young  men  with  the  expedition  if  they 
would  eflfect  a  peace  with  the  Indians  on  the  Missouri,  and  then  the  whole 
nation  would  go  over  next  summer.  They  had  not  yet  decided  to  send 
a  chief  with  the  white  men  to  their  country,  but  would  let  them  know 
before  they  left.  The  whites  might  depend  on  their  attachment  and 
their  best  services,  for  though  poor,  their  hearts  were  good.  Captain 
Lewis  replied  at  some  length.  They  appeared  highly  gratified,  and  after 
smoking  the  pipe,  made  him  a  present  of  another  fat  horse  for  food.  He 
in  turn  gave  Brokenarm  a  phial  of  eye-water  for  all  who  would  apply  to 
him,  and  promised  to  fill  it  again ;  at  which  liberality  the  chief  was 
much  pleased.  To  Twisted  Hair,  who  had  collected  six  more  horses,  he 
gave  a  gun,  a  hundred  balls,  and  two  pounds  of  powder,  promising  the 
same  quantity  when  they  received  the  remainder  of  their  horses.  In 
the  course  of  the  day  three  more  were  brought  in,  and  a  fresh  exchange 
of  small  presents  put  the  Indians  in  excellent  humor.  Having  settled  all 
their  aflairs,  the  Indians  separated  into  two  parties,  and  began  to  play  the 
game  of  hiding  a  bone  for  stakes  of  beads  and  other  ornaments. 


V 


it 


i 


^u 


■)i 


Ik 


184 


TRAVELS   OP   LEWIS   AND   CLARKE. 


On  tho  14th,  Lewis  and  Clarke  transported  nil  their  bagRaRO  and 
swam  their  horaes  across  the  river,  and  formed  their  ciunp  a  short  <li8- 
tanco  below,  on  a  spot  recommended  by  tho  Indians.  As  they  were  to 
pass  some  time  in  this  neighborhood,  wbilo  waiting  for  tho  snow  on  the 
mountains  to  melt,  they  sent  out  a  number  of  hunters  in  different  direc- 
tions ;  tho  rest,  who  were  well,  were  employed  in  completing  the  camp. 
They  secured  the  baggage  with  a  shelter  of  grass,  and  made  a  kind  of 
tent  of  part  of  an  old  sail,  while  tho  men  formed  very  comfortable  huts 
of  willow-poles  and  grass.  In  a  few  days  it  rained,  and  the  flimsy  cover- 
ing  of  Lewis  and  Clarke  so  leaked  that  they  were  in  water  most  of  the 
time,  and,  what  was  more  unlucky,  their  chronometer  became  wet  and 
rusted.  Tlie  men  built  a  canoe,  for  which  the  Indians  promised  a  horso 
when  they  should  set  out.  The  hunters  brought  nothing  but  a  sandhill 
crane,  and,  as  they  usually  met  with  ill  success,  the  last  morsel  of  meat 
was  eaten.  As  there  was  now  little  hope  of  procuring  a  stock  of  dried 
meat,  they  made  a  division  of  all  tho  merchandise,  so  as  to  enable  tho 
men  to  purchase  a  store  of  roots  and  bread  for  the  mountains.  On  par- 
celing out  the  stores,  the  stock  of  each  man  was  found  to  consist  of  only 
one  awl,  and  one  knitting-pin,  half  an  ounce  of  vermilion,  two  needles, 
a  few  skeins  of  thread,  and  about  a  yard  of  ribbon — but  slender  means 
of  bartering  for  a  subsistence,  but  the  men  had  been  now  so  much  accus- 
tomed to  privations,  that  neither  tho  want  of  meat  nor  the  scanty  funds 
of  the  party,  excited  the  least  anxiety  among  them. 

"  Besides  administering  medical  relief  to  the  Indians,"  says  the  nar- 
rative, "  we  arc  obliged  to  devote  much  of  our  time  to  the  care  of  our 
own  invalids.  The  child  of  Sacajawea  is  very  unwell ;  and  with  ono  of 
the  men  we  have  ventured  an  experiment  of  a  very  robust  nature.  He 
has  been  for  some  time  sick,  but  has  now  recovered  his  flesh,  eats  heart- 
ily, and  digests  well,  but  has  so  great  a  weakness  in  the  loins  that  he 
can  not  walk,  nor  even  sit  upright  without  extreme  pain.  After  we  had 
in  vain  exhausted  tho  resources  of  our  art,  one  of  the  hunters  mentioned 
that  ho  had  known  persons  in  similar  situations  restored  by  violent 
sweats,  and  at  the  request  of  the  patient  we  permitted  the  remedy  to  be 
applied.  For  this  purpose  a  hole,  ab-ut  four  feet  deep  and  three  in 
diameter,  was  dug  in  the  earth,  and  heated  well  by  a  large  Are  in  the 
bottom  of  it.  The  fire  was  then  taken  out,  and  an  arch  foimed  over  the 
whole  by  means  of  willow-poles,  and  covered  with  several  blankets,  so 
as  to  make  a  perfect  awning.  The  patient,  being  stripped  naked,  was 
seated  under  this  on  a  bench,  with  a  piece  of  board  for  his  feet,  and  with 
a  jug  of  water  we  sprinkled  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  hole,  so  as  to 
keep  up  as  hot  a  steam  as  he  could  bear.  After  remuning  twenty  min- 
utes in  this  situation  he  was  taken  out,  immediately  plunged  twice  in 
cold  water,  and  brought  back  to  the  hole,  where  he  resumed  the  vapor 
bath.  During  all  this  time  he  drank  copiously  of  a  strong  infusion  of 
horse-mint,  which  was  used  as  a  substitute  for  the  seneca-root,  which  our 
informant  said  he  had  seen  employed  on  these  occasions,  but  of  which 


LKE. 

(heir  bngRaRC  and 

cuinp  a  Hhort  difi- 

As  they  were  to 

for  the  snow  on  the 

8  in  different  direc- 

mplcting  the  camp. 

Ind  made  n  kind  of 

ry  comfortable  huts 

nd  the  fliniHy  cover- 

water  most  of  the 

er  became  wet  and 

ns  promised  a  horse 

othing  but  a  sandhill 

!  last  morsel  of  meat 

ing  a  stock  of  dried 

so  as  to  enable  the 

mountains.    On  par- 

md  to  consist  of  only 

rmilion,  two  needles, 

— but  slender  means 

n  now  so  much  accus- 

nor  the  scanty  funds 

idians,"  says  the  nar- 
le  to  the  care  of  our 
^ell ;  and  with  one  of 
■y  robust  nature.  He 
id  his  flesh,  eats  heart- 
9  in  the  loins  that  ho 

0  pain.  After  we  had 
;he  hunters  mentioned 
3  restored  by  violent 
tted  the  remedy  to  be 
jet  deep  and  three  in 
by  a  large  Are  in  the 

1  arch  formed  over  the 
;h  several  blankets,  so 
g  stripped  naked,  was 
I  for  his  feet,  and  with 
i  of  the  hole,  so  as  to 
emaining  twenty  min- 
tely  plunged  twice  in 
he  resumed  the  vapor 
:  a  strong  infusion  of 
seneca-root,  which  our 
icasions,  but  of  which 


TRK    VAPOR   CUUE. 


186 


:u 


there  is  nono  in  this  country.  At  the  end  of  three  quarters  of  an  hour 
he  wiia  again  withdrawn  from  the  hole,  carefully  wrapped,  and  Huffercd 
to  cool  {j;radually.  The  next  morning  he  walked  about,  and  was  nearly 
free  from  pain. 

"An  Indian  was  brought  in  to-day  who  had  lost  the  use  of  his  limbs, 
and  for  whose  recovery  the  natives  seemed  very  anxious,  as  he  is  a  chief 
of  considerable  rank  among  them.  His  situation  is  beyond  the  reach  of 
our  skill."  On  the  25th,  they  attempted  to  sweat  him,  but  found  he  was 
too  weak,  and  had  to  desist.  The  Indians  who  accompanied  him  were 
so  anxious  for  his  safety  that  they  still  remained,  and  on  the  27th  had 
the  operation  of  sweating  again  attempted.  Tlio  hole  was  therefore 
enlarged,  and  the  father  of  the  chief  went  in  with  him  and  held  him  in  a 
proper  position.  *'  Wo  could  not  produce  as  complete  a  perspiration  as 
we  desired,  and  after  ho  was  taken  out  ho  complained  of  suffering  con- 
siderable pain,  which  we  relieved  with  a  few  drops  of  laudanum,  and 
then  he  rested  well.  Next  morning  ho  was  able  to  use  his  arms,  felt 
better  than  ho  had  for  many  months,  and  sat  up  during  the  greater  part 
of  the  day.  *  ♦  ♦  29th.  TJie  Indian  chief  is  still  rapidly  recovering, 
and  for  the  first  time  during  the  last  twelve  months,  had  strength  enough 
to  wash  his  face.  "We  had  intended  to  repeat  his  sweating  to-day,  but 
as  the  weather  was  cloudy,  with  occasional  rain,  we  declined  it.  This 
operation,  though  violent,  seems  highly  eflicacious ;  for  our  own  man, 
on  whom  the  experiment  was  first  made,  is  recovering  his  strength  very 
fast,  and  the  restoration  of  the  chief  is  wonderful."  Ho  continued  to 
improve,  and  on  the  following  day,  after  a  violent  sweating,  was  able  to 
move  one  of  his  legs,  and  thighs,  and  some  of  his  toes ;  the  fingers  and 
arms  berng  almost  entirely  restored  to  their  former  strength. 

On  the  Ist  of  Juno  their  stock  of  merchandise  was  completely  ex- 
hausted, and  as  yet  they  had  no  adequate  supplies  for  the  mountains. 
Being  anxious  to  provide  against  the  cold  and  hunger  which  they  had 
to  encounter  on  the  passage,  they  created  a  new  fund  by  cutting  off  the 
buttons  from  their  clothes,  preparing  eye-water,  and  adding  some  small 
articles  that  had  been  in  use.  With  this  cargo  two  men  set  out  on  the 
2d  to  trade,  and  brought  home  three  bushels  of  roots  and  some  bread, 
which,  in  their  situation,  was  as  important  as  the  return  of  an  East  In- 
dia ship.  Another  party  returned  from  Lewis's  River  with  roots  and 
salmon,  but  the  distance  was  so  great  that  most  of  the  fish  was  nearly 
spoiled.  They  continued  hunting  in  the  neighborhood,  and  by  their  own 
exertions  and  trading  with  the  Indians,  succeeded  in  procuring  as  much 
bread  and  roots,  besides  other  food,  as  would  enable  them  to  subsist  dur- 
ing the  passage  of  the  mountains. 

On  the  10th,  they  collected  their  horses  and  set  out  for  the  Quamash 
Flats,  where  they  intended  to  hunt  for  a  few  days  before  proceeding  to 
the  mountains.  In  this  they  were  not  very  successful ;  therefore,  on  the 
morning  of  the  16th,  they  collected  their  straggling  hovaes  and  proceeded. 
On  the  11th  they  found  themselves  enveloped  in  snow,  from  twelve  to 


i 


i.'f 


r 

1 


r 


186 


TRAVELS    OP    LEWIS    AND    CLARKE. 


fifteen  feet  deep,  eveu  on  the  south  side  of  the  mountain.  The  air  was 
keen  and  cold,  no  vestige  of  vegetation  was  to  be  seen,  and  their  hands 
and  fuot  were  benumbeil.  The  snow  bore  their  horses,  and  rendered  the 
traveling  far  easier  than  it  was  during  their  outward  journey.  But  it 
weald  require  five  days  to  pass  over,  the  danger  of  missing  the  vay  was 
great,  and  durhig  this  time  there  would  be  no  chanee  of  finding  cither 
grass  or  underwood  for  the  horses.  They  therefore  decided  to  venture 
no  further.  The  baggage  and  provisions,  together  with  instruments 
and  papers,  were  deposited  on  scaffolds  and  carefully  covered.  They 
then  rot  out  at  one  o'clock,  and  retracing  their  steps,  encamped  on  Hun- 
gry Creek,  at  a  spot  where  they  found  some  scanty  grass.  In  the  hope 
of  procuring  a  guide  they  went  back  to  the  Flats  on  the  21st,  and  in  the 
evening  found  themselves  at  their  old  encampment,  where  the  hunters 
had  killed  a  deer  for  supper.  Next  day  all  the  hunters  were  out,  and 
brought  in  eight  deer  and  three  bear. 

Having  obtained  guides,  they  set  out  at  an  early  hour  on  the  24th, 
•  on  a  second  attempt  to  cross  the  mountains.  Pursuing  their  former 
route,  they  arrived  at  Hungry  Creek  on  the  evening  of  the  25th,  and 
next  morning  began  once  more  to  ascend  the  ridge  of  mountains.  On 
reaching  the  top,  they  found  their  deposit  perfectly  untouched.  The 
snow  had  melted  nearly  four  feet  since  the  seventeenth.  They  arranged 
their  baggage,  took  a  hasty  meal,  and  hastened  on,  as  they  had  a  long 
ride  before  reaching  a  spot  \/here  there  was  grass  for  the  horses.  They 
continued  their  route  along  the  mountain-ridge,  where  sometimes  they 
were  so  completely  inclosed  by  mountains  that,  hlthough  they  had  once 
passed  them,  they  would  have  despaired  of  finding  their  way  out  through 
the  snow,  but  for  the  Indians.  The  marks  on  the  trees,  which  had  been 
their  chief  dependence,  were  fewer  and  more  indistinct  than  they  had 
supposed;  but  their  guides  traversed  this  trackless  region  with  a  kind  of 
instinctive  sagacity ;  they  never  hesitated,  were  never  embarrassed ;  yet 
so  undeviating  was  their  step,  that  wherever  the  snow  had  disappeared, 
for  even  a  few  paces,  they  found  the  summer  road.  On  the  29th,  the 
ridge  they  had  been  following  for  several  days  terminated,  and,  leaving 
the  snows,  they  descended  to  the  main  branch  of  the  Kooskooskee. 

"  July  1. — We  had  now  made  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  miles  from  the 
Quamash  Flats  to  the  mouth  of  Traveler's  Rest  Creek.  This  being  the 
pouit  where  we  proposed  to  separate,  it  was  resolved  to  remain  a  day  or 
two  in  order  to  refresh  ourselves  and  the  horses.  We  now  formed  the 
following  plan  of  operations :  Captain  Lewis,  with  nine  men,  is  to  pursue 
the  most  direct  route  to  the  falls  of  the  Missouri,  where  three  of  his  party 
are  to  prepare  carriages  for  transporting  the  baggage  and  canoes  across 
the  portage.  With  the  remaining  six  he  will  ascend  Maria's  ■*•" '  er  to 
explore  the  country,  and  ascertahi  whether  any  branch  of  it  reaches  as 
for  north  as  the  latitude  of  fifty  degrees,  after  which  he  will  descend  that 
river  to  its  mouth.  The  rest  of  the  men  will  accompany  Captain  Clarke 
to  the  head  of  Jefferson  River,  which  Sergeant  Ordway  and  a  party  of 


RKE. 

)untaui.  The  air  was 
seen,  and  their  hands 
rses,  and  rendered  the 
ard  journey.  But  it 
missing  the  vay  was 
nee  of  finding  cither 
re  decided  to  venture 
ler  with  instruments 
fully  covered.  They 
)s,  encamped  on  Hun- 
,y  grass.  In  the  hope 
on  the  21st,  and  in  the 
nt,  where  the  hunters 
hunters  were  out,  and 

arly  hour  on  the  24th, 
Pursuing  their  former 
ning  of  the  25th,  and 
ge  of  mountains.  On 
ctly  untouched.  The 
eenth.  They  aiTanged 
)n,  as  they  had  a  long 
for  the  horses.  They 
where  sometimes  they 
though  they  had  once 
;  their  way  out  through 
!  trees,  which  had  been 
distinct  than  they  had 
IS  region  with  a  kind  of 
lever  embarrassed ;  yet 
snow  had  disappeared, 
ad.  On  the  29th,  the 
M-minated,  and,  leaving 
the  Kooskooskee. 
I  fifty-six  miles  from  the 
>eek.  This  being  the 
ved  to  remain  a  day  or 
We  now  formed  the 
I  nine  men,  is  to  pursue 
vhere  three  of  his  party 
gage  and  canoes  across 
iccnd  Maria's  ^' '  er  to 
)ranch  of  it  reaches  as 
ch  he  will  descend  that 
)mpany  Captain  Clarke 
Ordway  and  a  party  of 


THE    PARTY    SEPARATES. 


187 


nine  men  will  descend  with  the  canoes  and  other  articles  deposited  there. 
Captain  Clarke's  party,  which  will  then  be  reduced  to  ten,  will  proceed 
to  the  Yellowstone,  at  its  nearest  approach  to  the  three  forks  of  the  Mis- 
souri. There  he  will  build  canoes,  and  go  down  that  river  with  seven  of 
his  party,  and  wait  at  its  mouth  till  the  rest  of  the  party  join  him.  Ser- 
geant Pry  or,  with  two  others,  will  then  take  the  horses  by  land  to  the 
Mandans.  From  that  nation  he  is  to  go  to  the  British  posts  on  the  A^ 
siniboin,  with  a  letter  i'>  Mr.  Henry,  to  procure  his  endeavors  to  prevail 
on  some  of  the  Sioux  chiefs  to  accompany  him  to  the  city  of  Washing- 
ton." 

"  July  3. — All  our  preparations  being  completed,  we  saddled  our 
horses,  and  the  two  parties  who  had  been  so  long  companions,  now  sepa- 
rated, with  an  anxious  hope  of  soon  meeting,  after  each  had  accomplished 
the  purpose  of  its  destination." 

Captain  Lewis  proceeded  down  Clarke's  River  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Cokalaliishkit,  or,  "  River  of  the  Road  to  Bufialoes,"  by  which  they  as- 
cended to  the  dividing  ridge,  and  reached  the  Missouri  at  Whitebear  Is- 
land, above  the  falls,  on  the  11th  of  July.  They  crossed  over,  and  on 
the  13th  formed  a  camp  at  their  old  station,  near  the  head  of  the  White- 
bear  Island.  On  opening  the  deposit,  they  found  the  bearskins  entirely 
destroyed  by  the  water  which,  during  a  flood,  had  penetrated  to  them. 
All  the  specimens  of  plants  were  lost ;  the  chart  of  the  Missouri,  how- 
ever, still  remained  unhurt,  and  several  articles  contained  in  trunks  and 
boxes  had  sufiered  but  little  injury.  They  proceeded  to  make  prepara- 
tions for  transporting  the  articles,  and  on  the  15th  sent  M'Neal  to  exam- 
ine the  deposit  at  the  lower  end  of  the  portage.  He  returned  at  night, 
however,  without  having  reached  the  place.  Near  Willow  Run  he  ap- 
proached a  thicket  in  which  was  a  white  bear,  which  he  did  not  discover 
until  he  was  within  ten  feet  of  him.  His  horse  started,  and  wheeling 
suddenly  around,  threw  him  almost  immediately  imder  the  bear.  He 
started  up  instantly,  and  as  the  bear  was  rising  up  to  attack  him,  struck 
it  on  the  head  with  the  butt  of  his  musket.  The  blow  was  so  violent 
that  it  broke  the  musket  and  knocked  the  bear  to  the  ground,  and  before 
he  recovered,  M'Neal  sprang  up  a  willow-tree,  where  he  remained  closely 
guarded  by  the  bear  until  late  in  the  afternoon.  The  beast  then  went 
off,  and  M'Neal,  being  released,  came  down,  and  having  found  his  horse, 
which  had  strayed  two  miles  away,  returned  to  camp. 

Leaving  Sergeant  Gass  with  two  men  and  four  horses  to  assist  in  car- 
rying  the  effects  over  the  portage.  Captain  Lewis,  with  Drewyer  and  the 
two  Fields,  proceeded,  with  six  horses,  toward  the  sources  of  Maria's 
River.  After  a  week's  travel  they  halted  at  a  place  ten  miles  from  the 
foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  whence  they  could  trace  the  river  to  its 
egress  from  the  mountains,  and  as  this  was  to  the  south  of  west,  they 
concluded  they  had  reached  its  most  northern  point.  They  therefore 
remained  here  to  make  observations.  The  weather  was  cloudy,  and  after 
waiting  a  few  days  in  viun,  they  mounted  their  horses  on  the  20tb,  and 


I 


188 


TRAVELS   OP    LEWIS   AND    CLARKE. 


Bet  out  on  thoir  return.    They  had  proceeded  several  miles,  and  Drew- 
yer  had  gone  forward  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  when  Captain  Lewis, 
who,  with  his  party,  had  ascended  the  hills  by  the  river's  side,  saw,  at 
the  distance  of  a  mile,  about  thirty  horses,  half  of  which  Avere  saddled ; 
on  an  eminence  above  them  several  Indians  were  looking  down  toward 
the  river,  probably  at  Drewyer.    He  feared  some  evil  design,  but  'e- 
solved  to  make  the  best  of  the  situation,  and  advanced  in  a  friendly 
manner.    Their  attention  was  so  engaged  upon  Drewyer  that  tuey  did 
not  at  first  sec  the  approaching  party  ;  when  they  did  they  were  alarmed, 
and  ran  about  in  confusion.    Afterward  they  collected  as  if  to  await  them. 
An  Indian  mounted  and  rode  at  full  speed  toward  them,  but  after  halt- 
ing for  some  time  he  hastened  back  to  his  companions.    The  whole  party 
then  descended  the  hill  and  rode  toward  them.    When  they  came  near, 
all  the  Indians  but  one  stopped.    Captain  Lewis  ordered  the  two  men 
to  halt,  while  he  advanced  and  shook  hands  with  the  Indian,  and  then 
with  his  companions.    They  now  all  came  up,  and  the  Indians  proposed 
to  smoke.    Captain  Lewis  found,  by  signs,  that  they  were  Minnetarees 
of  the  north,  and  that  there  were  three  chiefs  in  the  party.    Though  he 
did  not  believe  them,  yet  he  thought  best  to  please  them,  and  he  gave 
to  one  a  flag,  to  another  a  medal,  and  to  a  third  a  handkerchief.    They 
seemed  well  satisfied,  and  now  recovered  from  their  alarm,  while  Lewis's 
party  were  equally  satisfied  that  the  Indians,  only  eight  in  number,  were 
joined  by  no  more  of  their  companions.    Being  joined  by  Drewyer, 
they  proceeded  to  the  river,  and  all  encamped  together  in  an  IndiaiJ 
tent  of  buffalo  skins,  where,  by  means  of  Drewyer,  the  evening  was 
spent  in  conversation  with  the  Indians. 

In  the  morning  the  latter  watched  their  opportunity  and  made  off 
with  the  rifles  of  the  party.  As  soon  as  Fields,  who  was  on  guard,  per- 
ceived them,  he  called  his  brother,  and  pursued  the  one  who  had  taken 
both  their  rifles.  In  their  scuflle  he  stabbed  the  Indian,  and  he  fell. 
Drewyer,  being  awake,  wrested  his  gun  from  the  fellow  who  seized  it, 
and  Captain  Lewis,  awakened  by  the  noise,  reached  to  seize  his  gun,  but 
finding  it  gone,  drew  a  pistol  and  followed  the  Indian  who  was  runnmg 
off  with  it.  He  ordered  him  to  lay  it  down,  which  was  done  just  as  the 
others  were  about  to  shoot  him.  Captain  Lewis  forbid  them,  but  find- 
ing that  the  Indians  were  now  driving  off  the  horses,  he  sent  three  of 
them  in  pursuit,  with  orders  to  fire  on  the  thieves,  while  he  pursued 
the  fellow  who  had  stolen  his  gun,  and  another  Indian,  who  were  driving 
away  the  horses  on  the  other  side.  He  pressed  them  so  closely  that  they 
left  twelve  of  their  own  horses,  but  still  made  off  vrith  one  of  Lewis's. 
As  they  entered  a  niche  in  the  bluffs,  Captain  Lewis  called  out,  as  he 
did  several  times  before,  that  unless  they  gave  up  the  horse  he  would 
shoot  them.  As  he  raised  his  gun  one  jumped  behind  a  rock,  and  Cap- 
tain  Lewis  shot  the  other.  He  fell,  but  rising  a  little,  fired,  and  then 
crawled  behind  a  rock.  Lewis,  who  was  bare-headed,  felt  the  wind  of 
his  ball ;  not  having  his  shot-pouch,  he  now  thought  it  most  prudent  to     ; 


A    RACK    FOR    LIFE. 


189 


niles,  and  Drew- 

n  Captain  Lewis, 

r's  side,  saw,  at 

1  were  saddled ; 

ig  down  toward 

design,  but  '•e- 

ed  in  a  friendly 

er  that  iuej  did 

y  were  alarmed, 

if  to  await  them. 

but  after  halt- 

The  whole  party 

they  came  near, 

ed  the  two  men 

[ndian,  and  then 

[ndians  proposed 

ere  Minnetarees 

rty.    Though  he 

em,  and  he  gave 

Ikerchief.    They 

•m,  while  Lewis's 

in  number,  were 

ed  by  Drewyer, 

tier  in  an  Indiaii 

the  evening  was 

ity  and  made  off 
as  on  guard,  per- 
le  who  had  taken 
lian,  and  he  fell. 
)W  who  seized  it, 
seize  his  gun,  but 
who  was  running 
I  done  just  as  the 
I  them,  but  find- 
lie  sent  three  of 
phile  he  pursued 
vho  were  driving 

closely  that  they 
>  one  of  Lewis's. 
;allcd  out,  as  he 

horse  he  would 
a  rock,  and  Cap- 
),  fired,  and  then 
felt  the  wind  of 
most  prudent  to 


retire.  The  other  men  pursued  the  Indians  until  two  of  them  swam  the 
river,  and  two  climbed  the  hills,  and  then  returned  with  four  horses.  In 
the  contest  they  lost  one  horae,  but  gained  four  of  the  Indiiins',  besides 
which  they  found  in  the  camp  four  shields,  two  bows  with  quivers,  and 
one  of  their  guns,  which  they  took  with  them,  as  well  as  the  flag  they 
had  given  to  the  Indians,  but  left  the  medal  around  the  neck  of  the  dead 
man  to  inform  the  tribe  who  they  were. 

As  there  was  no  time  to  lose,  they  ascended  the  river-hill  and  set  off 
across  the  level  plains  toward  the  south-east,  over  which  they  pushed 
their  horses  with  all  possible  speed.  Fortunately  the  Indian  horses  were 
good,  and  the  road  smooth,  so  that  when  they  halted  at  three  o'clock 
they  had  made,  by  estimate,  sixty-three  miles.  They  rested  an  hour  and 
a  hal^  and  then  rode  seventeen  miles  further,  when,  as  night  came  on, 
they  killed  a  buffalo,  and  again  stopped  for  two  hours.  Tlie  moon  gave 
light  enough  to  show  the  route,  and  they  continued  along  through  im- 
mense herds  of  buffalo  for  twenty  miles,  when,  almost  exhausted,  they 
halted  at  two  in  the  morning.  At  day-light  they  awoke,  sore  and 
scarcely  able  to  stand,  but  as  their  omi  lives,  as  well  as  those  of  their 
companions,  depended  on  their  passing  forward,  they  mounted  their 
horses  and  set  off.  At  the  distance  of  twelve  miles  they  came  near  the 
Missouri,  when  they  heard  a  noise  like  the  report  of  a  gun.  They 
quickened  their  pace  for  eight  miles  further,  when  they  heard  distinctly 
the  noise  of  several  rifles  from  the  river.  They  hurried  to  the  bank  and 
saw  with  joy  their  friends  coming  down  the  stream.  Turning  loose  their 
horses,  they  embarked  with  their  baggage,  and  all  proceeded  down  to 
the  spot  where  they  had  deposited  some  goods.  Most  of  the  articles 
were  injured,  but  they  took  what  was  worth  preserving,  and  immediately 
proceeded  to  the  Point,  where  the  deposits  were  found  in  good  order. 
Here  they  were  fortunately  joined  by  Gass  and  Willard  from  the  Falls, 
and  proceeding  down  the  river  together,  they  encamped  fifteen  miles  be- 
low. Sergeant  Ordway's  party,  which  had  left  the  mouth  of  Madison 
River  on  the  13th,  had  descended  in  safety  to  the  Whitebear  Islands, 
where  they  arrived  on  the  19th,  and  after  collecting  the  baggage,  left  the 
Falls  on  the  27th  in  a  perioque  and  five  canoes,  while  Sergeant  Gass  and 
Willard  set  out  at  the  same  time  by  land  with  the  horses,  and  thus  for- 
tunately the  three  parties  met  at  the  same  time. 

On  the  29th  the  united  party  proceeded  with  the  aid  of  a  strong  cur- 
rent, and  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  on  the  Tth  of  August, 
where  they  found  a  note  from  Captain  Clarke,  stating  that  he  would 
wait  for  them  a  few  miles  below.  Not  meeting  with  him  next  day,  they 
landed,  and  began  to  calk  and  repair  their  canoes,  and  also  to  repair 
some  sWns  for  clothing ;  for  smce  leaving  the  Rocky  Mountains,  they 
had  not  had  leisure  to  make  clothes,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  men 
were  almost  naked.  On  the  11th  they  went  forward  rapidly,  hoping  to 
reach  the  Burned  Hills  by  noon,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  latitude,  but  ar- 
riving too  late,  Captain  Lewis  went  with  Cruzatte  in  pursuit  of  a  herd 


190 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


of  elk  which  thoy  saw.  Each  of  them  shot  an  elk,  then  reloaded  and 
took  different  routes  in  pursuit  of  the  game,  when  just  as  Captain  Lewis 
was  taking  aim  at  an  elk,  a  ball  struck  him,  passing  through  the  left 
thigh  and  grazing  the  right.  Being  dressed  in  brown  leather,  he  thought 
Cruzatto  had  shot  him  in  mistake  for  an  elk.  He  called  several  times, 
but  seeing  nothing  and  receiving  no  answer,  he  concluded  the  shot  must 
be  froit\  an  Indian,  and  therefore  made  toward  the  boat,  calling  out  to 
Cruzatte  to  retreat,  as  there  were  Indians  in  the  willows.  He  then  or- 
dered the  men  to  arms,  saying  that  he  was  wounded  by  the  Indians,  and 
bade  them  follow  him  to  relieve  Cruzatte.  They  went  forward  until  his 
wound  became  so  painful  that  he  could  go  no  further.  He  then  ordered 
the  men  to  proceed,  and  if  overpowered  by  numbers,  to  retreat  toward 
the  boats,  keeping  up  a  fire ;  then  limping  back  to  the  boat,  he  prepared 
himself  with  his  rifle,  a  pistol,  and  the  air-gun,  to  sell  his  life  dearly  in 
case  the  men  should  be  overcome.  In  this  state  of  anxiety  he  remained 
about  twenty  minutes,  when  the  pariy  returned  with  Cruzatte,  and  re- 
ported t!  <at  no  Indians  were  to  be  seen  in  the  neighborhood.  Cruzatto 
was  nowK'ich  alarmed,  and  declared  ho  had  shot  at  an  elk  after  Captain 
Lewis  had  left  him,  but  disclaimed  every  idea  of  having  intentionally 
wounded  his  officer.  There  was  no  doubt  that  he  was  the  one  who  gave 
the  woimd,  but  as  it  seemed  wholly  accidental,  and  he  had  always  con- 
ducted himself  with  propriety,  no  further  notice  was  taken  of  it.  The 
wound  was  dressed,  and  though  it  bled  profusely,  yet  as  the  ball  had 
touched  neither  bone  nor  artery,  they  hoped  it  would  not  prove  fatal. 
They  then  went  on  till  evening,  when,  as  Captain  Lewis  had  a  high 
fever,  and  could  not  be  removed  without  great  difficulty,  he  remained 
on  board  during  the  night.  Next  morning  they  proceeded  with  all  pos- 
sible expedition,  and  soon  afterward  called  at  a  camp  of  two  Illinois  trad- 
ers, who  said  they  had  seen  Captain  Clarke  the  day  before.  While 
they  halted,  thoy  were  overtaken  by  two  hunters  who  had  been  missing 
since  the  3d,  and  whose  absence  excited  much  uneasiness.  After  mak- 
ing some  presents  to  the  traders  they  went  forward,  and  at  one  o'clock 
joined  their  friends  and  companions  under  Captain  Clarke. 

On  taking  leave  of  Captain  Lewis  and  the  Indians  on  the  3d  of  July, 
the  other  division,  consisting  of  Captain  Clarke,  with  fifteen  men  and 
fifty  horses,  set  out  in  a  southern  direction  through  the  valley  of  Clarke's 
Iliver.  During  the  next  day,  they  halted  at  an  early  hour  to  do  honor 
to  the  birth-day  of  their  country's  independence.  "  The  festival  was  not 
very  splendid,  for  it  consisted  of  a  mush  made  of  roots  and  a  saddle  of 
venison,  nor  had  we  any  thing  to  tempt  us  to  prolong  it."  On  the  6th 
they  left  the  last  year's  trail  and  crossed  over  the  dividing  ridge  to  the 
waters  of  Wisdom  River,  and  on  the  8th  arrived  at  the  forks  of  the  Jef- 
ferson, where  they  had  deposited  their  merchandise  in  August.  "  Most 
of  the  men  were  in  the  habit  of  chewing  tobacco,  and  such  was  their  ea- 
gerness to  procure  it,  after  so  long  a  privation,  that  they  scarcely  took 
the  saddles  from  their  horses  before  they  ran  to  the  cave,  and  were  de- 


E. 

!n  reloaded  and 
IS  Captain  Lewis 
through  the  left 
ithcr,  he  thought 
ed  several  times, 
ed  the  shot  must 
at,  calling  out  to 
'8.  He  then  or- 
the  Indians,  and 
forward  until  his 
He  then  ordered 

0  retreat  toward 
joat,  he  prepared 
his  life  dearly  in 
iety  he  remained 
:;3ruzatte,  and  re- 
'hood.  Cruzatte 
elk  afler  Captain 
ing  intentionally 
he  one  who  gave 
had  always  con- 
akcn  of  it.    The 

as  the  ball  had 

[  not  prove  fatal. 

ewis  had  a  high 

ilty,  he  remained 

ded  with  all  pos- 

two  Illinois  trad- 

before.     While 

ad  been  missing 

ss.    Afler  mak- 

at  one  o'clock 

ce. 

1  the  3d  of  July, 
ifteen  men  and 
alley  of  Clarke's 

)ur  to  do  honor 
festival  was  not 
s  and  a  saddle  of 
it."  On  the  6th 
ing  ridge  to  the 
forks  of  the  Jef- 
August.  "  Most 
icb  was  their  ea- 
ey  scarcely  took 
ve,  and  were  de- 


DESCENT    OP   THE    YELLOWSTONE. 


191 


lighted  at  being  able  to  resume  this  fascinating  indulgence.  This  was 
one  of  the  severest  privations  we  have  encountered.  Some  of  the  men, 
whose  tomahawks  were  so  constructed  as  to  answer  the  purpose  of  pipes, 
broke  the  handles  of  these  instruments,  and  after  cutting  them  into  small 
fragments,  chewed  them ;  the  wood  having,  by  frequent  smoking,  be- 
come strongly  impregnated  with  the  taste  of  that  plant."  They  found 
every  thing  safe,  though  some  of  the  goods  were  a  little  damp. 

The  canoes  were  raised,  and  the  preparations  for  the  journey  all  made 
by  the  10th,  when  Captain  Clarke  divided  his  men  into  two  bands,  the 
one  to  descend  the  river  with  the  baggage,  and  the  other  to  proceed 
with  him  on  horseback  to  the  Yellowstone.  After  breakfast  they  set  o.  " 
and  at  the  distance  of  fifteen  miles  the  two  parties  stopped  to  dine,  when 
Captain  Clarke,  finding  that  the  river  became  wider  and  deeper,  and 
that  the  canoes  could  advance  more  rapidly  than  the  horses,  determined 
to  go  himself  by  water,  leaving  Sergeant  Pryor  with  six  men  to  bring 
on  the  horses.  They  reached  the  entrance  of  Madison  River  at  noon  on 
the  13th,  where  Sergeant  Pryor  had  arrived  with  the  horses  an  hour  be- 
fore. The  horses  were  then  driven  across  Madison  and  Gallatin  Rivers, 
and  the  whole  party  halted  to  dine  and  unload  the  canoes  below  the 
mouth  of  the  latter.  Here  the  two  parties  separated  ;  Sergeant  Ordway 
with  nine  men  set  out  in  six  canoes  to  descend  the  river,  while  Captain 
Clarke  with  the  remaining  ten,  and  the  wife  and  child  of  Chaboneau, 
were  to  proceed  by  land  with  fifty  horses  to  Yellowstone  River. 

They  set  out  at  five  in  the  afternoon  from  the  Forks  of  the  Missouri, 
in  a  direction  nearly  eastward.  On  the  15th,  they  pursued  a  buffalo 
road  over  a  low  gap  in  the  mountain,  to  the  heads  of  the  eastern  fork 
of  Gallatin  River,  where  they  reached  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  Avaters 
of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellowstone ;  and  on  descending  the  ridge, 
they  struck  one  of  the  streams  of  the  latter  river.  Nine  miles  from  the 
top  of  the  ridge  they  reached  the  Yellowstone  itself,  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  from  where  it  issues  from  the  Rocky  Mountains.  They  pursued 
their  journey  down  the  banks  of  the  river  until  the  20th,  when  Captain 
Clarke  determined  to  make  two  canoes,  which,  being  lashed  together, 
might  convey  the  party  down  the  river,  while  a  few  men  should  lead 
the  horses  to  the  Mandan  nation.  The  horses  were  turned  out  to  rest 
for  a  few  days,  but  in  the  morning  twenty-four  of  them  were  missing, 
and  although  the  search  for  them  was  continued  for  several  days,  they 
were  not  seen  afterward.  One  day  a  piece  of  robe  and  a  moccasin  were 
found  not  far  from  the  camp,  and  it  became  evident  that  the  Indians  had 
stolen  the  horses. 

At  length  the  canoes  were  finished  and  lashed  together,  and  every 
thing  being  prepared,  the  parties  set  out  on  the  24th.  Sergeant  Pryor 
was  directed,  with  Shannon  and  Windsor,  to  take  the  horses  to  the 
Mandans,  and  if  Mr.  Henry  was  on  the  Assiniboin  River,  to  go  thither 
and  deliver  him  a  letter,  the  object  of  which  was  to  prevail  on  the  most 
distinguished  chiefs  of  the  Sioux  to  accompany  him  to  Washington. 


,:y 


I 


192 


TRAVELS   OP    LEWIS    AND    OLARKl 


Captain  Clarke  embarked  on  the  little  flotUla,  and  proceeded  very 

steadily  down  the  river.  ,    ,   ,     .        .        ^   , 

At  2  o'clock  on  the  3d  of  August,  they  reached  the  junction  of  the 
Yellowstone  with  the 'Missouri,  and  formed  a  camp  on  the  point  where 
they  had  encamped  on  the  26th  of  April,  1805.  The  canoes  were 
now  unloaded,  and  the  baggago  exposed  to  dry,  as  many  of  the  artHes 
were  wet,  and  some  of  them  spoiled.  Next  day  they  found  their  camp 
absolutely  uninhabitable  m  consequence  of  the  multitude  of  mosquitoes ; 
the  men  could  not  work  in  preparing  skins  for  clothing,  nor  hunt  in  the 
timbered  low  grounds ;  in  short,  there  was  no  mode  of  escape  except 
by  going  on  the  sandbars  in  the  river,  whero,  if  the  wmd  blew,  the 
insects  did  not  venture ;  but  when  there  was  no  wind,  and  particularly 
at  night,  they  could  hardly  be  endured.  Captain  Clarke  therefore 
determined  to  seek  better  quarters,  and  leaving  a  note  on  a  pole  at 
the  confluence  of  the  two  rivers,  proceeded  down  the  Missouri. 

On  the  8th,  they  were  joined  by  Sergeant  Pryor,  with  Shannon, 
Hall,  and  Wilson,  but  without  the  horses.  These  had  been  stolen  from 
them  by  the  Indians  on  the  second  night  after  they  had  left  Captain 
Clarke.  In  the  morning  they  had  pursued  the  tracks  five  miles,  when 
they  divided  into  two  parties.  They  followed  the  larger  party  five  miles 
further,  tiU  they  lost  aU  hope  of  overtaking  the  Indians,  and  returned 
to  camp;  and  packing  the  baggage  on  their  backs  pursued  a  north- 
east  course  toward  the  Yellowstone.  Having  reached  the  nyer,  they 
descended  it  in  two  skin  canoes,  which  they  made  for  the  occasion. 

In  proceeding  further  down  the  river.  Captain  Clarke  had  stopped 
with  Dickson  and  Hancock,  two  Illmois  traders,  on  the  11th.  The  party 
contmued  slowly  to  descend,  when,  on  the  12th,  one  of  the  skm  canoes 
was  by  accident  pierced  with  a  small  hole,  and  while  they  stopped  to 
mend  it,  they  were  overjoyed  at  seeing  Captain  Lewis's  boats  heave  m 
sight  about  noon.  But  they  were  alarmed  on  seeing  the  boats  reach 
the  shore  without  Captain  Lewis,  who,  they  learned,  had  been  wounded 
the  day  before,  and  was  then  lymg  in  the  perioque.  After  attending 
to  his  wound  they  remained  here  a  while,  and  were  overtaken  by  their 
two  men,  accompanied  by  Dickson  and  Hancock,  who  wished  to  go 
with  them  as  far  as  the  Mandans.  The  whole  party  being  now  happUy 
re-united,  they  all  embarked  together. 

On  the  14th,  they  approached  the  grand  vUlage  of  the  Mmnetarees, 
where  the  natives  collected  to  view  them  aa  they  passed.  They  fired  a 
blunderbuss  several  times  by  way  of  salute,  and  soon  afterward  landed 
near  the  village  of  the  Mahahas,  or  Shoe  Indians,  and  were  received 
by  a  crowd  of  people  who  came  to  welcome  their  return. 

"In  the  evening  we  were  applied  to  by  one  of  our  men,  Colter,  who 
was  desirous  of  joining  the  two  trappers  who  had  accompanied  us,  and 
who  now  proposed  an  expedition  up  the  river,  in  which  they  were  to 
find  traps,  and  give  him  a  share  of  the  profits.  The  offer  was  a  very 
advantageous  one,  and  as  he  had  always  performed  his  duty,  and  his 


proceeded  very 

e  junction  of  the    ' 
the  point  where    j 
rhe  canoes  were    ! 
iny  of  the  articles    ' 
found  their  camp    } 
le  of  mosquitoes;    ' 
J,  nor  hunt  in  the 
of  escape  except    , 
s  wind  blew,  the    j 
,  and  particularly    | 
Clarke  therefore    | 
lOte  on  a  pole  at 
Missouri.  ! 

)r,  with  Shannon,    j 
I  been  stolen  from    ' 
T  had  left  Captain 
s  five  miles,  when 
er  party  five  miles 
ans,  and  returned 
pursued  a  north- 
ed the  river,  they 
the  occasion, 
larke  had  stopped 
;  11th.   The  party 
[)f  the  skin  canoes 
le  they  stopped  to 
is'8  boats  heave  in 
g  the  boats  reach 
lad  been  wounded 
After  attending 
overtaken  by  their 
v'ho  wished  to  go 
being  now  happily 

f  the  Minnetarees, 
sed.    They  fired  a 

afterward  landed 
md  were  received 
im. 

r  men.  Colter,  who 
companied  us,  and 
hich  they  were  to 
e  offer  was  a  very 

his  duty,  and  his 


RETURN    TO    CIVILIZATION. 


193 


services  niiglit  be  dispensed  with,  we  agreed  that  he  might  go,  provided 
none  of  the  rest  would  ask,  or  expect  a  similar  indulgetice.  To  this  they 
cheerfully  answered  that  they  wished  Colter  every  success,  and  would 
not  apply  for  liberty  to  separate  before  wo  reached  St.  Louis.  We 
thereibrc  supplied  him,  as  did  his  comrades  also,  with  powder  and  lead, 
and  a  variety  of  articles  which  might  be  useful  to  him,  and  he  loft  us 
tlic  next  day.  The  example  of  this  man  shows  how  easily  men  may  be 
weaned  from  the  habits  of  a  civilized  life  to  the  ruder  but  scarcely 
less  fascinating  manners  of  the  woods." 

On  the  16th  the  principal  chiefs  of  the  Minetarees  cam**  down  to  bid 
them  farewell,  as  none  of  them  could  be  prevailed  on  to  go  with  tho 
party.  This  induced  Chaboneau,  the  interpreter,  with  his  wife  and 
child,  to  leave,  as  he  could  be  no  longer  useful,  and  having  no  acquahit- 
ancc  in  the  United  States  nor  means  of  making  a  livelihood  there,  he 
preferred  remaining  among  the  Indians.  This  man  had  been  very  serv- 
iceable to  the  expedition,  and  his  wife  particularly  useful  among  the 
Shoshonees.  She  had  borne  with  admirable  patience  the  fatigue  of  the 
long  journey,  encumbered  with  an  infant  who  was  yet  only  nineteen 
months  old.  They  therefore  paid  him  his  wages  and  dropped  down  to 
the  village  of  the  chief  Bigwhite,  who  was  to  accompany  them  with  his 
wife  and  son.  All  the  chiefs  accompanied  them  on.shore,  to  take  leave 
of  him.  They  found  him  surrounded  by  his  friends,  who  sat  in  a  circle 
smoking,  while  the  Avomen  were  crying.  He  immediately  sent  his  wife 
and  son,  with  their  baggage,  on  board,  then,  after  distributing  among 
his  friends  some  powder  and  ball,  and  smoking  with  the  white  men, 
went  with  them  to  the  river  side.  The  whole  village  crowded  about 
them,  and  many  of  the  people  wept  aloud  at  the  departure  of  their 
chief. 

On  the  3d  of  September  they  were  delighted  by  hearing  the  first 
news  from  their  country,  from  a  trader  who  had  lately  passed  through 
St.  Louis,  and  with  whom  they  encamped  for  the  night.  Near  the  Little 
Sioux  River,  on  the  6th,  they  met  a  trading  boat  of  St.  Louis,  with 
several  men  on  their  way  to  trade  with  the  Yanktons  at  the  river 
Jacques.  They  obtained  of  them  a  gallon  of  whiskey,  and  gave  each 
of  the  party  a  dram,  which  was  the  first  spirituous  liquor  any  of  them 
had  tasted  since  the  4th  of  July,  1805.  On  the  17th  they  passed  tho 
island  of  the  Little  Osage  village.  Thirty  miles  below  they  met  a  Cap- 
tain M'Clellan,  lately  of  the  United  States  Army,  with  whom  they  en- 
camped. He  informed  them  that  the  general  opinion  in  the  United 
States  was  that  they  were  lost ;  the  last  accounts  which  had  been  heard 
from  them  being  from  the  Mandan  Aallages. 

At  length,  as  the  hunters  were  not  very  successful,  their  stock  of 
provisions  became  very  low,  though  it  was  partially  supplied  by  an 
abundance  of  papaws ;  several  of  the  party  were  also  attacked  with  a 
soreness  of  the  eyes,  which  was  extremely  painful,  particularly  when  ex- 
posed to  the  light.    Three  of  the  men  were  so  much  affected  by  it  as  to 

13 


''%. 


194 


TRAVELS  OF  LEWIS  AND  CLARKE. 


be  unable  to  row ;  they  therefore  turned  two  of  the  boats  adnft  on  the 
19th,  and  distributed  the  men  among  the  other  canoes 
^'Lnrcla.j,  September  20th.     Near  the  mouth  oi    he  Gasconado, 
where  we  arrived  at  noon,  we  met  five  Frenchmen  on  the.r  way  to  the 
Sreat  Osage  village.     As  we  moved  along  rapidly  we  saw  on  the  banks 
Bome  cows  feeding,  and  the  whole  party  almost  myoluntan ly  ra.sed  a 
hout  of  joy  at  seehig  this  Image  of  civilization  and  .h,mestic  hto.    Soon 
IfterW  reached  the  little  French  village  of  La  Charette,  winch  we 
Ited  with  a  discharge  of  four  guns  and  three  '--^y  cheers^  Ih^^^^ 
were  all  c  mally  surprised  and  pleased  at  our  arrival,  ft  r  they  had  long 
Tin  e  abandoiil  all  hope  of  ever  seeing  us  return.    Next  morning  we 
Zceedecl,  and  as  several  settlements  had  been  made  during  our  ab- 
sen  et"  were  refreshed  with  the  sight  of  men  and  catt  e  ^ong    he 
bank       At  length,  after  coming  forty-eight  miles,  we  sa  uted,  with  heart- 
feirsatisfoctionfthe  village  of  St.  Charles,  and  on  landing  were  trc-a  ed 
wltirtSgreat^st  hospitality  and  kindness  by  all  the  mhabitants  of  the 

^^'^"V«.«c7ay,  23d.  Descended  to  the  Mississippi,  and  round  to  St. 
Louis  wher/ve  arrived  at  twelve  o'clock,  and  hanng  fired  a  salute, 
went  on  shore  and  received  the  heartiest  and  most  hospitable  welcome 
from  the  whole  village." 


joats  adrift  on  the 

jf  the  Gasoonadp, 
1  their  way  to  the 
!  saw  on  tlie  banks 
ohintarily  raised  a 
)mcstic  lit'o.    Soon 
harettc,  wiiich  we 
irty  cheers.    Thoy 
for  they  had  long 
Next  morning  wc 
do  during  our  ab- 
d  cattle  along  the 
saluted,  with  heart- 
ding  were  treated 
inhabitants  of  the 


and  round  to  St. 
•ing  fired  a  salute, 
hospitable  welcome 


€ 


tJ/'ii'iuf 


ntJ^ 


;J)^' 


MAP 

or 
RAVELS 

Iff 
LB     JXAST 


Jtiirhhanln  Kcnid: 


A. 


Pjtltl'Xira* 


BURCKIIARDT'S  TRAVELS 


IN    SYRIA,    AFRICA,    AND    ARABIA 


TRAVELS    IN    SYRIA. 


Joim  Lewis  BpRCKnxRDT,  tho  most  promment  amonj*  oriental 
travelers,  tho  discoverer  of  tlio  city  of  Petra,  and  the  first  Christian  trav- 
eler who  visited  Mecca  and  Medina,  was  a  Swiss,  descended  from  an 
eminent  family  of  Basle.  He  was  bom  at  Lausanne,  on  the  Lake  of 
Geneva,  in  the  year  1784.  He  was  the  eighth  child  of  John  Rodolph 
Burckhardt,  a  gentleman  of  wealth  and  intelligence,  whose  prospects  in 
life  were  early  blighted  by  his  adherence  to  the  Austrian  faction,  during 
the  troubles  in  Switzerland,  consequent  upon  tho  French  Revolution. 
He  was  at  one  time  tried  for  his  life,  and  was  obliged  to  fly  from  Basle 
in  order  to  save  his  family  from  total  ruin.  The  future  traveler  natu- 
rally grew  up  with  a  detestation  of  the  French  rule,  and  it  was  his  boy- 
ish desire  to  serve  in  the  armies  of  some  nation  at  war  with  France.  It 
was  his  fortune,  however,  to  be  destined  for  a  far  more  useful  and  heroic 
career. 

Burokhardt's  studies  were,  from  various  causes,  conducted  in  tho 
manner  best  calculated  to  create  and  nourish  restless  and  adventurous 
habits.  Having  received  the  first  rudiments  of  his  education  in  his 
father's  house,  he  was  removed  to  a  school  at  Neufohatel,  where  he  re- 
mained two  years.  At  the  age  of  sixteen  he  was  entered  as  a  student 
at  the  university  of  Leipzig ;  from  whence,  after  four  years'  residence, 
he  proceeded  to  Gottingen,  where  he  continued  another  year.  He  then 
returned  to  his  parents.  The  natural  firmness  and  consistency  of  his 
character,  of  which  his  countenance  was  strikingly  expressive,  still  taught 
him  to  keep  alive  his  hatred  to  the  French ;  but  no  continental  nation 
had  preserved  itself  wholly  free  from  the  influence  of  this  people ;  and 
therefore,  rejecting  an  offer  which  was  made  him  by  one  of  the  petty 
courts  of  Germany,  desirous  of  numbering  him  among  its  diplomatic 
body,  he  turned  his  thoughts  toward  England,  his  fether  having  formerly 
served  m  a  Swiss  corps,  in  English  pay.    Accordingly,  having  provided 


QIK  ■       I 


tm 


r 


$ 


1 


198 


LIFK  AND  TRAVELS  OF  BUUCKUARDT. 


himself  with  h'ttcrs  of  introduction  to  soviTal '  persons  of  distinction, 
uinon^  wliii-li  was  ono  from  Professor  Hlumonbauh  to  Sir  Joseph  ISunks, 
Loset  out  for  London,  where  he  arrived  in  tlie  montii  of  July,  1800. 

This  step  was  the  pivot  upon  which  the  whole  circle  of  his  short  life 
was  destined  to  tuni.  Ilis  introduction  to  Sir  Joseph  Banks,  who  had 
lonjj  hccn  anactivomemberof  the  African  Association,  almost  necessarily- 
brought  him  into  contact  with  several  other  individuals  connected  with 
that  celebrated  society ;  an<l  conversations  with  these  persons,  whoso 
cnthnsiasm  was  unbounded,  naturally  begot  in  Burckhardt  a  corrcsiwnd- 
ing  warmth,  and  transformed  him,  from  a  Quixotic  crusader  against  the 
French,  into  an  ardent,  ambitious  traveler. 

Upon  Burckliardt's  desire  to  travel  for  the  African  Association  being 
oomnmnicated  to  Sir  Joseph  Banks  and  Dr.  Hamilton,  then  acting  sec- 
retary to  that  body,  strong  representations  of  the  dangers  to  bo  en- 
countered in  the  execution  of  the  plan  were  made  to  the  youthful  aspi- 
rant ;  "  but,"  says  ono  of  his  biographers,  "  such  representations,  which 
are  a  delusive  kind  of  pcace-oft'ering  placed  for  form's  sake  on  the  altar 
of  conscience,  are  seldom  sincerely  designed  to  effect  their  apparent  pur- 
pose ;  and  the  actors  in  the  farce,  for  the  most  part,  experience  extreme 
chagrin  should  they  find  their  eloquence  ^ rove  Buccedsful." 

His  offer,  which  was  laid  before  the  association  at  the  general  meet- 
ing of  May,  1808,  was  willingly  accepted  ;  and  he  immediately  com- 
menced all  those  preparations  which  were  necessary  to  the  proper 
accomplishment  of  his  undertaking.  He  employed  himself  diligently  in 
the  study  of  the  Arabic  language  both  in  London  and  Cambridge,  as 
Avell  as  in  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  several  branches  of  science,  such  as 
chemistry,  astronomy,  mineralogy,  medicine,  and  surgery :  he  likewise 
allowed  liis  beard  to  grow,  assumed  the  oriental  dress,  "  and  in  the  in- 
tervals of  his  studies  exercised  himself  by  long  journeys  on  foot,  bare- 
headed, in  the  heat  of  the  sun,  sleeping  upon  the  ground,  and  living  upon 
vegetables  and  water." 

On  the  25th  of  January,  1809,  he  received  bis  instructions,  by  which 
ho  was  directed  to  proceed  in  the  first  instance  to  Syria,  where,  it  waa 
supposed,  he  might  complete  his  knowledge  of  the  Arabic,  and  acquire 
oriental  habits  and  manners  at  a  distance  from  the  scene  of  his  researches, 
and  where  he  was  not  Ukcly  to  meet  with  any  individuals  who  might 
afterward  recognize  him  at  an  inconvenient  moment.  After  spending 
two  years  in  Syria,  he  was  instructed  to  proceed  to  Cairo,  to  accompany 
the  Arab  caravan  to  Mourzuk,  in  Fezzan,  by  the  same  route  traversed 
by  the  unfortunate  Homemann,  and  to  make  that  place  the  point  of  his 
departure  for  the  interior  of  Africa. 

Burckhardt  sailed  from  Cowes  on  the  2d  of  March,  ''M09,  in  a  merchant- 
ship,  proceeded  to  the  Mediterranean,  and  arrived  at  Malta  in  the  middle 
of  April.  During  his  stay  at  this  place  he  completed  his  equipment  in 
the  oriental  manner  and  assumed  the  character  of  an  Indian  Moham- 
medan merchant,  bearing  dispatches  from  the  East  India  Company  to 


«1_ 


I 


.RDT. 

ins  of  distinction, 
Sir  JuHC'ph  Itanlu, 

of  July,  1800. 

lu  of  \m  short  lift* 
li  BankH,  who  )ia<i 

nlmoat  necessarily 
als  connected  with 
DHo  persons,  whost) 
lardt  a  eorrcspond- 
'usader  against  the 

n  Association  being 
tlicn  actuig  sec- 
dangerH  to  bo  cn- 
thc  youthful  aspi- 
)re3entations,  which 
s  sake  on  the  altar 
their  apparent  pur- 
experience  extreme 
^sful." 

t  the  general  meet- 
e  immediately  com- 
jary  to  the  proper 
himself  diligently  in 
and  Cambridge,  as 
s  of  science,  such  as 
lurgery :  he  likewise 
ess,  "  and  in  the  in- 
imeys  on  foot,  bare- 
)und,  and  living  upon 

istructions,  by  which 
Syria,  where,  it  was 
Arabic,  and  acquire 
sene  of  his  researches, 
iividuals  who  might 
jnt.  After  spending 
I  Cairo,  to  accompany 
ame  route  traversed 
place  the  point  of  his 

1,  ''(i09,  inaraerchant- 
,t  Malta  in  the  middle 
ed  his  equipment  in 
if  an  Indian  Moham- 
it  India  Company  to 


VOYAQK    TO    SYIUA. 


190 


Mr.  Barker,  liritish  co..  ,iil,  and  the  Company'^  agent  at  Aleppo.  Mean- 
while lui  carefully  avoided  all  intercourse  with  such  i)L'i-80im  from  Uar- 
bary  as  happened  to  be  in  the  island ;  and  when  ho  met  parties  of  them 
in  the  street,  as  ho  often  did,  the  salaam  aleikoom  (peace  be  with  you !) 
given  and  returned,  was  all  that  passed  between  them.  There  was  at 
this  time  a  Swiss  regiment  in  the  English  service  at  Malta,  to  many  of 
the  (ifHi'ors  of  which  Burckhardt  was  personally  known.  To  be  recog- 
nized by  these  gentlemen  would  at  once  have  proved  fatal  to  his  assumed 
character ;  ho  therefore  appeared  in  public  cautiously,  and  but  seldom ; 
but  had  at  length  the  satisfaction  of  finding  that  his  disguise  was  so  com- 
plete as  to  enable  him  to  pass  unknown  and  imnoticed. 

lie  entered  into  arrangements  with  a  Greek  respecting  his  passage 
from  Malta  to  Cyprus ;  but  on  the  very  morning  of  his  expected  depart- 
ure he  received  information  that  the  owner  of  the  ship  had  directed  the 
captain  to  proceed  to  Tripoli.  His  baggage  was  in  consequence  trans- 
ferred to  another  ship,  said  to  bo  bound  to  the  same  island ;  "  but  the 
very  moment  I  was  embarking,"  says  Burckhardt,  "  tho  new  captain  told 
mo  that  he  was  not  quite  stiro  whether  ho  should  touch  at  Cyprus,  his 
ship  being  properly  bound  for  Acre.  I  had  now  tho  option  to  wait  at 
Malta,  j)erhaps  another  month  or  two,  for  an  opportunity  for  Cyprus  or 
the  coast  of  Syria,  or  to  run  tho  chance  of  disembarking  at  a  place  where 
there  was  no  person  whatever  to  Avhom  I  could  apply  for  advice  or  pro- 
tection. Luckily  an  Arab  of  Acre,  then  at  Malta,  happened  to  bo  known 
to  Mr.  Barker,  jr. ;  in  half  an  hour's  time  a  letter  from  a  merchant  at 
Acre,  with  another  in  case  of  need  for  tho  pasha,  were  procured,  and  I 
embarked  and  sailed  tho  same  morning  in  the  hope  of  finding,  when  ar- 
rived at  Acre,  a  passage  for  Tripoli  (Syria),  or  for  Latakia.  However, 
we  were  no  sooner  out  of  sight  of  tho  island  than  it  was  made  known  to 
me  that  the  real  destination  of  the  ship  was  tho  coast  of  Caramania,  that 
the  captain  had  orders  to  touch  first  at  the  port  of  Satalia,  then  at  that 
of  Tarsus ;  and  that  if  grain  could  not  be  purchased  at  an  advantageous 
price  at  either  of  these  places,  in  that  case  only  ho  was  to  proceed  to 
Acre.  My  remonstrances  with  the  captain  would  have  been  Vain  ;  noth- 
ing was  left  to  mo  but  to  cultivate  his  good  graces  and  those  of  my 
fellow-travelers,  as  the  progress  of  my  journey  must  depend  greatly 
upon  their  good  offices.  The  passengers  consisted,  to  my  astonishment, 
of  a  rich  Ti'ipoline  merchant,  who  o\vned  part  of  the  ship,  two  other 
Tripolines,  and  two  negro  slaves.  I  introduced  myself  among  them  as 
an  Indian  Mohammedan  merchant,  who  had  been  from  early  years  in 
England,  and  was  now  on  his  way  home ;  and  I  had  the  good  fortune  to 
make  my  story  credible  enough  to  the  passengers,  as  well  as  to  the  ship's 
company.  During  the  course  of  our  voyage  numerous  questions  were 
put  to  me  relative  to  India,  its  inhabitants  and  its  language,  which  I 
answered  as  well  as  I  could.  Whenever  I  was  asked  for  a  specimen  of 
the  Hindoo  language,  I  answered  in  the  worst  dialect  of  the  Swiss  Ger- 
man, almost  unintelligible  even  to  a  German,  and  which,  in  its  guttural 


200 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS    OF    BURCKHARDT. 


Bounds,  may  fairly  rival  tlic  harshest  utterance  of  Arabic.  Every  even- 
ing we  assembled  u[x>n  deck  to  enjoy  the  cooling  sea-breeze  and  o  smoke 
our  pipes.  While  one  of  the  sailors  was  amusing  his  compai-ions  with 
story-telling,  I  was  called  upon  to  relate  to  my  companions  the  wonders 
of  the  furthest  cast — of  the  Great  Mogul  and  the  riches  of  his  court — 
of  the  Avidows  in  Hindostan  burning  themselves — of  the  Chinese,  their 
wall,  and  great  porcelain  tower,"  etc. 

They  sailed  along  the  southern  coast  of  Candia,  saw  Rhodes  at  a  great 
distance,  and  arrived  in  a  few  c;iys  at  Satalia,  in  Caramania.  Here  the 
plague,  it  was  found,  was  raging  in  the  town ;  but  this  circumstance  did 
not  prevent  the  Tripoline  merchant  from  landing  and  disposing  of  his 
merchandise,  nor  the  captain  from  receiving  him  again  on  board.  Wlien 
their  business  with  this  town  was  completed,  they  again  set  sail,  and  af- 
ter coasting  for  three  days  along  the  shore  of  Caramania,  arrived  in  the 
roads  of  Mersin,  from  whence  Burckhardt  and  several  of  his  companions 
proceeded  by  land  on  an  excursion  to  Tarsus.  Finding  here  a  ship  bound 
for  the  coast  of  Syria,  the  traveler  left  the  Maltese  vessel  in  order  to  pro- 
ceed by  this  new  conveyance  :  "  In  taking  leave  of  the  Tripoline,"  says 
he,  "  I  took  off  my  sash,  a  sort  of  red  cambric  shawl,  of  Glasgow  manu- 
facture, which  he  had  always  much  admired,  thinking  it  to  be  Indian 
stuff,  and  presented  it  to  liim  as  a  keepsake  or  reward  for  his  good  serv- 
ices. He  immediately  unloosened  hia  turban,  and  twisted  the  shawl  in 
its  stead  around  his  head :  making  me  many  professions  of  friendship, 
and  assuring  me  of  his  hospitality,  if  e\  er  the  chance  of  mercantile  pur- 
suits should  again  engage  me  to  visit  the  Mediterranean,  and  perhaps 
Tripoli,  in  Barbary." 

Burckhardt  reached  the  coast  of  Syria  at  that  point  where  the  Aasi, 
the  ancient  Orontes,  falls  into  the  sea ;  and  immediately  prepared  to  de- 
part for  Aleppo  with  a  caravan.  Having  been  intrusted  with  several 
chests  for  the  British  consul  at  Aleppo,  his  baggage  appeared  considera- 
ble, and  ho  was  consequently  sent  for  by  the  aga,  who  expected  a  hand- 
some present  for  permitting  it  to  pass.  When  questioned  by  this  officer 
respecting  the  contents  of  the  chests,  he  replied  that  he  was  entirely  ig- 
norant of  the  matter,  but  suspected  that  among  other  things  there  was  a 
sort  of  Frank  drink,  called  beer^  with  various  kinds  of  eatables.  The  aga 
now  sent  an  officer  to  examine  them.  A  bottle  of  beer  having  been  bro- 
ken in  loading,  "  the  man  tasted  it  by  putting  his  finger  into  the  liquor, 
and  found  it  abominably  bitter ;  such  was  his  report  to  the  aga.  As  a 
sample  of  the  eatables,  he  produced  a  potato  which  he  had  taken  out  of 
one  of  the  barrels,  and  that  noble  root  excited  general  laugliter  in  the 
room.  *  It  is  well  worth  while,'  they  said,  '  to  send  such  stuff  to  such  a 
distance.'  The  aga  tasted  of  the  raw  potato,  and  spitting  it  out  again, 
swore  at  the  Frank's  stomach  which  could  bear  such  food."  The  mean 
opinion  to  which  these  specimens  gave  rise,  inclined  tlie  aga  to  be  con- 
tent with  the  trifling  sum  of  ten  piasters,  which  he  probably  thought 
more  than  the  value  of  a  whole  ship's  cargo  of  potatoes  and  beer. 


iARDT. 

rabic.  Every  even- 
jreeze  and  o  smoke 
lia  compai-ions  with 
tnnions  tlie  wonders 
ches  of  liis  court — 
'  the  Chinese,  their 

w  Rhodes  at  a  great 
raniania.  Here  the 
his  circumstance  did 
and  disposing  of  his 
in  on  board.  Wlien 
[igain  set  sail,  and  af- 
nania,  arrived  in  the 
•al  of  his  companions 
ng  here  a  ship  bound 
essel  in  order  to  pro- 
the  Tripoline,"  says 
1,  of  Glasgow  manu- 
iking  it  to  be  Indian 
rd  for  his  good  serv- 
twisted  the  shawl  in 
"essions  of  friendship, 
:e  of  mercantile  pur- 
rranean,  and  perhaps 

point  where  the  Aasi, 
ately  prepared  to  de- 
itrusted  with  several 
e  appeared  considera- 
ivho  expected  a  hand- 
stioned  by  this  officer 
at  he  was  entirely  ig- 
icr  things  there  was  a 
of  eatables.  The  aga 
jeer  having  been  bro- 
inger  into  the  liquor, 
ort  to  the  aga.  As  a 
1  he  had  taken  out  of 
neral  laughter  in  the 
I  such  stuff  to  such  a 
spitting  it  out  again, 
ch  food."  Tlie  mean 
ed  the  aga  to  be  con- 
he  probably  thought 
itoea  and  beer. 


RESIDENCE    AT   ALEPPO. 


201 


Upon  the  arrival  of  the  caravan  at  Antioch,  Burckhardt,  desirous  of 
studying  the  manners  of  all  ranks  of  men,  took  up  his  quarters  in  the  khan 
of  the  muleteers,  where,  from  a  suspicion  that  he  was  a  Frank  in  dis- 
guise, he  was  subjected  to  numerous  indignities.  The  aga's  dragoman, 
some  wretched  Frenchman,  or  Piedmontese,  being  sent  by  his  master  to 
discover  the  truth,  and  failing  to  effect  his  purpose  by  any  other  means, 
determined,  as  a  last  resource,  on  pulling  him  by  the  beard,  and  at  the 
same  time  asked  him  familiarly  why  he  had  suffered  such  a  thing  to  grow  ? 
To  this  Burckhardt  replied  by  striking  him  on  the  face,  which  turned 
the  laugh  against  the  poor  dragoman,  and  was  an  argument  so  peculiarly 
Mohammcdam,  that  it  seems  to  have  convinced  the  bystanders  of  the 
truth  of  his  assertions. 

After  a  delay  of  four  days  he  continued  his  journey  with  the  cara- 
van, with  the  motley  members  of  which  he  was  compelled  to  maintain 
an  unceasing  struggle  in  defense  of  his  assumed  character ;  a  circum- 
stance which  proves  one  of  two  things,  either  that  the  Sonnees  of  the 
west  have  by  intercourse  with  Europeans  been  rendered  more  acute 
in  discovering  impostors,  than  the  Sheeahs  of  Afghanistan  and  northern 
Persia,  or  that  Burckhardt  was  hitherto  somewhat  unskillful  in  his  movcr 
ments.  On  his  arrival  at  Aleppo,  he  determined,  in  pursuance  of  th^ 
ad/ice  of  Mr.  Barker,  to  put  off  his  Mohammedan  disguise,  though  ho 
still  retained  the  Turkish  dress ;  and  with  the  aid  of  an  able  master, 
recommenced  the  study  of  the  Arabic,  both  literal  and  vulgar.  He 
was  attacked,  however,  shortly  after  his  arrival,  by  a  strong  inflam- 
matory fever,  which  lasted  a  fortnight ;  it  was  occasioned,  as  he  con- 
jectured, by  the  want  of  sleep,  of  which  blessing  he  had  been  deprived 
by  the  prodigious  colonies  of  fleas  which  had  established  themselves  in 
his  garments  during  his  stay  at  the  khan  of  Antioch.  When  this  sea- 
soning was  over,  his  health  appeared  to  be  improved,  and  he  found  the 
climate  finer,  and  more  salubrious  than  he  had  expected. 

During  his  stay  in  this  city,  which  was  a  very  protracted  one,  Burck- 
hardt labored  assiduously  in  fitting  himself  for  the  honorable  perform- 
ance of  the  task  he  had  undertaken.  His  Arabic  studies  were  uninter- 
rupted. Besides  seizing  eagerly  on  every  opportunity  of  improving 
himself  by  conversation  with  the  natives,  he  labored  at  an  attempt  to 
transform  "  Robinson  Crusoe"  into  an  Arabian  tale.  He  moreover  suc- 
ceeded in  making  the  acquaintance  of  several  shekhs,  and  other  literary 
men,  who  hontred  him  occasionally  with  a  visit ;  a  favor,  he  says,  which 
he  owed  prmcipally  to  Mr.  Wilkins's  "  Arabic  and  Persian  Dictionary." 
The  ordinary  lexicons  of  the  country  being  very  defective,  the  learned 
Turks  were  often  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  Wilkins,  whose  learning 
and  exactness  sometimes  compelled  them  to  exclaim,  "  How  wonder- 
ful that  a  Frank  should  know  more  of  our  language  than  our  first 
ulemr«3 !" 

In  the  month  of  July,  1810,  Burckhardt  departed  from  Aleppo  under 
the  protection  of  an  Arab  shekh,  of  the  Aneyzeh  tribe,  who  undertook 


i 


/J 


I 


-^.■y.».^..tor  ■  ->-':„...1  ■  -,l   ■"'••  II  II  fc  ■' 


202 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  BURCKnARDT. 


to  escort  ^lira  to  Palmyra,  and  thence  through  the  Ilauran  to  Damascus. 
On  the  way  they  were  attacked,  Avhile  the  shekh  was  absent  at  a  water- 
ing-place, by  hostile  Arabs,  by  whom  our  traveler  was  robbed  of  his 
watch  and  compass ;  after  Avhich  ho  pushed  on  into  the  desert  to  rejoin 
the  chief.    Contrary  to  the  well-known  faith  of  the  Arabs,  this  man 
transferred  to  another  the  protection  of  his  guest,  thereby  exposing  him 
to  be  robbed  a  second  time,  at  Palmyra,  where  the  bandit  in  authority, 
finding  that  ho  had  no  money,  contented  himsdf  with  seizing  upon  his 
saddle.    Returning  from  these  ruins,  he  found  at  Ycbrud  a  letter  from 
the  shekh,  forbidding  him  to  proceed  toward  the  Hauran,  because,  as 
the  writer  asserted,  the  invasion  of  the  Wahabccs  had  rendered  that 
portion  of  the  country  unsafe,  even  to  himself  and  his  Arabs.     In  con- 
sequence of  this  fraudulent  conduct  of  the  shekh,  for  the  excuse  was  a 
fiction,  he  found  himself  necessitated  to  take  the  road  to  Damascus; 
disappointed  in  part,  but  upon  the  whole  well  satisfied  with  having  bo- 
held  those  magnificent  ruins  in  the  desert  which  have  charmed  so  many 
strangers,  and  Avith  having  at  the  same  time  enjoyed  so  many  occasions 
of  observing  the  Bedouins  under  their  own  tents,  where  he  was  every- 
where received  with  hospitality  and  kindness. 

After   proceeding  southward  to  the  territory  of  the   Druses,  and 
Mount  Ilermon,  he  returned  to  Damascus;  whence,  after  a  short  stay, 
he  made  an  excursion  into  the  Hauran,  the  patrimony  of  Abraham, 
which  four  years  before  had  been  in  part  visited  by  Dr.  Seetzcn,  pre- 
vious to  his  tour  round  the  Dead  Sea.     "  During  a  fatiguing  journey 
of  twenty-six  days,"  says  Burckhardt,  "  I  explored  this  country  as  far 
as  five  days'  journey  to  the  south  and  south-east  of  Damascus ;  I  went 
over  the  whole  of  the  Jebel  Hauran,  or  mountain  of  the  Druses,  who 
have  in  these  parts  a  settlement  of  about  twenty  villages ;  I  passed 
Bozra,  a  place  mentioned  in  the  books  of  Moses,  and  not  to  be  con- 
founded with  Boostra ;  I  then  entered  the  desert  to  the  south-east  of  it, 
and  returned  afterward  to  Damascus  through  the  rocky  district  on  the 
foot  of  the  Jebel  Hauran,  caUed  El  Leja.    At  every  step  I  found  ves- 
tiges of  ancient  cities;  saw  the  remams  of  many  temples,  public  edifices, 
and   Greek  churches;   met  at  Shohbe  with  a  well-preserved  amphi- 
theatre, at  other  places  with  numbers  of  still  standing  columns,  and 
had  opportunities  of  copying  many  Greek  inscriptions,  which  may  serve 
to  throw  some  light  upon  the  history  of  this  almost  forgotten  corner. 
The  inscriptions  are,  for  the  greater  part,  of  the  lower  empire,  but  some 
of  the  most  elegant  ruins  have  their  inscriptions  dated  from  the  reigns 
of  Trajan,  and  M.  Aurelius.    The  Hauran,  with  its  adjacent  districts,  ia 
the  spring  and  summer  rendezvous  of  most  of  the  Arab  tribes,  who  in- 
habit in  Avinter-time  the  great  Syrian  desert,  called  by  them  El  Ham- 
mad.    They  approach  the  cultivated  lands  in  search  of  grass,  water, 
and  corn,  of  which  last  they  buy  up  in  the  Hauran  their  yeariy  pro- 
vision." 

Having  to  a  certain  extent  satisfied  his  curiosity  respectmg  this  ob- 


RDT. 

iran  to  Damascus, 
absent  at  a  water- 
as  robbed  of  his 
le  desert  to  rejoin 
Arabs,  this  man 
eby  exposing  liim 
indit  in  authority, 
h  seizing  upon  his 
brud  a  letter  from 
auran,  because,  as 
ad  rendered  that 
Arabs.  In  con- 
tho  excuse  was  a 

)ad  to  Damascus; 

id  with  having  be- 
charmed  so  many 

so  many  occasions 

lere  he  was  every- 

the  Druses,  and 
,  after  a  short  stay, 
nony  of  Abraham, 
y  Dr.  Seetzen,  pre- 

fatiguing  journey 
this  country  as  far 
Damascus;  I  went 
of  the  Druses,  who 

villages;  I  passed 
,nd  not  to  bo  con- 
bhe  south-east  of  it, 
)cky  district  on  the 
y  step  I  found  ves- 
>les,  public  edifices, 
l-preserved  amphi- 
iding  columns,  and 
s,  which  may  serve 
it  forgotten  comer, 
r  empire,  but  some 
ted  from  the  reigns 
idjacent  districts,  is 
Lrab  tribes,  who  in- 
bythem  El  Ham- 
!h  of  grass,  water, 
a  their  yearly  pro- 
respecting  this  ob- 


EXCURSION    INTO   THE   SYRIAN   DESERT. 


203 


scure  region,  he  returned  by  way  of  Horns  and  Ilamah  toward  Aleppo, 
where  ho  arrived  on  the  New-year's  day  of  1811.  He  now  meditated 
an  excursion  into  the  desert  toward  the  Euphrates,  but  was  for  some 
time  prevented  from  putting  his  design  in  execution  by  the  troubled 
state  of  the  country,  two  powerful  Arab  tribes,  the  one  inimical,  the 
other  friendly  to  tho  Aleppines,  having  been  for  many  months  at  war 
with  each  other.  Burckhardt  at  length  succeeded,  however,  in  placing 
himself  under  the  protection  of  the  Shekh  of  Sukhne,  and  set  out  to- 
wai  1  the  desert ;  but  his  own  account  of  this  journey  was  lost,  and  all 
thai  can  now  be  knov/n  of  it  is  to  be  gathered  from  a  letter  from  Mr. 
Barker,  the  former  celebrated  British  consul  at  Aleppo.  "  One  hundred 
and  twenty,  or  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  below  the  ruins  of  Membi- 
geh,  in  the  Zor,"  says  this  gentleman,  "  there  is  a  tract  on  tho  banks  of 
the  Euphrates  possessed  by  a  tribe  of  very  savage  Arabs.  Not  far  from 
them  is  the  village  of  Sukhne,  at  the  distance  of  five  days  from  Aleppo, 
and  of  twelve  hours  from  Palmyra,  in  the  road  which  Zenobia  in  her 
flight  took  to  gain  the  Euphrates.  The  people  of  Sukhne  are  sedentary 
Arabs,  of  a  breed  half  Fellah  and  half  Bedouin.  They  bring  to  Aleppo 
alkali  and  ostrich  feathers.  It  was  upon  one  of  these  visits  of  the  Shekh 
of  Sukhne  to  Aleppo,  that  Burckhardt,  after  some  negotiation,  resolved 
to  accept  the  protection  of  the  shekh,  who  undertook,  upon  their  arrival 
at  his  village,  to  place  him  under  tho  protection  of  s.  Bedouin  of  suffi- 
cient influence  to  procure  him  a  safe  passage  through  the  tribes  of  the 
country  which  he  wished  to  explore.  Burckhardt  had  reason  to  be 
satisfied  both  with  the  Shekh  of  Sukhne,  and  with  the  Arab  whom  he 
procured  as  an  escort,  except  that,  in  the  end,  the  protection  of  the  lat- 
ler  proved  insufficient.  The  consequence  was  that  poor  Burckhardt  was 
stripped  to  the  skin,  and  he  returned  to  Sukhne,  his  body  blistered  with 
the  rays  ot  the  sun,  and  without  having  accomplished  any  of  the  objects 
of  his  journey.  It  was  in  this  excursion  to  the  desert  that  Burck- 
hardt had  so  hard  u  struggle  with  an  Arab  lady,  who  took  a  fancy  to 
the  only  garment  which  the  delicacy  or  compassion  of  the  men  had 
left  him." 

After  his  return  from  this  unfortunate  journey,  Burckhardt  was  de- 
layed for  a  considerable  time  at  Aleppo  by  incessant  rains ;  but  at  length, 
on  the  14th  of  February,  he  bade  this  city  a  final  adieu,  and  hastened 
once  more  to  Damascus.  He  was  desii'ous,  before  quitting  Syria,  of 
performing  another  journey  in  the  Hauran.  This  he  completed,  and 
having  transmitted  to  England  an  account  of  his  discoveries  in  this  ex- 
traordinary region,  he  departed  on  the  I8tli  of  June  for  the  Dead  Sea. 
Having  reached  Nazareth,  "  I  met  here,"  says  he,  "  a  couple  of  petty 
merchants  from  Szalt,  a  castle  in  the  mountains  of  Balka,  which  I  had 
not  been  able  to  see  during  my  late  tour,  and  which  lies  on  the  road  I 
had  pointed  out  to  myself  for  passing  into  the  Egyptian  deserts.  I 
joined  their  caravan ;  after  eight  hours'  march,  we  descended  into  the 
valley  of  the  Jordan,  called  El  Ghor,  near  Bysan ;  crossed  the  river,  and 


204 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OP   BURCKHARDT. 


continued  along  its  verdant  banks  for  about  ten  hours,  until  we  reached 
the  river  Zerka,  near  the  place  where  it  empties  itself  into  the  Jordan. 
Turning  then  to  our  left,  we  ascended  the  eastern  chain,  formerly  part  of 
the  district  of  Balka,  and  arrived  at  iSzalt,  two  long  days'  journey  from 
Nazareth.  The  inhabitants  of  Szalt  s^'e  entirely  independent  of  the 
Turkish  government ;  they  cultivate  the  ground  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance round  their  habitations,  and  part  of  them  live  the  whole  year  in 
tents,  to  watch  their  harvests  and  to  pasture  their  cattle.  Matty  ruined 
places  and  mountains  in  the  district  of  Balka  preserve  the  names  of  the 
Old  Testament,  and  elucidate  the  topography  of  the  province  that  fell 
to  the  share  of  the  tribes  of  Gad  and  Reuben.  Szalt  is  at  present  the 
only  inhabited  place  in  the  Balka,  but  numerous  Arab  tribes  pasture 
there  their  camels  and  sheep.  I  visited  from  thence  the  ruins  of  Am&n, 
or  Pliiladelphia,  five  hours  and  <^  half  distant  from  Szalt.  They  are  sit- 
uated in  a  valley  on  both  sides  oi  a  rivulet,  which  empties  itself  into 
the  Zerka.  A  large  amphitheater  is  the  most  remarkable  of  these  ruins, 
which  are  much  decayed,  and  in  every  respect  inferior  to  those  of  Jerash. 
At  four  or  five  hours  south-east  of  Amin  are  the  ruins  of  Om  Erresas 
and  El  Kotif,  which  I  could  not  see,  but  which,  according  to  report,  are 
more  considerable  than  those  of  Philadelphia.  The  want  of  communi- 
cation between  Szalt  and  the  southern  countries  delayed  my  departure 
for  upward  of  a  week.  I  found  at  last  a  guide,  and  we  reached  Kerek 
in  two  days  and  a  halfj  after  having  passed  the  deep  beds  of  the  torrents 
El  Wale  and  El  Mojeb,  which  I  suppose  to  be  the  Nahaliel  and  Amon. 
The  Mojeb  divides  the  district  of  Balka  from  that  of  Kerek,  as  it  for- 
merly  divided  the  Moabites  from  the  Amorites.  To  the  south  of  the 
wild  torrent  Mojeb  I  found  the  considerable  ruins  of  Rabbah  Moab ; 
and,  three  hours'  distance  from  them,  the  town  of  Kerek,  situated  at 
about  twelve  hours'  distance  to  the  east  of  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  Dead  Sea.    *    *    * 

"  The  treachery  of  the  Shekh  of  Kerek,  to  whom  I  had  been  par- 
ticularly recommended  by  a  grandee  of  Damascus,  obliged  me  to  stay 
at  Kerek  above  twenty  days.  After  having  annoyed  me  in  different 
ways,  he  permitted  me  to  accompany  him  southward,  or,  he  had  himself 
business  in  the  mountains  of  Djebal,  a  district  which  is  divided  from  that 
of  Kerek  by  the  deep  bed  of  the  torrent  El  Ahhsa,  or  El  Kahary,  eight 
hours'  distance  from  Kerek.  We  remained  for  ten  days  in  the  villages 
to  the  north  and  south  of  El  Ansa,  which  are  inhabited  by  Arabs,  who 
have  become  cultivators,  and  who  sell  the  produce  of  their  fields  to  the 
Bedouins.  The  shekh,  having  finished  his  business,  left  me  at  Beszeyra, 
a  village  about  sixteen  hours'  south  of  Kerek,  to  shift  for  myself,  after 
having  maliciously  recommended  me  to  the  care  of  a  Bedouin,  with 
whose  character  he  must  have  been  acquainted,  and  who  nearly  stripped 
me  of  the  remainder  of  my  money.  I  encountered  here  many  difficul- 
ties, was  obliged  to  walk  from  one  encampment  to  another,  until  I  found 
at  last  a  Bedouin  who  engaged  to  carry  me  to  Egypt.    In  his  company 


IRDT. 

until  we  reached 

into  the  Jordan. 

,  formerly  part  of 

lys'  journey  from 

ependcnt  of  the 

considerable  dis- 

e  whole  year  in 

lie.     Maity  ruined 

the  names  of  the 

Tovince  that  fell 

is  at  present  the 

,b  tribes  pasture 

e  ruins  of  Am&n, 

It.     They  are  sit- 

impties  itself  into 

kblc  of  these  ruins, 

tothoseof  Jerash. 

IS  of  Om  Erresas 

ling  to  report,  are 

^ant  of  communi- 

jred  my  departure 

re  reached  Kerck 

edsof  the  torrents 

^aliel  and  Amon. 

'  Kerek,  as  it  for- 

the  south  of  the 

}f  Rabbah  Moab ; 

E^erek,  situated  at 

liem  extremity  of 

I  I  had  been  par- 
)liged  me  to  stay 
id  :Tie  in  different 
ar,  he  had  himself 
divided  from  that 
•  El  Kahary,  eight 
ays  in  the  villages 
ed  by  Arabs,  who 
their  fields  to  the 
ft  me  at  Beszeyra, 
t  for  myself,  after 
'  a  Bedouin,  with 
bo  nearly  stripped 
ere  many  diffioul- 
ther,  until  I  found 
lu  his  company 


APPROACH   TO    PETRA. 


205 


I  continued  southward,  in  the  mountains  of  Shera,  which  are  divided 
to  the  north  from  Djebal  l;y  the  broad  valley  called  Ghoseyr,  at  about 
five  hours'  distance  from  Beszeyra.  The  chief  place  in  Djebal  is  Tafyle, 
and  in  Shera  the  castle  of  iShobak." 


DISCOVERT  OF    PBTRA. 

•'  The  valley  of  Ghor  is  continued  to  the  south  of  the  Dead  Sea ;  nt 
about  sixteen  hours'  distance  from  the  extremity  of  the  Dead  Sea  its 
name  is  changed  into  that  of  Araba,  and  it  runs  in  almost  a  straight  line, 
declining  somewhat  to  the  west,  as  far  as  Akaba,  at  the  extremity  of  the 
eastern  branch  of  the  Red  Sea.  The  existence  of  this  valley  appears  to 
have  been  unknown  to  ancient  as  well  as  modem  geographers,  although 
it  is  a  very  remarkable  feature  in  the  geography  of  Syria  and  Arabia 
Petrsea,  and  is  still  more  interestmg  for  its  productions.  In  this  valley 
the  manna  is  still  found  ;  it  drops  from  the  sprigs  of  several  trees,  but 
principally  from  the  Gharrab.  It  is  collected  by  the  Arabs,  who  make 
cakes  of  it,  and  who  eat  it  with  butter ;  they  call  it  Assal  Beyrook,  or 
the  honey  of  Beyrook.  Indigo,  gum-arabic,  and  the  silk-trce,  called 
Asheyr,  whose  fruit  incloses  a  white  silky  substance,  of  which  the  Arabs 
twist  their  matches,  grow  in  this  valley." 

In  this  valley,  about  two  long  days'  journey  north-east  of  Akaba,  is 
a  small  rivulet,  near  the  banks  of  which  Burckhardt  discovered  the  ruins 
of  a  city,  which  he  rightly  conjectured  to  be  those  of  Petra,  the  capital 
of  Arabia  Petraea.  No  other  European  traveler  had  ever  visited  the 
spot,  though  few  places  in  Western  Asia  are  more  curious  or  deserving 
of  examination.  The  difficulties  and  dangers  of  reaching  Petra,  a  city 
which  had  been  lost  to  the  world  fi)r  fifteen  hundred  years,  are  thus 
described  by  the  traveler :  "  I  was  particularly  desirous  of  visiting  Wady 
Moussa,  of  the  antiquities  of  which  I  had  heard  the  country  people 
speak  in  terms  of  great  admiration,  and  from  thence  I  had  hoped  to 
cross  the  desert  in  a  straight  line  to  Cairo ;  but  my  guide  was  aftaid  of 
the  hazards  of  a  journey  through  the  desert,  and  insisted  upon  my  tak- 
ing the  road  to  Akaba,  the  ancient  Ezion-geber,  at  the  extremity  of  the 
eastern  branch  of  the  Red  Sea,  where,  he  said,  we  might  join  some 
caravans,  and  continue  our  route  toward  Egypt.  I  wished,  on  the  con- 
trary, to  avoid  Akaba,  as  I  knew  that  the  Pasha  of  Egypt  kept  there 
a  numerous  garrison  to  watch  the  movements  of  the  Wahabees  and  of 
his  rival  the  Pasha  of  Damascus.  A  person,  therefore,  like  myself,  com- 
ing from  the  latter  place,  without  any  papers  to  show  who  I  was,  or  why 
I  had  taken  that  circuitous  route,  would  certainly  have  roused  the  sus- 
picions of  the  officer  commanding  at  Akaba,  and  the  consequences  might 
have  been  dangerous  to  me  among  the  savage  soldiery  of  that  garrison. 
The  road  from  Shobak  to  Akaba  lies  to  the  east  of  Wady  Moussa,  and 
to  have  quitted  it  out  of  mere  curiosity  to  see  the  Wady  would  have 


I 


<e> 


i 


206 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OP   BURCKIIARDT. 


looked  suspicious  in  the  eyes  of  the  Arabs :  I  therefore  pretended  to  have 
made  a  vow  to  slaughter  a  goat  in  honor  of  Haroun  (Aaron),  whose  tomb 
I  knew  was  situated  at  the  extremity  of  the  valley,  and  by  this  strata- 
gem I  thought  that  I  shoidd  have  the  means  of  seeing  the  valley  on  my 
way  to  the  tomb.  To  this  my  guide  had  nothing  to  oppose  ;  the  dread 
of  drawing  down  upon  himself,  by  resistance,  the  wrath  of  Haroun, 
completely  silenced  him. 

"  I  hired  a  guide  at  Eldjy,  to  conduct  me  to  Haroun's  tomb,  and  paid 
him  with  a  pair  of  old  horse-shoes.  He  carried  the  goat,  and  gave  mo 
a  skin  of  water  to  carry,  as  he  knew  there  was  no  water  in  the  Avady 
below.  In  following  the  rivulet  of  Eldjy  westward,  the  valley  soon  nar- 
rows again,  and  it  is  here  that  the  antiquities  of  Wady  Moussa  (Petra) 
begin.  Of  these  I  regret  that  I  am  not  able  to  give  a  very  complete 
account ;  but  I  knew  well  the  character  of  the  people  around  me.  I 
was  Avithout  protection  in  the  midst  of  a  desert,  where  no  traveler  had 
ever  before  been  seen,  and  a  close  examination  of  these  Avorks  of  the 
infidels,  as  they  are  called,  would  have  excited  suspicions  that  I  was  a 
magician  in  search  of  treasures.  I  should  at  least  have  been  detained 
and  prevented  from  prosecuting  my  journey  to  Egypt,  and  in  all  proba- 
bility should  have  been  stripped  of  the  little  money  which  I  possessed, 
and,  what  was  infinitely  moro  valuable  to  me,  of  my  journal.  Future 
travelers  may  visit  the  spot  under  the  protection  of  an  armed  force  ;  the 
inhabitants  will  become  more  accustomed  to  the  researches  of  strangers, 
and  the  aTitiquities  of  Wady  Moussa  will  then  be  found  to  rank  among 
the  most  curious  remain?  of  ancient  art." 

Burckhardt  gives  as  careful  a  description  as  his  memory  afforded 
of  the  'venders  of  the  valley — the  hundreds  of  sepulchral  chambers, 
adorned  with  Grecian  sculpture,  excavated  in  the  red  sand-stone  rocks 
Hanking  the  valley — of  the  mausolea,  some  in  the  Egyptian  style, 
with  obelisks,  some  in  the  ihasto  architecture  of  the  Greeks — and 
especially  of  the  Khasneh,  or  "Treasury  of  Pharaoh,"  an  excavated 
edifice  of  wonderful  beauty ;  but  his  account  has  been  superseded  by 
the  more  complete  and  elaborate  descriptions  of  Laborde  and  other  late 
travelers,  and  need  not  be  quoted  entire.  "  Near  the  west  end  of  Wady 
Moussa,"  he  continues,  "  are  the  remains  of  a  stately  edifice,  of  which 
pait  of  the  wall  is  still  standing;  the  inhabitants  call  it  Kasr  Bint 
Faraoun^  or  the  palace  of  Pharaoh's  daughter.  In  my  way  I  had  en- 
tered several  sepulchres,  to  the  surprise  of  my  guide,  but  when  he  saw 
me  turn  out  of  the  foot-path  toward  the  Easr,  he  exclaimed:  'I  see  now 
clearly  that  you  are  an  infidel,  who  have  some  particular  business  among 
the  ruins  of  the  city  of  your  fore&thers ;  but  depend  upon  it  that  we 
shall  not  suffer  you  to  take  out  a  single  para  of  all  the  treasures  hidden 
therein,  for  they  are  in  our  territory,  and  belong  to  us.'  I  replied  that 
it  was  mere  curiosity  which  prompted  me  to  look  at  1'"^  aucient  works, 
and  that  I  had  no  other  view  in  coming  there  than  to  sacrifice  to 
Haroun ;  but  he  was  not  easily  persuaded,  and  I  did  not  think  it  prudent 


ARDT. 

pretended  to  have 
aron),  whose  tomb 
and  by  this  Btrata- 
g  the  valley  on  my 
oppose ;  the  dread 
wrath  of  Haroun, 

un's  tomb,  and  paid 

goat,  and  gave  me 

water  in  the  wady 

Iho  valley  soon  nar- 

idy  Moussa  (Petra) 

vc  a  very  complete 

tple  around  me.     I 

!re  no  traveler  had 

these  works  of  the 

ciona  that  I  was  a 

lave  been  detained 

pt,  and  in  all  proba- 

r  which  I  possessed, 

ly  journal.    Future 

m  armed  force  ;  the 

iarches  of  strangers, 

und  to  rank  among 

lis  memory  afforded 
jpulchral  chambers, 
red  sand-stone  rocks 
ihe  Egyptian  style, 
>f  the  Greeks — and 
•aoh,"  an  excavated 
been  superseded  by 
borde  and  other  late 
B  west  end  of  Wady 
Ely  edifice,  of  which 

call  it  ITasr  Bint 
1  my  way  I  had  en- 
!e,  but  when  he  saw 
claimed : '  I  see  now 
alar  business  among 
nd  upon  it  that  we 
he  treasures  hidden 
us.'     I  replied  that 

ibf'  aucient  works, 
ban  to  sacrifice  to 
tot  think  it  prudent 


THE    SACRIFICE    TO    AARON. 


207 


to  irritate  him  by  too  close  an  inspection  of  the  palace,  as  it  might  have 
led  him  to  declare,  on  our  return,  his  belief  that  I  had  found  treasures, 
which  might  have  led  to  a  search  of  my  person,  and  to  the  detection  of 
my  journal,  which  would  most  certainly  have  been  taken  from  mc,  as  a 
book  of  magic.  It  was  of  no  avail  to  tell  them  to  follow  me,  and  see 
whether  I  searched  for  money.  Their  reply  was,  *  Of  course  you  will  not 
dare  to  take  it  out  before  us,  but  we  know  that  if  you  are  a  skillful  magi- 
cian you  will  order  it  to  follow  you  through  the  air  to  whatever  place 
you  please.' 

*'  The  sun  had  already  set  when  wo  arrived  on  the  plain.  It  was  too 
late  to  reach  the  tomb,  and  I  was  excessively  fatigued  ;  I  therefore  hast- 
ened to  kill  the  goat  in  sight  of  the  tomb,  at  a  spot  where  I  found  a 
number  of  heaps  of  stones,  placed  there  in  token  of  as  many  sacriticcs  in 
honor  of  that  saint.  While  I  was  in  the  act  of  slaying  the  animal,  ray 
guide  exclaimed  aloud: '  O  Haroun,  look  upon  us !  it  is  for  you  we  slaugh- 
ter this  victim.  O  Haroim,  be  content  with  our  good  intentions,  for  it 
is  but  a  lean  goat.  O  Haroun,  smooth  our  paths ;  and  praise  bo  to  the 
Lord  of  all  creatures  1'  This  he  repeated  several  times,  after  which  he 
covered  the  blood  that  had  fallen  to  the  ground  with  a  heap  of  stones ; 
we  then  dressed  the  best  part  of  the  flesh  for  our  supper,  as  expeditiously 
as  possible,  for  the  guide  was  afraid  of  the  fire  being  seen,  and  of  its 
attractuig  thither  some  robbers." 

In  proceeding  further  toward  Akaba,  Burckhardt  encountered  a  small 
party  of  Arabs  who  were  conducting  a  few  camels  for  sale  to  Cairo,  and 
uniting  himself  to  this  little  caravan,  performed  the  remainder  of  the 
journey  in  their  company.  "We  crossed  the  valley  of  Araba,"  says  he, 
"  ascended  on  the  other  side  of  it  the  barren  mountains  of  Beyane,  and 
entered  the  desert  called  El  Tih,  which  is  the  most  barren  and  horrid 
tract  of  country  I  have  ever  seen ;  black  flints  cover  the  chalky  or  sandy 
ground,  which  in  most  places  is  without  any  vegetation.  The  tree 
which  produces  the  gmn-arabic  grows  in  some  spots ;  and  the  tamarisk 
is  met  with  here  and  there ;  but  the  scarcity  of  water  forbids  much 
extent  of  vegetation,  and  the  hungry  camels  are  obliged  to  go  in  the 
evening  for  whole  hours  out  of  the  road  in  order  to  find  some  Avithered 
shrubs  upon  which  to  feed.  During  ten  days'  forced  marches  we 
passed  only  four  springs  or  wells,  of  which  one  only,  at  about  eight  hours 
east  of  Suez,  was  of  sweet  water.  The  others  were  brackish  and  sid- 
phureous.  We  passed  at  a  short  distance  to  the  north  of  Suez,  and 
arrived  at  Cairo  by  the  pilgrim  road." 


TRAVELS   IN    NUBIA    AND    ETHIOPIA. 

On  his  arrival  at  Cairo,  Burckhardt's  first  employment  was  to  draw 
up  a  detailed  account  of  his  journey  through  Arabia  Petrroa :  he  then 
turned  his  attention  to  the  means  of  fulfilling  the  great  design  of  his  mis- 


! 


I 


208 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  DUKOKHARDT. 


Bion ;  but  no  opportunity  of  penetrating  into  the  interior  of  Africa  occur- 
ring, he  undertook,  in  order  to  fill  up  tlie  interval  thus  created,  a  journey 
into  Nubia.  During  his  residence  at  Cairo,  and  on  his  jouniey  up  the 
Nile  to  Assouan,  he  beheld  the  principal  ruins  of  Egypt.  Uis  prepara- 
tions for  the  Nubian  excursion  were  soon  made.  He  purchased  two 
dromedaries,  one  for  himself  and  the  other  for  his  guide,  for  about  twen- 
ty-two pounds ;  provided  himself  with  letters  of  recommendation,  and  a 
finnan  from  tlio  pasha ;  and  leanng  his  servant  and  baggage  at  Assouan, 
set  out  with  his  guide  on  the  14th  of  February,  1813,  can-ying  along 
with  him  nothing  but  his  gun,  a  saber,  a  pistol,  a  provision-bag,  and  a 
woolen  mantle,  which  served  by  day  for  a  carpet,  and  for  a  covering 
during  the  night. 

Their  road  lay  along  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Nile;  they  passed 
PhiliD,  and  then  pushed  on  with  rapidity  toward  Derr,  the  capital  of 
Lower  Nubia.  The  Mameluke  chiefs,  y/hh  their  desperate  followers, 
were  at  this  period  roaming  about  Nubia,  indulging  their  imaginations 
in  vain  projects  for  the  recovery  of  Egypt.  Every  person  coming  from 
the  north  was  of  course  an  object  of  curiosity,  if  not  of  suspicion,  to 
these  baffled  soldiers,  as  it  was  possible  he  might  be  the  bearer  of  tidings 
of  events  upon  the  results  of  which  their  fate  depended.  Such  was  the 
state  of  things  when  Burckhardt  entered  Nubia. 

Burckhardt  arrived  at  Derr  on  the  1st  of  March,  and,  to  his  surprise, 
found  two  Mameluke  beys  at  the  palace  of  the  governor.  He  had  reck- 
oned upon  their  utter  disappearance,  and  had  intended,  under  these  cir- 
cumstances, to  represent  himself  as  the  secret  agent  of  the  Pasha  of 
Egypt ;  but  learning,  upon  inquiry,  that  the  pasha  and  his  enemies  were 
regarded  with  nearly  equal  dread  by  the  Nubian  princes,  he  changed  his 
resolution,  and  professed  to  be  guided  in  his  notions  by  no  other  motive 
than  pleasure.  Ignorant  persons  find  it  hard  to  conceive  that  men 
can  expose  themselves  to  difficulties  and  dangers  from  an  enthusiasm 
for  knowledge,  or  can  find  pleasure  in  encountering  hardships  and  fa- 
tigue; however,  a  concurrence  of  fortunate  circumstances  extorted  from 
the  governor  a  permission  to  proceed,  and  accordingly,  having  provided 
himself  with  provisions  for  the  road,  Burckhardt  departed  for  Sukkot. 

His  guide  on  the  present  occasion  was  an  old  Arab  of  the  Ababdeh 
tribe.  The  branch  of  the  Ababdeh  to  which  this  man,  whose  name  was 
Mohammed,  belonged,  feed  their  flocks  on  the  uninhabited  eastern  banks 
of  the  river,  and  on  its  numerous  islands,  as  far  south  as  Dongola. 
Though  poor,  they  refuse  to  bestow  their  daughters,  who  are  famed  for 
their  beauty,  in  marriage  on  the  rich  Nubians,  and  have  thus  preserved 
the  purity  of  their  race.  They  are,  moreover,  an  honest  and  hospitable 
race,  and  during  his  journeys  in  Nubia,  Burckhardt  was  constantly  re- 
ceived and  treated  with  kindness  by  these  simple  people.* 

In  pursuing  his  course  up  the  Nile,  he  passed  a  day  at  Ibreem,  a  town 

*  During  my  travels  in  Africa  I  had  considerable  intercourse  with  the  Ababdehs,  and 
fully  concur  in  Burckhardt'a  opinion  of  their  honesty  and  kindness. — B.  T. 


HARDT. 


MAKING  GRAVES. 


209 


irior  of  Africa  occur- 
us  created,  ajomney 

his  jounioy  up  the 
igypt.     His  prcjiara- 

He  purchased  two 
uidc,  for  about  twen- 
;ommendation,  and  a 

)aggage  at  Assouan, 
1813,  can-ying  along 
provision-bag,  and  a 

and  for  a  covering 

le  Nile;  they  passed 
Derr,  the  capital  of 
•  desperate  followers, 
ng  their  imaginations 
Y  person  coining  from 
f  not  of  suspicion,  to 
5  the  bearer  of  tidings 
ended.    Such  was  the 

h,  and,  to  his  surprise, 
vemor.  He  had  reck- 
sndcd,  under  these  cir- 
igent  of  the  Pasha  of 
i  and  his  enemies  were 
princes,  he  changed  his 
ms  by  no  other  motive 
to  conceive  that  men 
■8  from  an  enthusiasm 
ing  hardships  and  fa- 
QStances  extorted  from 
ingly,  having  provided 
leparted  for  Sukkot. 
Arab  of  the  Ababdeh 
man,  whose  name  was 
nhabited  eastern  banks 
far  south  as  Dongola. 
ers,  who  are  famed  for 
i  have  thus  preserved 
1  honest  and  hospitable 
ardt  was  constantly  re- 
people.* 
I  day  at  Ibreem,  a  town 

Tse  with  the  Ababdehs,  and 
dness.— B.  T. 


inhabited  by  Turks,  where,  though  quarrels  and  bloodshed  were  frequent, 
property  was  more  secure  than  in  any  other  town  he  had  visited  in  the 
eastern  world ;  the  com  was  left  all  night  in  the  field,  and  the  cattle  on 
the  banks  of  the  river,  unwatched,  and  even  the  greater  part  of  the 
household  furniture  remained  all  night  under  the  palm-trees  around  their 
dwellings.  Indeed,  theft  here  was  quite  unknown.  Proceeding  a  short  dis- 
tance to  the  south  of  this  town,  he  dismounted  from  his  dromedary,  and 
directing  his  guide  to  continue  his  route  to  the  next  village,  struck  off 
into  a  narrow  footpath  along  the  lofty,  precipitous  shores  of  the  river. 
Pursuing  this  mountain-track,  he  arrived  at  an  ancient  temple  hewn  out 
of  the  rock,  in  as  perfect  a  state  of  preservation  as  when  first  finished. 
Sepulchral  chambers  and  mystic  sculptures,  the  usual  accompaniments 
of  Egyptian  temples,  were  found  here. 

The  reception  which  the  traveler  and  his  guide  met  with  nt  the 
Nubian  villages  was  generally  hospitable ;  as  soon  as  they  alighted,  a 
mat  was  spread  for  them  upon  the  ground,  just  before  the  door  of  the 
house,  which  none  but  intimate  fiicnds  are  permitted  to  enter  ;  dhourra 
bread,  milk,  and  sometimes  dates  were  placed  before  the  strangers,  and 
their  host,  if  earnestly  pressed,  sat  down  with  them.  Straw,  when  plen- 
tiful, was  likewise  given  to  their  camels ;  and  when  the  host  desired  to 
be  particularly  hospitable,  a  breakfast  of  hot  milk  and  bread  was  ser>'ed 
up  bef<^re  their  departure  in  the  morning. 

At  length,  on  the  6th  of  March,  they  arrived  on  a  sandy  plain, 
sprinkled  with  rocky  points,  which  thrust  up  their  heads  through  the 
sand  that  concealed  their  bases.  Here  they  encamped  in  the  evening 
near  one  of  the  islands  which  are  formed  by  the  river.  The  noise  of  the 
cataract  was  heard  in  the  night,  at  about  half  an  hour's  distance.  The 
place  is  very  romantic :  when  the  inundation  subsides,  many  small  lakes 
are  left  among  the  rocks ;  and  the  banks  of  these,  overgrown  with  large 
tamarisks,  have  a  picturesque  appearance  amid  the  black  and  green 
rocks ;  the  lakes  and  pools  thus  formed  cover  a  space  of  upward  of  two 
miles  in  breadth. 

The  Arabs  who  serve  as  guides  through  these  wild  districts,  "have 
devised,"  says  Burckhardt,  "  a  singular  mode  of  extorting  small  presents 
from  the  traveler :  they  alight  at  certain  spots,  and  beg  a  present ;  if  it 
is  refused,  they  collect  a  heap  of  sand,  and  mould  it  into  the  form  of 
a  diminutive  tomb,  and  then  placing  a  stone  at  each  of  its  extremities, 
they  apprize  the  traveler  that  his  tomb  b  made ;  meaning  that  hencefor- 
ward there  will  be  no  security  for  him  in  this  rocky  wilderness.  Most 
persons  pay  a  trifling  contribution  rather  than  have  their  graves  made 
before  their  eyes ;  there  were,  however,  several  tombs  of  this  description 
dispersed  over  the  plain.  Being  satisfied  with  my  guide,  I  gave  him  one 
piaster,  with  which  ho  was  content."  At  the  next  rocky  pass,  however, 
the  guide  repeated  the  process,  whereupon  Burckhardt  dismounted,  and 
making  another  tomb,  told  him  it  was  intended  for  bis  own  sepulr  nrj ; 
for  that,  as  they  were  brethren,  it  was  but  just  they  should  be  buried  to- 


210 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS   OP    BURCKFIARDT. 


gcthor.  At  this,  the  guide  began  to  laugh ;  they  then  mutually  de- 
stroyed each  other's  labors,  and  in  riding  along,  the  latter  exclaimed,  from 
the  Koran,  "  No  mortal  knows  the  spot  upon  earth  where  his  grave  shall 
be  digged." 

On  his  arrival  in  the  territory  of  Sukkot,  he  presented  to  the  gover- 
nor the  letter  of  which  he  was  the  bearer  ;  and  received  from  this  old 
savugo  a  scrap  of  paper,  containing  an  introduction  to  his  sor,  who  was 
the  chief  of  the  southern  part  of  the  district.  Here  the  guide,  who  had 
been  granted  him  at  Derr,  reached  the  extremity  of  his  commission,  and 
oimouncod  his  intention  of  returning  from  thence ;  four  piasters,  how- 
ever, overcame  his  determination,  and  ho  agreed  to  proceed  to  Mahnss : 
"  If  Hassan  Kashi^"  said  he,  "  upbraids  me,  I  shall  tell  him  that  you  rode 
on,  notwithstanding  my  exhortations,  and  that  I  did  not  think  it  honora- 
ble to  leave  you  alone."  An  admirable  custom  prevails  in  this  and  every 
other  part  of  Nubia:  water-jars  are  placed  under  a  low  roof  at  short  dis- 
tances by  the  roadside,  where  the  traveler  may  always  quench  his  thirst ; 
and  every  village  pays  a  small  monthly  sum  to  some  person  to  fill  those 
jars  morning  and  evening.  The  same  thing  is  practiced  upon  a  much 
larger  scale  in  Upper  Egypt  and  in  Asia  Muior. 

Upon  Burckhardt's  reaching  the  Mahass  territory,  he  suddenly  found 
himself  in  the  midst  of  the  worst  description  of  savages.  The  governor, 
a  ferocious  black,  received  him  in  a  hut,  furiously  intoxicated,  and  sur- 
rounded by  numerous  followers  in  the  same  condition.  In  the  midst  of 
their  drunken  mirth  they  called  ibr  their  muskets,  and  amused  them- 
selves with  firing  in  the  hut.  Burckhardt  every  moment  expected  that 
a  random  ball  would  put  an  end  to  his  travels ;  but  the  palm  wine  at 
length  extended  the  whole  of  this  atrocious  rabble  upon  the  ground, 
and  next  morning,  when  sleep  had  somewhat  restored  the  tone  of  the 
governor's  senses,  he  found  time  to  question  the  traveler  respecting  the 
motives  of  his  visit.  The  story  which  he  related  to  them  was  not  be- 
lieved. "  You  are  an  agent  of  Mohammed,"  said  they ;  "  but  at  Mahass 
we  spit  at  Mohammed  All's  beard,  and  cut  off  the  heads  of  those  who 
are  enemies  to  the  Mamelukes."*  These  suspicions,  although  they  pro- 
duced no  immediate  injury  to  his  jiersonal  safety,  entirely  put  a  stop  to 
his  progress  further  south ;  for  he  was  now  within  two  days  and  a  half 
of  the  limits  of  Dongola,  where  the  Mamelukes  were  lords  paramount, 
and  to  enter  their  territories  with  the  character  of  an  agent  of  Moham- 
med Ali,  would  be  to  court  certain  death.  He  therefore  turned  his  face 
toward  the  north,  and  traveled  with  all  possible  celerity  along  the  east- 
ern bank  of  the  Nile,  until  he  arrived  at  Kolbe,  where  he  swam  across  the 

*  Thirty-nine  years  later,  in  the  spring  of  1852, 1  passed  alone  through  the  countries 
of  Dongola,  Mahass  and  Sukkot,  with  the  most  perfect  security.  The  King  of  Mahass 
even  embraced  me  affectionately  at  parting.  This  contrast  shows  how  readily  the  suspi- 
cion and  mistrust  which  the  first  travelers  generally  have  to  encounter,  on  entering  a  new 
country,  gives  place  to  oon&deuce  and  kindneas. — ^B.  T. 


ARDT. 

then  mutually  de- 
ter excluimcd,  from 
here  his  grave  eball 

ented  to  the  pover- 
vod  from  this  old 
,o  his  son,  who  was 
the  guide,  who  had 
lis  commission,  and 

four  piasters,  how- 
proceed  to  Mahass : 

him  that  you  rode 
not  think  it  honora- 
xils  in  this  and  every 
ow  roof  at  short  dis- 
rs  quench  his  tliirst ; 
!  person  to  fill  those 
icticcd  upon  a  much 

y,  he  suddenly  found 
ges.  The  governor, 
ntoxicated,  and  sur- 
on.  In  the  midst  of 
I,  and  amused  them- 
)ment  expected  that 
jut  the  palm  wine  at 
lie  upon  the  ground, 
ored  the  tone  of  the 
aveler  respecting  the 

to  them  was  not  be- 
hey ;  "  but  at  Mahass 
I  heads  of  those  who 
8,  although  they  pro- 
entirely  put  a  stop  to 

two  days  and  a  half 
ere  lords  paramount, 

an  agent  of  Moham- 
srefore  turned  his  face 
elerity  along  the  east- 
re  he  swam  across  the 

lone  through  the  countries 
ity.  The  King  of  Mahaas 
ow»  how  readily  the  suspi- 
koounter,  oa  entering  a  new 


RETURN   TO    EGYPT. 


211 


i 


river,  holding  by  his  camel's  tail  with  one  hand,  and  urging  on  tho  beast 
with  the  other. 

Hurckhardt  now  descended  the  Nile  to  Abou-Simbel,  the  vast  rocky 
temple  of  which  ho  supposed  to  bo  of  extremely  ancient  date.  lie  hero 
found  four  colossal  statues  of  enormous  magnitude,  which  had  been 
hewn  out  of  tho  rock,  on  tho  face  of  an  elevated  clift*,  with  their  backs 
adhering  to  tho  precipice.  Tho  fine  sand  of  tho  desert  had  been  blown 
up  into  mounds  against  tho  rock,  and  covered  two  of  these  statues  al- 
most entirely ;  the  rest  rose  somewhat  above  the  surface.  The  faces  of 
these  colo.ssal  statues  arc  turned  toward  the  north.  "  The  head,  which 
is  above  tho  surface,"  says  he,  "  has  a  most  expressive  youthful  counte- 
nance, approaching  nearer  to  tho  Grecian  model  of  beauty  than  that  of 
any  ancient  Egyptian  figure  I  have  seen ;  indeed,  were  it  not  for  a  thin, 
oblong  beard,  it  might  well  pass  for  a  head  of  Pallas." 

From  Abou-Stmbel  he  continued  his  journey  to  Derr,  where  he  parted 
with  bis  guide,  who,  on  taking  his  leave,  begged  as  a  present  tho 
mcllayo,  or  cloak,  which  the  traveler  usually  wore.  To  this  request 
Burckbardt  replied,  "  May  God  smooth  your  path !" — a  phrase  usually 
addressed  to  beggars  when  they  are  civilly  told  to  bo  gone.  "  No," 
said  the  Arab,  who  had  often  employed  this  phrase  when  he  desired  to 
elude  tho  questions  of  the  travekr,  "  for  onco  I  will  beg  you  to  smooth 
it."  "  So,"  says  Burckhardt,  "  I  j»ave  him  the  mellaye,  and  a  small  pres- 
ent in  money ;  and  am  confident  vhat  Abou  Saad  will  never  forget  me." 

On  his  return  to  Assouan,  Burcktiurdt's  first  care  was  to  repair,  by  re- 
pose, tho  inroads  which  fatigue  had  made  upon  his  constitution.  He 
then  repdred  to  Esno,  where  he  established  his  head-quarters.  It  being 
his  policy  to  excite  but  little  attention,  ho  very  seldom  went  into  com- 
pany, dressed  meanly,  and  reduced  his  expenditure  to  tho  lowest  possible 
sura.  The  cheapness  of  provisions  was  incredible.  His  whole  expendi- 
ture for  himself,  his  servant,  his  dromedary,  and  his  ass,  not  exceeding 
thirty-five  cents  per  day,  while  his  horse  cost  him  no  more  than  thirty 
cents  per  month. 

Here  ho  remained  until  tho  2d  of  March,  1814,  when  he  joined  him- 
self, as  a  petty  trader,  to  another  caravan,  which  was  proceeding  from 
Doraou  to  Berber.  The  caravan,  consisting  of  about  fifty  merchants, 
with  their  slaves  and  beasts,  moved  under  the  protection  of  about  thirty 
Ababdeh  Arabs,  who,  though  no  heroes  or  philosophers,  were  not  re- 
markably deficient  either  in  courage  or  humanity.  Burckhardt,  on  this 
occasion,  possessed  no  command  over  his  own  movements.  He  traveled, 
halted,  ate,  slept,  in  obedience  to  tho  fantasy  of  the  caravan-leaders,  who 
were  ignorant,  however,  that  the  humble  trader,  whom  they  regarded 
at  most  vrith  compassion,  was  at  that  moment  forming  reflections  and 
bringing  observations  to  maturity,  which  were  destined  to  affect  tho 
opinion  enteitained  by  the  civilized  world  of  their  character  and  pursuits. 
Meanwhile  the  merchants,  who  were  chiefly  engaged  in  the  debasing 
traffic  of  slaves,  and,  a    may  be  supposed,  cherished  no  respect  for  any 


ii 
t 

I 

I 

I 

i 


J 


212 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  DCBCKHARDT. 


tiling  hut  riches,  and  tho  power  which  riches  cominandH,  looked  upon 
their  humble  cuinpiiniun  with  undisgiiiiicd  contempt.  They  constantly 
treated  him  with  contumely,  though  he  protessed  a  belief  in  the  same 
law  and  the  Hamo  prophets ;  plundered  his  water-flkins,  or  obstructed  Km 
filling  them  at  tho  wells,  thus  ex[K)Hing  him  to  the  danger  of  perishing 
of  thirst ;  circulated  in  tho  towns  where  they  stopped  the  report  that  lie 
was  a  spy ;  and,  in  short,  put  in  practice  every  art  which  their  malice 
could  conceive  in  order  to  disgust  him  with  tho  trade,  and  thus  free 
themselves  from  a  new  competitor. 

At  tho  end  of  a  week's  journoy  tho  caravan  arrived  at  the  celebrated 
wells  of  El  Ilnimar,  in  tho  vicinity  of  wliich  they  found  tho  tomb  of  a 
Mameluke  chief,  who  died  on  this  spot.  "His  companions,  having 
inclosed  the  naked  corpse  within  low  walls  of  loose  stones,  had  covered 
it  over  with  a  large  block.  Tho  dryness  of  the  air  had  preserved  tho 
cor[)so  in  the  most  perfect  state.  Looking  at  it  through  tho  interstices 
of  the  stones  which  enveloped  it,  it  appeared  to  me  a  more  perfect 
mummy  than  any  I  had  seen  in  Egypt.  Tho  mouth  was  wide  open,  and 
our  guide  related  that  tho  man  had  died  for  want  of  water,  although  so 
near  tho  wells."  Next  day  they  passed  Wady  OUaky,  a  fine  valley  ex- 
tending east  and  west  from  tlie  Nile  to  the  Red  Sea.  Here  were  numer- 
ous trees  and  excellent  pasture,  advantages  which  caused  it  to  be  re- 
garded with  peculiar  veneration  by  the  Bedouins ;  and  every  man,  as  he 
traversed  it  on  his  asa  or  camel,  took  a  handful  of  dhourra  and  threw  it 
on  the  ground  as  a  kind  of  pious  offering  to  the  good  genius  of  the 
Wady.  On  the  follo\ving  day,  in  crossmg  Wady  El  Towashy,  or  the 
Valley  of  the  Eunuch,  Burckhardt  saw  the  tomb  of  that  Mahomet  Tow- 
ash  whose  body  was  found  on  the  sands  by  Bruce  three  days  after  ho 
bad  been  murdered  by  his  guides. 

Burckhardt  gives  the  following  account  of  the  impositions  and  hard- 
ships which  he  was  obliged  to  endure  in  the  course  of  this  journey  :  "  I 
was  often  driven  from  the  coolest  and  most  comfortable  berth  into  the 
burning  sun,  and  generally  passed  the  midday  hours  in  great  distress ; 
for  beside  the  exposure  to  heat,  I  had  to  cook  my  dinner,  a  service  which 
I  could  never  prevail  upon  any  of  my  companions,  even  the  poorest  serv- 
ants, to  perform  for  me,  though  I  offered  to  let  them  share  my  homely 
fare.  In  the  evening  the  same  labor  occurred  again,  when  fatigued  by 
tlie  day's  journey,  during  Avhich  I  always  walked  for  four  or  five  hours, 
in  order  to  spare  my  ass,  and  when  I  was  in  the  utmost  need  of  repose. 
Hunger,  however,  always  prevailed  over  fatigue,  and  I  was  obliged  to 
fetch  and  cut  wood,  to  light  a  fire,  to  cook,  to  feed  the  ass,  and  finally 
to  make  coffee,  a  cup  of  which,  presented  to  my  Daraou  companions, 
who  were  extremely  eager  to  obtain  it,  was  the  only  means  I  possessed 
of  keeping  them  in  tolerable  good-humor.  A  good  night's  rest,  however, 
always  repaired  my  strength,  and  I  was  never  in  better  health  and 
spirits  than  during  this  journey,  although  its  fatigues  were  certainly  very 
great,  and  much  beyond  my  expectation.    The  common  dish  of  all  the 


J 


MM 


lARDT. 


BOARCITY   OP   WATKR. 


218 


inandH,  looked  upon 
They  constantly 
a  belief  in  the  saiiiu 
ns,  or  obstructed  Iii.H 
danger  of  perishing 
cd  the  report  that  he 
which  their  malice 
trade,  and  thus  free 

cd  at  the  celebrated 
found  the  tomb  of  a 
companions,  having 
e  stones,  had  covered 
ir  had  preserved  the 
trough  the  interstices 
)  me  a  more  perfect 
th  was  wide  open,  and 
of  water,  although  so 
laky,  a  fine  valley  ex- 
Here  were  numer- 
h  caused  it  to  bo  rc- 
and  every  man,  as  ho 
dhourra  and  threw  it 
le  good  genius  of  the 
y  El  Towashy,  or  the 
of  that  Mahomet  Tow- 
:o  three  days  after  ho 

3  impositions  and  hard- 
se  of  this  journey  :  "  I 
brtable  berth  into  the 
3urs  in  great  distress; 

dinner,  a  service  which 
s,  even  the  poorest  serv- 
hem  share  my  homely 
^ain,  when  fatigued  by 

for  four  or  five  hours, 

utmost  need  of  repose. 
),  and  I  was  obliged  to 
jed  the  ass,  and  finally 
ay  Daraou  companions, 

only  means  I  possessed 
id  night's  rest,  however, 
ir  in  better  health  and 
rues  were  certainly  very 
common  dish  of  all  the 


travelers  at  noon  was  fetyre,  which  is  flour  mixed  up  with  water  into  a 
liquid  paste,  and  then  baked  u\yon  the  sadj,  or  iron  pliitn  ;  butter  is  then 
poured  over  it,  or  honey,  or  Hometimes  a  sauce  is  miulo  of  butter  and 
dried  bamye.  In  the  evening  some  lentils  are  boiled,  or  sotno  bread  is 
baked  with  salt,  either  u|)on  the  sadj  or  in  ashes,  and  a  sauce  of  bamye, 
or  onion,  poured  over  lentils,  or  upon  the  bread,  after  it  has  been  erum- 
bled  into  small  pieces.  Early  in  the  morning  every  one  cats  a  piece  of 
dry  biscuit,  with  some  raw  onions  or  dates." 

On  the  14th  of  March,  on  arriving  at  the  Wady  el  Nabeh,  they  fotuid 
the  celebrated  wells  of  that  valley  insufficient  to  8upi)ly  the  caravan  until 
they  should  reach  the  rocks  of  Shigre,  and  as  no  water  was  anj  »vhcro 
to  be  found  in  the  intervening  space,  they  were  reduced  to  the  greatest 
perplexity.  "  Upon  such  occasions  as  these,"  says  Burckhardt,  "  every 
:nan  gives  his  opinion  r  and  mine  was,  that  we  should  kill  our  thirty-five 
asses,  whi(;h  required  a  daily  supply  of  at  least  fifteen  water-skins,  that 
we  should  load  the  camels  to  the  utmost  of  their  strength  with  water, 
and  strike  out  a  straight  way  through  the  desert  toward  Berber,  with- 
out touching  at  Shigre ;  in  this  manner  wo  might  perform  the  journey  in 
five  forced  marches."  This  plan  the  Arabs  refused  to  follow.  They 
repaired  their  water-skins  and  their  sandals,  refreshed  themselves  with 
bathing  in  the  cool  wells,  and  then  set  out.  But  "  it  was  not  without 
great  apprehension,"  says  our  traveler,  "  that  I  departed  from  this  place. 
Our  camels  and  asses  carried  water  for  three  or  four  days  only,  and  I 
saw  no  possibility  of  escaping  from  the  dreadful  effects  of  a  want  of 
water.  In  order  to  keep  my  ass  in  good  spirits,  I  took  off  the  two  small 
water-skins  with  which  I  had  hitherto  loaded  him,  and  paid  one  of  the 
Ababdchs  tour  dollars  to  carry  four  small  water-skins  as  far  as  Berber ; 
for  I  thought  that  if  the  ass  could  carry  me,  I  might  bear  thirst  for  two 
days  at  least,  but  that  if  he  should  break  down,  I  should  certainly  not 
be  able  to^walk  one  whole  day  without  water  in  this  hot  season  of  the 
year." 

Notwithstanding  all  theso  difficulties  and  sufferings,  Burckhardt  con- 
sidered the  Nubian  desert,  at  least  as  far  south  as  Shigre,  far  less  ter- 
rible than  that  of  Syria  or  Tyh.  Trees  and  water  arc  much  more  fre- 
quent, and  though  it  is  intersected  in  various  directions  by  mountains 
of  naked  rock,  the  more  desolate  and  awful  appearance  which  it  acquires 
from  this  circumst  mce  is,  in  a  great  measure,  compensated  for  by  its 
consequent  grande  ir  and  variety.  "  Here,"  says  he,  "  during  the  whole 
day's  march,  we  were  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  lakes  of  the  mirage, 
called  by  the  Arabs  Serab.  Its  color  was  of  the  purest  azure,  and  so 
clear  that  the  shadows  of  the  mountains  that  bordered  the  horizon  were 
reflected  on  it  with  the  greatest  precision,  and  the  delusion  of  its  being 
a  sheet  of  water  was  thus  rendered  still  more  perfect."  This  appearance, 
however,  only  served  to  heighten  the  terrors  which  the  scarcity  of  real 
water  excited.  Every  man  now  began  to  attach  the  greatest  importance 
to  the  small  stock  he  possessed.    Burckhardt,  who  possessed  but  two 


> 


i 


iXLS^S£L'saBa^sa!::i:^^ss!S:sr^£33lssz^::z::- 


-  '^"-fir  ^j'  .,^ 


214 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS    OP    BDRCKHARDT. 


draughts,  drank  the  half  of  it  at  once,  reserving  the  remainder  for  the 
next  day ;  but,  observing  the  general  scarcity,  shared  the  dejection  of 
his  companions.  At  length,  their  condition  having  become  nearly  des- 
perate, they  adopted  the  course  recommended  by  the  Ababdeh  chief, 
and  dispatched  ten  or  twelve  of  their  companions,  mounted  on  as  many 
camels,  to  the  nearest  part  of  the  Nile,  which  was  not  more  than  five  or 
six  hours  distant ;  but  as  its  banks  were  inhabited  by  fierce  cribes,  noth- 
ing but  the  fear  of  instant  death  could  have  forced  them  to  this  step. 
They  timed  their  march  in  such  a  manner,  that  they  Avould  reach  the 
banks  of  the  river  by  night ;  when  they  were  directed  to  select  some 
uninhabited  spot,  and  having  there  loaded  their  camels,  to  return  with 
all  spcf  d.  "  We  passed  the  evening,''  says  Burckhardt,  "  in  the  greatest 
anxiety,  for  if  the  camels  should  not  return,  we  had  little  hopes  of  escape 
either  from  thirst  or  from  the  sword  of  our  enemies,  who,  if  they  had 
once  got  sight  of  our  camels,  would  have  followed  their  footsteps 
through  the  desert,  and  would  certainly  have  discovered  us."  Many 
of  my  companions  came  in  the  course  of  the  evening  to  beg  some  water 
of  me,  but  I  had  well  hidden  my  treasure,  and  answered  them  by  show- 
ing my  empty  skins.  We  remained  the  greater  part  of  the  night  in 
silent  and  sullen  expectation  of  the  result  of  our  desperate  mission.  At 
length,  about  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  heard  the  distant  halloo- 
ings  of  our  companions ;  and  soon  after  refreshed  ourselves  with  copious 
draughts  of  the  delicious  water  of  the  Nile." 

This  was  ii;o  last  of  their  sufierings  on  this  route;  on  the  23d  of 
March,  they  entered  on  a  plain  with  a  slight  slope  toward  the  river, 
which  was  felt  at  more  than  two  hours'  distance  by  the  greater  moisture 
of  the  air.  The  Arabs  exclaimed,  "  God  be  praised,  we  again  smell  the 
Nile  !"  and  about  ten  o'clock  at  night,  the  caravan  entered  the  town  of 
Ankheyreh,  or  El  Mekheyref,  the  capital  of  the  country  of  Berber. 
Burckhardt's  residence  at  this  place  was  nothing  but  one  "continued 
series  of  annoyances.  The  principal  delight  of  the  whole  population, 
among  whom  drunkenness  and  debauchery  were  scarcely  accounted 
vices,  seemed  to  consist  in  deluding  and  plundering  travelers,  who  on 
all  the  envenomed  soil  of  Africa  could  scarcely  be  exposed  to  more  irri- 
tating insults  or  extortion  than  on  this  spot. 

The  caravan,  now  reduced  to  about  two  thirds  of  its  original  number, 
several  of  the  merchants  having  returned  to  Egypt,  while  others  re- 
mained at  Berber  to  dispose  of  their  goods,  again  put  itself  in  motion  on 
the  7th  of  April.  Burckhardt,  who  had  hitherto  attached  himself  to  the 
merchant  portion  of  the  party,  several  of  whom,  previous  to  their  leaving 
Egypt,  had  received  benefits  at  his  hands,  was  here  driven  by  abuse  and 
contumely  to  take  refuge  among  the  Ababdehs,  who  not  only  willingly 
received  him  as  their  companion,  but  exercised  their  influence,  on  more 
than  one  occasion,  to  protect  him  from  violence.  Pursuing  a  southerly 
direction  for  three  days,  they  arrived  at  the  town  of  Damer,  which, 
under  the  government  of  a  number  of  religious  men,  had  attained  a  very 


i^iU- 


ARDT. 


ADVENTURE  AT  DAMER. 


215 


d 


!  remainder  for  the 
•ed  the  dejection  of 
become  nearly  des- 
the  Ababdch  chief, 
mounted  on  as  many 
not  more  than  five  or 
y  fierce  tribes,  noth- 
them  to  this  Ktep. 
ley  would  reach  the 
ccted  to  select  some 
amcis,  to  return  with 
irdt,  "  in  the  greatest 
little  hopes  of  escape 
lies,  who,  if  they  had 
owed  their  footsteps 
scovered  us."    Many 
ng  to  beg  some  water 
wered  them  by  show- 
part  of  the  night  in 
esperate  mission.    At 
ard  the  distant  halloo- 
ourselves  with  copious 

route ;  on  the  23d  of 
lope  toward  the  river, 
ly  the  greater  moisture 
led,  we  again  smell  the 
II  entered  the  town  of 
le  country  of  Berber. 
ng  but  one  'continued 

the  whole  population, 
ire  scarcely  accotmted 
ring  travelers,  who  on 
!  exposed  to  more  irri- 

of  its  original  number, 
Jgypt,  while  others  re- 
I  put  itself  in  motion  on 
attached  himself  to  the 
revious  to  their  leaAring 
re  driven  by  abuse  and 
who  not  only  willingly 
beir  influence,  on  more 
Pursuing  a  southerly 
own  of  Damer,  which, 
en,  had  attained  a  very 


high  pitch  of  prosperity.  Their  sanctity,  indeed,  was  considerably  aided 
by  their  skill  in  magic,  which,  as  Burckhardt  was  credibly  informed, 
was  so  great  that,  on  one  occasion,  the  Faky  el  Kebir,  or  Great  Fakeer, 
caused  a  lamb  to  bleat  in  the  stomach  of  the  thief  Avho  had  stolen,  nnd 
afterward  eaten  it.  As  Burckhardt  needed  a  few  measures  of  dhourra 
for  his  ass,  and  found  it  impracticable  to  purchase  less  than  a  dollar's 
worth,  which  would  have  been  more  than  ho  could  carry,  ho  was  im- 
der  the  necessity  of  imitating  his  companions,  and  went  from  house  to 
bouse  with  some  strings  of  beads  in  his  hands,  offering  them  for  sale 
at  about  four  handfuls  of  dhourra  for  each  bead.  "  I  gained  at  this 
rate,"  says  he,  "about  sixty  per  cent,  above  the  prime  cost,  and  had  at 
the  same  time  an  opportunity  of  entering  many  private  houses.  I  re- 
peated these  walks  every  day  during  our  stay.  One  afternoon,  while 
crying  my  beads  for  sale,  I  was  accosted  by  a  faky,  who  asked  me  if  I 
could  read.  On  my  answering  in  the  affirmative,  ho  desired  me  to  fol- 
low him  to  a  place  where,  he  said,  I  might  expect  to  get  a  good  dinner. 
He  then  led  me  to  a  house  where  I  found  a  great  number  of  people, 
collected  to  celebrate  the  memory  of  some  relative  lately  deceased. 
Several  fakies  were  reading  the  Koran  in  a  low  tone  of  voice.  A  great 
faky  afterward  came  in,  Avhose  arrival  was  the  signal  for  reciting  the 
Koran  in  loud  songs,  in  the  manner  customary  in  the  East,  in  which  I 
joined  them.  This  was  continued  for  about  half  an  hour,  until  dinner 
was  brought  in,  which  was  very  plentiful,  as  a  cow  had  been  killed  upon 
the  occasion.  After  a  hearty  meal,  we  recommenced  our  reading.  One 
of  the  shekhs  produced  a  basketful  of  white  pebbles,  over  which  several 
prayers  were  read.  These  pebbles  were  destined  to  bo  strewed  over 
the  tomb  of  the  deceased  in  the  manner  which  I  had  often  observed 
upon  tombs  freshly  made.  Upon  my  inquiries  respecting  this  custom, 
which  I  confessed  to  have  never  before  seen  practiced  in  any  Moham- 
medan country,  the  faky  answered  that  it  was  a  mere  meritorious  action : 
that  there  was  no  absolute  necessity  for  it :  but  that  it  was  thought  that 
the  soul  of  the  deceased,  when  hereafter  visiting  the  tomb,  might  bo 
glad  to  find  these  pebbles,  in  order  to  use  them  as  beads  in  addressing 
Its  prayers  to  the  Creator.  When  the  reading  was  over,  the  women  be- 
gan to  sing  and  howl.  I  then  left;  the  room,  and  on  taking  my  depart- 
ure my  kind  host  put  some  bones  of  roasted  meat  in  my  hand  to  serve 
for  my  supper." 

In  proceeding  from  this  place  to  Shendy  the  caravan  was  accom- 
panied by  several  fakies,  whose  presence  was  found  to  be  a  sufficient 
protection  against  the  Nubian  Bedouins.  They  reached  Shendy  on  the 
17th  of  April,  and  this  being,  next  to  Scnnaar  and  Kobbe,  the  largest 
town  in  eastern  Soudan,  they  remained  here  a  whole  month,  during 
which  time  Burckhardt  enjoyed  an  ample  opportunity  of  collecting  mate- 
rials for  an  account  of  this  and  the  neighboring  countries.  Crocodiles  are 
numerous  in  this  part  of  the  Nile.  They  are  much  dreaded  by  the  in- 
habitants, who,  when  repairing  to  its  banks  for  water  or  to  wash  their 


216 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS   OF    BURCKUAEDT. 


m 


linen,  arc  in  constant  fear  of  these  creatures.  Burckhardt  ate  of  the 
crocodile's  flesh,  which  he  found  of  a  dirty  white  color,  not  unlike  young 
veal,  with  a  slight  fishy  smell. 

At  Shendy  Bur  khardt  abandoned  all  idea  of  proceeding  further 
south ;  and,  in  order  to  procure  himself  some  little  civility  from  his  former 
companions,  circulated  the  report  that  he  intended  to  return  directly  to 
Egypt,  where,  by  describing  to  the  pasha  their  conduct  toward  him 
during  the  journey,  he  might  do  them  considerable  injury.  This  strata- 
gem succeeded.  Their  civility  and  aifectcd  friendship  now  surpassed 
their  former  insolence.  In  the  mean  while,  understanding  that  a  caravan 
was  about  to  set  out  for  Souakin  on  the  Red  Sea,  our  traveler  prevailed 
on  the  Ababdeh  chief  to  introduce  and  recommend  him  aa  his  own  friend 
to  its  leader.  Here  he  disposed  of  his  merchandise,  and  purchased  a 
slave-boy  to  attend  upon  him  on  the  ro.nd ;  and  having  laid  in  the  neces- 
sary quantity  of  provisions,  joined  the  Souakin  caravan,  and  departed 
from  Shendy  on  the  17th  of  May.  "After  all  my  accounts  were  settled," 
says  he,  "  I  had  four  dollars  left ;  but  the  smallness  of  the  sum  occasioned 
me  no  uneasiness,  for  I  calculated  on  selling  my  camel  on  the  coast  for 
as  much  as  would  defray  the  expenses  of  my  voyage  to  Jidda,  and  I  had 
a  letter  of  credit  on  that  place  for  a  considerable  sum,  which  I  had  pro- 
cured at  Cairo." 

The  road  now  traversed  by  the  caravan  crossed  the  Atbara,  the  As- 
taboras  of  the  ancients,  on  the  banks  of  which  they  found  numerous 
groves  of  trees  and  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation.  At  the  sight  of 
this  the  imagination  even  of  the  slave-dealers  was  touched  Avith  enthu- 
siasm ;  and  in  alluding  to  the  dreary  track  over  which  they  had  traveled, 
one  of  tliem  exclaimed,  "  After  death  comes  paradise !"  "  There  was  a 
greater  variety  of  natural  vegetation  here  than  I  had  seen  anywhere  on 
the  banks  of  the  Nile,  in  Egypt.  1  observed  diflerent  species  of  the 
mimosa,  doom-trees  of  the  largest  size,  whose  luxuriant  clusters  of  fruit 
excited  the  wishes  of  the  slaves,  the  nebek-trec,  with  its  fruit  ripe ;  the 
allobe,  of  the  size  of  the  ncbek,  besides  a  great  number  of  others  un- 
known to  me ;  to  these  may  be  added  an  abundance  of  wild  herbage, 
growing  on  a  rich,  fat  soil  similar  to  that  of  Egypt.  The  trees  were  in- 
habited by  great  numbers  of  the  feathered  tribe,  whose  song  travelers 
in  Egypt  very  rarely  hear.  I  saw  no  birds  vnth  rich  plumage,  but  ob- 
served small  ones  of  several  different  kinds.  Some  sweet  notes  struck 
my  ears,  which  I  had  never  before  heard,  and  the  amorous  cooings  of 
the  turtle-dove  were  unceasing.  We  hastened  to  the  river  and  eagerly 
descended  its  low  banks  to  allay  our  thirst.  Several  camels,  at  the  sight 
of  the  water,  broke  the  halters  by  which  they  were  led,  and  in  rushing 
or  stumbling  down  the  banks  threw  off  their  loads,  and  occasioned  great 
clamor  and  disorder." 

In  the  vicinity  of  Goz  Rajeb,  on  the  Atbara,  Burckhardt  saw  on  the 
summit  of  a  hill  the  ruins  of  a  huge  fabric  of  ancient  times,  but  was  de- 
terred from  visiting  it  by  the  assertion  of  his  companions  that  it  was  the 


UARDT. 

rckhardt  ate  of  the 
or,  not  unlike  young 

proceeding  further 

vility  from  his  former 

to  return  directly  to 

onduct  toward  him 

injury.    This  strata- 

islilp  now  ourpassed 

nding  that  a  caravan 

ur  traveler  prevailed 

lim  as  his  own  friend 

ise,  and  purchased  a 

ing  laid  in  the  neces- 

iravan,  and  departed 

;counts  were  settled," 

of  the  sum  occasioned 

amcl  on  the  coast  for 

e  to  Jidda,  and  I  had 

um,  which  I  had  pro- 

1  the  Atbara,  the  As- 
,hey  found  numerous 
m.  At  the  sight  of 
touched  with  enthu- 
lich  they  had  traveled. 
Use !"  "  There  was  a 
lad  seen  anywhere  on 
ffercnt  species  of  the 
iriant  clusters  of  fruit 
rith  its  fruit  ripe ;  the 
number  of  others  un- 
uice  of  wild  herbage, 
t.  The  trees  were  in- 
Avhose  song  travelers 
ich  plumage,  but  ob- 
e  sweet  notes  struck 
I  amorous  cooings  of 
the  river  and  eagerly 
al  camels,  at  the  sight 
re  led,  and  in  rushing 
I  and  occasioned  great 

urckhardt  saw  on  the 
3nt  times,  but  was  de- 
lanions  that  it  was  the 


JOURNEY  THROUOn  TAKKA. 


217 


haunt  of  banditti.  On  the  5th  of  June,  while  the  caravan  halted  at  an 
encampment  of  the  Hadendoa  Bedouins,  Burckhardt  beheld  tlio  eflccts 
of  a  desert  storm :  "  Toward  evening  we  were  visited  by  another  hur- 
ricane, the  most  tremendous  I  ever  remember  to  have  witnessed.  A 
dark  blue  cloud  first  appeared,  extending  to  about  25°  above  the  hori- 
zon ;  as  it  approached  nearer  and  increased  in  height,  it  assumed  an 
ash-gray  color,  with  a  tinge  of  yellow,  striking  every  person  in  tlie  carsi- 
van  who  had  not  been  accustomed  to  such  phenomena  with  amazement 
at  its  magnificent  and  terrific  appearance  ;  as  the  cloud  approached  still 
nearer  the  yellow  tinge  became  more  general,  while  the  horizon  presented 
the  brightest  azure.  At  last  it  burst  upon  us  in  its  rapid  course,  and  in- 
volved us  in  darkness  and  confusion  ;  nothing  could  be  distinguished  at 
the  distance  of  five  or  six  feet ;  our  eyes  were  filled  with  dust ;  our  tem- 
porary sheds  were  blown  down  at  the  first  gust,  and  many  of  tlic  more 
firmly  fixed  tents  of  the  Hadendoa  followed ;  the  largest  withstood  for 
a  time  the  efiects  of  the  blast,  but  were  at  last  obliged  to  yield,  and  the 
whole  camp  was  leveled  with  the  ground.  In  the  mean  time  the  terri- 
fied camels  arose,  broke  the  cords  by  which  thej  were  fastened,  and  en- 
deavored to  escape  from  the  destruction  which  appeared  to  threaten 
them ;  thus  adding  not  a  little  to  our  embarrassment.  After  blowing 
about  half  an  hour  with  incessant  violence,  the  wind  suddenly  abated, 
and  when  the  atmosphere  became  clear,  the  tremendous  cloud  was  seen 
continuing  its  havoc  to  the  north-west " 

Next  day  they  reached  Takka,  a  district  famous  for  its  fertility,  where 
hares,  gazelles,  wolves,  giraflfes,  and  lions,  as  large,  it  was  said,  as  cows, 
were  foimd  in  the  woods.  Hence,  after  a  stay  of  several  days,  they  de- 
parted for  Souakin,  and  after  a  not  unpleasant  journey  through  a  wild, 
picturesque  country,  approached  the  termination  of  their  toils.  On  the 
moniing  of  the  last  day  they  started  before  sunrise.  "The  eastern 
hills,"  says  Burckhardt,  '•  terminate  in  this  latitude ;  and  the  sun  was 
just  rising  beyond  them  when  we  descried  its  reflection  at  an  immense 
distance  in  the  sea,  affording  a  pleasing  sight  to  every  individual  in  the 
caravan,  but  most  of  all  to  me."  The  whole  of  the  route,  from  Shendy 
to  Souakin,  had  never  before  been  traversed  by  a  European.  At  length, 
on  the  26th  of  June,  they  reached  Souakin,  and  pitched  their  little  sheda 
at  about  twenty  minutes'  walk  from  the  town.  Next  day  they  were 
visited  by  the  emir,  who,  understanding  that  our  traveler's  camel  was 
an  excellent  animal,  determined  on  takmg  it  as  a  part  of  the  caravan 
dues;  upon  which  Burckhardt  insisted  upon  referring  their  difference 
to  the  Turkish  custom-house  officer.  His  wishes  were  quickly  complied 
with,  but  the  aga,  instead  of  interfering  to  protect  the  stranger,  imme- 
diately conceived  the  idea  of  uniting  with  the  emir  in  seizing  ui)on  the 
whole  of  his  property;  and,  therefore,  pretending  to  regard  liim  as  a 
Mameluke  spy,  began  at  once  to  overwhelm  him  with  abuse.  To  all 
this  Burckhardt  returned  no  reply,  but  requested  the  aga  to  inform  him 
whether  the  emir  was  entitled  to  his  camel.    "  Not  only  thy  camel,"  re- 


i 

I 


218 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS   OP    BUnOKHARDT. 


it" 


plied  the  Turk,  "  but  thy  whole  baggage  must  be  taken  and  searched. 
We  shall  render  a  good  account  of  them  to  the  pasha,  depend  upon  it. 
You  shall  not  impose  upon  us,  you  rascal ;  and  you  may  be  thankful  if 
we  do  not  cut  off  your  head !"    The  traveler  protested  that  he  was  noth- 
ing  but  an  unfortunate  merchant,  and  endeavored,  by  a  submissive  de- 
iwrtment,  to  pacify  his  anger ;  but  "  he  began  cursing  and  swer-ring  in 
Turkish,"  says  Burckhardt,  "and  then  calling  an  old  cripple,  to  whom  he 
had  given  the  title  of  waly,  or  police  officer,  he  ordered  him  to  tie  my 
hands,  to  put  me  in  prison,  and  to  bring  my  slave  and  baggage  into  his 
presence,     I  now  thought  it  high  time  to  produce  my  firmans,  which  I 
drew  from  a  secret  pocket  in  my  thaboot ;  one  of  them  was  written  in 
Turkish,  upon  a  piece  of  paper  two  feet  and  a  half  in  length,  and  one 
foot  in  breadth,  and  was  sealed  with  the  great  seal  of  Mohammed  Ali ; 
the  other,  a  smaller  one,  was  written  in  Arabic,  and  bore  the  seal  of 
Ibraliim  Pasha,  his  son,  in  which  Ibrahim  termed  me  '  Our  man,  Ibrahim, 
the  Syrian.'    When  Yemak  saw  the  firmans  unfolded,  he  became  com- 
pletely stupefied,  and  the  persons  present  looked  at  me  with  amazement. 
The  aga  could  read  the  Arabic  only,  but  he  kissed  them  both,  put  them 
to  his  forehead,  and  then  protested  to  me,  in  the  most  submissive  terms, 
that  it  was  the  good  of  the  public  service  alone  that  had  led  him  to  treat 
me  as  he  had  done,  and  for  which  he  begged  me  a  thousand  pardons. 
Nothing  more  was  said  about  the  emir's  right  to  my  camel,  and  he  de- 
clared that  I  should  pay  no  duty  for  my  slave,  though  he  was  entitled 

to  it." 

Burckhardt  now  disposed  of  his  camel,  and  took  his  passage  to  Jidda 
in  one  of  the  country  vessels.'  After  tossing  about  the  Red  Sea  for 
nearly  a  fortnight,  visiting  Mekouar,  and  several  pomts  of  the  African 
coast,  he  arrived  at  Jidda  on  the  18th  of  July,  1814.  His  first  care  now 
was  to  present  his  letter  of  credit,  which,  being  of  an  old  date,  he  was 
refused  payment,  though  the  merchant  offered  him  a  lodging  at  his 
house.  This  he  accepted,  but  removed  two  days  afterward  to  a  public 
khan,  where  ho  was  attacked  by  a  fever,  in  which  he  lay  delirious  for 
several  days.  His  recovery  from  this  violent  disorder,  which  he  attributed 
to  his  indulging  in  the  fine  fruits  of  the  Jidda  market,  seems  to  Lave 
been  chiefly  owing  to  the  kindness  of  a  Greek  captain,  who,  having  been 
his  fellow-passenger  from  Souakin,  attended  him  during  one  of  his  lucid 
intervals,  and,  at  his  own  request,  procured  a  barber,  who  bled  him 
copiously. 

JOURNET   TO   MECCA   AND   MEDINA. 

At  Jidda  Burckhardt  was  reduced  to  the  hard  necessity  of  parting 
with  his  slave,  for  whom  he  obtained  forty-eight  dollars,  of  which  thirty- 
two  were  profit.  With  this  money  he  dressed  himself  in  the  guise  of  a 
reduced  Egyptian  gentleman,  and  determined  to  remain  in  the  Hedjaz 
untU  the  time  of  the  pUgrimage  in  the  following  November.    However, 


s£!si^is&tm. 


HARDT. 

taken  and  searched, 
wha,  depend  upon  it. 
H  may  be  thankful  if 
ted  that  he  was  noth- 
hy  a  submissive  de- 
jing  and  swer-ring  in 
I  cripple,  to  whom  he 
rdered  him  to  tie  my 
md  baggage  into  his 
ray  firmans,  which  I 
them  was  written  in 
f  in  length,  and  one 
I  of  Mohammed  Ali ; 
md  bore  the  seal  of 
B  '  Our  man,  Ibrahim, 
ded,  he  became  com- 
me  with  amazement, 
them  both,  put  them 
lost  Bubmissive  terms, 
I,  had  led  him  to  treat 
a  thousand  pardons, 
my  camel,  and  he  de- 
ough  ho  was  entitled 

k  his  passage  to  Jidda 
out  the  Red  Sea  for 
points  of  the  African 
4.  His  first  care  now 
f  an  old  date,  he  was 
iiim  a  lodging  at  his 
afterward  to  a  public 
I  he  lay  delirious  for 
er,  which  he  attributed 
aarket,  seems  to  Lave 
tain,  who,  having  been 
luring  one  of  his  lucid 
»arber,  who  bled  him 


EDINA. 

i  necessity  of  parting 
oUars,  of  which  thirty- 
nself  in  the  guise  of  a 
remain  in  the  Hedjaz 
November.    However, 


VISIT   TO    MOHAMMED    ALI. 


219 


as  his  funds  were  far  too  low  to  enable  him  to  live  independently  until 
that  period,  he  began  to  turn  his  thoughts  toward  manual  labor ;  but 
first  determined  upon  trying  the  effect  of  a  direct  application  to  Moham- 
med Ali,  then  at  Tayf.  He  accordingly  wrote  to  his  highnesses  Arme- 
nian physician,  who  was  likewise  at  Tayf  with  his  master,  requesting  him 
to  learn  from  the  pasha  whether  ho  would  accept  a  bill  upon  Burck- 
hardt's  correspondent  at  Cairo,  and  order  his  treasurer  at  Jidda  to  pay 
the  amount  of  it.  Before  the  result  of  this  application  could  be  known, 
he  received  an  invitation  to  the  house  of  Toossoon  Pasha's  physician,  v.ho, 
on  being  acquainted  >vith  the  state  of  his  finances,  kindly  offered  him  the 
sum  of  three  thousixnd  piasters  (about  $160)  for  a  bill  upon  Cairo  pay- 
able at  sight.  Mohammed  Ali,  to  whom  his  condition  was  accidentally 
made  known,  immediately  dispatched  a  messenger  with  two  dromeda- 
ries, an  order  lor  five  hundred  piasters,  and  a  request  that  he  would  repair 
immediately  with  the  messenger  to  Tayf.  With  this  invitation,  which 
was,  in  fact,  equivalent  to  a  command,  he  thought  it  necessary  to  com- 
ply, and  .accordingly  set  off"  on  the  same  afternoon  (24th  Atigust)  for  the 
interior  of  the  Hedjaz. 

They  were  accompanied  during  the  first  portion  of  the  way  by  about 
twenty  camel-drivers  of  the  tribe  of  Harb,  who  were  carrying  money  to 
Mecca  for  the  pasha's  treasury.  The  road  at  first  lay  over  a  barren 
sandy  plain,  ascending  slightly  as  it  receded  from  the  sea ;  it  then  en- 
tered the  narrow  gorges  of  a  mountainous  country,  where  they  overtook 
a  caravan  of  pilgrims,  who  were  accompanying  a  quantity  of  goods  and 
provisions  destined  for  the  army.  The  pasha,  who,  no  doubt,  suspected 
the  sincerity  of  Burckhardt's  creed,  had  given  orders  to  the  guide  to  con- 
duct him  by  a  by-road  to  Tayf,  which  lay  to  the  north  of  Mecca :  "  Just 
before  we  left  Hadda,"  says  Burckhardt,  "  my  guide,  who  knew  nothing 
further  respecting  me  than  that  I  had  business  with  the  pasha  at  Tay^ 
that  I  performed  all  the  outward  observances  of  a  Moslem  pilgrim,  and 
that  I  had  been  liberal  to  him  before  our  departure,  asked  me  the  reason 
of  his  having  been  ordered  to  take  lue  by  the  northern  road.  I  replied 
that  it  was  probably  thought  shorter  than  the  other.  '  That  is  a  mistake,' 
he  replied ;  '  the  Mecca  road  is  quite  as  short,  and  much  safer ;  and  if  you 
have  no  objection  we  will  proceed  by  it.'  This  was  just  what  I  wished, 
though  I  had  taken  care  not  to  betray  any  anxiety  on  the  subject ;  and 
we  accordingly  followed  the  great  road,  in  company  with  the  other  trav- 
elers." 

On  this  occasion,  however,  Burckhardt  saw  but  little  of  the  sacred 
city,  as  the  guide,  who  had  no  curiosity  to  gratify,  hurried  through  the 
streets  without  allowing  him  time  for  observation.  Continuing  their 
journey,  therefore,  toward  the  east,  they  arrived,  on  the  27th  of  August, 
at  Ras  el  Kora,  where  they  passed  the  night.  "This,"  says  the  traveler, 
"  is  the  most  beautiful  spot  in  the  Hedjaz,  and  more  picturesque  and  de- 
lightful than  any  spot  I  had  seen  since  my  departure  from  Lebanon,  in 
Syria.   The  top  of  Jebel  Kora  is  flat,  but  large  masses  of  granite  lie  scat- 


m 


HMM 


timmmi0t0i 


ir 


220 


LIFE  AND  TRAVELS  OF  BUROKHARDT. 


tered  over  it,  the  surface  of  which,  like  that  of  the  granite  rocks  near  the 
second  cataract  of  the  Nile,  is  blackened  by  the  sun.  Several  small  rivu- 
lets descend  from  this  peak,  and  irrigate  the  plain,  which  is  covered  with 
verdant  iields  and  large  shady  trees,  on  the  side  of  the  granite  rocks. 
To  those  who  have  only  known  the  dreary  and  scorching  sands  *i  the 
lower  country  of  the  Hcdjaz,  this  Rccne  is  as  surprising  as  the  keen  air 
which  blows  here  is  refreshing.  Many  of  the  fruit-trees  of  Europe  are 
found  here ;  figs,  apricots,  peaches,  apples,  the  Egyptian  sycamore,  al- 
monds, pomegranates ;  but  particularly  vines,  the  produce  of  which  is  of 
the  best  quality.  After  having  passed  through  this  delightful  district 
for  about  half  an  hour,  just  as  the  sun  was  rising,  when  every  leaf  and 
blade  of  grass  was  covered  with  a  balmy  dew,  and  every  tree  and  shrub 
diffused  a  fragrance  as  delicious  to  the  smell  as  was  the  landscape  to  the 
eye,  I  halted  near  the  largest  of  the  rivulets,  which,  although  not  more 
than  two  paces  across,  nourishes  upon  its  banks  a  green  alpine  tur^ 
such  as  the  mighty  Nile,  with  all  its  luxuriance,  can  never  produce  in 
Egpyt." 

Upon  reaching  Tay^  he  caused  his  arrival  to  be  made  known  to  the 
pasha, who,  upon  learning  his  desire  to  visit  the  Holy  Cities,  expressed  a 
wish  to  see  him  late  in  the  evening  at  his  public  residence,  and  observed 
to  the  Kadi  of  Mecca,  who  happened  to  be  present,  "  It  is  not  the  beard 
alone  which  proves  a  man  to  be  a  true  Moslem ;  but  you  are  a  better 
judge  in  such  matters  than  I  am."  Our  traveler,  on  learning  these  par- 
ticulars, affected  to  be  much  hurt  by  the  pasha's  suspicions,  and  let  the 
physician,  who  was  the  bearer  of  the  message,  know  that  he  should  not 
go  to  the  pasha's  public  audience  unless  he  was  received  as  a  Turk. 
When  the  physician  delivered  this  message,  Mohammed  Ali  smiled,  and 
said  that  he  was  welcome,  whether  Turk  or  not.  On  this  occasion  he 
•was  closely  catech'zed  by  two  experienced  teachers  of  the  Moslem  faith, 
who  declared  to  the  pasha  that  he  was  not  only  a  true  Mussulman,  but 
one  of  great  learning  and  piety.  The  audience  passed  off  well.  But 
Burckhardt  clearly  discovered  that  he  was  regarded  as  a  spy  of  the  En- 
glish government ;  that  his  conduct  was  narrowly  watched ;  and  that,  in 
being  made  the  guest  of  the  physician,  he  was  a  kind  of  prisoner,  whose 
words  and  actions  were  reported  to  the  pasha.  This  was  by  no  means 
an  agreeable  position.  He  therefore  determined  to  be  delivered  from  it ; 
and,  in  order  to  effect  his  purpose,  adopted  the  most  prudent  plan  that 
could  have  been  imagined  :  he  rendered  himself  so  troublesome  and  ex- 
pensive to  his  host,  that  the  latter,  in  order  to  be  freed  from  him,  repre- 
sented him  in  the  most  favorable  light  to  Mohammed  Ali,  and  contrived 
to  obtain  him  permission  to  spend  the  last  days  of  the  Ramadan  at  Mecca. 

Accordingly,  on  the  7th  of  September,  Burckhardt  departed  in  com- 
pany with  the  Kadi  for  the  Holy  City.  On  passing  Wady  Mohram,  he 
assumed  the  ihram,  the  dress  worn  by  all  pilgrims  during  the  Hadji,  and 
consisting  of  two  pieces  of  linen,  woolen,  or  cotton  cloth,  one  of  which  is 
wrapped  round  the  loins,  while  the  other  is  thrown  over  the  neck  and 


ARDT. 

jiite  rocks  near  the 

Several  small  rivu- 

ich  is  covered  with 

the  granite  rocks. 

ching  sands  rf  the 

ing  as  the  keen  air 

ees  of  Europe  are 

)tian  sycamore,  al- 

(duce  of  which  is  of 

delightful  district 

fhen  every  leaf  and 

ery  tree  and  shrub 

the  landscape  to  the 

,  although  not  more 

green  alpine  turf, 

n  never  produce  in 

made  known  to  the 
Y  Cities,  expressed  a 
dence,  and  observed 
"  It  is  not  the  beard 
jut  you  are  a  better 
n  learning  these  par- 
spicions,  and  let  the 
nr  that  he  should  not 
received  as  a  Turk, 
imed  Ali  smiled,  and 
On  thin  occasion  he 
of  the  Moslem  faith, 
true  Mussulman,  but 
>assed  off  well.  But 
d  as  a  spy  of  the  En- 
ivatched  ;  and  that,  in 
nd  of  prisoner,  whose 
his  was  by  no  means 
be  delivered  from  it ; 
)st  prudent  plan  that 
I  troublesome  and  ex- 
reed  from  him,  repre- 
ed  Ali,  and  contrived 
le  Ramadan  at  Mecca, 
irdt  departed  in  comr 
g  Wady  Mohram,  he 
during  the  Hadji,  and 
cloth,  one  of  which  is 
a  over  the  neck  and 


RESIDENCE    AT    MECCA. 


221 


shoiddcrs,  so  as  to  leave  part  of  the  right  arm  bare.  In  this  dress  he 
arrived  at  Mecca,  on  the  0th  of  September ;  and,  as  the  law  enjoins,  pro- 
ceeded immediately  to  visit  the  temple,  before  he  had  attended  to  any 
worldly  concern  whatever.  The  ceremonies  practiced  on  this  occasion 
are  long  and  tedious.  Having  completed  these  performances,  he  hired 
a  ready-furnished  lodging  in  the  house  of  a  metowwaf,  or  guide  to  the 
holy  places ;  who,  while  the  poor  Hadji  was  occupied  with  his  devotions, 
employed  his  spare  moments  industriously  in  stealing  whatever  he  could 
from  his  traveling-sack. 

Being  desirous  of  completing  his  traveling  equipments  before  tlio 
commencement  of  the  Iladj  (pilgrimage),  Burckhardt  proceeded  to  Jidda, 
where  such  things  are  more  easily  procured  than  at  Mecca,  and  again 
returned  about  the  middle  of  October,  with  a  slave-boy  whom  he  pur- 
chased. He  hired  apartments  in  an  unfrequented  part  of  the  city, 
where  he  enjoyed  the  advantage  of  several  large  trees  growing  before 
his  windows,  "the  verdure  of  which,"  says  he,  "among  the  barren  and 
sunburnt  rocks  of  Mecca,  was  to  me  more  exhilarating  than  the  finest 
landscape  could  have  been  under  different  circumstances."  The  princi- 
pal curiosity  of  Mecca  is  the  beit  vUah,  or  House  of  God,  a  species  of 
quadrangle,  in  the  center  of  which  stands  the  Kaaba,  "  an  oblong  mass- 
ive structure,  eighteen  paces  in  length,  fourteen  in  breadth,  and  from 
thirty-five  to  forty  feet  in  height.  It  is  constructed  of  the  gray  Mecca 
stone,  in  large  blocks  of  different  sizes,  joined  together  in  a  very  rough 
manner,  and  with  bad  cement."  "  At  the  north-east  corner  of  the 
Kaaba,  near  the  door,  is  the  famous  '  Black  Stone  ;'  it  forms  a  part  of 
the  sharp  angle  of  the  building  at  four  or  five  feet  above  the  ground. 
It  is  an  irregular  oval  of  about  seven  inches  in  diameter,  with  an  undu- 
lating surface,  composed  of  about  a  dozen  smaller  stones  of  different 
sizes  and  shapes,  well  joined  together  with  a  small  quantity  of  cement, 
and  perfectly  smoothed.  It  looks  as  if  the  whole  had  been  broken  into 
many  pieces  by  a  violent  blow,  and  then  united  again.  It  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  determine  accurately  the  quality  of  this  stone,  which  has  been 
worn  to  its  present  surface  by  the  millions  of  touches  and  kisses  it  has 
received.  It  appeared  to  me  like  a  lava,  containing  several  small  extra- 
neous particles,  of  a  whitish  and  of  a  yellowish  substance.  Its  color  is 
now  a  deep  reddish  brown,  approaching  to  black.  It  is  surrounded  on 
all  sides  by  a  border,  composed  of  a  substance  which  I  took  to  be  a 
close  cement  of  pitch  and  gravel,  of  a  similar,  but  not  quite  the  same, 
brownish  color.  This  border  serves  to  support  its  detached  pieces.  It 
is  two  or  three  inches  in  breadth,  and  rises  a  little  above  the  surface 
of  the  stone.  Both  the  border  and  the  stone  itself  are  encircled  by  a 
silver  band,  broader  below  than  above,  and  on  the  two  sides,  with  a 
considerable  swelling  below,  as  if  a  part  of  the  stone  were  hidden  under 
it.    The  lower  part  of  the  border  is  studded  with  silver  nails." 

On  the  2l8t  of  November,  1814,  the  approach  of  the  Syrian  caravan 
was  announced  by  a  messenger,  whose  horse  dropped  down  dead  the 


222 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS    OF   BURCKHARDT. 


moment  lie  (liHmountcd.  Several  other  persons  followed  in  about  two 
Lours  utler ;  and  during  the  night  the  main  body,  with  the  Pasha  of 
Damascus  at  its  head,  come  up,  and  encamped  in  the  plain  of  Shekh 
Maluuoud.  Xext  morning  the  Egyptian  caravan  likewise  arrived  ;  and 
at  the  same  time  Mohammed  Ali,  who  desired  to  be  present  at  the  Hadj, 
appeared  unexpectedly  at  Mecca,  dressed  in  an  ihram  composed  of  two 
magnificent  shawls  of  Cashmere.  All  the  hadjis  residing  in  the  city  now 
assumed  the  ihram,  with  the  usual  ceremonies,  at  their  own  lodgings, 
preparatory  to  their  setting  out  for  Mount  Arafat,  and  at  noon  heard  a 
short  sermon  in  the  mosque. 

The  city  was  now  full  of- movement  and  activity;  all  the  pilgrims 
were  preparing  to  set  out  for  Arafat,  some  running  hither  and  thither  in 
search  of  lodgings,  others  \'isiting  the  markets  or  the  Kaaba.  Many 
Meccans,  engaged  in  petty  traffic,  were  hastening  to  establit^h  them- 
selves on  the  mountain,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  pilgrims.  Camel- 
drivers  led  their  beasts  through  the  streets,  offering  tiicm  to  the  pilgrims 
for  hire.  On  the  24th  of  November  the  Syrian  caravan,  >vith  the  Mah- 
mal,  or  sacred  camel,  in  front,  passed  in  procession  through  the  city. 
The  majority  of  the  pilgrims  rode  in  a  species  of  palanquin,  placed  upon 
their  camels ;  but  the  Pasha  of  Damascus,  and  other  grandees,  were 
mounted  in  splendid  litters,  which  were  borne  by  two  camels.  The 
heads  of  these  picturesque  animals  were  decorated  with  feathers,  tassels, 
and  bells.  Crowds  of  people  of  all  classes  lined  the  streets,  and  greeted 
the  pilgrims  as  they  passed  with  loud  acclamations  and  praise.  The 
martial  music  of  the  pasha,  twelve  finely-caparisoned  horses  led  in  front 
of  liis  palanquin,  and  the  rich  litters  in  which  his  women  rode,  particu- 
larly attracted  attention.  The  Egyptian  caravan  followed  soon  after, 
and,  consisting  entirely  of  military  pilgrims  in  the  splendid  Turkish  cos- 
tume, was  no  less  admired  than  its  predecessor.  Both  continued,  with- 
out stopping,  their  march  to  Arafat,  and  were  almost  immediately  fol- 
lowed by  the  other  pilgrims  in  the  city,  and  by  far  the  greater  proportion 
of  the  population  of  Mecca  and  Jidda,  among  whom  Burckhardt  likewise 
proceeded  to  the  sacred  hill. 

He  reached  the  camp  about  three  hours  after  sunset.  The  pilgrims 
were  still  wandering  about  the  plain,  and  among  the  tents,  in  search  of 
their  companions,  or  of  their  resting-place,  and  many  did  rot  arrive  until 
midnight.  Numberless  fires  glimmered  upon  the  dark  plain  to  the  ex- 
tent of  several  miles;  and  high  and  brilliant  clusters  of  lamps  marked 
the  different  places  of  encampment  of  Mohammed  Ali,  Soleyman  Pasha, 
and  the  Emir  el  Hadj  of  the  Egyptian  caravan.  Few  slept :  "  the  de- 
votees set  up  praying,  and  their  loud  chants  were  particularly  distin- 
guished on  the  side  of  the  Syrian  encampment.  The  merry  Meccans 
formed  themselves  into  parties,  singing  jovial  songs,  accompanied  by 
clapping  of  hands ;  and  the  coffee-houses  scattered  over  the  plain  were 
crowded  all  night  with  customers.  The  night  was  dark  and  cold.  I 
had  formed  a  resting-place  for  myself  by  means  of  a  large  carpet  tied 


HARDT. 


CEREMONIES  AT  MOUNT  ARAFAT. 


223 


lowed  in  about  two 
y,  with  the  Pasha  of 

the  plain  of  Shekh 
kcwise  arrived ;  and 

present  at  the  Iladj, 
im  composed  of  two 
liding  in  the  city  now 
their  own  lodgings, 
ind  at  noon  heard  a 

ity;  all  the  pilgrims 
hither  and  thither  in 

the  Kaaba.  Many 
I  to  establish  them- 
lie  pilgrims.  Camel- 
tiiem  to  the  pilgrims 
avan,  vriih  the  Mah- 
n  through  the  city, 
lanquin,  placed  upon 
ther  grandees,  were 
y  two  camels.  The 
rith  feathers,  tassels, 
streets,  and  greeted 
18  and  praise.    The 

horses  led  in  front 
romen  rode,  particu- 
followed  soon  after, 
)lendid  Turkish  cos- 
)th  continued,  with- 
[)St  immediately  fol- 
e  greater  proportion 
Burckhardt  likewise 

iset.  The  pilgrims 
J  tents,  in  search  of 

did  rot  arrive  until 
rk  plain  to  the  ex- 
rs  of  lamps  marked 
li,  Soleyman  Pasha, 
Bw  slept :  "  the  de- 

particularly  distin- 
Tie  merry  Meccans 
fs,  accompanied  by 
»ver  the  plain  were 

dark  and  cold.  I 
a  large  carpet  tied 


to  the  back  of  a  Meccan's  tent ;  and  having  walked  about  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  night,  I  had  just  disposed  myself  to  sleep,  when  two  guns, 
tired  by  the  Syrian  and  Egyptian  H.idj,  announced  the  approaching 
dawn  of  the  day  of  pilgrimage,  and  summoned  the  faithful  to  prejtare 
for  their  morning  prayers." 

The  scene  which,  on  the  unfolding  of  the  dawn,  presented  itself  to 
the  eye  of  the  traveler,  was  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  upon  earth. 
"  Every  pilgrim  issued  from  his  tent  to  walk  over  the  plains,  and  take  a 
view  of  the  busy  crowds  assembled  there.  Long  streets  of  tents,  fitted 
up  as  bazaars,  furnished  all  kinds  of  provisions.  The  Syrian  and  Egyp- 
tian cavalry  were  exercised  by  their  chiefti  early  in  the  moniing,  while 
thousands  of  camels  were  seen  feeding  upon  the  dry  shrubs  of  the  plain 
all  round  the  camp."  Burckhardt  now  ascended  the  summit  of  Arafat, 
whence  he  could  enjoy  a  distant  view  of  the  whole,  the  mountain  being 
an  isolated  moss  of  granite,  reaching  to  the  height  of  two  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  plain.  From  this  point  he  counted  about  three 
thousand  tents,  but  the  far  greater  number  were,  like  himself,  without 
tents.  Twenty  or  twenty-five  thousand  camels  were  dispersed,  in  sei>- 
arate  groups,  over  the  plain  ;  and  the  number  of  pilgrims  of  both  sexes, 
and  of  all  classes,  could  not  amount  to  less  than  seventy  thousand. 
"  The  Syrian  Hadj  was  encamped  on  the  south  and  south-west  side  of 
the  mountain  ;  the  Egyptian  on  the  south-east.  Around  the  house  of 
the  Sherif,  Yahya  himself  was  encamped  with  hia  Bedouin  troops,  and 
in  its  neighborhood  were  all  the  Hcdjaz  people.  Mohammed  AH,  and 
Soleyman,  Pasha  of  Damascus,  as  well  as  several  of  their  officers,  had 
very  handgome  tents ;  but  the  most  magnificent  of  all  was  that  of  the 
wife  of  Mohammed  Ali,  the  mother  of  Toossoon  Pasha  and  Ibrahim 
Pasha,  who  had  lately  arrived  at  Cairo  for  the  Iladj,  with  a  truly  royal 
equipage,  five  hundred  camels  being  necessary  to  transport  her  baggage 
from  Jidda  to  Mecca.  Her  tent  was  in  fact  an  encampment,  consisting 
of  a  dozen  tents  of  different  sizes,  inhabited  by  her  women  ;  the  whole 
inclosed  by  a  wall  of  linen  cloth,  eight  hundred  paces  in  circuit,  the 
single  entrance  to  which  was  guarded  by  eunuchs  in  splendid  dresses. 
Around  this  inclosure  were  pitched  the  tents  of  the  men  who  formed  her 
numerous  suite.  The  beautiful  embroidery  on  the  exterior  of  this  linen 
palace,  with  the  various  colors  displayed  in  every  part  of  it,  constituted 
an  object  which  reminded  me  of  some  descriptions  in  the  Arabian  Tales 
of  the  Thousand  and  One  Nights." 

Among  the  prodigious  crowd  were  persons  from  every  comer  of  the 
Mohammedan  world.  Burckhardt  counted  forty  different  languages, 
and  did  not  doubt  that  there  were  many  more.  About  three  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon,  the  pilgrims,  quitting  their  tents,  which  were  immediately 
struck,  and  mounting  their  camels,  pressed  forward  toward  Mount  Ara- 
fet,  and  covered  its  sides  from  top  to  bottom.  The  preacher  now  took 
his  stand  upon  the  platform  on  the  mountain,  and  began  to  address  the 
multitude.    The  hearing  of  the  sermon,  which  lasts  till  sunset,  constitutes 


224 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    BUUCKHARDT. 


the  holy  ceremony  of  the  Hadj,  and  M'ithout  being  present  at  it,  and  at 
least  appearing  to  hear,  no  pilgrim  is  entitled  to  the  name  of  hadjt.  "  The 
two  i)ashas,  with  their  whole  cavalry  drawn  up  in  two  squadrons  behind 
them,  took  their  post  in  tho  rear  of  tho  deep  line  of  camels  of  the  hadjls, 
to  which  those  of  the  people  of  the  Iledjaz  were  also  joined :  and  here 
they  waited  in  solemn  and  respectful  silence  the  conclusion  of  the  sermon. 
Further  removed  from  the  preacher  was  the  Shcrif  Yahya,  with  his  small 
body  of  soldiers,  distinguished  by  several  green  standards  carried  before 
him.  Tho  two  Mahmals,  or  holy  camels,  which  carry  on  their  backs  the 
high'structuro  that  serves  as  the  banner  of  their  respective  caravans, 
made  way  with  difficulty  through  the  ranks  of  camels  that  encircled  the 
southeni  and  eastern  sides  of  the  hill,  opposite  to  tho  preacher,  and  took 
their  station,  surrounded  by  their  guards,  directly  under  the  platform  in 
front  of  him.  The  preacher,  or  khatyb,  who  is  usually  the  Kadi  of  Mecca, 
was  mounted  upon  a  finely-caparisoned  camel,  which  had  been  led  up  the 
steps ;  it  being  traditionally  said  that  Mohammed  was  always  seated 
when  he  addressed  his  followers,  a  practice  in  which  he  was  imitated  by 
all  the  caliphs  who  came  to  tho  Hadj,  and  who  from  hence  addressed 
their  subjects  in  person.  Tho  Turkish  gentleman  of  Constantinople, 
however,  unused  to  camel-riding,  could  not  keep  his  seat  so  well 
as  the  hardy  Bedouin  prophet ;  and  the  camel  becoming  unruly,  he  was 
soon  obliged  to  alight  from  it.  Ho  read  his  sermon  from  a  book  in 
Arabic,  which  he  held  in  his  hands.  At  intervals  of  every  four  or  five 
minutes  he  paused,  and  stretched  forth  his  arms  to  implore  blessuigs  from 
above ;  while  the  assembled  multitudes  around  and  before  him  waved 
the  skirts  of  their  ihrams  over  their  heads,  and  rent  the  air  with  shouts 
of  LebeyJe^  Allah,  hvma  Lebeyk  ! — "  Here  we  are  at  thy  bidding,  O  God !" 
During  the  wavings  of  the  ihrams,  the  sides  of  the  mountain,  thickly 
crowded  as  it  was  by  the  people  in  their  white  garments,  had  the  appear- 
ance of  a  cataract  of  water ;  while  the  green  umbrellas,  with  which  seve- 
ral thousand  hajjts,  sitting  on  their  camels  below,  were  provided,  bore 
some  resemblance  to  a  verdant  plain." 

Burckhardt  was  present  at  all  the  remaining  ceremonies  of  the  Hadj, 
and  after  observing  whatever  was  worthy  of  examination  both  at  Mecca 
and  Jidda,  ho  joined  n  small  caravan  of  pilgrims  who  were  going  to  visit 
the  tomb  of  the  prophet,  and  set  out  for  Medina  on  the  15th  of  January, 
1815.  During  this  journey  he  imprudently  advanced  before  the  caravan, 
and  was  attacked  by  five  Bedouins,  from  whom  he  was  quickly  delivered, 
however,  by  the  approach  of  his  companions.  They  reached  Medina  on 
the  28th  of  January.  The  ceremonies  practiced  in  this  city  were  much 
less  tedious  than  those  at  Mecca,  and  did  not  occupy  hira  more  than  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  Here,  shortly  aAer  his  arrival,  he  was  attacked  by 
an  intermittent  fever,  accompanied  by  extraordinary  despondency.  His 
condition,  indeed,  was  well  calculated  to  insjjire  gloomy  thoughts ;  for 
he  had  no  society,  and  but  one  book,  which  was,  however,  as  he  observes, 


,:.,.„.;.lv.-. 


—  — •  ^  > -^S^ -•**i«(»— 


HARDT. 

present  at  it,  and  at 
namcof hadjt.  "The 
vo  Hquadrons  behind 
camels  of  the  hadjts, 
Iso  joined :  and  here 
ilusion  of  the  sernioii. 
fahya,  with  his  small 
idards  carried  before 
ry  on  their  backs  the 
respective  caravans, 
els  that  encircled  the 
10  preacher,  and  took 
inder  the  platform  in 
ly  the  Kadi  of  Mecca, 
1  had  been  led  up  the 
i  was  always  seated 
h  he  was  imitated  by 
om  hence  addressed 
n  of  Constantinople, 
ep  his  seat  so  well 
jming  unruly,  he  was 
rmon  from  a  book  in 

of  every  four  or  five 
mplore  blessings  from 
id  before  him  waved 
at  the  air  with  shouts 
thy  bidding,©  God!" 
the  mountain,  thickly 
lents,  had  the  appear- 
jllas,  with  which  seve- 

were  provided,  bore 

remonies  of  the  Hadj, 
ination  both  at  Mecca 
lio  were  going  to  visit 
I  the  15th  of  January, 
ed  before  the  caravan, 
n'as  quickly  delivered, 
3y  reached  Medina  on 
n  this  city  were  much 
!upy  him  more  than  a 
1,  he  was  attacked  by 
ry  despondency.  His 
2;loomy  thoughts ;  for 
wevcr,  as  he  observes, 


VISIT   TO    ItBDINA. 


226 


worth  a  whole  shelf  full  of  others.    ThU  was  a  pocket  edition  of  Milton, 
which  he  had  borrowed  from  an  English  ship  at  Jidda. 

Medina,  it  is  well  known,  is  chiefly  indebted  to  the  tomb  of  Moham- 
med for  its  celebrity.    This  mausoleum,  which  stands  on  the  south-east- 
ern corner  of  the  principal  mosque,  is  protected  from  the  too  near  ap- 
proach  of  visitors  by  an  iron  railing,  painted  green,  about  two  thirds  the 
height  of  the  pillars  of  the  colonnade  which  runs  round  the  iiiterior  of 
the  mosque.     "  The  railing  is  of  good  workmanship,  in  imitation  of  fili- 
gree, and  is  interwoven  with  open-worked  inscriptions  of  yellow  bronze, 
supposed  by  the  vulgar  to  be  of  gold,  and  of  so  close  a  texture,  that  no 
view  can  bo  obtained  of  the  interior  except  by  several  small  windows 
about  six  inches  square,  which  are  placed  in  the  four  sides  of  the  raUing, 
abotit  five  feet  above  the  ground."     On  the  south  side,  where  are  the  two 
principal  windows,  before  which  the  devout  stand  Avhen  praying,  the  raU- 
ing is  plated  with  silver,  and  the  common  inscription— "  There  is  no  God 
but  God,  the  Evident  Truth"— is  wrought  in  silver  letters  round  the 
windows.    The  tomb  itself,  as  weU  as  that  of  Abu  Bekr  and  Omar,  which 
stand  close  to  it,  is  concealed  from  the  public  gaze  by  a  curtain  of  rich 
silk  brocade  of  various  colors,  interwoven  with  sUver  flowers  and  ara- 
besques, with  inscriptions  in  characters  of  gold  running  across  the  midst 
of  it,  Uke  that  of  the  covering  of  the  Kaaba.    Behind  this  curtain,  which, 
according  to  the  historian  of  the  city,  was  formerly  changed  every  six 
years,  and  is  now  renewed  by  the  Porte  whenever  the  old  one  is  decayed, 
or  when  a  new  eultan  ascends  the  throne,  none  I  it  the  chief  eunuchs, 
the  attendants  of  the  mosque,  are  permitted  to  enter.    This  holy  sane 
tuary  once  served,  as  the  temple  of  Delphi  did  among  the  Greeks,  as  the 
public  treasury  of  the  nation.    Here  the  money,  jewels,  and  other  pre- 
cious articles  of  the  people  of  the  Hedjaz  were  kept  in  chests,  or  sus- 
pended on  silken  ropes.    Among  these  was  a  copy  of  the  Koran  in  Kufic 
characters;  a  brilliant  star  set  in  diamonds  and  pearls,  which  was  sus- 
pended directly  over  the  prophet's  tomb;  with  all  sorts  of  vessels  set 
with  jewels,  earrings,  bracelets,  necklaces,  and  other  ornaments,  sent  as 
presents  from  all  parts  of  the  empire.    Most  of  these  articles  were  car- 
ried away  by  the  Wahabees  when  they  sacked  and  plundered  the  sacred 

On  the  2l8t  of  AprU,  1816,  Burckhardt  quitted  Medma  with  a  smaU 
caravan  bound  for  Yembo,  on  the  sea-coast  His  mind  was  stiU  exceed- 
ingly depressed  by  the  weak  state  of  his  body;  and  his  gayety  and  am- 
mal  spirits,  which  had  supported  him  through  so  many  arduous  scenes, 
appear  to  have  deserted  him  at  last.  Upon  his  arrival  at  Yembo,  de- 
jected and  melancholy,  to  add  to  his  despondency,  he  found  the  plague 
ra<ring  in  the  city.  The  air,  night  and  day,  was  filled  with  the  piero- 
ing  cries  of  those  who  had  been  bereaved  of  the  objects  of  their  affe^ 
tion ;  yet,  as  no  vessel  was  ready  to  sail  for  Egypt,  he  was  constramed 
to  remain  during  eighteen  days  in  the  midst  of  the  dying  and  the  dead, 
continuaUy  exposed  to  infection  through  the  heedlessness  and  the  impru- 

15 


226 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    BURCKHAttDT. 


dcnoe  of  liis  slave.  At  length,  how(!Vcr,  ho  procured  a  passage  in  an 
open  bout  bound  tor  Cosseir,  many  of  the  passengers  in  wliieh  wore  sick 
of  a  disease  which  appeared  to  be  the  plague,  though  only  ;wo  of  them 
died.  After  remaining  twenty  days  on  board,  he  was,  at  his  own  re- 
quest, put  on  shore  in  the  harbor  of  Sherin,  at  the  entrance  of  the  CJulf 
of  Akaba,  where  ho  agreed  with  some  Bedouins  to  transport  him  and  his 
slave  to  Tor  and  Suez.  Learning  on  the  way,  however,  that  the  plague 
was  at  Suez,  he  remtuned  at  a  village  in  the  vicinity  of  the  former  place, 
where  the  enjoyment  of  tranquillity  and  a  bracing  mountain  air  soon  re- 
stored his  strength,  and  enabled  him,  though  still  enfeebled,  to  pursue 
his  journey  to  Cairo,  where  he  arrived  on  the  24th  of  June,  afler  an  ab- 
sence of  nearly  two  years  and  a  half.  As  his  health  was  not  yet  com- 
pletely recovered,  ho  undertook  a  journey  into  Lower  Egypt  during  the 
following  winter,  which,  as  ho  seems  to  have  believed,  restored  his  con- 
stitution to  its  former  tone. 

His  time  was  now  entirely  occupied  in  writing  the  journal  of  his 
Nubian  and  Arabian  travels,  and  in  the  necessary  care  of  his  health, 
which,  notwithstanding  his  sanguine  expectation  to  the  contrary,  was 
still  in  a  somewhat  equivocal  state.  In  the  spring  of  1816,  the  plague 
again  broke  out  at  Cairo,  and  Burckhardt,  to  avoid  the  infection,  under- 
took a  journey  to  Mount  Sinai,  intending  to  remun  among  the  Bedouins 
until  the  pestilence  should  bo  over.  During  this  excursion  ho  traced 
the  course  of  the  eastern  branch  of  the  Red  Sea  to  within  sight  of 
Akaba,  which  he  was  prevented  by  circumstances  from  visiting.  On 
his  return  to  Cairo,  he  united  with  Mr.  Salt  in  furnishing  Belzoni  with 
money  for  transporting  the  head  of  Memnon  from  Goorneh  to  Alex- 
andria. The  scheme,  it  would  seem,  originated  with  Burckhardt  and 
Salt,  to  whom,  therefore,  the  British  Museum  is  chiefly  indebted  for  the 
possession  of  that  remarkable  specimen  of  ancient  art. 

On  the  4th  of  October,  1817,  Burckhardt,  who  had  so  long  waited 
in  v^n  for  an  opportunity  of  penetrating  with  a  Moggrebin  caravan  to 
Timbuctoo,  by  way  of  Fezzan,  was  attacked  with  violent  dysentery. 
The  best  medical  advice  which  an  eminent  English  physician  (Doctor 
Richardson),  then  at  Cairo,  could  afford  was  found  unavailing.  The 
disease  prevailed,  and  on  the  15th  of  the  same  month  the  able,  adven- 
turous, and  lamented  traveler  breathed  his  last  at  the  early  age  of  thirty- 
three  years.  As  he  had  lived  while  in  the  East  as  a  Mussulman,  the 
Turks,  he  foresaw,  would  claim  his  body,  "  and  perhaps,"  said  he  to  Mr. 
Salt,  who  was  present  at  his  death-bed,  "  you  had  better  let  them." — 
"  The  fmieral,  as  he  desired,"  says  this  gentleman,  "  was  Mohammedan, 
conducted  with  all  proper  regard  to  the  respectable  rank  which  he  had 
held  in  the  eyes  of  the  natives."  This  was  honorable  to  his  Cairo 
friends ;  and  to  those  who  are  interested  in  the  history  of  his  manly 
career  it  is  gratifying  to  discover  how  highly  he  was  valued.  His  re- 
mjuns,  unmariced  by  any  memorial,  lie  somewhere  in  the  Moslem  bury- 
ing-ground  on  the  eastern  side  of  Cairo,  where  another  traveler  of  equal 


HARDT. 

urcd  n  |)aflHagc  in  un 
m  ill  wiiich  wore  sick 
ig!i  only  t,\vo  of  them 
!  wait,  at  his  own  re- 
entrance  of  the  CJulf 
transport  him  and  hia 
rcvcr,  that  the  plague 
y  of  the  former  place, 
mountain  air  soon  ru- 
[  enfeebled,  to  pursue 
I  of  June,  afler  an  ab- 
ilth  was  not  yet  conv- 
ver  Egypt  during  the 
ved,  restored  his  con- 

ig  the  journal  of  his 
ry  care  of  his  health, 
to  the  contrary,  was 
;  of  1816,  the  plague 
1  the  infection,  under- 
a  among  the  Bedouins 
I  excursion  he  traced 
ea  to  within  sight  of 
}S  from  visiting.  On 
mishing  Belzoni  with 
am  Goornch  to  Alex- 
with  Burckhardt  and 
liicfly  indebted  for  the 
art. 

0  had  so  long  waited 
IVIoggrebin  caravan  to 
th  violent  dysentery, 
[lish  physician  (Doctor 
und  unavailing.  The 
lonth  the  able,  adven- 
the  early  age  of  thirty- 
t  as  a  Mussulman,  the 
srhaps,"  said  he  to  Mr. 
i  better  let  them." — 
,  "was  Mohammedan, 
ble  rank  which  he  had 
onorable  to  his  Cairo 

1  history  of  his  manly 
e  was  valued.  His  re- 
3  in  the  Moslem  bury- 
other  traveler  of  equal 


nia   ORAVR. 


227 


courage,  onthuMJasm,  and  energy — Jolm  Lodyanl — was  buricil  tnoio 
than  twenty  years  before  liim.  Since  Hurckhardt'H  death,  otlu'i  s  have 
wiilkod  in  his  steps  an<l  many  of  the  pliioes  which  lie  visited  with  so 
much  difficulty  and  peril,  are  now  accessible  to  all  triivekrs,  but  no  one 
h'M  surpassed  him  in  prudence  and  intrepiility,  no  one  has  lived  a  lile  of 
such  romantic  interest,  or  productive  of  more  rich  results. 


'^ 


■■■^  '.mi'^&i 


BELZ  ON  rS 

EXPLORATIONS     IN    EGYPT 


THTfl  enterprising  traveler  and  explorer,  descended  from  a  respectable 
T,  an  flaTwriom  at  Padua,  wWtier  his  relations  had  many  years 
Roman  family,  ^as/^*™  *'    ^Psi^ned  bv  his  parents  for  some  monastic 

T"h^;raT:try^  a"^^^^^^^^  -^-^  ^"^^'^  '' 

order,hewa8at  avej^  ea  y   g  ^^^^^^^      ^nd  spent  the  greater 

'^TnySrvoi     Here  the  sciences  would  appear  to  have  obtained  a 
part  of  his  youtb.     ne  ^^^^^^  ^^  ^^^^^^      ^^^^, 

'"f  f  CtaXr^  She  o-d  mu'ch  of  the  reputation  which  he 
ticularly  Jy^'*";^'''.^^^^^  The  invasion  of  Italy,  and  the  capture 

t  Rime  bX  Fr  n  b^^  *^«  P-«^^"^  ^"*  insignificant  plan  of 

?rw!hL  had  traced  out  for  himself.    Instead  of  a  monk  he  be- 
r^Leler     Demrting  from  Rome  in  the  year  1800,  he  for  some 
came  a  *™^«^«5-    ;^,^7v^„  Continent,  deriving  bis  subsistence,  as  he  him- 

:rorr?rfr:^^^^^^^ 

short  time,  no  less  f^'^'^^^JjtmXSXere  he  not  long  afterward 

In  the  year  1803  ho  armed  m  Eng»*«*^^«Yv  performing  in  public 

carried.    In  that  ^^^^^  ^^  ^^J^tie^mf  eSiE^^    still,  with  a 

feats  of  prodigious  strengh^ and  by  ^^^^^  ^^^^^.^„^  ^„^,.,tencc 

xnanly  independence  Pff  "^^  th«  ga^J^"g       ^^^^  ^  of  his  fam- 

by  these  means  to  the  idea  of  draming  the  sien  ^^^^^^  ^^ 

Uy,  or  of  resortmg  to  those  ^^V^^l  ^fordgners  in  England. 
gSn  which  too  frequently  empoy  the  tden^  of  f««^^  J^  ^^^ 

Lving  remained  nine  y^^JL^^^ .^^t^i^^^^^  ^^ 
desire  of  visiting  ^^o  «o«*^  ^  f^'^'S^^a  Malta     It  seems  to  have 
him,  traveled  through  Portugal,  Sp^,  and  MaUa.    1        ^^^^  ^^  ^^^ 
been  during  this  part  of  h«  travels  that  ho  learnca  ^^^^^ 

sidered  unexceptionable  -f  ^f '  f^^",:  ^ht^^^^^^^^^^  machine  would 
be  turned  to  good  account  m  Egypt,  w^.re  an    j 


280 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS   OF    BBLZONI. 


be  of  the  greatest  utility  in  irrigating  the  fields,  which  need  water  only 
to  make  them  produce  at  any  season  of  the  year.  ,  -     ,,       ^ 

He  accordingly  took  his  passage  on  board  of  a  ship  bound  for  Egypt, 
and  arrived  in  the  harbor  of  Alexandria  on  the  8th  of  June,  1815     The 
plague,  he  learned,  was  then  prevailing  in  the  city,  but  gradually  de- 
creLng  in  malignity.    St.  John's  day,  the  24th  of  June,  was  likewise 
at  hand,  on  which  it  usually  ceases  entirely,  through  the  interference, 
as  the  vulgar  believe,  of  the  saint,  but  in  reaUty  fi-om  the  intense  heat 
of  the  sun,  which  has  by  that  time  exhaled  the  miasmata  which  are  the 
immediate  cause  of  the  plague.    Belzoni,  who  was  accompanied  by  his 
wife  and  a  young  Irish  lad,  named  Curtain,  landed,  notwithstanding  the 
disease  ;  and  having  remained  secluded  in  the  caravanserai,  untU  after 
the  24th,  set  off  for  Cairo.    On  reaching  that  city,  where  he  meant  to 
make  an  offer  of  his  services  to  the  pasha,  to  whose  principal  interpreter 
he  brought  letters  of  recommendation,  he  obtained  lodgings  m  an  old 
house  of  vast  size  and  ruinous  condition.    Though  antiquities,  as  he  ob- 
serves, were  not  at  that  time  his  object,  he  could  not  refrain  from  visit- 
ine  the  Pyramids.    He  accordingly  accompanied  an  English  gentleman 
to  the  spot,  where  they  passed  the  night,  and  long  before  dawn  had 
ascended  the  summit  of  the  highest  pile,  to  behold  the  sun  nse  over  the 

land  of  Egypt.  ,  «     ,         ^  a^ 

"The  scene  here,''  says  he,  "is  majestic  and  grand,  fkr  beyond  de- 
scription :  a  mist  over  the  plains  of  Egypt  formed  a  vail,  which  ascended 
and  vanished  gradually  as  the  sun  rose,  and  unvaUed  to  the  view  that 
beautiful  land,  once  the  site  of  Memphis.    The   distant  view  of  the 
smaller  pyramids  on  the  south  marked  the  extension  of  that  vast  capital, 
while  the  solemn  endless  spectacle  of  the  desert  on  the  west  msmred  us 
with  reverence  for  the  all-powerful  Creator.    The  fertile  lands  on  the 
north,  with  the  serpentine  course  of  the  Nile,  descending  toward  the  sea ; 
the  rich  appearance  of  Cairo  and  its  minarets,  at  the  foot  of  the  Mokat- 
tam  mountain,  on  the  east ;  the  beautiful  pl^  which  extends  froni  the 
Pyramids  to  that  city ;  the  NUe,  which  flows  magnificently  through  the 
center  of  the  Sacred  Valley;  and  the  thick  groves  of  palm-trees  under 
our  eyes,  altogether  formed  a  scene  of  which  a  very  imperfect  idea  can 
be  given  by  the  most  elaborate  description." 

A  few  days  afler  his  return  to  Cairo  he  was  to  have  been  presented 
to  the  pasha,  but  on  the  way  to  the  citadel  was  attacked  and  wounded 
by  a  Turkish  soldier  in  such  a  maimer  that  he  was  compeUed  to  defer 
his  presentation  for  thirty  days.  Mohammed  Ali  had  not  at  that  time 
property  established  his  power ;  for,  when  informed  of  the  injury  which 
had  been  inflicted  on  his  guest,  he  only  observed  that  such  accidents 
were  not  to  be  prevented  in  cities  filled  with  troops.  This  point  was 
very  soon  made  still  clearer.  In  a  few  days  the  soldiers  burst  out  mto 
open  rebelUon,  pillaged  the  inhabitants,  committed  every  descnption  ot 
atrocity,  and  pursued  his  highness  himself  into  his  castle,  where  they 
for  some  time  held  him  besieged.    When  this  storm  had  blown  over, 


! 

■ 


►  NI. 

eh  need  water  only 

bound  for  Egypt, 

June,  1815.  The 
I,  but  gradually  de- 
June,  was  likewise 

the  interference, 
m  the  intense  heat 
Imata  which  are  the 
iccompanied  by  his 
lOtwithstanding  the 
anserai,  until  after 
where  he  meant  to 
)rincipal  interpreter 

lodgings  in  an  old 
ntiquities,  as  he  ob- 
t  refrain  from  visit- 
English  gentleman 
',  before  dawn  had 
he  Bun  rise  over  the 

and,  &r  beyond  dc- 
vail,  which  ascended 
ed  to  the  view  that 
distant  view  of  the 
1  of  that  vast  capital, 
the  west  inspired  us 
fertile  lands  on  the 
ding  toward  the  sea ; 
}  foot  of  the  Mokat- 
sh  extends  fi-om  the 
ificently  through  the 
of  palm-trees  under 
'  imperfect  idea  can 

lave  been  presented 
Acked  and  wounded 
8  compelled  to  defer 
ad  not  at  that  time 

of  the  injury  which 
that  such  accidents 
ps.  This  point  was 
iiers  burst  out  into 
svery  description  of 

castle,  where  they 
m  had  blown  over, 


REUOYAL   OF   THE   HEAD   OF   MB1£N0N. 


231 


Belzoni,  whose  hydraulic  project  was  highly  approved  of  by  the  pasha, 
commenced  the  construction  of  his  machine  in  the  gardens  of  the  latter, 
at  Shoobra,  three  miles  from  Cairo.  As  Mohammed  Ali  was  not  bigot- 
edly  attached  to  oriental  fashions,  he  freely  permitted  Belzoni  to  be 
witness  of  his  amusements,  which  he  was  sometimes  even  called  upon 
to  multiply.  During  his  stay  at  Shoobra,  business  frequently  required 
his  presence  at  Cairo,  where,  on  one  occasion,  he  narrowly  escaped 
being  shot  by  a  Turkish  soldier.  The  ruffian  having  struck  him  in  the 
street,  he  returned  the  blow ;  upon  which  the  Turk  drew  his  pistol, 
fired  at  him,  singed  his  hair,  and  killed  one  of  his  own  comrades  who 
happened  to  be  standing  behind  the  traveler.  The  man  was  next  day 
apprehended  by  the  pasha,  and  never  more  heard  of.  When  the  hy- 
draulic machine  was  completed,  its  power  was  made  trial  of  in  the  pres- 
ence of  Mohammed  Ali,  who,  perceiving  that  as  an  innovation  it  was 
regarded  with  extraordinary  dislike  by  the  Turkish  and  Arabic  cultiva- 
tors, abandoned  the  project  altogether,  without  even  remunerating  the 
traveler  for  the  loss  of  time  and  money  which  he  had  incurred. 

Notwithstanding  these  circumstances,  Belzoni  found,  upon  calcula- 
tion, that  his  finances  would  still  enable  him  to  ascend  the  Nile  as 
far  as  Assouan ;  and  was  about  to  proceed  up  the  country  when  Burck- 
hardt  and  Mr.  Salt,  who  had  previously  discussed  the  point  together, 
determined  upon  the  removal  of  the  colossal  head  of  young  Mcmnon  to 
England,  for  the  purpose  of  being  presented  to  the  British  Museum ; 
and  requested  Belzoni,  as  one  of  the  fittest  persons  that  could  be  fotmd, 
to  undertake  the  task.  The  expenses  Burckhardt  and  Mr.  Salt  were  to 
defray  between  them.  A  report  was,  it  seems,  circulated  even  during 
the  lifetime  of  Belzoni,  and  previous  to  the  publication  of  his  travels, 
that  in  this  affiur  he  was  merely  the  paid  agent  of  Mr.  Salt  (for,  as  a 
professed  Mohammedan,  Burckhardt  did  not  choose  to  appear).  This, 
however,  was  clearly  not  the  case.  In  a  letter  addressed  to  the  African 
Association,  dated  Cairo,  February  20th,  1817,  Burckhardt  says,  "You 
will  be  pleased  to  hear  that  the  colossal  head  from  Thebes  has  at  last, 
ufler  many  difficulties,  safely  arrived  at  Alexandria.  Mr.  Belzoni,  who 
offered  himself  to  undertake  this  commission,  has  executed  it  with  great 
spirit,  intelligence,  and  perseverance.  The  head  is  waiting  now  at 
Alexandria  for  a  proper  conveyance  to  Malta.  Mr.  Salt  and  mvsolf 
have  borne  the  expenses  jointly ;  and  the  trouble  of  the  undertaking 
has  devolved  upon  Mr.  Belzoni,  whose  name  I  wish  to  be  mentioned,  if 
ever  ours  shall,  on  this  occasion,  because  ho  was  actuated  by  public 
spirit  fully  as  much  as  ourselves." 

Few  things  are  more  interesting  in  themselves,  or  less  captivating  in 
description,  than  a  search  after  antiquities.  Belzoni,  after  visiting  Her- 
montis  and  Dendera,  arrived  at  Thebes,  which,  from  the  time  of  Strabo 
to  the  present  moment,  has  excited  the  wonder  and  admiration  of  every 
traveler  who  has  beheld  it.  "  It  is  absolutely  impossible,"  says  Belzoni, 
"  to  imagine  the  scene  displayed,  without  seeing  it.    The  most  sublime 


m 


232 


LIFE    AND    TRAVELS   OF    BBLZONI. 


ideas  that  can  be  formed  from  the  most  magnificent  specimens  of  our 
present  architecture  would  give  a  very  incorrect  picture  of  these  ruins ; 
for  such  is  the  dilSerence,  not  only  in  magnitude,  but  in  form,  propor- 
tion, and  construction,  that  even  the  pencU  can  convey  but  a  faint  idea 
of  the  whole.  It  appeared  to  me  like  entering  a  city  of  giants,  who, 
after  a  long  conflict,  were  all  destroyed,  leaving  the  ruins  of  their  va- 
rious temples  as  the  only  proof  of  their  existence." 

After  a  brief  examination  of  these  mighty  ruins,  he  crossed  to  the 
western  bank  of  the  Nile,  where,  amid  the  vast  remains  of  the  Mcm- 
Doniuin,  was  the  colossal  head  which  he  was  to  remove.  He  found  it, 
he  says,  near  the  remains  of  its  body  and  chair,  with  its  face  upward, 
and  apparently  smiling  on  him  at  the  thought  of  being  taken  to  En- 
gland. The  implements  which  he  had  brought  from  Cairo  were  suffi- 
ciently simple :  fourteen  poles,  eight  of  which  were  employed  in  making 
a  sort  of  car  to  lay  the  bust  on,  four  ropes  of  palm-leaves,  and  four  rol- 
lers, without  tackle  of  any  sort.  Their  boat  lying  too  far  to  be  used 
as  a  lodging  every  night,  they  established  themselves  in  the  Memnon- 
ium,  where,  as  the  traveler  remarks,  they  were  handsomely  lodged  in  a 
small  hut  formed  of  stones.  Mrs.  Belzoni  seems,  in  fact,  to  have  been 
as  enterprising  and  romantic  as  her  husband,  and  made  no  difficulty 
about  the  rudeness  of  their  accommodation.  It  is  not  necessary  to  give 
a  detailed  account  of  his  laborious  exertions,  or  those  of  the  Arabs  in 
conveying  the  head  to  the  Nile.  It  will  be  sufficient  to  state,  that  after 
incredible  toil  and  perseverance,  it  was  at  length  brought  to  the  edge 
of  the  stream  on  the  12th  of  August,  1816. 

This  object  being  effected,  he  made  an  excursion  to  the  sepulchral  ex- 
cavations in  the  mountain  of  Goomeh,  celebrated  for  the  quantity  of 
mummies  which  they  contain.  Into  this  A'ast  labyrinth  he  entered  with 
two  Arabs  and  his  interpreter.  They  were  in  search  of  a  sarcophagus 
which  was  said  to  have  been  discovered  by  Drovetti,  the  French  Con- 
sul at  Alexandria ;  but,  in  roaming  about  amid  the  dreary  passages,  lost 
their  way,  which,  without  extraordinary  good  fortune,  might  have  been 
the  first  step  to  losing  their  lives.  In  laboring  to  find  a  passage  out, 
they  came  to  a  small  aperture,  through  which  the  interpreter  and  one  of 
the  Arabs  passed  easily,  but  Belzoni,  who  was  a  very  large  man,  found 
it  too  small.  "  One  of  the  Arabs,  however,  succeeded,  as  did  my  inter- 
preter ;  and  it  was  then  agreed,"  says  he,  "  that  I  and  the  other  Arab 
should  wait  till  their  return.  They  proceeded  evidently  to  a  great  dis- 
tance, for  the  Ught  disappeared,  and  only  a  murmuring  sound  from  their 
voices  could  be  distinguished  as  they  went  on.  After  a  few  moments  I 
heard  a  loud  noise,  and  the  interpreter  distinctly  crying,  '  O  mon  Dieu ! 
O  mon  Dieu  !  je  suis  perdu !'  after  which  n  profound  silence  ensued.  I 
asked  my  Arab  whether  he  had  ever  been  in  that  place.  He  replied, 
*  Never.'  I  could  not  conceive  what  could  have  happened,  and  thought 
the  best  plan  was  to  return  to  procure  help  from  the  other  Arabs.  Ac- 
cordingly, I  told  my  man  to  show  mo  the  way  out  again ;  but,  staring 


MWlMHi 


•MM** 


NI. 

specimens  of  oar 
uro  of  these  ruins ; 
t  in  form,  propor- 
ruy  but  a  faint  idea 
sity  of  giants,  who, 

ruins  of  their  vo- 

he  crossed  to  the 
nains  of  the  Mcra- 
ove.  He  found  it, 
h  its  face  upward, 
)ping  taken  to  En- 
m  Cairo  were  suffi- 
imployed  in  making 
eaves,  and  four  rol- 
too  far  to  be  used 
>3  in  the  Memnon- 
Isomely  lodged  in  a 
n  fact,  to  have  been 

made  no  difficulty 
ot  necessary  to  give 
)se  of  the  Arabs  in 
it  to  state,  that  after 
brought  to  the  edge 

to  the  sepulchral  ex- 
for  the  quantity  of 
[nth  he  entered  with 
ch  of  a  sarcophagus 
tti,  the  French  Con- 
dreary  passages,  lost 
inc,  might  have  been 
find  a  passage  out, 
iterpreter  and  one  of 
jry  large  man,  found 
ded,  as  did  my  inter- 
and  the  other  Arab 
clently  to  a  great  dis- 
ing  soimd  from  their 
Her  a  few  momenta  I 
•ying,  '  O  mon  Dieu ! 
id  silence  ensued.  I 
t  place.  He  replied, 
ippened,  and  thought 
ie  other  Arabs.  Ao- 
;  again ;  but,  staring 


JOURNEY    INTO  NUBIA. 


283 


at  me  like  an  idiot,  ho  said  he  did  not  know  the  road.  I  called  re- 
peatedly to  the  interpreter,  but  received  no  answer.  I  watched  a  long 
time,  but  no  one  returned,  and  my  situation  was  no  very  pleasant 
one." 

At  length,  however,  by  dint  of  laborious  perseverance,  they  issued 
into  the  upper  air ;  and  as  the  sarcophagus,  which  they  had  discovered, 
could  not  at  that  moment  be  removed,  Belzoni  conceived  the  design  of 
making  a  small  excursion  into  Nubia.  Accordingly,  he  proceeded  up 
the  river  to  Assouan,  where,  after  much  altercation,  he  procured  a  fresh 
boat  to  carry  him  to  the  second  cataract.  He  admired,  in  passing,  the 
beautiful  island  of  PhilsB,  rich  in  the  ruins  of  antiquity.  On  the  next  day 
several  natives,  armed  with  spears  and  shields  of  crocodile  skins,  came  in 
boats  to  attack  them  on  the  river ;  but  observing  them,  Mrs.  Belzoni  and 
all,  to  be  armed  with  pistols,  very  prudently  retired.  At  Derr,  the  capi- 
tal of  Lower  Nubia,  he  purchased,  with  a  small  looking-glass,  permission 
to  continue  his  voyage.  Previous  to  this,  many  of  the  people  of  the 
country  had  never  enjoyed  the  gratification  of  contemplating  the  reflec- 
tion of  their  own  countenances.  On  arriving  at  Abou-Simbel,  he  saw, 
wit ' .  amazement,  the  great  rock-temple  noticed  by  Burckhardt.  He  im- 
mediately conceived  the  design  of  clearing  away  the  sand  which  ob- 
structed the  entrance  into  the  temple,  and  made  the  proposal  to  the  vil- 
lagers, promising,  in  order  to  excite  them  to  the  task,  a  present  in 
money ;  but  soon  found  that  he  had  at  length  arrived  in  a  region  where 
money  had  ceased  to  be  omnipotent.  The  people  stared  at  his  piasters 
as  they  would  have  stared  at  a  letter  in  an  unknown  language,  and  in- 
quired who  would  give  them  any  thing  for  such  small  bits  of  metal  as 
those?  However,  he  by  degrees  succeeded  in  convincing  them  that 
money  possessed  over  civilized  men,  and  all  who  came  within  their  in- 
fluence, a  mysterious  power  which  they  could  not  resist.  This  seemed 
at  first  to  produce  a  good  effect ;  but  the  love  of  money  once  excited, 
they  knew  not  where  to  stop ;  and  their  avarice,  which  he  had  reckoned 
his  best  ally,  soon  exhausted  his  means,  so  that  before  he  had  half-com- 
pleted his  undertaking  he  was  compelled  to  desist,  and  continue  his  voy- 
age up  the  Nile  to  the  second  cataract. 

Having  gratified  his  curiosity  Avith  a  glance  at  these  celebrated  spots, 
Belzoni  returned  to  Asso^ian,  and  from  thence  proceeded  to  Thebes, 
where  he  immediately  put  in  train  the  measures  necessary  for  conveying 
down  the  river  the  Memnon's  head,  and  various  other  antiquities.  The 
obstacles  which  were  thrown  in  his  way  by  the  obstinacy  of  the  natives, 
and  the  intrigues  of  Drovetti,  and  other  collectors  of  antiquities,  were 
numerous,  and  highly  disgraceful  to  their  originators.  Nevertheless,  on 
the  1 7th  of  November,  1 816,  he  succeeded  in  placing  the  head  on  board  of 
a  boat,  in  which  he  set  sail  on  the  21st  for  Cairo,  where  ho  arrived  on 
the  15th  of  December,  after  a  voyage  of  twenty-four  days. 

From  Cairo,  Belzoni  proceeded  with  the  bust  down  the  Nile  to  Ro- 
setta  and  Alexandria ;  fi-om  whence,  after  having  placed  his  charge  in 


' 


u 
1 


■Wa^pii 


MiiMMIifl 


f 


* 


234  LIFE    AND    TRAVELS    OF    BELZONI. 

the  pasha's  warehouacR,  he  quickly  returned,  for  the  purpose  of  proceed- 
tl  on  a  second  voyage  up  the  Nile.  It  was  on  this  occasion  that  he  had 
Z  eood  Zuno  to  become  known  to  Mr.  Briggs,  wxth  whom  he  re- 
turnfd  to  Cairo.  Captain  Caviglia  had  at  this  period  commenced  his  re- 
lelrche  in  the  interior  of  the  first  pyramid  of  Ghizeh,  but  was  about  to 
SonUnue  them  for  lack  of  means,  when  Mr.  Briggs  mimificontly  en. 

ga'Tto  furnish  funds  for  the  P-P«-' '"  T^^«^ ';r  T'JJZi  should 
Mr  Salt  It  was  proposed  by  this  latter  gentleman  that  Belzoni  should 
To  nctptain  Caviglia  b  his  researches ;  but  the  traveler,  with  comm«nda- 
ble  amW  L,  prefLed  some  undertaking  in  which  a^l  the  credit  should 
rlund  to  himself;  and,  having  lefUiis  wife  at  the  house  o^  a  fr.nd  at 
Cairo,  he  once  more  ascended  the  Nile,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Beechey, 
to  whom  he  had  been  introduced  at  Alexandria. 

At  Eraramoun,  Belzoni  obtained  intelligence  that  two  agen  s  of  B.. 
DroTetti  were  hurrying  on  toward  Thebes,  in  the  hope  of  forestalling  him 
SthepurlaseofaLquitiesjupon^^^^^ 
i    Mr  Beechey  to  come  up  slowly  with  the  boat,  hurnedoff  by  night.    On 

re^Mng  the  ruins,  after  an  incredibly  fatiguing  Jouniey  of  five  days  he 
'  tod  that,  although  the  agents  were  not  arrived,  Mr.  Salt's  neglect  m 
not  pa^ng  the  way  with  a  handsome  present,  had  so  completely  irntated 
Z  bey  that  he  had  appropriated  to  M.  Drovetti  the  very  ground  upon 
which  Belzoni  had  commenced  his  excavations  during  his  first  journey. 
J:!;o  the  detl  of  these  quarrels,  which  continued  to  rage  durmg  Bel- 
zoni's  residence  in  Egypt,  it  is  not  necessary  to  ent^er 

The  most  interestmg  transaction,  perhaps,  m  which  Belzoni  ^^  as  any- 
where crgaged,  was  hifvisit  to  the  Necropolis  of  Thebes,  in  the  mount- 
Tin  of  ofomeh.    This  is  a  tract  of  about  two  miles  m  length,  at  the 
foot  of  the  Libyan  ridge.    Every  part  of  those  rocks  is  scooped  out  into 
a  sepulcher,  which,  however  close  it  may  be  to  other  sepulchral  cham- 
Lrsrhasrarelyan^interiorcommunicationwiththem.    I*  -  i-p^^^^^^^^ 
as  Belzoni  observes,  to  convey  by  description  an  adequate  idea  of  these 
^»Ue  reous  abodes  and  their  inhabitants.    No  other  fPU^chers  -  the 
worid  resemble  them.    There  are  no  excavations  or  mmes  that  can  be 
rmpa red  with  those  astonishing  places,  which  when  once  Been,  foreve 
'fter  haunt  the  imagination,  like  a  glimpse  of  the  regions  beyond  the 
Ave     Few  traveler  see  more  of  these  catacombs  than  the  exteno 
chamb^^rs,  from  which  the  dead  have  been  removed.    In  the  mtemr 
ep,th  ™  the  air  is  suffocating,  and  frequently  causes  &-tmg  Jhe 
dust  of  decayed  mummies,  which  is  so  fine  that  it  quickly  penetrates  in 
v^t  quanUties  to  the  lungs,  and  causes  a  difficulty  of  respiration ;  the 
Ittng  effluvia  of  decompo^d  bodies ;  the  dark,  dismal,  lonesome  7ec 
of  thf  Place  —every  thing  tends  to  discourage  the  intruder.    Belzoni 
I    wa^^nolho;^er,tobeleterred.    In  describing  the  difficulties  which 
he  here  encomitered,  he  observes.  "  In  some  places  there  is  not  mc^e 
than  the  vacancy  of  a  foot  left,  which  you  must  contrive  to  Pa««  ^^rough 
!    in  a  creeping  pasture,  Uke  a  snail,  on  pointed  and  keen  stones  that  cut 


__j 


MNP 


NI. 

iirpoBC  of  proceed-  \ 
;ca8ion  that  he  had 
with  whom  he  re-  | 
commenced  his  re- 
,  but  was  about  to 
rg  mmiificontly  en- 
c  was  seconded  by 
lat  Belzoni  should 
r,  with  commenda- 
1  the  credit  should 
louse  of  a  friend  at 
id  by  Mr.  Beechey, 

t  two  agents  of  Y. 
e  of  forestalling  hini 
o  asses,  and,  leaving 
doff  by  night.  On 
Qcy  of  five  days,  he 
[r.  Salt's  neglect,  in 
completely  irritated 
e  very  gi'ound  upon 
ig  his  first  journey, 
to  rage  during  Bel- 
r. 

ich  Belzoni  was  any- 
hcbes,  in  the  mount- 
les  in  length,  at  the 
:s  is  scooped  out  into 
er  sepulchral  cham- 
im.    It  is  impossible, 
equate  idea  of  these 
her  sepulchers  in  the 
>r  mines  that  can  be 
sn  once  seen,  forever 
regions  beyond  the 
bs  than  the  exterior 
^ed.    In  the  interior 
sauses  fainting.    The 
juickly  penetrates  in 
y  of  respiration ;  the 
imal,  lonesome  aspect 
10  intruder.    Belzoni 
the  difficulties  which 
88  there  is  not  more 
itrive  to  pass  through 
keen  stones  that  cut 


RESBARCHES    IN    THE    TOMBS. 


285 


J 


like  glass.  After  getting  through  these  passages,  some  of  them  two  or 
three  hundred  yards  long,  you  generally  find  a  more  commodious  place, 
perhaps  high  enough  to  sit.  But  what  a  place  of  rest  1  surroimded  by 
bodies,  by  heaps  of  mummies,  in  all  directions,  which,  previous  to  my 
being  accustomed  to  the  sight,  impressed  mo  with  horror.  The  black- 
ness of  the  wall ;  the  faint  light  given  by  the  candles  or  torches  for  want 
of  air ;  the  different  objects  that  were  around  me  seeming  to  converse 
with  each  other ;  and  the  Arabs  with  the  candles  or  torches  in  their 
hands,  naked  and  covered  with  dust,  themselves  resembling  living  mum- 
mies— absolutely  formed  a  scene  that  can  not  be  described.  In  such  a 
situation  I  found  myself  several  times,  and  often  returned  exhausted 
and  fainting,  till  at  last  I  became  inured  to  it,  and  indifferent  to  what  I 
suffered  except  from  the  dust,  which  never  failed  to  choke  my  throat 
and  nose  ;  and  though  fortunately  I  am  destitute  of  the  sense  of  smell- 
ing, I  could  taste  that  the  mummies  wero  rather  unpleasant  to  swallow. 
After  the  exertion  of  entering  into  such  a  place,  through  a  passage  of 
fifty,  a  hundred,  three  hundred,  or  perhaps  six  hundred  yards,  nearly 
overcome,  I  sought  a  resting-place,  found  one,  and  contrived  to  sit ;  but 
when  my  weight  bore  on  the  body  of  an  Egyptian,  it  crushed  it  like  a 
bandbox.  I  naturally  had  recourse  to  ray  hands  to  sustain  my  weight, 
but  they  found  no  better  support ;  so  tliat  I  sank  altogether  among  the 
broken  mummies,  with  a  crash  of  bones,  rags,  and  wooden  cases,  which 
raised  such  a  dust  as  kept  me  motionless  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  wait- 
ing till  it  subsided  again.  I  could  not  move  from  the  place,  however, 
without  increasing  it,  and  every  step  I  took  crushed  a  mummy  in  some 
part  or  other.  Once  I  was  conducted  from  such  a  place  to  another  re- 
sembling it,  through  a  passage  of  about  twenty  feet  in  length,  and  no 
wider  than  that  the  body  could  be  forced  through.  It  was  choked  with 
mummies,  and  I  could  not  pass  without  putting  my  face  in  contact  with 
that  of  some  decayed  Egyptian ;  but  as  the  passage  inclined  downward, 
my  own  weight  helped  me  on.  However,  I  could  not  help  being  cov- 
ered with  bones,  legs,  arms  and  heads,  rolling  from  above.  Thus  I  pro- 
ceeded from  one  cave  to  another,  all  full  of  mummies,  piled  up  in  various 
ways,  some  standing,  some  lying,  and  some  on  their  heads.  The  pur- 
pose of  my  researches  was  to  rob  the  Egyptians  of  their  papyri,  of  which 
I  found  a  few  hidden  in  their  breasts,  under  their  arms,  and  in  the  space 
above  the  knees,  or  on  the  legs,  and  covered  by  the  numerous  folds  of 
cloth  that  envelop  the  mummy," 

Belzoni  continued  indefatigably  making  new  researches  both  at 
Goomeh  and  Eamak,  but  was  at  length  put  to  flight  by  the  machina- 
tions of  the  French,  who  had  succeeded  in  gaining  over  to  their  party 
the  bey  of  the  province.  He  then  resolved  once  more  to  ascend  the 
Nile  to  Abou-Simbel,  and  was  fortunate  enough  to  meet  with  two  En- 
glish travelers,  Captuns  Irby  and  Mangles,  who  were  desirous  of  per- 
forming the  same  voyage.  They  hired  a  boat  between  them  at  Philse, 
and  setting  out  together  in  high  spirits,  visited  the  second  cataract,  and 


286 


LIFB    AND   TRAVELS   OP   BELZONI. 


then  rcturaod  to  Abou-Simbel.  Hero  the  wrong-headcdness  and  quar- 
relsome disposition  of  the  Nubians  considerably  obstructed  their  labors 
in  clearing  away  the  entrance  to  the  temple.  But  at  length,  having  dis- 
missed the  native  laborers,  and  undertaken  the  task  themselves,  they 
succeeded,  and  enjoyed  the  satisfaction  of  beholding  one  of  the  most 
perfect  and  beautiful  rook-temples  in  the  world.* 

*  "  About  two  hours  after  midnight,  I  was  awakened  fVom  a  deep  sleep  bj  the  shock 
of  the  boat  striking  the  shore.  I  opened  my  eyes  and  saw,  as  I  lay,  without  moving  my 
tieod,  a  huge  wall  of  rock  before  me,  against  which  six  enormous  statues  leaned  as  they 
looked  {torn  deep  niches  cut  in  its  fh>nt  Their  solemn  faces  were  touched  by  the  moon, 
wliich  shone  full  on  the  cliff,  and  only  their  feet  were  wrapped  in  shadow.  The  lines  of 
deep-cut  hieroglyphics  over  the  portaj  of  this  rocky  temple  were  also  filled  with  shadow 
and  painted  legibly  on  the  gray,  moonlit  rock.  Below  them  yawned  the  door — a  square 
of  complete  darkness.  A  little  to  the  loft,  over  a  long  drill  of  sand  that  sloped  ttom  the 
summit  of  the  cliff  nearly  to  the  water's  edge,  peered  the  miterod  head  of  a  statue  of  still 
more  colossal  proportions.  I  gazed  on  this  broad,  dim,  and  wonderful  picture  for  a  mo- 
ment, so  awed  by  its  majesty  that  I  did  not  ask  myself  where  or  what  it  was.  This  is 
some  grand  Egyptian  dream,  was  my  first  thought,  and  1  closed  my  eyes  for  a  few  sec- 
onds, to  see  whether  it  would  vanish.  But  it  stood  fast  and  silent  as  ever,  and  I  knew  it 
to  be  Abou-SimbeL  My  servants  all  slept,  and  the  rais  and  boys  noiselessly  moored  the 
boat  to  the  shore,  and  then  lay  down  and  slept  also.  Still  I  lay,  and  the  great  statues 
looked  solemly  down  upon  me,  and  the  moon  painted  their  kingly  nomens  and  banners 
with  yet  darker  distinctness  on  the  gray  rock.  The  river  made  no  sound  below,  the  long 
grass  stirred  not  a  blade  at  the  foot  of  the  crags,  and  the  slopes  of  sand  were  white  and 
dumb  as  snow.  I  lay  in  too  deep  a  repose  for  thought,  and  was  not  then  conscious  how 
grateful  was  such  a  silence  in  Nature,  while  the  moon  held  up  that  picture  before  me.  It 
might  have  been  two  minutes  or  twenty,  before  the  current  slowly  swung  the  stern  of 
the  boat  around,  and  the  picture  as  slowly  shifted  from  my  view,  leaving  instead  the 
Southern  Cross  in  its  shrine  of  stars. 

"  The  front  of  the  great  temple  is  not  parallel  to  that  of  the  other,  nor  does  it  face  the 
river,  which  here  flows  in  a  north-east  course.  The  line  of  the  cliff  is  broken  between  the 
two,  so  that  the  figures  of  the  great  Remeses,  seated  on  each  side  of  the  door,  look  to  the 
east,  the  direction  of  the  line  of  the  fkce  being  nearly  north.  Through  the  gap  in  front, 
the  sands  have  poured  down  from  the  Desert  behind,  almost  wholly  filling  up  the  space 
between  the  two  cliflk;  and  though  since  the  temple  was  first  opened,  by  Belzoni,  in 
1817,  it  has  been  cleared  nearly  to  the  base  more  than  once,  the  rapid  accumulation  of 
sand  has  again  almost  closed  the  entrance.  The  southern  colossus  is  only  buried  about 
halfway  to  the  knee,  but  of  the  two  northern  ones  there  is  little  else  to  be  seen  except 
the  heads.  Obscured  as  is  the  effect  of  this  grand  front,  it  is  still  without  parallel  in  the 
world.  I  had  not  thought  it  possible  that  in  statues  of  such  enormous  magnitude  there 
could  be  such  singular  beauty  of  expression.  The  face  of  Remeses,  the  same  in  each,  is 
iindnubtedly  a  portrait,  as  it  resembles  the  faces  of  the  statues  in  the  interior,  and  those 
of  the  King  in  other  places.  Besides,  there  is  an  individuality  in  some  of  the  features 
which  is  too  marked  to  represent  any  general  type  of  the  Egyptian  head.  The  fiillness 
of  the  drooping  eyelid,  which  yet  does  not  cover  the  large,  oblong  Egyptian  eye ;  the 
nose,  at  first  slightly  inclining  to  the  aquiline,  but  curving  to  the  round,  broad  nostrils; 
the  gecerous  breadth  of  the  calm  lips,  and  the  placid,  serene  expression  of  the  face,  are 
worthy  of  the  conqueror  of  Africa  and  the  builder  of  Kamak  and  Medeenet  Abou. 

"The  great  doorway  of  the  temple  is  so  choked  up  with  sand  that  I  was  obliged  to 
creep  in  on  my  knees.  The  sun  by  this  time  had  risen  exactly  to  the  only  point  where  it 
can  illumine  the  interior,  and  the  rays,  taking  a  more  yellow  hue  from  the  rock  and  sand 
CD  which  they  foil,  shone  down  the  long  drift  between  the  double  row  of  colossal  statue^ 


lifM 


•MM- 


■^ 


)NI. 

adedness  and  quar- 
ructed  their  labors 
t  length,  having  dis- 
sk  themselves,  they 
ig  one  of  the  most 


deep  sleep  by  the  shock 
lay,  without  moving  my 
us  statues  leaned  as  they 
)re  touched  by  the  moon, 
in  shadow.    The  lines  of 
also  filled  with  shadow 
wued  the  door — a  square 
and  that  sloped  flrom  the 
)d  head  of  a  statue  of  still 
mderful  picture  for  a  mo- 
or what  it  wa&     This  is 
led  my  eyes  for  a  few  sec- 
ant as  ever,  and  I  knew  it 
}ys  noiselessly  moored  the 
ay,  and  the  great  statues 
ingly  nomens  and  banners 
I  no  sound  below,  the  long 
!S  of  sand  were  white  and 
Eis  not  then  conscious  how 
that  picture  before  me.  It 
slowly  swung  the  stem  of 
view,  leaving  instead  the 

)  other,  nor  does  it  face  the 
cliff  is  broken  between  the 
ide  of  the  door,  look  to  the 
Through  the  gap  in  front, 
wholly  filling  up  the  space 
irst  opened,  by  Belzoni,  in 
the  rapid  accumulation  of 
tlossus  is  only  buried  about 
ittle  else  to  be  seen  except 
still  without  parallel  in  the 
enormous  magnitude  there 
meses,  the  same  in  each,  is 
3  in  the  interior,  and  those 
ity  in  some  of  the  features 
rptian  head.  The  flillneas 
oblong  Egyptian  eye;  the 
>  the  round,  broad  nostrils; 
I  expression  of  the  face,  are 
nd  Uedeenet  Abou. 
sand  that  I  was  obliged  to 
y  to  the  only  point  where  it 
lue  from  the  rock  and  sand 
ible  row  of  colossal  statuei^ 


THE   TEMPLE   OF   ABC  T-SIUBAL. 


287 


Having  completed  this  laborious  operation,  Belzoni  returned  to  his 
old  station  at  Thebes,  where  he  continued  his  researches  in  the  valley 
of  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings.  Here,  among  other  remarkable  antiquities, 
he  discovered  one  relic  of  the  ancient  world,  which  certainly  appears  to 
rank  among  the  most  beautiful  that  have  ever  been  exhumed.  "  It  is," 
says  he,  "  a  sarcophagus  of  the  finest  oriental  alabaster,  nine  feet  five 
inches  long,  and  three  feet  seven  inches  wide.  Its  thickness  is  only  two 
inches,  and  it  is  transparent  when  a  light  is  placed  inside  it.  It  is  mi- 
nutely sculptured  within  and  without  with  several  hundred  figures 
which  do  not  exceed  two  inches  in  height,  and  represent,  as  I  suppose, 
the  whole  of  the  funeral  procession  and  ceremonies  relating  to  the  de- 
ceased, united  with  several  emblems,  etc.    I  can  not  give  an  adequate 

and  lighted  up  the  entrance  to  the  second  hall  of  the  temple.  I  sat  down  in  the  sand, 
awed  and  half  fKghtened  by  the  singular  appearance  of  the  place.  The  sunshine,  falling 
obliquely  on  the  sands,  struck  a  dim  reflection  against  the  sculptured  roof,  and  even 
lighted  up  the  furthest  recesses  of  the  grand  hall  sufficiently  to  show  its  imposing  dimen- 
sions. Eight  square  pillars — four  on  either  side  r  '  the  central  aisle — seem  to  uphold  the 
roof,  and  on  their  inner  sides,  facing  each  other,  .re  eight  statutes  of  the  king.  The  fea- 
tures of  all  are  preserved,  and  have  something  if  the  grace  and  serenity,  though  not  the 
majesty  of  the  great  statues  outsida  They  look  into  each  other's  eyes,  with  an  eternal 
question  on  their  fixed  countenances,  but  none  can  give  answer.  There  was  something 
so  stem  and  strange  in  these  eight  faces,  that  I  felt  a  shudder  of  fear  creep  over  me.  Tho 
strong  arms  are  all  crossed  on  their  breasts,  and  the  hand  hold  various  sacred  and  regal 
symbols,  conspicuous  among  which  is  something  resembling  a  flail,  which  one  sees  often 
in  Egyptian  sculpture.  I  thought  of  a  marvelous  story  I  once  read,  in  which  a  genie, 
armed  with  a  brazen  flail,  stands  at  the  entrance  of  an  enchanted  castle,  crushing  with  the 
stroke  of  his  terrible  weapon  all  who  come  to  seek  the  treasure  within.  For  a  moment 
the  childish  faith  in  the  supernatural  was  as  strong  as  ever,  and  I  looked  at  the  gloomy 
entrance  beyond,  wishing  to  enter,  but  fbaring  the  stony  flails  of  the  terrible  Remesi  on 
either  hand.  Tho  faces  were  once  partially  colored,  and  the  black  eyeball,  still  remaining 
on  the  blank  eye  of  stone,  gives  them  an  expression  of  stupor,  of  death-in-life,  which  ac- 
counted to  me  for  the  nervous  shock  I  experienced  on  entering. 

"  There  is  nothing  in  Egypt  which  can  be  likened  to  the  great  temple  of  Abou-SimbeL 
Kamak  is  grander,  but  its  grandeur  is  human.  This  belongs  rather  to  the  superhuman 
fknciea  of  the  East — the  halls  of  the  Afritcs— or  to  tho  realm  of  the  dethroned  Titans,  of 
early  Greek  mythology.  This  impression  is  not  diminished,  on  passing  the  second  hall 
and  corridor,  and  entering  the  adytum,  or  sacred  chamber  of  the  temple.  There  the  gran- 
ite altar  yet  stands  in  the  center,  before  the  undestroyed  figures  of  the  gods,  who,  seated 
side  by  side,  calmly  await  the  oflerings  of  their  worshipers.  The  peculiar  individuality 
of  each  deity  is  strikingly  shown  in  these  large  statues,  and  their  attitude  is  much  less 
constrained  than  in  the  sitting  statues  in  tho  tombs  of  Thebes.  These  look  as  if  they  eouU 
rise,  if  they  would.  The  walls  are  covered  with  sculptures  of  them  and  of  the  contemplar 
deities,  in  the  grand,  bold  style  of  the  age  of  Remeses.  Some  visitors  had  lefl  a  supply 
of  dry  palm  branches  near  the  entrance,  and  of  these  I  made  torches,  which  blazed  and 
crackled  fiercely,  flaring  with  a  rich  red  light  on  the  sculptured  and  painted  walls.  Thoro 
was  sufBcient  to  enable  me  to  examine  all  the  smaller  chambers,  of  which  there  are  eight 
or  nine,  cut  laterally  into  the  rock,  without  any  attempt  at  symmetry  of  form,  or  regularity 
of  arrangement  Several  of  them  have  seats  mnning  around  three  sides,  exactly  like  tho 
divans  in  modem  Egyptian  houses.  They  were  probably  designed  for  the  apartments  of 
priests  or  servants  connected  with  the  temple."— Bay  aed  Tatlob's  "Journey  to  Central 
J/rica."  ,-    I        T  , 


IWS^OM 


I 


288 


LIFE    AND   TRAVELS   OF   BELZOKI. 


idea  of  thU  beautiful  and  invaluable  ])icce  of  anti({uity,  and  can  only  say, 
that  nothing  liaa  been  brought  into  Europe  from  Egypt  tiiat  can  bo  com- 
pared to  it.  The  cover  was  not  there ;  it  had  been  taken  out  and 
broken  into  several  pieces." 

Of  the  tomb  in  which  this  extraordinary  monument  was  fcund  a 
model  was  many  years  afterward  exhibited  in  London,  and  so  exceed- 
ingly well  executed  was  the  representation,  that  had  it  not  been  for  the 
crowds  of  visitors,  one  might  easily  have  imagined  one's  self  in  the  sc]>- 
ulchcr^  of  the  Egyptian  kings.  The  original  tomb  at  Thebes,  which 
was  first  opened  by  Belzoni,  bears  his  name  to  this  day.  It  had  been 
entered  and  plundered,  probably  during  the  Roman  occupation,  but 
again  closed  in  so  careful  a  manner,  that  it  had  remained  undiscovered 
for  nearly  two  thousand  years.  Bclzoni  wanted  but  one  thing  to  ren- 
der him  one  of  the  greatest  antiquarian  collectors  in  the  world :  this  one 
thing  was  money.  From  tlio  lack  of  this,  many  of  his  most  arduous 
and  well-planned  enterprises  camo  to  nothing. 

From  Thebes,  with  which  ho  was  now  as  familiar  as  he  was  with 
London,  he  some  time  after  this  proceeded  to  Cairo.  He  had  by  this 
time  acquired  quite  a  passion  for  excavations,  tomb-opening,  and  all  those 
other  pursuits  by  which  travelers  aim  at  diving  into  the  mysteries  of 
Egyptian  manners  and  arts ;  and  reflecting  upon  the  success  of  Captain 
Caviglia  in  descending  into  the  well  of  the  Great  Pyramid,  the  project 
of  attempting  the  opening  of  the  second  occurred  to  him.  There  is  not 
space  to  describe  the  difficulties  which  ho  encountered  and  overcame  in 
the  execution  of  this  design.  His  labors  were  incessant ;  his  expenses 
considerable ;  but,  at  length,  after  success  had  frequently  appeared  hope- 
less, the  entrance  to  the  interior  chambers  was  found.  "  After  thirty 
days'  exertion,"  says  he,  '^  I  had  the  pleasure  of  finding  myself  in  the 
way  to  the  central  chamber  of  one  of  the  two  great  pyramids  of  Egypt, 
which  have  long  been  the  admiration  of  beholders !" 

This  object  having  been  happily  effected,  Belzoni  again  set  out  for 
Thebes.  There  he  was  made  acquainted  with  the  history  of  a  pretended 
discovery,  which  became  a  motive  for  a  journey  to  the  coast  of  the  Red 
Sea.  The  history  of  this  expedition  is  given  in  a  very  few  words  by  a 
writer  in  the  Quarterly  Review.  "A  French  mineralogist,  of  the  name 
of  Cailliaud,  had  accompanied  some  Arab  soldiers  sent  by  the  pasha  of 
Egypt  in  search  of  emeralds  among  the  mountains  between  the  Nile  and 
the  Red  Sea.  On  their  return,  Calliaud  gave  out  that  in  this  expedition 
he  had  discovered  the  ancient  city  of  the  Ptolemies,  the  celebrated  Ber- 
nice,  the  great  emporium  of  Europe  and  the  Indies,  of  which  he  gave  a 
magnificent  description.  Mr.  Belzoni,  doubtful  of  the  accuracy  of  the 
story,  set  out  from  Edfoo,  with  one  of  the  former  party,  to  visit  the 
supposed  Bemice  ;  where,  instead  of  the  ruins  of  eight  hundred  houses 
and  three  temples,  as  stated  by  M.  Calliaud,  he  could  find  no  more  than 
eighty  seven  scattered  houses,  or  rather  cells ;  the  greater  number  of 
which  did  not  exceed  ten  feet  square,  built  with  unhewn  stones,  and 


3NI. 


JOURNEY   TO  THE    OASIS. 


289 


y,  iiiid  can  only  say, 
pt  tliat  can  bo  com- 
ccn  taken  out  and 

unent  was  fcund  a 
Ion,  and  so  excccd- 

it  not  been  for  the 
ne'8  self  in  the  sej)- 
b  at  Thebes,  which 

day.    It  had  been 

lan  occupation,  but 

ained  undiscovered 

t  one  thing  to  rcn- 

the  world :  this  one 

of  his  most  arduous 

liliar  as  he  was  with 
ro.  He  had  by  this 
>pening,  and  all  those 
ito  the  mysteries  of 
le  success  of  Captain 
Pyramid,  the  project 
lo  him.  There  is  not 
red  and  overcame  in 
cessant ;  hia  expenses 
lently  appeared  hope- 
jund.  "After  thirty 
Ending  myself  in  the 
it  pyramids  of  Egypt, 
!" 

3ni  again  set  out  for 
listory  of  a  pretended 
>  the  coast  of  the  Red 
i  very  few  words  by  a 
eralogist,  of  the  name 
)  sent  by  the  pasha  of 
between  the  Nile  and 
:hat  in  this  expedition 
!S,  the  celebrated  Ber- 
;s,  of  which  he  gave  a 
r  the  accuracy  of  the 
ler  party,  to  visit  the 
eight  hundred  houses 
uld  find  no  more  than 
le  greater  number  of 
1  unhewn  stones,  and 


without  cement ;  and  the  only  appearance  of  a  temple  was  a  niche  in  a 
rock,  without  inscription  or  sculpture  of  any  kind ;  there  was  no  land 
for  cultivation,  nor  any  water  within  twenty-four  miles ;  no  communica- 
tion with  the  sea  but  by  a  rough  road  over  the  mountains,  of  twenty- 
four  miles;  and  the  shore  was  so  covered  with  projecting  rocks  for 
twenty  or  thirty  miles  on  each  side,  that  there  was  no  security  even  for 
the  smallest  boats,  much  less  for  ships  trading  to  India.  These,  there- 
fore, he  was  quite  ccrt.ain,  could  not  be  the  remains  of  Bemicc. 

As,  however,  the  site  of  this  celebrated  city  had  been  fully  described 
by  the  ancient  writers,  Mr.  Belzoni  determined  to  prosecute  his  research- 
es ;  and  at  the  end  of  twenty  days  he  discovered,  close  to  the  shore,  the 
extensive  ruins  of  an  ancient  city  near  the  Cape  Lepto  Extrema,  the  Ras 
el  Anf  (Cape  Nose)  of  the  present  day ;  the  projection  of  which  forms 
an  ample  bay  (now  named  Foul  Bay),  having  at  the  bottom  an  excel- 
lent harbor  for  vessels  of  small  burden.  These  ruins,  which  are  beyond 
dispute  those  of  the  celebrated  emporium  founded  by  Ptolemy  Phila- 
delphus,  were  four  days'  journey  from  the  rude  cells  of  the  quarrymcn 
or  miners,  which  Mr.  Cailliaud  is  stated  to  have  so  strangely  mistaken 
for  the  magnificent  vestiges  of  the  ancient  Bernice.  Several  wells  of 
bitter  water  were  found  among  the  ruins ;  and  between  them  and  the 
mountains  was  an  extensive  plain  fit  for  cultivation.  The  remains  of 
more  than  three  thousand  houses  were  counted,  about  the  center  of 
which  were  those  of  a  temple  with  sculptured  figures  and  hieroglyph- 
ics." 

Having  made  this  discovery,  he  again  returned  to  the  valley  of  the 
Nile,  where  he  was  for  some  time  occupied  in  the  removal  of  various 
antiquities.  He  then  descended  to  the  sea-coast,  and  on  the  20th  of 
April,  1810,  set  out  from  Rosetta,  on  an  excursion  to  the  district  of 
Fayoum,  and  the  Oasis  of  Jupiter  Ammon.  After  roammg  about  the 
shores  of  Lake  Mceris  for  some  time,  for  he  had  no  leisure  for  making 
researches,  be  visited  the  ruins  of  Arcondc,  consisting  of  a  few  granite 
columns,  and  fragments,  and  mounds  of  burned  bricks.  He  then  pre- 
pared to  cross  the  desert  to  the  Oasis,  which  was  an  affair  of  some  diffi- 
culty. Nevertheless,  he  at  length  succeeded  in  completing  his  prepara- 
tions, and  commenced  his  journey,  accompanied  by  a  Bedouin  guide, 
and  three  or  four  other  persons.  Even  here,  in  the  desert,  ruins  of 
Egyptian  edifices,  beautifully  sculptured  with  hieroglyphics,  were  found. 
The  scene  at  first  lay  among  low  rocks,  sandy  hills,  and  barren  valleys, 
which  were  gradually  exchanged  for  a  plain  of  sand,  as  level  as  the  sea, 
and  thickly  strewed  with  brown  and  black  pebbles.  They  continued 
during  five  days  their  journey  over  this  dreary  waste,  at  the  end  of 
which  time  they  perceived  the  rocks  of  the  Oasis,  and  beheld  two  crows 
coming,  as  it  were,  to  meet  them.  In  the  afternoon  they  entered  the 
valley,  which  is  surrounded  by  high  rocks,  and  forms  in  the  midst  a 
spacious  plain,  about  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  long,  and  about  six  in 
breadth.    "  There  is  only  a  very  small  portion  of  the  valley  cultivated 


t 


mmum 


■^r 


240 


LIFB    AND   TRAVELS    OF    BELZONI. 


on  the  op[)osito  side  to  that  which  wo  reached,  and  it  can  only  bo  di»- 
tinguifilicd  by  the  woods  of  |)ahn-trocs  which  cover  it.  The  rest  of  the 
valley  is  wholly  covered  with  tracts  of  sand,  "but  it  is  evident  it  has  once 
been  cultivated  everywhere.  Many  tracts  of  land  are  of  a  clayey  sub- 
stance, which  could  be  brought  into  use  even  now.  There  arc  several 
small  hills  scattered  about,  some  with  a  natural  spring  at  the  top,  and 
covered  with  rushes  and  small  plants.  We  advanced  toward  a  forost 
of  date-trees,  and  before  evening  we  reached  within  a  mile  of  a  village 
named  Zaboo,  all  of  us  exceedingly  thirsty :  here  we  observed  some 
cultivation,  several  beds  of  rice  and  home  sunt-trees,  etc.  Before  the 
camels  arrived,  they  scented  the  water  at  a  distance ;  and  as  they  had 
not  drank  since  they  left  Rejan,  they  set  off  at  full  gallop,  and  did  not 
stop  till  they  reached  a  rivulet,  which  was  quite  sweet,  although  the  soil 
was  almost  impregnated  with  salt.  I  observed  hero  a  groat  many  wild 
birds,  particularly  wild  ducks,  in  greater  abundance  than  any  other." 

The  first  man  who  perceived  them  after  their  entrance  into  the  val- 
ley evinced  a  disposition  to  shoot  Belzoni ;  but,  upon  the  explanation  of 
the  Bedouin  guide,  consented  to  conduct  them  to  the  village.  "  We 
advanced,"  says  the  traveler,  "  and  entered  a  lane ;  and  as  we  penetrated 
further,  we  entered  a  most  beautiful  place,  full  of  dates,  intermixed  with 
other  trees,  some  In  blossom  and  others  in  fruit ;  there  were  apricots, 
figs,  almonds,  plums,  and  some  grapes.  The  apricots  were  in  greater 
abundance  than  the  rest,  and  the  figs  were  very  fine.  The  soil  was 
covered  with  verdure  of  grass  and  rice,  and  the  whole  formed  a  most 
pleasing  recess,  particularly  after  the  barren  scenes  of  the  desert." 

His  reception  at  this  village  was  equivocal:  there  being  several 
shekhs,  each  of  whom  made  pretensions  to  authority.  Some  were  dis- 
posed to  treat  him  kindly,  while  others,  more  morose,  kept  at  a  dis- 
tance ;  but  a  few  cups  of  coffee,  judiciously  distributed,  and  followed  by  a 
sheep  boiled  in  rice,  reconciled  the  whole ;  although  they  next  morning, 
when  they  were  again  hungry,  relapsed  into  their  former  rude  manners. 
Like  all  other  ignorant  people,  they  supposed  that  he  must  necessarily 
be  in  search  of  treasure,  and  for  some  time  refused  to  conduct  him  to 
the  ruins  of  which  he  was  in  search;  but  upon  being  assured  that 
whatever  treasures  might  be  discovered  should  fall  to  their  share,  while 
•ill  he  stipulated  for  were  a  few  stones,  they  consented  to  accompany 
him.  The  ruins,  which  he  supposed  to  be  those  of  the  temple  of 
Jupiter  Ammon,  now  ser^'ed,  he  found,  as  a  basement  for  nearly  a 
whole  village,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  he  discovered,  as  he  thought,  the 
famous  "  Fountain  of  the  Sun,"  which  is  warm  at  midnight  and  cold  at 
noon.*    This  is  a  well  of  sixty  feet  deep  by  eight  square,  which,  over- 

*  Id  both  these  suppositions,  Belzoni  was  mistaken.  The  Oasis  which  he  visited  nraj 
not  that  of  Jupiter  Ammou,  now  known  under  the  name  of  Siwah,  but  was  in  realitv 
the  Oasis  Parva,  or  Little  Oasis,  called  by  the  Arabs  the  Wah  EUBahryeh  (Northern 
Oasis).  The  Temple  of  Jupiter  Ammon,  and  the  Fountain  of  the  Sun,  are  to  be  found 
in  the  Oasis  Siwah,  which  ia  seven  or  eight  days  journey  oortti-westof  the  latter. 


aiaitm 


ONI. 

it  can  only  bo  dig- 
it.   The  rest  of  tho 
3  evident  it  has  onco 
arc  of  a  clayey  sub- 
There  arc  several 
ring  at  the  top,  and 
iced  toward  a  forest 
n  a  mile  of  a  village 
I  we  observed  some 
ees,  etc.     Before  tho 
ice ;  and  as  they  had 
I  gallop,  and  did  not 
eet,  although  tho  soil 
re  a  great  many  wild 
e  than  any  other." 
entrance  into  the  val- 
on  the  explanation  of 
to  tho  village.    "We 
;  and  as  w«  penetrated 
iates,  intermixed  with 
;  there  were  apricots, 
icots  were  in  greater 
•y  fine.    The  soil  was 
whole  formed  a  most    , 
OS  of  the  desert."  '• 

;   there   being  several 
ority.     Some  were  dis- 
morose,  kept  at  a  dis- 
uted,  and  followed  by  a 
igh  they  next  morning, 
r  former  rude  manners, 
at  ho  must  necessarily 
sod  to  conduct  him  to 
»on   being  assured  that 
Pall  to  their  share,  while 
)n8ented  to  accompany 
hose  of  the  temple  of 
basement  for  nearly  a 
ered,  as  he  thought,  the 
at  nudnight  and  cold  at 
Tht  square,  which,  over- 

de  Oasis  which  ho  visited  waa 
a  of  Siwah,  but  was  in  reality 
s  Wdh  ElrBahryeh  (Northern 
1  of  the  Sun,  are  to  be  found 
orth-west  of  the  latter. 


HIS     DEATH, 


241 


flowing  in  a  considerable  rivulet,  sorvcs  to  irrigate  some  cultivated 
lands.  All  around  it  is  a  grove  of  palm  an.l  other  treos.  Tho  toinper- 
ature  of  the  water,  however,  continues  at  all  times  the  same  ;  all  its  aj)- 
parent  changes  being  accounted  for  by  the  greater  or  less  digreo  of  heat 

in  the  atmosphere. 

From  this  excursion  Iklnoni  returned  to  Egypt,  from  whence  he  em- 
barked for  Europe  about  the  middle  of  September,  1810.  AOer  an 
absence  of  twenty  years  ho  visited  his  family  in  Italy,  whence  he  de- 
parted for  England,  where  he  completed  and  published  his  travels.  A 
few  years  afterward  this  enterprising  and  ablo  traveler  fell  in  an  attempt 
to  penetrate  into  tho  interior  of  Africa. 

16 


I 


«■ 


^/■^K 


■Hm^'' 


•■'■f"-^*'^-^^^-tr^*'-' 


-..-—■ „.«.|_^  ,fym7."r^'^nit,.r.^'«^ 


C  A  ILLI  A  U  D'S        . 

JOURNEY    TO    THE     LIBYAN     OASES, 
ETHIOPIA,    AND    SENNAAR, 


Frederic  Cailliaud,  the  first  modem  traveler  who  made  a  com- 
plete exploration  of  the  rums  of  Ethiopia,  was  a  native  of  Nantes.  His 
taste  for  archseology  and  for  the  natural  sciences  led  him  to  travel,  and 
on  ^^siting  Egypt  he  found  so  nmch  to  interest  and  fascinate  him,  that 
he  remained  four  years.  Early  in  1816  he  ascended  the  Nile  as  far  as 
Wady  Haifa,  at  the  second  cataract,  following  in  the  steps  of  Burck- 
hardt,  and  preceding  Belzoni  by  a  few  months.  He  also  visited  the 
Great  Oasis  m  the  Libyan  Desert,  west  of  Thebes,  and  crossed  from 
the  Nile  to  the  Red  Sea,  where  he  discovered  ruins  which  he  sup- 
posed to  be  those  of  Berenice— a  mistake  afterward  corrected  by 

Belzoni.  . 

Returaing  to  France  in  February,  1819,  after  an  absence  of  mne 
years,  Cailliaud  immediately  applied  to  the  French  government,  to  bo 
again  dispatched  to  Egypt  for  the  purpose  of  makmg  more  extensive 
explorations.  His  application  was  warmly  seconded  by  the  French 
Institute,  and  in  two  months  he  received  the  appointment,  and  his 
instructions  from  the  Minister  of  the  Interior.  After  pasmng  a  month 
with  his  parents  at  Nantes,  he  set  out  for  Mareeilles,  accompanied  by 
M.  Lotorzec,  a  cadet  of  the  French  navy,  who  desired  to  accompany 
him.  Embarking  on  the  10th  of  September,  he  landed  at  Alexandria 
on  the  1st  of  October,  after  a  very  stormy  passage.  His  plan  was, 
first  to  penetrate  to  the  Oasis  of  Siwah,  or  Jupiter  Ammon,  in  the  Lib- 
yan Desert,  a  spot  which  few  travelers  had  ever  reached,  and  which 
none  had  ever  thoroughly  explored.  The  failure  of  a  recent  attempt 
did  not  discourage  him :  he  proceeded  to  Cairo,  and  after  visiting  some 
new  mummv  pits  which  had  been  opened  at  Sakkara,  made  his  prepara- 
tions and  se't  out  on  the  1st  of  November,  accompanied  by  Letorzec, 
and  lamail,  a  French  Mameluke.  , 

Ascending  the  Nile  to  Bcnisouef  Cailliaud  proceeded  to  the  district 


^10>■ 


IMWwaMMWMtMHI 


■MMi^ 


246  OAILLIAUD-S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 

of  the  Fyoom,  lying  a  day'8  journey  to  the  west,  and  was  bo  fortunate 
as  to  find  the  governor,  who  L\  just  returned  from  a  successfd  foray 
a  nonrsome  rfbeUious  desert  tribes.  The  latter  sent  for  an  Arab  chief 
n3  Koroom,  and  an  inhabitant  of  Siwah,  named  YousseJ  who  hap- 
namta  jvorou    ,  requested  them  to  conduct  Cailhaud  tu 

E  Oa^L  Ther-/e  S^^^  obje'ctions  to  the  plan,  but  finally  yielded 
o'condUion  that  the  travelers  would  neither  wnte  »or  d;-^  d^^ 
themselves  as  Egyptiane,  and  assume  the  character  of  natives  ot  ^Jiro 
irgtX  ofThe  Fyoom  gave  CaiUiaud  a  letter  to  the  dnefe  of 
S  vah  rXch  he  declared  that  the  traveler  was  sent  by  Mohammed 
M  a^i  shou'd  be  treated  with  the  same  respect  which  they  owed  to 
^'p"ha     '?he  camels  were  brought,  and  after  halting  two  days  at  he 

this  dust  thev  placed  in  a  taJcia,  or  small  Arab  cap,  which  they  neia  m 
Ihe  hafd     I  Ctold  that  this  was  done  to  preserve  us  from  accidents ; 

tioDofour.l,BenM,».d«ao«l..ethetm«ofo.urret«n.' 

At  s  Milage  called  El  Gharal^  on  the  border,  of  the  tort,  they 
,,erViotoId  by  a  caravan  of  inhabitants  of  the  Fyoom,  ».th  one  ta- 
dred  Ek  Wd  for  Siwah.  Some  of  the  native  mercbanta  r^d 
?o  rS^ugh  the  fear  of  being  compromi.ed  by  the  presence  of  M- 
iLdPs  Zty  The  travelcKwere  obUged  to  relinquiA  the  idea  of  taking 

;:r::?cSnL?ea.and  .n«^ot  ^;«^:;^>xt':x:--:^. 

S  r  «rZ.:«r-  at  I"lSr  lU^oroom  d«cended 
S-rhoSand  plunged  mto  the  center  a  «o„t  p^  of  y,^,  ** 
,.  moved  aronnd  hi  t,e  cUy  opemng  a  pa»^e  ^r^the  water,  *^ 

hy  twi.tmg  1        "•         ^       y^  shoulders  to  retam  torn  there, 
nrm-pits.    f""*''  "*?  "J'^  h„ia  ,i,  jieU,  was  thrown  out  of  the 

not  come." 


OPIA. 


APPROACH   TO   SIWAH. 


247 


,e 


kd  was  so  fortunate 
a  successful  foray 
for  an  Arab  chief 

Yousse^  who  hap- 

mduct  Ciulliaud  to 

but  finally  yielded, 
nor  draw,  clothe 
of  natives  of  Cairo. 
;er  to  the  chiefe  of 
lent  by  Mohammed 
vhich  they  owed  to 
ing  two  days  at  the 
»rch  into  the  desert. 
}  Cailliaud,  "  accom- 
Benedictions,  for  the 
lust  from  the  places 
idleft  their  imprint; 

which  they  held  in 
e  us  from  accidents ; 
be  steps  of  each  man 
they  would  make  a 

in  the  manner  of  an 
,y  to  notice  the  dura- 
stum." 

i  of  the  desert,  they 
[room,  with  one  hun- 
ve  merchants  refused 
the  presence  of  Csdl- 
ish  the  idea  of  taking 

observation,  even  by 
>  exceedingly  circum- 
» remark  which  might 
8  they  arrived  at  a 
liich,  in  a  little  valley, 
ng  is  a  funnel-shaped 
[h  Koroom  descended 
piece  of  wood,  which 

for  the  water,  which 
his  legs  in  the  orifice, 
his  body  down  to  the 
s  to  retain  him  there, 
iras  thrown  out  of  the 
bundant.  The  Arabs 
sion,  which  appears  to 
g  so,  the  water  would 


The  caravan  continued  its  march  over  plains  of  sand,  alternating 
with  hard  tracts  covered  with  agates,  and  occasionally  the  remains  of 
petrified  forests,  among  which  Cailliaud  found  the  trunk  of  a  sycamore 
eleven  feet  in  circumference  and  fifteen  feet  in  length.  As  they  ap- 
proached Siwah  the  earth  became  covered  with  a  crystalization  of  salt, 
forming  vast  incrusted  plains.  Finally,  on  the  fifteenth  day,  they  saw 
in  the  distance  a  valley  fertile  in  palms  and  acacias,  in  the  midst  of  which 
was  a  village  tributary  to  Siwah,  and  distant  from  it  about  twenty 
leagues.  The  village,  called  EI-Garah,  was  built  on  the  summit  of  a 
steep  rock,  and  appeared  to  consist  partly  of  the  remiuns  of  ancient 
edifices.  A  curious  superstition  prevails  in  this  place.  A  former  shekh 
predicted  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  village — men,  women,  and  children 
— would  never  exceed  forty.  The  people  declared  that  the  number  had 
sometimes  a  liMle  exceeded  that  limit,  but  that  the  balance  was  always 
speedily  restored  by  the  death  of  the  surplus  population.  When  a  child 
13  bom,  they  expect  a  death  among  the  olde^  inhabitants,  to  make  room 
for  it.  Ciulliaud  was  not  allowed  to  enter  the  village  on  the  first  day, 
and  on  climbing  the  rock  the  next  moming,  the  people  cried  "  Chris- 
tian !" — whence  he  knew  that  some  of  the  Arabs  of  the  caravan  had  be- 
trayed his  true  character.  Youssef  of  Siwah  finally  declared  that  the 
traveler  would  instantly  write  to  Mohammed  All,  who  was  his  friend,  if 
they  did  not  admit  him,  whereupon  they  allowed  him  to  enter,  and 
presented  him  with  some  fine  dates. 

"  On  the  night  of  December  8,"  says  Cailliaud,  "  Shekh  Koroom  and 
Youssef  came  into  my  tent,  and  said  to  me  with  a  very  mysterious  air, 
that  now  was  the  moment  to  make  use  of  my  sorcery  in  order  to  mod- 
erate the  anger  of  the  people  of  Siwah.  •  I  have  had  several  occasions,' 
said  Koroom, '  of  knowing  how  experienced  are  the  Christians  in  this 
art.  Signor  Belzoni,  whom  I  conducted  to  the  Little  Oasis,  finding 
himself  annoyed  by  the  inhabitants  and  by  a  caravan  of  Siwah  which  op- 
posed his  researches,  suddenly  began  to  write  mysterious  notes ;  and 
immediately  those  who  designed  to  injure  him,  humiliated  themselves 
before  him  and  kissed  his  hands,  which  proved  his  great  power !'  I  was 
at  first  tempted  to  convince  him  of  his  error,  but  I  reflected  that  in  or- 
der to  encourage  him  to  serve  me,  I  ought,  on  the  contrary,  to  assure 
him  that  I  was  as  skillful  as  Belzoni,  and  he  might  depend  on  the  success 
of  my  magical  arts."  On  the  evening  of  the  9th,  they  discovered  in  the 
west  the  palm-groves  of  Siwah,  and  encamped  near  an  old  well.  Koroom 
and  Youssef  set  out  by  night  to  announce  their  approach  to  the  shekhs, 
and  Ciulliaud  was  so  excited  with  anxiety  and  expectation,  that  he  found 
it  impossible  to  sleep. 

"  After  marching  three  hours,  the  next  morning,  we  reached  the  first 
grove  of  date-palms,  and  the  Arabs  fired  a  volley  to  signalize  our  ap- 
proach. Youssef  came  to  me,  crying  out  with  joy  that  we  had  obtained 
permission  to  enter  the  oasis.  We  proceeded  onward  by  paths  shaded 
by  numerous  palm-groves  ;  olive,  pomegranate,  peach,  apricot,  and  fig- 


248  CAILLIAUD'8    JOURNEY   TO    ETHIOPIA. 

,    ,     ,     J        «     Tliofrr^shnessoftho  verdure  19  preserved 
trees  enriched  the  landscape     ^he  freshness  oit^  i^^    ^^^ 

by  tanks  and  abundant  springs;  ^^^^^^  °^^^J,„f  having  been  able 
to  penetrate  into  this  district,  sepa  ^^^^.^^  ^^  ^^ 

leagues  of  sand,  ^^^^/^^^  l^^,  ^^h^iL*!^^^^^  of  Jnpiter  Am- 

almost  «nkno^^;n,  and  perhaps  to  rtie^^^^^^^^  P^^^  ^^  ^^^^  ^^^^ 

mon.    Youssefpresentedmetothieccliieis,  ^^^^ 

,„anner  of  the  country.    T^ey  made  us  encamp  in  ^^^^^  ^^^ 

windows  ot  the  nouses  weiv.  excitement 

The  people  came  in  c^^^^^^^^^^^ 

proaching  us,  under  penalty  ^^  »; J^^^J^^^^jtl^  S 

^of  dates.    Amudimores^v^efi^^^^^^^^^ 

TuS'o^tr  or  ^^^  *^-^^^«  T  >'  t^  d  ^  '^^  ^'^ '""  '^' 

iired  suddenly,  and  we  remained  -tj-ly  iso^U^d.  ^^  ^^^ 

Soon  aftenvard  Cailliaud  Avas  called  ^^^  «;  S'^^^^    He  repUed  '' 

Hhekhs  and  people,  and  asked  ^JJ^^^'^^^  \lZl^  "he  firman,  I 

that  he  was  sent  by  Mohammed  Ah.    T^i«)  tjien  aem  ^^  j 

.  bich  he  had  not  been  able  to  P--^^' ^«.  ^^^^^^^^  ploso  of  visiting  i 

bia ;  but  he  had  an  f  fi'-"^'^'i.&'^'?V«resled     The  only  shekh  who  ; 

Souakin,  on  the  Red  Sea  which  he  P'-^^f^'    ;?,\^^  ^i^iculed  the  ! 

could  read,  understood  "Souakm"  to  mean     W^^^^^                      ^^^^  , 

building,  apparently  of  the  Lower  EmP«-e,  a«o^^^^^^^^  ^^  ^,^,^    , 

and  a  beautiful  little  Roman  temple,  of  the  Done  order  m     g^^^^  ^^    , 

of  preservation.    Near  t^«  ^f  ^'^'^^/^^^  P^^^^L^^^^     a  former 

^^tS  now  solicited  the  <^  }<>  f^:^^  ^^^^JZ  t 
Om  Beydah,  the  most  important  o^/V^^^J^XT^leaties  and 
those  of  the  temple  of  Jupiter  Ammon     He  W  ^^^^^  ^^^^^ 

presents,  but  they  reftised,  givmg  as  a  '"^^^o"  ^^^^^^^^ 
would  cause  the  great  fountain  to  dry  up.    They^ta^edtha  . 

after  the  visit  of  Browne  and  Ho™«"^""  *^^.^,"^,3  ^kd  attributed 
became  dry.  The  inhabitants  7-/™  f^^t  S  g-ed  upon  it. 
the  circumstance  to  the  fac  «^  *^f  .^^""  X^Beryk,  ciaud 
The  next  day,  on  ascendmg  the  mountam  ot  Urai  adou  d    y  , 


OPIA. 

■rdure  is  preserved 

directions.    These 

'having  been  able 

orld  by  a  hundred 

me  nearer  to  a  spot 

)le  of  Jupiter  Am- 

uted  me  after  the 

a  court  under  the 

)osed  for  sale.    The 

curious  to  see  us. 

was  an  excitement 

shekhs  were  obliged 

excepted,  from  ap- 

id  and  sixty  baskets 

those  who  addressed 

e  an  opportunity  of 

le,  for  the  latter  re- 

jrand  council  of  the 
came.    He  replied 
lemanded  the  firman, 
la  was  absent  in  Nu- 
iie  purpose  of  visiting 
The  only  shekh  who 
ih,"  and  ridiculed  the 
correctly.    The  final 
d  be  permitted  to  see 
lie  was  furnished  with 
of  the  Dead,  a  small 
3  of  the  ancient  inhab- 
md  the  remwns  of  a 
her  hill  of  catacombs, 
order,  in  a  good  state 
were  the  remains  of 
8,  indicating  a  former 
heled  er-Iioom,  or  the 

n  to  visit  the  ruins  of 
ho  conjectured  to  be 
d  both  entreaties  and 
hat  his  presence  there 
itated  that  immediately 
1  Beydah,  the  fountain 
terror,  and  attributed 
having  gazed  upon  it. 
vAbou-Beryk,  Cailliaud 


THE    OASIS    AND    ITS    INHABITANTS. 


249 


overlooked  all  the  province  of  Siwali,  and,  by  the  aid  of  a  good  tele- 
scope, saw  the  ruins  of  Om  Beydah  rising  above  the  tufted  palms. 
They  appeared  to  him  of  gigantic  size,  and  the  desire  to  visit  them  be- 
came stronger  than  ever.  "  The  sun  Avas  on  the  horizon  ;  my  guides  had 
descended.  I  followed  them,  but  at  a  distance,  feeling  myself  unable  to 
converse  Avith  them.  I  pondered  in  my  mind  what  stratagem  I  could 
de\-ise  in  order  to  visit  the  temple.  I  let  them  all  pass  on — guides, 
Arabs,  interpreter — and  remained  in  the  rear.  Reflecting  that  I  was  but 
a  quarter  of  a  league  from  the  spot,  I  determined  to  make  an  attempt 
to  reach  it.  Enveloping  myself  in  my  bornous,  I  approached  the  palm- 
grove,  but  seeing  that  I  was  watched  by  the  spies,  I  felt  the  impossibility 
of  accomplishing  my  object,  and  returned." 

During  his  short  stay  at  the  oasis,  Cailliaud  collected  some  informa- 
tion regarding  the  place  and  people.  The  principal  trade  is  in  dates, 
which  are  produced  in  great  numbers,  and  of  excellent  quality.  The 
government  consists  of  twelve  shekhs,  six  of  whom  are  elected  for  life, 
and  the  remaining  six  from  year  to  year.  Their  deliberations  are  public, 
and  the  people  all  take  part  in  them.  Theft  and  other  minor  offenses 
are  punished  by  a  fine  of  dates ;  those  who  are  not  able  to  pay,  are  con- 
ducted out  of  the  town,  placed  upon  the  ground  face  do^vnward,  and 
bastinadoed  on  the  naked  loins.  If  a  murderer  is  taken,  he  is  given  into 
the  hands  of  the  relatives  of  his  victim,  to  whom  he  belongs.  Accord- 
ing to  their  caprice  they  may  kill  him,  torture  him,  or  set  him  free.  The 
amount  received  in  fines  is  appropriated  to  keeping  the  mosques  in  re- 
pair, to  supporting  the  saints,  or  holy  men,  and  to  assisting  strangers 
Avho  have  been  piUaged  in  the  desert.  As  soon  as  the  boys  have  at- 
tained the  age  of  puberty,  they  are  obliged  to  leave  the  town  and  live  in 
a  separate  village  outside  of  the  walls.  Each  widower  is  also  obliged  to 
leave  his  house  and  join  the  young  bachelors ;  if  he  marries  again,  he  is 
allowed  to  return  home.  They  are  permitted  to  enter  the  town  during 
the  day,  to  see  their  relatives  and  friends,  but  they  must  retire  before 
sunset.  In  spite  of  their  mistrust,  obtinacy  and  superstition,  the  inhab- 
itants of  Siwah  are  very  hospitable.  The  poor,  or  strangers,  may  go  to 
the  market  of  dates  and  eat  to  satiety ;  each  one  leaves  his  goods  ex- 
posed in  public  with  the  perfect  assurance  that  no  one  will  touch  them. 

At  last,  by  means  of  presents  judiciously  distributed  by  the  mame- 
luke  Ismail,  Shekh  Ali  was  induced  to  second  Cailliaud's  application  to 
visit  Om  Beydah.  But  the  other  shekhs  and  the  people  still  refused, 
until,  on  the  evening  of  the  21st,  the  traveler  offered  to  bo  conducted  to 
the  temple  with  his  eyes  bandaged,  seeing  neither  the  country  nor  the 
great  fountain.  On  the  same  day  news  had  been  received  of  the  ap- 
proach of  a  large  caravan  coming  from  Bcngazi,  in  Barca — a  circum- 
stance which  would  oblige  Shekh  Korooro  to  leave  with  his  camels,  as 
there  was  not  pasturage  for  all  in  the  oasis.  In  the  evening,  Shekh  Ali 
came  with  the  permission  to  visit  Om  Beydah,  but  counseled  the  trav- 
eler to  act  with  prudence,  and  to  depart  with  Koroom  immediately  af- 


MiMMir 


250 


CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 


tcrward.  These  were  also  his  intentions,  and  the  next  morning,  at  day- 
light, accompanied  by  M.  Lctorzcc,  Ismail,  and  four  of  the  sbckhs  of  Si- 
wah,  mounted  on  asses,  he  set  out.  Threading  the  woods  of  date-palms, 
watered  by  Uttle  brooks,  for  half  an  hour,  they  emerged  from  the  bhado 
at  the  foot  of  the  temple.  "  The  ruin,  although  not  extensive,  appeared 
to  me  imposuig  from  its  grand  masses,  constructed  in  the  Egyptian  style. 
The  remembrance  of  the  voyage  of  Alexander  caused  me  to  approach  it 
with  a  sort  of  religious  respect.  My  attention  was  directed  to  the  walls 
of  the  temple ;  I  looked  for  some  vestiges  of  the  presence  of  the  Mace- 
donian hero ;  but  I  found  no  inscription,  no  word  in  his  language.  All 
was  mute ;  his  name  even  was  unknown  to  the  inhabitants,  and  buried 
in  profound  obUvion." 

llie  temple  consisted  of  a  mass  of  ruins  about  three  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  in  length  by  three  hundred  in  breadth.  The  walls  were  not 
more  than  eighteen  feet  high,  and  the  roof,  a  portion  of  which  remained, 
was  composed  of  blocks  twenty-six  feet  long.  After  having  measured 
and  inspected  these  ruins,  Ciulliaud  began  to  make  a  sketch  of  them. 
The  people  of  Siwah,  who  accompanied  him,  approached  in  order  to  dis- 
cover what  he  was  doing ;  but  as  they  saw  he  drew  nothing  but  stones, 
omitting  the  fountains  and  date-trees,  they  allowed  him  to  proceed. 
During  this  operation,  Ismail  amused  them  by  playing  with  a  fragment 
of  India-rubber ;  they  could  not  comprehend  how  so  small  a  body  could 
prolong  itself  to  such  an  extent,  nor  how  it  could  efface  the  writing  on 
paper.  The  guides  now  urged  the  traveler  to  depart,  and  on  reaching 
the  town,  he  learned  that  the  caravan  from  Barca  had  arrived.  Shekh 
Koroom  was  very  anxious  to  set  out,  and  the  order  was  accordingly 
given  to  load  the  camels.  They  left  in  the  afteitioon  for  the  Little  Oasis, 
several  days'  journey  to  the  south,  whither  the  shekh  had  promised  to 
conduct  them ;  but  this  intention  was  kept  secret  from  the  rest  of  the 
caravan.  During  the  next  day's  march,  they  were  surprised  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  another  caravan,  coming  toward  them.  The  camels  were 
arranged  in  order  of  battle,  powder  distributed,  guns  loaded,  and  every 
preparation  made  to  repel  an  attack,  but  the  strangers  fortunately 
proved  to  be  friends.  Shekh  Koroom,  with  two  Arabs,  and  Cailliaud 
and  his  party  here  left  the  caravan,  in  spite  of  the  remonstrances  of  the 
other  Arabs,  and  set  out  for  the  Little  Oasis.  Their  route  led  them 
through  tracks  of  salt  desert,  alternating  with  mountains  of  naked  rock 
and  sand.  On  the  27th,  they  came  upon  a  salt  lake,  the  existence  of 
which  had  been  hitherto  unknown.  The  Arabs  called  it  Elbahreyn  (the 
Two  Lakes) ;  it  was  nearly  two  leagues  in  length  from  east  to  west,  by 
half  a  league  in  breadth,  bordered  on  the  north  by  a  long,  rocky  mount- 
ain, and  on  the  south  by  a  great  bank  of  sand,  behind  which  was  a  grove 
of  date  and  doum-palms. 

"On  the  Ist  of  January,  1820,  we  started  at  half-past  nine,  following 
the  valley  toward  the  East.  The  grass,  the  asclepias,  the  tamarisks, 
and  some  little  marshes  which  wo  passed,  announced  to  us  the  proximity 


fgggamaitittlitm 


wim 


[OPIA. 


RESIDENCE    IN    THE    LITTLE    OASIS. 


251 


[t  morning,  at  day- 
>t'  the  Hbckbs  of  Si- 
roods  of  date-palms, 
[ged  from  tlic  hhado 
Icxtensivc,  appeared 
the  Egyptian  style. 
|d  me  to  approach  it 
lirected  to  the  walls 
lesence  of  the  Mace- 
his  language.     All 
ibitants,  and  buried 

three  hundred  and 

The  walls  were  not 

n  of  which  remained, 

ter  having  measured 

e  a  sketch  of  them. 

iched  in  order  to  dis- 

r  nothing  but  stones, 

ircd  him  to  proceed. 

ying  with  a  fragment 

io  small  a  body  could 

efface  the  writing  on 

part,  and  on  reaching 

had  arrived.    Shekh 

rder  was  accordingly 

}n  for  the  Little  Oasis, 

tckh  had  promised  to 

from  the  reat  of  the 

e  surprised  by  the  ap- 

m.    The  camels  were 

uns  loaded,  and  every 

strangers  fortunately 

Arabs,  and  Cailliaud 

remonstrances  of  the 

rheir  route  led  them 

untains  of  naked  rock 

lake,  the  existence  of 

led  it  Elrbahreyn  (the 

from  east  to  west,  by 

r  a  long,  rocky  mount- 

ind  which  was  a  grove 

df-past  nine,  following 
ilepias,  the  tamarisks, 
3d  to  us  the  proximity 


of  the  oasis.  In  a  short  time  we  perceived  the  date-groves.  With  what 
pleasure  we  discovered  this  rich  verdure,  in  the  midst  of  the  sands  of  the 
desert,  after  having  undergone  so  many  fatigues,  so  much  care  and  pri- 
vation! The  vegetation  appeared  to  me  still  more  beautiful  when  I 
thought  of  the  signs  of  winter  then  prevailing  in  Europe.  At  noon,  Ave 
arrived  at  El-Kasr,  the  largest  village  of  the  oasis.  On  approaching  it, 
we  met  the  shekh,  who  came  to  offer  us  the  use  of  his  house,  whither  we 
repaired."  The  travelers  were  very  hospitably  entertained.  Having 
expressed  a  wish  to  visit  the  antiquities  of  the  place,  they  were  next  d.iy 
conducted  to  the  ruins  of  a  triumphal  arch,  of  Roman  time,  small,  but  of 
graceful  design.  Near  the  village  of  Mendysh  were  numerous  catacombs, 
and  the  remains  of  an  old  Coptic  village,  but  Cailliaud  failed  to  discover 
any  thing  of  special  interest.  There  was  also  a  warm  spring,  probably 
the  same  mistaken  by  Belzoni  for  the  Fountain  of  the  Sun,  as  the  latter 
supposed  this  oasis,  which  he  visited,  to  be  that  of  Jupiter  Ammon. 

On  the  10th,  a  small  caravan  arrived  from  Minyeh,  on  the  Nile,  and 
Cailliaud  took  the  opportunity  to  send  back  with  it  one  of  his  servants 
in  charge  of  all  his  minecessary  baggage,  and  the  minerals,  shells,  and 
curiosities  which  he  had  collected.  His  contract  with  Koroom  being  at 
an  end,  he  asked  the  shekh  of  the  oasis  to  procure  him  camels  for  his 
further  journey,  and  in  the  mean  time  employed  himself  in  making  a 
topographical  plan  of  the  oasis.  In  this  he  was  soon  embarrassed  by  the 
inhabitants,  some  of  whom  declared  that  he  was  putting  their  country 
upon  paper,  in  order  to  show  it  to  the  pasha,  and  thereby  increase  their 
tribute ;  while  others  imagined  it  to  be  a  work  of  magic,  which  would 
cause  their  springs  to  dry  up.  In  spite  of  the  firman  of  Mohammed 
Ali,  which  the  shekh  read  aloud,  publicly,  the  opposition  was  so  great 
that  the  travelers  were  obliged  to  make  their  observations  secretly,  but 
as  they  were  detained  several  weeks,  waiting  for  camels,  th^y  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  making  a  very  correct  map. 

On  the  2d  of  February,  however,  a  compldnt  was  made  before  the 
cadi,  and  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  village  assembled  around  Cail- 
liaud's  house.  The  travelers  were  formally  arraigned,  and  the  most 
profound  silence  ensued,  when  an  Arab  stepped  into  the  circle  to  de- 
nounce  them.  *'  I  have  seen  him,"  said  he,  pointing  to  Cailliaud,  "  stop 
at  a  fountain  and  plunge  therein  an  instrument  of  glass  and  of  silver. 
After  Laving  withdrawn  it,  he  immediately  began  to  write."  These 
magical  proceedings,  he  said,  were  made  to  alarm  the  inhabitants. 
There  was  then  a  general  demand  to  behold  the  .instrument  of  sorcery. 
The  thermometer  was  produced,  and  Cailliaud  endeavored,  but  in  vain, 
to  explain  its  properties.  When  he  made  the  column  of  mercury  rise 
or  fall,  by  applying  or  withdrawing  the  ball  of  his  thumb,  they  looked 
on  with  terror,  calUng  the  Prophet  to  their  aid.  He  then  showed  them 
a  telescope  and  repeating  watch,  and  exploded  some  fulminating  silver ; 
all  of  which  all  the  more  firmly  convinced  them  of  his  magical  powers. 
They  appomted  a  man  to  watch  him  day  and  night,  but  the  spy  found 


262 


CAILLIAUD'S    JOURNEY    TO    ETUIOPIA. 


the  sorcerer's  tnble  ho  much  better  than  his  ovm,  that  he  soon  became 
a  firm  friend.  Meanwhile  the  inhabitants  busied  themselves  in  pro- 
curing camels,  in  order  that  the  dangerous  visitor  might  be  enabled  to 
leave  as  soon  as  possible. 

The  departure  took  place  on  the  10th  of  February.  The  inhabitants 
assembled  in  a  crowd  to  witness  it,  and  Cailliaud  judged  it  prudent  to 
distribute  a  few  partwg  gifts  among  them.  The  cadi  gave  him  a  letter 
of  recommendation  to  the  shckiis  of  the  Oasis  of  Farafreh,  which  no 
European  had  ever  visited,  and  where,  consequently,  difficulties  were  to 
be  anticipated.  Passing  a  range  of  sand-stone  mountains,  and  plains  of 
gravel  dotted  with  isolated  peaks,  the  caravan  reached  a  village  called 
El-Hayz,  a  dependency  of  the  Little  Oasis,  after  ten  hours'  march.  Near 
this  place  are  the  remains  of  an  ancient  Christian  church,  on  the  wall 
of  which  the  travelers  noticed  a  mutilated  fresco  of  St.  George  and  the 
dragon.  After  five  days'  journey  over  barren  deserts,  passing  many  an- 
cient oases  which  the  sands  have  now  completely  inundated,  they  ap- 
proached Farafreh.  "An  accident,  which  might  have  proved  fattJ, 
broke  the  monotony  of  our  journey.  Our  camels  had  been  bitten  and 
frightened  by  a  vicious  he-camel  of  the  caravan,  and  my  interpreter  and 
myself  were  thrown  upon  the  bare  rock.  This  fall  was  terrible ;  it  was 
impossible  for  me  to  rise ;  ray  interpreter  fell  ujion  liis  head,  and  I  suf- 
fered intense  pains  in  the  loins.  But  we  were  near  Farafreh.  The  de- 
bire  of  arriving  there  gave  us  strength,  and  at  the  end  of  an  hour  our 
Arabs  assisted  us  to  remount  our  dromedaries. 

"  Toward  evening  we  discovered  the  palms  of  Farafreh,  and  arrived 
there  after  a  march  of  ten  hours.  On  seeing  us,  the  Arabs  flew  to 
arms,  and  assembled  at  the  gate  of  their  village ;  most  of  them  mounted 
on  the  towers  of  the  Kasr,  and  all  had  muskets.  These  preparations 
made  us  fear,  that  they  would  not  receive  us.  Seeing  us  advance,  they 
sent  two  men  to  parley  with  us.  The  greeting  of  these  men  was  un- 
friendly ;  they  offered  us  water  and  every  thing  else  which  we  wanted, 
on  condition  that  we  would  not  approach  the  callage,  adding  that  they 
had  orders  to  make  us  continue  our  route.  Our  reputation  in  the  Little 
Oasis  had  preceded  us,  and  it  was  known  that  we  were  Christians ;  but 
1  was  not  in  a  condition  to  go  further,  and  my  interpreter  was  scarcely 
able  to  speak.  I  told  them  I  had  a  firman  from  the  Pasha,  which  they 
should  sec  next  morning,  at  the  same  time  ordering  the  camels  to  be 
unloaded,  and  the  tents  pitched  near  the  village.  They  still  insisted  that 
we  should  leave,  but  I  threw  myself  on  my  carpet,  and  listened  to  no 
one.  When  they  had  been  informed  of  our  accident  they  took  pity  on 
us,  and  allowed  us  to  pass  the  night  tranquilly." 

The  next  day  the  shekhs  of  the  place  came  to  visit  Cailliaud.  They 
paid  no  attention  to  the  firman  of  Mohammed  Ali,  nor  to  the  letter  of 
the  shekh  of  the  Little  Oasis ;  but  a  dish  of  crows  cooked  with  rice, 
which  was  offered  to  them,  secured  their  good  graces — nothing  more 
was  said  of  forcing  the  travelers  to  leave,  although  they  were  denied  en- 


■MMH 


lOPIA. 

It  he  BOon  became 

themselves  in  pro- 

Ight  be  enabled  to 

The  inhubitauts 
iged  it  prudent  to 
i  gave  him  a  letter 
JFaraireh,  which  no 
difficulties  were  to 
itains,  and  plains  of 
'hed  a  village  caUed 
lours'  march.    Near 
church,  on  the  wall 
St.  George  and  the 
ts,  passing  many  an- 
inundated,  they  ap- 
t  have  proved  fatal, 
»ad  been  bitten  and 
my  interpreter  and 
was  terrible ;  it  was 
his  head,  and  I  suf- 
Farafreh.    The  de- 
end  of  an  hour  our 

Farafreh,  and  arrived 
18,  the  Arabs  flew  to 
nost  of  them  mounted 
,    These  preparations 
jing  us  advance,  they 
of  these  men  was  un- 
slse  which  we  wanted, 
ige,  adding  that  they 
eputation  in  the  Little 
!  were  Christians ;  but 
terpreter  was  scarcely 
the  Pasha,  which  they 
ring  the  camels  to  be 
They  still  insisted  that 
et,  and  listened  to  no 
lent  they  took  pity  on 

visit  Cailliaud.  They 
A\,  nor  to  the  letter  of 
ows  cooked  with  rice, 

graces — nothing  more 
;h  they  were  denied  en- 


THB    OASES    OF    FARAFREH    AND    DAKHEL. 


253 


trance  into  the  village.  Cailliaud,  during  the  two  following  days,  suc- 
ceeded in  making  a  plan  of  the  oasis,  and  in  taking  a  sketch  of  the  vil- 
lage by  means  of  a  camera  obscura.  While  he  M-as  thus  employed  the 
natives  thronged  around,  curious  to  know  what  he  was  doing.  lie  di- 
rected M.  Lctorzcc  to  take  a  telescope  and  point  it  to  the  sun ;  the 
interpreter  made  the  people  sit  on  the  ground  and  observe  profound 
silence.  After  the  magical  operation  was  linished  the  chiefs  were  allowed 
to  look  through  the  telescope,  and  they  cried  out  in  astonishment  at 
seeing  the  sun  (through  the  colored  lens)  as  a  ball  of  purple  fire.  The 
people  were  then  allowed  to  look,  and  in  their  gratification,  they  gave 
the  travelers  permission  to  enter  their  village.  Contrary  to  Cailliaud's 
expectation,  there  were  no  ruins  of  importance.  The  principal  building 
was  the  Kasr,  or  Castle,  which  was  about  three  hundred  feet  in  circuit, 
and  thirty-five  feet  in  height,  built  of  stone  and  burned  bricks.  The 
Oasis  of  Farafreh  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  which  was  conquered 
by  the  Moslems  from  the  Chrbtians  who  formerly  inhabited  these  des- 
erts. 

After  a  stay  of  four  days,  Cailliaud  set  out  for  the  Oasis  of  Dakhel, 
which  he  reached  after  a  journey  of  three  days.  On  approaching  the 
largest  village,  called  also  the  Kasr,  the  principal  inhabitants  came  out 
to  receive  him.  After  he  had  encamped  in  a  gorden  of  dates  and 
olive-trees,  outside  of  the  wall,  the  shekhs  came,  bringing  a  present  of 
dates  and  dried  apricots.  When  he  informed  them  that  he  desired  to 
see  the  antiquities  of  the  oasis,  they  willingly  offered  to  show  them  to 
him.  These  antiquities,  however,  are  of  little  importance,  consisting  of 
some  catacombs,  several  brick  edifices  of  Roman  construction,  and  a 
small  Egyptian  temple  which  appears  to  belong  to  the  era  of  the  Ptole- 
mies. Near  the  town  there  is  a  natural  warm  spring,  which  the  inhabit- 
ants have  conducted  into  baths  cut  in  the  rock,  where  they  bathe  every 
morning. 

Some  Arabs,  coming  from  Siout,  brought  the  news  that  the  pasha 
was  preparing  an  expedition  against  Dongola,  and  this  news  excited  in 
Cailliaud  the  desire  to  profit  by  the  occasion,  to  visit  Ethiopia  and 
Meroe.  Besides  this,  his  funds  were  getting  low  and  his  party  were 
exhausted  by  the  fatigues  of  desert  travel.  Instead,  therefore,  of  re- 
maining to  make  a  careful  survey  of  the  oasis,  he  determined  to  make  a 
hasty  visit  to  the  Great  Oasis  of  El-Khargeh  (sometimes  called  the 
Oasis  of  Thebes),  and  then  return  to  the  Nile.  After  a  stay  of  only  two 
days  at  Kasr-Dakhel,  he  set  out,  journeying  through  the  oasis  for  the 
first  day  or  two ;  the  path  then  led  over  an  elevated  desert  plateau, 
crossed  by  detached  mountain  chains.  "  On  the  morning  of  the  1st  of 
March,  we  reached  a  mountain  of  sandstone,  whence  we  had  the  satis- 
faction of  discovering,  in  the  south-east,  the  palms  of  El-Khargeh,  two 
and  a  half  leagues  distant.  It  would  have  been  more  agreeable  to  us 
to  have  seen  the  palms  of  the  Nile ;  my  Arabs,  above  all,  would  have 
desired  it,  as  two  of  them  were  suffering  severely  with  fever,  but  we 


— ^r- 


,ii.m;i  ITi    I  •■innriTriinr'ir  ■—>»•»*' 


iffirT*'"*"^'*"'-"     I-  — 


254 


CAILLIAUD'8   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 


wore  ftll  (lolightod  to  reach  El-Khargeh,  where  wo  should  have  two  days 
rest.  We  soon  descended  into  the  valley,  and  encamped  near  a  fine 
fountain,  tinder  some  superb  acacias.  It  was  a  lively  pleasure  to  me  to 
behold  again  the  ruins  which  had  excited  my  surprise  and  admiration  in 
April,  1818.  The  shekh  of  El-Khargeh,  who  was  soon  apprised  of  the 
arrival  of  Europeans,  ran  to  meet  me.  What  was  his  surpritte  when  ho 
recognized  me,  after  an  absence  of  two  years  I  He  no  longer  considered 
me  as  a  fool,  and  was  more  than  ever  convinced  that  I  had  discovered 
treasures  among  the  ruins,  which  I  had  now  come  to  carry  away." 

Cailliaud  only  remained  two  days,  to  examine  the  great  temple, 
which  is  one  hundred  and  ninety-five  feet  in  length,  and  then  took  the 
direct  road  to  Siout,  in  Upper  Egypt.  The  journey  was  very  rough  and 
fatiguing;  they  expected  to  reach  the  Nile  by  the  end  of  the  fourth  day, 
but  the  camels  were  too  much  fatigued.  The  next  morning  "  the  camels 
were  very  lively;  they  seemed  already  to  smell  the  air  of  the  Nile-val- 
ley. At  the  end  of  an  hour,  we  reached  the  crest  of  a  mountain,  and  all 
at  once  discovered  at  our  feet  the  shores  of  the  Nile,  which  we  had 
quitted  four  months  before.  Then,  suffering  our  glances  to  wander 
alternately  over  the  desert  we  had  traversed,  and  the  smiling  perspective 
before  us,  we  admired  at  our  leisure  this  interesting  contrast.  On  one 
side,  the  river  presented  to  us,  as  far  as  our  vision  extended,  its  banks 
covered  with  verdure,  with  flowers,  and  with  harvests ;  the  palms  of  the 
Nile,  the  numerous  barks  upon  the  water,  and  the  animals  which  grazed 
upon  the  shores,  animated  the  lovely  landscape :  on  the  other  hand,  the 
desert  still  saddened  us  with  the  appearance  of  its  vast  sea  of  arid  and 
burning  sands." 

"On  reaching  the  cultivated  lands,  we  encountered  a  Bedouin 
woman,  carrying  a  jar  of  water  upon  her  head,  and  begged  her  to  stop. 
She  contemplated  our  caravan,  exhausted  with  fatigue;  our  camels, 
haggard  and  marching  painfully ;  our  own  pale  faces,  our  Arabs  covered 
with  dust,  depressed  and  shaking  with  fever — ^these  objects  at  once  told 
her  how  much  we  needed  water,  and  she  hastened  to  offer  us  all  that 
her  jar  contained,  with  some  dates.  The  young  woman  asked  if  it  had 
been  a  long  time  since  we  had  left  the  Nile.  *  Four  months,'  replied 
the  Arabs.  '  Four  months  !♦  she  excleumed,  fixing  upon  us  her  beautifUl 
dark  eyes,  with  a  touching  expression  of  tenderness  and  pity.  Then, 
by  a  spontaneous  movement,  she  extended  her  arms  toward  us,  adding 
in  a  plaintive  voice,  *  O  my  friends,  O  my  unfortunate  brothers  1'  I 
presented  this  charitable  creature  with  a  silver  coin,  and  we  left  her  with 
our  benedictions." 

Disappointed  in  finding  letters  from  Europe  at  Siout,  Cailliaud  re- 
solved to  proceed  immediately  to  Cairo,  where  he  arrived  on  the  18th. 
He  was  not  able  to  see  Mohammed  Ali,  for  the  plague  had  broken  out 
in  the  citadel,  and  the  pasha  had  shut  himself  up  in  his  palace  at  Shoo- 
bra.  The  French  Consul,  Drovetti,  however,  presented  him  to  Ismml 
Pasha,  who  was  about  setting  out  for  Upper  Egypt,  to  take  command 


9v 


ssm 


mmmmiismmtm 


ITHIOPIA. 

0  should  have  two  days 
encamped  near  a  fine 

lively  pleasure  to  me  to 
rprise  and  admiration  in 
ras  soon  apprised  of  the 
as  his  surpriite  when  ho 
le  no  longer  considered 
that  I  had  discovered 
le  to  carry  away." 
nine  the  great  temple, 
ngth,  and  then  took  the 
ney  was  very  rough  and 
e  end  of  the  fourth  day, 
xt  morning  "  the  camels 

1  the  air  of  the  Nile-val- 
st  of  a  mountain,  and  all 
he  Nile,  which  we  had 
our  glances  to  wander 
[  the  smiling  perspective 
Bting  contrast.  On  one 
sion  extended,  its  banks 
irvests ;  the  palms  of  the 
he  animals  which  grazed 
:  on  the  other  hand,  the 
its  vast  sea  of  arid  and 

encountered  a  Bedouin 
and  begged  her  to  stop. 
;h  fatigue ;  our  camels, 
faces,  our  Arabs  covered 
lese  objects  at  once  told 
med  to  offer  us  all  that 
^  woman  asked  if  it  had 
•  Four  months,'  replied 
ng  upon  us  her  beautifUl 
emess  and  pity.  Then, 
arms  toward  us,  adding 
ifortunate  brothers  1'  I 
!oin,  and  we  left  her  with 

pe  at  Siout,  Cailliaud  re- 
}  he  arrived  on  the  18th. 
plague  had  broken  out 
up  in  his  palace  at  Shoo- 
presented  him  to  Ismml 
Sgypt,  to  take  command 


THE    EXPEDITION    OP    ISMAIL   PASHA. 


256 


of  tlio  expedition  against  Dongola.  This  prince  assured  the  traveler 
of  his  protection,  and  offered  to  assist  him  in  the  execution  o/  his 
plans.  As  it  was  difficult  to  hire  a  vessel  for  the  ascent  of  the  Nile, 
Cailliaud  purchased  a  boat  about  twenty-five  feet  long,  with  a  cabin 
large  enough  for  three  persons,  and  sailed  for  Upper  Egypt  on  the 
22d  of  April,  accompanied  by  M.  Letorzec,  an  interpreter,  and  two 
Arab  servants.  On  reaching  Siont,  ho  learned  that  the  expedition  to 
DongoJa  had  been  retarded,  and  therefore  proceeded  to  Tlu-bes,  where 
he  arrived  on  the  14th  of  May,  designing  to  occupy  himself  with 
archieological  studies  during  the  delay.  Ho  had  a  temi)orary  dwelling 
made  from  the  stones  of  a  ruined  temple,  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain 
of  Goomeh;  the  roof  was  composed  of  the  lids  of  mummy-coffms. 
Here  he  occupied  himself  in  copying  the  representations  in  the  adjoin- 
ing tombs ;  but  the  continued  delay  of  the  expedition  led  him  to  be- 
lie\e  that  he  would  have  time  to  return  to  Cairo,  and  make  an  excur- 
sion to  the  ruins  of  Cyrene  on  the  Libyan  coast,  before  the  departure  of 
Ismail  Pasha  for  Dongola. 

In  consequence  of  this,  he  departed  from  Thebes  on  the  6th  of  June, 
and  an-ived  at  Cairo  after  a  voyage  of  twenty  days.  Here  he  visited 
Ismail  Pasha,  who  renewed  to  him  the  promise  of  his  assistance  and  pro- 
tection, but  added  that  ho  intended  to  set  out  with  the  expedition  in 
fifteen  days.  Cailliaud's  voyage  was  therefore  useless,  and  after  visiting 
the  petrified  forests  near  Cairo,  he  started  on  his  return  to  Upper  Egypt 
on  the  27  th  of  July.  After  a  tedious  voyage  of  twenty-two  days  he 
again  reached  Thebes,  but  continued  his  journey  without  halt— except 
to  purchase  four  dromedaries  at  Daraou — to  Assouan,  where  Ismail 
Pasha  was  then  encamped,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Nile.  "  The  shores 
were  crowded  with  barks,  and  covered  with  troops,  tents,  camels,  cav- 
alry, baggage,  ammunition,  and  artillery;  every  thing  announced  the 
war  which  was  soon  to  be  carried  on  in  Nubia.  These  preparations  had 
an  important  aspect :  the  cries  of  the  animals,  the  acclamations  of  the 
l>eople,  the  songs  of  the  Albanians,  the  music  of  the  cymbals  and  flutes, 
and  the  roll  of  the  drums — all  contributed  to  excite  the  imagination. 
The  camp  presented  a  picture  of  mirth  ;  each  one  gave  himself  up  to 
joy ;  the  soldiers  saw  pillage  in  perspective ;  the  pasha  flattered  himself 
with  the  idea  of  capturing  forty  thousand  negroes ;  the  Europeans  were 
amUtious  of  reaching  Meroe,  and  in  that  ambition,  exposed  themselves 
to  the  dangers  and  chances  of  an  unjust  war." 

Soon  after  his  arrival,  Cailliaud  paid  a  visit  to  Ismail  Pasha,  and 
found  him  still  favorably  disposed.  He  offered  the  traveler  a  tent,  and 
the  usual  daily  ration,  which  the  latter  declined.  Soon  afterward,  how- 
ever, he  learned  that  the  Greek  physicians  in  the  pasha's  service  ■«  re 
intriguing  to  prevent  hira  from  gomg ;  reports  were  spread  that  he  had 
a  secret  commission  from  the  French  government  to  search  for  gold 
mines.  On  visiting  the  pasha  a  second  time,  two  days  afterward,  Cailliaud 
saw  that  these  intrigues  were  likely  to  prove  successful.    He  was  coldly 


256 


CAILLIAUD'3   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 


received,  and  tho  pasha  stated  that,  Hinco  reflecting  upon  the  fltihjoct,  ho 
believed  tliat  it  would  bo  UHeleHS  for  liini  to  accompany  tho  expedition, 
M'hich  was  wholly  warlike,  and  would  pivo  him  no  opportunity  of 
examining  the  antiquities  of  tho  country.  Tho  traveler  presented  to 
him  three  firmans,  which  ho  had  received  from  Mohammed  Ali,  but  as 
the  name  of  Dongola  was  not  mentioned  in  them,  tho  pasha  made  this  a 
pretext  for  persisting  in  his  refusal,  stating  that  a  now  firman  would  bo 
necessary. 

Cailliaud  had  already  gone  to  considerable  expense  in  preparing  for 
the  journey,  and  rather  than  give  up  his  hopes  at  this  point,  ho  deter- 
n)ined  to  return  at  onco  to  Cairo.  Tho  coimtry  was  inundated  by  tho 
rise  of  tho  Nile ;  his  progress  Avas  tedious  and  delayed  by  accidents,  and 
ho  did  not  reach  Cairo  until  tho  20th  of  September.  Mohammed  Ali 
had  gone  to  Alexandria,  whither  tho  traveler  followed  him.  He  lost  no 
time  in  being  presented  to  tho  pasha,  who  demanded  news  of  his  son  Is- 
mail and  tho  army.  Cailliaud  gave  him  the  desired  information,  then 
spoke  of  Sennaar  and  tho  gold-mines  which  were  said  to  exist  in  tho 
mountains  beyond  that  country,  promising  to  examine  them  and  report 
to  him  whether  they  could  be  profitably  worked.  This  proposition  was 
well  received,  and  the  pasha  promised  new  firmans  for  Sennaar  and  tho 
gold-mines,  which  wero  made  out  and  delivered  tAVO  days  afterward. 
The  return  voyage  was  immediately  commenced ;  four  days  more  wero 
spent  at  Cairo,  in  procuring  additional  supplies,  and  the  party,  after  en- 
countering a  violent  hurricane  in  passing  Djebel  Silsileh,  did  not  reach 
Daraou  until  the  19th  of  November.  Hero  ho  obtained  a  guide  for  Don- 
gola, and  learned,  from  messengers  descendmg  the  Nile,  that  Ismail 
Pasha  had  gained  a  victory  over  the  Shygheeas,  in  Southern  Nubia.  Tho 
messengers  carried  with  them  the  heads  of  six  shekhs,  and  tho  ears  of 
several  himdred  warriors,  which  the  pasha  was  sending  to  Mohammed 
Ali. 

Cailliaud's  caravan,  consisting  of  eight  persons — includbg  himself, 
31.  Letorzec,  and  the  capttun  of  his  bark,  a  Maltese — left  Assouan  on  the 
25th  of  November.  They  ascended  the  western  bank  of  the  Nile,  de- 
voting very  little  time  to  tho  examination  of  the  Egyptian  temples  in 
Nubia,  in  their  haste  to  overtake  the  army,  and  reached  Wadi  Hal& 
(the  second  cataract)  on  the  8th  of  December.  After  being  detained  in 
this  neighborhood  for  some  days  by  vexatious  disputes  in  relation  to 
guides  and  camels,  which  it  is  not  necessary  to  describe,  they  resumed 
their  journey  through  the  Batn  el-Hadjar,  Sukkot,  and  Mahass,  taking 
nearly  the  same  route  followed  by  Burckhardt  in  his  return  from  the  lat- 
ter country.  The  track  sometimes  followed  the  course  of  the  river, 
sometimes  swerved  to  the  right,  into  the  desert,  to  avoid  its  windings. 
On  the  3d  of  January,  1821,  they  reached  the  temple  of  Soleb,  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  Egyptian  monuments  in  Nubia,  above  the  second  cata- 
ract, and  renmned  several  days  to  examine  it.  Cailliaud  considered  it 
of  similar  style  to  the  Memnonium  at  Thebes ;  he  givea  its  length  at  three 


^niopiA. 

g  upon  tho  fltilyoct,  ho 
mpiiny  tho  oxiicilition, 
m   no  opportunity  of 

traveler  prexented  to 
^lohammcd  All,  but  as 

tho  pasha  made  this  a 
,  now  firman  would  bo 

|)cnso  in  preparing  for 
it  this  point,  ho  deter- 
'  was  inundated  by  tho 
ayed  by  accidents,  and 
ibcr.  Mohammed  All 
Dwed  him.  He  lost  no 
led  news  of  his  son  Is- 
iired  information,  then 

0  said  to  exist  in  tho 
mine  them  and  report 

This  proposition  was 
13  for  Sennoar  and  tho 
i  tAVO  days  afterward. 
;  four  days  more  were 
ad  the  party,  after  cn- 
Silsilch,  did  not  reach 
itained  a  guide  for  Don- 
the  Nile,  that  Ismail 

1  Southern  Nubia.  Tho 
hekhs,  and  the  ears  of 
sending  to  Mohammed 

>ns — ^including  himself, 
ie — left  Assouan  on  the 

bank  of  the  Nile,  de- 
e  Egyptian  temples  in 
1  reached  Wadi  Halfii 
^fter  being  detained  in 
disputes  in  relation  to 
describe,  they  resumed 
ot,  and  Mahass,  taking 
his  return  from  the  lat- 
le  course  of  the  river, 

to  avoid  its  windings, 
ople  of  Soleb,  the  most 
hbove  the  second  cata- 

Cailliaud  considered  it 
jivca  its  length  at  three 


¥, 
i 


ENJ 


I'^^^^C 


^^ki^GSOt^* 


MEETING    WITH    ENGLISH    TRAVELERS. 


267 


hnndrccl  and  fifty  feet,  and  counted  the  remains  of  more  tlian  ninety  col- 
umnB,  some  of  which,  thirty-two  feet  high,  are  still  standing  on  their 
pedestals.* 

On  the  11th  of  January,  the  caravan  reached  the  frontier  of  Dongola. 
*'  Our  route  was  bordered  by  a  grove  of  tufted  acacias,  which  hid  from 
our  view  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  At  a  quarter  of  a  league  to  the 
west,  we  saw  other  acacias,  with  cultivated  fields  and  the  habitations  of 
the  Arabs.  There,  only,  I  felt  that  I  had  quitted  Egypt.  In  Lower 
Nubia,  as  in  Egypt,  the  monotonous  aspect  of  the  palms,  the  burning 
rocks,  the  sands  which  threaten  to  engulf  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  occasion 
a  profound  feeling  of  melancholy ;  but  the  region  I  had  reached  pre- 
sented a  very  different  aspect — the  palms  were  there  replaced  by  thick 
woods  of  acacias  and  of  nebbuks.  This  verdure  recalled  Franco  to  my 
mind  ;  I  felt  the  liveliest  emotion  in  traversing  this  smiling  country.  In 
the  afternoon  we  encamped  at  the  village  of  Hafyr,  where  we  remained 
a  day,  and  met  with  Messrs.  Waddington  and  Hanbury,  who  came  from 
the  province  of  Shygheea,  the  limit  of  their  journey,  and  were  returning 
to  Cairo.  I  flattered  myself  that  this  unexpected  meeting  would  pro- 
cure me  the  advantage  of  learning  what  the  antiquities  were  which,  the 
Arabs  had  told  me,  existed  in  Shygheea ;  but  Mr.  Waddington,  whom  I 
questioned  on  the  subject,  was  by  no  means  indiscreet.  He  suffered  me 
to  remain  in  the  most  profound  ignorance,  and  my  surprise  was  there- 
fore extreme,  when,  on  arriving  at  Berkel,  I  first  beheld  the  grand  monu- 
ments there.'' 

A  few  days  after  this,  the  caravan  began  to  suffer  from  a  scarcity  of 
provisions.  Sheep  were  to  be  had,  and  the  travelers  shot  doves  and 
partridges,  but  the  array  of  Ismail  Pasha  had  swept  away  all  the  grain, 
80  that  they  had  neither  bread  for  themselves,  nor  food  for  their  camels. 
Opposite  the  island  of  Argo,  Cailliaud  learned  that  there  was  a  depot  of 
army  supplies,  but  on  visiting  it,  found  that  nothing  was  to  be  had  except 
some  dourra  (a  coarse  grain  resembling  broom-corn),  and  dried  beans, 
and  to  obtain  even  these  he  must  first  procure  an  order  from  King  Tom- 
boul,  who  lived  on  an  a^'oining  island.  Katiz  Effcndi,  the  commissary, 
nevertheless  received  the  traveler  kindly,  invited  him  to  dinner,  and  ot 
fered  to  allow  his  caravan  to  accompany  a  small  military  party  of  his 
own,  which  was  to  leave  for  Ismael  Pasha's  camp  in  a  few  days.  This 
offer  was  accepted ;  a  visit  to  King  Toraboul  procured  two  bags  of 
dourra  and  beans ;  and  Cailliaud  then  set  to  work  to  examine  the  anti- 
quities of  the  island. 

'"  We  Avere  obliged,"  he  says,  "  to  traverse  plains  covered  with  thick 
woods,  where  it  was  often  necessary  to  descend  from  our  horses  in  order 

*  The  Temple  of  Soleb,  situated  in  the  midst  of  ft  landscape  which  presents  the  most 
enchanting  forms,  stands  in  a  little  bay  of  verdure,  inclosed  on  three  sides  by  the  rocks 
of  the  Deaert  Whether  the  traveler  approaches  it  from  north  or  south,  it  appears  unex- 
pectedly, and  the  surprise  of  thu  first  view  tends  to  lieighten  the  impression  of  its  sym- 
metry and  majesty. — B.  T.      ,1  -  I 

t1 


, 


258 


CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 


to  penetrate  the  little  paths,  bordered  with  acacia  and  arbutus.    The 
charms  of  these  delicious  paths  made  us  disregard  the  obstacles  we  en- 
countered     Vegetation,  on  this  island,  breathes  of  freshness  and  life: 
the  trees  which  have  been  dried  up  by  age,  or  choked  by  the  violent 
embraces  of  the  parasitic  vuies,  stiU  present  the  appearance  of  vigor  and 
youth  under  the  tissue  of  verdure,  with  which  these  gigantic  plants  em- 
brace  them,  forming  arbors  which  no  art  can  imitate.    We  at  length  ar- 
rived at  the  spot,  where  lie  the  two  colossal  statues  of  Memnon.    A  bare 
space,  covered  with  fragments  of  sandstone,  and  two  hundred  and  fifty 
by  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet,  indicates  the  extent  of  the  temple,  the 
materials  of  which  have  entirely  disappeared.    Not  a  smgle  stone  of  any 
size,  which  might  have  formed  part  of  it,  can  now  be  recognized.    At 
the  eastern  extremity  are  the  statues,  overthrown  upon  the  earth.  They 
are  of  irray  granite,  and  about  twenty-two  feet  high.    The  execution  is 
not  of  a  very  good  style ;  the  bodies  are  too  flat,  and  the  nose  too  de- 
pressed;  one  does  not  see  the  correct  and  beautiful  workmanship  of  the 
head  of  the  young  Memnon,  shipped  to  England  by  Belzoni-whence  I 
infer  that  the  latter  is  a  more  recent  work  than  the  colossi  of  Argos. 

After  several  days'  detention  on  the  island,  CaUliaud  joined  a  caravan 
of  a  hundred  and  fifty  camels,  and  accompanied  it  to  Old  Dongola,  which 
he  reached  in  five  days.'    Here  he  had  his  own  camels  and  baggage  trans- 
ported to  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Nile,  which  was  considered  more  safe, 
and  then  devoted  two  days  to  an  inspection  of  the  town.    He  found  httle 
to  interest  him  except  an  ancient  Coptic  convent,  bmlt  of  burned  bncks 
On  the  terrace  over  the  upper  story  were  still  to  be  seen  the  remains  of 
the  belfry,  while  pilars  of  granite,  with  the  lotus  capital,  supported  the 
interior.    The  Mussulmen,  although  knowing  the  building  to  have  been 
erected  by  the  Christians,  had  nevertheless  converted  it  mto  a  mosque. 
Dongola,  formerly  a  flourishing  city,  had  been  ruined  by  the  mcursions 
of  the  Shygheeas,  and  in  traversing  the  streets,  CaiUiaud  only  met  with 
two  half-naked  women,  shivering  with  cold ;  for  the  witid  was  blowing 
strongly  from  the  north,  and  the  place  was  enveloped  in  clouds  of  sand. 
Leaving  Dongola  on  the  3d  of  February,  the  caravan  continued  to 
ascend  the  Nile,  finding  traces  of  the  war  in  wounded  men  and  devas- 
tated vUlages.    In  three  days  they  reached  the  frontier  of  the  Shygheea 
country,  at  the  village  of  Karafiit.    While  resting  there  three  quarters 
of  an  hour  under  a  large  acacia,  they  were  accosted  by  several  Shygheeas, 
who  spoke  Arabic.    One  of  them  had  lost  his  ears  at  the  battle  of 
Korti,  and  related  to  CailUaud  an  exciting  story  of  his  Bufferings  and 
escape     Beyond  this  were  many  abandoned  villages  and  deserted  telds. 
In  two  more  days  they  arrived  at  Merawe,  "and  it  was  not  without  sur- 
prise," says  CailUaud,  "  that  I  found  here  a  place  of  this  name.    I  in- 
quired carefully  whether  there  were  any  antiquities  m  the  neighborhood, 
and  was  informed  that  at  Mount  Berkel,  a  shqrt  distance  off,  there  was 
a  'city  of  the  infidels.'  There  were  the  monuments  whose  existence  Mr. 
Waddington  wished  to  conceal  from  me.    The  next  morning  we  set  out 


aiopiA. 

,  and  arbutus.    The 
the  obstacles  we  en- 
r  freshness  and  life: 
loked  by  the  violent 
earance  of  vigor  and 
e  gigantic  plants  em- 
,e.    We  at  length  ar- 
ofMemnon.    A  bare 
,vo  hundred  and  fifty 
)nt  of  the  temple,  the 
,  a  single  stone  of  any 
y  be  recognized.    At 
ipon  the  earth.  They 
yh.    The  execution  is 
and  the  nose  too  de- 
1  workmanship  of  the 
ay  Belzoni — whence  I 
3  colossi  of  Argos." 
liaud  joined  a  caravan 
o  Old  Dongola,  which 
els  and  baggage  trans- 
considered  more  safe, 
;own.    He  found  little 
built  of  burned  bricks. 
)e  seen  the  remains  of 
capital,  supported  the 
building  to  have  been 
erted  it  into  a  mosque, 
lined  by  the  incursions 
)ailliaud  only  met  with 
the  witid  was  blowing 
)ped  in  clouds  of  sand. 
i  caravan  continued  to 
)unded  men  and  devas- 
ontier  of  the  Shygheea 
ig  there  three  quarters 
i  by  several  Shygheeas, 
ears  at  the  battle  of 
y  of  his  sufferings  and 
ges  and  deserted  fields, 
it  was  not  without  sur- 
36  of  this  name.    I  in- 
es  in  the  neighborhood, 
;  distance  off,  there  was 
its  whose  existence  Mr. 
ext  morning  we  set  out 


A    NIGHT    VISIT. 


259 


to  visit  them,  across  the  cultivated  fields.  Passing  the  grand  pyramidal 
mansions  of  the  Shekhs  of  Shygheea,  after  a  short  march,  wo  reached  a 
little  village  called  Shibat.  What  was  my  joy,  when  I  discovered  pyra- 
mids to  the  north,  and  soon  a  great  extent  of  ruins  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Berkel !  Impatient  to  arrive,  I  urged  on  my  dromedary.  I  then  ad- 
vanced on  foot  into  the  midst  of  those  immense  ruins ;  here,  the  remains 
of  a  beautiful  temple  were  exposed  to  my  gaze ;  there,  piled  together 
confusedly,  the  debris  of  pillars,  temples,  and  pyramids.  Where  shall 
I  direct  my  steps  ?  To  which  shall  I  give  the  preference  ?  I  desired 
to  see  every  thing  at  once.  To  the  east,  on  the  other  bank,  I  saw  the 
summits  of  several  other  pyramids.  I  ran  rapidly  around  the  ancient 
inclosure  of  eight  temples,  and  the  pyramids ;  but  the  day  passed  away, 
and  I  could  take  but  a  superficial  view  of  the  crowd  of  objects  which 
surrounded  me,  before  the  night  constrained  us  to  retire.  A  Shygheean 
family  gave  us  lodgings  for  the  night,  in  a  little  village  near  the  river. 
T!ie  women  only  were  at  home;  their  husbands,  in  order  to  escape 
from  the  Turks,  to  whom  they  had  not  yet  submitted,  were  concealed 
somewhere  in  the  desert." 

In  the  night,  while  Cailliaud  was  dreaming  of  the  antiquities  he  had 
seen,  he  was  aroused  by  the  trampling  of  horses,  and  the  voices  of  men. 
"I  arose,  and  as  our  chamber  had  no  door,  in  an  instant  I  was  in  the 
court,  where  I  saw  five  Shygheeans  on  horseback.  It  was  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  house,  accompanied  by  four  friends,  who  had  quitted 
their  retreat,  to  visit  their  wives  under  cover  of  the  night.  One  of 
these  men  accosted  me  in  an  angry  voice,  demanding  why  the  pasha  did 
not  choose  some  other  mode  of  punishment  than  impalement.  I  was 
astounded  at  this  question,  the  purport  of  which  I  could  not  conceive ; 
but  his  friends  called  the  man  and  ho  entered  with  them.  The  rest  of 
my  party  were  already  awakened  by  the  noise.  The  Shygheeans  began 
to  drink  mareesa,  a  liquor  which  sometimes  bewilders  the  head.  A 
slave  finally  gave  me  the  key  to  the  sanguinary  remark  which  had  been 
addressed  to  me.  The  bodies  of  five  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  place 
were  at  that  moment  exposed  near  our  lodging,  upon  the  stakes  of  their 
impalement ;  they  were  malefactors,  who  had  been  executed  in  this 
manner  on  account  of  their  murders  and  robberies.  This  execution, 
horrible  as  it  was,  no  doubt  contributed  to  our  own  safety.  We  kept 
guard  the  rest  of  the  night,  but  before  morning  the  five  Shygheeans 
hastened  to  regain  the  desert." 

The  next  day  CailUaud  set  out  on  a  visit  to  Ismail  Pasha,  whose  camp 
he  reached  after  a  march  of  five  hours.  The  prince  was  iU,  but  he  was 
very  kindly  received  by  Abdin  Bey,  to  whom  he  delivered  his  new  fir- 
mans, and  who,  after  perusing  them,  made  profuse  offers  of  his  services. 
The  army  was  to  set  out  for  Berber  and  Shendy  in  three  days,  and  the 
traveler  immediately  sent  for  his  companion,  M.  Letorzec,  and  the  rest 
of  his  baggage,  in  order  to  be  in  readmess.  Meanwhile,  he  took  occa- 
sion to  visit  the  pyramids  of  Noori,  which  he  had  first  seen  at  a  distance, 


\ 


! 


I 


260 


CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA 


from  the  foot  of  Mount  Bcrkel.    Tlicsc  pyraniids  arc  fifteen  in  number     j 
ofmoJenUe  size,  the  base  of  the  largest  mea.unng  one  hundred  and 
sixty  feet,  but  curious  from  the  resemblance  of  some  of  them  to  the  ter- 

raced  pvramids  of  Sakkara.  , .    /. .       j  •  j- 

On  the  18th,  IsmaU  Pasha  having  recovered  from  his  feigned  indis- 
position, CaUUaud  was  admitted  to  see  him     He  was  received  with  all 
[he  political  cunning  of  the  Turkish  race  but  it  was  decided  that  he 
should  be  allowed  to  accompany  the  expedition,  although,  previous  to 
this  interview,  it  was  known  that  the  prince  was  strongly  opposed  to  it, 
under  the  prelenso  that  the  firmans  of  his  father  were  not  addressed    o 
him     lie  had  even,  as  Cailliaud  after^-ard  learned,  sent  a  dispatch  to 
the  governor  at  Wady  Haifa,  to  prevent  the  traveler  from  going  beyond 
that  point,  but  the  messenger,  fortunately,  did  not  arnve  m  time.    The 
army  at  that  time  consisted  of  four  thousand  men,  of  whom  one  thou- 
sand eight  hundred  were  cavalry,  besides  two  thousand  servants  and 
three  thousand  camels.     There  were  also  twenty-four  pieces  ot  artillery. 
The  pasha  had  a  body-guard  of  twenty  Mamelukes.    The  diplomatic 
functions  were  exercised  by  three  ulemas  who  made  great  eftor  s  to 
subjugate  the  people  by  moral  suasion,  and  avoid  the  effusion  of  bloody 
They  often  succeeded  in  this  humane  intent,  and  were  rewarded  with 
robes  of  honor,  and  a  sum  equal  to  about  one  thousand  two  hundred 

"he'clmp  wa.  broken  up  on  the  21st  of  February,  and  the  army 
commenced  L  march  to  Berber.     One  third  of  the  foops  were  left 
^vith  the  boats,  which  were  obliged  to  wait  for  the  rise  of  the  NUe  to 
pass  the  cataracts;  the  remainder,  headed  by  the  pasha,  took  a  south- 
List  course  across  the  desert,  to  avoid  the  great  cui-ve  of  the  Nde.    At 
nine  o'clock  a  gun  gave  the  signal  for  loadmg  the  cameK  and  the  ma^ch 
began  two  hours  afterward,  with  the  roll  of  drums.    The  ro«te  w^ 
difficult,  on  account  of  the  rocky  ranges  which  it  ^f  f ''^^XCniZ 
In  order  to  avoid  the  mid-day  heats,  the  army  traveled  mostly  by  night 
fi  es  were  lighted  along  the  route,  as  landmarks,  and  the  troops  amused 
themselves  by  kindling  the  dry  foliage  of  the  doum-palms.    On  the  fifth 
ni'hta  violent  wind  arose,  which  drove  the  flames  amorjg  the  baggage- 
clmels  and  several  of  Abdin  Bey's  tents  were  burned.  The  ammunition 
w^  for'lely  in  the  rear,  and  escaped.    The  night-^urney  was  so 
fatiguing,  as  it  was  almost  impossible  to  obtain  sleep  duiing  the  day 
thaf  clliaud  could  with  difficulty  keep  his  seat  on  his  camel.    In  the 
moling  the  rocky  valley  they  had  been  follow  ng,  ^f--  m^^^^^^^^^^ 
row;  the  presence  6f  palms  and  acacias  was  hailed  with  d«hgK J^^^^^^ 
announced  the  proximity  of  the  Nile.    Finally,  after  a  -f  «^f  J^^^^^^^^ 
hours,  worn  out  with  fatigue,  they  reached  the  mer.      l:^^^^'^^ 
savs  the  traveler,  "I  rendered  homage  to  him,  m  q»7«^"»g  7  *^  ^lu 
In  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  the  banks  were  covered  with  Bolto ,  ^U 
desired  to  drink  the  water  of  the  river,  or  to  plunge  into  it.    The  army 
ar.d  to  have  regained  a  new  existence.    The  Nile,  m  fact,  gives 


appea 


IIOPIA 

irc  fifteen  in  number, 
nsr  one  hundred  and 
no  of  them  to  the  ter- 

■om  his  feign  jd  indis- 
was  received  with  all 
was  decided  that  he 
although,  previous  to 
trongly  opposed  to  it, 
yere  not  addressed  to 
ed,  sent  a  dispatch  to 
ler  from  going  beyond 
t  arrive  in  time.  The 
sn,  of  whom  one  thou- 
housand  servants,  and 
bur  pieces  of  artillery, 
ukes.  The  diplomatic 
made  great  efforts  to 
I  the  effusion  of  blood! 
d  were  rewarded  with 
thousand  two  hundred 

'ebruary,  and  the  army 
f  the  troops  were  left 
the  rise  of  the  Nile,  to 
he  pasha,  took  a  south- 
cui-ve  of  the  Nile.  At 
e  camels,  and  the  march 
Irums.    The  route  was 

was  necessary  to  cross, 
aveled  mostly  by  night ; 

and  the  troops  amused 
um-palms.  On  the  fifth 
les  among  the  baggage- 
urned.  The  ammunition 
e  night-journey  was  so 
n  sleep  duiing  the  day, 
!it  on  his  camel.  In  the 
ving,  became  more  nar- 
dled  with  delight,  for  it 
ifter  a  march  of  fourteen 
river.     "  Like  the  rest," 

in  quenching  my  thirst, 
jvered  with  soldiers ;  all 
unge  into  it.    The  army 

The  Nile,  in  fact,  gives 


VISIT    OF    KING    LKOTARD. 


261 


life  to  every  thing  which  breathes  or  vi;getatus  in  these  countries,  iuu\ 
the  Egyptian  Avho  is  afar  from  its  creative  waters  gccms  to  have  lost  tlic; 
essential  part  of  his  vitality." 

The  day  after  the  pasha's  arrival,  a  courier  brought  news  that  the 
Shygheeans  had  rallied  and  imited  themselves  with  the  forces  of  Shtndy. 
Berber  was  but  two  days'  journey  distant,  but  the  cannon  had  not  yet 
arrived,  and  a  further  halt  was  oidereu,  until  it  should  come  up.  Tluoe 
days  afterward,  another  courier  brought  a  contradiction  of  the  first  nas- 
Hugc,  which,  it  was  subsequently  ascertained,  Avas  only  a  ruse  of  ilio 
pasha,  in  order  to  cncourago  his  troops  witli  the  prospect  of  a  batth,'.. 
The  march  was  resumed  at  midnight  on  the  4th  of  March.  "  Many  of 
the  camels,  overcome  with  fatigue,  dropped  by  the  way,  and  the  order 
was  given  to  slaughter  them  for  provisions.  One  of  my  own,  lying  upon 
the  ground,  was  unable  to  rise  ;  it  Mas  loaded  with  dhourra,  and  I  sliould 
have  willingly  lost  the  load  if  I  could  have  preserved  the  animal.  Tlio 
final  stimulant,  which  consists  in  applying  a  burning  torch  to  the  flanks, 
Avas  then  adnunistcred ;  the  poor  brute  rose  and  ran,  but  only  to  full 
again,  further  on." 

In  approaching  El-Mekheyref,  the  chief  city  of  Berber,  the  pasha,  in 
order  to  make  a  strong  impression  on  the  inhabitants,  disposed  his  army 
in  order  of  battle.  The  brilliant  array  of  the  troops,  their  rich  dresses, 
and  the  splendor  of  the  pasha's  staff",  filled  the  people  with  astonishment 
and  admiration ;  and  the  chiefs  of  the  country  came  at  once  with  off'ers 
of  submission.  In  order  to  proceed  further,  it  was  necessary  first  to  pro- 
cure a  great  number  of  baggage  camels,  and  expeditions  were  sent  among 
the  Arabs  of  the  surrounding  deserts  for  this  purpose.  Soon  after  his 
arrival,  Cailliaud  paid  a  visit  to  the  King  of  Berber,  Nasr  ed-Deen,  whom 
he  found  lying  upon  his  bed,  suffering  from  some  wounds  which  he  had 
received  in  his  Avars  with  the  Shygheeans.  A  low  stool,  exactly  similar 
to  those  which  are  represented  in  the  tombs  of  Thebes,  was  oflfered  to 
the  traveler,  who  was  also  furnished  Avith  coffee,  a  pipe,  and  some  other 
refreshments.  Five  shekhs,  tall,  athletic  men,  of  noble  figure,  were 
seated  around  the  king. 

"  On  the  12th  of  March,  a  son  of  Mck  Nemr  (King  Leopard),  the 
King  of  Shendy,  brought  to  Ismail  Pasha  tho  news  of  the  submission  of 
that  country.  The  latter  desired  a  visit  from  the  Mek  himself,  who 
reached  the  camp  on  the  22d.  He  was  in  a  sort  of  palanquin,  carried  by 
two  camels.  His  costume,  of  an  elegant  simplicity,  consisted  of  tAvo  robes 
of  great  fineness  ;  the  under  one  was  Avhite,  and  the  other  of  a  rich  In- 
dian stuff;  a  sort  of  mantle  hung  from  his  shoulders,  and  upon  his  head 
was  a  pointed  cajy,  with  long,  falling  ends.  His  guard  was  composed  of 
fifty  men  armed  Avith  lances,  shields,  and  sabers,  some  of  Avhich  were 
adorned  Avith  silver  ;  behind  him  marched  two  men  armed  Avith  lances, 
and  two  others  caiTying  long  Avands,  tipped  Avitli  balls  of  silver.  After 
having  several  times  prostrated  himself,  Avith  a  sad  and  humiliated  air, 
the  unhappy  king,  on  being  invited  thereto,  seated  himself  upon  a  carpet 


J 


262  CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 

in  front  of  Ismail  I'asha.  Ho  took  the  hand  of  the  latter  kissed  it  above 
and  below,  and  placed  it  upon  his  head  in  token  of  sub.mss^n.  The 
Iha  gave  him  t  J  understand  that  his  visit  was  tardy,  and  the  king  hum- 
bWreplicd  that  he  was  his  servant.  Neither  pipe  nor  coffee  was  pre- 
^Jted  to  him.  At  the  end  of  ten  minutes  of  silence,  ho  took  las  leave 
d  the  inquietude  of  his  soul  painted  on  his  countenance.  The  next  day 
tL  pasmshowedhun  more  attention,  sending  him  a horso  nchly  capar- 
led,  a  dress,  a  green  tent,  and  some  dishes  from  h.s  own  table.;' 

Re  nforcements  having  arrived  from  Egypt,  the  army  was  obliged  to 
delayTmarch  from  the%ant  of  provisions.  CaiUiaud  was  very  nnpa- 
Sent^  but  made  the  most  of  his  time  in  endeavoring  to  i«certain  from  the 
hi^abitants  whether  there  were  any  ancient  ruins  m  the  pruvuice  On 
the  1 9th  of  April,  being  in  the  pasha's  tent,  the  conversation  turned  upon 
il  nines  The  pasl^.  cxhibi!ed  a  large  diamond  which  his  lather  had 
fent  him,  and  asked  Cailliaud  in  what  country  such  stones  were  found 
Se  S  r  answered  that  all  the  diamond  mines  heretofore  discovered 
i  ere  situated  about  the  18th  parallel  of  latitude.  Ho  ook  occasion  to 
Tay  a  so,  that  in  order  to  discover  the  tvnie  diamond  soil  it  would  be  ad- 
vtSbTe  to  make  excursions  out  of  the  regular  track  of  the  army  and 
added  that  the  antiquarian  explorations  which  he  desired  to  make  in 
Shendy  might  bo  turned  to  good  account,  in  this  manner  After  the 
Xct  had  been  fully  explained,  the  pasha  stated  that  ^^^^^'^^J^ 
son  would  soon  commence,  the  army  would  not  ha  t  at  Shendy  but^o 
Cailliaud's  great  delight,  gave  him  permission  to  set  out  m  advance,  with 
a  sSescfrt.  He  Lifted,  however,  that  the  travelers  should  pass  for 
TuX  and  assume  Turkish  names,  giving  to  Cailliaud  the  naine  of  Murad 
ESiandtoM.LetorzecthatofAbdallahEl.Fakeer.  Whenthetwo 
conveldm  French,  the  natives  supposed  the  language  to  be  Turlash 
Zd'in  fact,  there  is  some  resemblance  in  the  sound  of  the  two  an- 
Ses),  while  their  Turkish  dresses,  their  bare  legs  their  long  beards, 
§^eir  si  Lven  heads,  and  their  tanned  complexions  made  the  disguise  com- 
;S  and  caused  them  to  be  taken  everywhere  for  good  Mussulmen 

Havnc.  received  firmans  from  the  pasha,  they  set  out  two  days  after- 
ward   and  after  passing  the  mouth  of  the  Atbara  (the  ancient  Asta. 
boras), Te  most  northern  tributary  of  the  Nile,  continued  their  jom-ney 
foi  two  days  and  then  crossed  to  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Nile  at  the 
'diagc  of  K^^^^         Here,  Cailliaud  had  already  passed  the  latitude 
a   lined  by  the  French  geographer,  D'Anville,  to  the  ancient  city  of 
Mero"    and  was  micertain  what  course  to  take.     After  sweeping    ho 
hor  zo;  ^  va^.  for  some  trace  of  ruins,  he  proceeded  southward  enter- 
L.  he  t^rSy  of  Mek  Nemr,  of  Shendy.    Their  appearance  called  to- 
ge°thei  a  crowd'of  people ;  the  envoys  sent  by  the  P-^a  to  bhendy  had 
followed  the  western  bank  of  the  Nile,  and  they  were  the  first  Tu  ks 
wh  ml  natives  had  ever  seen.  .^W  J-lged  it  prudent  to  ^^^^^^^ 
thov  were  only  a  little  in  advance  of  the  pasha's  army     Aftei  the  mhab 
tnts  had  reti^-ed,  Cailliaud  took  his  gmde  apai-t,  and  began  to  question 


OPIA. 

tor,  kuscd  it  above 
BubiniHsion.    The 
and  the  king  hum- 
lor  coffee  was  pre- 
]io  took  his  leave, 
ice.    The  next  day 
lorso  richly  capar- 
8  own  table." 
my  was  obliged  to 
lud  was  very  impa- 
ascertain  from  the 
tlie  province.    On 
rsation  turned  upon 
rhich  his  father  had 
stones  were  found, 
sretoforc  discovered 
lo  took  occasion  to 
soil,  it  would  bo  ad- 
:k  of  the  army,  and 
desired  to  make  in 
manner.    After  the 
hat  as  the  rainy  sea- 
b  at  Shcndy,  but,  to 
out  in  advance,  with 
elers  should  pasb  for 
d  the  name  of  Murad 
ceer.    "When  the  two 
iffuace  to  be  Turkish 
und  of  the  two  lan- 
[8,  their  long  beards, 
ade  the  disguise  corn- 
good  Mussuhnen. 
it  out  two  days  after- 
•a  (the  ancient  Asta- 
utinucd  their  jouniey 
k  of  the  Nile,  at  the 
y  passed  the  latitude 
o  the  ancient  city  of 
After  sweeping  the 
led  southward,  enter- 
appearance  called  to- 
pasha  to  Shendy  had 
were  the  first  Turks 
it  prudent  to  say  that 
uy.     After  the  inhab- 
iud  began  to  question 


DISCOVKRY    OF    MEROK. 


263 


him  concerning  what  ho  had  hoard  in  Horbor,  that  one  day's  journey 
north  of  Shendy  there  were  a  great  many  ttiraftrrU,  or  heaps  of  hewn 
stones.  The  latter,  supposing  that  the  traveler  was  sont  by  the  jijisha 
to  discover  hidden  treasures,  first  asked  him  whether,  if  ho  fjund  a  great 
quantity  of  gold,  he  would  give  him  a  little,  that  he  might  got  married. 
To  this  Cailliaud  consented,  and  ho  then  verified  the  statement,  adding 
that  the  tarabeela  were  only  four  or  five  leagues  distant ;  that  there  were 
a  hundred  of  them,  and  that  it  was  possible  to  climb  to  their  summits. 

Cailliaud  feared  that  these  tarabeela  were  simply  heaps  of  granite 
boulders,  such  as  are  scon  at  Assouan.  His  cxcitenu^nt  was  so  great  that 
he  could  not  sleep ;  rousing  his  party  at  one  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
much  to  tlieir  astonishment,  he  set  out.  Mek  Nemr  had  passed  along 
tlie  day  before,  on  his  return  to  Shendy ;  his  convoy  had  plundered  the 
inhabitants  of  the  villages  through  which  they  passed,  and  the  people 
were  awake  and  lamenting  over  their  loss.  Tlio  travelers  feared  a  re-_ 
prisal  under  cover  of  the  night,  and  did  not  consider  themselves  safe,  un- 
til the  dawn  appeared,  when  they  entered  an  open  desert  plain  three 
miles  in  length.  "  The  guide  then  announced  to  me  that  we  should  soon 
sec  the  tarabeela.  Imagine  the  joy  which  I  felt  on  beholding  a  crowd 
of  pyramids,  the  summits  of  which  were  splendidly  gilded  by  the  rays  of 
the  sun,  then  just  above  the  horizon !  Never  did  he  illumine  a  spectacle 
more  delightful  to  me  I  I  urged  on  my  dromedary ;  I  would  have  anni- 
hilated the  space  of  a  league  or  two  which  still  separated  me  from  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  capital  of  Ethiopia.  At  last,  I  arrived ;  my  first  aim 
was  to  mount  an  eminence  that  I  might  embnice  at  one  glance  the  whole 
extent  of  the  ruins.  I  remained  motionless  with  pleasure  and  admiration 
at  the  sight  of  this  imposing  spectacle.  I  then  ascended  the  most  ele- 
vated of  the  monuments.  There,  wishing  to  pay  a  tribute  of  homage  to 
the  illustrious  geographer  whose  genius  had  directed  my  steps,  I  carved 
upon  the  stone  the  name  of  D'Aiiville.  Again  casting  my  eyes  around 
me,  I  discovered  in  the  west  a  second  group  of  pyramids,  and,  a  short 
distance  from  the  river,  a  vast  space  covered  with  ruins  and  rubbish,  an- 
nouncing the  situation  of  the  ancient  city.  When  the  rest  of  my  party 
arrived,  I  descended  to  examine  the  little  sanctuaries  attached  to  the 
tombs ;  silence  and  solitude  prevailed  everywhere.  I  saw,  to  my  great 
regret,  the  impossibility  of  establishing  my  residence  in  one  of  these  fu- 
nereal chambers,  and  therefore  sought  an  abode  in  the  little  village  of 
Assour,  near  the  river.  In  repairing  thither,  I  passed  among  the  other 
pyramids  and  the  ruins  which  I  had  seen,  and  distinguished  there  the 
remains  of  several  temples,  with  an  avenue  adorned  with  colossal  rams." 

Cailliaud  found  that  the  letters  of  the  pasha  were  not  respected  by 
the  chiefs  of  the  village.  He  therefore  adopted  the  more  prudent  plan 
of  inviting  them  to  dinner,  and  distributing  some  beads  and  other  trink- 
ets among  the  people.  This  course  soon  established  him  in  their  good 
graces,  and  he  was  allowed  to  continue  his  explorations  undisturbed, 
during  the  fourteen  days  which  intervened  before  the  arrival  of  the 


i 


264 


OAILLIAUD'S    JOUUNKY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 


t 


I 


imHlia  aiul  his  army.    The  group  of  pyramuls  wliicli  lie  had  first  soen  be- 
longed  to  the  necropolis  of  tho  ancient  city.    They  stand  upon  a  low 
ridge  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  of  Mogran.    They  are  all  huilt  of  fine 
red  sandstone,  in  regular  courses  of  masonry,  the  spaces  of  which  are  not 
filled,  or  cased,  as  in  tho  Egyptian  pyrannds,  except  at  the  corners,  which 
rre  covered  with  a  narrow  hem,  or  molding.    The  stones  arc  about 
i.ighteen  inches  high,  and  tho  recession  of  each  course  vanes  from  two 
to  four  inches,  so  that  tho  height  of  the  structure  is  always  much  greater 
than  the  breadth  of  tho  base.    A  peculiarity  of  these  pyramids  is,  that 
tho  sides  arc  not  straight  but  curved  line:,  of  different  degrees  of  convex- 
ity  and  tho  breadth  of  the  courses  of  stone  is  adjusted  with  the  utmost 
nicety,  to  produce  this  fcrm.    The  l.vrgest  of  these  pyramids  has  a  base 
of  fifty-eight,  with  an  elevation  of  eighty-five  feet.    There  are  twenty-ono 
in  all,  besides  tho  substructures  of  sixteen  others.  To  the  east  are  twenty 
others,  more  or  less  ruined,  and  on  the  plain  nearer  the  Nile,  the  romams 
of  a  group  of  forty-six,  some  of  which  are  very  small,  having  bases  of 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet.    The  sites  of  one  hundred  and  ninety-six 
pyramids,  in  all,  have  been  discovered.    Of  this  city,  nothing  remams 
except  mounds  of  pottery  and  broken  bricks,  the  foundations  of  stono 
walls,  fragments  of  columns  and  statues,  and  occasionally  tho  outlmes  of 
temples  and  other  public  edifices,  covering  an  extent  of  nearly  two  miles. 
From  the  more  recent  researches  of  Lepsius,  the  age  of  these  rums  is 
fixed  at  from  two  thousand  to  twenty-two  hundred  years. 

During  his  stay,  Cailliaud  was  not  without  considerable  anxiety  for 
tho  safety  of  his  party.  Wishing  to  forward  news  of  his  discoveries  to 
Europe,  he  determined  to  send  one  of  his  Arabs  to  Egypt,  with  letters, 
and  engaged  one  of  the  men  of  Assour  to  accompany  him  as  far  as  the 
army  On  the  return  of  the  latter  he  learned  that  his  messenger  had 
been  waylaid  and  robbed  by  the  country  people,  who  ^lad  destroyed  all 
the  letters.  The  shekh  of  a  neighboring  village,  Avho  had  become  his 
friend,  informed  him  that  the  soldiers  of  Mek  Nemr  intended  to  seize 
him,  and  offered  him  an  asylum  in  his  own  house.  But  tho  very  next 
day,  fortunately,  tho  first  of  the  pasha's  boats  appeared  on  the  Nde,  an- 
nouncing the  immediate  approach  of  the  Egyptian  army,  which  amved 
two  days  afterward,  on  the  8th  of  May.  Cailliaud  was  now  safe,  and 
having  completed  his  drawings  and  measurements,  he  loUowed  the 
troops,  and  arrived  next  day  at  Shendy.  On  crossing  the  Nile  to  visit 
the  pasha,  who  was  encamped  upon  the  western  bank,  he  was  informed 
by  the  latter  that  the  army  would  continue  its  march  to  Sennaar— a  cir- 
cumstance which  obliged  him  to  postpone  an  excursion  to  the  valleys 
of  Mesowurat  and  Naga,  south-east  of  Shendy,  where,  he  was  informed, 
there  were  manv  ruined  temples.  ,     , . 

On  the  15tli"of  May,  the  king  of  Shyghcea  came  to  render  his  m\y 
mission  to  the  pasha.  He  expressed  a  desire  to  enter  a  military  life,  and 
was  accordingly  attached  to  the  army,  at  the  head  of  four  hundred  men 
of  his  tribe.    The  same  dav  the  camp  was  broken  up,  and  the  army 


mmtmiim'it 


iiioriA. 

Iio  lind  first  Hocn  bo- 

loy  stand  ujwn  a  low 

y  nro  all  built  of  fino 

)uceM  of  which  ure  not 

»t  the  corners,  which 

lio  stones  arc  about 

ursc  varies  from  two 

always  much  greater 

CSC  ])yrunu(ls  is,  that 

nt  degrees  of  convex* 

sted  with  the  utmost 

pyramids  has  a  base 

There  are  twenty-ono 

To  the  east  are  twenty 

■  the  Nile,  the  remains 

small,  having  bases  of 

ndred  and  ninett/-aix 

city,  nothing  remains 

foundations  of  stone 

ionally  the  outlines  of 

nt  of  nearly  two  miles. 

age  of  these  ruins  is 

1  years. 

nsiderable  anxiety  for 
8  of  his  discoveries  to 
to  Egypt,  with  letters, 
ipany  him  as  far  as  the 
lat  his  messenger  had 
who  'lad  destroyed  all 
who  had  become  his 
enir  intended  to  seize 
'..  But  the  very  next 
)eared  on  the  Nile,  an- 
in  army,  Avhich  arrived 
lud  was  now  safe,  and 
onts,  he  followed  the 
issing  the  Nile  to  visit 
)ank,  he  was  infonned 
irch  to  Senna^r — a  cir- 
Dursion  to  the  valleys 
here,  he  was  informed, 

lame  to  render  his  sub- 
iter  a  military  life,  and 
i  of  four  hundred  men 
icn  up,  and  the  army 


CROSSING   THE   WHITE   NILE. 


265 


commenced  its  march  for  Ilalfay  and  Scnnaur.  As  the  disposition  of 
the  inhabitants  of  those  countries  was  not  known,  distributions  of  am- 
mutiition  were  made,  mid  every  one  required  to  be  on  the  alert.  The 
journey  was  very  painful  and  fatiguing ;  there  wore  not  cnoijgh  bag- 
gage-camels to  carry  a  sufficient  supply  of  grain,  and  as  the  country  was 
thinly  inhabited,  both  men  and  beasts  suffered  severely  from  hunger. 
Many  camels  perished;  the  soldiers  were  reduced  to  eating  the  nuts  of 
the  doum-palm,  and  ])illage  became  the  oidcr  of  the  day.  After  ten 
days  the  army  arrived  opposite  Ilalfay,  the  king  of  which  had  announced 
his  submission  two  days  beforehand.  Cailliaud  crossed  the  Nile  in  a 
canoe  and  visited  the  town,  which  he  found  almost  deserted.  He  had 
great  difficulty  in  procuring  provisions,  as  the  inhabitants  had  concealed 
their  supplies.  Finding  it  impossible  to  return  the  same  night,  he  was 
obliged  to  ask  the  kuig's  hospitality,  which  was  cheerfully  extended 
to  him. 

It  Avas  Ismail  Pasha's  intention  to  irake  a  halt  at  Ilalfay,  but  on  ar- 
rivmg  there  he  learned  that  Sennaar  was  in  a  state  of  revolution,  the 
legitimate  king,  who  had  been  held  captive  for  a  long  time  by  two 
usurpers,  having  succeeded  in  establishing  a  party,  while  a  third  usurper, 
who  had  arisen,  was  hostile  to  both.  These  intestine  troubles  seemed 
to  the  pasha  to  furnish  a  favorable  opportunity  for  the  accomplishment 
of  his  own  plans,  and  he  hastened  to  profit  by  it.  Continuing  the 
march,  the  army  reached  the  confluence  of  the  Blue  and  White  Niles 
on  the  27th,  and  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  latter,  at  a  place  called 
Omdurman,  near  a  wood  of  largo  acacias.  Here  commenced  the  king- 
doms of  Sennaar  on  the  eastern  bank,  and  of  Kordofan,  on  the  western. 
Many  of  the  slaves,  who  were  natives  of  the  latter  country,  and  of  Dar- 
Fur,  which  lies  beyond  it,  took  occasion  to  escape  from  the  fatigues  and 
brutal  treatment  to  which  they  had  been  subjected :  among  them  was 
one  which  Cailliaud  had  purchased  in  Berber  for  the  moderate  price  of 
seventy-five  francs. 

The  passage  of  the  river  commenced  on  the  following  day.  There 
were  only  five  small  boats  to  be  had,  which  were  employed  to  transport 
the  artillery,  baggage,  and  ammunition.  The  prospect  of  approaching 
battle,  pillage,  and  booty,  and  the  confidence  of  victory  with  which  their 
previous  successes  had  inspired  them,  excited  the  soldiers  to  the  highest 
pitch.  "During  three  days,  the  surface  of  the  river  was  covered  with 
camels,  horses,  Turks,  and  Arabs,  who  cast  themselves  into  it,  some  sup- 
porting themselves  by  empty  jars,  or  pieces  of  wood,  others  clinging  to 
the  tai'j  of  horses,  or  the  humps  of  camels.  In  this  manner  passed  the 
army,  consisting,  Avith  the  slaves,  of  five  thousand  five  hundred  men,  and 
three  thousand  camels  and  horses.  It  would  be  difiicult  to  describe  the 
tumult,  the  confusion,  the  cries  of  men  and  beasts,  and  the  sound  of  the 
blows  with  which  the  poor  beasts  were  forced  into  the  flood :  one  would 
have  said  that  it  was  a  retreating  host,  pursued  Math  the  sword,  rather 
than  troops  rushing  confidently  to  victory.    Unhappily,  this  excessive 


■MNU 


266 


CAILLIAUD'3   JOUUNEY   TO    ETHIOPIA 


7x'!il  oopasioniMl  the  loss  of  tliirty  men,  nnd  ono  hundred  and  fifty  cornels 
and  horses." 

Tlic  point  of  land  hctwccn  the  two  rivers,  forming  tho  northern  ex- 
tremity of  tho  peninsula  of  Senniiiir,  was  eiilied  Ran  (Cape)  el-Klutrtoum, 
Haifa  league  to  the  eastward,  on  tho  bank  of  the  IJlue  Nile,  were  tho 
first  habitations  of  SenniiAr.*  At  the  pight  of  the  army  tho  inhabitants 
took  to  flight.  Tho  embassadors  whom  the  pasha  had  sent  to  demand 
the  submission  of  those  who  held  the  reins  of  government,  returned 
with  tho  information  that  a  largo  army  had  eollected  near  the  capital, 
with  several  pieces  of  cannon  ;  and  tho  kings  had  replied  that  they  woiild 
wait  to  see  the  pasha's  army  before  they  decided  what  they  would  do. 
The  order  was  given  to  continue  tho  march,  but  as  Cailliaud  bad  heard 
at  Ilalfliy  that  there  were  ruins  at  a  place  called  Sobah,  on  the  Blue 
Nile,  ho  applied  to  the  pasha  for  a  boat  to  ascend  the  river,  while  M. 
Letorzec  followed  the  army  with  tho  camels  and  baggage. 

Cailliaud  set  sail  on  the  Ist  of  June,  and  arrived  next  day  at  a  town 
called  El-Eylfun,  near  Sobah.  At  his  appearance,  a  crowd  of  people 
collected,  astonished  at  his  Osmanli  costume,  which  they  had  never  be- 
fore seen.  In  the  habit  of  touching  all  that  they  saw,  they  passed  their 
hands  over  his  garments ;  the  shawl  and  shoes  attracted  them,  especially 
the  latter,  with  tho  red  color  of  which  they  w^ere  delighted.  After 
having  thus  examined  him  they  conducted  him  to  the  shekh,  where  a 
second  inspection  took  place.  The  p'^oVh,  far  from  suspecting  that  he 
Avas  a  Christian,  received  him  in  the  mosque.  He  asked  many  questions 
concerning  the  Egyptian  army,  but  as  Cailliaud  was  very  desirous  of 
visiting  the  ruins,  he  gave  him  a  Spanish  dollar,  and  received  a  horse 
and  guide.  The  shekh  informed  him  that  ho  had  done  well  to  travel  in 
a  boat,  for  the  general  opinion  in  the  country  was  that  the  pasha's  army 
would  be  cut  to  pieces  at  Senna&r,  where  there  wore  four  large  cannon, 
and  eight  or  ten  thousand  warriors.  Sobah  was  reached  after  a  ride  of 
an  hour  and  a  half,  and  the  traveler  saw  distinctly  that  an  ancient  city 
had  once  stood  there ;  but,  to  his  great  mortification,  nothing  was  to  bo 
found  except  heaps  of  earth  and  gravel — not  a  single  stone  of  any  size, 
nor  the  slightest  trace  of  a  wall.  The  only  object,  which  gave  any  evi- 
dence of  tho  ancient  character  of  the  place,  was  a  mutilated  ram-headed 
sphinx,  about  five  feet  in  length. 

During  the  following  week  the  wind  was  adverse,  and  the  voyage 
was  very  slow  and  tiresome,  but  the  desire  of  ascertaining  the  points  of 
junction  of  tho  Kahad  and  the  Dender,  Abyssinian  tributaries  of  the 
Blue  Nile,  induced  Cailliaud  to  continue  his  journey  by  water.  He  had 
learned,  from  a  courier,  that  the  pasha's  army  was  marching  forward 
without  resistance,  and  soon  afterward  heard  that  tho  king  of  Senna&r 

♦  Now  the  city  of  Khartoum,  a  pluco  of  from  thirty  to  forty  thousand  ii^h:;bllant8, 
which  has  been  built  up  entirely  under  tho  Egyptian  domination.  It  has  become  tho 
great  trading  mart  of  eastern  Soudan,  and  its  riBO  has  therefore  been  tho  ruin  of  both 
Bhondy  and  Sennadr.— B.  T. 


i 


[lOPIA 

Ircd  and  fifty  caniels 

ing  the  northern  ex- 
(Capc)  elrKhartoum. 
llluo  Nile,  were  the 
army  the  inhabitants 
had  sent  to  demand 
;ovemment,  retunied 
!tod  near  the  capital, 
plied  that  they  would 
what  they  would  do. 
Cailliaud  had  heard 
.  Sobah,  on  the  Blue 
id  the  river,  while  M. 
iggage. 

d  next  day  at  a  town 
e,  a  crowd  of  people 
[i  they  had  never  be- 
aw,  they  passed  their 
acted  them,  especially 
ere  delighted.    After 
,0  the  shekh,  where  a 
m  suspecting  that  he 
asked  many  questions 
was  very  desirous  of 
and  received  a  horse 
done  well  to  travel  in 
that  the  pasha's  army 
'ere  four  large  cannon, 
•cached  after  a  ride  of 
;ly  that  an  ancient  city 
ion,  nothing  was  to  bo 
ingle  stone  of  any  size, 
,,  which  gave  any  evi- 
mutilated  ram-headed 

I'crse,  and  the  voyage 
?rtaining  the  points  of 
nian  tributaries  of  the 
icy  by  water.  He  had 
was  marching  forward 
at  the  king  of  Senna4r 

forty  thousand  ii^hablUnts, 
ination.  It  has  become  the 
ofore  been  the  ruin  of  both 


I V."*'  ■ 


J 


r' 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


"  1^    12.2 


1^ 


it  1^  IIIIIM 


1.8 


11.25  ill  1.4   ■  1.6 


«r' 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


y 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/iCIVlH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


jRi— 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductlons  /  Instltut  Canadian  de  microreproductlons  historlques 


:^.__J.^IZI.:i^I^™."tf°**'''"^ 


.lyM^. 


SCENERY    ON    THE   BLUE    NILE. 


267 


had  submitted  quietly ;  that  ho  had  come  in  great  state  to  visit  tlic 
pasha,  accompanied  by  hia  ministers,  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the 
capital,  and  an  escort  of  two  hundred  men  ;  that  he  and  the  pasha  had 
exchanged   gifts,  and  the  latter  had  taken  possession  of  the  capital. 
After  passing  the  mouth  of  the  Rahad,  Cailliaud,  on  the  12th,  reached 
the  village  of  Kourdkoyleh,  where  the  scenery  began  to  assume  a  very 
different  aspect.     "At  the  dawn  of  day,"  says  he,  "I  endeavored  to 
enter  the  forest  of  Kourdkeyleh  to  surprise  some  wild  animals.    I  saw 
there  many  monkeys,  the  fresh  tracks  of  the  elephants,  guinea  fowls, 
and  birds  of  brilliant  plumage,  which  uttered  harsh  cries.    Since  the 
Pharaohs,  perhaps,  no  bark  had  spread  its  sail  on  the  river  which  I 
navigated,  and  it  was  not  without  a  keen  satisfaction  that  I  saw  mine 
advancing  before  all  others,  fighting  with  the  wmds  m  quarters  where 
the  gaze  of  a  European  had  never  before  penetrated.    I  felt  an  invol- 
untary emotion  in  contemplating  those  trees,  conquerors  of  Time,  which 
age  had  not  bent ;  those  thick  woods,  whose  eternal  foliage  never 
spread  for  the  traveler  a  protecting  shade  against  the  burning  sun; 
those  inaccessible  thickets  where  the  shepherd  never  led  his  flocks. 
Savage  nature  alone  breathed  amid  this  constantly  renewed  vegetation ; 
the  acacias,  the  nebbuks,  the  dead  trees  themselves,  were  enlaced  in  the 
inextricable  convolutions  of  the  parasitic  \ines,  thus  forming  a  compact 
mass  of  verdure,  through  which  a  few  almost  impracticable  paths  allowed 
the  Hght  to  enter.    The  shock  of  our  oars  and  the  sound  of  the  water 
against  our  bark  alarmed  the  inhabitants  of  the  flood ;  the  crocodiles 
forsook  the  solitary  shores,  and  the  frightened  hippopotami,  swimming 
in  herds  around  us,  seemed  by  their  bellowngs  to  reproach  us   for 
havmg  iivaded  their  domain.    The  river  was  bordered  with  the  bam- 
boo, the  ebony,  and  other  new  and  precious  woods;  we  saw  trees, 
plants,  insects,  and  shells  of  unknown  kinds,  and  rejoiced  in  the  dis- 
tuictive,  yet  hitherto  unknown  physiognomy  of  this  Anrgin  soil." 

The  traveler  passed  the  mouth  of  the  River  Dender,  and  continued 
slowly  to  advance  until  the  21st,  when,  havmg  arrived  within  three 
leagues  of  Sennaar,  ho  finished  the  journey  by  land.  The  army  had 
already  been  encamped  there  eight  days.  M.  Letorzec  and  the  rest  of 
the  party  were  comfortably  established.  Cailliaud  immediately  called 
upon  the  pasha,  whom  he  found  greatly  elated  with  his  rapid  successes. 
He  at  once  began  to  speak  of  Fazogl  and  its  rich  mines  of  gold,  believ- 
ing that  it  was  in  his  power  to  add  still  richer  and  more  fertile  regions 
to  those  which  he  had  already  brought  under  the  Egyptian  rule.  Mean- 
while, it  was  necessary  first  to  arrange  the  internal  affairs  of  Sennaar. 
King  Bady,  the  legitimate  monarch,  was  reinstated,  and  named  shekh 
of  the  kingdom  ;  one  of  the  two  usurpers  had  fled  into  Abyssinia,  after 
having  treacherously  murdered  the  other.  Cailliaud  employed  his  tune 
in  seeking  for  ancient  remains,  and  having  heard  that  there  was  a  great 
figure  in  stone  at  Djebel-Mouyl,  seven  leagues  from  Sonnadr,  persuaded 
the  pasha  to  furnish  him  with  an  escort  for  a  journey  thither.     He 


268 


CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 


found,  however,  that  this  statue  was  nothing  more  than  a  heap  of  rough 
granite  boulders,  which  bore  a  faint  resemblance  to  a  human  figure. 

"  On  the  22d  of  July,"  says  Cailliaud,  "  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  former 
king,  Bady.    I  found  him  seated  on  a  stool,  in  one  of  the  courts  of  his 
residence,  where  he  enjoyed  the  fresh  air,  with  his  ministers  and  some 
persons  of  his  suite  at  his  side.    He  ordered  a  straw  mat  to  be  brought, 
on  which  I  placed  myself.    lie  was  dressed  in  a  broad  shirt  of  ivhito 
linen ;  his  legs  were  bare,  his  feet  covered  Avith  long  sandals,  and  the 
royal  cap  upon  his  head.    A  servant  brought  him  a  pipe  oi  the  com- 
monest kind  used  in  the  country.     Bady  is  a  man  of  about  forty  yeara 
old,  of  middling  height,  robust,  of  an  agreeable  figr.re,  with  crisp  hair 
and  a  coppery  complexion,  which  is  that  of  the  race  of  Foungi,  to  which 
he  belongs.    He  asked  mo  what  difference  I  found  between  my  country 
and  his,  believing  me  to  be  from  Constantinople,  and  I  drew  a  picture 
which  threw  his  own  capital  quite  into  the  shade.     '  At  present,'  Bwd 
he,  '  Sennaar  is  no  longer  to  be  recognized ;  it  is  very  different  from 
what  it  was  in  the  times  of  my  ancestors.'    Then,  with  a  visible  emotion, 
he  bade  me  see  all  aromid  him  the  ruins  of  the  palace  of  his  father, 
which  still  overlooks  the  whole  city.     'Tlieso  ruins,'  said  he,  'are  the 
remains  of  the  power  of  my  ancestors,  the  limits  of  whose  kingdom 
once  reached  to  the  confines  of  Dongola.'    Having  nothing  worthy  of 
his  rank  to  offer  him,  I  gave  him  one  of  my  boxes  of  oxygenated 
matches.    When  he  saw  one  of  them  ignite  m  the  sulphuric  acid,  he 
called  upon  the  name  cf  the  Prophet,  and  exhibited  the  greatest  sur- 
prise." ,  . 

In  the  beginning  of  August,  the  pasha,  m  a  conversation  with  LaU- 
liaud,  praised  the  climate  of  Sennaar,  and  declared  that  the  contrary 
accounts  given  bv  Bruce  were  totally  false.    Only  one  month  of  the 
rainy  season  had  passed ;  the  rain  had  not  been  frequent  nor  the  heat 
excessive,  and  there  was  no  sickness  among  the  troops.     "  The  rains 
cease  at  the  end  of  September.    The  soil,  profoundly  saturated,  retains 
hero  and  there  pools  of  stagnant  water,  which,  fermentmg  by  the  sud- 
den action  of  the  heat,  exhale  putrid  miasma.    These,  jomed  to  the  not 
less  pernicious  vapors  of  the  earth,  vitiate  the  air,  and  engender  i.  host 
of  maladies ;  the  fevers,  above  all,  prevail  until  January.     At  the  ap- 
proach of  this  disastrous  season,  the  inhabitants  of  the  banks  of  the 
river  hasten  to  desert  the  villages  with  their  beasts,  and  to  fly  from  the 
pestiferous  atmosphere."    Twenty  days  after  this  conversation  with  the 
pasha,  malignant  fevers,  dysenteries,  and  affections  of  the  liver,  threat- 
ening an  epidemic,  prevailed  among  the  troops.    M.  Letorzec,  the  in- 
terpreter, and  two  of  CailUaud's  Arab  servants,  became  very  ill,  and  six 
of  the  Greek  and  Italian  physicians  of  the  army  died.     "  By  the  25th 
of  September,  there  were  six  hundred  deaths  and  two  thousand  sick,  m 
an  array  of  three  thousand  men,  and  the  number  increased  every  day. 
During  the  whole  campaign,  the  army  had  never  before  been  in  so 
pitiable  a  condition.    The  pasha,  m  despair,  drew  up  an  account  of  hia 


OPIA. 

lun  aheap  of  rough 
human  figure, 
visit  to  the  former 
of  the  courts  of  hia 
luiuisters  and  some 
mat  to  be  brought, 
oad  shirt  of  ivhito 
ig  sandals,  and  the 
A  pipe  oi  the  com- 
f  about  forty  years 
".re,  with  crisp  hair 
of  Foungi,  to  which 
Btween  my  country 
id  I  drew  a  picture 

'  At  present,'  sjud 
very  different  from 
th  a  visible  emotion, 
lalace  of  his  father, 
),'  said  he, '  are  the 
of  whose  kingdom 

nothing  worthy  of 
xes  of  oxygenated 
)  sulphuric  acid,  he 
;ed  the  greatest  sur- 

iversation  with  Cail- 
i  that  the  contrary 
'  one  month  of  the 
queut  nor  the  heat 
roops.  "  The  rains 
ly  saturated,  retains 
nenting  by  the  sud- 
je,  joined  to  the  not 
nd  engender  ^  host 
iimary.  At  the  ap- 
of  the  banks  of  the 

and  to  fly  from  the 
onversation  with  the 

of  the  liver,  threat- 
M.  Letorzec,  the  in- 
arae  very  ill,  and  six 
lied.  "  By  the  25th 
ivo  thousand  sick,  in 
increased  every  day. 
r  before  been  in  so 
p  an  account  of  his 


.mesi&&Si^:a^ 


-■"^  '■-■'- 1— »»f 


Sk^: 


am 


MORTALITY    AT    SENNAAR. 


269 


fiituation,  and  sent  it  to  his  father.  The  soldiers  were  obliged  to  eat 
dourra  of  a  very  inferior  quality,  which  was  very  unwholesome  for  them ; 
destitute  of  clothes,  almost  half-naked,  they  slept  on  the  damp  earth ; 
there  were  neither  physicians  nor  medicine  of  the  proper  kind.  Horses 
and  camels  died  in  all  parts  of  the  city  and  its  environs,  and  the  police 
were  not  sufficiently  careful  to  remove  the  carcases,  which  soon  infected 
the  air.  All  these  causes  contributed  to  augment  the  number  and  in- 
tensity of  the  diseases." 

Ibrahim  Pasha  arrived  at  Scnnadr  on  the  night  of  the  22d  of  Oc- 
tober, to  the  surprise  of  his  brother,  who  did  not  expect  him  so  soon. 
Fearing  the  contagion  with  which  the  city  was  infected,  he  only  remained 
there  two  hours,  and  encamped  about  a  league  to  the  southward.  The 
arrival  of  this  prince,  who  was  a  general  favorite,  rallied  the  spirits  of 
the  troops.  He  hastened  to  supply  the  sick  with  rice,  flour,  and  other 
articles  from  his  own  stores,  paid  the  troops  thoir  arrears,  and  furnished 
them  with  clothes.  His  physician  conceived  the  happy  idea  of  trans- 
porting the  sick  several  leagues  into  the  interior,  and  the  change  of  air, 
with  the  more  careful  treatment  which  they  experienced,  soon  produced 
a  rapid  diminution  of  their  number.  "  For  my  part,"  says  CaiUiaud,  "  I 
have  experienced  many  tribulations.  The  state  of  M.  Letorzec  and  my 
interpreter  gave  me  the  greatest  anxiety,  and  my  Arabs  were  devoured 
with  fever.  For  two  months,  I  had  been  obliged  to  take  care  of  all  the 
persons  who  were  attached  to  me,  attend  to  all  our  wants,  prepare  our 
food,  wash  my  own  clothes,  look  after  my  sick  camels,  and  "eek  in  all 
directions  for  the  necessaries  of  life.  "When  I  could  obtain  a  Uttle  wheat, 
paying  for  it  at  the  rate  of  a  franc  per  pound,  I  mixed  it  with  three 
parts  of  dourra,  and  made  cakes  which  served  us  instead  of  bread. 
None  of  the  natives  would  serve  us  at  any  price,  and  it  was  impossible 
to  find  other  domestics.  All  the  officers  of  the  army  were  in  the  same 
case.  My  interpreter  gave  me  the  greatest  trouble ;  he  became  insane, 
and  I  was  often  obliged  to  bind  him  fast  upon  his  bed.  This  state 
was  followed  by  complete  exhaustion,  and  the  unfortunate  man  at  last 
died." 

CaiUiaud  visited  Ibrahim  Pasha  soon  after  his  arrival.  He  was  very 
kindly  received  by  the  prince,  who,  after  the  traveler  had  expressed  to 
him  his  desire  to  explore  the  White  Nile,  and  to  penetrate  to  Bomou 
and  Timbuctoo,  sent  for  his  maps — a  fine  collection  of  which  he  carried 
with  him — and  explained  the  plan  of  his  campaign.  Ismail  Pasha,  with 
half  of  the  troops,  was  to  follow  the  course  of  the  Blue  Nile  as  far  as 
FazogI :  Ibrahim  advancing  toward  the  south-west,  would  reach  the 
White  Nile  somewhere  in  the  territories  of  the  Dinkas.  The  former, 
taming  westward,  was  to  visit  the  pretended  gold  mines  of  Gamamyl, 
and  then  proceed  in  the  same  direction,  where  the  abundant  rains  fur- 
nish a  number  of  wells  and  natural  cisterns.  Ibrahim  would  approach 
his  brother  until  the  junction  of  the  two  armies  should  take  place,  and 
they  would  return  northward  on  a  route  parallel  to  the  two  rivers.     Af- 


^ 

w 


i 


CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 


1 


270 

tcr  this  was  accomplishca,  Ibrahim's  magnificent  plan  was  to  explore  the 
Wh  e  Nile  with  well-armed  barks  and  canoes,  to  its  vefy  sources  If 
the  river  hould  communicato  with  the  Niger,  the  fleet  would  enter  the 
rtc"  tram;  otherwise  it  would  return,  and  after  bemg  remforced 
would  march  upon  Kordofan,  Dar-Fur  and  Bornou,  and  return  to  Egypt 
b  V  w  W  TripoU.  Such  was  the  ambitious  plan  of  the  avenger  of  M  .cca, 
anVth'e  conqueror  of  the  Wahabees;  but  it  was  not  destmed  to  be  car. 

""V^eVo'^ptt  of  explormg  the  mite  NUe  induced  CaUliaud  to  apply 
tolmaifpasha  to  accompany  hisbrother  Ibrahim,  but  the  pashaobjected 

to  t  on  account  of  his  desire  that  the  traveler  should  examme  the  gold 
to  It  «»  ~"  J       ^^^  to  i„auce  him  to  remain,  he  offered  hmi 

rr  ortrar^d  A-  ■«>  W-  >.« .«.,.  —<•  *« -^^^^^^^at 

added  that  he  also  intended  to  make  a  campmgn  on  the  White  NUe,  at 
a  later  day  Relying  on  these  promises,  CaiUiaud  decided  to  followhim. 
On  the  5th  of  December,  Ibrahim  Pasha  set  out  for  the  country  of  the 
Dto  "?th  an  army  of  fifteen  hmidred  men.  The  expedition  of  Ismail 
watt?'coi  ist  of  fiftJen  hundred  ;  as  many  more,  the  half  of  whom  were 
n  were  left  at  Sonnaar.  CaiUiaud  was  greatly  embarrassed  by  the  want 
of  slnants.  Some  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  had  promised  to  go 
with  hCbut  on  the  day  of  his  departure,  they  were  not  to  be  fovmd 
In  ad2n  to  this,  the  man  who  had  charge  of  his  camels,  ran  off  with 
Lr  oflhem,  but  the  loss  was  made  good  by  Ismail  Pasha,  who  presented 

'""l^e  palhtlet^^^^^^^^     on  the  6th,  and  commenced  his  march  up  the 
western  bank  of  the  Blue  NUe.    The  country  became  more  rough  and 
Tvaras  they  approached  the  mountains  of  Fazogl,  the  vegetation  was 
m^rfdeLtYnd'the  journey  more  diflicult  and  fatiguing     On  the  after- 
Ton  of  th;  11th,  "while  we  were  traversing  a  district  covered  with 
Trees  partly  dead,  and  thickets  of  vines  and  brush-wood  half  dry  a  con- 
flagraSn  broke  ;ut,  spreading  terror  through  the  ^^-^^f  ^.-^^^^J^^^^^^^ 
of  which  a  strong  north-west  wmd  drove  the  flames.    Nothing  was  heard 
burconfused  crifs;  the  disorder  was  at  its  height;  the  dispute  was,  who 
luld  save  himself  most  speedily ;  the  frightened  c^^^^  -  ^lY^ 
carding  the  voices  of  their  masters,  broke  into  a  gallop,  cast  off  their 
fLslnd  often  blindly  ran  to  seek  their  own  destruction.    It  was  not 
^^hout  trembling  that  I  «*w  myself  obUged  to  pass  this  gulf^f  A^^ 
which  soon  extended  over  a  distance  of  half  a  league.    Our  first  idea 
w    trhenaL 

Tat  it  was  entirely  the  fimlt  of  some  stragglers  of  tl-J^^^^X 
li<rhtin2  their  pipes,  .  aused  themselves  with  ignitmg  the  trees.  Ihe 
S  fenrwer'e  r;peated  from  day  to  day,  and  the  P-^a  did  not  d„e 
to  punish  the  culprits,  on  account  of  the  ^-'^--^^  rj%^l'^^  ^^^ 
There  had  been  no  distribution  of  grain  smce  leavmg  Sennaar,  and  m 
^r  to  l^eep  themselves_  W  .arvin^^^^^ 


lagc. 


to  keen  themselves  irora  »i,aiv«"B,  "»*'  " .,   -, 

»  Suhe  villages  which  we  saw,"  says  CaiUiaud,  "  were  mercilessly 


PIA, 

as  to  explore  the 
vefy  sources.    If 

would  enter  the 
being  reinforced, 
d  return  to  Egypt 
avenger  of  Mocca, 
estinod  to  be  car- 

Cailliaud  to  apply 
the  pasha  objected 

examine  the  gold 
in,  he  offered  him 
the  Blue  Nile,  and 
the  White  Nile,  at 
idcd  to  follow  him. 
the  country  of  the 
xpedition  of  Ismail 
half  of  whom  were 
rassed  by  the  want 
lad  promised  to  go 
re  not  to  be  found, 
amels,  ran  off  with 
isha,  who  presented 

id  his  march  up  the 
ne  more  rough  and 

the  vegetation  was 
iiing.  On  the  after- 
strict  •  covered  with 
ood  half  dry,  a  con- 
my,  across  the  track 

Nothing  was  heard 
;he  dispute  was,  who 
;amels  no  longer  re- 
;allop,  cast  off  their 
uction.  It  was  not 
ss  this  gulf  of  fire, 
rue.  Our  first  idea 
I  fire,  but  we  learned 
r  the  army,  who,  in 
ng  the  trees."  The 
3  pasha  did  not  dare 
spirit  of  the  troops, 
ing  Sennaar,  and  in 
•8  were  driven  to  pil- 
i,  "  were  mercilessly 


THEY  ENTEB  THE  NEGRO  COUNTRY. 


271 


plundered  by  the  troops,  and  I  was  obliged  to  follow  their  cxanijjle  in 
order  to  obtain  a  little  dourra,  some  fowls,  the  fruit  of  the  baobub,  and 
the  fresh  pods  of  the  tamarind — the  only  things  loll  behind  by  the  uihab- 
itants,  who  fled  at  our  approach." 

On  the  17th,  after  passing  throug|^a  region  abounding  in  wild  ele- 
phants and  giraffes,  they  reached  a  village  called  El-Kerubeen,  a  dfpi'iid- 
ency  of  Sennaar,  situated  at  the  commencement  of  the  mountains.  The 
village  is  bnilt  in  a  group  of  granite  hills,  from  six  to  eight  hundred  fi-ct 
high.  Ibrahim  Pasha  was  at  this  time  encamped  four  or  five  mili's  fur- 
ther to  the  west.  Cailliaud,  who  went  to  visit  him,  found  him  laboring 
under  an  attack  of  dysentery,  and  verj-  much  dejected.  He  said  to  his 
brother  Ismail,  who  was  present,  that  if  he  did  not  find  himself  better  in 
a  few  days,  ho  would  return  to  Egyjit.  "  Thus  Avas  dissipated,  as  I  could 
plainly  see,  the  splendid  plan  of  u  a  oyage  up  the  White  Nile,  and  into 
the  interior  of  Africa !  In  the  evening  I  returned  to  my  tent  with  I*rinco 
Ismail,  who  obliged  me  to  dine  with  hun  every  day.  I  Avas  the  only 
stranger  who  had  accompanied  him  in  his  last  campaign ;  I  only  could 
write  and  make  knou'n  his  exploits  in  Europe ;  and  I  could  see  that  he 
was  as  ambitious  of  glory,  as  are  the  Turks  ordinarily."  On  the  same 
day,  envoys  arrived  from  the  King  of  Fazogl,  to  announce  that  he  was 
ready  to  give  in  his  submission.  There  then  only  remained  the  Pagan 
negroes  to  be  conquered,  whom  the  pasha  designed  to  capture  and  cany 
off  for  slaves. 

As  the  army  approached  Fazogl  the  country  became  more  densely 
wooded,  and  it  was  a  matter  of  great  difliculty  to  pass  through  the 
forests  of  thorny  mimosas.  After  two  days  they  reached  a  group  of 
mountains  called  Agady,  on  the  summit  of  one  of  which  was  a  negro 
village.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  had  fled  during  the  night ;  the  re- 
mainder were  called  upon  to  pay  tribute,  which  they  refused,  saying  the 
pasha  might  do  what  he  pleased  with  them.  The  troops  Avere  eager  for 
an  attack,  and  the  order  Avas  at  once  given.  Three  hundred  men 
mounted  to  the  village,  which  became  the  scene  of  fire,  slaughter,  and 
pillage.  One  hundred  and  seventy  negroes,  mostly  women,  Avere  taken 
prisoners,  and  conducted  to  the  rear  of  the  pasha's  tents,  with  yokes 
of  wood  around  their  necks. 

On  the  22d,  after  a  difficult  march  of  eight  hours  through  the  woods, 
the  expedition  reached  the  mountains  of  Kilgou,  where  there  was  an- 
other large  negro  village.  "  Ismail  ordered  the  advance-guard  to  march 
rapidly  upon  the  place,  surprise  the  inhabitants,  and  prevent  their  flight. 
This  order  was  promptly  executed ;  the  rocks  were  scaled,  and  a  large 
body  of  negroes  surrounded,  who,  nevertheless,  defended  themselves 
Awith  unexpected  obstinacy.  The  troops  had  spread  their  lines  in  climb- 
ing the  hill,  in  order  to  surround  as  large  a  number  as  possible.  But 
soon  the  difficulties  of  the  ground  broke  up  the  order  of  march  ;  they 
could  not  keep  their  footing  on  the  masses  of  slippery  granite  which 
barred  their  path.    Finally,  taking  off  their  slippers,  which  they  stuck 


r 


■■i.if.ija~ii    lltT*"^ 


\0m~  ■'^iwiT"  -■■' 


|i 


272  CAILLIAUD'S    JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 

into  their  belts,  they  rcachcHl  the  first  hi.ts,  wl.orc  they  found  several 
womo  ,     ho  refused  to  follow  them,  and  were  killed.     The  men,  on  the 
umu^it  of  tho  mountams,  rolled  down  masses  of  stone  and  ogs  ot  wood 
u,on  their  enemies.    They  dashed  hither  m>d  thither  with  surpnsmg 
agility.    The  Turks  compared  them  to  >nrds,  for  the.r  feet  hardly  seemed 
to%olhtho  surface  of  the  rocks.    Many  of  them    -rlcd  their  lances 
fro,n  behind  trees  or  masses  of  granite,  and  pierced  the  first  tro«^^^^^^^ 
ascended  the  hill.     Meanwhile  the  pasha,  tired  of  the  prolonged  re- 
sistunce,  mounted  the  hUl  with  seven  of  his  Mamelukes  ^^f^^^^^^ 
banians  but  soon  had  reason  to  repent  his  unprudencc:  the  negroes 
Bi2e  k  sallied  out  of  their  retreat,  and  hurled  their  lances  killing  one 
of  the  Mamelukes.    After  firing  a  volley  into  them,  the  pasha  re  urned 
to  the  camp.    By  this  time  the  negroes  had  cast  away  all  their  lances 
and  sought  safety  in  flight.     One  fourth  of  them  escaped,  and  the  rest 
were  taken.    In  this  aifair  the  pasha  had  twelve  men  billed  and  lorty 
wounded ;  of  the  negroes  one  hundred  and  eighty  were  killed,  and  five 
Wred^d  seventy-five  taken  prisoners.    The  latter  had  crisp  ha.r 
thick  lips,  and  prominent  cheek-bones;  a  few  of  them  had  flat  noses. 
S    n'n  'wore  o'nly  a  piece  of  goat-skin  tied  ai^und  the  louis  -d  the 
women  a  piece  of  cotton  which  reached  to  the  ^^^'<^ ^'^^J^^^^ 
There  were  none  among  them  who  understood  Ai^bic.    The  pasha  al- 
lowed me  to  take  two  who  appeared  intelligent  and  good-tempered,  and 
an  Arab  of  Pazogl,  who  knew  a  Uttle  of  their  language,  served  me  as 

""*  Afte^arest  of  three  days,  the  armyresumed  its  march.    On  the  26th 
it  entered  a  narrow,  rocky  vaUey,  on  either  «i*i«  ^^.^^'^J^^ 
deserted  villages.    The  pasha  determmed  to  put  himself  at  the  head 
of  the  expedition,  and  asked  Cailliaud  to  accompany  h'™-    J^i;;«;^ 
excused  himself  on  account  of  his  fatigued  dromedary  but  the  offer  of  a 
horse  obliged  him  to  accept,  and  having  armed  himself  to  the  teeth,  he 
followed  the  commander.     "We  entered  a  little  valley  mclosed  between 
two  chains  of  high  hiUs  and  overlooked  by  a  mountam,  which  we  pr^ 
posed  to  scale,  in  the  hope  of  surprising  the  negroes  on  the  oppoate 
Bide.    It  was  Necessary  to  break  a  passage  through  the  «^7«««  «f 
the  nebbuks,  the  thorny  branches  of  which  tore  our  clothes  mto  shreds. 
Sr^asha  had  recommended  me,  for  my  own  safety  to  keep  elo^  to 
him,  but  this  benevolent  consideration  nearly  proved  fatal  to  me     Alter 
two  hours'  march,  we  had  made  two  thirds  of  the  niountam  which  was 
the  aim  of  our  expedition.    We  advanced  up  a  rough  and  uneven  patl^ 
with  the  brink  of  a  precipice  on  the  right,  while  the  peaked  ««^^*  «f 
the  mountain  arose  on  the  left.    A  part  of  the  troops  were  m  advan^ , 
the  pasha  followed  them,  having  behind  him  one  of  "^e^;  ^^^^^^ 
ried  his  narghileh ;  I  came  immediately  after  so  near  that  the  he^o^ 
my  horse  touched  his,  and  the  Mamelukes  after  me,  for  the  path  w^  bo 
narrow  that  we  were  obliged  to  march  m  single  file     A^^  ^  «°^* 
rock,  three  feet  in  diameter,  fell  between  Ismail  and  myself,  burhng 


i.-^-^l^^''  *  -  ■ 


aisn^i-rtar#^; 


OPIA. 

hoy  found  several 

The  men,  on  the 

and  logs  of  wood 

er  with  surprising 

feet  hardly  seemed 

lurlcd  their  lances 

he  first  troofo  who 

the  prolonged  re- 

kes  and  some  Al- 

once :  the  negroes 

lances,  killing  one 

le  pasha  returned 

ay  all  their  lances, 

aped,  and  the  rest 

;n  killed  and  forty 

ere  killed,  and  five 

ter  had  crisp  hair, 

lem  had  flat  noses. 

the  loins,  and  the 

iddle  of  the  thigh. 

bic.    The  pasha  al- 

good-tempered,  and 

uage,  served  me  as 

march.  On  the  26th 
f  which  were  many 
limself  at  the  head 
ly  him.  The  latter 
•y,  but  the  offer  of  a 
self  to  the  teeth,  he 
ley  inclosed  between 
itain,  which  we  pro- 
oes  on  the  opposite 
h  the  mimosas  and 

clothes  into  shreds. 
ty,  to  keep  close  to 
I  fatal  to  me.  After 
nountdn  which  was 
;h  and  uneven  path, 
!  peaked  summit  of 
ps  were  in  advance ; 
his  slaves,  who  car- 
ir  that  the  head  of 

for  the  path  was  so 
file.  All  at  once  a 
and  myself,  hurling 


A   NIGHT    ATTACK. 


278 


down  the  precipice  the  slave  who  separated  us.  Without  doubt  the 
blow  was  intended  for  the  pasha,  who  was  distinguished  by  his  rich 
costume ;  but  one  step  more,  and  I  should  have  received  it !  Ismail 
turned  immediately,  and  I  could  perceive  his  fright  in  the  pallor  of  his 
countenance  ;  I  confess,  however,  that  he  could  justly  have  made  the 
same  remark  concerning  me.  We  dismounted,  in  order  to  avoid  more 
readily  the  'rocks  and  pieces  of  wood  which  the  negroes  continued  to 
hurl  down  upon  us.  We  descended  the  mountain  much  faster  than  we 
went  up,  and,  having  reached  a  level  spot,  the  pasha  played  a  piece  of 
cannon  against  the  summit ;  but  the  balls,  passing  beyond,  abnost  reached 
the  troops  commanded  by  his  physician,  who  returned  in  great  fear, 
without  having  achieved  any  more  valorous  exploits  than  ourselves." 

During  the  next  day's  march,  they  saw  several  enormous  baobab' 
trees,  one  of  which  measured  sixty-two  feet  in  circumference.  The 
country  became  more  open,  but  a  new  range  of  mountains  appeared  in 
the  south.  Although  he  knew  that  his  army  was  surrounded  by  a  body 
of  five  or  six  thousand  negroes,  the  pasha  neglected  to  place  any  8en< 
tinels  around  his  camp  that  night.  Favored  by  this  carelessness,  the 
negroes  cautiously  descended  from  the  mountains :  the  thickness  of  the 
foliage,  the  darkness  of  the  night,  and  the  color  of  their  skins,  even, 
contnbuted  to  conceal  their  march.  They  were  but  a  pistol-shot  dis- 
tant, when,  o^tdng  no  doubt  to  a  custom  of  theirs  on  attacking,  they 
began  to  utter  loud  cries,  hurling  their  lances  at  the  same  time.  The 
alarm  and  confusion  was  general ;  no  one  knew  from  which  side  the 
attack  came.  The  soldiers,  hurrying  out  of  their  tents,  supposed  that 
the  negroes  were  already  masters  of  the  camp.  A  few  discharges  of 
musketry  sufficed  to  drive  off  the  foes,  and  the  tumult  finally  ceased. 
During  the  confusion  several  cannon  were  fired,  but  so  much  at  random, 
that  one  of  the  balls  passed  over  Cailliaud's  tent,  and  another  struck  the 
earth  about  fifteen  paces  off 

Seeing  that  little  was  to  be  accomplished  against  the  negroes,  in  a 
country  where  every  mountain  or  forest  was  an  almost  impregnable  fort- 
ress, the  pasha  determined  to  return  to  Ealgou,  and  take  the  direct 
route  to  FazogL  The  way  was  very  laborious  and  difficult ;  there  was 
no  water,  except  some  pools  which  were  corrupt  and  stagnant ;  deep, 
rocky  ravines  crossed  the  path,  and  the  army  was  beginning  to  suffer 
greatly  from  thirst,  when  a  little  water  was  obtained  by  digging  in  the 
dry  bed  of  the  torrent.  "  Having  passed  these  dry  water-courses,"  says 
Cidlliaud,  "  we  made  our  painful  way  through  a  dense  thicket  of  gigantic 
bushes,  acacias  and  nebbuks ;  our  faces,  our  hands  and  feet,  were  scarred 
with  severe  and  inevitable  scratches,  and  oiur  clothes  were  hanging  in 
shreds.  At  last,  toward  evening,  we  found  ourselves  all  at  once  on  the 
banks  of  the  Nile.  The  sight  of  the  water  restored  quiet  to  the  troops, 
who  were  becoming  discontented  and  mutinous." 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1822,  they  set  out  for  the  great  mountain  of 
Fazogl,  which  they  saw  in  the  south-east.    The  country  was  covered 

18 


1 


I 


% 


^ 

I 


W 


OAILLIAUD'8    JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 

with  thick  woods;  hero  ami  there  grew  tamarinds  and  doum-palms  of 
much  grander  proportions  than  those  of  Egypt     "Th.s  day  was  for  us 
^day  of  miHforlune.     At  first  I  abandoned  one  of  my  camels,  which  died 
L  the  route;  toward  evening  two  oti.ers  fell  -\« --•-' j\'^^^^^^^ 
necessary  to  unload  and  reload,  which  consumed  much  time    besdes 
ol>H.Mn/me  to  throw  away  a  part  of  our  dourra.    Meanwhile  the  mght 
came,  and  wo  were  enveloped  in  gloom.     Wo  ceased  to  hear  the  foot- 
steps of  some  stragglers  who  hurried  on  to  reach  Fa.ogl ;  the  whole 
army  was  in  advan^,  and  we  sought  vainly,  in  the  obscurity,  to  find  a 
trTce  of  its  path.    M.  Letorzec  and  myself  were  grealy  fatigued  and 
deressed.    I  went  to  take  a  drink  of  water,  but,  alas!  the  water-skm 
h      been  burst  by  the  fall  of  the  camel      ^'".7"     ^IrkeTbv 
pass  the  night  in  the  woods,  exposed  to  the  danger  of  being  attacked  by 
wi  d  bea  tf  or  by  the  negroes,  in  case  we  should  light  a  fire  to  frighten 
rwaytrLmer'   Such^as  ;ur  perplexity,  .vhen  our  Arab  said  to  me 
that  ho  perceived  a  light  in  the  distance;  we  looked  bu    discovered 
nothing  but  finally  it  increased  and  we  saw  it  also.    This  sight  revived 
our  courag^^^^    Wo  hastened  toward  it,  but  cautiously   not  knowing 
whether  we^ero  approaching  friends  or  foes.    I  sent  the  Arab  in  ad- 
vance to  miko  a  stealthy  inspection,  and  in  a  short  time  we  were 
rceably  startled  by  his  cries  of  joy.   At  the  same  time  ^o^^l  ^o^^'^ 
?ost  like  ourselves,  approached,  begging  us  for  water     A  smgle  bott^ 
of  wine  which  T  had  always  preserved  in  case  of  misfortune  could  not 
ho  better  employed  •  we  drank  the  half  of  it,  and  then  resigned  ourselves 
to  paltheTght^  h  our  companions  in  misfortune.    ITiis  was  the  time 
vhrn  M.  L  torzec  was  seized  with  a  fever,  which  lasted  several  months 
Earlv  the  next  morning  we  set  out  to  rejoin  the  army,  which  we  found 
TtL  hours'  distance'  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile,  near  the  vUhge  of 
Vara  a  dependency  of  Fazogl,  where  we  remained  several  days.' 

On  approaching  the  village  of  Fazogl,  the  pasha  was  received  by  Ha^ 
san,  king 'of  the  iLvince,  ^ho  went  in  advance,  accompanied  by  his 
Sisters    mounted  on  fine  Aby  .inian  horses,  and  surrounded  by  a 
lad  of  a  hundred  men,  armed  with  lances.    They  met  Ismail  at  five 
wues' distance ;  the  king  and  his  ministers  dismounted  -h-  fey  per- 
ceW  d  him,  advanced  on  foot  and  prostrated  themselves  before  him. 
hTs  anp"  entedhimwith  two  splendid  horses ;  the  guards,  approach- 
inrranJcd  themselves  in  a  Ime,  knelt  and  reversed  the  pomts  of  their 
laLs  in  token  of  submission.    In  recognition  of  his  receptmn  Ismail 
prSdLtroopsfrompassingthroughthevill^^^^^ 
miffht  not  be  devastated ;  for  it  was  not  always  m  his  power  to  Preserve 
Zd  order     On  the  5th,  the  expedition  advanced  to  a  village  caUed 
Tourmoga     Having  learned  that  King  Hassan  was  there  CaUliaud  p^d 
hra  vlt     "  I  entered  into  an  ordinary  hut,  where  I  found  the  lang 
SnVcro  s-legged  upon  a  mat.    He  wa.  a  handsome  man,  young  and 
of  an  areeabfe  figure.    His  costume  was  similar  to  that  of  the  kuigs 
ff  T.rlZt^ilr.r.^^-^  with  surprise  that  his  sandab  tenmnated  m 


iillfciil  l""^'""!" 


iH'rid-iJ^iiWIii 


■^^£l^««^iMM 


^feM 


»*i,T  r< 


I  A. 

doum-palms  of 

9  day  was  for  u» 
nols,  which  difid 
vino,  and  it  was 

time,  besides 
nwhile  the  night 

10  hear  t!ic  foot- 
;ogl ;  the  whole 
scurity,  to  find  a 
tly  fatigued  and 

tliu  water-skin 
ow  that  wo  must 
icing  attacked  by 
a  firo  to  frighten 
Arab  said  to  mo 
d  but  discovered 
'his  sight  revived 
ily,  not  knowing 
;  the  Arab  in  ad- 
t  time  wo  were 
0  several  soldiers, 

A  single  bottle 
fortune,  could  not 
resigned  ourselves 
This  was  the  time 
jd  several  months. 
yr,  which  Ave  found 
!ar  the  village  of 
/^eral  days." 
8  received  by  Has- 
companicd  by  his 
surrounded  by  a 
met  Ismail  at  five 
ted  when  they  per- 
ielves  before  him. 
guards,  approach- 
the  points  of  their 
s  reception,  Ismail 
,  in  order  that  they 
power  to  preserve 
to  a  village  called 
lere,  Cailliaud  pjud 
3 1  found  the  king 
le  man,  young,  and 
that  of  the  kings 
idals  terminated  in 


THE    FIOIIT   OP  AOARO. 


275 


curved  points,  exactly  similar  to  those  roprcscntod  in  the  Tombs  of  tho 
Kings,  at  Thebes.  On  his  knees  he  hold  his  siibcr,  in  which  scorned  to 
consist  all  his  magnificence.  The  scabbard  and  hilt  wore  of  silver ; 
Bovoral  heavy  silver  rings  adorned  his  fingers,  and  around  his  nock  ho 
wore  little  leather  cases  containing  verses  from  tho  Koran." 

The  ammint  of  tribute  to  be  paid  by  FazogI,  was  at  last  fixed  at  one 
thousand  ounces  of  gold  and  two  thousand  male  slaves,  and  the  piisha 
set  out  on  the  12th  for  tho  gold  mines  of  Kasan,  lying  two  or  three 
days'  journey  to  tho  south-west.  To  Cailliaud,  whoso  camels  wore 
nearly  exhausted,  ho  gave  a  horse,  and  to  M.  Letorzec  a  mule,  which 
enabled  them  to  travel  with  more  case  and  rapidity.  On  approaching 
the  mountain  of  Agaro,  tho  road  Avas  crossed  by  a  precipitous  gulley 
thirty-five  feet  deep,  in  passing  which  many  of  tho  camels  wero  hurled 
to  the  bottom  with  their  riders,  and  perished.  Tho  next  forenoon  tho 
army  reached  the  foot  of  tho  mountain,  and  encamped.  Tho  negroes, 
full  of  audacity,  on  account  of  thoir  number  and  the  strength  of  their 
position,  had  sent  word  to  Ismail,  before  he  left  FazogI,  that  if  he  camo 
into  their  mountains,  they  would  break  his  legs.  But,  at  tho  sight  of 
the  army,  they  began  to  change  their  tune ;  they  sent  word  to  him  that 
they  would  submit  and  pay  tribute  to  him.  Ismail  entered  into  nego- 
tiations with  them,  in  order  to  gain  time  until  his  troops  had  surrounded 
the  mountain.  When  tho  negroes  perceived  this  design,  they  took  to 
flight.  The  signal  was  then  given  for  attack,  and  after  a  short  struggle 
the  soldiers  reached  the  top  of  the  mountain,  where  they  at  once  set  firo 
to  the  village.  The  inhabitants  numbered  about  three  thousand,  of 
whom  only  about  a  hundred,  mostly  women,  wero  taken,  at  the  cost  of 
fifteen  lives. 

The  pasha  then  determined  to  make  another  assault  on  tho  eastern 
part  of  the  mountain,  with  eight  hundred  men  and  a  piece  of  cannon. 
"  This  time,"  says  Cailliaud,  "  I  was  tempted  to  accompany  him.  Tho 
troops  dispersed  themselves  over  the  mountain  in  the  hope  of  blockading 
the  village,  and  arrived  there  without  trouble  or  resistance :  it  was  de- 
serted. In  an  instant  the  torch  was  applied,  and  five  hundred  huts  wero 
reduced  to  ashes.  Old  persons  of  both  sexes,  whom  age  or  infirmity 
prevented  from  flying,  wero  buried  under  their  blazing  roofs ;  others 
were  conducted  to  the  pasha,  who,  not  knowing  what  to  do  with  them, 
allowed  them  freely  to  behold  the  horrible  lesson  which  a  more  civilized 
people  than  they  came  to  teach  them."  On  the  1 6th  the  army  crossed 
a  river  called  the  Toumat,  continuing  its  course  in  a  south-western  direc- 
tion, and  reached  the  mountains  of  Khasinkaro,  where  a  deputation  of 
negroes  came  to  meet  the  pasha.  They  said  that  if  he  would  continue 
his  journey  without  doing  them  any  harm,  they  would  be  able  to  pay 
him  tribute  on  his  return.  He  placed  little  faith  in  their  promises,  but 
as  he  was  impatient  to  reach  the  gold  mines,  agreed  to  what  they 
asked. 

Following  the  coarse  of  the  Toumat,  which  furnished  an  ample  sup- 


• 


i 


276 


CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    KTIIIOPIA. 


ply  of  water,  the  expedition  Bkirtcd  the  mountain  of  Kosan  on  tho  18th. 
Tlio  inhabitants  of  a  largo  village  on  itH  summit  protniscd  the  pasha  livo 
hundred  male  Hlavcs,  aa  their  tribute.  Soon  afterward  they  entered  the 
territory  of  (aamamyl,  and  discovered  in  tho  west  a  long  chain  of  mount- 
ains called  Obeh.  The  road  here  woa  contumally  crossed  by  small 
affluents  of  the  Toumat,  which  had  worn  for  themselves  deep  beds  in 
the  soil,  making  the  traveling  more  difflcult  than  any  which  the  army 
hod  yet  encountered.  "  The  passage  of  these  ravines,"  says  Cailliaud, 
"  was  fatal  to  the  camels ;  the  route  was  strewn  with  abandoned  anunals 
and  baggage.  Tho  pasha  himself  liad  but  a  single  good  horse  remain- 
ing. We  were  constrained  to  leave  behind  us  a  camel,  part  of  its  load, 
and  tho  mule  of  M.  Lotorzco,  who  then  mounted  the  dromedary  which 
carried  my  papers  and  drawings ;  but  the  poor  animal,  exhausted  with 
fatigue,  lay  down.  In  vain  did  we  employ  every  means  to  raise  it,  avo 
could  not  succeed.  That  part  of  the  forest  in  which  we  were  was  full 
of  small  dead  trees  and  dry  brush-wood,  which  was  imprudently  set  on 
fire  by  tho  soldiers  at  a  short  distance  from  us.  Soon  the  flames  were 
ready  to  envelop  uq  ;  I  resolved  to  lose  the  dromedary,  but  I  wished 
to  savo  its  load,  which  contained  all  my  papers.  We  had  nothing  at 
hand  to  cut  the  cords  and  straps  which  bound  it,  and  in  our  anxiety 
made  useless  efforts  to  untie  them.  All  was  over :  tho  froit  of  so  much 
trouble  and  peril  was  about  to  become  the  prey  of  tho  flames.  They 
cried  out  to  us  to  save  ourselves,  but  I  could  not  resign  myself  to  sacri- 
fice my  treasures.  Already  the  heat  scorched  us,  we  felt  the  approach 
of  the  fire ;  we  must  leave — ^I  uttered  a  cry  of  despdr.  Meanwhile  our 
camel,  feeling  the  flames,  rose,  darted  forward  a  little  distance,  and  fell 
again.  We  ran  to  it,  tore  away  the  precious  load,  and  placed  it  on  my 
horse,  which  I  drew  by  the  bridle,  while  M.  Letorzeo  urged  it  in  tho 
rear.  But  the  wind  drove  the  flames  toward  us ;  they  advanced  nearer 
and  nearer ;  we  were  almost  overcome  with  terror,  when,  oh,  joy !  the 
trees  became  scattering,  and  we  issued  from  tho  wood." 

Having  escaped  this  danger,  the  travelers  found  that  they  had  lost 
their  way,  and  were  in  almost  equal  peril,  until  they  encountered  some 
straggling  soldiers.  On  reaching  the  camp  Cailliaud  found  that  his  bag- 
gage had  not  arrived,  and  was  indebted  to  the  charity  of  some  soldiers 
for  a  cake  of  dourra,  aflier  eating  which  he  slept  upon  his  laddle-cloth, 
in  the  open  sur.  The  place  where  they  were  encamped  was  called  Ab- 
koulgui,  situated,  according  to  Cailliaud's  observations,  in  latitude  10° 
38'  north.  "  The  village  consists  of  a  few  scattered  habitations,  on  an 
elevated  slope,  whence  the  view  extends  over  several  other  hills  more 
or  less  wooded,  and  covered  with  isolated  habitations.  In  the  south 
one  sees  the  distant  mountain  of  Mafis,  and  in  the  west  the  long  ridge 
of  Obeh.  Abkoulgui  appears  to  be  the  central  point  of  the  province  of 
Gamamyl,  which  is  two  days'  journey  in  extent.  It  is  watered  by  the 
Toumat  and  a  great  quantity  of  its  tributary  torrents ;  the  soil  is  a  clay» 
fall  of  sand  and  pebbles,  and  showing  everywhere  traces  of  oxyd  of  iron. 


1 


lA. 

an  on  tho  18th. 
1  the  pasha  live 
ley  entered  tho 
chain  of  mount- 
ossed  by  small 
>8  deep  beds  in 
vhich  tho  army 

says  Cailliaud, 
indoned  animals 
horse  remain- 
part  of  its  load, 
romedary  which 

exhausted  with 

ns  to  raise  it,  avo 

we  were  was  full 

iprudently  set  on 

the  flames  were 

iry,  but  I  wished 

e  had  nothing  at 

id  in  our  anxiety 

fi-oit  of  so  much 

ho  flames.    They 

a  myself  to  sacri- 

felt  the  approach 

Meanwhile  our 

distance,  and  fell 

I  placed  it  on  my 

I  urged  it  in  tho 

J  advanced  nearer 

hen,  oh,  joy !  the 

i» 

that  they  had  lost 
encountered  some 
bund  that  his  bag- 
y  of  some  soldiers 
\  his  laddle-cloth, 
ed  was  called  Ab- 
is,  in  latitude  10° 
habitations,  on  an 
[  other  hills  more 
OS.  In  the  south 
rest  the  long  ridge 
of  the  province  of 
is  watered  by  the 
;  the  soil  is  a  clay» 
sea  of  oxyd  of  iron. 


EXPERIMKNT8    IN    GOLD    WASIIINO. 


277 


Tliifl  province  is  reputed  to  bo  tho  richest  in  anriforoun  substances, 
where  the  negroes  havo  been  most  successful  in  collecting  gold  dust." 

Tho  pasha,  impatient  to  test  tho  valuo  of  the  gold  washings,  sent 
Cnilliaud  tho  next  day  to  examine  tlioin.  Tho  negroes  lind  sunk  pits 
eighteen  or  twenty  feet  deep,  in  tho  bed  and  banks  of  the  river,  and 
washed  oirt  in  wooden  bowls  the  earth  which  they  took  from  those 
places.  Tho  traveler  succeeded  in  getting  a  few  very  small  grains  of 
fine  gold,  after  washing  for  some  time,  but  tho  result  was  very  unsatis- 
factory to  tho  pasha,  who  next  day  sent  him  to  another  gold-washing, 
with  several  miners  and  an  escort  of  thirty  men.  Hero  he  opened  new 
pits,  and  carefully  washed  tho  earth,  but  the  gold  was  found  in  quanti- 
ties so  small  OS  scarcely  to  repay  tho  labor.  Finally,  in  the  hope  that 
tho  natives  know  of  richer  deposits,  Ismail  sent  out  an  expedition  to  take 
some  prisoners.  Among  those  captured  w  as  a  chief,  who  informed  him 
that  during  tho  rainy  season,  tho  floods  sometimes  washed  down  pieces 
of  gold  as  largo  as  beans,  but  that  at  the  present  time,  it  was  only  found 
in  dust  and  small  grains.  Ho  indicated  several  of  the  most  favorable 
places  in  the  country,  and  oifered  to  conduct  the  pasha  to  them.  Two 
or  three  excursions  were  made  in  diflcrent  directions,  under  a  strong 
armed  escort,  and  tho  washing  carried  on  vigorously  for  several  days, 
but  with  no  hotter  success.  The  pasha  at  last  became  disgusted,  and 
gave  up  tho  search  entirely. 

Meanwhile,  his  situation  was  becoming  insecure.  Tho  Gallas,  who 
have  overrun  all  tho  south-western  part  of  Abyssinia,  and  who  are  also 
enemies  of  the  wild  negro  tribes,  were  only  five  or  six  hours  distant  from 
him ;  the  negroes  were  collecting  for  a  new  assault,  and  he  received 
word  that  a  convoy  of  powder  and  other  munitions  had  been  taken  by 
the  natives  near  Fazogl,  and  an  escort  of  twenty-five  men  killed.  How- 
ever, being  re-enforced  by  a  company  of  four  hundred  men  who  arrived 
from  Sonna&r,  he  continued  to  send  out  parties  against  tho  neighboring 
villages  for  the  purpose  of  increasing  his  harvest  of  slaves.  All  this 
region  has  the  general  name  of  Bertat ;  the  inhabitants  are  of  pure  negro 
blood,  and  wholly  savage  in  their  character  and  habits.  Their  only 
religion  consists  in  the  worship  of  large  trees,  especially  the  baobab,  un- 
der which  they  sometimes  sacrifice  sheep  or  goats.  Their  clothing  is 
scarcely  sufficient  for  description ;  their  bodies  are  long,  and  nimble 
rather  than  athletic,  and  they  are  not  wanting  in  courage,  as  the  Egyp- 
tian troops  had  already  learned. 

"  Seventeen  days,"  says  Cailliaud,  "  had  elapsed  since  our  arrival  at 
Gamamyl.  I  had  undergone  many  fatigues,  and  yet  my  health  had 
improved.  Every  day  I  mounted  my  horse  to  go  on  the  hunt  of  auri- 
ferous sands.  We  multiplied  our  trials,  weighed  the  earth,  calculated 
the  proportion  of  the  quantity  of  gold,  but  never  attained  any  result 
which  could  give  us  the  least  hope.  Those  mountains  of  gold  upon 
which  the  pasha  counted  so  strongly,  vanished  like  smoke :  the  thirty 
thousand  negroes,  which  he  intended  to  capture  diminished  to  a  few 


wmm 


278 


OAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA, 


hundreds.  It  became  necessary  to  try  our  luck  elsewhere,  and  ho  gave 
the  order  for  our  departure.  From  the  want  of  camels  I  was  obliged  to 
leave  behind  a  fine  collection  of  minerals  which  I  had  gathered  together. 
M.  Letorzec,  weighed  down  by  fever,  remained  in  bed  during  our  stay ; 
his  strength  visibly  diminished,  day  after  day.  When  he  learned  that 
wc  were  about  to  set  out  for  the  purpose  of  penetrating  still  further 
southward,  his  chagrin  increased  his  illness,  and  lie  was  haunted  by  the 
idea  that  he  M-ould  never  see  his  native  country  again.  We  set  out 
on  the  5th  of  February.  Most  of  the  soldiers  could  not  restrain  their 
surprise  at  seeing  that  we  were  still  marching  to  the  south.  The  Shy- 
gheeans  had  made  a  mannikin  resembling  a  man  and  dressed  in  the 
fashion  of  their  tribe ;  it  is  an  established  custom  with  them  to  inter  a 
similar  mannikin  at  the  extreme  limit  which  their  hostile  expeditions 
reach,  in  an  enemy's  country.  Some  of  them  walked  in  order  to  allow 
this  ridiculous  figure  to  ride  on  a  camel;  at  which  the  Turks  were 
greatly  amused." 

The  army  encamped  near  the  village  of  Singuo,  which  was  inhabited 
by  Mussulmen.  Moussa,  their  chief,  had  sent  word  that  he  was  disposed 
to  pay  a  tribute,  in  consequence  of  which,  the  pasha  prevented  his  troops 
from  approaching  the  village,  fearing  they  might  commit  deprediJtions. 
Cailliaud  visited  the  place  next  morning,  and  found  it  to  consist  of  five 
or  six  hundred  houses,  scattered  along  a  ridge  three  or  four  miles  in 
length.  It  was  almost  deserted,  and  the  traveler  did  not  judge  it  pru- 
dent to  remain  long.  The  village  was  sacked  by  the  troops  the  same 
day.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  7th,  while  the  greater  part  of  the  Turkish 
soldiers  Averc  asleep,  according  to  their  custom,  a  body  of  about  a  thou- 
sand negroes  descended  from  the  lulls  to  the  westward.  They  were 
finally  perceived,  and  the  pasha  and  his  artillery-men  aroused  ;  but  before 
the  guns  could  be  brought  to  bear  on  them,  they  had  advanced  near 
enough  to  kill  some  straggling  soldiers.  The  fear  of  the  cannon  caused 
them  to  retreat  precipitately  to  the  mountains.  Five  hundred  men  were 
sent  after  them,  but  not  being  able  to  reach  them,  burned  their  houses. 
The  negroes  renewed  their  attacks  next  day,  and  succeeded  in  carrying 
off  eight  of  the  pasha's  finest  horses.  One  of  the  savage  chiefs  who  had 
been  taken  prisoner,  was  offered  his  liberty  if  he  would  obtain  the  ani- 
mals and  restore  them  ;  this  he  swore  by  the  Koran  to  do,  and  M'as  ac- 
cordingly liberated,  but  neither  chief  nor  horses  were  ever  seen  again. 

The  situation  of  the  Egyptian  army  Avas  now  very  critical.  There 
was  a  general  league  among  all  the  negro  tribes,  to  repel  the  invaders. 
The  ammunition  was  almost  exhausted ;  provisions  were  rapidly  dimin- 
ishing, and  the  latest  news  from  Sennaar  stated  that  the  people,  p'  'suaded 
that  the  pasha  and  his  troops  would  perish  among  the  mountains,  were 
already  beginning  to  foment  a  rebellion  against  the  Egyptian  rule.  The 
pasha  at  last  made  up  his  mind  to  submit  to  circumstances,  and  order  a 
retreat.  "The  next  day,  February  11th,"  says  Cailliaud,  "was  fixed 
upon  for  our  departure.    Before  quitting  Singue,  I  wished  to  overlook 


PIA. 

lerc,  and  ho  gave 
1 1  was  obliged  to 
athcred  togctlier. 

during  our  stay ; 
I  he  leaincd  that 
iting  still  further 
IS  haunti-d  by  the 
lin.    Wc  set  out 

not  restrain  their 
south.  The  Shy- 
id  dressed  in  the 
th  them  to  inter  a 
lostile  expeditions 
[  in  order  to  allow 
li  the  Turks  were 

lich  was  inhabited 
at  he  was  disposed 
reventcd  his  troops 
nmit  depredations, 
it  to  consist  of  five 
ee  or  four  miles  in 
d  not  judge  it  pru- 
le  troops  the  same 
part  of  the  Turkish 
3y  of  about  a  thou- 
,ward.     They  Avero 
iroused ;  but  before 
had  advanced  near 
■  the  cannon  caused 
3  hundred  men  were 
urncd  their  houses, 
icceeded  in  carrying 
vage  chiefs  who  had 
)uld  obtain  the  ani- 
ti  to  do,  and  Avas  ac- 
e  ever  seen  again, 
rery  critical.    There 

0  repel  the  invaders, 
were  rapidly  dimin- 

he  people,  p'  -suaded 
the  mountains,  were 
Egyptian  rule.  The 
[Stances,  and  order  a 
!ailliaud,  "Avas  fixed 

1  wished  to  overlook 


RETREAT    TO    SENNAAR. 


279 


at  least,  as  far  as  my  vision  might  reach,  the  regions  Avhich  an  inexorable 
lato  prevented  us  from  traversing.  I  climbed  a  hill,  and  there,  armed 
Avith  a  telescope,  I  sought  to  discover  the  regions  Avhere  my  imagination 
had  placed  the  source  of  the  White  Nile.  Vain  effort !  I  only  convinced 
myself  anew  how  limited  is  the  space  Avhich  the  human  eye  can  embrace. 
Ceasing  to.gazo  at  a  horizon  Avhich  exhibited  only  vapory  and  confused 
outlities,  I  carved  deeply  on  the  rock  the  name  of  France,  and  transported 
myself,  in  chought,  to  that  beloved  land.  The  army  sloAvly  debouched 
from  the  labyrinth  of  hills  Avhich  surrounds  Singue,  cutting  for  itself  a 
path  to  the  Avest  of  thut  Avhich  it  had  followed  in  coming.  We  Avere 
still  surrounded  Avith  enemies,  and  observed  an  order  of  march  more 
regular  than  usual.  This  retrograde  movement  inspired  all  the  men  Avith 
new  energy  ;  even  the  animals  seemed  to  understand  that  Ave  Avero  re- 
turning, and  marched  more  firmly  and  rapidly.  Joy  Avas  painted  on  the 
faces  of  all ;  the  Bedouins  and  the  Albanians  manifested  theirs  by  songs; 
the  remembrance  of  past  hardships  Avivs  banished  from  memory,  and  all 
hopes  were  turned  toward  Egypt." 

After  a  toilsome  march  of  four  days,  the  army  reached  Adassy,  on 
the  Nile,  The  troops  rushed  to  the  bank,  and  precipitated  themselves 
into  the  river,  each  anxious  to  bo  the  first  to  drink  of  its  waters.  M. 
Letorzoc  was  in  such  a  Aveak  state,  that  CaiUiaud  applied  to  the  pasha  for 
a  boat,  in  order  to  descend  the  river  to  Sennaar,  and  the  latter  was  so 
obliging  as  to  give  up  his  own  barque,  as  he  intended  returning  by  land 
with  the  army,  lie  sent  Avith  the  travelers  a  courier  to  his  father,  who 
was  intrusted  Anth  two  quintals  of  the  auriferous  sands  of  Gamamyl,  and 
a  report  on  the  gold  region,  containing  the  results  of  the  experiments 
made  under  Cailliaud's  direction.  The  barque  left  for  Sennaar  on  the 
18th.  "  For  a  long  time  we  had  not  enjoyed  so  much  ease  and  tranquil- 
lity. We  experienced  an  inexpressible  feeling  of  pleasure  in  sleeping, 
Avithout  being  suddenly  called  up  by  the  drum-beat ;  in  having  to  suffer 
no  more  from  hunger,  thirst,  Avatchfulness,  alarms ;  in  being  relieved  from 
tending,  feeding,  loading  and  unloading  camels;  and,  instead  of  running 
the  risk  of  being  buried  in  torrents,  torn  by  the  thorns  of  mimosas  and 
nebbuks,  or  sAvept  by  the  flames  of  burning  forests,  in  lying  peacefully 
upon  a  thick  carpet  in  the  shade,  all  day  long.  All,  this  new  Ufe  was  too 
luxurious — it  was  the  height  of  felicity  !" 

In  passing  the  cataract  of  El-Kerr,  the  boat  struck  a  rock  and  damaged 
the  bow,  occasioning  a  dangerous  leak.  It  Avas  on  the  point  of  sinking ; 
all  Avas  terror  and  confusion  ;  Cailliaud  seized  his  packages  of  notes  and 
drawings,  and  leaped  upon  a  rock,  and  for  awhile  a  complete  shipAvreck 
threatened  them.  Finally,  however,  the  leak  was  found  and  stopped,  the 
boat  temporarily  calked,  and  the  travelers  continued  their  voyage  to 
Sennaar,  Avhere  they  arrived  without  further  mishap,  on  the  20th.  Cail- 
liaud immediately  went  to  his  old  residence,  where  he  Avas  received  Avith 
great  joy  by  his  former  hosts.  In  delivering  to  Divan  Effendi,  the  com- 
mander  of  the  garrison,  the  letters  of  Ismail  Pasha,  he  learned  that  the 


I 


280  CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO   ETHIOPIA. 

latter  had  ordered  that  he  should  be  furnished  with  camels,  and  with  the 
fundi  necessary  for  the  expenses  of  his  journey  to  Egypt  As  he  ex- 
ttl^TZL  some  money  in  Dongola,  he  took  but  Aye  thousand 
Sters  ($250).  As  there  were  symptoms  of  insurrections  m  the  prov- 
Fres Tf  Halfay  and  Shendy,  he  determined  to  make  no  stay  m  Senna^r 
but  to  push  forward  and  examine  the  reported  ruins  of  Me«)wur.t  and 
NaV^  before  the  country  should  become  insecure.  He  had  desired  to 
fxXe  Kordofun,  but  the  state  of  M.  Letorzec's  health  was  such  that 
he  codd  not  have  supported  the  journey.  This  circumstance,  which 
seemed  so  unfortunate  at  the  time,  was  in  reality  the  salvation  of  the 
Sers  Had  they  remained  longer  they  would  probably  have  become 
Involved  in  the  same  fete  which  overtook  IsmaU  Pasha  and  a  great  part 

'''caSdleftSenna^ron  the  1st  of  March,  and  reached  Halfay  on 
the  9th  M.  Letorzec  was  so  ill  that  he  was  obliged  to  travel  m  a  li^ 
ter,Sened  on  the  back  of  a  camel.  After  resting  a  ^ay  they  resumed 
the  route  to  Shendy,  following  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Nile.  On  the 
14th 'tys^^^^^^^^^^  "after  having  traveled  for  an  hour  oyer  a  plain 
Ihinly  covered  with  smaU  acacias,  I  reached  some  rums  which  had  at- 
tSd  my  attention  at  a  distance  ;  I  recognized  the  site  ot  an  anc  ent 
cUy  by  ^he  enormous  mounds  of  burned  brick,  several  of  which  still  in- 
Sled  the  outlines  of  buUdings.  The  place  is  known  by  the  name  of 
Sa.  The  most  remarkable  ruins  are  those  of  a  typhomum,  c-  temple 
to  fhe  Evil  Principle,  which  is  about  eighty-seven  feet  m  length."  On 
themhThey  passed  a  great  many  vUlages^announcing  their  ^proach 
to  Shendy,  where  they  arrived  at  noon.  They  immediately  visited  the 
TurkUh  governor,  who  procured  them  a  house,  as  they  intended  remam- 
^ng  some  dlys.  M.  Linant,  who  had  returned  from  Sennaar  with  Ibrahmi 

^"l^XrsSt^Tout  on  his  return  to  Egypt,  CaiUiand  desired  Jo  visit 
the  ruins  of  Naga  near  Djebel  Ardan,  and  those  of  Mesowurat.    His 
compadon  although  convalescent,  was  T.ot  able  to  support  the  fat^e. 
U  wCre'rl.^  ^eed  that  he  should  leave  for  Egypt  ™  a  few  days 
and  ioumey  by  short  stages  untU  overtaken  by  Cailliaud.    The  latter 
1  outTn  the  22d,  accompanied  by  two  guides  and  two  servants. 
AfterTour^eying  aU  day  down  a  long  vaUey  extending  to  the  south  he 
^ald  the  extfemity  of  the  mountains,  where  the  ru-  w-e  s^djo 
exist     "  It  was  already  nighV  he  writes,  "  and  my  gmdes  did  not  con- 
rider  it  prudlt  to  go  further,  for  fear  of  meeting  with  the  Shukorees, 
who  werlin  open  revolt.    We  unloaded  our  camels  cautiously,  and  lay 
lown  under  the  acacias  which  surrounded  us.    Wrapped  m  a  qudt,  wrth 
ly  head  on  a  bundle  of  papers,  I  slept  soundly,  my  Arabs  watching  by 
TuLs  through  the  night     I  awoke  at  dawn,  and  finding  every  thmg 
qTe  ,  aSed  through  the  trees  toward  the  ruins,  which  I  discov^ed 
r^  at  hand.    The  fi™t  object  which  I  saw  was  a  temple  covered  with 
Eg;iit^"cVre«.  with  its  pylon,  and  a  portico  of  Greco-Roman  ar- 

l ■ : ' — 


10 


OPIA. 

mela,  and  with  the 
gypt.  As  he  ex- 
}ut  five  thousand 
tions  in  the  prov- 
o  stay  in  Senna&r, 
jf  Mesowurat  and 
le  had  desired  to 
alth  was  such  that 
rcumstance,  which 
salvation  of  the 
l)ably  have  become 
a  and  a  great  part 

reached  Halfay  on 

to  travel  in  a  lit- 

1  day  they  resumed 

le  Nile.     "  On  the 

hour  over  a  plain 

uins  which  had  at- 

site  of  an  ancient 

•al  of  which  still  in- 

wn  by  the  name  of 

phonium,  c  temple 

•et  in  length."    On 

cing  their  approach 

lediately  visited  the 

icy  intended  remain- 

enna4r  with  Ibrahim 

aud  desired  to  visit 
of  Mesowurat.  His 
support  the  £itigue. 
Egypt  in  a  few  days, 
ailliaud.  The  latter 
)  and  two  servants, 
ing  to  the  south,  he 
i  ruins  were  said  to 
'  guides  did  not  con- 
with  the  Shukorees, 
8  cautiously,  and  lay 
ipped  in  a  quilt,  with 
Arabs  watching  by 
finding  overy  thing 
which  I  discovered 
;emple  covered  with 
of  Qreco-Roman  ar- 


RUINS  AT  NAGA  AND  MESOWURAT. 


281 


chiteoturc,  with  Egyptian  ornaments.  Still  further  wore  the  mins  of 
another  grand  temple,  with  finely  sculptured  decorations,  and  preceded 
by  an  avenue  of  sphinxes ;  the  substructions  of  several  other  edifices, 
and  those  of  a  public  tank.  I  recognized  here  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
city,  the  importance  of  which  was  attested  by  the  nature  of  the  remains 
wUch  still  existed,  and  by  the  extent  of  territory  which  they  occupied. 
♦  ♦  ♦  My  guides  arrived,  and  in  order  that  we  might  not  be  seen 
by  the  rebel  Arabs,  wo  establiahcil  our  residence  in  the  western  temple. 
I  then  began,  assisted  by  my  two  servants,  to  make  a  more  careful  ex- 
amination of  the  monuments." 

Cailliaud  found  the  largest  temple  to  be  two  hundred  and  seventy 
feet  in  length,  including  the  pylon  and  avenue  of  sphinxes.  "The 
sculptures  of  the  interior  are  almost  entirely  destroyed.  This  state  of 
degradation  is  owing,  I  suppose,  to  the  insignificant  height  of  the  walls 
and  the  action  of  the  tropical  rains.  The  figures  are  without  the  indi- 
cation of  a  beard,  so  common  in  the  sculptures  of  the  Egyptian  temples. 
The  peculiar  character  of  their  costume,  and  the  embonpoint  of  their 
figures,  give  evidence  of  a  people  quite  distinct  fVom  the  ancient  Egyp- 
tians, but  who,  nevertheless,  appear  to  have  had  the  same  symbolic 
writing  and  the  same  religious  ideas."  For  three  days  and  a  half  the 
traveler  remained  among  these  ruins,  sketching  by  day  and  writing  by 
night ;  but  his  supply  of  water  was  getting  low,  and  the  desire  of  exam- 
ining El-MesQWurat  before  returning  to  Shendy,  obliged  him  to  leave. 

The  ruins  of  Mesowurat  are  about  six  hours'  travel  north-east  of 
Naga.  "  I  was  struck  with  astonishment,"  writes  Cailliaud,  "  on  ap- 
proaching the  immense  ruins  which  were  exhibited  to  my  gaze.  I  wan- 
dered from  court  to  court,  from  temple  to  temple,  from  one  chamber  to 
another,  traversing  the  corridors  and  galleries  which  connect  the  differ- 
ent structures.  In  this  rapid  survey  I  counted  eight  temples  or  sanctu- 
aries, forty-one  chambers,  twenty-four  courts,  and  three  galleries,  all 
surrounded  with  walls,  and  occupying  a  space  two  thousand  five  hundred 
feet  in  circumference.  On  returning  to  my  guides,  I  discovered  that  we 
had  only  water  enough  for  twenty-four  hours.  My  intention  was  to 
remain  here  five  or  six  days.  I  proposed  to  the  men  to  go  to  the  Nile 
and  replenish  the  stock,  but  was  obliged  to  pay  them  extravagantly 
before  they  would  consent.  I  mounted  on  the  most  elevated  waU  of 
the  central  edifice,  where  my  eye  overlooked  all  the  ruins.  There,  care- 
fully studying  the  distribution  of  the  different  edifices  around  me,  I 
became  convinced  that  they  formerly  belonged  to  a  college.  Were  these 
silent  solitudes,  I  asked  myseltj  ever  animated  by  the  boisterous  sports 
of  youth  ?  Have  these  ruins  ever  resounded  with  the  voices  of  the  pro- 
fessors ?  Yes,  these  rude  figures  of  birds  and  animals  traced  on  the 
walls,  are  the  work  of  childbh  hands ;  these  names,  engraved  in  Ethio- 
pian characters,  are  those  of  students ;  and  these  others,  in  Greek,  are 
without  doubt  those  of  strangers,  whom  the  celebrity  of  the  institution 
has  attracted. 


i 


IMMI 


282 


CAILLIAUD'S   JOURNEY    TO    ETHIOPIA. 


"  However  extensive  are  those  ruins  of  Mesowurat,  nothing  had  led 
me  to  conjecture  that  the  place  could  ever  have  been  the  site  of  a  city. 
I  found  neither  tombs  nor  any  great  number  of  ordinary  habitations. 
A  matter  worthy  of  notice  is  the  small  size  of  the  stones  employed  in 
the  construction  of  the  temples.  Taking  into  consideration  this  want  of 
strength  and  solidity  in  the  materials,  in  a  cUmate  where  the  rairi  falls 
for  three  months  in  the  year,  one  is  led  to  believe  that  the  ruins  which 
remain  have  not,  like  those  of  Thebes,  resisted  the  injuries  of  time  dur- 
ing a  long  course  of  ages.  They  evidently  do  not  possess  a  very  great 
antiquity.  The  tradition  of  the  country  is  that  the  name  of  El-Mesow- 
urat  was  that  of  the  ancient  fakeers  who  inhabited  these  vast  edifices. 
This  tradition  confirms  the  opinion  that  the  place  was  devoted  to  edu- 
cation." 

Cailliaud  returned  to  Shcndy  on  the  2d  of  April,  where  he  found 
that  M.  Letorzcc  had  set  out  for  Egypt  ten  days  beforehand.  He  im- 
mc  iiately  followed,  by  way  of  the  Pyramids  of  Meroe  and  Darner,  and 
reavhcd  El-Mekheyref,  in  Berber,  after  a  journey  of  five  days.  Find- 
ing that  his  companion  was  still  six  days  in  advance,  and  hurrying 
toward  Egypt,  he  halted  but  a  day  to  procure  some  provisions  from  the 
governor  (the  province  having  been  completely  stripped  by  the  army), 
and  then  continued  his  course  through  the  country  of  Robatat,  to  Dje- 
bel  Berkel.  Passing  Abou-Hammed,  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
great  bend  of  the  Nile,  and  the  long  island  of  Mokrat,  he  at  last  over- 
took M.  Letorzec  on  the  18th,  at  a  place  called  El-Kab.  The  latter  was 
very  much  exhausted  by  the  fever,  which  obliged  them  to  travel  with 
less  rapidity,  and  they  were  therefore  eight  days  more  in  reaching 
Mount  Berkel. 

Cailliaud  remained  at  this  place  more  than  two  weeks,  in  order  to 
make  a  complete  survey  of  the  ruins.  "  Every  morning,  at  sunrise,"  he 
says,  "  I  repaired  to  the  ruins,  and  I  did  not  leave  them  until  night.  In 
the  middle  of  the  day,  I  occupied  myself  in  drawing  the  interior  sculpt- 
ures of  the  typhonium,  and  the  sanctuaries  of  the  pyramids,  where  I 
sought  a  shelter  against  the  excessive  heat,  which  was  often  105°  in  the 
shade.  Mount  Berkel,  isolated  on  the  desert  plain,  is  a  mass  of  sand- 
stone about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  circumference.  Its  southern  side 
is  a  naked  precipice  two  hundred  feet  high,  at  the  base  of  which  are 
the  temples,  all  facing  the  river.  Among  the  sculptures  are  two  car- 
touches, which,  according  to  ChampoUion,  contain  the  name  of  Tirhaka^ 
the  first  king  of  the  Ethiopian  dynasty  who  invaded  Egypt,  in  the  eighth 
century  before  the  Christian  era.  The  style  of  the  figures  and  orna- 
ments is  the  pure  style  of  the  monuments  of  Egypt  and  Lower  Nubia. 
That  part  of  the  temple  which  is  excavated  in  the  mountain,  is  in  a  good 
state  of  preservation.  East  of  the  typhonium  there  are  many  remains 
of  walls  and  fragments  of  columns,  extending  for  some  distance.  Among 
these  I  discovered  two  lions  of  rose-colored  granite,  of  Egyptian  style 
and  beautiful  form.     ♦    *    *    Every  thing  goes  to  prove  that  the  vast 


OPIA. 

t,  nothing  had  led 
the  site  of  a  city, 
linary  habitations, 
onea  employed  in 
ration  this  want  of 
lero  the  rain  falls 
it  the  ruins  which 
juries  of  time  dur- 
osscss  a  very  great 
ime  of  El-Mesow- 
these  vast  edifices. 
I  devoted  to  edu- 

1,  where  he  found 
forehand.  He  im- 
>6  and  Damer,  and 
'  five  days.  Find- 
ice,  and  hurrying 
•rovisions  from  the 
iped  by  the  army), 
r  Robatat,  to  Dje- 
1  extremity  of  the 
'at,  he  at  last  over- 
b.  The  latter  was 
em  to  travel  with 
more  in  reaching 

« 

vecks,  in  order  to 
ing,  at  sunrise,"  he 
!m  until  night.  In 
the  interior  sculpt- 
pyramids,  where  I 
is  often  105°  in  the 
is  a  mass  of  sand- 
Its  southern  side 
!  base  of  which  are 
Jtures  are  two  car- 
e  name  of  Tirhaka, 
!gypt,  in  the  eighth 
e  figures  and  oma- 
ind  Lower  Nubia, 
untain,  is  in  a  good 
!  are  many  remains 
e  distance.  Among 
i,  of  Egyptian  style 
rove  that  the  vast 


CROSSING    THE   NUBIAN    DESERT. 


288 


ruins  of  Mount  Bcrkcl  are  those  of  the  city  of  Napata,  the  ancient 
capital  of  Ethiopia,  of  which  the  pyramids  of  Noori  were  the  necro- 
polis. 

"  On  the  1 2th  of  May,  my  designs  and  observations  being  finished, 
I  made  preparations  for  my  departure.  Knowing  that  I  should  find 
no  more  antiquities  on  either  bank  of  the  Nile,  I  resolved  to  cross  the 
desert  in  a  north-western  course,  hoping  that  on  the  line  of  communica- 
tion between  Napata  and  the  island  of  Argo  there  might  bo  something 
worthy  of  notice.  Wo  laid  in  a  large  supply  of  water,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  13th  struck  into  the  desert.  There  w  -  no  path  across 
the  arid  plains ;  the  night  came,  and  our  guide  regulated  his  march  by 
the  stars.  About  one  o'clock  in  the  morning,  not  being  able  to  conquer 
our  drowsiness,  we  halted  and  took  two  hours'  rest.  At  nine  o'clock, 
the  thermometer  stood  at  108°.  We  pitched  our  tent  and  tried  to  sleep, 
but  in  vain ;  the  intense  heat  obliged  us  to  drink  a  little  water  and 
bathe  our  faces  every  half  hour.  At  one  o'clock  the  temperature  inside 
of  the  tent  was  117°.  The  desert  was  an  immense  plain  of  naked  sand 
and  sandstone  rock ;  some  fragments  of  petrified  palms,  scattered  here 
and  there,  seemed  to  attest  that  nature  was  for  ever  dead  in  these  fright- 
iul  solitudes,  and  tlie  rays  of  a  burning  sun,  reflected  from  the  incan- 
descent sands,  pierced  our  eyes  with  their  terrible  power." 

The  next  night  they  stopped  to  take  two  hours'  sleep,  but  were  so 
fatigued  that  they  slept  four  and  a  half,  which  obliged  them  to  travel 
until  eleven  o'clock,  at  which  time  the  thermometer  stood  at  118"  in  the 
shade.  The  Khamseen,  or  desert-wind,  began  to  blow ;  the  atmosphere 
was  charged  Avith  clouds  of  sand,  and  the  sun  gave  but  a  dim  and  lurid 
light.  This  place  was  called  by  the  Arabs  the  Salamdt  (Welcome). 
They  left  in  the  afternoon  and  made  a  march  of  seventeen  hours,  during 
Avliich  they  found  it  almost  impossible  to  keep  their  seats  on  the  camels, 
from  drowsiness  and  fatigue.  Owing  to  tlie  great  evaporation  and  the 
thirst  of  the  party,  the  water  had  diminished  so  rapidly,  that  Cailliaud 
put  the  Arabs  on  allowance,  "but  this  precaution  was  hardly  neces- 
sary," says  he,  "  for  we  were  near  the  Nile.  Presently  we  perceived, 
in  the  distance,  a  zone  of  verdure  along  the  horizon,  and  at  seven  in 
the  evening  we  had  completed  this  inconsiderate  journey,  for  there  was 
no  monument  of  any  kind  to  repay  us  for  our  toil  and  danger.  Wo 
found  ourselves  in  the  province  of  Dongola,  opposite  the  island  of  Argo, 
and  had  thus,  at  least,  shortened  our  journey  six  days." 

After  passing  Tombos,  where  ho  found  a  gninite  colossus  of  Egyptian 
workmanship,  Cailliaud  conceived  the  idea  of  visiting  the  Oasis  of  Seli- 
meh,  which  lies  in  the  Libyan  Desert,  throe  days'  journey  west  of  the 
Nile,  on  the  caravan  route  from  Egypt  to  Dar-Fur.  He  set  out  on  the 
25th  of  May,  accompanied  by  M.  Letorzec  and  two  Arabs.  They  had 
a  painful  journey  of  thirty  hours  over  the  burning  desert,  and  at  last 
came  in  sight  of  Soliraeh.  "  Before  descending  into  the  valley,"  says 
the  traveler,  "  I  gazed  eagerly  over  the  beautiful  verdure  of  the  palms, 


I 


Ml 


284  OAILLIAUD'8  JOURNEY   TO   ETHIOPIA. 

.Wch  contrasted  «>  ^tHkingl^  with  th^  andi^ 
them;  but  I  sought  in  vam  ^J'*  "^  ^  t  ecst^Y     With  ^vL  bit- 
fore  which,  the  Arabs  said  I  should  stand  >» J««^^^  ,^. 

,en.ess  I  eursed  -7  ^^  ^^^^Tr^r^l^rZ  disappointLnt 
SS  e^n^dtoXat  the  oasis  to  rest^^^^^^^^^^ 
forced  marches,  reached  the  Nile  ag^  on  thj  ^let  ofMay 

He  paid  another  visit  to  the  temple  of  Soleb,  examme  k 

cant  ruL  at  An^rah  -d  ^jj-  cont«.ue^  -rendCtht  Nile,^» 
where  ho  arrived  on  the  13th  ot  J«Be      vy  ^^  ^^^.^^^ 

week  afterward,  he  met  * ^"^f  .^^^ ^^^^is  ;S to Dongola.  "His 
was  Captain  Gordon,  «^  ^nghsh  tra^ler^  his^^^^^  S^  ^  ^^^^^^ 

project,  like  mine,  was  to  ^^^^^^f  ^^l^fenter^^^^^  alone ;  but 
mariner,  firmly  resolved  to  "°f 'J^^' P'^^  ^^^^  imprudently,  too 
he  perished  Uke  so  many  others.    He  ^egf,  ramer      P  ^  ^ 

soon  to  adopt  the  hard  life  and  -f  ^^^^^^f^^^^^^^^^^  the  water 
of  drawers  and  a  shirt  J^f  ,^«.t'S^eZ^^^^^^^  W  ^i 

and  swam  f  7.'^«'",  f  .^"  ^^X^,  accustom  himself  to  support  the 
nourishing  food,  m  order  that  he  ""S^J  ^^'^  widerco.  Such  devotion 
privations  and  fatigues  which  ^% "Pf.^^f^^^^^^  m,  and  died  be- 

and  resolution  were  not  rewarded  with  success.    He  leU  lu, 

fore  reaching  Senna&r"  j^  Letorzec  with  the  baggage 

On  reaching  Asbou^.  Cajhaud  ^^  ^^  ^^  ^^  j.^^ney  with 

and  collections  m  a  boat  to  Ihebes,  f^^J  ^^^        ^  ^^^^],  ty 

his  camels,  in  order  to  visit  he  '7«  ?f  f  ^*^^  ^f^^,  a  On  the  6th 
the  way.    He  did  not  tarry  long  ^J.^^^J^f^e  splendid  remains 

of  July,"  he  writes,  "I^-^-f^^^^^dtd^^^^^  again  beheld 
of  Mcdeenet-Abou     With  ^»^at  pleasure  ^     ^^^^y,  ^^^^j. 

those  propylons^  those  immense  porticoes  ^-^  «^«"  J^^^^  ^loomeh, 
five  centuries  have  respected  l^J^^^^J^^^^^  ^^  Egypt.  Nothing 
where  I  fomid  M.  Letorzec,  quite  «f;^f  ^^^^^  *^^^^^^  to  see  us 

in  my  house  had  ^^^-^^f^^l  ^"^ich  so  mly  others  had  lost 
E^r^'T^rs^t^oin^r^^^^^  -obstacle 

not  previously  visited,  and  was  about  f  ""^  «f  J™^^  ruined  tem- 
,     Greit  Oasis,for  the  V-rVO^,ofe..r^^^g^<^^^^^^^^^  ^^  „j  ^,^ 

pie  there,  when  some  Arab  ^"''g^^^'^T^ya TiS  Jgiv e  up  the  under- 
carried  off  all  his  ready  money,  ^^^  obhged  h'^,*"  g^^^  P  ^^^ 
taking.  Leaving  Thebes,  finally  wirtih-^^^^^  ^^.^^^  ^^^ 
Nile  rapidly  and  reached  Cairo  on  thB  2^^;  J'^^*      ^^^^^  fo^  Mar- 

Alexandria  on  the  30th  of  October,  m  a  ^"^f  ?^  ?"g  ^wly  escaped 
seiUes.    The  passage  was  very  stormy,  and  .the  brig  narrowly  es    peu 


>PIA. 

:,ho  sands  sroond 
autiful  temple,  be- 
.  With  what  bit- 
tn,  from  long  ex- 
lis  disappointment 
then,  returning  by 
'May. 

nined  the  insignifi- 
te  to  Wadi  Haifa, 
lending  the  Nile,  a 
on  board  of  -which 
to  Dongola.    "  His 
Ho  was  a  robust 
terprise  alone ;  but 
sr  imprudently,  too 
s ;  like  them,  a  pair 
aged  into  the  water 
jrupulously  from  all 
tnselfto  support  the 
•go.    Such  devotion 
I  fell  ill,  and  died  be- 

ic  with  the  baggage 
lis  own  journey  with 
Edfoo,  and  Esnch  by 
places :  "  On  the  6th 
■  the  splendid  remiuns 
ration  I  agsun  beheld 
nnades,  which  thirty- 
I  reached  Goomeh, 
r  of  Egypt.  Nothing    ' 
sd  delighted  to  see  us 
many  others  had  lost 
ttch  port ;  no  obstacle 

September,  employing 
Memnon's  tomb.    He 
er  ruins  which  he  had 
on  another  trip  to  the 
refuUy  the  ruined  tem- 
jd  his  house  at  night, 
I  to  give  up  the  under- 
lion,  he  descended  the 
le  travelers  sailed  from 
3  brig  bound  for  Mar- 
brig  narrowly  escaped 


RETURN    TO    PRANCE. 


286 


shipwreck  off  the  Sardinian  coast,  but  on  the  1 1th  of  December  anchored 
in  the  harbor  of  Marseilles.  The  very  next  vessel  which  arrived  from 
Egypt  brought  the  news  of  the  terrible  fivto  of  Ismail  Pasha,  his  staff, 
and  fifly  of  his  troops,  in  Shendy.  Mek  Nemr,  who  had  sworn  venge- 
ance against  him,  persuaded  him  to  attend  a  festival  held  in  a  largo 
building  some  distance  from  the  Egyptian  camp,  and  having  surrounded 
the  place  in  the  night  with  combustible  materials,  set  fire  to  it  and 
burned  to  death  all  who  were  within. 

Cailliaud's  account  of  his  journey,  in  four  octavo  volumes,  with  an  ac- 
companying folio  containing  maps,  plans,  and  engravings,  was  published 
in  Paris  in  1826.  It  is  from  this  edition  that  the  present  abridgement 
has  been  prepared. 


-1 


MM 


,¥■■■ 
1^. 


-7^1 


f^^^^oirrr-rcT^TTTT^T^^ 


-Maik- 


.TAwrrv^   jl^«^ 


FRAN  KLIN'S 


OVERLAND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


In  the  year  1819,  the  British  Government  determined  to  send  an  ex- 
pedition by  land  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  explore  the  northern  coast  of 
America  from  the  month  of  the  Coppermine  River  eastward.  Captain, 
afterward  Sir  John  Franklin,  was  appointed  to  the  command,  with  Dr. 
John  Richardson,  and  Messrs.  George  Back  and  Robert  Hood,  midship- 
men, as  associates.  Captain  Franklin  also  took  with  him  John  Hepburn, 
an  English  seaman ;  the  rest  of  the  party  were  to  consist  of  Canadian 
hunters  and  voyageurs.  They  embarked  at  Gravesend  on  the  23d  of 
May,  1819,  on  board  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company's  ship  Prince  of  Wales^ 
and  after  touching  at  Stromness,  in  the  Orkney  Islands,  where  they  pro- 
cured four  skillful  boatmen,  reached  York  Factory,  in  Hudson's  Bay,  on 
the  30th  of  August,  after  a  very  stormy  and  perilous  voyage. 

According  to  the  advice  of  the  officers  at  the  Factory,  Franklin  de- 
termined to  take  the  route  by  Cumberland  House,  and  through  the 
chain  of  trading-posts  to  Great  Slave  Lake.  Having  procured  a  boat, 
with  a  steersman  who  acted  also  as  guide,  the  party  commenced  their 
march  into  the  interior  on  the  9th  of  September.  They  made  the  jour- 
ney up  Hayes  and  Hill  Rivers  very  slowly,  owing  to  the  strength  of  the 
current,  and  were  finally  obliged  to  leave  part  of  their  supplies  behind,  in 
the  charge  of  some  of  the  Company's  traders,  who  promised  to  forward 
them  the  next  spring.  On  passing  the  White  Fall,  Franklin  slipped  into 
the  river- and  was  on  the  point  of  being  carried  over,  when  he  happened 
to  seize  a  wiUow  branch  strong  enough  to  sustain  him.  They  arrived  at 
Norway  House,  on  Lake  Winnipeg,  on  the  6th  of  October,  after  which 
they  traveled  with  more  rapidity,  and  reached  Cumberland  House,  on 
the  Saskatchawan,  on  the  23d  of  the  same  month. 

By  this  time  the  ice  was  forming  in  the  rivers,  and  it  was  impossible 
to  proceed  further  by  boats.  The  whole  party  remained  at  Cumberland 
House  until  the  middle  of  January,  accustoming  themselves  to  the  life 
they  were  thenceforth  to  lead,  and  inaking  preparations  for  the  journey 

19 


* 


"jM        ^ANEl'^^^tHHEV   TO  TU«    POLAR   SKA. 

..Uiou.    Th.y  have  -»"«. '^'™:„J'tri  aT«  »  8""''  '■"•■«  "' 

their  expense.    One  ot  m  su        •'.^,,^  ;,,,n,„jiiately  bocan  to  trumpet 

during  Franklin's  residence  there.        "«    ~  his  ha.uk 

forth  his  powers,  boastu.g,  among  ^^^"f  J^f 'X„  ph^eed  hi  a  conjur- 

„,1  feet  were  tied  as  securely  as  P°«  '^'«J.J,,^  ;,;?;"  ^e  aid  of  two  or 

i„..ho«se,  he  wouhl  speedily  <l'«">g^g;  '~  2,      „,  ^^s  instantly 

U."ee  familiar  spirits  -^^^^^  ^rt  ^ ^^^^^^  without  an  aim,     | 

taken  at  his  word,  and,  that  his  cxc mo.     j,  ^^^^^^^     ^  ^^,^ 

a  capot  or  great-coat  was  l«f  -«    '^  lal  form,  that  is,  by  sticking     I 

juving-house  having  ^'^^^^''^ti^Jthe    ton^^^^^^^  hoop  at  the  height 
i.r  willows  in  the  grcnim^a^^^^^^^^^^  ^  ,,,,r^ 

of  six  or  eight  feet,  he  ^^a«  ^Jiu't  f^-^-   '  and  placed  in  its  nar- 

fathoms  of  rope  around  h.8  body  and  cxtremm^^^^^^         A  moose-skin 
row  apartment,  not  exceedmg     wo  fi^^^^^^^^  „^ 

.     being  then  thrown  over  the  *.'-a'«<''/^^'"^  .  monotonous  tone.     , 

1     forti:;vith  began  to  chant  a  kmd  of  hymn   "  ^^^^  .j       ^he 

The  rest  of  the  Indians,  who  ^^-"'^d^^^^^^^^^^       Z.o  of  aN^hite  man,     ; 
powers  of  a  devil  when  put  m  ^^omif^^^^  with  anxiety.    In  this 
Ranged  t^-clves  aro-^^^^^^^^  atte.ion,  which 

manner  an  hour  and  a  halt  «'»?'''  shaki.ic  of  the  conjurmg- 

had  begun  to  flag,  was  -"^^^^^ f  ^/J^ftht^       that  at  least  one 
house.    It  was  instantly  whispered  «  ««"^  \^«  '  ^  ^o  be  only  the 

devil  had  crept  under  the  moo«e^km     B«^^    P^°;,^^^  ,,,,,    He  had 
»  God-like  man  "  (as  ^c  called  himselt)ten.W^^^^^  ^^^^^ 

entered  the  lists  ^^"PFd^oJ^^^^^^^^^^^  ,,,,ever,  with  con- 

low  that  evcmng.    Hw  ""^""P*',  T./^^^r  when  he  reluctantly  gave 

!     siderablc  resoUition  for  half  an    -".  ^^^^^^^^^  ,he  noose  when  it 

1     in.    He  had  found  no  difficiUty  "J  f'W"S  ^^  i„,tance,  the  knot 

>     was  formed  by  his  countrymen ;  but,  /"  ^^«  P™''"  .j^,     ^fter  this  un- 

\     was  tied  by  ^o-nior  .W"^r;a"k\m^in^^^^^^^^^^^^  ,he  earliest 

;     successful  exhibition  his  c'^«d>%«'^"^^,^"'J""f7' 

;     opportunity  of  sneaking  away  from  «ie  Fort  ^^^  ^^  h^^j 

Franklin  divided  his  coinpany,  leaving  Dr.  Ku^^a  ^^^^ 

nt  Cumberland  House  untU  the  BP™g'  *"d  t^kin^jxt  ^^.^,^^^^ 

:     BackaiidHep^™.    H-eto^^^^^^^^ 

with  two  dog-sleds  by  the  Compwiy  «   S       '  jjouso  after  a  walk 

he  had  taken  into  his  servic  .    He  ^te  Englishmen  suffetsd  greatly 
of  fourteen  days,  during  which  t*^;^"/^        h^^.^     T^e  weather  was 

'     from  the  "— oTrteat  a^!  fI^^^^^^  the  tin  pots  before 

intensely  cold :      Our  tea,    si^y".'        nf  smrits  and  water  became  quite 


lR    SKA. 

i('.ssin<j  the  liabits 
rt.     Tlii'se  people 
,  and  very  super- 
who  take  advan- 
e  a  good  livi'g  at 
imberlaiid  IIouso 
began  to  truiupet 
lUhougli  his  hands 
phiced  in  a  conjur- 
he  aid  of  two  or 
lie  was  instantly 
be  without  an  aim, 
lis  success.     A  con- 
that  is,  by  sticking 
hoop  at  the  height 
ly  winding   several 
id  placed  in  its  nar- 
tcr.    A  moose-skin 
rom  our  view.    Ho 
•y  monotonous  tone, 
aubt  respecting  the 
lose  of  a- white  man, 
ith  anxiety.    In  this 
our  attention,  which 
iig  of  the  c<Mijuruig- 
ule,  that  at  least  one 
•ovcd  to  bo  only  the 
with  cold.    He  had 
rmometer  stood  very 
,  however,  with  con- 
n  he  reluctantly  gave 
gh  the  noose  when  it 
nt  instance,  the  knot 
sailor.    After  this  un- 
id  he  took  the  earliest 

lardson  and  Mr.  Hood 
ig  with  him  only  Mr. 
nuary,  1820,  furnished 
some  Canadians  whom 
on  House  after  a  walk 
imen  suffetsd  greatly 
?s.  The  weather  was 
in  the  tin  pots  before 
[id  water  became  quite 
rest,  we  felt  no  incon- 


PREPARATIONS    AT    FORT    CHIPEWYAN. 


291 


venience."  Tlio  day  before  reaching  Carlton  House,  they  consumed 
their  last  provisions.  Here  they  took  a  few  days'  rest,  in  order  to  re- 
cover from  their  fatigue,  and  procure  supplies  for  the  further  journey. 

They  started  again  on  tlie  8tli  of  February,  and,  with  tlie  exception 
of  a  short  regt  at  Fort  La  Crosse,  continued  their  journey  to  Fort  Chipe- 
wyan,  on  Athabasca  Lake,  where  they  arrived  on  the  26th  of  March. 
"Thus,"  says  Franklin,  "terminated  a  winter  journey  of  eight  hundred 
and  fifty-seven  miles,  in  the  progress  of  which  there  was  a  great  amount 
of  agreeable  and  disagreeable  circumstances :  could  the  amount  of  each 
bo  balanced,  I  suspect  the  latter  would  much  preponderate.  Among 
these,  the  initiation  into  walking  on  snow-shoes  must  be  considered  as 
prominent.  The  next  evil  is  the  being  constantly  exposed  to  witness 
the  wanton  and  unnecessary  cruelty  of  the  men  to  their  dogs,  especially 
those  of  the  Canadians,  who  beat  them  unmercifully.  There  arc  other 
inconveniences,  which,  though  keenly  felt  during  the  day's  journey,  are 
speedily  forgotten,  when,  stretched  out  in  the  encampment  before  a 
largo  fire,  yon  enjoy  the  social  mirth  of  your  companions,  who  usually 
pass  the  evening  in  recounting  their  former  feats  in  traveling." 

As  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr.  Hood  were  to  wait  at  Cumberland  House 
until  the  opening  of  river  navigation  in  the  spring,  Franklin  was  obliged 
to  wait  at  Chipewyan  House  for  their  arrival,  which  did  not  take  place 
until  the  1 3th  of  July.  He  made  use  of  the  intervening  time  in  sending 
messages  to  the  chief  of  the  Coppermine  Indians,  who  professed  his  will- 
ingness to  assist  him  in  his  explorations,  in  engaging  boatmen  and  in- 
terpreters, and  building  xanoes,  and  in  preparing  dispatches  for  England. 
Richardson  and  Hood  brought  along  two  canoes,  but  the  pemraioan 
with  which  they  had  been  supplied  by  the  agents  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  proved  to  be  so  moldy,  that  they  threw  it  away,  and  they  had 
but  provisions  for  one  day  on  arriving  at  Fort  Chipewyan.  Franklin 
obtained  all  the  supplies  that  could  be  spared  from  the  fort,  but  could 
obtain  neither  ammunition  nor  spirits,  and  but  little  tobacco.  Ho  says : 
"  "We  then  made  a  final  arrangement  respecting  the  voyageurs  who  were 
to  accompany  the  party ;  and  fortunately  there  was  no  difliculty  in  doing 
this,  as  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr.  Hood  had  taken  the  very  judicious 
precaution  of  bringing  up  ten  men  from  Cumberland,  who  were  engaged 
to  proceed  forward  if  their  services  were  required.  These  men  were 
most  desirous  of  being  continued,  and  we  felt  sincere  pleasure  in  being 
able  to  keep  men  who  were  so  zealous  in  the  cause,  and  wlio  had  given 
proofe  of  their  activity  on  their  recent  passage  to  this  place,  by  discharg- 
ing those  men  who  were  less  willing  to  undertake  the  journey.  When 
the  numbers  were  completed  which  we  had  bcL-n  recommended  by  the 
traders  to  take  as  a  protection  against  the  Esquimaux,  we  had  sixteen 
Canadian  voyageurs,  and  our  worthy  and  only  English  attendant,  John 
Hepburn,  besides  the  two  interpreters  whom  wc  were  to  receive  at  the 
Great  Slave  Lake ;  we  were  also  accompanied  by  a  Chipewyan  woman. 
An  equipment  of  goods  was  given  to  each  of  the  men  ;  and  when  this 


f 


I 


292 


FRANKLIN'S   JOURNEY    TO    THE    POLAR    SEA. 


distribution  hnd  been  made,  the  remainder  were  made  up  into  bales, 
preparatory  to  our  departure  on  the  following  day,  the  18th  of  July." 

Their  stock  of  provisions  was  only  sufficient  for  one  day's  consump- 
tion, exclusive  of  two  barrels  of  flour,  three  cases  of  preserved  moats, 
with  some  chocolate,  arrow-root,  and  portable  soup,  which  they  had 
brought  from  England  and  intended  to  reserve  for  their  exploring  tour 
along  the  coast  next  summer.  The  scarcity  of  food  did  not  in  the  least 
depress  the  Canadians,  who  paddled  otf,  singing,  into  the  Slave  Iltver. 
This  is  a  magnificent  stream,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  but  inter- 
rupted by  occasional  rapids.  Their  voyage  down  it  was  without  incident, 
and  in  six  days  they  reached  the  trading  post  on  Moose  Deer  Island,  in 
Great  Slave  Lake.  Here  Franklin  engaged  St.  Gennain,  an  interpreter 
for  the  Copper  Indians,  and  obtained  five  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  of 
dried  meat.  He  then  crossed  the  lake  to  Fort  Providence,  on  the 
northern  side,  where  he  found  Mr.  Wentzcl,  one  of  the  Company's 
clerks,  who  intended  to  accompany  the  expedition  to  the  Coppermine 
River,  together  with  Adam,  an  interpreter,  and  one  of  the  Indian 
guides.  The  chief  of  the  tribe,  who  was  encamped  in  the  neighborhood, 
was  at  once  sent  for,  and  a  grand  council  was  held  on  bis  arrival,  which 
terminated  in  his  agreeing  to  accompany  Franklin.  His  name  was 
Akaitcho,  or  Big-foot.  After  the  council  was  over,  presents  wore  dis- 
tributed to  him  and  his  braves,  and  the  ceremonies  terminated  with  an 
Indian  dance. 

The  party  left  Fort  Providence  on  the  2d  of  August.  "  Our  stores,'* 
says  Franklin,  "  consisted  of  two  barrels  of  gunpowder,  one  hundred 
and  forty  pounds  of  balls  and  small  shot,  four  fowling-pieces,  a  few  old 
trading-guns,  eight  pistols,  twenty-four  Indian  daggers,  some  packages 
of  knives,  chisels,  axes,  naUs,  and  fastenings  for  a  boat,  a  few  yards  of 
cloth,  some  blankets,  needles,  looking-glasses,  and  beads,  together  with 
nine  fishing-nets,  having  meshes  of  different  sizes."  There  were  twenty- 
eight  persons  in  all,  including  the  wives  of  three  of  the  voyageurs,  who 
went  along  for  the  purpose  of  making  shoes  and  clothes  for  the  men  in 
their  winter  quarters.  Fort  Providence  is  the  last  trading  establishment, 
and  the  country  beyond  it  had  never  before  been  visited  by  any  Euro- 
pean. They  ascended  Yellow-knife  River,  which  flows  into  Great  Slave 
Loke  from  the  north  east,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-six  miles, 
passing  through  a  chain  of  lakes,  between  which  there  were  many  rapids, 
requiring  portage  of  the  canoes.  They  then  crossed  a  barren  water-shed 
for  thirty  miles,  carrying  their  canoes  from  lake  to  lake,  until,  on  the 
20th,  they  reached  a  river  mnning  to  the  north-west,  on  the  banks  of 
which  the  chief|  Akaitcho,  proposed  they  should  establish  their  winter 
quarters.  **  We  found  that  the  situation  they  had  chosen  possessed  all 
the  advantages  we  could  desire.  The  trees  were  numerous,  and  of  afar 
greater  size  than  we  had  supposed  them  to  be  on  a  distant  view,  some 
of  the  pines  being  thirty  or  forty  feet  high,  and  two  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  root.    We  determined  on  placing  the  house  on  the  summit  of  the 


S.R    SBA. 

(Ic  up  into  bales, 
B  18th  of  July." 
e  day's  consump- 
preservcd  moats, 
,  which  they  had 
leir  exploring  tour 
iid  not  in  the  least 
the  Slave  Iliver. 
Ic  wide,  but  inter- 
i  without  incident, 
)8e  Deer  Island,  in 
aain,an  interpreter 
jid  fifty  pounds  of 
I'rovidence,  on  the 
of  the  Company's 
to  the  Coppermine 
one  of  the  Indian 
I  the  neighborhood, 
m  his  arrival,  which 
in.     His  name  was 
r,  presents  wore  dis- 
terminated  with  an 

just.  "  Our  stores,'* 
(owder,  one  hundred 
ling-pieces,  a  few  old 
ijgcrs,  some  packages 

boat,  a  few  yards  of 
beads,  together  with 
There  were  twenty- 
f  the  voyageurs,  who 
iothes  for  the  men  in 
trading  establishment, 

visited  by  any  Euro- 
flows  into  Great  Slave 
•cd  and  fifty-six  miles, 
icre  were  many  rapids, 
}d  a  barren  water-shed 

to  lake,  until,  on  the 
west,  on  the  banks  of 

establish  their  winter 
d  chosen  possessed  all 
numerous,  and  of  a  fer 
1  a  distant  view,  some 
wo  feet  in  diameter  at 
on  the  summit  of  the 


WINTER    qUARTKRS. 


296 


bank,  which  commands  a  lieaui,iful  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country. 
In  the  afternoon  we  read  divine  servioo,  ami  olTcrvd  our  thankitgiving  to 
tlio  Almighty  for  his  goodness  in  having  brought  us  thus  tiir  on  our 
journey." 

AkaitcliQ,  however,  broke  hia  promise  of  accompanying  Franklin  to 
the  Coppermine  Uiver,  alleging  that  the  season  was  now  too  far  ad- 
vanced, and  his  tribe  were  obliged  to  procure  deer-skins  for  the  winter. 
No  persuasion  could  induce  him  to  change  his  decision  ;  so,  after  mature 
deliberation,  Franklin  gave  up  the  idea  of  reaching  the  sea  until  the 
next  summer.  lie  thought  it  prudent,  however,  to  send  a  party  to  ex- 
plore the  upper  waters  of  the  Coppermine,  and  ascertain  its  rapids,  etc., 
and  dispatched  Back  and  Hood,  with  St.  Germain,  the  interpreter,  and 
eight  Canadians, '  n  this  duty.  Soon  after  they  left,  he  left  Mr.  Went- 
zel  to  superintend  the  building  of  the  fort,  and  started  with  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson on  a  pedestrian  journey  to  the  Coppermine.  Both  parties  were 
only  absent  about  ten  days,  and  on  their  return  found  that  the  winter* 
house,  which  they  named  Fort  Enterprise,  was  already  rooied  in. 


rOKT  ENTXRPRISB. 

"  On  the  6th  of  October,"  says  Franklin,  "  the  house  being  com- 
pleted, we  struck  our  tents,  and  moved  into  it.  It  was  merely  a  log 
building,  fifty  feet  long  and  twenty-four  wide,  divided  into  a  hall,  three 
bed-rooms,  and  a  kitchen.  The  walls  and  roof  were  plastered  with  clay, 
the  floors  laid  with  planks  rudely  b4i:ared  with  the  hatchet,  and  the 
windows  closed  with  parchment  of  deer-skin."  They  now  went  to  work 
to  secure  a  good  supply  of  provisions  for  the  winter,  and,  with  the  as- 
Bistance  of  the  Indians,  had  stored  away,  by  the  middle  of  October,  one 


i 


mmm 


'Mi 


294 


FRANKLIN'S  JOURNEY  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


hundred  and  eighty  deer,  together  with  one  thousand  per  .ids  of  suet, 
and  some  dried  meat.  On  the  18th,  Messrs.  Back  and  Wentzel  set  out 
for  Fort  Providence,  with  two  Canadians  and  two  Indians,  to  attend  to 
the  transporting  of  the  stores  which  Frankhn  expected  to  receive  from 
Cumberland  House.  In  the  following  month  one  of  the  Canadipns  re- 
turned, stating  that  the  supplies  had  not  arrived;  that  Mr.  Weeks, 
the  company's  agent  at  Fort  IVovidence,  was  endeavoring  to  prejudice 
the  Indians  against  them,  and  that  Mr.  Back  would  probably  be  obliged 
to  continue  his  journey  to  Fort  Chipewyan  to  obtain  supplies.  All  these 
disappointments  were  very  embarrassing  to  Franklin,  and  they  no  doubt 
had  an  effect  on  the  fortunes  of  the  expedition. 

The  weather  during  December  was  the  coldest  they  experienced. 
"  The  thermometer  sank  on  one  occasion  to  57°  below  zero,  and  never 
rose  beyond  6°  above  it ;  the  mean  for  the  month  was  — 29°.'7.  During 
these  intense  colds,  however,  the  atmosphere  was  generally  calm,  and 
the  wood-cutters  and  others  went  about  their  ordinary  occupations  with- 
out using  any  extraordinary  precautions,  yet  without  feeling  any  bad 
effects.  They  had  their  reindeer-shirts  on,  leathern  mittens  lined  with 
blankets,  and  furred  caps  ;  but  none  of  them  used  any  defense  for  the 
face,  or  needed  any.  The  intense  colds  were,  nevertheless,  detrimental 
to  us  in  another  way.  The  trees  froze  to  their  very  centers  and  became 
as  hard  as  stones,  and  more  difficult  to  cut.  Some  of  the  axes  were 
broken  daily,  and  by  the  end  of  the  month  we  had  only  one  left  that 
was  fit  for  felling  trees.  A  thermometer,  hung  in  our  bed-room  at  the 
distance  of  sixteen  feet  from  the  fire,  but  exposed  to  its  direct  radiation, 
stood  even  in  the  day-time  occasionally  at  15°  below  zero,  and  was  ob- 
served more  than  once,  previous  to  the  kindling  of  the  fire  in  the  morn- 
ing, to  be  as  low  as  40°  below  zero. 

"  A  considerable  portion  of  our  time  was  occupied  in  writing  up 
our  journals  Some  newspapers  and  magazines,  that  we  had  received 
from  England  with  our  letters,  were  read  again  and  again,  and  com- 
mented upon  at  our  meals ;  and  we  often  exercised  ourselves  with  con- 
jecturing the  changes  that  might  take  place  in  the  world  before  we 
could  hear  from  it  again.  We  occasionally  paid  the  woodmen  a  visit, 
or  took  a  walk  for  a  mile  or  two  on  the  river.  In  the  evenmgs  we  joined 
the  men  in  the  hall,  and  took  a  part  in  their  games,  which  generally 
continued  till  a  late  hour ;  in  short,  we  never  found  the  time  to  hang 
heavy  on  our  hands ;  and  the  peculiar  occupations  of  each  of  the  officers 
afforded  them  more  employment  than  might  at  first  be  supposed.  Our 
diet  consisted  almost  entirely  of  reindeer  meat,  varied  twice  a  week  by 
fish,  at.d  occasionally  by  a  little  flour,  but  we  had  no  vegetables  of  any 
descr  ption.  On  Sunday  mornings  we  drank  a  cup  of  chocolate,  but  our 
greatest  luxury  wiw  tea  (without  sugar),  of  which  we  regularly  partook 
twice  a  day.  With  reindeer's  fat,  and  strips  of  cotton  shirts,  we  formed 
candles ;  and  Hepburn  acquired  considerable  skill  in  the  manufacture  of 
soap,  from  the  wood-ashes,  fat,  and  salt." 


,AR    SEA. 

id  por  ads  of  8uet, 
id  Wentzel  set  out 
dians,  to  attend  to 
ed  to  receive  from 
'  the  Canadipns  re- 
that  Mr.  Weeks, 
voring  to  prejudice 
)robably  be  obliged 
supplies.  All  these 
,  and  they  no  doubt 


t  they  experienced, 
low  zero,  and  never 
13  — 29°.7.  During 
generally  calm,  and 
ry  occupations  Avith- 
out  feeling  any  bad 
.  mittens  lined  with 
any  defense  for  the 
rtheless,  detrimental 
centers  and  became 
B  of  the  axes  were 
id  only  one  left  that 
our  bed-room  at  the 
3  its  direct  radiation, 
»w  zero,  and  was  ob- 
the  fire  in  the  mom- 

upied  in  writing  up 
hat  we  had  received 
and  again,  and  com- 
d  ourselves  with  con- 
Lhe  world  before  we 
he  woodmen  a  visit, 
le  evenings  we  joined 
imes,  which  generally 
und  the  time  to  hang 
of  each  of  the  officers 
3t  be  supposed.    Our 
ried  twice  a  week  by 
no  vegetables  of  any 
>  of  chocolate,  but  our 
we  regularly  partook 
tton  shirts,  we  formed 
in  the  manufacture  of 


DESCENDING  THE  COPPERMINE. 


295 


Thus  the  winter  passed  away,  and  on  the  17th  of  Marcli,  1821,  Lieu- 
tenant Back  returned,  after  an  absence  of  five  months,  during  which 
time  ho  had  traveled  eleven  hundred  and  four  miles  on  snow-shoes,  with 
no  other  covering  at  night  than  a  blanket  and  deer-skin,  with  the  ther- 
mometer frequently  at  40°,  and  once  57°,  below  zero.  Their  provisions 
now  gave  out,  and  the  months  of  April  and  May  were  spent  principally 
in  replenishing  their  supplies,  in  negotiations  with  the  Indians,  who, 
from  the  refusal  of  Mr.  Weeks  to  pay  Franklin^s  orders,  had  become 
unruly  and  discontented,  and  in  procuring  goods  and  ammunition  for 
the  summer  voyage.  The  season  was  later  than  usual,  and  the  expedi- 
tion was  not  ready  to  leave  before  the  beginning  of  June.  Dr.  Richard- 
son was  sent  forward  in  advance,  with  part  of  the  stores,  to  Point  Lake 
on  the  Coppermine  River,  and  on  the  14th  of  the  same  month  Franklin 
set  out  with  the  remainder  of  the  party.  He  took  the  precaution  of 
sending,  previously,  all  his  journals,  dispatches,  and  other  writings,  to 
England,  by  way  of  Fort  Providence  and  the  other  trading  posts. 

The  first  part  of  the  journey  was  very  fatiguing,  as  the  ice  on  the 
smaller  lakes  was  rotten,  and  the  men  broke  through  frequently.  They 
traveled  thus,  without  any  serious  accident,  for  seven  days,  when  they 
reached  Dr.  Richardson's  encampment  on  Point  Lake.  Here  the  ice 
was  still  six  or  seven  feet  thick,  with  no  appearance  of  melting,  and  they 
were  therefore  obliged  to  drag  the  canoes  and  stores  over  its  surface. 
The  canoes  were  mounted  on  sledges,  and  drawn  along  by  the  combined 
efibrts  of  dogs  and  men.  Four  days  were  required  to  cross  Point  Lake, 
as  they  did  not  make  more  than  ten  miles  a  day,  and  when  this  lake  was 
passed,  a  short  rapid  conducted  them  to  another,  frozen  in  like  manner. 
They  were  not  able  to  launch  the  canoes  on  the  Coppermine  until  the  2d 
of  July,  after  which  their  voyage  was  less  fatiguing,  but  much  more 
dangerous,  from  the  rapida  in  the  stream  and  the  masses  of  drift-ice. 
Their  supplies  of  meat,  however,  which  were  quite  exhausted,  were  now 
replenished  from  the  herd  of  musk-oxen  which  they  met  with.  On  the 
9th  they  passed  safely  through  the  Narrowe  of  the  Coppermine,  a  place 
where  the  river,  for  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  is  confined  between  prec- 
ipices two  hundred  feet  high,  and  shoots  along  in  an  arrowy  mass  of 
foam. 

As  they  approached  the  mouth  of  the  river,  they  kept  a  good  look- 
out tor  the  Esquimaux,  whom  they  expected  to  find  in  that  neighbor- 
hood. In  order  to  secure  a  fi-iendly  reception  from  them,  one  of  the 
Indian  interpreters,  named  Augustus,  was  sent  forward  to  communicate 
with  them.  He  found  some  of  them  near  the  falls  of  the  Coppermine, 
and  as  they  seemad  considerably  alarmed  at  the  news,  the  boats  of  the 
expedition  halted  a  little  short  of  that  point  on  the  14th.  "After  supper 
Dr.  Richardson  ascended  a  lofty  hill  about  three  miles  from  the  en- 
campment, and  obtained  the  first  view  of  the  sea ;  it  appeared  to  be 
covered  with  ice.  A  large  promontory,  which  I  named  Cape  Hearne, 
bore  north-east,  and  its  lofty  mountains  proved  to  be  the  blue  land  we 


Hfif^ 


wmaummd 


29fi 


FRANKLIN'S  JOURNBT  TO  TUK  POLAR  SEA. 


i 


had  seen  in  the  forenoon,  and  which  had  led  us  to  believe  the  sea  was 
still  far  distant." 

They  succeeded  in  establishing  some  intercourse  with  the  Esqui^ 
maux,  but  found  them  rather  shy  and  suspicious.  They  were  at  last 
able,  however,  to  get  upon  a  friendly  footing  with  an  old  mar.  named 
Terregannoeuck,  who  had  a  fresh,  ruddy  face,  a  prominent  nose,  and  a 
snow-white  beard,  two  inches  long.  Upon  showmg  him  his  face  in  a 
mirror  for  the  first  time,  he  exclaimed,  "  I  shall  never  kill  deer  any 
more,"  and  immediately  put  the  mirror  down.  Here  Akaitcho  and  his 
party  left,  to  return  to  the  grounds  of  their  tribe.  The  expedition 
reached  the  sea  on  the  19th  of  July,  when  Mr.  Wentzel  left  with  four 
Canadians,  to  return  to  Fort  Providence.  The  remainder  of  the  party, 
including  officers,  now  amounted  to  twenty  men.  Mr.  Wentzel  took 
Franklin's  last  dispatches  to  be  forwarded  to  England,  and  was  instruct- 
ed to  take  charge  of  all  the  journals  and  collections  left  at  Fort  Enter- 
prise, as  well  as  to  deposit  there  a  quantity  of  supplies  for  Franklin's 
party,  in  case  they  should  return  by  the  same  route.  When  his  party 
had  been  supplied  with  ammunition,  the  remaining  stock  consisted  of  one 
thousand  balls,  with  rather  more  than  the  requisite  quantity  of  powder. 

From  this  point  their  discoveries  commenced.  They  embarked  on 
the  Polar  Sea  on  the  21st,  and  turned  their  canoes  eastward,  hoping  in 
these  frail  barks,  to  solve  the  problem  of  a  north-west  passage.  Pad- 
dling along  the  coast,  on  the  inside  of  a  crowded  range  of  islands,  they 
encamped  on  shore  after  a  run  of  thirty-seven  miles,  in  which  they  ex- 
perienced little  interruption,  and  saw  only  a  small  iceberg  in  the  dis- 
tance, though  that  beautiftil  luminous  effulgence  emitted  from  the  con- 
gregated ices,  and  distinguished  by  the  name  of  the  ice-blink,  was  dis- 
tinctly visible  to  the  northward.  The  coast  was  found  of  moderate 
height,  easy  of  access,  and  covered  with  vegetation ;  but  the  islands 
were  rocky  and  barren,  presenting  high  cliffs  of  a  columnar  structure. 
In  continuing  their  voyage,  the  dangers  which  beset  a  navigator  in  these 
dreadful  polar  solitudes  thickened  gloomily  around  them.  Tlie  coast 
became  broken  and  sterile,  and  at  length  rose  into  a  high  and  rugged 
promontory,  against  which  some  large  masses  of  ice  had  drifted,  threat- 
ening destruction  to  their  slender  canoes.  In  attempting  to  round  this 
cape  the  wind  rose,  an  awful  gloom  involved  the  sky,  and  the  thunder 
burst  over  their  heads,  compelling  them  to  encamp  till  the  storm  sub- 
sided. They  then,  at  the  immuient  risk  of  having  the  canoes  crushed 
by  the  floating  ice,  doubled  the  dreary  promontory,  which  they  denomi- 
nated Cape  Barrow,  and  entered  Detention  Harbor,  where  they  landed. 
Around  ihem  the  land  consisted  of  mountains  of  granite,  rising  abruptly 
from  the  water's  edge,  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  attaining  an  elevation 
of  fourteen  or  fifteen  hundred  feet ;  seals  and  small  deer  were  the  only 
animals  seen,  and  the  former  were  so  shy  that  all  attempts  to  approach 
within  shot  were  unsuccessfiil.  With  the  deer  the  hunters  were  more 
fortunate,  but  these  were  not  numerous ;  and  while  the  ice  closed  grad- 


iini«WWT    liKillliniWIliililliBI  IWH 


MM 


)LAR    SEA. 
iHsUeve  the  sea  was 

irse  with  the  Eaqui' 
They  were  at  last 
,h  an  old  mar.  named 
rominent  nose,  and  a 
ing  him  his  face  in  a 

never  kill  deer  any 
ere  Akaitcho  and  his 
ibe.  The  expedition 
'entzel  left  with  four 
mainder  of  the  party, 
.  Mr.  Wentzel  took 
md,  and  was  instruct- 
ns  left  at  Fort  Enter- 
ipplies  for  Franklin's 
ute.    When  his  party 

stock  con^sted  of  one 
quantity  of  powder. 
.  They  embarked  on 
es  eastward,  hoping  in 
h-west  passage.  Pad- 
,  range  of  islands,  they 
liles,  in  which  they  ex- 
lall  iceberg  in  the  dis- 
i  emitted  from  the  con- 

the  ice-blink,  was  dis- 
as  found  of  moderate 
ation ;  but  the  islands 
'  a  columnar  structure, 
set  a  navigator  in  these 
•und  them.    Tlie  coast 
uito  a  high  and  rugged 
ice  had  drifted,  threat- 
tempting  to  round  this 
e  sky,  and  the  thunder 
samp  till  the  storm  sub- 
ing  the  canoes  crushed 
►ry,  which  they  denomi- 
bor,  where  they  landed, 
granite,  rising  abruptly 
d  attaining  an  elevation 
mall  deer  were  the  only 
lU  attempts  to  approach 
the  hunters  were  more 
aile  the  ice  closed  gradr 


EXPLORATION   OF   THE   ARCTIC   COAST. 


297 


ually  around  them,  and  their  little  stock  of  provisions,  consisting  of 
pemmioan  and  cured  beef,  every  day  diminished,  it  was  impossible  not 
to  regard  their  situation  with  uneasiness.  Rounding  Cape  Kater,  they 
entered  Arctic  iSound,  and  send  a  party  to  explore  a  river  upon  the 
banks  of  ^hich  they  expected  to  find  an  Esquimaux  encampment.  All, 
however,  was  silent,  desolate,  and  deserted ;  even  these  hardy  natives, 
bred  amid  the  polar  ices,  had  removed  from  so  barren  a  spot,  and  the 
hunters  returned  with  two  small  deer  and  a  brown  bear,  the  latter  ani- 
mal so  lean  and  sickly  looking,  that  the  men  declined  eating  it ;  but  the 
officers  boiled  its  paws,  and  found  them  excellent. 

Proceeding  along  the  eastern  shore  of  Arctic  Sound,  to  which  they 
gave  the  name  of  Bankes'  Peninsula,  the  expedition  made  its  painful  way 
along  a  coast  indjented  by  bays,  and  in  many  places  studded  with  islands, 
till,  on  the  10th  of  August,  they  reached  the  open  sea ;  iuid  sailing,  as 
they  imagmed,  between  the  continent  and  a  large  island,  found  to  their 
deep  disappointment  that,  instead  of  an  open  channel,  they  wer^  in  the 
center  of  a  vast  bay.  The  state  of  the  expedition  now  called  for  the 
most  serious  consideration  upon  the  part  of  their  conmiander.  So  much 
time  had  already  been  spent  in  exploring  the  sounds  and  inlets,  that  all 
hope  of  reaching  Repulse  Bay  was  vain ;  both  canoes  had  sustained  ma- 
terial injury ;  the  fuel  was  expended ;  their  provbions  were  snfficient 
only  for  three  days ;  the  appearances  of  the  setting  in  of  the  arctic 
winter  were  too  unequivocal  to  be  mistaken  ;  the  deer,  which  bad  hith- 
erto supplied  them  with  fresh  meat,  would,  it  was  well  known,  soon 
disappear ;  the  geese  and  other  aquatic  birds  were  already  seen  winging 
their  way  to  the  southward ;  wliile  the  men,  who  had  ap  to  this  mo- 
ment displayed  the  utmost  courage,  began  to  look  disheartened,  and  to 
entertain  serious  apprehensions  for  their  safety.  Under  these  circum- 
stances, Franklin,  with  the  concurrence  of  his  officers,  determined  not 
to  endaiiger  the  lives  of  his  people  by  a  further  advance ;  and  after 
spending  four  days  in  a  minute  survey  of  the  bay,  it  was  resolved  to 
return  by  Hood's  River  to  Foi-t  Enterprise.  Franklin's  researches,  as 
far  as  prosecuted  at  this  time,  favored  the  opinion  of  those  who  con- 
tended for  the  practicability  of  a  north-west  passage.  It  appeared 
probable  that  the  coast  ran  east  and  west  in  the  latitude  assigned  to 
Mackenzie's  River,  and  little  doubt  could,  in  his  opinion,  be  entertained 
regarding  the  existence  of  a  continued  sea  in  that  direction.  The  por- 
tion over  which  they  passed  was  navigable  for  vessels  of  any  size ;  and 
the  ice  met  with  after  quitting  Detention  Harbor  would  not  have  arrested 
a  strong  boat,  while  the  chain  of  islands  afforded  shelter  from  all  heavy 
seas,  and  there  were  good  harbors  at  convenient  distances.  Having, 
with  much  severe  privation,  completed  their  course,  from  Point  Turn- 
again,  in  Melville  Bay,  to  the  entrance  of  Hood's  River,  they  ascended  as 
high  as  the  first  rapid,  and  encamped,  terminating  here  their  voyage  on 
the  Arctic  Sea,  during  which  they  had  gone  over  six  hundred  and  fifty 
geographical  miles. 


-^a^ 


298 


FRANKLIN'S    JOURNEY    TO    THE    POLAR   SEA. 


On  the  prospect  of  commencing  their  land  journey,  the  Canadians 
could  not  conceal  their  satisfaction ;  and  the  evening  previous  to  their 
departure  was  passed  in  talking  over  their  post  adventures,  and  con- 
gratulatmg  each  other  in  having  at  length  turned  their  backs  upon  the 
sea,  little  anticipating  that  the  most  painful  and  hazardous  portion  of  the 
expedition  was  yet  to  come.  Before  setting  off,  an  assortment  of  iron 
materials,  beads,  looking-glasses,  and  other  articles,  was  put  up  in  a 


i«i  -ite---    ,~     "rlQ^ii-i  V  • 


WILBERFOBOB  FALLS. 

conspicuous  situation  for  the  Esquimaux,  and  the  English  union  was 
planted  on  the  loftiest  sand-hill,  where  it  might  be  seen  by  any  ships 
passing  in  the  offing.  Here  also  was  deposited  in  a  tin  box  a  letter  con- 
taining an  outline  of  the  proceedings  of  the  expedition,  the  latitude  and 
longitude  of  the  principal  places,  and  the  course  intended  to  be  pursued 
toward  Slave  Lake.  They  now  proceeded  up  the  river  in  their  canoes, 
and  though  upon  a  short  allowance  of  provisions,  the  produce  of  their 
nets  and  fowling-pieces  furnished  for  a  few  days  enough  to  ward  off  ab- 
solute want ;  but  they  were  often  on  the  very  brmk  of  it.    Their  pro- 


Mi 


.R   SEA. 

y,  tho  Canadiaii& 
)rcviou9  to  their 
entureg,  and  coii- 
•  backs  upon  the 
0U8  portion  of  the 
jsortmcnt  of  iron 
«va8  put  up  in  a 


English  union  waa 
seen  by  any  ships 
tin  box  a  letter  con- 
)n,  the  latitude  and 
nded  to  be  pursued 
»rer  in  their  canoes, 
le  produce  of  their 
ugh  to  ward  off  ab- 
le of  it.    Tlieir  pro- 


THB    COMMENCEMENT    OF   SUFFERING. 


299 


grcBS  was  mnc)i  interrupted  by  shoals  and  rapids,  and  one  evening  they 
encamped  at  the  lower  end  of  a  narrow  chasm,  the  walls  of  which  were 
upward  of  two  hundred  feet  high,  and  in  some  places  only  a  few  yards 
apart.  Into  this  the  river  precipitates  itstUf,  forming  two  magnificent 
cascades,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Wilberforce  Falls,  and  the 
combined  height  of  which  they  estimated  at  two  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  feet. 

On  taking  a  survey  of  its  further  course  from  a  neighboring  hill,  the 
river  was  discovered  to  be  so  rapid  and  shallow,  that  all  progress  in  the 
large  canoes  seemed  impossible.  Two  smaller  boats  were  therefore  con- 
structed ;  and  on  the  1st  of  September  they  set  off,  with  the  intention  of 
proceeding  in  as  direct  a  line  as  possible  to  the  part  of  Point  Lake  opposite 
their  spring  encampment — a  distance  which  appeared  comparatively 
trifling,  being  only  one  hundred  and  forty-nine  miles.  Their  luggage 
consisted  of  ammunition,  nets,  hatchets,  ice-chisels,  astronomical  instru- 
ments, clothing-blankets,  three  kettles,  and  the  two  canoes,  each  so  light 
as  to  be  carried  easily  by  a  single  man.  But  disaster  attacked  them  in 
their  very  first  stage.  A  storm  of  snow  came  on,  accompanied  by  a  high 
wind,  against  which  it  was  difficult  to  carry  the  canoes,  which  were  dam- 
aged by  the  falls  of  those  who  bore  them.  The  ground  was  covered  with 
small  stones,  and  much  pain  was  endured  by  the  carriers,  whose  soft 
moose-skin  shoes  were  soon  cut  through.  The  cold  was  intense ;  and  on 
encamping  they  looked  in  vain  lor  wood ;  a  fire  of  moss  was  all  they 
could  procure,  which  served  them  to  cook  their  supper,  but  gave  so  little 
heat  that  they  were  glad  to  creep  under  their  blankets. 

Having  ascended  next  morning  one  of  the  highest  hills,  they  ascer- 
tained that  the  river  took  a  westerly  course,  and  Franklin,  thinking  that 
to  follow  it  further  would  lead  to  a  more  tedious  journey  than  their  ex- 
hausted strength  could  endure,  determined  to  quit  its  banks  and  make 
directly  for  Point  Lake.  Emerging,  therefore,  from  the  valley,  they 
crossed  a  barren  country,  varied  only  by  marshy  levels  and  small  lakes. 
The  weather  was  fine,  but  imfortunately  no  berry-bearing  plants  were 
found,  the  surface  being  covered  in  the  more  humid  spots  with  a  few 
grasses,  and  in  other  places  with  some  gray  melancholy  lichens.  On  en- 
camping, the  last  piece  of  pemmican,  or  pounded  flesh,  was  distributed, 
with  a  little  arrow-root,  for  supper.  The  evening  was  warm ;  but  dark 
clouds  overspread  the  sky,  and  they  experienced  those  sudden  alterna- 
tions of  climate  which  occur  in  the  polar  latitudes  at  this  season.  At 
midnight  it  rained  in  torrents ;  but  toward  morning  a  snow-storm  arose, 
accompanied  by  a  violent  gale.  During  the  whole  day  the  storm  con- 
tinued, and  not  having  the  comfort  of  a  fire  the  men  remained  in  bed, 
but  the  tents  were  frozen ;  around  them  the  snow  had  drifted  to  the 
depth  of  three  feet,  and  even  within  lay  several  inches  thick  on  their 
blankets.  Though  the  storm  had  not  abated,  any  longer  delay  w><4  im- 
possible, for  they  knew  every  hour  would  increase  the  intensity  of  an 
arctic  winter ;  and  though  faint  from  fasting,  and  with  their  clothes  stiff- 


800 


FRANKLIN'S  JOUBNBT  TO  THB  POLAR  SEA. 


\ 


m 


ened  by  frost,  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to  push  forward.  They  lo^ 
fered  much  in  packing  the  frozen  tents  and  bedclothes,  and  could  hardly 
keep  their  hands  out  of  their  fur  mittens.  On  attempting  to  move, 
Franklin  was  seized  with  a  &inting  fit,  occasioned  by  hunger  and  ex- 
haustion, and  on  recovering  refused  to  cat  a  morsel  of  portable  isoup, 
which  was  immediately  prepared  for  him,  ns  it  had  to  be  drawn  from 
the  only  remaining  meal  of  the  party.  The  people,  however,  kindly 
crowded  round,  and  overcame  his  reluctance.  The  effect  of  eating  was 
his  rapid  recovery ;  and  the  expedition  moved  on. 

Disaster  now  crowded  on  disaster.  The  wind  rose  so  high  that  those 
who  carried  the  canoes  were  frequently  blown  down,  and  one  of  the 
boats  was  so  much  shattered  as  to  be  rendered  unserviceable.  The 
ground  was  covered  with  snow  ;  and  though  the  swamps  were  frozen, 
yet  the  ice  was  often  not  sufficiently  strong ;  so  that  they  plunged  in 
knce-dcep.  A  fire,  however,  was  made  of  the  bark  and  timbers  of  the 
broken  canoe ;  and,  after  having  &sted  three  days,  their  la^l  meal  of 
portable  soup  and  arrow-root  was  cooked.  Each  man's  allowance  at  this 
melancholy  dinner  was  exceedingly  scanty ;  but  it  allayed  the  pangs  of 
hunger,  and  encouraged  them  to  press  forward  at  a  quicker  rate.  They 
had  now  reached  a  more  hilly  country,  strewed  with  large  stones,  and 
covered  with  gray  lichen,  well  known  to  the  Canadians  by  its  name, 
tripe  de  roche.  In  cases  of  extremity,  it  is  boiled  and  eaten  ;  but  its 
taste  is  nauseous,  its  quality  purgative,  and  it  sometimes  produces  an  in- 
tolerable griping  biid  loathing.  The  party  not  being  aware  of  this, 
gathered  a  considerable  quantity.  A  few  partridges  also  had  been  shot ; 
and  at  night  some  willows  M'ere  dug  up  from  under  the  snow,  with  which 
the/  lighted  a  fire  and  cooked  their  supper. 

Next  day  they  came  to  Cracroft's  River,  flowing  to  the  westward  over 
a  channel  of  large  stones,  which  rendered  it  impossible  to  cross  in  the 
oanoe.  No  alternative  was  left  but  to  attempt  a  precarious  passage  over 
some  rocks  at  a  rapid ;  and  in  effectuig  this,  some  of  the  men,  losing 
their  balance,  slipped  into  the  water.  They  were  instantly  rescued  by  their 
companions ;  but  so  intense  was  the  frost,  that  their  drenched  clothes 
became  caked  with  ice,  and  they  suffered  much  during  the  remainder  of 
the  day's  march.  The  hunters  had  &llen  in  with  some  partridges,  which 
they  shot,  and  they  found  enough  of  roots  to  make  a  fire ;  so  that  their 
supper,  though  scanty,  was  comparatively  comfortable.  Next  morning 
they  pushed  forward  with  ardor,  and  passed  the  River  Congecathawha- 
ohaga  of  Mr.  Heame.  The  country  which  lay  before  them  was  hilly, 
and  covered  with  snow  to  a  great  depth.  The  sides  of  the  lulls  were 
traversed  by  sharp  angular  rooks,  where  the  drifted  snow,  filling  up  the 
interstices,  presented  a  smooth  but  fallacious  surface,  which  often  gave 
way  and  precipitated  them  into  the  chasms  with  i\u  iv  heavy  loads.  In 
this  painfhl  and  arduous  manner  they  struggled  forward  several  days, 
feeding  on  the  tripe  de  rocfte^  which  was  so  frozen  to  the  rooks  that 
their  hands  were  benumbed  before  a  meal  could  be  collected,  and  so 


iR    SEA. 

pward.  TheyBot 
and  could  hardly 

smpting  to  move, 

y  hunger  and  ex- 
of  portable  soup, 

x»  be  drawn  from 
however,  kindly 

ffect  of  eating  was 

so  high  that  those 
m,  and  one  of  the 
nserviceable.  The 
ramps  were  frozen, 
at  they  plunged  in 
and  timbers  of  the 

their  laQt  meal  of 
I's  allowance  at  this 
Hayed  the  pangs  of 
juicker  rate.  They 
h  large  stones,  and 
kdians  by  its  name, 

and  eaten ;  but  its 
imes  produces  an  in- 
leing  aware  of  this, 
I  also  had  been  shot ; 
the  snow,  with  which 

to  the  westward  over 
isible  to  cross  in  the 
ecarious  passage  over 
3  of  the  men,  losing 
antly  rescued  by  their 
leir  drenched  clothes 
ing  the  remainder  of 
)me  partridges,  which 
B  a  fire ;  so  that  their 
able.    Next  morning 
liver  Congecathawhar 
efore  them  was  hilly, 
des  of  the  hills  we»e 
>d  snow,  filling  np  the 
tace,  which  often  gave 
i,\v,  ir  heavy  loads.    In 
forward  several  days, 
sen  to  the  rocks  that 
L  be  collected,  and  so 


PROTIDENTIAL   RELIBF. 


801 


destitute  of  nutritive  juices,  that  it  allayed  hanger  only  for  a  very  short 
time. 

At  length  reaching  the  summit  of  a  hill,  they,  to  their  great  delight, 
beheld  a  herd  of  musk-oxen  feeding  in  the  valley  below ;  an  instant  bait 
was  made,  the  best  hunters  were  called  out,  and  while  they  proceeded 
with  extreme  caution  in  a  circuitous  route,  their  companions  watched 
their  proceedings  with  intense  anxiety.  When  near  enough  to  open 
their  fire,  the  report  reverberated  through  the  hills,  and  one  of  the 
largest  cows  was  seen  to  &11.  ^*  This  success,"  says  Franklin,  in  that 
simple  account  of  his  journey  which  any  change  of  language  would  only 
weaken,  **■  infused  spirit  into  our  starving  party.  The  contents  of  its 
stomach  were  devoured  upon  the  spot ;  and  the  raw  intestines,  which 
were  next  attacked,  were  pronounced  by  the  most  delicate  of  the  party 
to  be  excellent.  A  few  willows,  whose  tops  were  seen  peeping  through 
the  snow  in  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  were  quickly  grubbed,  the  tents 
pitched,  and  supper  cooked  and  devoured  with  avidity.  It  was  the 
sixth  day  since  we  had  had  a  good  meal.  I  do  not  think  that  we  wit- 
nessed, through  the  course  of  our  journey,  a  more  striking  proof  of  the 
wise  dispensation  of  the  Almighty,  and  of  the  weakness  of  our  own 
judgment,  than  on  this  day.  We  bad  considered  the  dense  fog  which 
prevailed  throughout  the  morning  as  almost  the  greatest  inconvenience 
which  could  have  befallen  us,  since  it  rendered  the  air  extremely  cold, 
and  prevented  us  from  distinguishing  any  distant  object  toward  which 
our  course  could  be  directed.  Yet  this  very  darkness  enabled  the  party 
to  get  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  which  bounded  the  valley  wherein  the 
musk-oxen  were  grazing,  without  being  perceived.  Had  the  herd  dis- 
covered  us  and  taken  alarm,  our  hunters,  in  their  present  state  of  de- 
bility, would,  in  all  probability,  have  Mled  in  approaching  them." 

On  the  following  day  a  strong  southerly  wind  blowing  with  a  snow- 
drift, they  took  a  day's  rest,  and  as  only  enough  remab(id  of  the  musk- 
ox  to  serve  for  two  days,  they  contented  themselves  with  a  single  meal. 
Next  morning,  though  the  gale  had  not  diminished,  they  pushed  for- 
ward, and  notwithstanding  their  rest  and  recent  supply  of  animal  food, 
the  whole  party  felt  greater  weakness  than  they  had  hitherto  expe- 
rienced. The  weather  was  hazy,  but  after  an  hour's  march  the  sky 
cleared,  and  they  found  themselves  on  the  borders  of  a  lake,  of  which 
they  could  not  discern  the  termination  in  either  direction.  In  these  cir- 
cumstances they  traveled  along  its  banks  to  the  westward,  in  search  of 
a  crossing-place.  Credit,  one  of  the  Canadians,  left  the  party  in  hopes 
of  fiiUing  in  with  deer,  but  did  Bbt  return ;  imd  on  encamping  in  the 
evening,  hungry  and  fiitigued,  they  had  to  divide  for  supper  a  single 
partridge  and  some  tripe  de  roche.  This  weed  from  the  first  had  been 
unpalatable,  but  now  became  insupportably  nauseous,  and  began  in  many 
to  produce  severe  pains  and  bowel-complaints,  especially  in  Mr.  Hood, 
lliis  solitary  partridge  was  the  last  morsel  of  animaj  food  that  remtuned; 
and  they  turned  with  deep  anxiety  to  the  hope  of  catching  some  fish  in 


•7^ 


\ 


302        PRANKLIN'8  JOURNEY   TO   THE    POLAR   SEA. 

the  lake,  but  discovered  that  the  persons  intrusted  with  them  had  im- 
provideiitly  thrown  away  three  of  the  nets  and  burned  the  floats  on  leav- 
ing Hood's  Kiver.  Things  now  began  to  look  very  gloomy  ;  and  as  the 
men  were  daily  getting  weaker,  it  was  judged  expedient  to  lighten  their 
burdens  of  every  thing  except  ammunition,  clothing,  and  the  instruments 
necessary  to  guide  them  on  their  way.  The  dipping-needle,  the  azimuth 
compass,  the  magnet,  a  large  thermometer,  and  the  l^w  books  they  car- 
ried, were  therefore  deposited  at  this  encampment,  after  they  had  torn 
out  from  these  last  the  tables  necessary  for  working  the  latitude  and 
longitude.  Rewards  also  were  promised  by  Franklin  to  such  of  the 
party  as  should  kill  any  animals,  and  in  the  morning  they  prepared  to  go 
forward. 

At  this  moment  a  fine  trait  of  ditiinterestedness  occurred :  As  the 
officers  assembled  round  a  small  fire,  enduring  an  intense  degree  of 
hunger  which  they  had  no  means  of  satisfying,  Perrault,  one  of  the 
Canadians,  presented  each  of  them  with  a  piece  of  meat  out  of  a  little 
store  which  he  had  saved  from  his  allowance.  "  It  was  received,"  says 
Franklin,  "  with  great  thankfulness,  and  such  an  instance  of  self-denial 
and  kindness  filled  our  eyes  with  tears."  IVessing  forward  to  a  river 
issuing  from  the  lake,  they  met  their  comrade.  Credit,  and  received  the 
joyful  intelligence  that  he  had  killed  two  deer.  One  of  these  was  im- 
mediately cut  up  and  prepared  for  breakfast ;  and  having  sent  some  of 
the  party  for  the  other,  the  rest  proceeded  down  the  river,  which  was 
about  three  hundred  yards  broad,  in  search  of  a  place  to  cross.  Having 
chosen  a  spot  where  the  cunent  Avas  smooth,  immediately  above  a  rapid, 
Franklin  and  two  Canadian  boatmen,  St.  Germain  and  Belanger,  pushed 
from  the  shore.  The  breeze  was  fresh,  and  the  current  stronger  than 
they  imagined,  so  that  they  approached  the  very  edge  of  the  rapid ;  and 
Belanger  employing  his  paddle  to  steady  the  canoe,  lost  his  balance,  and 
overset  the  bark  in  the  middle  of  it.  Tlie  party  clung  to  its  side,  and 
reaching  a  rock  where  the  stream  was  but  waist-deep,  kept  their  footing 
till  the  canoe  was  emptied  of  water,  after  which  Belanger  held  it  steady, 
while  St.  Germain  replaced  Franklin  in  it,  and  dexterously  leaped  in 
himself.  Such  was  their  situation,  Uiat  if  the  man  who  stood  on  the 
rock  had  raised  his  foot,  they  would  have  been  lost.  His  friends  there- 
fore were  compelled  to  leave  him,  and  after  a  second  disaster,  in  which 
the  canoe  struck,  and  was  as  expeditiously  righted  as  before,  they 
reached  the  opposite  bank. 

Meanwhile  Belanger  suffered  extremely,  immersed  to  his  middle,  and 
enduring  intense  cold.  He  called  pitcously  for  relief,  and  St.  Germain 
re-embarking,  attempted  to  reach  him,  but  was  hurried  down  the  rapid, 
and  on  coming  ashore  was  so  benumbed  as  to  be  incapable  of  further 
exertion,  A  second  effort,  but  equally  unsuccessful,  was  made  by  Adam : 
they  then  tried  to  carry  out  a  line  formed  of  the  slings  of  the  men's 
loads,  but  it  broke,  and  was  carried  dowr  the  stream.  At  last,  when 
he  was  almost  exhausted,  the  canoe  reached  him  with  a  small  cord  of 


,AR   SEA. 

(vith  them  had  im- 
,  the  floats  on  leav- 
looiny  ;  and  as  the 
Biit  to  lighten  their 
indtheinstruiaents 
needle,  the  azimuth 
Lw  books  they  car- 
after  they  had  torn 
g  the  latitude  and  j 
;lia  to  such  of  the 
they  prepared  to  go 

occurred:   As  the     { 
intense  degree  of      j 
'errault,  one  of  the     j 
meat  out  of  a  little     j 
was  received,"  says     ] 
stance  of  self-denial     | 
;  forward  to  a  river     j 
lit,  and  received  the 
)ne  of  these  was  im- 
having  sent  some  of 
the  river,  which  was 
ce  to  cross.    Having 
iiately  above  a  rapid, 
ind  Belanger,  pushed 
urrent  stronger  than 
Igeofthe  rapid;  and 
,  lost  his  balance,  and 
clung  to  its  side,  and 
ep,  kept  their  footing 
langer  held  it  steady, 
lexterously  leaped  in 
m  who  stood  on  the 
(t.    His  friends  there- 
jnd  disaster,  in  which 
ited  as  before,  they 

sed  to  his  middle,  and 
elicf,  and  St.  Germain 
irried  down  the  rapid, 
;  incapable  of  further 
1,  was  made  by  Adam : 
e  slings  of  the  men's 
tream.  At  last,  when 
with  a  small  cord  of 


A    PBRILOUS   SITUATION. 


803 


one  of  the  remaining  nets,  and  he  was  dragged  to  shore  quite  insensible. 
On  being  stripped,  rolled  in  blankets,  and  put  to  bed  between  two  men, 
he  recovered.  During  these  operations  Franklin  was  left  alone  upon  the 
bank,  and  it  seemed  a  matter  of  the  utmost  doubt  whether  ho  should  be 
ever  rejoined  by  his  companions.  "  It  is  impossible,"  says  lie,  "  to  de- 
scribe my  sensations  as  I  witnessed  the  various  unsuccessful  attenipts  to 
relieve  Belanger.  The  distance  prevented  my  seeing  distinctly  what 
was  going  on,  and  I  continued  pacing  up  and  down  the  rock  on  which 
I  stood,  regardless  of  the  coldness  of  my  drenched  and  stiffened  gar- 
ments. The  canoe,  in  every  attempt  to  reach  him,  was  hurried  down 
the  rapid,  and  was  lost  to  view  among  the  rocky  islets,  with  a  fury 
which  seemed  to  threaten  instant  destruction ;  once,  indeed,  I  fancied 
that  I  saw  it  overwhelmed  in  the  waves :  such  an  event  would  have 
been  fatal  to  the  whole  party.  Separated  as  I  was  from  my  companions, 
without  gun,  ammunition,  hatchet,  or  the  means  of  making  a  fire,  and 
in  wet  clothes,  my  doom  would  have  been  speedily  sealed.  My  com- 
panions too,  driven  to  the  necessity  of  coasting  the  lake,  must  have  sunk 
under  the  fatigue  of  rounding  its  innumerable  arms  and  bays,  which,  as 
we  learned  afterward  from  the  Indians,  are  extensive.  By  the  good- 
ness of  Providence,  however,  we  were  spared  at  that  time,  and  some  of 
us  have  been  permitted  to  offer  up  our  thanksgiving  in  a  civilized  land 
for  the  signal  deliverance  we  then  and  afterward  experienced." 

On  setting  out  next  morning,  Perrault  brought  in  a  fine  male  deer, 
which  raised  the  spirits  of  the  party,  as  it  secured  them  in  provisions  for 
two  days ;  and  they  trusted  to  support  themselves  for  a  third  on  the 
skin  which  they  carried  with  them.  Having  ascended  the  Willingham 
Mountauis,  they  entered  upon  a  rugged  country,  intersected  by  deep 
ravines,  the  passage  of  which  was  so  difficult,  that  they  could  only  make 
ten  miles  with  great  fatigue.  The  deer  was  now  picked  to  the  last  mor- 
sel, and  they  ate  pieces  of  the  singed  hide  with  a  little  tripe  de  roche. 
At  other  times  this  meal  might  have  sufficed ;  but,  exhausted  by  slen- 
der food  and  continued  toil,  their  appetites  had  become  ravenous. 
Hitherto  events  had  been  so  mercifully  ordered,  that  in  their  utmost 
need  some  little  supply  of  the  tripe  de  roc/ie  had  never  failed  them;  but 
it  was  the  will  of  God  that  their  confidence  should  be  yet  more  strongly 
tried ;  for  they  now  entered  upon  a  level  country  covered  with  snow, 
where  even  this  miserable  lichen  was  no  longer  to  be  found ;  and  a  bed 
of  Iceland  moss,  which  was  boiled  for  supper,  proved  so  bitter  that  none 
of  the  party,  though  enduring  the  extremities  of  hunger,  could  taste 
more  than  a  few  spoonfuls.  Another  distress  now  attacked  them :  the 
intensity  of  the  cold  increased,  while  they  became  less  fit  to  endure  it. 
Their  blankets  did  not  suffice  to  keep  them  warm,  and  the  slightest 
breeze  pierced  through  their  debilitated  frames.  "The  reader,"  says 
Franklin,  "  will  probably  be  desirous  to  know  how  we  p  *psed  our  time 
in  such  a  comfortless  situation.  The  first  operation  after  encamping  was 
to  thaw  our  frozen  shoes,  if  a  sufficient  fire  could  be  made  ;  dry  ones 


804 


FRANKLIN'S  JOURNBT  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


i 
I 


\. 


<>•■  ■'< 


■'t,. 


were  then  put  on.  Each  person  then  wrote  his  notes  of  the  daily  occur- 
rences, and  evening  prayers  were  read.  As  soon  as  supper  was  pre- 
pared it  was  eaten,  generally  in  the  dark,  and  we  went  to  bed,  and  kept 
np  a  cheerful  conversation  until  our  blankets  were  thawed  by  the  heat 
of  our  bodies,  and  we  had  gathered  sufficient  wannth  to  enable  us  to 
fall  asleep.  On  many  nights  we  had  not  even  the  luxury  of  going  to 
bed  b  dry  clothes  ;  for,  when  the  fire  was  insufficient  to  dry  our  shoes, 
we  dared  not  venture  to  pull  them  off,  lest  they  should  freeze  so  hard 
as  to  be  unfit  to  put  on  in  the  morning,  and  therefore  inconvenient 
to  carry." 

Hunger,  fatigue,  and  disappointment,  began  now  to  have  a  calami- 
tous eficct  upon  the  tempers  of  the  men.  One,  who  carried  the  canoe, 
after  several  severe  falls,  threw  down  his  burden,  and  obstinately  refused 
to  resume  it.  It  was  accordingly  given  to  another,  who  proved  stronger, 
and  pushed  forward  at  so  rapid  a  rate  that  Mr.  Hood,  whose  weakness 
was  now  extreme,  could  not  keep  up  with  them ;  and  as  Franklin  at-' 
tempted  to  pursue  and  stop  them,  the  whole  pnrty  were  separated.  Dr. 
Richardson,  who  had  remained  behind  to  gather  tripe  de  roche,  joined 
him,  and  on  advancing  they  found  the  men  encamped  among  some  wil- 
lows, where  they  had  found  some  pieces  of  skin  and  a  few  bones  of 
deer  which  had  been  devoured  by  the  wolves.  On  these  they  had 
made  a  meal,  having  burned  and  pounded  the  bones,  boiled  the  skin, 
and  added  their  old  shoes  to  the  mQss.  With  this  no  fault  could  be 
found ;  but  on  questioning  the  person  to  whom  the  canoe  had  been  en- 
trusted, it  was  discovered  that  he  had  left  the  boat  behind,  it  having,  as 
he  said,  been  broken  by  a  fall,  and  rendered  entirely  useless. 

To  the  infatuated  Obstinacy  of  the  men  in  refusing  to  retrace  their 
steps  and  fetch  it,  even  in  its  shattered  state,  is  to  be  ascribed  much  of 
the  distress  of  their  subsequent  journey.  Every  argument  and  entreaty 
seemed  entirely  thrown  away ;  and  they  had  apparently  lost  all  hope  of 
being  preserved.  When  the  hunters,  who  had  been  out  fbr  some  time, 
did  not  make  their  appearance,  they  became  fiirious  at  the  idea  of  having 
been  deserted,  and  throwing  down  their  bimdles,  declared  they  would 
follow  them  at  all  hazards,  and  leave  the  weakest  to  keep  up  as  they 
best  could.  The  remonstrances  of  the  officers  at  length  opened  their 
minds  to  the  madness  of  such  a  scheme ;  and  on  encamping  in  the  even- 
ing, they  found  some  pines  seven  or  eight  feet  high,  which  furnished  a 
comfortable  fire,  when  they  made  their  supper  on  tripe  de  roche.  Next 
morning  a  herd  of  deer  came  in  sight,  and  they  killed  five — a  supply 
which,  considering  the  extremity  of  hunger  and  despair  to  which  they 
were  reduced,  was  especially  providential. 

The  Canadians  now  earnestly  petitioned  for  a  day's  rest.  They 
pleaded  their  recent  Bufferings,  and  that  ttie  enjoyment  of  two  substan- 
tial meals,  aft«r  eight  days*  &mine,  would  enable  them  to  press  forward 
more  vigorously.  The  flesh,  the  skins,  and  even  the  stomachs  of  the 
deer,  were  accordingly  equally  divided  among  the  party,  and  some  of 


**-vi««»i»Si. 


:>&^>t£smmmmi'. 


^v<ir..=:sa:#iJte--> 


AR    SEA. 

of  tho  daily  ocour- 
B  supper  was  pre- 
t  to  bed,  and  kept 
mwed  by  the  heat 
ith  to  enable  ub  to 
iixiiry  of  going  to 
t  to  dry  our  shoes, 
)nld  freeze  so  hard 
•efore  inconvenient 

to  have  a  calami- 
I  carried  the  canoe, 

obstinately  refused 
lio  proved  stronger, 
3d,  whose  weakness 
ind  as  Franklin  at- 
vere  separated.  Dr. 
ipe  de  roche,  joined 
■d  among  some  wil- 
,nd  a  few  bones  of 
On  these  they  had 
les,  boiled  the  skin, 
8  no  fault  could  be 
!  canoe  had  been  en- 
behind,  it  having,  as 
ly  useless. 

ring  to  retrace  their 
be  ascribed  much  of 
gument  and  entreaty 
pently  lost  all  hope  of 
en  out  ibr  some  time, 

at  the  idea  of  having 
declared  they  would 
St  to  keep  up  as  they 
t  length  opened  their 
icamping  in  the  even- 
yh,  which  furnished  a 
^ripe  de  roche.    Next 

killed  five— a  supply 
iespsur  tp  which  they 

a  day's  rest.  They 
pient  of  two  Bubstan- 
them  to  press  forward 
1  the  stomachs  of  the 
le  party,  and  some  of 


PERPLEXITY    OP   T II K    PARTY. 


305 


them  suffered  severely  from  too  free  an  indulgence  in  the  tise  of  this 
food  after  so  long  an  abstinence.  Next  morning  tho  party  rosumod  their 
journey,  and  after  a  walk  of  three  miles,  came  to  the  Coppermine  Uivor. 
Its  current  was  strong ;  but  with  a  canoe  th«'re  would  have  been  no 
difficulty  in  -crossing ;  and  tho  recklesa  folly  of  the  men,  in  abandoning 
their  only  means  of  transport,  was  now  brought  strongly  to  their  mind. 
No  ford  could  be  discovered,  and  tho  plan  was  suggested  of  framing  a 
vessel  of  willows,  covered  with  tho  canvas  of  the  tent ;  but  the  most 
experienced  boatmen  declared  that  willows  were  too  small  to  bear  tho 
weight,  and  no  pines  could  be  found.  Nothing  remained  but  to  resume 
their  march  along  the  borders  of  the  lake  ;  and  looking  out  eagerly,  but 
in  vain,  for  some  fordablo  place,  they  encamped  at  the  east  end.  Anx- 
ious to  adopt  every  possible  means  for  preserving  tho  party,  Franklin 
sent  Mr.  Back  forward  with  the  interpreters  to  hunt.  He  was  directed 
to  halt  at  the  first  pines,  and  construct  a  raft ;  and  if  his  hunters  had 
killed  animals  sufficient  to  provision  them,  he  was  to  cross  immediately, 
and  send  the  Indians  with  supplies  of  meat  to  the  party  behind. 

At  this  time  it  was  discovered  that  two  of  tho  men  had  stolen  part 
of  the  officers'  provision,  though  it  had  been  doled  out  with  the  strictest 
impartiality,  and  they  saw  their  leaders  suffering  more  acutely  than 
themselves.  To  punish  this  was  impossible,  except  by  the  threat  that 
they  should  forfeit  their  wages,  which  produced  little  effect.  Despond- 
ency had  deeply  seized  upon  the  party,  and  in  the  morning  strict  orders 
could  not  prevent  them  from  straggling  in  search  of  the  remains  of 
animals ;  in  consequence  of  which  much  timo  was  lost  in  halting,  and 
ammunition  in  firing  guns  to  collect  them.  Tho  snow,  however,  had 
disappeared,  and  pressing  forward  with  more  alacrity,  they  came  to  an 
arm  of  the  lake  running  north-east.  Tho  idea  of  making  tho  long  cir- 
cuit round  it  was  distressing ;  and  having  halted  to  consult  what  was 
to  be  done,  some  one  discovered  in  a  cliff  the  carcass  of  a  deer  which 
had  fallen  into  a  chasm.  It  was  quite  putrid,  but  even  in  that  state  ap- 
peared delicious,  and  a  fire  being  kindled,  a  large  portion  was  rapidly 
devoured;  while  the  men,  cheered  by  this  unexpected  breakfast,  re- 
gained their  confidence,  and  requested  leave  to  return  to  the  rapid, 
insisting  on  the  practicability  of  making  a  sufficiently  strong  raft  of  wil- 
lows, though  they  had  formerly  pronounced  it  impossible.  Their  advice 
was  followed ;  and  having  sent  off  Augustus,  one  of  the  interpreters, 
to  inform  Mr.  Back  of  this  change  of  plan,  they  commenced  their  retro- 
grade movement,  and  encamped  at  night  in  a  deep  valley  among  some 
large  willows,  where  they  supped  on  the  remains  of  the  putrid  deer. 

Next  day  they  regamed  the  rapids,  commenced  cutting  willows  for 
the  raft,  and  a  reward  of  three  hundred  livres  was  promised  by  Franklin 
to  the  person  who  should  convey  a  line  across  the  river  strong  enough 
to  manage  the  raft  and  transport  the  party.  The  willows  when  cut  were 
bound  into  fagot^:.  and  the  work  completed;  but  the  greenness  of  the 
wood  rendered  it  heavy,  and  incapable  of  supporting  more  than  one 

20 


806 


FRANKLIN'S  JOURNEY  TO 


POLAR  SEA. 


'••"s 


man  at  a  (iiiie.  Still  they  hoped  to  bo  ahle  to  croHfl ;  Ixit  all  dcpondod 
on  gettui|{  u  line  earned  to  the  opposite  bank,  through  a  current  one 
hundred  and  thirty  yards  wide,  strong,  deep,  and  uitenseiy  cold.  Be- 
langer  nnd  Benoit,  the  two  strongest  men  of  the  party,  repeatedly  at- 
tempted to  take  the  raft  over,  but  for  want  of  oars  were  driven  back. 
The  tent-staves  were  then  tied  together,  and  formed  a  strong  pole ;  but 
it  Mas  not  lung  enough  to  reach  the  bottom  even  at  a  short  distance 
from  the  shore.  Dr.  Richardson  next  produced  a  paddle  ho  had  brought 
from  the  coast,  but  which  was  found  not  powerAil  enough  to  impel  the 
rati  against  a  strong  breeze.  The  failure  of  every  attempt  occasioned  a 
deep  despondency,  which  threatened  to  have  the  most  fatal  eifects, 
when  Dr.  Richardson,  with  a  disinterested  courage  that  made  him  for- 
get his  own  weakness,  threw  off  his  upper  garments,  and  attempted  to 
swim  with  a  rope  to  the  opponte  bank.  Plunging  in  with  a  lino  round 
his  middle,  he  at  first  made  some  way,  but  the  extreme  cold  was  too 
much  for  him,  and  in  a  few  moments  hia  arms  became  powerless ;  still, 
being  an  expert  swimmer,  he  not  only  kept  himself  afloat,  but  made  way 
by  turning  on  his  back  and  using  his  legs,  so  that  he  had  nearly  reached 
the  other  side,  when,  to  the  inexpressible  anguish  of  those  who  watched 
his  progress,  his  limbs  became  benumbed,  and  be  sank.  All  hands  now 
hauled  on  the  line,  and  drew  him  ashore  almost  lifeless ;  but,  placed  be- 
fore a  fire  of  wUows  and  stripped  of  his  wet  clothes,  ho  gradually  revived 
enough  to  give  directions  as  to  the  mode  of  treating  him.  His  thin  and 
emaciated  limbs,  which  were  now  exposed  to  view,  produced  an  in- 
voluntary exclamation  of  compassion  and  surprise : — "  Ah,  que  nous 
sommes  maigrea !"  said  the  French  Canadians ;  but  it  is  probable  that 
few  of  them  w^onld  have  presented  so  gaunt  and  attenuated  an  appear- 
ance as  the  brave  and  excellent  man  who  had  thus  nearly  fallen  a  sacri- 
fice to  his  humanity,  for  it  was  discovered  about  this  time  that  the 
hunters  were  in  the  practice  of  withholding  the  gatne  which  they  shot, 
and  devouring  it  in  secret. 

Soon  after  this  the  party  were  joined  by  Mr.  Back,  who  had  traced 
the  lake  about  fifteen  miles  further  up  without  discovering  any  place 
whera  it  was  possible  to  get  across ;  and  toward  evening  Credit,  who 
had  been  out  hunting,  returned  without  any  game  of  his  own  killing, 
but  brought  the  antlers  and  backbone  of  a  deer  shot  during  the  sum- 
mer. These  relics  had  been  already  picked  clean  by  tho  wolves  and 
birds  of  prey,  but  the  marrow  remained  in  the  spine  ;  and  though  com- 
pletely putrid,  and  so  acrid  as  to  excoriate  the  lips,  it  was  not  tho  less 
acceptable.  The  bones  were  rendered  friable  by  burning,  and  the  whole 
eagerly  devoured.  St.  Germain,  one  of  tho  voyageurs,  now  suggested 
that  a  canoe  might  be  made  of  the  pmntcd  canvas  used  to  wrap  up 
the  bedding,  and  offered  to  construct  it  upon  a  fVamework  of  willows. 
For  this  purpose  he  and  Adam  removed  to  a  clump  of  willows,  while 
another  party  proceeded  to  the  spot  where  they  had  encamped  on  the 
26th,  to  collect  pitch  among  the  small  pines  to  pay  over  the  scams.    A 


AR    SKA. 

l)iit  all  (Icpondod 
igh  a  current  one 
itenuely  cold.     Be- 
wty,  repeatedly  at- 
were  driven  back, 
a  itrong  pole ;  but 
at  a  diort  distance 
Idle  ho  had  brought 
inoQgh  to  impel  the 
tempt  occasioned  a 
most  fatal  effects, 
that  made  him  for- 
9,  and  attempted  to 
in  with  a  lino  round 
xtreme  cold  was  too 
amo  powerless ;  still, 
afloat,  but  made  way 
e  had  nearly  reached 
)f  those  who  watched 
ank.    All  hands  now 
bless ;  but,  placed  be- 
,  he  gradually  revived 
ig  him.    His  thin  and 
[ew,  produced  an  in- 
iBo:— "Ah,  quo  nouB 
lut  it  is  probable  that 
ittenuated  an  appear- 
i  nearly  follen  a  sacri- 
iit  this  time  that  the 
ratoe  which  they  shot, 

Back,  who  had  traced 
discovering  any  place 
I  evening  Credit,  who 
me  of  his  own  killing, 
r  shot  during  the  Bum- 
!an  by  the  wolves  and 
nnc  ;  and  though  com- 
ips,  it  was  not  tho  less 
homing,  and  the  whole 
pgeure,  now  suggested 
anvas  used  to  wrap  up 
framework  of  willows, 
slump  of  willows,  while 
r  had  encamped  on  the 
pay  over  the  scams.    A 


OROSSINO    TUB    OOPPERMINB. 


807 


snow-Storm  ut  thin  moment  came  on,  and  tlie  sufTcrings  of  the  men 
hotirly  inrrensing,  a  deep  gloom  settled  upon  their  spirits.  Mr.  Hood 
was  by  this  time  reduced  to  a  jterfoct  shadow ;  Mr.  BiR'k  required  tho 
support  of  a  stick  ;  Dr.  lUchardMon  wa«  lame  ;  and  Franklin  so  feeble, 
that,  nftor  il  struggle  of  three  hours,  he  found  himself  utterly  unable  to 
roach  tho  spot  where  8t.  (iemi;tiii  wiis  al  work,  a  distance  of  only  throe 
quarters  of  a  mile,  .ind  returned  completely  uxiiausted.  The  Canadian 
voyagours  had  now  ikllcn  into  a  state  of  despondency  which  l)ordercd 
on  despair,  and,  indiiforcnt  to  their  fate,  refused  to  make  the  slightest 
exertion.  Tlie  officers  wore  tmablo  to  undergo  the  labor  of  gathering 
tho  tripe  de  roche,  and  Samandr6,  the  cook,  sullenly  declined  continuing 
his  labors.  At  this  misomblo  crisis  the  conduct  of  John  Hepburn,  the 
English  sailor,  was  especially  admirable,  presenting  a  striking  contrast 
to  the  f;!uomy  selfishness  of  tho  Canadians.  His  firm  reliance  on  the 
watchf\il  goodness  of  Goil,  and  a  cfaoerful  resignation  to  His  will,  never 
for  a  moment  forsook  him  ;  and,  animated  by  this  bloHsed  principle,  his 
strength  appeared  to  be  preserved  as  a  moans  of  preserving  the  party. 
He  collected  the  tripe  de  roche  for  the  officers'  mess,  cooked  and  served 
it  out,  and  showed  tho  most  indefatigable  seal  in  his  efforts  to  alleviate 
their  sufferings. 

A  gleam  of  hope  at  length  arose,  when  St.  Germain  completed  the 
canoe.  It  was  impossible  not  to  feel  that  their  last  chance  of  escape 
seemed  to  hang  upon  this  little  bark ;  would  it  prove  suffioiont  for  its 
purpose  ?  or,  constructed  of  such  wretched  materials,  would  it  not  at 
once  sink  to  the  bottom  ?  Amid  this  conflict  of  contending  emotions 
it  was  launched  on  tho  river,  and  every  heart  bounded  with  exultation 
when  it  floated,  and  8t.  Gennain  transported  himself  to  the  opposite 
side.  It  was  drawn  back,  and,  one  by  (Hie,  the  whole  party  were  ferried 
over,  though,  from  the  leaky  state  of  the  little  bark,  their  garments  and 
bedding  were  completely  drenched.  Franklin  immediately  dispatched 
Mr.  Back  and  three  men  to  push  on  to  Fort  Enterprise  in  aearch  of 
the  Indians,  while  he  himself  followed  with  the  rest. 

Nothing  oould  exceed  tho  joy  of  the  Canadian  voyagenrs  at  this 
nnlooked-for  deliverance.  Their  spirits  rose  from  the  deepert;  despond- 
ency into  tumultuous  exaltation.  They  shook  tho  ofScera  by  the  hand, 
cricMl  oi't  that  their  worst  difficulties  were  at  an  end,  and  expressed  a 
confidei  t  hope  of  being  able  to  reach  Fort  Ekiterprise  in  the  course  of 
a  few  days — a  boistoroos  and  sudden  confidence,  to  which  the  silent 
gratitude  and  quiet  resolutaoa  of  the  psoas  Hepburn  presented  a  strik- 
ing contrast. 

Their  tents  and  bed-olothcs  were  so  madi  froeen,  and  the  men,  who 
had  kmdled  a  small  fire,  were  so  weary,  that  it  was  eight  in  the  morn- 
ing before  the  bundles  wore  pocked,  and  the  party  set  forward.  They 
traveled  in  sin^e  files,  each  at  a  small  distance  from  his  neighbor.  Mr. 
Hood,  who  wae  now  nearly  exhausted,  was  obliged  to  walk  at  a  gentle 
pace  in  the  rear,  Dr.  Richardson  kindly  keeping  beside  him ;  while 


808    FRANKLIN'S  JOURNEY  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA. 

Franklin  led  the  foremost  men,  that  he  might  make  them  halt  occasion- 
ally till  the  stragglers  came  up.  Credit,  hitherto  one  of  their  most  active 
hunters,  became  lamentably  weak  from  the  effects  of  tripe  de  roche  on 
bis  constitution,  and  Vaillant,  from  the  same  cause,  was  getting  daily 
more  emaciated.  They  only  advanced  six  miles  during  the  day,  and  at 
night  satisfied  the  cravings  of  hunger  by  a  small  quantity  of  tripe  de 
roche  mixed  up  with  some  scraps  of  roasted  leather.  During  the  night 
the  wind  increased  to  a  strong  gale,  which  continuing  next  day,  filled 
the  atmosphere  with  a  thick  snow-drift.  HaAring  boiled  and  eaten  the 
remains  of  their  old  shoes,  and  every  shred  of  leather  which  could  be 
picked  up,  they  set  forward  at  nine  over  bleak  hills  separated  by  equally 
barren  valleys. 

In  this  manner  they  journeyed  till  noon,  not  without  much  straggling 
and  frequent  halts,  at  which  time  Samandro  came  up  with  the  melancholy 
news  that  Credit  and  VaiUant  had  dropped  down,  and  were  utterly  un- 
able to  proceed.  Dr.  Richardson  went  back,  and  discovering  Vaillant 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  the  rear,  assured  him  that  a  fire  was  kindled 
a  little  way  on,  and  that  he  would  recover  if  he  could  but  reach  it ;  the 
poor  fellow  struggled  up  on  his  feet,  and  feebly  tried  to  advance,  but 
fell  down  every  step  in  the  deep  snow.  Leaving  him.  Dr.  Richardson 
retraced  his  steps  about  a  mile  further  in  a  fruitless  search  for  Credit. 
In  returning  ho  passed  Vaillant,  who  had  fallen  down,  utterly  unable  to 
renew  his  efforts  to  rejoin  the  party.  Belanger  went  back  to  carry  his 
burden  and  ajsist  him  to  the  fire ;  but  the  cold  had  produced  such  a 
numbness  that  he  could  not  speak  or  make  the  slightest  exertion.  The 
stoutest  of  the  party  were  now  implored  to  make  a  last  effort  to  trans- 
port him  to  the  fire,  but  declared  themselves  utterly  unable  for  the  task. 
They  eagerly  requested  leave  to  throw  down  their  loads,  and  proceed 
with  the  utmost  speed  to  Fort  Enterprise — a  scheme  projected  in  the 
despair  of  the  moment,  and  which  must  have  brought  destruction  upon 
the  whole. 

Matters  had  now  reached  a  dreadful  crisis ;  it  was  necessary  to  come 
to  an  immediate  decision  regarding  their  ultimate  measures,  and  a  plan 
proposed  by  Mr.  Hood  and  Dr.  Richardson  was  adopted.  These  gen- 
tlemen consented  to  remain  with  a  single  attendant  at  the  first  spot 
where  there  were  sufficient  firewood  and  tripe  de  roche  for  ten  days' 
consumption,  while  Franklin  and  the  rest  were  to  proceed  with  all  ex^ 
pedition  to  Fort  Enterprise,  and  to  send  immediate  assistance.  This 
scheme  prombed  to  relieve  them  of  a  considerable  portion  of  their  bur- 
dens— for  one  of  the  tents  and  various  other  articles  were  to  be  left ;  and 
it  gave  poor  Credit  and  Vaillant  a  fturer  opportunity,  should  they  re- 
vive, of  regaining  their  companions.  On  the  resolution  being  communi- 
cated to  the  men,  they  were  cheered  with  the  prospect  of  an  alleviation 
of  their  misery,  and  pressed  forward  in  search  of  a  convenient  spot  for 
the  proposed  separation.  Near  nightfall  they  encamped  under  the  lee 
of  a  hill  among  some  willows,  which  furnished  a  small  fire,  but  not  snf- 


L 


AR    SEA. 

hem  halt  occasion- 
)f  their  most  active 
tripe  de  roche  on 
was  getting  daily 
ag  the  day,  and  at 
uantity  of  tripe  de 
During  the  night 
ng  next  day,  filled 
iled  and  eaten  the 
er  which  could  be 
3parated  by  equally 

)ut  much  straggling 
yith  the  melancholy 
id  were  utterly  un^ 
iiscovering  Vaillant 

a  fire  was  kindled 
Id  but  reach  it ;  the 
led  to  advance,  but 
lim.  Dr.  Richardson 

search  for  Credit, 
n,  utterly  unable  to 
t  back  to  carry  his 
id  produced  such  a 
itest  exertion.    The 

last  effort  to  trans- 
■  unable  for  the  task. 

loads,  and  proceed 
me  projected  in  the 
ht  destruction  upon 

as  necessary  to  come 
neasures,  and  a  plan 
dopted.  These  gen- 
mt  at  the  first  spot 
I  roche  for  ten  days' 

proceed  with  all  ex" 
late  assistance.    This 

portion  of  their  bur- 
i  were  to  be  left ;  and 
inity,  should  they  re- 
ition  being  communi- 
ipect  of  an  alleviation 
a  convenient  spot  for 
lamped  under  the  lee 
smidl  fire,  but  not  su^ 


RICHARDSON    LEFT    BEHIND. 


809 


ficiently  strong  to  thaw  their  frozen  clothes ;  and  no  (ripe  de  roche  hav- 
ing been  found  during  the  day,  they  lay  down  hungry,  cold,  .and  full  of 
the  gloomiest  apprehensions,  while  sleep  fled  from  their  eyelids,  and  the 
images  of  their  dying  companions  rose  before  their  imagination  in  colors 
which  made  them  shudder  for  a  fate  that  might  so  soon  become  their 
own.  Next  ihorning  the  weather  providentially  was  mild,  and  setting 
out  at  nine  they  arrived  toward  noon  at  a  thicket  of  willows,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  some  rocks  bearing  a  pretty  full  supply  of  tripe  de  roche. 
Here  Dr.  Richardson  and  Mr.  Hood  determined  to  remain.  The  tent 
was  pitched,  a  barrel  of  anununition  and  other  articles  were  deposited, 
and  Hepburn,  who  volunteered  the  service,  was  appointed  to  continue 
with  them.  The  rest  of  the  party  now  had  only  to  carry  a  single  tent, 
the  ammunition,  and  the  oflicers'  journals,  in  addition  to  their  own 
clothes  and  a  single  blanket  for  Captain  Franklin,  When  all  was  ready, 
the  whole  party  united  in  thanksgiving  and  prayers  to  Almighty  God 
for  their  mutual  preservation,  and  separated  with  the  melancholy  reflec- 
tion that  it  might  in  all  probability  bo  the  last  time  they  should  ever 
again  meet  in  this  world. 

On  leaving  their  friends.  Captain  Franklin  and  his  party  descended 
into  a  more  level  country ;  but  the  snow  lay  so  deep,  and  they  were  so 
little  able  to  wade  through  it,  that  they  encamped,  after  a  painful  march 
of  only  four  miles  and  a  half,  in  which  Belanger,  and  Michel,  an  Iroquois, 
were  left  far  behind,  yet  still  struggling  forward.  In  the  evening  they 
came  in  dreadfiilly  exhausted,  and  Belanger,  till  now  one  of  the  strongest 
of  the  party,  could  not  refrain  from  tears  as  he  declared  he  was  totally 
unable  to  proceed,  and  implored  permission  to  return  to  Dr.  Richardson 
and  Mr.  Hood.  Michel  made  the  same  request,  and  it  was  agreed  that 
they  should  do  so.  The  cold  of  the  night  was  excessive,  and  the  men 
were  so  weak  that  they  could  not  raise  the  tent ;  from  its  weight  it  was 
impossible  to  transport  it  firom  place  to  place,  and  it  was  cut  up,  the  can- 
vas serving  them  for  a  covering ;  but  though  they  lay  close  together, 
the  intense  frost  deprived  them  of  sleep.  Having  no  tripe  de  roche,  they 
had  supped  upon  an  infusion  of  the  Labrador  tea-plant,  with  a  few  mor- 
sels of  burned  leather.  Michel  and  Belanger,  being  apparently  more  ex- 
hausted in  the  morning  than  over  night,  were  left,  while  the  rest  moved 
forward.  After  a  very  short  progress,  Perrault  was  attacked  with  a  fit 
of  dizziness ;  but  on  halting  a  little,  again  proposed  to  proceed.  In  ten 
minutes,  however,  he  sunk  down,  and  weeping  aloud,  declared  his  total 
inability  to  go  on.  He  was  accordingly  advised  to  rejoin  Michel  and 
Belanger — ^a  proposal  in  which  he  acquiesced.  These  examples  of  the 
total  failure  of  the  strongest  in  the  party  had  a  very  unfavorable  effect 
on  the  spirits  of  the  rest,  and  the  exertion  of  wading  through  the  snow 
and  crossing  a  lake  on  the  ice,  where  they  were  frequently  blown  down, 
was  so  severe,  that  Fontano,  after  having  repeatedly  fallen,  piteously 
complained  that  he  was  utterly  unable  to  go  further.  Being  not  two 
miles  from  the  others,  it  was  thought  best  that  he  also  should  attempt 


■^ 


1 


810 


FRANKLIN'S  JOURNEY  TO  THE  POLAR 


SEA. 


to  rejoin  tbem ;  and  a8  he  was  much  beloved,  the  parting  ^vas  vey  d^ 

re2g.    The;  watched  him  for  Bome  time,  *"d  were  comforted  by 

seetagiat,  though  his  progress  was  very  slow,  he  kept  las  feet  better 

'^*The  wLe  party  was  now  reduced  to  five  persons,  Captain  Franklin, 
Adam,  Peltier,  Benoit,  and  Samandr6,  the  interpreter  Augustus  havmg 
pres"d  forward  by  hi^iself  during  the  tete  frequent  halts.    They  made 
fha  day  only  four^mUes  and  a  half,  and  encamped  for  the  mght  under  a 
rock,  suppmg  again  on  an  infusion  of  the  Labrador  tea-plant  and  some 
Treds  of  bailed  leather.    The  evemng  was  comparatively  mdd    the 
breeze  hght,  and  havmg  the  comfort  of  a  fire,  they  enjoyed  Bome  sleep 
This  was  of  infinite  advantage ;  it  gave  them  new  spints,  wh>ch  were 
further  invigorated  by  a  breakfast  of  tripe  de  rocAc,this  bemg  the  four^ 
day  since  they  had  a  regular  meal.    On  reachmg  Marten  Lake  they 
found  it  frozen  over-a  circumstance  which  they  knew  would  enable 
them  to  walk  upon  the  ice  straight  to  Fort  Enterprise. 

It  may  be  easUy  imagined  what  were  the  sensations  ot  the  party  in 
approaSg  the  sp'ot  whISi  they  trusted  would  be  the  ^-^^^f.^^l 

toUs  and  privations.    From  the  a"-'»g«™«"*t  TT^  ^  w  1  IS 
judged  certain  that  they  would  here  find  rehef,  and  be  able  to  ^^ 
Lsince  to  their  unfortunate  companions     It  was  »  «P0^^  f  ^^S 
had  enjoyed,  at  a  former  period  of  the  expedition,  the  greatest  comfort, 
but  it  vi  i^ssible,  though  they  scarcely  permitted  themselves  to  con- 
template  so^^readf^l  an  idea,  that  circumstances  -g^^^*- o--;^^^ 
defeat  their  present  expectations.    On  approa^hmg  the  house  the  r  mmds 
were  strongly  agitated  between  hope  and  fear,  and  contrary    o  the^ 
Lai  custom;  th^y  advanced  in  silence.    At  length  they  je^ched  i^^d 
their  worst  apprehensions  were  reaUzed.    It  was  completely  desolate. 
No  prvisions^ad  been  deposited-no  trace  f^^^f^''^^      Jl 
covered-no  letter  lay  there  from  Mr.  Wentzel  to  inform  them  where 
the  Indians  might  be  found.    On  entering,  a  mute  despair  seized  the 
party.    They  gazed  on  the  cold  hearth,  comforUess  waHs,  and  broken 

Lies,  through  which  the  wind  and  snow  P<^"«f  *«^  *f  ^^^^^^"'"^^ 
a  full  sense  of  the  horrors  of  their  situation,  burst  into  tears.  On  r^ 
covering  a  little,  and  looking  round  with  more  attention,  a  note  waj 
rSm  Mr.  Back,  stating'that  havmg  two  days  before  ^h^  reached 
the  house,  he  had  proceeded  in  search  of  the  Indians ;  but  described  Ins 
party  as  so  debilitated  that  it  was  doubtful  whether  theyj.°»l^^^;/^^« 
to  reach  Fort  Providence.  The  sufferbgs  endured  by  ^^  ^^f '  Jjf 
his  little  party,  one  of  whom  was  frozen  to  death,  were  equally  dreadful 
with  those  wliich  fell  to  the  share  of  his  commander. 

The  poor  sufferers  thus  grievously  disappointed,  now  exammed  the 
deserted  habitation  for  the  means  of  subsistence,  ^nd  found  several  dee^ 
skins  thrown  away  during  their  former  residence  at  the  fort.  The  hea^ 
of  ashes  were  carefully  raked,  and  a  considerable  collection  of  bones  dis- 
covered, which  were  hoarded  up  for  the  purpose  of  bemg  pomided  and 


LAB    SEA. 

arting  was  very  di»- 
wero  comforted  by 
lept  Ilia  feet  better 

is,  Captain  F.-anklin, 

ter  Augustus  having 

halts.    They  made 

or  the  night  under  a 

T  tea-plant  and  some 

paratively  mild,  the 

enjoyed  some  sleep. 

r  spirits,  which  were 

this  being  the  fourth 

r  Marten  Lake  they 

knew  would  enable 

rise. 

tions  of  the  party  in 
the  end  of  all  their 
eviously  made,  it  was 
and  be  able  to  send 
ras  a  spot  where  they 
the  greatest  comfort ; 
ed  themselves  to  con- 
ight  have  occurred  to 
r  the  house  their  minds 
and  contrary  to  their 
h  they  reached  it,  and 
!  completely  desolate. 
'  Indians  could  be  dis- 
to  inform  them  where 
ite  despair  seized  the 
less  walls,  and  broken 
ted,  and  awakening  to 
rst  into  tears.     On  re- 
attention,  a  note  was 
ays  before  this  reached 
ians ;  but  described  his 
ler  they  would  be  able 
•ed  by  this  officer  and 
,  were  equally  dreadful 
ler. 

ited,  now  examined  the 
and  found  several  deer- 
at  the  fort.  The  heaps 
collection  of  bones  dis- 
of  being  pounded  and 


8UPFERINGS  AT  FORT  ENTERPRISE. 


311 


manufactured  into  soup.  Tlie  parchment  originally  employed  instead 
of  glass  had  been  torn  from  the  windows,  and  the  place  was  exposed  to 
all  the  inclemency  of  an  arctic  whiter  ;  but  they  succeeded  in  iiiling  the 
sashes  with  loose  boards,  and  as  the  temperature  of  the  outer  air  was 
now  from  15"  to  20°  below  zero,  this  precaution  was  csjiccially  neces- 
sary. To  procure  water,  they  melted  the  frozen  lumps  of  snow,  and  the 
flooring  of  the  neighboring  apartment  was  broken  up  for  fuel. 

Having  completed  these  arrangements,  they  assembled  round  the 
fire,  and  were  busy  singeing  the  hair  ofi'  a  deer-skin,  when  they  wore 
cheered  by  the  entrance  of  the  interpreter,  who  had  made  his  way  to 
the  fort  by  a  different  route,  through  a  country  ho  had  never  traversed 
before.  Though  by  far  the  strongest  of  the  party,  he  was  now  so  en- 
feebled by  famine  that  he  could  not  follow  two  deer  which  he  had  seen 
on  Ins  way.  Next  morning  there  was  a  heavy  gale  from  the  south-east, 
and  the  snow  drifted  so  thick  that  no  one  ventured  abroad.  On  the 
evening  of  the  succeeding  day,  a  figure  covered  with  ice,  benumbed  with 
cold,  and  almost  speechless,  staggered  into  the  house.  It  was  one  of  the 
Canadians,  who  had  been  dispatched  with  a  note  by  Mr.  Back,  and  hav- 
ing fallen  into  a  rapid  narrowly  escaped  being  drowned.  To  change  his 
dress,  wrap  him  in  warm  blankets,  and  pour  some  soup  down  his  throat, 
was  their  first  care ;  and  after  a  little  he  revived  enough  to  answer  the 
anxious  questions  with  which  he  was  assailed.  From  his  replies  but 
little  comfort  was  derived.  Mr.  Back  had  seen  no  trace  of  the  Indians, 
and  the  messenger's  recollection  appeared  confused  with  regard  to  the 
part  of  the  country  where  he  had  left  his  officer,  who,  as  he  stated,  in- 
tended to  proceed  to  the  spot  where  the  Indian  chie^  Akaitcho,  had  en- 
camped last  summer — a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles.  Thither  he  pro- 
posed to  follow  when  be  was  a  little  recruited  ;  and,  though  dissuaded 
from  the  attempt,  persisted  that  as  the  track  was  beaten  he  would  bo 
able  to  make  it  out,  and  to  convey  intelligence  of  the  situation  of  Cap- 
tain Franklin's  party.  Accordingly,  the  fifth  day  after  his  arrival,  he 
departed  from  the  fort  with  a  small  supply  of  singed  hide. 

Not  long  after,  Adam,  one  of  the  five  men  who  now  remained  with 
Captain  Franklin,  became  so  ill  that  he  was  utterly  incapable  of  moving, 
and  it  was  discovered  that  be  had  been  for  some  time  afflicted  with 
oedematous  swellings  in  various  parts  of  his  body,  which  he  bad  hitherto 
generously  concealed,  from  a  wish  not  to  impede  the  movements  of  his 
companions.  As  it  was  impossible  for  this  poor  man  to  travel,  it  was 
necessary  to  abandon  the  original  intention  of  proceeding  with  the  whole 
party  to  Fort  Providence,  and  Peltier  and  Samandre,  who  were  in  almost 
as  weak  a  state,  having  expressed  a  wbh  to  remain  with  Adam,  Captain 
Franklin,  along  with  Augustus  and  Benoit,  determined  to  press  on  to 
Fort  Providence,  and  to  send  relief  to  their  companions  by  the  first 
party  of  Indians  they  should  meet. 

Having  accordingly  given  directions  regarding  the  journals  and 
charts  which  were  left  in  their  custody,  and  the  best  mode  of  forward- 


312         FRANKLIN'S   JOURNEY    TO    THE   POLAR   SEA. 

iiig  succor  to  Mr.  Hood  and  Dr.  Richardson,  Franklin  set  forward  with 
his  two  attendants ;  but  so  feeble  had  they  become,  that  the  distance 
accomplished  in  six  hours  was  only  four  miles.  They  encamped  on  the 
borders  of  Round  Rock  Lake,  and,  unable  to  find  any  tripe  de  roche, 
made  their  supper  upon  fried  deer-skin.  The  night  proved  intensely 
cold,  and  although  they  crept  as  close  to  each  other  as  possible,  they 
shivered  in  every  limb,  and  the  wind  pierced  through  their  famished 
frannes.  Next  morning  was  mild,  and  they  set  out  early,  but  hud  scarce 
])roceeded  a  few  yards,  when  Franklin  fell  between  two  rocks,  and 
broke  his  snow-shoes,  an  accident  which  incapacitated  him  from  keeping 
up  with  Bcnoit  and  Augustus.  In  a  very  short  time  his  attempt  to  press 
forward  completely  exhausted  him ;  and  as  the  only  hope  of  preserving 
the  lives  of  the  party  appeared  to  rest  on  their  speedily  reachmg  Fort 
Providence,  he  determined,  rather  than  retard  them,  to  retrace  his  steps 
to  the  house,  while  they  pi-oceeded  for  assistance.  Calling  a  moment's 
halt,  he  addressed  one  note  to  Mr.  Back,  requesting  an  immediate  sup- 
ply of  meat  from  Reindeer  Lake,  and  another  to  the  commandant  at 
Fort  Providence,  with  urgent  entreaties  for  assistance.  This  done,  Au- 
gustus and  Benoit  resumed  their  journey,  and  Franklin  returned  to  the 
house. 

On  arriving,  he  found  Adam,  Saraandre,  and  Peltier  still  alive ;  but 
the  two  first,  whose  minds  seemed  quite  enfeebled,  could  not  be  prevailed 
on  to  leave  their  bed,  and  their  nervous  weakness  was  so  great,  that 
they  scarcely  ceased  shedding  tears  all  day.  It  was  even  with  difficulty 
that  they  were  prevailed  on  to  take  any  nourishment ;  and  the  labor  of 
cutting  and  carrying  fuel,  gathering  the  tripe  de  roche,  and  cooking,  fell 
entirely  upon  Franklin  and  Peltier.  The  frost  was  now  so  severe,  that 
it  was  evident  this  lichen  would  soon  be  bound  up  in  ice,  and  as  their 
strength  daily  declined,  every  exertion  became  irksome.  When  once 
seated,  it  required  a  painful  effort  to  rise  up,  and  not  unfrequently  they 
had  to  lift  each  other  from  their  chairs.  Tliis  miserable  condition  could 
not  last  long.  Peltier  soon  became  almost  incapable  of  holding  the 
hatchet ;  the  bone-soup  had  become  so  acrid  as  to  corrode  the  inside 
of  their  mouths ;  the  tripe  de  rochet  covered  with  ice,  defied  all  efforts  to 
detach  it  from  the  rock ;  and  though  the  reindeer  sported  on  the  banks 
of  the  river,  no  one  had  strength  to  go  after  them,  or  to  hold  a  gun  so 
steadily  as  to  secure  an  aim. 

Still  the  hopes  and  cheerfulness  of  Franklin  did  not  desert  him. 
From  his  knowledge  of  the  places  most  frequented  at  that  season  by 
the  Indians,  he  was  sanguine  as  to  the  likelihood  of  their  being  found ; 
and  their  speedy  arrival  formed  a  constant  subject  of  conversation.  At 
length,  on  the  evening  of  the  29th,  when  talking  of  his  long-looked-for 
relief,  and  sitting  round  the  fire,  Peltier  suddenly  leaped  up  and  uttered 
a  joyful  exclamation,  imagining  he  heard  the  bustle  of  the  Indians  in 
the  adjoining  room.  It  was  not  the  Indians,  however,  but  Dr.  Richard- 
son and  Hepburn,  who  came  in,  each  carrying  his  bimdle.    The  meeting 


R    SEA. 

et  forward  with 
that  the  distance 
ncampcd  on  tho 
y  tripe  de  roche, 
proved  intensely 
as  possible,  they 
1  their  famished 
y,  but  hiid  scarce 
two  rocks,  and 
im  from  keeping 
1  attempt  to  press 
)pe  of  preserving 
ly  reaching  Fort 
» retrace  his  steps 
lling  a  moment's 
1  immediate  sup- 
;  commandant  at 
This  done,  Au- 
i  returned  to  the 

jr  still  alive ;  but 
d  not  be  prevsuled 
ras  so  great,  that 
i^en  with  difficulty 
and  the  labor  of 
,  and  cooking,  fell 
)w  80  severe,  that 
ice,  and  as  their 
me.    When  once 
unfrequently  they 
e  condition  could 
le  of  holdmg  the 
iorrode  the  inside 
lefied  all  efforts  to 
rted  on  the  banks 
to  hold  a  gun  so 

1  not  desert  him. 
at  that  season  by 
leir  being  found ; 
conversation.  At 
lis  long-looked-for 
ed  up  and  uttered 
of  the  Indians  in 
,  but  Dr.  Richard- 
die.    The  meetmg 


THE    EXAMPLE    OF   HEPBURN. 


318 


was  one  of  mingled  joy  and  sorrow.  Poor  Hood's  absence  was  instantly 
perceived,  and  their  saddest  anticipations  were  confirmed  by  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson declaring  that  this  young  officer  and  Michel  were  do.id,  and  that 
neither  Perrault  nor  Fontano  had  reached  the  tent,  or  boon  hoard  of. 
Such  news  could  not  fail  to  create  despondency.  All  were  (shocked  at 
the  emaciated  countenances  and  hollow  voices  of  Dr.  Richardson  and 
his  companion,  while  Captain  Franklin  and  his  fellow-sufferers,  having 
become  gradually  accustomed  to  the  dreadful  effects  of  famine  ujioii  each 
other,  were  not  aware  that,  to  the  eyes  of  their  friends  v.ho  liad  just 
arrived,  the  alteration  upon  themselves  was  equally  melancholy.  "  The 
doctor,"  says  Franklin,  "  particularly  remarked  the  sepulchral  tone  of 
our  voices,  which  he  requested  us  to  make  more  cheerful  if  possible, 
not  aware  that  his  own  partook  of  the  same  key." 

The  arrival  of  these  friends,  however,  was  soon  .ittended  with  a  fav- 
orable chajige.  Though  greatly  reduced,  they  were  still  in  a  better  con- 
dition than  their  unfortunate  companions,  and  it  was  not  long  till  Hep- 
bum  shot  a  partridge.  Dr.  Richardson  speedily  tore  off  the  feathers, 
and  having  held  it  for  a  few  minutes  at  the  tire,  divided  it  mto  six 
pieces.  Franklin  and  his  companions  ravenously  devoured  their  por- 
tions, "  being  the  first  morsel  of  flesh  that  any  of  them  liad  tasted  for 
thirty-one  days ;"  and  Dr.  Richardson  cheered  them  Mith  the  prospect 
that  Hepburn  might  possibly  bring  in  a  deer  ui  his  next  expedition. 
The  counsels  and  example  of  this  pious  and  intelligent  man  produced 
t)ie  best  effects  on  the  spirits  of  the  party.  He  had  brought  with  him 
his  Testament  and  Prayer-book,  and  by  reading  portions  of  Scripture 
appropriate  to  their  situation,  and  encouraging  them  to  join  in  prayer 
and  thanksgiving,  he  led  them  to  the  only  source  whence,  under  the 
awful  circumstances  in  which  they  were  placed,  they  could  derive  hope 
or  consolation.  He  taught  them  the  necessity  of  exertion,  whatever 
pain  it  might  at  first  cost ;  roused  them  to  pay  some  attention  to  the 
cleanliness  of  their  apartment,  and  insisted  particularly,  that  during  the 
day  they  should  roll  up  their  blankets,  which  they  had  been  in  the  prac- 
tice of  leaving  beside  the  fire  where  they  slept.  Their  several  tasks  were 
now  allotted  to  each :  Hepburn  and  Richardson  went  out  in  search  of 
deer ;  while  Franklin,  being  unable  to  walk  far,  remained  nearer  the 
house,  and  digged  under  the  snow  for  skins,  which,  during  their  former 
happy  winter  residence  at  this  station,  when  they  killed  and  ate  abund- 
ance of  game,  were  thrown  away  as  useless,  but  now  in  their  almost  pu- 
trid state  formed  their  principal  suppoit.  The  cutting  of  firewood  was 
intrusted  to  Peltier  and  Samandre ;  but  both  were  so  weak  and  dispirited, 
that  it  was  generally  performed  by  Hepburn  on  his  return  from  huntuig ; 
as  for  Adam,  his  legs  were  still  so  severely  swollen  that  he  kept  his  bed, 
though  an  operation  performed  by  Dr.  Richardson  gave  him  some  ease. 
In  the  midst  of  these  necessary  cares,  all  seemed  for  a  while  to  dread 
approaching  the  subject  of  Hood  and  Michel's  death ;  but  at  length  one 
evening,  on  the  return  of  the  doctor  from  hunting,  and  afler  having 


■€ 


prr 


814         FRANKLIN'S   JOURNEY    TO   THE    POLAR    SEA. 

dispatched  their  usual  supper  of  singed  skin  and  bone-soup,  they  re- 
quested him  to  relate  the  particdars;  and  a  more  afflicting,  or,  in  some 
Respects,  a  more  terrific  story,  as  it  appears  m  his  pubUshed  narrative, 
could  not  well  be  conceived.  . 

He  stated  that  after  being  left  by  Captain  Franklin,  they  remamed 
beside  the  fire  as  long  as  i!t  lasted.  Having  no  tripe  de  roche  they  sup- 
ped on  an  infusion  of  the  country  tea-plant,  which  was  grateM  from  its 
warmth,  but  afforded  no  nourishment,  and  retired  to  rest,  f  ext  day 
proved  stonny,  and  the  snow  being  so  deep  that  a  fire  could  not  be 
kindled  with  the  green  willows,  they  lay  in  bed  reading  some  religious 
books  with  which  the  party  had  been  furnished  before  leavmg  England 
by  the  affectionate  and  pious  caro  of  a  lady.  "Tl.ey  proved^'  says 
Richardson,  "  of  incalculable  benefit  to  us.  We  read  portions  of  them 
to  each  other  as  we  lay  in  bed,  in  addition  to  the  morning  and  evenmg 
service,  and  found  that  thoy  inspired  us  on  each  perusal  with  so  strong  a 
sense  of  the  omnipresence  of  a  beneficent  God,  that  our  situation  in  these 
wUds  appeared  no  longer  destitute;  and  we  conversed  not  only  with 
calmness,  but  with  cheerfulness,  detaiUng  with  unrestrained  confadenco 
the  past  events  of  our  lives,  and  dwelling  with  hope  upon  our  future 

'"'''The  weather  clearing  up.  Dr.  Richardson  went  out  in  search  of  tripe 
de  roche,  leaving  Mr.  Hood  in  bed,  and  Hepburn  cuttmg  willows  for  a 
fire-  but  the  rocks  were  covered  with  ice  and  snow,  and  he  was  un- 
successful. On  his  return  he  fomid  Michel,  the  Iroquois,  who  dehvered 
the  note  from  Franklin.  All  were  surprised  to  see  him  alone  ;  but  he 
stated  that  Belanger  had  separated  from  him,  and,  as  .»^«  «"PP«««"Vlo8t 
his  way,  ho  himself  having  wandered  far  from  the  straight  road.  They 
had  afterward  good  reason  to  suspect  the  truth  of  this  story,  but  be- 
lieved it  at  that  moment,  and  were  rejoiced  to  see  him  produce  a  hare 
and  a  partridge-a:.  unlooked-for  supply,  which  they  received  with 
humble  thankfulness  to  the  Giver  of  all  good.  ^Frankhn's  note  adv»ed 
them  to  advance  to  a  little  wood  of  pmes  which  would  afford  better 
fuel ;  and  to  this  they  removed  under  the  gmdance  of  Michel,  who  led 

them  strjught  to  the  spot.  ,     .  ,  .,  *     „ 

As  he  had  declared  hunself  so  little  acquainted  with  the  country  as 
to  lose  his  way,  it  seemed  strange  that  he  should  at  once  conduct  them 
to  the  thicket.  This  roused  their  attention,  and  made  them  feel  rather 
uneasy  as  to  his  honesty ;  and  various  circumstances  occurred  to  mcrease 
their  suspicions.  He  requested  the  loan  of  a  hatchet  when  any  other 
hunter  would  have  taken  only  his  knife.  He  remained  abroad  aU  day 
without  any  definite  employment.  He  brought  them  some  raw  mea^ 
saying  it  was  part  of  the  carcase  of  a  wolf,  but  which  they  had  afterward 
reason  to  beUeve  was  a  portion  of  the  bodies  of  Belanger  and  Perrault, 
whom  they  suspected  him  to  have  murdered.  He  shunned  the  society 
of  Dr  Richardson  and  Mr.  Hood,  refusing  to  sleep  in  the  tent,  and  pre. 
ferring  to  lie  alone  at  the  fire.    On  gomg  out  with  the  purpose  ot  re- 


^^.     iiilitWWi.iiiniiii 


R    SEA. 
e-80up,  they  re- 


ing, 


or,  in  some 


ished  narrative, 

,  they  remained 
roche,  they  sap- 
rrateM  from  its 
rest.    Next  day 
re  could  not  be 
r  Bomo  religious 
leaving  England 
jy  proved,"  says 
)ortion8  of  them 
ling  and  evening 
with  so  strong  a 
situation  in  these 
;d  not  only  with 
iiined  confidence 
upon  our  future 

in  search  of  fnpe 
ing  willows  for  a 
r,  and  he  was  un- 
)iB,  who  delivered 
im  alone  ;  but  he 
he  supposed,  lost 
ught  road.    They 
this  story,  but  be- 
n  T>roduce  a  hare 
By  received  with 
tlin's  note  advised 
ould  afford  better 
f  Michel,  who  led 


'ith  the  country  as 
>nce  conduct  them 
o  them  feel  rather 
scurred  to  uicrease 
!t,  when  any  other 
ed  abroad  all  day 
\  some  raw  meat, 
hey  had  afterward 
iger  and  Perrault, 
imined  the  society 
the  tent,  and  pre- 
the  purpose  of  re- 


MURDEB    OF    MR.    HOOD. 


816 


maining  a  whole  day,  he  often  returned  abruptly,  and  when  questioned 
gave  vague  answers.  In  a  few  days  ho  began  to  regret  that  he  had  left 
Captain  Franklin's  party,  refused  to  take  any  share  in  the  labor  of  cut- 
ting wood,  talked  in  a  surly  and  insolent  manner,  and  could  scarcely  be 
prevailed  upon  to  go  out  and  hunt  at  all.  These  symptoms  of  gloomy 
dissatisfaction  increased ;  ho  resisted  all  entreaties,  and  when  Mr.  Hood, 
who  was  now  reduced  by  fiunuie  to  the  last  extremity,  remonstrated 
with  him,  he  flew  uito  a  violent  passion,  and  exclaimed,  "  It  is  of  no  use 
hunting ;  there  are  no  animals ;  you  had  better  kill  and  eat  me."  Ho 
afterward,  however,  consented  to  go  out,  but  returned  upon  some  frivol- 
ous pretense;  and  on  the  succeeding  day  that  dreadful  catastrophe 
took  place,  which  will  be  best  given  in  the  words  of  Dr.  Richardson's 
journal : 

*■'■  In  the  morning,"  eaya  he,  *'  being  Simday,  October  20th,  we  agun 
urged  Michel  to  go  a-htmting,  that  he  might,  if  possible,  leave  us  some 
provision,  to-morrow  being  the  day  appointed  for  his  quitting  us ;  but  he 
showed  great  unwillingness  to  go  out,  and  lingered  about  the  fire  under 
the  pretense  of  cleaning  his  gun.  After  we  had  read  the  morning  service, 
I  went  about  noon  to  gather  some  tripe  de  roche^  leaving  Mr.  Hood  sit- 
ting before  the  tent  at  the  fireside  arguing  with  Michel.  Hepburn  was 
employed  cutting  down  a  tree  at  a  small  distance  from  the  tent,  being 
desirous  of  accumulating  a  quantity  of  firewood.  A  short  time  after  I 
went  out,  I  heard  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  about  ten  minutes  afterward 
Hepburn  called  to  me  in  a  voice  of  great  alarm  to  come  directly.  When 
I  arrived,  I  found  poor  Hood  lying  lifeless  at  the  fireside,  a  ball  having 
apparently  entered  his  forehea^.  I  was  at  first  horror-struck  with  the 
idea  that  in  a  fit  of  despondency  he  had  hurried  himself  into  the  pres- 
ence of  his  Almighty  Judge  by  an  act  of  bis  own  hand ;  but  the  con- 
duct of  Michel  soon  gave  rise  to  other  thoughts,  and  excited  suspicions 
which  were  confirmed,  when,  upon  examining  the  body,  I  found  that 
the  shot  had  entered  the  back  part  of  the  head  and  had  passed  out  at 
the  forehead,  while  the  muzzle  of  the  gun  had  been  applied  so  close  uh 
to  set  fire  to  the  nightcap  behind.  The  gun,  which  was  of  the  longest 
kind  supplied  to  the  Indians,  could  not  have  been  placed  in  the  position 
to  inflict  such  a  wound  except  by  a  second  person.  Upon  inquiring  of 
Michel  how  it  happened,  ho  replied  that  Mr.  Hood  had  sent  him  into 
the  tent  for  the  short  gun,  and  that  during  his  absence  the  long  gun 
had  gone  off,  he  did  not  know  whether  by  accident  or  not.  He  held 
the  short  gun  in  his  hand  at  the  time  he  was  speaking.  Hepburn  after- 
ward asserted,  that  previous  to  the  report  of  the  gun,  Mr.  Hood  and 
Michel  were  speaking  to  each  other  in  an  elevated,  angry  tone ; — he 
added,  that  Mr.  Hood  being  seated  at  the  fireside,  was  hid  from  him  by 
intervening  willows ;  but  that  on  hearing  the  report  he  looked  up,  and 
saw  Michel  rising  up  from  before  the  tent-door,  or  just  behind  where 
Mr.  Hood  was  seated,  and  then  going  into  the  tent.  Thinking  that  the 
gun  had  been  discharged  for  the  purpose  of  cleaning  it,  he  did  not  go 


816 


FRANKLIN'S  JOURNEY  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


to  the  firo  at  first ;  and  when  Michel  called  to  hiia  that  Mr.  Hood  waa 
dead,  a  considerable  time  had  elapsed.  ♦  ♦  *  Bickersteth's  Scripture 
Help  was  lying  open  beside  the  body,  as  if  it  had  fallen  from  hia  hand, 
and  it  is  probable  he  was  reading  it  at  the  instant  of  his  death." 

Such  was  the  melancholy  fate  of  Mr.  Hood,  a  young  officer  of  the 
highest  promise,  who,  by  his  conduct,  had  endeared  himself  to  every 
member  of  the  expedition,  and  whoso  sufferings,  as  they  were  more  in- 
tense, from  the  peculiarity  of  his  constitution,  were  borne  with  a  placid 
and  unpretending  fortitude,  which  it  was  impossible  to  contemplate 
without  emotion.  Both  Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn  were  convinced 
he  had  met  his  death  from  the  hands*  of  Michel ;  but  to  have  accused 
him  at  that  moment  would  have  been  the  extremity  of  rashness.  They 
were  so  reduced  by  famine  that  he  could  easily  have  overpowered  both. 
His  appearance  showed  that  he  possessed  secret  supplies  of  food ;  he  was 
of  great  bodily  strength,  and  was  armed  to  the  teeth,  carrying,  besides 
his  gun,  a  brace  of  pistols,  an  Indian  bayonet,  and  a  knife.  To  have 
hinted  a  suspicion,  therefore,  might  have  been  instantly  fatal,  and  they 
affected  to  consider  the  death  of  their  companion  entirely  accidental. 
As  his  weakness  had  been  the  chief  cause  of  delaying  their  journey,  they 
now  set  out  for  the  fort,  having  first  paid  the  last  rites  to  the  dead  in 
the  only  way  which  their  situation  would  permit.  The  ground  was  so 
hard,  and  their  strength  so  exhausted,  that  to  dig  a  grave  was  impos- 
sible ;  so  they  carried  the  body  into  the  willow  grove  behind  the  tent, 
and  retummg  to  the  fire,  read  the  funeral  scr\'ice  in  addition  to  their 
evening  devotions. 

In  the  morning,  having  singed  the  hair  off  a  portion  of  Mr.  Hood's 
buffalo  robe,  they  boiled  and  ate  it  for  breakfast.  Meanwhile,  the  con- 
duct of  Michel  was  so  extraordinary,  that  had  they  not  been  already 
convinced  of  his  guilt,  no  doubt  of  it  could  have  remained.  Though 
not  a  breath  of  their  suspicions  reached  his  ears,  he  repeatedly  protested 
that  he  was  incapable  of  committing  such  an  act ;  he  kept  constantly  on 
his  guard,  appeared  fearful  of  leaving  Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn 
alone  even  for  the  shortest  time,  and  when  Hepburn  spoke  he  listened 
anxiously,  though  very  imperfectly  acquainted  with  the  English  lan- 
guage, fixed  his  eyes  keenly  upon  him,  and  asked  fiercely  if  he  accused 
him  of  the  murder.  He  evinced  great  unwillingness  to  set  out  for  the 
fort,  and  wished  Dr.  Richardson  to  proceed  to  the  Coppermine  River, 
where  he  said  the  woods  would  supply  plenty  of  deer.  On  finding  this 
advice  disregarded,  his  conduct  became  more  and  more  alarming ;  he 
muttered  to  himself,  fell  into  sullen  fits  of  abstraction,  and  used  those 
convulsive  and  abrupt  gestures  often  involuntarily  exhibited  by  a  person 
whose  mind  is  full  of  some  dreadful  purpose.  Suddenly  awakening  from 
thb  reverie,  he  again  expressed  his  unwillingness  to  return  to  the  fort, 
and  renewed  his  solicitations  to  Dr.  Richardson  to  repair  to  the  southern 
woods,  where  they  would  find  ample  subsistence.  On  being  requested 
to  pursue  his  own  plan  alone,  and  leave  them  to  continue  their  journey, 


Mir*iByrfif  -       *—- 


SEA. 

Ir.  IIoo'l  was 
th'8  Scripturo 
from  hia  hand, 
eath." 

officer  of  the 
nself  to  every 

were  more  in- 
a  with  a  placid 

0  contemplate 
Fere  convinced 

have  accused 
ishncss.  They 
rpowered  both, 
•ffood;  he  was 
rrying,  besides 
jiife.  To  have 
fatal,  and  they 
rely  accidental, 
r  journey, they 

to  the  dead  in 
ground  was  so 
ive  was  impos- 
)ehind  the  tent, 
ddition  to  their 

of  Mr.  Hood's 
iwhile,  the  con- 
it  been  already 
vined.  Though 
ktedly  protested 
)t  constantly  on 

1  and  Hepburn 
)oke  he  listened 
he  English  lan- 
ly  if  he  accused 
9  set  out  for  the 
ppermine  River, 

On  finding  this 
re  alarming ;  he 
,  and  used  those 
Lted  by  a  person 
aAvakening  from 
urn  to  the  fort, 
'  *,o  the  southern 
being  requested 
le  their  journey, 


RICHARDSON    SHOOTS    MICHEL. 


817 


he  broke  into  an  ungovernable  fury,  accused  Hepburn  of  having  told 
stories  against  him,  and  assumed  such  airs  of  superiority  as  showed  that 
he  knew  they  were  both  in  his  power,  at  the  same  time  giving  vent  to 
expressions  of  hatred  against  the  white  people,  calling  them  deadly 
enemies,  an4  affirming  they  had  killed  and  eaten  his  uncle  and  two  of 
his  relations. 

None  of  these  menaces  -were  lost  upon  Richardson  and  He[»l>um ; 
both  felt  they  were  not  safe  in  this  man's  company  ;  and  those  dreadful 
surmises  rose  into  certainty  when  he  threw  out  hints  that  he  wojild  free 
himself  from  all  restraint  on  the  morrow.  Being  now  convinced  that,  as 
he  had  cruelly  murdered  Hood,  he  was  resolved  also  to  sacrifice  them, 
they  ascribed  his  not  having  already  done  so  to  the  circumstance  of  his 
not  knowing  the  way  to  the  fort,  and  requiring  their  guidance.  They 
came  to  this  conclusion  without  any  communication  with  each  other ; 
for  their  fierce  companion  would  not  leave  them  a  moment,  wjitching 
them  with  a  malignant  look,  and  frequently  muttering  threats  against 
Hepburn.  Toward  evening,  as  they  approached  the  spot  where  it  would 
be  necessary  to  stop  for  the  night,  Michel  halted  to  gather  tripe  de  rochet 
and  to  their  surprise  bade  them  walk  on,  and  he  would  soon  overtake 
them.  Hepburn  and  Dr.  Richardson,  now  left  alone  together  for  the 
first  time  since  Mr.  Hood's  death,  rapidly  opened  their  minds  to  each 
other.  In  addition  to  the  facts  already  mentioned,  others  came  to  light, 
which  left  not  the  slightest  doubt  as  to  Michel's  guilt ;  and  so  connnced 
was  Hepburn  of  there  being  no  safety  for  them  but  in  his  death,  that, 
though  a  man  of  extreme  benevolence  and  deep  religious  principle,  ho 
offered  to  bo  the  instrument  of  it  himself.  "  Had  my  own  life,"  says 
Dr.  Richardson,  "  alone  been  threatened,  I  would  not  have  purchased  it 
by  such  a  measure ;  but  I  considered  myself  as  intrusted  also  with  the 
protection  of  Hepburn's,  a  man  who  by  his  humane  attentions  and  de- 
votedness  had  so  endeared  himself  to  me,  that  I  felt  more  anxiety  for  his 
safety  than  for  my  own."  Animated  by  such  feelings,  and  convinced 
that  Michel's  death  was  necessary  to  self-preservation,  he  determined 
that  it  ought  to  be  by  his  own  and  not  by  Hepburn's  hand,  and  on  hia 
coming  up  shot  him  through  the  head  with  a  pistol.  It  appeared  that 
he  had  gathered  no  tripe  de  roche,  and  had  halted  to  put  his  gun  in 
or^er,  no  doubt  with  the  intention  of  attacking  them  when  in  the  act  of 
encamping. 

Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn  now  pursued  their  way  to  the  fort ; 
but  fatigue,  and  want  of  food  and  fuel,  had  nearly  proved  fatal  to  them. 
They  remarked,  however,  that  repeatedly  when  death  seemed  inevita- 
ble, an  unexpected  supply  of  provisions  again  restored  them ;  and  the 
confidence  that,  when  no  human  help  was  nigh,  they  were  supported  by 
a  mercifiil  God,  inspired  them  with  renewed  hope.  At  last  they  had  the 
delight  of  beholding  from  an  eminence  the  smoke  issuing  from  the  chim- 
ney of  the  fort,  and  immediately  after,  embracing  those  friends  for  whoso 


mm*' 


m 


Mi 


818        FRANKLIN'S   JOURNET   TO   THE    POLAR   SEA. 

fatu  they  had  entertained  so  many  melancholy  forebodings.  So  ended 
this  interesting  narrative. 

The  whole  party  were  now  once  more  united,  but  under  circum- 
stances of  the  most  distressing  privation  ;  all  emaciated  to  such  a  degree 
as  to  look  like  living  skeletons ;  their  hands  shook  from  weakness,  so 
that  to  take  an  aim  was  impossible ;  and  the  reindeer,  partridges,  and 
other  game,  flew  or  bounded  past  in  joyousness  and  security,  while  the 
unhappy  beings  who  beheld  them  were  gaunt  with  hunger.  The  winter 
was  closing  in  with  all  its  horrors ;  it  became  daily  more  diflicult  to  pro- 
cure fuel,  the  labor  of  cutting  and  carrying  the  logs  being  so  grievous 
that  only  Dr.  Richardson  and  Hepburn  could  undertake  it ;  and  to  scrape 
the  ground  for  bones,  and  to  cook  this  miserable  meal,  was  all  Captain 
Franklin  could  accomplish.  On  the  Ist  of  November  the  doctor  ob- 
tained some  tripe  de  roche ;  and  as  Peltier  and  Samandro  were  in  the 
last  stage  of  exhaustion,  it  was  hoped  a  little  of  the  soup  might  revive 
them.  All  was  in  vain;  they  tasted  a  few  spoonfuls,  but  soon  com- 
plained of  a  soreness  in  their  throats,  and  both  died  in  the  course  of  the 
night,  apparently  without  pain.  To  inter  the  bodies,  or  even  carry  them 
to  the  river,  was  a  task  for  which  the  imitcd  strength  of  the  survivors 
was  inadequate  ;  all  they  could  do  was  to  remove  them  into  an  opposite 
part  of  the  house ;  and  the  living  and  the  dead  remuned  in  awful  con- 
tiguity under  the  same  roof. 

The  party  was  now  reduced  to  four — ^Franklin,  Richardson,  Hepburn, 
and  Adam.  The  last  had  become  dreadfuUy  low  rince  the  death  of  his 
companions,  and  could  not  bear  to  be  left  done  for  a  moment.  Their 
stock  of  bones  was  exhausted,  and  in  a  short  time  it  was  evident  that  the 
severity  of  the  frost  must  render  the  gathering  of  the  tripe  de  roche  im- 
possible. Under  these  circumstances,  with  death  by  famine  approaching 
every  hour,  this  little  band  of  pious  and  brave  men  were  supported  by 
an  unwavering  reliance  on  the  mercy  of  God.  •*  We  read  prayers,"  says 
Captain  Franklin,  "and  a  portion  of  the  New  Testament  in  the  morning 
and  evening,  as  had  been  our  practice  since  Dr.  Richardson's  arrival ; 
and  I  may  remark,  that  the  performance  of  these  duties  always  afforded 
us  the  greatest  consolation,  serving  to  reanimate  our  hope  in  the  meroy 
of  the  Omnipotent,  who  alone  could  save  and  deUver  us."  Hitherto  Dr. 
Richardson  and  Hepburn  had  been  the  healtliicst  of  (he  party,  but  they 
had  ovcrnTOught  themselves,  and  both  sank  rapidly.  Owing  to  their 
loss  of  flesh,  the  hardness  of  the  floor,  from  which  they  were  only  pro- 
tected by  a  single  blanket,  rendered  the  whole  surface  of  their  bodies 
sore ;  yet  the  labor  of  turning  from  one  side  to  the  other  was  too  much 
for  them.  As  their  strength  sank,  their  mental  faculties  partook  of  the 
weakness  of  their  frame ;  and,  to  employ  the  candid  and  simple  expres- 
sions of  the  excellent  leader,  **  an  unreasonable  pettiahness  with  each 
other  began  to  manifest  itself,  each  believing  the  other  weaker  in  intel- 
Icct  than  himself,  and  more  in  need  of  advice  and  assistance."  During 
this  gloomy  period,  after  the  first  acute  pains  of  hunrjcr,  which  lasted 


El    SEA. 

iiigfl.    So  ended 

t  under  circura- 
;o  such  a  degree 
am  weakness,  so 

partridges,  and 
3urity,  while  the 
er.  The  winter 
)  difficult  to  pro- 
eing  so  grievous 
it;  and  to  scrape 
,  was  all  Captwn 

the  doctor  ob- 
idro  were  in  the 
rap  might  revive 
,  but  soon  com- 
the  course  of  the 

even  carry  them 

of  the  survivors 
I  into  an  opposite 
ned  in  awfiU  con- 

ardson,  Hepburn, 
the  death  of  his 
moment.    Their 
s  evident  that  the 
tripe  de  roche  im- 
nune  approaching 
ere  supported  by 
sad  prayers,"  says 
nt  in  the  morning 
iiardson's  arrival; 
)S  always  afforded 
liope  in  the  mercy 
18."    Hitherto  Dr. 
ie  party,  but  they 
Owing  to  their 
ley  were  only  pro- 
se of  their  bodies 
;her  was  too  much 
jes  partook  of  the 
and  simple  expres- 
biahness  with  each 
ler  weaker  in  intel- 
sistance."    During 
n^'cr,  Avhich  lasted 


THE    SURVIVORS    ARE    SAVED. 


819 


but  three  or  four  days,  had  subsided,  they  generally  enjoyed  the  re- 
freshment of  sleep,  accompanied  by  dreams  which  for  the  most  part  par- 
took of  a  pleasant  cliaracter,  and  very  often  related  to  the  pleasures  of 
feasting. 

On  November  Tth,  Adam  had  passed  a  restless  night,  being  dis- 
quieted by  gloomy  apprehensions  of  approaching  death,  which  they  tried 
in  vnin  to  di8|)el.  He  was  so  low  in  the  morning  as  scarcely  to  bo  ablo 
to  speak,  and  Captain  Franklin  remained  by  his  bedside  to  cheer  him  as 
much  as  possible,  while  the  doctor  and  Hepburn  went  out  to  cut  wood. 
They  had  hardly  begun  their  labor  when  they  were  amaxed  at  hearing 
the  report  of  a  musket,  and  could  scarcely  believe  that  there  was  any 
one  near  till  they  heard  a  shout,  and  espied  three  Indians  close  to  tbo 
house.  Adam  and  Franklin  heard  the  latter  noise,  and  were  fearful 
that  some  part  of  the  house  had  fallen  upon  one  of  their  companions — a 
disaster  which  had  been  thought  not  unlikely.  Tlie  alarm  was  only 
momentary;  for  Dr.  Richardson  came  in  to  communicate  the  joyful 
intelligence  that  relief  had  arrived.  Ho  and  Captain  Franklin  imme- 
diately addressed  their  thanksgivings  to  the  Throne  of  Mercy  for  this 
deliverance ;  but  poor  Adam  was  in  so  low  a  state  that  he  could  scarcely 
comprehend  the  information.  When  the  Indians  entered,  he  attempted 
to  rise,  but  immediately  sank  down  again.  But  for  this  seasonable 
interposition  of  Providence,  his  existence  must  have  terminated  in  a  few 
hours,  and  that  of  the  rest  probably  in  not  many  days. 

The  Indians  who  had  been  dispatched  by  Mr.  Back,  had  traveled 
with  great  expedition,  and  brought  a  small  supply  of  provisions.  They 
imprudently  presented  too  much  food  at  first ;  and  though  aware  of  the 
effects  which  might  arise  from  a  surfeit,  and  warned  by  Dr.  Richardson 
to  eat  very  sparingly,  the  sight  of  the  venison  was  irresistible ;  and  it 
was  devoured  by  them  all,  not  excluding  the  doctor  himself,  with  an 
avidity  that  soon  produced  the  most  acute  pjms,  Avhich  during  the  night 
deprived  them  of  rest.  Adam,  whose  weakness  rendered  him  unable  to 
feed  himself  was  not  subjected  to  the  some  inconvenience,  and  taking 
moderate  meals,  revived  hourly.  All  now  was  thankfulness  and  cheerful 
activity.  Boudel-kell,  the  youngest  Indian,  after  an  hour's  rest,  returned 
to  the  encampment  of  Akaitcho,  the  Dog-rib  chief,  carying  a  note  from 
Captain  Franklin,  and  a  request  for  another  supply  of  provisions.  The 
two  others,  named  in  their  familiar  manner  Crooked  Foot  and  the  Rat, 
remained  to  nurse  the  white  men.  Under  their  care  the  apartment 
lately  so  desolate,  and  something  between  a  sepulchcr  and  a  lazar-house, 
awnmed  a  gladdened  look,  which  had  the  best  effect.  The  dead  bodies 
were  removed,  the  room  cleaned  of  its  filth  and  fragments  of  pounded 
bones,  and  large  cheerful  fires  produced  a  sensation  of  comfort  to  which 
they  had  long  been  strangers.  Tlie  poor  sufferers  had  often  cast  a  wish- 
ful eye  on  a  pile  of  dried  wood  near  the  river,  but  were  utterly  unable 
to  carry  it  up  the  bank.  When  pointed  out  to  the  Indians,  they  fetched 
it  homo  with  a  rapidity  which  astonished  their  feeble  friends.    "  They 


■auMMfpi 


I 


!  • 


820 


PRANKLIN'8  JOURNET  TO  THE  POLAR  SEA. 


set  about  every  thing,"  says  Franklin,  "  witli  an  activity  which  amazed 
us.  Indeed,  contrasted  with  our  emaciated  figures  and  extreme  de- 
hility,  their  frames  appeared  to  us  gigantic,  and  their  strength  super- 
natural." 

Under  the  care  of  the  Indians,  and  the  blessing  of  wholesome  and 
regular  meals,  the  strength  of  the  party  was  so  ftr  restored,  that,  al- 
though still  feeble,  on  the  10th,  after  having  imited  in  prayer  and 
thanksgiving  to  God  for  their  deliverance,  they  left  Fort  Enterprise — 
a  spot  where,  as  they  had  formerly  enjojed  much  comfort  if  not  hap[)i- 
ness,  they  had  latterly  experienced  a  degree  of  misery  scarcely  to  bo 
paralleled.  Tlie  Indians  treated  them  with  imremitting  kindness,  gave 
them  their  own  snow-shoos,  and  walked  at  their  side  to  bo  ready  to  lift 
them  up  when  they  fell.  In  this  manner  they  jnished  forward  to  the 
abode  of  Akaitcho,  the  Indian  chief,  who  welcomed  them  with  the  ut- 
most hospitality.  Soon  after  they  received  letters  from  their  friends  at 
Fort  Providence,  and  the  messenger  also  brought  two  trains  of  dogs,  a 
package  of  spirits  and  tobacco  for  the  Indians,  and  a  supply  of  shirts  and 
clothes  for  Captain  Franklin  and  his  companions.  Tlic  gratification  of 
changing  their  linen,  which  had  been  iminterruptedly  worn  ever  since 
their  departure  from  the  sea-coast,  is  described  as  conveying  an  intensity 
of  comfort  to  which  no  words  can  do  justice.  From  this  spot  their  pro- 
gress to  Fort  Providence  and  thence  to  Montreal  was  prosperous  and 
easy  ;  and  thus  terminated  their  long,  fatiguing,  and  disastrous  travels 
in  North  America,  having  journeyed  by  water  and  by  land,  including 
their  navigation  of  the  Polar  Sea,  five  thousand  five  hundred  and  fifty 
miles. 

Notwithstanding  the  appalling  eufierings  which  he  had  endured, 
Franklin  had  not  been  at  liome  a  year,  before,  hearing  of  the  determi- 
nation of  the  government  to  make  another  effort  at  discovering  a  north- 
ern passage,  he  volunteered  his  8er\'iccs.  Dr.  Richardson,  also,  ofiTered 
to  accompany  him,  and  undertake  the  survey  of  the  coast  between  the 
Mackenzie  and  Coppermine  Rivers,  while  Franklin  made  the  attempt  to 
reach  Icy  Cape.  These  offers  were  accepted,  and  the  expedition  was 
fitted  out  with  a  liberality  and  forethought  which  secured  them  against 
such  terrible  disasters  as  had  befallen  the  former.  They  sailed  from 
Liverpool  in  February,  1825,  and  proceeded  to  the  Arctic  regions  by 
way  of  New  York,  Niagara,  Lake  Superior,  and  Lake  Winnipeg.  They 
did  not  reach  the  banks  of  Mackenzie's  River  before  the  middle  of  Au- 
gust, where,  as  it  was  too  late  to  conunence  the  work  of  exploration, 
they  established  their  winter  quarters,  which  they  called  Fort  Franklin. 
Lieutenant  Back  superintended  the  erection  of  these  buildingp,  while 
Franklin  descended  the  Mackenzie  to  the  Polar  Sea,  and  Richardson 
set  off  on  an  exploring  tour  to  the  head  waters  of  Dease's  River.  Both 
parties  returned  to  the  fort  in  September,  and  there  passed  the  winter 
in  comparative  comfort. 

They  set  out  on  the  15th  of  Jime,  1826,  and  descended  the  Macken- 


WBai 


-«i&i 


.«^ 


A    SEA. 

f  which  amazed 
id  extromo  de- 
Btrcugth  Buper- 

wholesomo  and 
jstored,  that,  al- 
in  prayer  aiid 
jrt  Enterprise — 
)rt  if  not  happi- 
ly scarcely  to  be 
I  kindness,  gave 
bo  ready  to  lift 
forward  to  the 
[lem  with  the  ut- 
1  their  friends  at 
trains  of  dogs,  a 
iply  of  shirts  and 
gratification  of 
worn  ever  since 
ying  an  intensity 
is  spot  their  pro- 
,8  prosperous  and 
disastrous  travels 
y  land,  including 
undred  and  fifty 

be  had  endured, 
of  the  determi- 
jcovering  a  north- 
Ison,  also,  offered 
3ast  between  the 
de  the  attempt  to 
le  expedition  was 
ired  them  against 
They  sailed  from 
\rctio  regions  by 
Winnipeg.  They 
he  middle  of  Au- 
rk  of  exploration, 
ed  Fort  Franklin, 
e  buildingp,  while 
I,  and  Richardson 
ise's  River.  Both 
passed  the  winter 

oded  the  Macken- 


FRANKLIN'S   SECOND   JOURNEY. 


821 


zio  Rivor  nearly  to  its  mouth,  when  the  two  purtiis  Hcparatcd,  Franklin 
making  westward  along  the  coast  for  Icy  Cupi-,  whilo  Dr.  Richardson 
steered  eastward,  for  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine.  Tlie  former  con- 
tinued to  advance  along  the  coast  until  he  had  passed  tin.  boundary  lino 
between  Jtritish  America  and  the  Russian  possessions,  when  lie  encoun- 
tered much  drift  ice.  The  weather  was  foggy  and  cohl ;  his  frail  boats 
Avere  leaky  and  unsafe,  and  signs  of  winter  began  to  appear,  so  that  ho 
prudently  commenced  his  retiu'n  on  the  18th  of  August.  At  this  time 
Captain  iJeechcy,  who  had  been  sent  out  by  way  of  Behring's  Straits, 
to  effect  a  conununicatiou  with  lilni,  was  only  a  hundred  and  forty-six 
miles  to  the  westward,  but  a  largo  body  of  ico  intervened.  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson wtis  more  successful,  lie  followed  the  coast  for  a  distance  of 
five  hundred  and  filly  miles,  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine 
River  without  accident,  and  returned  to  Fort  Franklin  by  tho  Ist  of 
September.  Franklin  arrived  soon  afterward,  and  tho  united  expedition 
returned  to  England.  They  reached  Liverpool  in  September,  1827, 
having  been  absent  two  years  and  eight  months.  Tho  most  interesting 
portion  of  this  journey  was  their  intercourse  with  tho  various  tribes  of 
Esquimaux,  on  the  shores  of  the  Polar  Sea ;  but  the  limits  of  this  article 
will  not  permit  us  to  copy  the  spirited  narratives  of  tho  two  command- 
ers. They  were  frequently  on  tho  verge  of  hostilities,  but  fortunately 
extricated  themselves  without  tho  shedding  of  blood.  There  was  no 
serious  accident  duiing  the  whole  course  of  the  expedition,  and  if  Frank- 
lin did  not  push  his  explorations  as  far  westward  as  ho  hoped,  he  had 
certainly  cause  to  be  grateful  to  the  Providence  which  preserved  him 
and  bis  party  from  tho  porila  and  sufferings  of  his  first  journey. 

81 


M 


MEYENDORFF'S 


JOURNEY    TO    BOKHARA. 


The  commercial  relations  which  have  for  a  long  time  existed  between 
Russia  and  the  Kingdom  of  Bokhara — the  most  powerful  state  of  what 
is  called  Independent  Tartary — have  been  greatly  extended  during  the 
present  century.  Envoys  from  the  Khan  of  Bokhara  had  occasionally 
visited  St.  Petersburg,  and  when,  in  the  year  1820,  one  of  them  ex- 
pressed a  desire,  on  the  part  of  his  master,  to  see  a  Russian  embassy  in 
Bokhara,  the  Emperor  Alexander  determined  not  to  neglect  so  favorable 
an  opportunity  of  developing  more  fully  the  commerce  which  was  spring- 
ing up  between  the  two  countries,  as  well  as  of  obtaining  information 
concerning  a  region  which  had  rarely  been  visited  by  Europeans.  He 
therefore  appointed  M.  de  Negri,  actmg  Counselor  of  State,  as  Envoy 
to  the  Khan  of  Bokhara,  accompanied  by  Baron  Mcyendorff,  who  was 
charged  with  the  task  of  collecting  geographical  and  statistical  informa- 
tion concerning  Tartary,  Dr.  Pander,  naturalist,  and  three  interpreters 
of  Orenbourg.  After  the  return  of  the  mission.  Baron  Meyendorff  wrote 
in  French  an  account  of  the  journey,  which  was  published  in  Paris  in  the 
year  1827.  The  following  abridgment  is  given  in  the  author's  own 
language,  omitting  merely  those  portions  which  are  of  little  general  in- 
terest : 

We  received  orders  to  make  our  preparations  in  the  month  of 
June,  1820,  and  by  the  following  August  were  in  Orenbourg,  a  city  fif- 
teen hundred  miles  distant  from  St.  Petersburg.  As  we  were  to  tra- 
verse immense  steppes,  frequented  only  by  wandering  hordes,  the  govern- 
ment furnished  us  with  an  escort  consicting  of  two  hundred  Cossacks 
and  two  hundred  infantry,  to  which  were  added  twenty-five  Bashkir 
troopers.  We  took  with  us  two  pieces  of  artillery ;  three  hundred  and 
fifty-eight  camels  carried  the  baggage ;  altogether  we  had  four  hundred 
horses.  It  required  six  weeks  at  Orenbourg  to  make  preparations  for 
the  journey  and  to  supply  our  troop  with  every  thing  necessary  for  the 
passage  of  the  desert.  It  was  decided  that  the  provisions  should  be 
transported  on  camels,  and  that  but  twenty-five  chariots  would  be  taken 


mS« 


I 


824 


MEYENDORPP'S   JOURNEY    TO   BOKHARA. 


I 


along,  for  the  men  who  might  fall  sick  or  he  wounded  on  the  route. 
Each  chariot  was  drawn  by  three  horses,  and  driven  by  a  Bashkir.  As 
wc  would  have  to  cross  some  rivers  in  the  steppe  of  the  Kirghizes,  wo 
were  furnished  with  two  boats. 

A  two-month's  march  hi  the  desert  would  require  for  each  soldier 
one  hundred  and  five  pounds  of  biscuit,  and  for  each  horse  four  quiritals 
of  oats,  besides  the  oatmeal  for  the  troops ;  a  double  supply  of  ammu- 
nition for  our  two  pieces  of  artillery ;  fifteen  kibitkas  or  felt  tents ;  two 
hundred  casks  for  carrying  water  in  the  deserts ;  and  finally,  several 
kegs  of  brandy.  Three  hundred  and  twenty  camels  were  loaded  with 
the  provisions  of  the  escort,  and  thirty-eight  with  the  baggage  and  pro- 
visions of  the  persons  attached  to  the  embassy.  The  export  of  Russian 
money  being  prohibited,  it  was  necessary  to  procure  ducats ;  but  the 
merchants  of  Orenbourg  had  not  a  sufficient  quantity  of  them ;  search 
was  then  made  in  TroKtsk,  a  city  four  hundred  miles  distant ;  but  this 
attempt  failing,  a  courier  was  finally  dispatched  to  Moscow,  who  ob- 
tained the  required  sum  at  the  exchange  in  that  city,  after  an  additional 
journey  of  a  thousand  miles. 

Many  unforeseen  delays  thus  combined  to  prevent  our  departure 
until  the  fine  season  was  past,  and  now  the  frosts  appeared,  the  bad 
weather  began,  and  rain,  snow,  and  hail  succeeded  each  other.    We  had 
several  conferences  with  the  Kirghizes,  for  the  purpose  of  fixing  the  route 
we  were  to  take,  and  learning  the  difficulties  we  might  expect  to  en- 
counter.   Five  of  these  people  were  selected  as  our  guides.    Fmally,  on 
the  10th  of  October,  the  whole  escort,  collected  on  the  great  square  of 
Orenbourg,  was  reviewed  by  the  Governor-General,  who  caused  mass  to 
be  said,  and  gave  the  travelers  a  parting  benediction.    The  solemnity 
of  the  religious  ceremonies  was  heightened  by  a  presentiment  of  the 
dangers  to  which  the  expedition  might  be  exposed.    It  was  possible  that 
the  Kirghizes,  always  eager  for  pillage,  always  dissatbfied  at  seeing  the 
Russians  explore  their  deserts,  might  attack  us  by  night,  or  at  least  de- 
stroy all  vegetation  upon  our  route  across  the  steppe.    But  the  Khivans, 
who  occupy  a  part  of  the  territory  south  of  the  Aral  Sea,  were  more  to 
be  feared  than  the  Kirghizes  themselves,  for,  not  less  adroit,  and  more 
united,  they  sometimes  made  excursions  to  the  number  of  four  or  five 
thousand.    Although  such  a  mass  of  cavalry  could  inspire  but  little  fear 
in  our  infantry,  yet  the  escort  would  find  it  impossible  to  defend  a  con- 
voy of  seven  hundred  camels,  including  those  of  the  Bokharian  mer- 
chants which  were  placed  under  our  protection.    These  people,  in  their 
sudden  and  unforeseen  attacks  upon  caravans,  eadeavor,  by  cries  and 
shouting,  to  terrify  the  camels,  which,  once  dispersed,  easily  fiiU  into  their 
power.    Besides  the  danger  of  the  route,  we  might  run  some  risk  in 
Bokharia  itself,  a  country  inhabited  by  a  barbarous  and  warlike  people. 
Before  our  arrival  at  Orenbourg,  some  Bokharian  merchants  had  said 
confidentially  to  their  friends :  "  Perhaps  none  of  the  Christian  travelers 
will  return  home.    Should  even  the  Khan  of  Khiva  let  them  pass,  our 


ARA. 

id  on  the  route. 
f  a  Bashkir.  As 
he  Kirghizes,  wo 

for  each  soldier 
)rse  four  quiritala 
supply  of  ammu- 
r  felt  tents ;  two 
d  finally,  several 
ivere  loaded  with 
jaggage  and  pro- 
xport  of  Russian 
ducats ;  but  tho 
of  them ;  search 
distant ;  but  this 
Moscow,  who  ob- 
fter  an  additional 

it  our  departure 
ppeared,  the  bad 

other.  We  had 
)f  fixing  the  route 
;ht  expect  to  en- 
ides.  Finally,  on 
B  great  square  of 
10  caused  mass  to 
1.  The  solemnity 
isentiment  of  the 

was  possible  that 
Bed  at  seeing  the 
ht,  or  at  least  de- 
But  the  Ehivans, 
Jea,  were  more  to 

adroit,  and  more 
ler  of  four  or  five 
pire  but  little  fear 
e  to  defend  a  con- 
e  Bokharian  mer- 
ge people,  in  their 
ivor,  by  cries  and 
isily  fell  into  their 
run  some  risk  in 
jd  warlike  people, 
jrchants  bad  said 
Christian  travelers 
et  them  pass,  our 


MM 


i 


I 


ll 


%i 


KlllCilllZ     WITH     HOTTIjK     and     liUWl.. 


IN    THB    CAMP    OP    HAROUN    UHAZI.       Page  aUS. 


^4 


^i 


VISIT    TO    A    EIROIIIZ    CAMP. 


825 


klian  will  not  commit  the  fault  of  allowing  them  to  return.  Why  do  you 
wish  the  Christians  to  become  acquainted  with  our  country  ?" 

From  Orcnbourg  to  the  mountains  of  Mughodjar  the  appearance  of 
the  country  is  mostly  uniform.  The  surface  is  undulating  and  broken 
by  chains  of,  hills,  whose  slopes  often  extend  from  ten  to  fifloon  miles. 
The  absence  of  wood  and  the  slight  elevation  of  the  hills,  exi)ose  to  view 
a  widely-extended  horizon,  where  the  eye  seeks  in  vain  for  some  object 
on  which  to  rest.  Aridity,  uniformity,  and  silence  characterize  a  stoppe. 
Toward  the  end  of  May  the  rays  of  a  burning  sun  have  scorched  the 
vegetation  of  these  regions,  and  thenceforth  the  ground  becomes  of  a 
dirty  yellow  color. 

On  arriving  at  the  banks  of  the  Ilek  we  saw,  for  the  first  time,  a  large 
village  or  aoul,  formed  of  Kirghiz  tents.  Flocks  of  sheep,  numbering 
from  five  to  six  thousand,  first  attracted  our  attention.  In  approaching 
this  village  we  saw  tents  of  white  or  brown  felt,  of  every  size ;  there 
were  about  fifty  of  them,  placed  irregularly  in  groups  of  three,  four,  and 
even  six.  We  soon  learned  that  this  was  the  camp  of  the  sultan,  Ilaroun 
Ghazi,  one  of  the  principal  Kirghiz  chie&.  He  was  awaiting  our  arrival 
in  order  to  accompany  us  to  the  Sir,  and,  by  this  act  of  kindness,  to  give 
evidence  of  his  attachment  to  the  Russian  government,  whoso  assistance 
in  fact  he  greatly  needed,  on  account  of  his  quarrels  Avith  the  Khan  of 
Khiva.  The  day  following  our  arrival  the  sultan  came  on  horseback  to 
visit  M.  de  Negri.  He  was  surrounded  by  a  hundred  Kirghizes,  and 
wore  a  turban,  which  is  not  customary  in  this  desert,  but  is  regarded  as 
a  sign  of  piety  on  the  part  of  a  Mohammedan,  who  wishes  to  bo  dis- 
tinguished from  the  mass  of  the  Kirghizes.  All  these  nomadic  people 
wished  to  penetrate  into  the  tent  of  the  Charge  d'Afftures ;  in  fact  they 
crowded  in  while  there  was  any  room  to  be  had,  and  immediately  squat- 
ted upon  the  ground. 

The  interior  of  the  tent,  filled  with  these  ill-looking  figures,  presented 
a  strange  scene.  The  sultan  alone  had  a  feir  complexion,  with  large  and 
beautiful  black  eyes;  bis  bearing  was  mild  but  serious.  We  readily 
perceived  that  he  was  a  man  of  very  good  sense.  His  visit  lasted  an 
hour  and  a  half.  On  the  morrow  I  went  to  see  him ;  meeting  with  an 
assembly  of  about  fifty  Kirghizes  on  my  way,  I  approached  them  and 
soon  learned  that  they  had  assembled  to  execute  the  sentence  pro- 
nounced by  the  sultan  against  one  of  their  fellow-countrymen  who  had 
stolen  a  horse.  He  was  condemned  to  death  according  to  the  laws  of 
the  Koran,  but  some  of  the  older  Kirghizes  prayed  the  prince  to  pardon 
him,  in  order  that  Providence  might  favor  the  expedition  he  was  about 
to  undertake,  and  that  his  clemency  might  be  a  happy  augury  for  their 
reunion  Avith  the  Russians.  The  sultan  yielded  to  this  appeal,  and  the 
penalty  was  mitigated.  The  thief,  half-naked,  with  a  piece  of  black  felt 
around  his  neck  and  hanging  upon  his  shoulders,  was  forced,  by  two 
men  on  horseback  armed  with  Avhips,  to  run  to  the  next  tent,  Avhcre  his 
figure  was  blackened  with  soot,  after  which  he  Avas  again  driven  through 


i 


826 


MEYENDOBFF'S  JOURNEY  TO  BOKHARA. 


tlie  crowd  of  Kirghizes.  They  then  fsistened  to  the  tail  of  a  horse  a 
rope  which  the  thief  was  compelled  to  hold  in  his  teeth,  and  he  ran  thus 
behind  the  horse  while  two  men  made  it  trot ;  others  followed,  striking 
the  thief  heavy  blows  with  whips.  The  greater  part  of  the  Kirghizct* 
who  assisted  iu  this  punishment  laughed  aloud,  while  others  swoie. 
Finally,  after  a  race  of  several  minutes,  they  desisted ;  ho  went  to  thank 
the  sultan,  who  had  not  witnessed  the  castigation,  and  promised  him 
never  to  commit  theft  again.  Meanwhile  the  horse  of  the  thief  suffered 
the  fate  which  had  been  destined  for  his  master.  His  throat  was  cut, 
and  he  was  instantly  dismembered  and  divided,  not  without  loud  shouts 
and  uproar,  and  the  cracking  of  whips. 

After  witnessing  this  scene  I  went  to  the  sultan,  who  obliged  me  to 
wait  a  few  minutes  while  he  had  his  tent  decorated.  At  length  I  en- 
tered and  found  him  seated  near  the  middle  of  a  large  round  tent ;  his 
friends  were  sitting  in  a  semicircle  on  one  side,  while  on  the  other  were 
places  prepared  for  us.  The  sides  of  the  apartment  were  adorned  with 
tapestry ;  suspended  to  a  cord  were  articles  of  clothing,  some  tiger-skins, 
exposed  for  sale,  a  rich  diadem  of  gold  set  with  turkoises  and  rubies, 
and  the  head-dress  of  a  Kirghiz  female.  There  were  likewise  dried 
meats,  large  skin  bags  of  mare's  milk,  and  wooden  vessels.  Objects  of 
luxury  were  thus  mingled  with  those  of  necessity,  giving  evidence  of  a 
love  of  display,  combined  with  savage  tastes  and  customs. 

After  leaving  the  waters  of  the  Ilek  Ave  crossed  the  summit  of  the 
Bassagha  range  and  then  forded  the  Kubleili-temir,  after  having  broken 
the  ice  with  hatchets.  I  was  walking  along  the  bank,  sometimes  on  the 
ice  and  sometimes  on  land,  looking  for  petrifactions  or  curious  conglom- 
erates, when  suddenly  I  perceived  in  the  air  a  large  animal  which  had 
leaped  from  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  seemed  about  to  precipitate  itself 
upon  me.  I  retreated  and  it  fell  at  my  feet  upon  the  ice,  which  it  broke, 
at  the  same  time  shattering  its  bones.  It  was  a  sai'ga,  a  species  of  ante- 
lope, the  first  that  I  had  ever  seen.  It  had  been  chased  by  some  Cos- 
sacks of  the  convoy,  who  had  pursued  it  over  the  plain  to  the  brink  of 
the  precipice.  In  escaping  them  it  had  run  upon  its  own  destruction, 
through  the  effect  of  that  blind  terror  which  characterizes  the  saigas, 
and  which  often  delivers  them  up  to  the  hunters.  I  have  been  assured 
by  people  worthy  of  credit  that  in  the  mountains  of  Guberluisk  and 
Ural,  toward  the  month  of  June,  the  season  of  the  great  migrations  of 
the  saiga,  they  have  seen  flocks  of  eight  or  nine  thousand  of  these  ante- 
lopes. Their  flesh  is  delicious,  and  their  skin  is  made  into  garments.  It 
is  generally  very  difficult  to  approach  them,  except  during  the  great 
heats  of  summer ;  this  animal  then  seeks  the  shade,  and  frequently  a 
score  of  saigas  stand  behind  each  other  with  the  head  down,  while  the 
foremost  of  the  flock  conceals  its  own  in  a  hole,  or  behind  a  rock.  In 
this  position  they  can  easily  be  surprised ;  the  hunter  kills  the  foremost, 
the  second  usually  takes  its  place  and  presents  itself  to  his  blows,  un- 
til he  kills  several  in  succession. 


liMii 


IMHil 


-«a.«  -..,,.«   M,m^«.u-,-wix-.iMmf^-^a.\m-^:..^ii,XMMK.r,.^wii-rMfi.am,' 


RA. 

I  of  a  horse  a 

nd  he  ran  thus 

owed,  striking 

the  Kirghizes 

others  8wo\e. 

went  to  thank 

promised  him 

e  thief  suffered 

throat  was  cut, 

out  loud  shouts 

obliged  me  to 
At  length  I  en- 
round  tent ;  his 
I  the  other  were 
fe  adorned  with 
ome  tiger-skins, 
ises  and  rubies, 
I  likewise  dried 
els.  Objects  of 
g  evidence  of  a 
18. 

,e  summit  of  the 
ir  having  broken 
ometimes  on  the 
jurious  conglom- 
nimal  which  had 
:)recipitate  itself 
},  which  it  broke, 
1  species  of  ante- 
ed  by  some  Cos- 
i  to  the  brink  of 
own  destruction, 
erizes  the  saigas, 
ive  been  assured 
i"  Guberlinsk  and 
;at  migrations  of 
ind  of  these  ante- 
nto  garments.    It 
during  the  great 
and  frequently  a 
1  down,  while  the 
ihind  a  rock.    In 
alls  the  foremost, 
to  his  blows,  un- 


NIOIIT   SEARJH    FOR    WATER. 


827 


From  the  Tcmir  wo  bore  toward  the  heights  of  Mussevil  which  re- 
semble those  of  Bassagha,  and  we  could  see  the  Mugodjar  Mountains, 
distant  about  forty  miles.  These  mountains,  which  rise  up  majestically, 
and  present  a  bold  outluie  on  the  horizon,  produce  a  very  picturesque 
effect.  Nevertheless,  we  had  a  great  desire  to  see  them  behind  us,  that 
we  might  be  no  longer  exposed  to  the  groat  cold  and  the  storms :  for, 
from  what  the  Kirghizes  say,  the  southern  slope  of  these  mountains  of- 
fers a  much  less  rigorous  climate.  Thus  &r,  however,  the  weather  had 
been  quite  favorable.  On  leaving  them,  we  first  passed  through  a  level 
country,  afterward  through  deserts  covered  with  moving  sand,  and  over 
mountains  naked  and  destitute  of  vegetation.  If  the  reader  will  imagine 
several  salt  lakes  and  some  level  plains,  the  soil  of  which,  formed  of  a  soft 
blue  clay,  yields  under  the  feet  of  the  traveler,  and  which  shows  the  ordi- 
nary indications  of  the  diminution  and  retreat  of  the  waters  of  the  sea,  he 
Avill  have  a  sufficiently  correct  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  surface  of  this 
country. 

On  the  2d  of  November  our  chief  guide,  Emantchi-Bey,  who  had 
not  for  ten  years  traversed  the  coimtry  through  which  wo  were  passing, 
advised  us  that  after  we  had  gone  fifteen  miles  litre  should  stop  at  Kaun- 
jur,  as  he  was  confident  that  we  would  find  water  only  in  the  Khoja-kul, 
a  lake  situated  more  than  twelve  miles  further.  We  were  unwilling  to 
believe  him,  for  the  Kirghizes,  who  were  interested  in  obstructing  our 
march,  had  already  frequently  deceived  us.  We  then  continued  our 
journey ;  the  day  was  declining  and  nothing  as  yet  indicated  the  prox- 
imity of  the  lake;  the  night  surprised  us,  and  as  it  was  now  the  season 
when  the  nights  are  darkest,  it  was  very  difficult  to  find  the  way  through 
the  steppe,  which  presented  no  traces  of  a  road.  We  could  no  longer 
distinguish  the  summits  of  the  mountains,  nor  the  hills,  nor  the  tombs 
by  means  of  which  the  natives  direct  their  journey,  and  without  which 
it  would  be  very  easy  to  go  astray.  Some  prudent  Kirghizes  advised 
us  to  halt,  to  spare  ourselves  useless  fatigue,  and  to  sleep  instead  of 
searching  for  something  to  drink.  But  as  we  had  announced  that  we 
would  go  to  the  lake,  we  determined  to  persevere.  Several  Kirghizes 
gave  themselves  all  imaginary  trouble  in  order  not  to  lose  the  direction. 
Always  on  horseback,  they  dispersed  themselves  before  us  and  sought 
to  discover  some  little  path,  a  certain  index  of  the  vicinity  of  water. 
A  well,  a  hole  filled  with  water,  or  a  lake,  are  points  of  meeting  for 
the  wanderers  of  these  deserts,  and  thus  the  paths  are  naturally  formed. 
After  having  traveled  several  hours  of  an  obscure  night,  we  began  to 
be  tormented  with  the  fear  of  losing  our  true  route,  when  suddenly  a 
Kirghiz  struck  a  light  a  mile  in  advance  of  the  column  and  produced 
by  the  sparks  a  magical  effect — an  expedient  employed  by  the  Kirghizes 
when,  during  the  nigl^t,  they  are  about  to  unharness  their  horses,  and 
one  of  them,  having  found  the  true  road,  wishes  to  assemble  his  comrades 
there.  We  followed  our  new  guide  for  two  or  three  miles,  and  finally  ar- 
rived, at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  upon  the  banks  of  the  Khoja-kul. 


1^ 
It 


828 


MEYENDORPF'8  JODRNBY  TO  BOKHARA. 


On  leaving  Elioja-kul  we  directed  our  course  toward  Cul-kuduk — the 
slave's  well — situated  on  the  edge  of  the  desert  of  Uorzouk.  This  des- 
ert is  composed  of  moving  sand,  which  is  fonned  by  the  wind  into  steep 
liillocks,  and  is  continually  changing.  Wo  found  it  the  more  difficult  to 
convey  our  chariots  over  these  deep  sands  because  the  horses  had  been 
much  enfeebled  by  poor  feed.  Arrived  at  Cul-kuduk  we  burned  ten  of 
our  carriages,  which  kindled  very  easily  and  made  so  little  cmoke  in 
comparison  with  the  brambles  wliich  we  had  habitually  used,  that  we 
loaded  our  camels  with  the  wheels  and  planks,  in  order  to  prolong,  for  a 
few  Jays,  at  least,  the  pleasure  of  enjoying  a  good  fire. 

We  reached  the  hill  of  Sari-bulak  on  the  9th  of  November,  and  from 
the  summit  I  perceived,  fifty  miles  distant,  the  heights  of  Kuk-temak, 
whose  base  is  washed  by  the  waters  of  the  Aral.  I  spoke  to  our  Kir- 
ghizes of  the  traces  of  water  upon  the  Sari-bulak,  and  they  assured  me 
that  their  fathers  had  seen  the  Aral  Sea  extend  to  the  foot  of  this  hill, 
now  forty  miles  distant.  So  large  a  number  of  Kirghizes  have  affirmed 
the  same  thing  that  I  consider  it  as  certain,  which  proves  how  consider- 
able and  rapid  is  the  diminution  of  tho  Aral  Sea. 

Before  arriving  at  the  Sea  of  Aral  we  entered  the  desert  of  Karo- 
kum,  or  Black  Sand.  All  these  sandy  deserts  present  nearly  the  same 
aspect.  The  Kara-kum  is  abundantly  supplied  with  fresh  water,  which 
may  bo  found  nearly  always  at  the  depth  of  one  or  two  fathoms.  When 
we  came  to  Camechlu-bash,  a  bay  adjoining  the  Sir,  I  set  out  with  a 
company  of  friends  and  a  few  Cossacks  to  visit  the  mouth  of  the  Sir. 
The  river  expands  as  it  approaches  the  Aral,  and  the  whole  delta  thus 
formed  is  covered  with  reeds :  the  water  is  not  more  than  four  feet  deep, 
while  the  river  itself  is  navigable  above,  as  for  as  Kokand,  and  is  several 
fathoms  deep  throughout  all  this  extent.  In  tho  neighborhood  of  the  Sir 
are  several  canals  from  five  to  six  feet  deep,  made  at  an  epoch  anterior 
to  the  dominion  of  the  Kirghizes,  whom  I  believe  incapable  of  so  labor- 
ious an  undertaking.  Here  we  saw  very  brge  fields  in  which  the  Kir- 
ghizes cultivate  wheat  and  barley;  they  have  also  some  fields  of  melons. 
They  preserve  their  crops  in  little  holes  in  the  ground.  The  provision 
for  the  few  horses  and  animals  which  they  possess  consists  of  the  leaves 
of  young  reeds,  the  growth  of  which  is  accelerated  by  burning  the 
plants  the  preceding  year. 

The  embassy  arrived  on  the  19th  of  November,  nfler  forty-one  days' 
travel,  at  the  bonks  of  the  Sir-deria,  opposite  the  heights  of  Kara-tcpeh. 
The  sands  of  the  Kara-kum,  which  reach  almost  to  the  Sir,  and  extend 
a  hundred  miles  along  its  course,  were  now  again  visible.  Near  Sir- 
deria,  tlie  ordinary  retreat  of  the  poor,  misery  has  multiplied  the  num- 
ber of  robbers,  and  in  traversing  these  regions  we  observed  on  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hills  some  natives  who  seemed  watching  an  occasion  to  seize 
upon  a  straggler  or  horse.  The  countries  watered  by  the  Sir  form  tho 
paradise  of  the  steppe  of  the  Kirghizes,  who  are  proud  of  possessing  so 
large  a  river  in  their  territory.    The  object  of  their  most  ardent  desire 


ARA. 

Cul-kuduk — the 
zouk.  This  des- 
j  wind  into  steep 
more  difficnlt  to 
horses  had  been 
ve  burned  ten  of 
)  little  emoke  in 
lly  used,  that  we 
to  prolong,  for  a 

ircmber,  and  from 
,8  of  Kuk-temak, 
poke  to  our  Kir- 
thoy  assured  me 
s  foot  of  this  hill, 
izcB  have  affirmed 
res  how  considcr- 

e  desert  of  Kara- 
it  nearly  the  same 
fresh  water,  which 
o  fathoms.  When 
r,  I  set  out  with  a 
mouth  of  the  Sir. 
whole  delta  thus 
han  four  feet  deep, 
and,  and  is  several 
iborhoodoftheSir 
b  an  epoch  anterior 
sapable  of  so  labor- 
in  which  the  Kir- 
ne  fields  of  melons, 
nd.    The  provision 
nsists  of  the  leaves 
id  by  burning  the 

,ftcr  forty-one  days» 
3cht8  of  Kara-tepeh. 
he  Sir,  and  extend 

visible.  Near  Sir- 
multiplied  the  num- 
>served  on  the  sum- 
m  occasion  to  seize 
»y  the  Sir  form  the 
lud  of  possessing  so 

most  ardent  desire 


i 


\nM§ 


^vS>»  ■ 


.'     ,** 


n 

UD 

» 


N 

m 

s 

Cd 


0 


\lffl" 


\ 


SONGS    OF    THE    KIRGHIZES. 


829 


ia  to  winter  with  their  herds  upon  its  borders,  where  the  cold  is  less 
severe  than  on  the  banks  of  the  lick,  the  Or,  the  Irghiz,  or  upon  the 
mountains  of  the  Mughojar  and  Durgatch,  or  among  the  sands  of  the 
Kara-kum.  Along  the  Sir  the  frosts  are  never  so  severe  as  to  destroy 
the  animals.  Or  incommode  the  people  in  their  huts  of  felt ;  but  for  six 
years  past  the  rich  Kirghizes  have  been  deprived  of  the  pleasure  of 
passing  the  winter  upon  these  fortunate  shores,  for  their  enemies,  the 
Khivans,  come  thither  to  plunder  them  whenever  they  find  an  oppor- 
tunity. 

The  Kirghizes  delight  to  winter  among  the  reeds  which  arc  thick 
enough  to  form  a  shelter  against  the  storms.  These  wandering  people 
appear  to  have  a  tendency  to  melancholy,  and  the  murmur  of  the  rapid 
waves  of  the  Sir  charms  their  frequent  leisure  hours.  Nothing,  indeed, 
contributes  more  to  reverie  than  the  sound  of  the  waters  of  a  river  which 
flows,  like  time,  with  a  monotonous  rapidity.  The  Kirghizes  often  pass 
half  the  night  seated  upon  a  stone  looking  at  the  moon,  and  improvising 
sad  words,  set  to  airs  as  sad.  They  also  have  historical  songs  which  re- 
count the  high  deeds  of  their  heroes;  but  this  sort  of  poem  is  sung  only 
by  professional  minstrels.  I  very  much  regret  not  having  heard  any.  I 
often  said  to  the  Khirgizes  that  I  listened  to  their  songs  with  pleasure ; 
their  impromptus  were  merely  compliments,  and  were  scarcely  worth  re- 
taining, yet  there  remain  a  few  fragments  of  songs  in  my  memory.  A 
Kirghiz  bey,  a  rich  and  intelligent  man,  the  head  of  a  numerous  family, 
sang  to  me  these  improvised  words :  "  You  who  wish  that  I  should  sing 
to  you  a  song,  I  will  tell  you  that  a  bey,  poor,  but  good,  is  better  than 
a  despised  khan."  These  words  perfectly  expressed  his  thought,  for  he 
was  the  declared  enemy  of  the  Khan  of  the  Kirghizes.  The  same  bey, 
passing  by  us  one  day  while  we  breakfasted,  hummed  these  words :  "  See 
these  Russians  who  breakfast  in  eating  the  flesh  of  swine,  and  drinking 
brandy.    Ah  I  what  men !" 

A  young  Kirghiz  one  day  chanted  the  following  song,  composed  by 
a  young  girl:  "Seest  thou  this  snow?  Ah,  well!  my  body  is  more 
white.  Seest  thou  flowing  upon  this  snow  the  blood  of  this  slaughtered 
sheep?  Ah,  well !  my  cheeks  are  more  red.  Pass  this  mountain,  thou 
wilt  there  behold  the  trunk  of  a  burned  tree.  Ah,  well  I  my  tresses  are 
more  dark.  With  the  sultan  there  are  scribes  who  write  much.  Ah, 
well !  my  eyebrows  are  darker  than  their  ink,"  Another  Kirghiz  sang 
to  me :  "  Behold  this  village  of  tents  which  belongs  to  a  rich  man ;  he 
has  but  one  daughter,  who  remains  at  home  by  day  ;  at  night  she  walks 
forth,  and  has  only  the  moon  for  her  companion." 

This  is  a  sample  of  the  ideas  of  the  Kirghizes,  the  children  of  the  des- 
ert, who,  except  as  regards  religion,  have  remained  independent  of  all 
the  influences  of  foreign  civilization.  After  having  seen  them,  we  have  a 
correct  picture  of  a  wandering  people,  cherishing  their  liberty,  and  de- 
spising all  which  tends  to  impose  upon  them  any  restraint.  Unsubdued, 
warlike,  ferocious,  the  Kirghiz,  alone,  and  on  horseback,  courses  through 


f 


t' 


!•< 


880 


MEYENDORPP'S   JOURNEY    TO   BOKHARA. 


the  desert,  and  traverses  hundreds  of  miles  with  astonishing  rapidity,  in 
order  to  visit  a  relative,  or  a  friend  belonging  to  a  strange  tribe.  On 
the  M'ay  he  stops  at  every  village ;  he  there  tells  the  news,  and,  always 
sure  of  being  well  received,  even  when  not  known,  he  partakes  the  food 
of  his  host.  This  consists  usually  of  cheese,  curdled  goat's  milk,  ni'it, 
and,  when  it  is  to  be  had,  koumiss^  a  drink  extracted  from  the  milk  of 
mares,  much  esteemed  in  the  desert.  He  never  forgets  the  aspect  of  the 
country  through  which  he  has  passed,  and  returns  home  after  some  days' 
absence,  rich  in  new  information,  to  repose  among  his  wives  and  children. 
His  wives  are  his  only  servants ;  they  cook  his  food,  make  his  clothes, 
and  saddle  his  horse,  while  ho  with  perfect  coolness  limits  his  labors  to 
the  quiet  cr  :e  of  his  flocks.  I  have  seen  the  brother  of  a  sultan,  very 
much  esteemed  among  the  Kirghizes,  tending  his  sheep,  on  horseback, 
dressed  in  a  coat  of  red  cloth,  and  traveling  thus  for  a  fortnight  without 
thinking  his  dignity  lowered  thereby. 

The  Kirghizes  are  governed  by  elders,  heads  of  families,  beys,  beha- 
dirs,  sultans,  and  khans.  The  title  of  bey  is  properly  hereditary,  but  if 
the  possessor  can  not  sustain  it  by  his  character  and  merits,  he  soon  loses 
it ;  while  he  who  is  able  to  make  himself  esteemed  obtains  it,  either  from 
the  custom  which  insensibly  arises,  of  calling  him  sultan,  or  because  an 
assembly  meets  expressly  for  the  purpose  of  conferring  upon  him  this 
honorable  title.  The  Kirghizes  are  very  irascible ;  the  slightest  cause, 
often  merely  a  disappointed  hope,  is  sufficient  to  spur  them  on  to  the 
most  cruel  revenge.  A  few  ^ears  ago  these  people,  having  been  several 
times  disturbed  by  the  Khivans,  solicited  the  aid  of  the  Bokharians, 
whose  caravans  had  also  been  plundered  by  these  robbers.  The  Kirghizes 
believed  that  the  government  of  Bokhara  could  not  refuse  their  as- 
rastance ;  disappointed  in  their  hope,  they  became  furious,  and  resolved 
to  pillage  the  Bokharian  caravans  on  the  first  opportunity.  One  of  their 
chiefs  cut  off  the  tail  of  his  horse,  carried  it  to  Bokhara,  to  the  chief 
vizier,  and  said  to  him :  "As  this  tail  has  been  separated  from  this  horse, 
so  do  I  separate  myself  from  you ;  henceforth  I  will  be  your  implacable 
enemy."  He  left  immediately  with  two  or  three  friends,  and  carried  off 
eight  camels  and  two  men.  Such  were  the  first  hostilities  of  a  war  which 
he  alone  had  declared  against  all  Bokharia.  The  ferocity  and  violence 
of  this  man  may  give  an  idea  of  the  untamed  character  of  these  people. 
I  will  conclude  this  digression  upon  the  Kirghizes,  by  remarking  that 
they  never  give  themselves  this  name ;  they  designate  themselves  by 
that  of  Kasaky  which  signifies  '  man  on  horseback,'  according  to  some, 
and  '  warrior,'  according  to  others.  They  say  that  the  Bashkirs  call  them 
Kirghizes,  but  they  do  not  know  whence  the  name  is  derived,  and  they 
give  it  only  to  the  wandering  tribes  of  tb  3  great  horde.  The  latter  are 
in  great  fear  of  the  Chinese,  whose  severe,  or  rather  cruel  policy,  is  never- 
theless justified  by  necessity.  A  caravan  having  been  pillaged  not  far 
from  the  frontiers  of  Tsungari,  the  Chinese,  guarded  by  the  Manchoo 
outposts,  made  reprisals,  and  thousands  of  Kirghizes,  guilty  or  not,  paid 


liing  rapidity,  in     j 
inge  tribe.    On     1 
)W8,  and,  always     \ 
artakes  the  food     j 
iat'8  milk,  m*  at,     ] 
om  the  milk  of 
the  aspect  of  the 
after  some  days' 
ves  and  children, 
lake  his  clothes, 
lits  his  labors  to 
of  a  sultan,  very 
jp,  on  horseback, 
fortnight  without 

nilies,  beys,  beha- 
hereditary,  but  if 
}rits,he  soon  loses 
uns  it,  either  from 
tan,  or  because  an 
ig  upon  him  this 
he  sUghtest  cause, 
ur  them  on  to  the     | 
aving  been  several     j 
>f  the  Bokharians,     j 
Ts.    The  Kirghizes 
ot  refuse  their  as- 
rious,  and  resolved 
nity.    One  of  their 
khara,  to  the  chief 
ted  from  this  horse, 
be  your  implacable 
nds,  and  carried  oflF 
litiesofawarwhich 
jrocity  and  violence 
ter  of  these  people. 
,  by  remarking  that 
Tjate  themselves  by 
'  according  to  some, 
le  Bashkirs  call  them 
is  derived,  and  they 
rde.    The  latter  are 
iruel  policy,  is  never- 
een  pillaged  not  far 
led  by  the  Manchoo 
8,  guilty  or  not,  pwd 


A   WILD    BOAR    HUNT. 


881 


with  their  lives  for  this  aggression.  A  few  examples  of  this  sort  put  an 
end  to  the  incursions  of  the  Kirghizes  who  live  near  the  frontiers  of  the 
Chinese  Empire. 

At  the  tjme  of  our  journey  the  river  was  frozen,  and  we  crossed  it 
with  the  greatest  care ;  the  ice  was  so  brittle  that  it  cracked  upon  the 
passage  of  our  two  cannon.  A  camel  broke  through  by  its  weight,  and 
was  drawn  out  only  with  much  difficulty.  The  Kirghizes  burned  some 
reeds,  and  spreading  the  ashes  upon  the  ice,  finally  prevented  the  camels 
from  slipping.  After  much  exertion  we  crossed  the  Sir,  celebrated  in 
antiquity  imder  the  name  of  Jaxartes.  On  our  return,  the  crossing  was 
more  difficult  and  slow.  Two  boats  which  we  took  with  us  were  made 
into  a  raft,  upon  which  the  artillery  and  our  company  passed  from  one 
shore  to  the  other,  while  the  horses  and  camels  crossed  by  swimming. 
It  was  a  curious  spectacle  to  see  a  dozen  of  the  latter  animals  attached 
one  behind  another,  and  conducted  by  Kirghizes.  The  conductors, 
naked,  and  remarkable  for  their  athl  tic  forms,  sometimes  clung  closely 
to  the  camels,  and  sometimes  swimming  beside,  urged  them  on  by  shout- 
ing. Three  of  these  animals  being  drowned,  were  cast  upon  the  banks. 
The  natives  turned  them  toward  Mecca,  and  having  cut  their  throats, 
reciting  meanwhile  the  accustomed  prayer,  devoured  them  immediately. 

In  the  plain  bordering  on  the  Jan-deria  there  are  numerous  groves 
in  which  various  kinds  of  animals,  such  as  wolves,  wild  cats,  and  even 
tigers,  have  their  retreat.  In  hunting  the  tiger  a  score  of  men,  armed 
with  match-locks,  surround  the  thicket  in  which  he  is  concealed ;  they 
then  set  fire  to  It  on  the  windward  side,  when  the  heat  and  flames  drive 
the  animal  from  his  retreat  and  expose  him  to  the  balls  of  the  hunters. 
We  employed  this  method  in  hunting  the  wild  boar  near  the  shores  of 
the  Kouvan,  and  succeeded  in  killing  a  number  of  them.  This  hunt 
presented  a  singular  spectacle.  From  the  midst  of  a  plain  covered  with 
burning  reeds  arose  whirlwinds  of  smoke.  Across  the  flames  a  hundred 
Cossacks  were  seen,  galloping  with  us  to  the  right  and  left ;  our  horses 
carried  us  sometimes  in  advance,  sometimes  in  the  rear,  and  often  very 
near  the  furious  animals  which  were  bounding  through  the  marsh,  dis- 
appearing at  one  moment,  and  dashing  suddenly  into  sight  the  next. 
On  all  sides  were  heard  the  shots  of  pistols  and  guns :  here  lay  wounded 
horses,  there  the  furious  Cossacks  strove  to  pierce  the  wild  boars  with 
their  spears.  An  officer  of  the  Ural  Cossacks,  stung  by  hearing  another 
say  that  he  was  afraid,  dismounted  and  seated  himself  upon  an  enorm- 
ous wounded  boar,  which  he  seized  by  the  ears  as  it  ran ;  then,  to  finish 
the  exploit,  he  shot  it  through  the  head  with  a  pistol.  If  one  can  imag- 
ine all  these  various  objects  he  will  have  a  good  idea  of  our  wild  boar 
liimts  in  the  desert.  In  this  plain  we  perceived  some  traces  of  ancient 
canals,  which  prove  that  this  country  was  once  more  populous  than  it  is 
at  the  present  day. 

Leaving  the  Jan-deria  on  the  3d  of  December,  we  proceeded  by  the 
highway  toward  Bokhara ;  I  say  highway,  for  it  was  a  road  of  about 


882 


METENDORFP'S  JOURNEY  TO  BOKHARA. 


: 


three  fathoms  in  width  and  much  worn  by  frequent  travel.  It  is  the 
route  of  the  caravans  from  Bokhara  to  Orsk  and  Orcnbourg,  and  of  the 
Kirghizes  irom  the  western  part  of  the  steppe,  who  take  animals  to  the 
bazaars  of  the  former  place.  This  route  leads  across  the  desert  of 
Kizil-kum  (Red  Sand),  which  is  remarkable  for  its  sterility  ;  nor  water 
nor  springs  are  anywhere  to  be  seen.  It  is  said  that  formerly  there  were 
throe  wells  near  the  road  which  avc  followed,  and  that  they  were  filled 
up,  in  order  that  they  might  no  longer  bo  used  by  the  robbers  who 
usually  kept  themselves  concealed  among  the  neighboring  hills.  Those 
brigands  have  been  effectively  expelled  from  the  Kizil-kum,  but  now 
they  hide  in  the  gorges  of  the  Bukhan  Mountains,  and  when  they  have 
suflicient  force  make  a  descent  upon  the  travelers  and  pillage  them,  or 
even  kill  them  in  case  of  resistance.  In  approaching  this  region  we 
therefore  kept  strict  guard  and  sent  patrols  into  the  defiles  of  the 
Bukhan.  Happily  the  dangerous  passage  was  made  without  accident, 
but  ten  days  afterward  a  caravan  of  Bokharians  and  Kirghizes  was  pil- 
laged by  the  Khivans,  who  fell  upon  them  at  the  wells  of  Bukhan,  and 
pursued  the  fugitives  into  the  Kizil-kum,  where,  having  encountered  a 
troop  of  Kirghizes,  they  gave  battle  to  them.  On  our  return  we  found 
on  the  route  more  than  a  hundred  dead  bodies  which  were  the  food  of 
dogs  and  a  multitude  of  birds  of  prey.  Fragments  of  china  and  porce- 
lain ware,  broken  boxes  and  vases  of  bronze,  scattered  about  on  the 
sand,  showed  where  the  fugitives  had  been  overtaken  and  defeated. 

After  leaving  the  borders  of  the  Jan-deria  we  entered  a  vast  unin- 
habited region  which  continued  until  within  thirty  miles  of  Bokhara, 
and  which  extends  from  the  banks  of  the  Sir-deria,  opposite  Turkestan 
and  Tashkend,  to  the  borders  of  the  Amou-deria ;  this  space,  compre- 
hending from  eight  to  nine  degrees  cf  latitude,  separates  Bokharia  from 
the  steppe  of  the  Kirghizes,  and  the  Khanate  of  Kokand  from  that  of 
Khiva.  On  the  north  of  Bokharia  we  find  habitable  lands,  but  the  fear 
of  the  Khivans,  a  bold  and  cruel  race,  prevents  all  settlers  from  estab- 
lishing themselves  there,  whDe  at  the  same  time  Bokharia  itself  offers 
better  pastures.  Every  year  several  Khirgiz  families,  chiefly  of  tli? 
poorer  classes,  leave  their  native  soil  in  order  to  settle  in  the  deserts  of 
Bokharia,  where  the  undisturbed  quiet  and  the  milder  climate  promise 
them  a  happier  fate. 

Beyond  the  Jan-deria  we  traveled,  as  I  have  said,  upon  a  much  fre- 
quented route  ;  almost  every  day  we  met  Kirghiz  caravans  which  were 
returning  from  Bokhara,  and  which,  after  having  sold  their  sheep,  car- 
ried back  from  that  city  barley,  oatmeal,  tobacco,  cotton  and  linen 
clothing.  We  took  great  pleasure  in  talking  with  these  Bazartchi — men 
returning  from  market — in  asking  the  news  from  Bokhara,  and  when 
they  had  left  the  capital ;  we  felt  happy  in  the  prospect  of  soon  termin- 
ating a  journey  so  long  and  toilsome,  which  was  beginning  to  weary  us 
very  much.  Our  horses,  which  found  but  a  very  miserable  living  in  the 
Kizil-kum,  grew  thinner  every  day ;  the  Bashkir  horses  were  emaciated ; 


iKSbfcWi«^!i^^>?:^ 


'■■■•sfsmnfiiavsm 


'^^ip^t: 


^■^"'■■'-ri7'-~-vTiiiiTi  iitt-ys^-m 


lRA. 

•avcl.    It  is  the 
urg,  and  of  the 
;  animals  to  the 

tho  desert  of 
lity ;  nor  water 
lerly  there  were 
they  were  filled 
[le  robbers  who 
[ig  hills.  These 
il-kum,  but  now 
when  they  have 
pillage  them,  or 

this  region  we 
8  defiles  of  the 
nthout  accident, 
[irghizes  was  pil- 

of  Bukhan,  and 
g  encountered  a 
return  we  found 
irere  the  food  of 
china  and  porce- 
ed  about  on  the 
nd  defeated. 
;cred  a  vast  unin- 
lilea  of  Bokhara, 
posite  Turkestan 
lis  space,  compre- 
es  Bokharia  from 
Land  from  that  of 
ands,  but  the  fear 
sttlers  from  estab- 
haria  itself  oflfers 
es,  chiefly  of  tli? 

in  the  deserts  of 
r  climate  promise 

,  upon  a  much  fre- 
'avans  which  were 
d  their  sheep,  car- 
cotton  and  linen 
le  Bazartchi — men 
lokhara,  and  when 
!Ct  of  soon  termin- 
ming  to  weary  ua 
rable  living  in  the 
s  were  emaciated ; 


ENTRANCE  INTO  BOKHARIA. 


888 


they  were  no  longer  able  to  draw  the  six  chariots  which  remained  of 
the  twenty-five  with  which  wo  set  out  from  Orenbourg.  It  became 
necessary  to  replace  them  with  Cossack  horses  which  had  hitherto  car- 
ried the  packrsaddles.  All  our  people  were  extremely  weak,  especially 
the  infantry ;  in  a  word,  we  were  all  in  the  greatest  need  of  reaching 
the  end  of  our  journey.  We  took  ice  and  water  from  the  Jan-deria  in 
leather  sacks  and  casks ;  yet  it  was  very  difficult  to  carry  with  us  water 
enough  to  supply  so  many  men  and  horses  for  four  days  and  a  half. 

After  having  passed  the  Kizil-kum,  we  traversed,  for  thirty  miles,  a 
plain  covered  with  worm-wood,  bounded  on  the  right  by  the  mountains 
of  Bukhan.  The  Bokharians  who  accompanied  us,  fearing  a  surprise  on 
the  part  of  tho  Khivans,  persuaded  us  to  avoid  the  wells  of  Bukhan, 
which  were  very  dangerous.  At  Kapkantash  are  several  sulphur 
springs,  fetid  and  very  salt.  Our  horses  scarcely  tasted  the  water ;  but 
on  our  return  in  March,  ahorse  drank  five  buckets  of  this  tainted  water. 
As  the  weather  was  by  this  time  very  warm,  every  body  was  thirsty,  and 
we  had  much  difficulty  in  restraining  our  soldiers  a  few  minutes  before 
permitting  them  to  drink  this  wretched  water,  which  was,  however,  very 
cool.  Fifteen  miles  fi-om  Kapkantash  we  entered  the  sands  of  Batkak- 
kum,  which  extended  for  twenty  miles ;  after  leaving  these  we  again 
entered  a  mountainous  country,  called  Susiz-kara,  or  black  without 
water,  and  at  length  arrived  at  Kara-aghatch.  Before  reaching  this 
place,  four  Bokharian  custom-house  officers  came  to  meet  the  embassy, 
and  after  saluting  us  with  the  usual  formula  of  Khosh  amedid  (be  wel- 
come !),  informed  us  that  the  khan,  their  sovereign,  had  sent  provisions 
for  us,  to  Aghatma,  twenty-eight  miles  from  Kara-aghatch.  M.  de  Ne- 
gri politely  expressed  to  them  our  gratitude,  and  we  proceeded  with 
them  to  the  former  place. 

As  we  drew  near  Aghatma  a  Bokharian  youz-bashi,  or  centurion, 
followed  by  a  score  of  horsemen,  came  to  announce  to  the  Charge  d'Aft 
faires  that  the  khan  had  sent  him  to  receive  the  embassy  and  supply  it 
with  what  provisions  were  needed ;  then  several  horsemen  approached 
M.  de  Negri,  took  his  hand  in  the  oriental  manner,  and  all  repeated 
"  Khosh  amedid;'^  after  which  the  little  party  set  off  in  a  gallop.  The 
greater  part  of  the  horses  were  very  beautiful,  large,  light,  and  full  of 
fire,  and  they  vanished  like  lightning.  At  Aghatma  we  found  fresh 
white  bread,  delicious  grapes,  water-melons,  and  pomegranates.  One 
may  judge  of  the  pleasure  which  each  of  us  experienced  in  eating  this 
bread  and  fruit,  by  remembering  that  for  seventy  days  we  had  lived  on 
biscuit  alone,  which  became  harder  every  day.  Our  horses  had  now 
nourishing  hay  and  jugara,  a  sort  of  white  grain  of  the  size  and  shape 
of  lentils,  which  is  given  to  beasts  instead  of  bariey. 

About  twelve  miles  from  Odun-kuduk,  we  passed  for  a  short  distance 
through  a  range  of  sandy  hills,  among  which  we  saw  the  remains  of 
earthen  walls  and  buildings.  After  havmg  crossed  these  mounds,  we 
entered,  to  our  great  surprise,  a  country  entirely  different ;  we  might 


884 


MBTBNDORFF'S   JOURNEY    TO    BOKHARA. 


have  supposed  ourselves  a  thousand  leagues  distant  from  the  monoton- 
ous  regions  which  we  had  been  traversing  for  the  last  seventy  days. 
The  desert  ends  at  these  sandy  hillocks,  beyond  which  we  were  surround- 
ed by  fields  and  water-courses  and  avenues  of  trees.  On  all  sides  were 
houses,  villages,  gardens,  vineyards,  mosques,  and  minarets ;  in  a  word, 
one  might  believe  himself  transported  into  an  enchanted  land.  We  found 
ourselves  in  a  country  scarcely  kno\vn  to  Europeans ;  every  thing  excited 
our  curiosity.  Let  one  imagine  the  interest  with  which  we  contem- 
plated the  thousands  of  Orientals,  clothed  in  blue  garments  and  white 
turbans,  running  to  meet  us,  some  on  foot,  others  riding  on  horses  or 
aeses,  but  all  pressing  around  us  and  saluting  us  in  their  manner.  Many 
testified  their  joy  by  addressing  friendly  words  to  us  in  Russian ;  their 
dgns  of  astonishment,  their  cries,  and  finally  the  tumultuous  movement 
which  animated  all  the  crowd,  gave  to  our  entrance  into  Bokharia  the 
aspect  of  a  popular  festival,  the  joy  of  which  we  should  have  shared,  if 
the  presence  of  the  police,  whose  voices  resounded  above  all  this  noise, 
and  who  with  large  clubs  struck  right  and  left  indiscriminately  to  make 
way  for  us,  had  not  reminded  us  that  our  own  arrival  had  caused  all 
this  confusion,  and  that  the  eagerness  to  see  so  many  Russians  carried 
the  people  beyond  the  fear  of  the  blows. 

We  were  touched  with  sadness  to  see  in  the  midst  of  this  Asiatic 
populace  a  few  Russian  soldiers  reduced  to  the  condition  of  slaves.  The 
greater  number  were  aged  and  infirm,  and  at  the  sight  of  their  fellow- 
countrymen  thev  could  not  restrain  their  tears ;  they  stammered  a  few 
words  in  their  maternal  language  ;  they  attempted  to  precipitate  them- 
selves into  our  midst,  so  lively  an  emotion  did  the  pleasure  of  seemg  our 
soldiers  agmn  create  in  them.  These  touching  scenes,  which  rent  the 
soul,  can  not  be  described. 

At  Khatun-kuduk  we  had  learned  that  o;-t  of  the  principal  officers 
of  the  Bokharian  government  was  awaiting  us  :■'  the  next  village.  We 
had  passed  through  a  short  stretch  of  cultivated  country,  when  a  penja- 
hashi  (captiun  of  five  hundred  men)  came  to  meet  us  with  two  hundred 
cavalry.  He  conducted  us  through  the  crowd,  and  our  infantry  marched, 
beating  the  drums,  toward  the  tent  of  the  cusMeghi.  At  the  dlotance 
of  fifty  yards  from  the  tent  we  dismounted  in  order  to  advance  between 
two  files  of  foot-soldiers  seated  upon  the  ground,  who  rose  when  the 
Charge  d'Affaires  passed.  Many  tents  of  different  colors  were  to  be 
a  great  many  horses  richly  caparisoned  were  attached  by  the 


seen; 


head  and  hind  feet  to  pickets.    Numerous  slaves  and  officers  surrounded 
the  tents ;  in  a  word,  every  thing  around  us  added  to  the  solemnity  of 

The  eush-beghi,  named  Hakim-bey,  was  seated  in  his  tent  with  four 
Bokharian  noblemen;  when  M.  de  Negri  had  taken  the  place  reserved 
for  him,  this  officer,  addressing  the  persons  attached  to  the  embassy, 
said  •  "  Be  seated.  You  are  strangers ;  1  am  much  pleased  to  see  you." 
M  de  Negri  having  spoken  afterward  of  the  ceremonial  to  be  observed 


mm 


ABA. 

im  the  monoton- 
8t  seventy  days, 
e  were  surround- 
)n  all  sides  were 
rets ;  in  a  word, 
land.  "We  found 
ery  thing  excited 
lich  we  contem- 
ments  and  white 
ing  on  horses  or 

manner.  Many 
in  Russian ;  their 
Ituous  movement 
nto  Bokharia  the 
a  have  shared,  if 
ovc  all  this  noise, 
minately  to  make 
■al  had  caused  all 

Russians  carried 

[st  of  this  Asiatic 
jn  of  slaves.  The 
lit  of  their  fellow- 
stammered  a  few 
i  precipitate  them- 
Lsure  of  seeing  our 
!8,  which  rent  the 

e  principal  officers 
next  village.  We 
try,  when  a  penja- 
with  two  hundred 
infantry  marched, 
At  the  diDtariCb 
)  advance  between 
rho  rose  when  the 
colors  were  to  be 
_  attached  by  the 
jfficers  surrounded 
0  the  solemnity  of 

his  tent  with  four 
the  place  reserved 
to  the  embassy, 
leased  to  see  you." 
nial  to  be  observed 


RECEPTION    IN    BOKHARA. 


885 


when  he  should  be  presented  to  the  khan,  did  not  entirely  agree  on  this 
point  with  the  cush-beghi.  The  audience  had  commenced  under  favora- 
ble auspices,  but  before  it  was  terminated  the  Bokharian  character  dis- 
closed itself.  The  cusMeghi  had  the  indiscretion  to  ask  M.  de  Negri 
to  make  the* khan  a  present  of  the  two  cannon  which  we  had  with  us. 
When  he  saw  that  he  should  not  be  able  to  obtain  them,  he  made  no 
scruple  of  demanding  for  the  khan  the  carriage  of  M.  de  Negri,  All 
this  time  he  was  not  ignorant  that  we  had  many  camels  loaded  with 
presents  for  the  Court  of  Bokhara.  This  officer  was  about  fifty  years  of 
age ;  his  long  brown  beard  was  beginning  to  whiten.  He  was  tall,  his 
countenance  was  agreeable  and  full  of  goodness ;  he  expressed  himself 
in  Persian  with  great  faciUty.  He  wore  a  turban  formed  of  a  white 
cashmere  shawl,  and  a  robe  of  sable  ornamented  with  striped  cashmere. 

We  passed  the  night  of  the  17th  of  December  near  Wafkend,  a  small 
city,  after  having  passed  through  a  populous  and  well-cultivated  country. 
On  the  18th  we  traveled  through  an  equally  fine  district  in  order  to 
reach  Bazartchi,  a  large  village  situated  a  mile  and  a  half  irom  Bokhara. 
Since  our  interview  with  the  cush-beghi  we  had  traveled  thirty  miles ; 
during  these  two  days  we  were  incessantly  surrounded  by  a  considerable 
crowd ;  the  police  scattered  them  with  the  strokes  of  their  clubs ;  the 
curious  suffered  themselves  to  be  beaten,  fled,  and  returned.  Our  sol- 
diers advanced  in  the  greatest  order ;  they  were  in  complete  uniform ; 
the  sound  of  the  drum,  which  was  heard  from  time  to  time,  occasioned 
cries  of  surprise  from  the  multitude.  We  advanced  thus  in  the  midst 
of  the  tumult  and  the  public  demonstrations  of  joy  excited  by  our 
arrival. 

After  thirty-six  hours  of  discussion  on  the  ceremonial  to  be  observed, 
we  finally  came  to  an  agreement ;  the  khan  consented  that  M.  de  N6gri 
should  sit  in  his  presence.  At  noon,  on  the  20th  of  December,  we  made 
our  solemn  entry  into  Bokhara,  preceded  by  a  detachment  of  Cossacks, 
and  by  tL  '  presents,  which  consisted  of  furs,  porcelain,  crystals,  watches, 
and  fire-arms.  Other  Cossacks  and  a  party  of  infantry  closed  the  pro- 
cession. An  Ouzbek  nobleman,  a  very  important  personage,  who  spoke 
Persian  perfectly,  conducted  the  embassy  to  the  palace.  Advancing 
slowly  with  this  procession,  we  passed  under  a  largo  gate,  and  after  hav- 
ing marched  through  a  narrow,  winding  street,  bordered  by  miserable 
clay  houses  with  flat  roofe,  we  finally  arrived  at  a  large  square  surround- 
ed by  mosques  and  colleges  or  medresseSy  where  we  saw  the  gates  of  the 
palace. 

After  having  alighted,  we  ascended  into  a  vaulted  corridor,  built  of 
bricks.  On  each  side  was  a  file  of  soldiers  to  the  number  of  nearly  four 
hundred,  armed  with  muskets  of  different  dimensions.  Thence  we  en- 
tered a  small  court,  and  afterward  a  passage,  where  there  were  a  dozen 
unmounted  cannon,  and  then  a  square  court  surrounded  by  walls,  along 
which  were  seated  three  or  four  hundred  Bokharians,  wearing  white  tur- 
bans and  vestments  of  gold  brocade ;  then,  turning  to  the  right,  we 


k 


836 


MEYENDOaFF'S  JOURNEY  TO  BOKHARA, 


passed  into  an  antechamber,  and  finally  into  the  hall  of  reception,  where 
the  khan  was  seated  upon  cushions  covered  with  a  carpet  of  red  cloth 
lichly  embroidered  with  gold.  On  the  floor  was  a  Persian  carpet  of  in- 
ferior quality ;  the  walls  were  plastered,  and  the  ceiling  was  covered 
with  painted  boards.  This  hall  was  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram.  The 
khan  sat  near  the  wall  opposite  the  entrance ;  on  his  left  were  his  two 
suns,  of  whom  the  elder  was  probably  fifteen  years  old,  and  on  his  right 
the  cuah-beghi.  On  each  side  of  the  door  were  five  noblemen.  Two 
chamberlains  supported  M.  de  Negri,  who  advanced  within  ten  paces  of 
the  khan,  addressed  him  in  Persian,  gave  his  credentials  to  the  cuuh- 
beyhi,  and  took  his  scat.  The  persona  attached  to  the  embassy  remained 
standing  against  the  wall  on  each  side  of  the  door.  The  cfush-beghi  at 
once  presented  the  emperor's  letter  to  the  khan,  who  read  it  aloud ;  he 
then  begged  M  do  Negri  to  allow  a  iaw  soldiers  to  enter  the  antecham- 
ber, where  they  were  ordered  to  lay  down  their  arms.  The  khan,  hav- 
ing seen  them,  began  to  laugh  like  a  child.  lie  was  about  forty-fivo 
yciu's  of  age,  not  very  intellectual  in  appearance ;  ho  had  a  beautiful 
beard,  black  eyes,  an  olive  complexion,  and  appeared  to  bo  exhausted  by 
the  pleasures  of  the  harem.  He  wore  a  vestment  of  black  velvet,  orna- 
mented with  precious  stones,  and  a  turban  of  muslin,  surmounted  by  a 
heron's  plume.  A  master  of  ceremonies  held  a  kind  of  halberd,  termi- 
nated above  by  a  silver  hatchet.  The  presents  were  carried  to  another 
chamber,  in  the  presence  of  the  khan.  The  audience  lasted  about  twenty 
minutes ;  when  it  was  ended,  we  rejoined  our  escort,  which  soon  after- 
ward returned  to  Bazartchi,  where  it  bivouacked  for  the  rest  of  the  win- 
ter. M.  de  Negri  and  the  persons  attached  to  the  embassy  were  lodged 
at  Bokhara,  in  a  large  house  belonging  to  tho  cuah-beghi. 

From  what  information  I  could  gather,  the  Bokharians  give  to  Chi- 
nese Turkestan  the  name  of  Alti-Shohar,  or  the  country  of  the  six  cities. 
These  are  Cashghar,  Yarkend,  Ehoten,  Aksou,  and  the  two  cities  of 
Ilch.  Cashghar  is  a  large  city,  guarded  by  a  Chinese  garrison,  and  ia 
very  difficult  of  access.  It  is  situated  on  the  Cashghar,  a  branch  of  the 
Ki^-soa  (red  water),  which  flows  between  Cashghar  and  Yarkend.  In 
going  from  Cashghar  to  Cashmere,  one  passes  Yarkend,  where  the  Tartar 
language  is  still  spoken  ;  then  by  the  cities  of  Great  and  Little  Thibet. 
The  country  being  mountainous,  the  caravans  proceed  only  by  short 
stages,  and  as  it  is.  impossible  to  employ  camels,  the  journey  is  made  al- 
together on  horseback.  Yarkend  is  distant  four  days'  journey  from 
Cashghar,  and  Great  Thibet  is  thirty-five  or  forty  days.  Cashmere  is 
twenty-two  days  from  the  latter  city,  and  midway  one  passes  Little 
Thibet.  The  river  which  bathes  the  walls  of  the  latter,  flows  to  the  north 
of  Cashmere,  or  rather,  empties  into  the  Cashmere  River. 

It  is  probable  that  the  cities  named  Thibet  are  the  same  that  were 
known  by  the  name  of  Ladak  and  Draouse,  or  Dervazeh,  yet  it  is  remark- 
able that  no  Bokharian  is  acqufunted  with  these  names,  while  different  mcr- 
obauts  with  whom  I  have  spoken,  called  them  Great  and  Little  Thibet.  Tho 


mm 


lRA. 

sccption,  where 
ct  of  red  cloth 
in  carpet  of  in- 
ig  was  covered 
llelogram.   Tho 
[I  were  his  two 
uid  on  his  right 
obleraen.    Two 
hin  ten  paces  of 
als  to  the  cuehr 
abassy  remwned 
ho  eush-heghi  at 
jad  it  aloud ;  he 
r  the  antecham- 
The  khan,  hav- 
about  forty-fivo 
had  a  beautiful 
be  exhausted  by 
lack  velvet,  oma- 
Burmounted  by  a 
»f  halberd,  termi- 
arried  to  another 
ted  about  twenty 
which  soon  after^ 
le  rest  of  the  win- 
)a88y  were  lodged 

nans  give  to  CM- 
Y  of  the  six  cities, 
ho  two  cities  of 
e  garrison,  and  is 
r,  a  branch  of  the 
nd  Yarkend.    In 
where  the  Tartar 
ad  Little  Thibet, 
sed  only  by  short 
umey  is  made  al- 
ys'  journey  from 
lys.    Cashmere  is 
one  passes  Little 
flows  to  the  north 

■er. 

le  same  that  were 
1,  yet  it  is  remark- 
hile  different  mcr- 
ittle  Thibet.  Tho 


EOUTB    TUROUOII    CENTRAL    ASIA. 


887 


Russian  merchants  who  have  gone  from  Semipalatinsk  to  Cashmere,  give 
them  tho  same  name.  Between  Cashghar  and  Cashmere,  there  are  no 
other  cities  than  those  I  have  mentioned ;  near  them  there  are  a  few  vil- 
lages Bcatterod  upon  the  declivities  of  the  mountains.  Great  and  Little 
Thibet  are  surrounded  with  gardens ;  I  am  told  that  the  houses  arc  of 
wood,  as  in  Russia,  and  have  very  steep  roofi.  The  inhabitants  arc  be- 
lievers in  the  Lama,  and  worship  idols.* 

*  Tlio  manuscript  of  this  work  had  beon  completed  a  \ong  tirao,  when  I  found,  at  St 
Petersburg,  in  June,  1823,  tho  account  of  a  Journey  to  India,  by  Raphael  Danibo)^,  a 
Qeorgian  gentleman,  dedicated  to  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  Alexander,  translated  from 
Georgian  into  Russian,  and  printed  in  1816.  This  work  contains  nothing  of  interest  until 
tho  author's  arrival  in  Cashmere ;  but  the  account  of  his  Jour-ey  from  that  city  to  Semi- 
palatinsk, in  Siberia,  passing  through  Cashghar,  surprised  mo  the  more  agreeably  that  tho 
information  it  contains  very  nearly  agrees  with  that  which  I  had  obtained.  Tho  follow- 
ing is  an  extract  of  tliis  account : 

"  From  Cashmere  I  proceeded  to  Thibet,  where  I  arrived  after  having  traveled  about 
a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  a  march  of  twenty  days.  The  city  is  built  on  hills,  and  sur- 
rounded with  stony  mountains,  upon  which  nothing  grows  but  a  little  oats.  The  inhabi- 
tanta  mix  the  oatmeal  with  milk,  and  cook  it  with  the  addition  of  butter.  So  poor  are 
thoy  that  this  food  forms  theironly  nourishment.  I  observed  a  custom  here  which  is  very 
discreditablo  and  contrary  to  good  sense :  if  there  are  several  brothers  in  a  house,  a  single 
woman  will  bo  the  wife  of  them  all ;  if  a  boy  is  bom,  he  takes  the  name  of  tho  eldest.  A 
large  quantity  of  tea  is  consumed  in  this  place ;  the  wool  for  the  shawls  is  brought  from 
Lassa.  All  the  merchandise  is  transported  on  the  back  of  sheep,  which  are  loaded  with 
as  mucli  a.s  thoy  can  carry ;  from  this  placo  to  Cashmere  the  transportation  is  made  with 
horses.  These  people  bring  from  Lassa  a  largo  quantity  of  goat's  wool,  which  is  forwarded 
to  Cashmere.    It  required  three  months  to  go  from  Thibet  to  Lassa. 

"  I  stopped  forty  days  to  make  an  excursion  fVom  Thibet  to  Yarkend.  The  Jourcey 
was  very  tedious;  the  sterility  of  the  soil,  the  great  depth  of  the  precipices,  the  excessive 
height  of  the  mountains,  among  which  glaciers  were  seon,  occasioned  a  sense  of  sadness 
which  was  augmented  by  the  continual  solitude  of  these  uninhabited  places.  At  length 
we  perceived  Yarkend ;  this  city,  surrounded  by  thick  woods,  presents  a  very  pleasant 
aspect 

"  The  Chinese  garrison  consists  of  more  than  two  thousand  men,  whoso  chief  is  termed 
Amban ;  beside  these  there  are  three  thousand  Chinese  in  Yarkend,  engaged  in  com- 
merce. The  climate  of  this  city  is  salubrious,  but  tho  water  is  bad.  There  are  no  fine 
edillces  to  be  seen ;  the  inhabitants  e^joy  a  degree  of  competency.  Although  I  have  said 
that  the  climate  is  healthy,  I  must  except  the  autumn ;  in  no  place  have  I  ever  found  it 
worse.  During  the  whole  season  the  sky  was  covered  with  clouds.  The  great  humidity 
of  the  atmosphere  often  produces  a  kind  of  red  insect  called  harhites,  whose  sting  is  almost 
always  fatal.  A  singular  dust,  from  some  unknown  source,  falls  like  rain,  and  renders 
this  season  very  disagreeable.  Where  this  dust  falls,  instead  of  rain,  tho  people  expect  a 
good  harvest,  while  they  look  for  a  bad  one  if  they  have  only  ordinary  rain.  This  dust  is 
so  thick  that  the  sun  can  not  penetrate  it ;  it  sometimes  continues  thus  for  seven  or  eight 
days,  and  is  so  fine  that  it  enters  the  smallest  crevices. 

"  Beside  Yarkend,  the  Chinese  are  masters  of  Khoten,  Cashghar,  Aksou,  Duroban, 
and  Ileh.  They  are  very  numerous  in  Ileh,  or  Kulja;  there  are  supposed  to  bemorothan 
ten  thousand  of  them.  They  are  very  proud  and  very  indolent,  and  spend  their  time  in 
smoking  tobacco.  No  inhabitant  is  permitted  to  leave  the  city  without  a  passport;  it  is 
difficult  to  escape  this  regulation,  for  the  surveillance  of  the  authorities  is  very  active. 
This  is  one  of  tho  means  which  the  Chinese  have  adopted  to  prevent  disorders  of  all  kinds. 

"Thirteen  days  after  leaving  Yarkend,  I  amved  at  Aksou.    This  city,  which  is  not 

22 


888 


MEYENDORFF'S  JOURNEY  TO  BOKHARA. 


In  the  mountainous  country  cast  of  Bokharia  an«l  north  of  Ilissar  arc 
the  (Jhaltchas,  a  poor  and  independent  people.  They  arc  Sunnite  Mo- 
hanuuedans;  some  Russian  travelers  have  called  them  Oriental  Persians; 
tlieir  complexion  is  very  tawny,  and  even  more  brown  than  that  of  the 
IJokharian  Arabs.  They  live  in  miserable  cabins,  built  in  the  low  lands 
between  the  mountains ;  are  all  cultivators  of  the  soil,  and  have  some 
cattle  and  a  very  few  horses.  Going  further  cast  wc  enter  a  country 
which  becomes  more  and  more  mountainous  and  is  very  little  known. 
There  is  said  to  bo  a  people  hero  called  Katir  or  infidel,  who  arc  repre- 
sented as  very  ferocious.  The  formidable  Kafirs  inhabit  the  city  of 
Kalel-khum,  also  called  Derwazeh,  situated  upon  a  river  of  the  same 

name. 

(iold  is  found  in  the  waters  of  the  Derwazeh  ;  these  riches  excite  the 
cupidity  of  the  13okharians,  Avho,  from  time  to  time,  risk  their  lives  to 
procure  a  few  particles  of  the  precious  metal.  This  is  the  manner  of  ob- 
taining it :  in  Bokhara  it  is  customary  to  carry  water  in  skins,  which 
preserve  the  form  of  the  animals  from  which  they  were  taken  ;  the  best 
are  the  skins  of  sheep  and  wild-goats.  The  mouth  of  this  vessel  corre- 
sponds to  the  neck  of  the  animal.  The  Bokharians  attach  these  skins  to 
a  cord  and  throw  them  into  the  Derwazeh  ;  the  furious  river  soon  fills 
the  skin  with  mud,  sand,  and  gold,  the  last  of  which  it  is  aacrward  easy 
to  extract  from  the  mixture ;  but  as  it  is  never  without  foreign  matter, 
its  value  is  to  that  of  pure  gold  as  eighteen  to  twenty-one.  May  not 
this  process  throw  light  upon  a  passage  of  Herodotus,  in  which  the  his- 
torian describes  the  means  employed  by  the  Indians  in  extracting  gold 

fi'om  sand  ? 

Bokharia  lies  between  forty-one  and  thirty-seven  degrees  north  lati- 
tude, and  sixty-one  and  sixty-six  degrees  thirty  minutes  east  of  Paris, 
comprising  a  surface  of  about  ten  thousand  square  leagues.  The  eastern 
part  is  mountainous ;  all  the  western  part  is  a  plain  extending  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  see,  upon  which  small  isolated  hills  rise  to  the  height  of  ten 
or  fiaeen  feet ;  these  hillocks  are  of  a  clayey  nature  like  the  rest  of  the 
desert ;  above  this  clay  the  sands  are  moved  by  the  winds,  and  formed 
into  ridges.  The  oases  of  Bokharia  present  a  most  pleasing  and  cheerful 
aspect.  There  is  no  country  better  cultivated  than  these  plains ;  they 
are  covered  with  houses,  gardens,  and  fields  divided  in  small  squares 
called  tanab,  the  sides  of  which  are  raised  a  foot  with  turf,  in  order  to 
retain  the  water  which  is  conveyed  thither  for  the  purposes  of  irrigation. 

large,  contains  many  well-built  hoiises ;  it  is  situated  in  a  valley,  and  is  divided  into  two 
parts,  one  inhabited  by  Chiueae,  the  other  by  Mohammedans,  who  carry  on  an  active 
trade  with  each  other. 

"Three  days  after  leaving  Aksou,  I  arrived  at  Turfan,  an  unsightly  little  town.  As 
the  inhabitants  are  very  poor,  nothing  interesting  is  to  be  found  here.  Fifteen  miles 
thence  are  the  frontiers  of  the  country  of  the  Kirghizes. 

"  Leaving  Turfan,  I  passed  through  many  wandering  tribes  of  Calmucks,  Kirghizes, 
Kaisaks,  and  finally  reached  Soraipalatinsk,  after  a  journey  of  three  months." 


UA. 

,h  of  Ilissar  aro 
re  Sunnitu  Mo- 
iental  PcrHians ; 
han  that  of  tho 
n  tho  low  lands 
and  have  seme 
■nter  a  country 
ry  little  known. 
,  M'ho  arc  rcprc- 
bit  tho  city  of 
er  of  the  same 

■ichcs  excite  tho 
ik  their  lives  to 
e  manner  of  ob- 

in  skins,  which 
taken ;  the  best 
his  vessel  corre- 
i\\  these  skins  to 
i  river  soon  fills 
i  afterward  easy 
;  foreign  matter, 
jr-one.  May  not 
in  which  the  his- 

cxtracting  gold 

jjirees  north  lati- 
es  east  of  Paris, 
es.  The  eastern 
tending  as  far  as 
he  height  of  ten 
0  tho  rest  of  the 
inds,  and  formed 
sing  and  cheerful 
lese  plains ;  they 
in  small  squares 
turf,  in  order  to 
)ses  of  irrigation. 

i  is  divided  into  two 
carry  oa  an  active 

itly  little  town.    As 
hero.    Fifteen  miles 

Kalmucks,  Kirghizes, 
months." 


CLIMATK    OF    BOKIIARIA. 


S39 


Thousands  of  water-courses  intersect  the  plain,  and  like  the  roads,  which 
are  very  narrow,  they  are  usually  bordered  with  trees.  Tho  waters  of 
thesio  canals  not  being  all  upon  tho  same  level,  they  are  connected  to- 
gether by  small  cascades,  which  soothe  the  car  with  an  agreeable  mur- 
mur.  Tho  great  quantity  of  trees  planted  on  every  side  Ibrm  screens 
which  prevent  tho  view  from  extending  to  a  distance. 

The  multiplicity  of  dwellings  indicates  a  numerous  population  ;  per- 
haps it  is  too  great  to  admit  of  a  general  competency.  These  dwellin.rs 
usually  form  villages,  which  aro  half  concealed  by  tho  fruit-trees  of  iUv 
gardens.  I  saw  villages  entirely  surrounded  by  walls  ;  they  were  a  kin.l 
of  fortresses;  others  are  oi)en,  tho  gardens  only  being  inclosed;  and 
these  walls,  often  indented  and  flanked  Avith  small  turrets,  add  to  the 
picturesque  appearance  of  tho  country  ;  they  also  indicate  that  the  ]wo. 
plo  are  afraid  of  being  pillaged  ;  and  the  frequent  incursions  of  tho  wan- 
dering tribes,  lead  us  to  suppose  that  the  existence  of  these  fortifications 
is  a  result  of  a  sad  necessity. 

A  Bokharian  village  usually  contains  a  hundred  houses,  built  of  eartli, 
and  separated  from  each  other  by  streets  which  aro  no  narrower  than 
those  of  the  cities.  In  tho  center  of  tho  village  is  frequently  a  well,  or 
a  small  reservoir,  in  which  tho  water  is  replenished  by  means  of  a  ditch. 
Each  village  is  situated  near  a  canal,  by  which  means  the  gardens  can 
be  watered. 

The  climate  of  the  mountain-regions  of  Bokharia  is  of  course  diftor- 
cnt  from  that  of  the  western  part  of  the  country,  Avhich  is  mild  and 
even :  I  shall  hero  speak  only  in  reference  to  tho  plains.  The  seasons 
there  are  very  regular ;  by  the  middle  of  February  tho  fruit-trees  begin 
to  bloom  ;  tho  forest-trees  put  forth  in  tho  early  days  of  March.  Then 
tho  beautiful  season  begins,  and  the  heavy  rains  cease,  afler  having  lasted 
nearly  three  weeks.  Soon  the  heat  becomes  oppressive  ;  it  is  tho  more 
perceptible  as  tho  atmosphere  is  rarely  refreshed  by  storms.  The  fine 
season  continues  until  October,  Avhen  tho  rains  usually  prevail  for  two  or 
three  weeks.  In  November  and  December,  slight  frosts,  and  sometimes 
a  little  snow,  announce  the  approach  of  winter ;  on  tho  20th  of  Decem- 
ber we  found  melons  still  in  tho  fields,  which  showed  that  tho  frosts 
could  not  have  been  heavy.  The  month  of  January  is  more  rigorous ; 
tho  usual  degree  of  cold  is  about  twenty-seven  degrees  Fahrenheit ;  it  is 
sometimes  as  low  as  fourteen  degrees,  and  water  freezes  from  three  to 
four  inches  thick.  Snow  has  been  known  to  remain  a  fortnight  on  the 
ground  without  thawing. 

The  winter  which  wo  passed  at  Bokhara  was  very  mild ;  durmg  four 
or  five  days  only,  the  cold  was  so  severe  as  to  freeze  the  water  two 
inches,  and  then  the  people  hastened  to  break  the  ice  and  pile  it  in  large 
heaps,  which  Mere  covered  with  earth  for  preservation.  The  rains  com- 
mence  between  the  "Zth  and  15th  of  February,  and  continue  until  the 
close  of  the  month.  Every  thing  becomes  green  and  flourishes  in  a  few 
days.    Nothing  proves  the  warm  climate  of  Bokhara  better  than  the 


I 


mmm 


ir 


r 


840 


MBYENDORFP'8  JOURNEY  TO  BOKHARA. 


■II 


beat  of  tho  iun ;  in  tho  month  of  January  wo  dined  in  tho  open  air, 
wlicn  tho  temperature  in  tho  nhadu  woa  filly-five  dcgrues,  and  ninety  in 
the  Bun. 

Violent  winds  prevail  in  winter  and  Hummer ;  thoy  ralso  to  a  great 
height  a  fino  dust,  which  hides  every  thing  from  view,  and  imparts  a 
gray  tint  to  the  atmosphere.  These  clouds  of  dust,  which  spread  over  a 
whole  district,  may  bo  seen  moro  than  fifteen  miles  distant.  The  cli- 
mate of  Bokhara  is  generally  healthy ;  tho  winter  and  tho  rainy  seasons 
refresh  and  purify  tho  atmosphere,  which  is  not  vitiated  by  any  noxious 
exhalations.  Tho  rheumatism  which  prevails  is  produced  by  tlie  damp- 
ness of  tho  Iiouses,  and  tho  frequent  sore  eyes  may  bo  caused  by  those 
violent  winds  and  the  dust  they  raise.  Blindness  must  bo  common  in 
this  country,  for  the  father  of  the  reigning  khau  erected  in  Bokhara  tho 
fatfutbad,  a  hospital,  or  rather  monastery,  of  the  blind,  where  about 
fifty  of  these  unfortunates  aro  lodged  by  twos  and  threes  in  small  cells 
arranged  around  a  mosque. 

All  the  cities  in  Bokharia  aro  built  near  tho  rivers,  and  consequently 
surrounded  by  cultivated  fields ;  tho  drought  is  frequently  so  great  in 
summer  that  tho  inhabitants  con  procure  water  only  by  digging  holes ; 
the  plain  of  Bokhara  is  so  low  that  water  is  found  everywhere  at  the 
depth  of  from  five  to  eight  feet.  This  stagnant  water  produces  worms 
which  tho  people  drink  without  perceiving  it ;  from  this  results  a  malady 
n.imed  riahta  by  the  Bokharians.  The  whole  body  becomes  covered 
with  pustules  which  occasion  very  painful  sores.  From  these  pustules 
come  worms  of  tho  class  annelidea.  The  Bokharians  know  no  remedy 
for  this  evil.  A  Russian  prisoner,  a  slave  in  Bokhara,  in  speaking  to 
me  of  the  scarcity  of  water  which  was  experienced  there,  said  in  a  tone 
of  vexation,  "  It  is  a  country  that  God  created  in  his  anger." 

Ourghenje  is  a  small  fortress  which  I  saw  on  our  return  to  Russia. 
I  could  not  obtain  permission  to  enter  the  city ;  they  closed  .the  gates 
upon  us,  probably  by  command  of  the  superior  powers.  It  has  the 
name  of  fortress  because  it  is  surrounded  by  an  earthen  wall  about 
twenty  feet  high.  Wo  passed  near  OurghenjS  on  the  26th  of  March; 
the  wind  was  high,  but  not  violent.  But  scarcely  had  we  quitted  the 
clayey  soil  when  we  found  ourselves  among  sandy  hillocks  and  the  wind 
became  more  furious;  the  sand  rose  in  whirlwinds  and  penetrated 
everywhere.  I  wore  spectacles  made  expressly  to  keep  off  the  dust, 
which  I  dreaded,  but  they  protected  my  eyes  but  imperfectly.  The 
sand  produced  a  kind  of  cloud  which  so  vailed  tho  light  of  day  that 
we  could  see  but  a  short  distance,  and  our  Kirghiz  guides  no  longer 
knew  the  route.  Happily  a  Bokharian  trooper  of  the  garrison  of  Our- 
ghenje followed  us  to  find  out  whether  any  Russian  slave  were  mingled 
with  our  escort ;  we  compelled  him,  by  holding  a  pistol  at  his  throat, 
to  act  as  our  guide ;  although  ho  rendered  us  this  service  much  against 
his  will,  he  prevented  us  from  going  astray.  Nothing  can  be  more 
disagreeable  than  this  sand ;  although  coarse,  it  penetrates  the  eyes,  the 


KRk. 


THE    CITY    OF    BOKnAHA. 


841 


n  tho  opon  ur, 
B,  and  ninety  in 

uiHe  to  a  great 
,  and  imparts  a 
ill  spread  over  a 
stant.  The  cli- 
tic rtuny  seasons 
by  any  noxious 
cd  by  the  damp- 
caused  by  those 
t  bo  common  in 
1  in  Bokhara  tho 
id,  where  about 
ees  in  small  cells 

nd  consequently 
jntly  80  great  in 
Y  digging  holes ; 
erywhere  at  the 
produces  worms 
results  a  malady    i 
becomes  covered 
jm  these  pustules 
know  no  remedy 
a,  in  speaking  to 
jre,  said  in  a  tone 
inger." 

return  to  Russia, 
closed  the  gates 
vers.    It  has  the 
rthen  wall  about 
3  25th  of  March ; 
ad  we  quitted  the 
acks  and  the  wind 
3  and  penetrated 
keep  off  the  dust, 
imperfectly.    The 
light  of  day  that 
s  guides  no  longer 
3  garrison  of  Our- 
lave  were  mingled 
stol  at  his  throat, 
rvice  much  against 
ling  can  be  more 
irates  the  eyes,  the 


mouth,  and  tho  cars ;  all  our  eyes  wcro  intlamed,  and  I  can  easily  con- 
ceive how  tho  army  of  Nndir-Hhali,  when  crosHing  tlio  deserts  west  of 
tho  Amou  duriug  a  storm,  lost  a  number  of  men  from  the  eflects  of 
ophthalmia.  It  ia  thus  that  tho  deserts  near  Bokharia  are  a  natural  do- 
fonso.  The  sand,  driven  by  tho  winds,  tills  u[)  tho  ditches,  drifts  aguinst 
tho  walls,  and  soon  rises  to  their  level,  lills  the  streets,  and  covers  the 
houses,  like  tho  atilica  of  Vesuvius  which  buried  Ilerculaneuni  and 
Pompeii. 

llaving  spoken  of  several  cities  of  Bokharia,  I  will  describe  tho  cn|>- 
ital  of  that  country.  Tho  oases  of  tho  surrounding  region  being  cov- 
ered with  avenues  of  troos  and  numerous  gardens,  tho  view  can  not 
extend  very  far,  henco  Bokhara  can  be  seen  only  within  about  two  miles 
distance,  in  coming  from  Wafkcnd.  The  view  is  striking  to  a  European. 
Domes,  mosques,  high  gables,  colleges,  minarets,  palaces  rising  in  tho 
midst  of  the  city,  tho  surrounding  walls  with  their  battlements,  a  lake 
near  the  walls,  bordered  by  houses  with  flat  roofs,  or  by  neat  country- 
houses  within  embrasured  walls — finally,  tho  fields,  tho  gardens,  the 
trees,  and  tho  activity  which  reigns  everywhere  in  tho  vicinity  of  a 
capital,  all  contribute  to  produce  a  very  agreeable  effect ;  but  tho  illusion 
ceases  os  soon  as  we  enter  tho  city,  for  with  tho  exception  of  the  baths, 
the  mosques,  and  the  temples,  wo  see  only  dingy  earthen  houses,  thrown 
beside  each  other  without  order,  forming  narrow,,  crooked  streets,  which 
are  filthy  and  difficult  to  traverse.  These  houses,  which  front  on  courts, 
present  to  tho  streets  only  smooth  walls,  without  windows,  or  any  thing 
to  relieve  the  eye  of  tho  passenger.  Every  thing  we  meet  in  this  popu- 
lous city  seems  to  hint  of  mistrust ;  the  countenances  of  tho  people  are 
scarcely  ever  animated  by  an  expression  of  gayety ;  there  are  no  noisy 
festivals,  no  songs,  and  no  music ;  nothing  indicates  that  they  sometimes 
amuse  themselves  there,  nothing  shows  that  the  city  is  inhabited  by  a 
people  enjoying  an  agreeable  existence.  Therefore  the  curiosity  and  tho 
interest  which  wo  felt  on  first  seeing  edifices  of  oriental  architecture,  was 
soon  followed  by  an  impression  of  sadness  and  melancholy. 

The  houses  are  built  of  clay,  mixed  with  cut  straw.  In  order  to 
give  more  consistence  to  this  mixture,  wooden  posts  are  placed  in  tho 
walls,  and  especially  at  the  corners.  Tho  ceilings  are  iisually  of  hard 
wood ;  they  are  covered  with  earth,  and  form  the  roofe,  which  are  flat. 
In  tho  handsomer  houses  tho  ceilings  of  tho  principal  apartments  arc 
covered  with  boards,  painted  with  different  colors.  The  floor  is  of  glazed 
earth  among  tho  common  people,  and  brick  among  tho  rich.  Tho  ft'ont 
and  the  A^nndows  open  upon  the  court,  and  a  single  door  leads  to  the 
street.  The  windows  aro  sometimes  openings,  dosed  simply  with 
wooden  shutters  ;  sometimes  they  aro  arched  openings  which  are  never 
closed,  and  aro  covered  only  with  a  trellis  of  plaster.  Tho  latter  kind 
of  windows  yield  only  an  indifferent  light ;  and  in  order  to  see  distinctly 
it  is  necessary  to  open  the  shutters.  But  in  winter  the  cold  is  often 
fifteen  degrees  above  zero,  so  that  the  apartments  without  stoves,  from 


BHUWWIiWaKK'ir.J.-.Va 


342 


MKYENDORPP'S  JOURNEY  TO  BOKHARA. 


which  the  external  air  is  not  excluded,  arc  cold  and  damp.  It  is  not 
surprising  then  that  rheumatisms  prevail  in  this  city,  especially  among 
t^o  poor.  In  order  to  protect  themselves  from  the  cold,  the  Bokharians 
make  use  of  braziers,  above  which  they  placi,  like  the  Turks,  a  small 
wooden  table,  covered  with  a  wadded  carpet ;  upon  this  they  seat  them- 
selves and  envelop  themselves  with  it  up  to  the  chin.  The  heat  of  the 
burning  charcoal  eifectively  preserves  the  body  from  cold,  but  one  can 
not  write  without  having  the  hands  frozen. 

The  city  is  about  ten  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  said  to  contain 
almost  eight  thousand  houses,  and  very  nearly  seventy  thousand  inhab- 
itants. Three  fourths  of  these  are  Tadjiks,  the  most  part  artizans.  The 
remainder  of  the  population  is  composed  of  Ouzbeks,  Jews,  Tartars, 
Afghans,  Calmucks,  Hindoos,  merchants  from  neighboring  cities,  pil- 
grims, Persian  and  Russian  slaves,  and  a  small  number  of  negroes.  The 
Jews  occupy  eight  hundred  houses ;  they  say  they  came  from  Samar- 
cand  about  seven  hundred  years  ago,  after  having  left  Bagdad.  Of  all 
the  cities  of  Central  Asia,  Bokhara  contains  the  greatest  number  of  this 
race.  They  are  permitted  to  inhabit  only  three  streets  in  the  city; 
among  them  there  are  two  rich  capitalists,  the  others  are  mostly  in  easy 
circumstances,  and  are  generally  manufacturers,  dyers,  and  silk-mer- 
chants. They  are  prohibited  from  riding  on  horseback  in  the  city,  and 
from  wearing  silken  garments ;  their  caps  must  have  a  border  '^f  black 
sheepskin,  which  may  be  only  two  inches  in  width.  They  are  not  per- 
mitted to  build  a  new  synagogue,  and  have  the  right  only  to  repair  the 
old  one. 

These  people  are  remarkable  in  their  personal  appearaiiCP,  for  a  hand- 
some beard,  a  countenance  somewhat  lengthened,  a  very  fair  complex- 
ion, and  eyes  which  are  large,  lively,  and  full  of  expression.  Having 
learned  that  the  government  feared  the  arrival  of  the  embassy  with  its 
numerous  escort,  they  regarded  us  as  ':.iessengers  from  heaven,  who 
came  perhaps  to  alleviate  their  sufTerings.  They  were  fearful  of  com- 
promising themselves  in  the  eyes  of  the  Bokharians ;  when  they  met  us 
they  saluted  us  in  a  friendly  and  propitiatory  manner,  but  nevertheless 
with  a  sentiment  of  fear.  The  rabbi  of  Bokhara  who  was  a  native  of 
Algiers  and  knew  a  little  Spanish,  told  me  that  on  his  arrival  in  Bokharia 
he  had  found  his  brethren  sunk  in  the  most  profound  ignorance ;  only 
a  very  small  number  knew  how  to  read.  They  possessed  but  two  copies 
of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  and  their  manuscript  contained  only  the  first 
three  books  of  the  Pentateuch.  This  Algerine  Jew,  an  intelligent  old 
man,  who  almost  wept  for  joy  at  again  seeing  Europeans,  has  neglected 
no  means  of  disseminating  instruction  among  the  people  of  his  religion. 
He  has  ibunded  a  school  and  procured  books  from  Russia,  Bagdad,  and 
Constantinople;  at  present  all  the  Jews  of  Bokhara  know  how  to  read 
and  write ;  they  study  the  Talmud. 

The  most  remarkable  edifice  of  the  city  is  the  palace  of  the  khan  ; 
the  Bokharians  call  it  Arck.    It  is  said  to  have  been  built  more  than  ten 


HARA. 

damp.  It  is  not 
,  especially  among 
,d,  the  Bokhariana 
he  Turks,  a  small 
lis  they  seat  them- 

The  heat  of  the 
cold,  but  one  can 

is  said  to  contain 
y  thousand  inhab- 
jart  artizans.  The 
ks,  Jews,  Tartars, 
iboring  cities,  pil- 
r  of  negroes.  The 
came  from  Samar- 
l  Bagdad.  Of  all 
est  number  of  this 
greets  in  the  city; 
are  mostly  in  easy 
ers,  and  silk-mer- 
sk  in  the  city,  and 
a  border  '^f  black 
They  are  not  per- 
t  only  to  repair  the 

caraiico,  for  a  hand- 
I,  very  fair  complex- 
xpression.  Having 
le  embassy  with  its 
from  heaven,  who 
'ere  fearful  of  com- 
;  when  they  met  us 
er,  but  nevertheless 
rho  was  a  native  of 
I  arrival  in  Bokharia 
nd  ignorance ;  only 
ssed  but  two  copies 
ained  only  the  first 
f,  an  intelligent  old 
)eans,  has  neglected 
>ople  of  his  religion, 
lussia,  Bagdad,  and 
k  know  how  to  read 

palace  of  the  khan  ; 
built  more  than  ten 


THE    STREETS   OP   BOKHARA. 


343 


centuries  ago,  by  Arslan-Khan;  it  is  situated  upon  an  cmmencc,  and  is 
surrounded  by  a  wall  about  six  feet  high,  which  has  but  a  single  gate. 
The  entrance  is  of  brick,  and  has  on  each  side  a  tower  about  ninety  feet 
in  height,  formerly  ornamented  with  green  glazed  tiles,  some  remains 
of  which  are  still  to  be  seen.  From  this  gate  leads  a  large  corridor,  the 
vaults  of  which  have  the  appearance  of  being  very  ancient.  Following 
this  corridor,  we  arrive  at  the  summit  of  a  hill  upon  which  are  situated 
some  clay  houses  which  are  inhabited  by  the  khan  and  his  court.  With- 
in this  inclosure  are  a  mosque,  the  dwellings  of  the  khan  and  his  chil- 
dren, the  harem,  surrounded  by  a  garden  and  concealed  by  trees-  a 
house  in  which  the  msMeghi  transacts  his  business  and  receives  au- 
diences, another  one  in  which  he  dwells— this  being  a  high  mark  of  favor 
—and  finally  the  apartments  for  the  people  and  the  slaves,  the  stables,  etc 
borne  storks  have  built  their  nests  upon  the  summit  of  the  towers 

In  Bokhara  we  see  streets  half  a  mile  long,  covered,  and  bordered  on 
each  side  with  shops ;  one  row  containing  women's  slippers  only,  another 
supplied  with  drugs  and  aromatics  which  perfume  the  air,  a  third  with 
jewels,  usually  of  little  value,  for  example,  turkoises  of  Persia,  Tartar 
rubies  from  the  lake  of  Badakhshan  and  from  Arabia ;  diadems  of  gold 
ornamented  with  inferior  turkoises,  for  the  Kirghiz  women.  Larce 
vaults  are  filled  with  nothing  but  dried  fruits  and  tobacco ;  others  with 
pistachios  preserved  in  manna,  with  prunes,  rose-colored  or  green 
grapes,  pomegranates,  and  melons  suspended  along  the  walls  on  cords' 
among  these  magazines  are  eating-houses  in  which  are  prepared  rice 
cooked  with  butter  or  mutton-fat,  and  often  colored  yellow  with  safl!ion 
and  another  dish  consisting  of  hashed  meat.  ' 

During  my  stay  at  Bokhara,  six  robbers,  Persian  slaves  by  birth,  and 
two  ladjiks,  were  hung  upon  the  gallows;  some  heads  of  Khivans,  of 
Ouzbeks,  from  Kokand,  and  the  environs  of  Balkh,  and  others,  were  set 
ap  on  posts,  or  exposed  upon  the  ground  near  the  gibbet.  The  popu- 
lace accustomed  to  this  spectacle,  continued  their  traffic  upon  the  square 
without  casting  a  look  of  compassion  upon  these  terrible  pictures ;  it  was 
not  thus  with  our  soldiers,  who  looked  upon  these  scenes  for  the  first 
tune  m  their  lives. 

Every  thing  in  Bokhara  shows  that  the  city  was  formerly  more  flour- 
ishing than  It  IS  now ;— the  coUeges  and  mosques  are  partly  fallen,  or  are 
badly  preserved.  I  saw  large  crevices  in  the  arches  of  a  temple  entirely 
new;  these  accidents  are  attributed  to  earthquakes,  but  I  think  they 
may  be  charged  to  the  ignorance  of  the  architects.  Nine  or  ten  miles 
from  Bokhara,  in  the  direction  of  Wafkend,  there  has  been  a  very  ancient 
bridge,  built  of  bricks,  in  a  single  arch  across  the  Zer-afshiln ;  it  is  fallen, 
and  has  not  been  reconstructed ;  the  stone  steps  which  lead  to  the  wells 
are  impaired,  and  no  one  thinks  of  repairing  them.  They  no  longer  know 
how  to  make  the  blue  tiles  which  adorn  the  public  edifices;  they  con- 
struct no  new  buildings  which  indicate  either  taste  or  riches.  A  portion 
of  the  most  beautiful  street  of  Bokhara  is  encumbered  with  stones  which 


!■ 


^ii^ 


I 


844     MEYENDORPP'S  JOURNEY  TO  BOKHARA. 

formerly  composed  the  pavement.  Even  the  private  houses,  of  which 
only  the  ancient  ones  have  basements  of  stone,  prove  that  this  capital  is 
not  so  rich  nor  so  well  governed  as  it  was  in  former  times. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  estimate  the  population  of  a  countiy  inhabited 
by  so  many  different  nations,  of  wliich  a  part  is  nomadic,  and  where  an 
enumeration  has  never  been  made.  In  order  to  present  something  satis- 
factory in  this  respect,  we  consulted  in  Bokharia  all  who  could  give  us 
any  certain  information  on  the  subject.  The  cultivated  portion  of  the 
khanate  may  be  estimated  at  twelve  hundred  square  leagues,  or  three 
hundred  thousand  square  miles.  If  we  suppose  each  of  these  square 
miles  inhabited  by  five  thousand  souls,  as  in  the  richest  countries  of  Italy, 
we  have  as  a  result,  in  Bokharia,  one  million  five  hundred  thousand  m- 
habitants,  living  by  agriculture,  or  semi-nomadic,  and  living  in  the  cities, 
and  by  adding  nearly  a  million  of  the  wandering  tribes,  we  find  that  the 
population  of  Bokharia  is  more  than  two  millions  of  souls. 

This  population  may  be  subdivided  as  follows : 

Ouzbeks 1,600,000 

Tadjiks 650,000 

Turcomans 200,000 

Arabs,     • 60.000 

Persians, 40,000 

Calmucks 20,000 

Kirprh'.ze3  and  Kara-kalpaks, 0,000 

Jews. 4.000 

Afghans, 4.000     " 

Lesghizes, 2,000 

Bohemians 2,000 

Tot4 2,478,000 

The  Khanates  of  Asia  carry  on  with  the  Kirghizes  and  the  Turcomans 
a  trade  in  slaves,  which  is  chiefly  supplied  by  the  robberies  of  these  wan- 
dering tribes,  and  by  the  wars  with  the  Persians.  The  taking  of  Merye 
added  twenty-five  thousand  to  the  number  of  Persian  slaves  in  Bokharia, 
which  is  estimated  at  forty  thousand.  Five  or  six  hundred  Russians  are 
held  in  slavery ;  they  have  been  sold  by  Kirghizes,  by  Turcomans,  who 
seize  fishermen  wrecked  upon  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Caspian  Sea,  or  by 

Khivans. 

Among  the  slaves  of  Bokharia  there  are  likewise  Chetrars,  Siapooshes, 
Hczarehs,  and  even  Georgians.  The  number  scarcely  diminishes,  for 
they  have  Persian  wives  given  to  them,  and  their  existence  and  well- 
being  is  connected  with  the  interest  of  their  masters.  The  price  of  an 
able-bodied  man  ranges  from  forty  to  fifty  tellas  (|130  to  $160).  If  he 
is  an  artisan,  for  instance  a  joiner,  a  furrier,  or  a  shoemaker,  he  brings  as 
much  as  one  hundred  tellas  ($320).  The  women  usually  sell  higher  than 
the  men,  at  least  if  they  are  young  and  beautiful ;  they  are  then  worth 
from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  tellas  ($320  to  $480).  The 
condition  of  the  slaves  in  Bokharia  is  horrible.    The  Russians  nearly  all 


ARA. 

louses,  of  which 

lat  this  capital  is 

es. 

suntiy  inhabited 

ic,  and  where  an 

something  sfitis- 
ho  could  give  us 
d  portion  of  the 
leagues,  or  three 

of  these  square 
ountries  of  Italy, 
red  thousand  in- 
king in  the  cities, 

we  find  that  the 
Is. 


1,600,000 

650,000 

200,000 

60,000 

40,000 

20,000 

6,000 

4,000 

4,000 

2,000 

2,000 


.     2,478,000 

ad  the  Turcomans 
ries  of  these  wan- 
i  taking  of  Merve 
aves  in  Bokharia, 
dred  Russians  are 
^  Turcomans,  who 
Caspian  Sea,  or  by 

etrars,  Siapooshes, 
ly  diminishes,  for 
xistence  and  well- 
The  price  of  an 
)  to  $160).  If  he 
laker,  he  brings  as 
ly  sell  higher  than 
ey  are  then  worth 
20  to  $480).  The 
Russians  nearly  all 


RUSSIAN    SLAVES. 


345 


complain  of  being  badly  fed  and  most  cruelly  beaten.    I  saw  one  whoso 
master  had  cropped  his  ears,  pierced  his  hands  with  a  nail,  cut  the  skin 
upon  his  back,  and  poured  boiling  oil  upon  his  arms,  in  order  to  make 
him  confess  by  what  route  his  comrade  had  escaped.    The  cus/t-beohi 
finding  one  of  his  Russian  slaves  intoxicated,  had  him  taken  next  day  to 
tlio  Kogistan  to  be  hung.     On  reaching  the  gallows,  the  unhappy  man 
was  solicited  to  abjure  his  religion  and  become  a  Mohammedan,  in  order 
to  obtain  pardon,  but  he  preferred  to  die  a  martyr  to  his  faith.    The 
greater  part  of  the  Russian  slaves  in  the  vicinity  of  Bokhara  were  locked 
up,  and  worked  with  irons  upon  their  feet  during  the  last  weeks  of  our  stay 
in  the  city.    A  single  Russian  slave  succeeded  in  rejoining  us  seventy 
miles  from  Bokhara,  after  having  wandered  eighteen  days  in  the  desert ; 
during  this  time  he  had  subsisted  on  water  and  meal  only.    He  expressed,' 
in  a  most  simple  and  touching  manner,  the  alarms  he  had  experienced  on 
seeing  us  (for  he  feared  lest  we  might  be  Kirghizes,  Khivans,  or  Ouz- 
beks),  and  the  extreme  joy  he  felt  when  he  recognized  our  Cossacks.     I 
can  not  describe  the  unbounded  happiness  of  a  dozen  Russian  slaves  whom 
we  purchased  in  Bokharia,  and  during  the  journey.    They  shed  tears  of 
joy.    The  Bokharian  government  would  have  been  so  cruel  as  to  pre- 
vent these  Russians,  who  had  been  purchased.  ^  om  returning  to  their 
country.    It  even  forbade  its  subjects  from  bulling  any  Russians  to  us, 
under  the  pretext  that  they  Avould  thereby  duninish  the  number  of  prose- 
lytes which  it  might  make. 

In  their  salutations  the  Bokharians  bend  forward  a  little,  place  the 
right  hand  upon  the  heart,  and  pronounce  the  word  khosh.  This  civility 
is  often  exaggerated  in  a  most  ridiculous  manner,  especially  by  the 
slaves ;  they  make  the  accompanying  gesture  by  turning  the  head  sev- 
eral times,  inclining  it  toward  the  left  shoulder,  raising  the  elbows, 
holdmg  the  two  hands  upon  the  heart,  smiling  in  a  silly  manner,  and 
pronouncing  the  word  khosh  with  emphasis,  as  if  they  would  split  their 
sides  with  laughing. 

In  the  streets  the  women  wear  a  long  mantle,  the  sleeves  of  which 
are  connected  behind,  and  a  black  vail  which  completely  conceals  the 
face.  They  see  badly  through  this  vail,  but  the  greater  part  of  them 
would  slyly  lift  up  one  comer  when  they  met  one  of  us ;  the  Tadjik 
women  also  took  pleasure  in  allowing  us  to  see  their  beautiful  eyes.  It 
became  fashionable  among  the  ladies  of  Bokhara  to  go  and  look  at  the 
Franks ;  the  extremity  of  the  roof  of  our  house  was  a  place  of  meeting 
for  them,  and  the  limit  which  decorum  imposed  upon  their  curiosity. 
There,  less  observed  by  the  Bokharians,  a  few  pretty  women  presented 
themselves  to  our  gaze,  and  we  frequently  admired  eyes  full  of  fire,  su- 
perb teeth,  and  a  most  beautiful  complexion.  The  Bokharian  severity 
soon  put  an  end  to  this  too  Avorldly  procedure ;  the  police  took  measures 
for  preventing  the  women  from  ascending  our  roof,  and  we  lost  the 
pleasure  of  a  scene  which  enlivened  our  repasts. 

Wo  remained  in  this  city  from  the  20th  of  December,  1820,  until  the 


1^^ 


346 


MEYENDORFF'S  JOURNEY  TO  BOKHARA. 


10th  of  March,  1821 :  the  weather  having  hecomo  very  fine  we  then  re- 
paired to  Bazartchi.  The  bivouac  in  the  gardens  of  that  place  appeared 
to  U8  far  preferable  to  the  sojourn  in  the  gloomy  houses  ot  Bokhara 

On  the  22d  of  March  we  set  out  from  Bazartchi;  on  the  25th  we 
left  Bokhara,  well  pleased  to  have  aeen  the  country,  but  still  better  satis- 
fied to  get  away  from  it. 


iRA. 

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n  the  25th  we 
till  better  satis- 


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TIMKOVSKTS 

JOURNEY    FROM    SIBERIA    TO    PEKIN, 


For  more  thwi  a  century  Russia  has  maintained  at  Pekin  a  convent 
and  a  school  for  the  instruction  of  interpreters  in  the  Chinese  and  Man- 
choo  languages.  Every  ten  years  the  persons  composing  these  two  es- 
tablishments are  renewed,  and  new  monks  and  pupils  are  sent  from  St 
Petersburg  to  the  capital  of  China.  This  little  caravan  is  conducted  by 
a  Russian  officer,  commissioned  to  take  charge  of  it,  to  install  it  upon 
Its  arrival  in  Pekm,  and  then  to  lead  back  to  their  country  the  monks 
whose  term  has  expired  and  the  pupils  who  have  completed  their  studies. 
It  was  on  a  mission  of  this  kind  that  Timkovski,  Attache  of  the  College 
of  Foreign  Affairs,  set  out  in  1820  from  Kiakhta,  a  fort  situated  on  the 
frontiers  between  the  Russian  possessions  and  those  of  China.  He  tra- 
versed. Mongolia,  passed  the  Great  Wall,  and  arrived  on  the  1st  of  De- 
cember at  Pekin,  where  he  remained  until  the  16th  of  May  in  the  fol- 
lowing  year. 

All  the  European  embassies  which  have  gone  to  Pekm  have  made 
but  a  very  short  stay  in  the  capital  of  the  Chinese  empire,  and  have  been 
contmually  subjected  to  a  most  annoying  surveillance,  prompted  by  the 
distrust  which  the  Chinese  exhibit  toward  strangers.  M.  Timkovski 
vmted  Pekin  under  much  more  &vorable  auspices;  like  all  Russians  he 
enjoyed  fuU  liberty,  being  allowed  to  pass  through  the  various  quarters 
of  that  immense  city  and  to  visit  aU  its  monuments  and  curiosities. 
Hence  he  was  enabled  to  make  more  accurate  observations  than  the  trav- 
elers who  had  previously  visited  China;  besides  which,  he  had  at  his 
disposal  several  mterpreters  who  were  perfectly  acquamted  with  the 
language  of  the  country;  consequently  his  remarks  are  worthy  of  greater 
confidence  than  those  of  the  travelers  who,  bemg  unacquainted  with 
either  Chmese  or  Manchoo,  could  not  enter  into  conversation  with  the 
mhabitants  of  the  empire. 

On  the  14th  of  June,  1728,  a  treaty  of  peace  was  concluded  between 
t/ount  Vladislavitch,  embassador  extraordmary  of  Russia,  and  the  rain- 
wters  of  Chma.    The  fifth  article  is  as  follows:  "The  Russians  shall 


850 


TIMKOVSKI'S    JOURNEY    TO    FEKIN. 


l.enceforth  occupy  in  Pekin  the  kuan,  or  court,  winch  they  at  present  m- 
habit.     In   accordance  with  the  wiwhes  .,f  the  llussmn  embassador  a 
church  shall  be  erected,  with  the  assistance  of  the  Chinese  government. 
The  priest  who  resides  at  Pekui,  and  the  three  others  who  are  expected, 
according  to  the  articles  of  agreement,  shall  be  lodged  m  the  kua,^  or 
court,  above-mentioned.    These  three  priests  shall  be  connected  with 
the  same  church,  and  receive  the  same  provisions  as  the  present  priest 
The  Russians  will  be  permitted  to  worship  God  accordmg  to  the  ritej  of 
their  religion.    There  shall  likewise  be  received  into  this  house  four 
young  students,  and  two  of  a  more  advanced  age,  conversant  with  the 
llussian  and  Latin  languages,  whom  the  embassador  is  de«roi«  ojleav- 
mg  in  Pekin  in  order  to  learn  the  languages  of  the  country.    T^^Vff 
be  supported  at  the  expense  of  the  emperor  and  shall  be  a  hberty  to 
return  to  their  country  as  soon  as  they  shall  have  completed  their 

studies."  .    .  •  .•         e 

In  accordance  with  this  treaty,  the  Russian  mission,  consisting  ot 

six  ecclesiastical  members  and  four  laymen  was  f  f  ^«J«^;"  ^^^"'• 
The  lay  members  were  young  men  engaged  m  the  study  of  the  Manchoo 
and  Chinese  languages,  and  in  acquiring  correct  infoi-mation  respecting 
the  country.    The  usual  sojourn  of  the  mission  at  Pekm  is  ^^f  «^t   «° 
years,  but  the  correspondence  between  the  R«f 'f  ™?J«*«7V  pS 
affairs  in  the  name  of  the  controlling  senate,  and  the  tribunal  of  Pekm, 
is  subject  to  so  many  delays,  that  the  stay  of  the  mission  ^r^^YJ^' 
tinues  for  a  longer  period.    In  conformity  with  the  fifth  article  of  the 
eatv  a  new  mifsion  set  out  from  St.  Petersburg  in  1819  to  rep  ace  that 
which  had  been  in  Pekin  smce  the  10th  of  January,  1808.    It  arrived 
It  MouskL  February,  1820,  and  on  the  15th  of  July  at  Ti.itsko;savsk 
a  fortress  better  known  under  the  name  of  Kiakhta,  where  it  made  prep- 
arations to  pass  the  frontiers  withm  a  month.  .    .       *  „ 
M.  Timkovski  was  ordered  to  accompany  the  new  mission  fiom 
Kiakhta  to  Pekm,  and  to  bring  back  the   one  which  had  been  there 
since  1808.    His  retinue  was  composed  of  an  inspector  of  ^Wge,  an 
interpreter  of  Mongolese  and  Manchoo,  and  a  detachment  of  thirty  Cos- 
aS    The  latter  were  to  escort  the  baggage     From  the  time  the  m^ 
sion  passed  the  Russian  frontiers,  it  was  under  the  protection  of  the 

Chinese  government.  ,  .■.■,■        ^     *« 

The  lesion  prepared  to  leave  Russia  as  early  as  possible  m  order  to 
avoid  the  difficulties  inseparable  from  a  journey  in  the  latter  end  of 
autumn  across  the  eold  and  arid  steppes  of  Mcngoha,  and  especiaUy  m 
the  desert  of  Gobi.  The  Chinese  conductors  did  »«*  ^^"7  ""*J  *^^ 
27th  of  August  at  Maimatcbin,  which  is  the  Chmese  port  of  Kiakhta, 
situated  immediately  on  the  frontier,  three  miles  from  Troxtsko-sav^^ 
M.  Timkovski  repaired  thither  and  hastened  the  preparations  for  the 
iournev  The  staff  of  the  Chinese  conductors  consisted  of  an  inspector 
ind  J'boshko,  or  sergeant-major.  The  former,  named  Tschmg  w^«  * 
bUkheahi,  or  secretary  of  the  seventh  class,  and  was  sixty  years  of  age , 


DEPARTURE  FROM  KIAKUTA. 


851 


at  present  in- 
jinbassador  a 
government, 
are  expected, 
1  the  kuan,  or 
)nnected  with 
present  priest, 
to  the  ritea  of 
lis  house  four 
rsant  with  the 
isirous  of  loav- 
y.    They  shall 
oe  at  liberty  to 
umpleted  their 

1,  consisting  of 
shed  in  Pekin. 
of  the  Manchoo 
ition  respecting 
1  is  fixed  at  ten 
lister  of  foreign 
bunal  of  Pekin, 
sion  usually  con- 
,h  article  of  the 
9  to  replace  that 
808.    It  arrived 
t  Troitskojsavsk, 
;rc  it  made  prep- 

iw  mission  from 
lad  been  there 
of  baggage,  an 
jnt  of  thirty  Cos- 
the  time  the  mis- 
)rotection  of  the 

jsible,  in  order  to 
le  latter  end  of 

and  especially  in 
>t  arrive  until  the 
port  of  Kiakhta, 
a  Troitsko-savsk. 
parations  for  the 
ed  of  an  inspector 
d  Tsching,  was  a 

:ty  years  of  age ; 


he  wore  upon  his  cup,  but  only  out  of  the  capital,  a  white  button  of 
opa(]uc  stone,  which  gave  liim  the  rank  of  mandarin  of  the  sixlii  cluhs. 
lie  was  accunipuniud  by  Chackdor,  a  Mongolusu  interpreter  aged  twenty 
years,  and  two  nerbsy  or  servants,  father  and  son.  Gurgentai,  the  boshko, 
was  forty-seven  years  of  age ;  out  of  tlio  capital  ho  wore  on  his  cap  a 
gilded  button  indicating  the  seventh  class,  and  was  attended  by  a  serv- 
ant. There  was  yet  one  important  affair  to  bo  attended  to  before  set- 
ting out.  It  was  necessary  to  bestow  a  few  presents  upon  the  conduct- 
ors to  induce  them,  as  the  season  was  so  fur  advanced,  to  provide  tlu; 
mission  without  delay  with  yoiirtes,  or  kibitkas  (felt-tents),  and  other 
objects  indispensable  to  so  long  a  journey. 

On  the  30th  of  August  the  festival  of  the  Emperor  Alexander  was 
celebrated  by  a  7^  Deum  chanted  in  the  church  of  lUakhta.  It  was 
followed  by  a  dinner  given  by  the  counselor  of  chancery,  commissioner 
of  the  frontier,  at  which  were  present  the  Tsargoochee  of  Maimatchin, 
the  boshko,  the  principal  Chinese  merchants,  and  the  conductors  of  the 
mission.  They  drank  to  the  health  of  the  emperor  and  of  the  Bogdo- 
khan  (emperor  of  China),  and  to  an  eternal  friendship  between  the  two 
empires.  These  toasts  were  drunk  to  the  sound  of  volleys  of  artillery 
and  the  ringing  of  bells ;  the  soldiers  of  the  garrison,  in  full  parade, 
made  the  air  resound  with  songs  of  rejoicing.  The  joy  and  freedom 
which  reigned  in  this  little  festival  of  the  Russians  made  a  lively  im- 
pression on  the  minds  of  their  guests. 

The  preliminary  arrangements  being  finally  all  completed,  the  mis- 
sion set  forward  on  the  31st  of  August.  The  baggage  went  in  advance 
to  the  first  station,  about  five  miles  from  Kiakhta.  The  mission  was  ac- 
companied by  the  dignitaries  and  principal  citizens  of  Troitska-savsk  to 
Kiakhta,  where  they  all  repaired  to  church,  after  which  they  were  enter- 
tained at  a  dinner  by  the  merchants  of  the  place.  After  dinner  they 
went  to  thank  God  once  more  upon  the  soil  of  their  country ;  then,  ac- 
companied by  the  clergy  of  Kiakhta,  preceded  by  crucifixes,  and  at- 
tended by  the  ringing  of  bells,  they  arrived  at  the  frontier.  Notwith- 
standing the  rain  a  large  concourse  of  curious  Russians  and  Chinese  was 
assembled.  After  stopping  awhile  at  the  house  of  the  Tsargoochee,  they 
entered  the  Chinese  em;iire  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  accompanied 
by  the  custom-house  director,  and  the  counselor  of  chancery.  Arriving 
at  some  tents  which  the  Chinese  had  erected  at  the  distance  of  two 
miles,  the  Tsargoochee  offered  them  tea ;  they  then  took  leave  of  their 
fellow-countrymen  and  proceeded  on  their  journey  through  a  heavy  rain. 
A  detachment  of  twenty  Mongolese  troopers  formed  their  advance- 
guard.  Toward  seven  o'clock  they  halted,  after  having  gone  about 
three  miles.  They  found  four  yourtes  prepared  for  them ;  one  was  for 
the  clergy,  another  for  the  students,  the  third  for  M.  Timkovski  and 
suite,  and  the  fourth  for  the  Cossacks.  The  baggage  had  already  ar- 
rived ;  the  horses  and  oxen  fed ;  as  to  the  camels,  they  were  prepared 
for  the  journey  by  depriving  them  of  food  and  drink  for  twelve  days. 


i 


852 


TIMKOVSKI'S    JOURNEY    TO    PEKIN. 


The  horses  which  had  been  cinijloyed  in  transporting  the  baggago  were 
deprived  of  food  nil  night,  in  order  to  strengthen  them,  aceordhig  to  the 
custom  of  the  Mongoleso  and  the  inhabitants  of  Siberia. 

They  made  preparations  for  departing  at  an  early  liour  next  morning, 
but  n  long  time  passed  before  the  camels  were  caught  and  loaded,  as 
they  were  very  wild  ;  one  of  the  horses  started  to  run  toward  the  front- 
ier so  swiftly  that  the  Cossacks  and  Mongols  could  not  recapture  it.  At 
length  they  succeeded  in  getting  under  way ;  the  baggage  went  in  ad- 
vance, then  the  camels  and  the  vehicles,  an  arrangement  which  was  ob- 
served throughout  the  journey.  The  members  of  the  mission  then  pro- 
ceeded in  equipages,  and  the  horses  followed  slowly,  in  order  to  husband 
their  strength.  The  oxen  wore  left  under  the  safeguard  of  a  Mongolese, 
with  five  soldiers  under  him;  at  night  three  Cossacks  watched  alter- 
nately. In  order  to  have  an  eye  over  all,  M.  Timkovski  made  the  whole 
journey  on  horseback,  having  under  his  orders  an  inspector  of  baggage, 
the  interpreter,  and  a  Cossack.  The  summer  having  been  rainy,  the 
plain  was  covered  with  water  and  extremely  muddy ;  after  having  trav- 
eled two  miles  they  reached  a  more  elevated  place,  whence  they  beheld 
Kiakhta ;  the  church,  the  houses  of  their  friends  and  other  places  which 
were  known  to  them,  were  the  last  objects  which  recalled  their  country, 
suggesting  the  hope  of  one  day  returning  to  it. 

The  koudoni  of  their  next  station,  situated  upon  the  right  bank  of  the 
Ibitsykh,  came  to  meet  them,  and  saluted  them  in  the  manner  of  the 
borscmen  of  the  steppes ;  ho  dismounted  from  his  horse,  bent  the  left 
knee  before  Timkovski,  rested  his  right  arm  upon  his  side,  and  support- 
ing it  with  the  left  hand,  cried,  "-4moMr  /"  (peace).  He  then  remounted 
and  conducted  them  by  a  ford  to  the  tents,  where  the  mission  arrived  at 
four  o'clock  in  the  evening.  During  the  night,  the  thermometer  indi- 
cated twenty-five  degrees  Fahrenheit.  In  the  valleys,  surrounded  by 
high  mountains,  the  air  is  always  cold ;  beyond  Kiakhta,  which  is  quite 
elevated,  there  is  a  considerable  ascent  to  the  desert  of  Gobi ;  this  they 
perceived  in  the  continually  increasing  cold  of  the  atmosphere.  M. 
Struve,  who  was  in  the  southern  part  of  the  country  of  the  Khalkhas,  on 
the  20th  of  December,  1805,  states  that  at  twelve  miles  from  Kiakhta, 
the  great  elevation  of  that  part  of  Mongolia  obliged  him  to  take  a  large 
quantity  of  hot  tea ;  and  yet  his  health  did  not  suffer  in  consequence. 

They  found  their  linen  tents  quite  useless,  the  texture  not  being  com- 
pact enough;  and  they  could  not  kindle  a  fire  in  them.  Having  no 
yourtes,  which  are  so  serviceable  to  those  who  traverse  the  steppes,  and 
deprived  of  the  time  and  means  of  obtaining  water  and  argaJ,  or  fuel, 
which  is  used  in  the  desert,  they  were  sometimes  obliged,  by  the  habitual 
indolence  of  their  Chinese  conductors,  to  have  recourse  to  the  inhabit- 
ants for  aid,  especially  in  obtaining  good  pastures  for  their  animals.  M. 
Timkovski  testified  their  gratefulness  to  the  people  for  these  favors  Viy 
small  presents.  In  the  morning  their  departure  was  again  delayed  by 
the  difficulty  in  harnessing  the  horses  of  the  steppes,  which  were  not  ao- 


3  baggage  were 
iccording  to  the 

r  next  morning, 
,  and  loaded,  as 
oward  the  front- 
ccapturo  it.    At 
jage  went  in  ad- 
it which  was  ob- 
nission  then  pro- 
)rder  to  husband 
I  of  a  Mongolese, 
»  watched  alter- 
i  made  the  whole 
ictor  of  baggage, 
;  been  rainy,  the 
ifter  having  trav- 
icnce  they  beheld 
ther  places  which 
led  their  country, 


right  bank  of  the 
he  manner  of  the 
orse,  bent  the  left 
side,  and  support- 
e  then  remounted 
mission  arrived  at 
thermometer  indi- 
es, surrounded  by 
tita,  which  is  quite 
»f  Gobi;  this  they 

atmosphere.  M. 
iftheKhalkhas,  on 
dies  from  Kiakhta, 
lira  to  take  a  large 
in  consequence, 
ure  not  being  com- 
them.  Having  no 
se  the  steppes,  and 

and  argal,  or  Cuel, 
;ed,  by  the  habitual 
urse  to  the  inhabit- 

their  animals.  M. 
for  these  favo^^  ^y 
IS  again  delayed  by 
which  were  not  ao- 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


iniHMMnni 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


iu 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historicai  IVIicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


""««ll 


THE  PRAYER  OF  THE  MONGOLS. 


853 


customed  to  drawing  carriages.    The  Mongolese  admired  the  dexterity 
and  courage  of  the  Cossacks,  who  managed  three  wild  horses  at  a  time. 

At  a  short  distance  a  mountain  rose  on  one  hand,  and  on  the  left  ex- 
tended a  deep  valley  in  which  they  saw  some  scattered  yourtes  and  a 
few  solitary  birch-trees.  They  descended  thither  by  a  narrow  path 
along  the  steep  rocks  of  the  Isagan-oola,  or  White  Mountain,  whose  base 
AVBs  carpeted  with  luxuriant  herbage.  The  rocks  were  covered  with 
woods,  chiefly  of  birch,  whose  yellow-tinted  leaves  announced  the  ap- 
proach of  autumn.  The  heat  of  the  day  frequently  obliged  the  camels 
to  stop,  and  greatly  retarded  their  journey.  From  the  summit  of  the 
mountains  lying  midway  between  the  Ibitsykh  and  the  Iro,  they  j)er- 
ceived  a  plain  of  a  few  miles  circuit,  surrounded  by  mountains,  and 
sprinkled  over  with  fields  of  millet  and  other  gr.iiii.  On  approaching 
this  plain  a  lama  of  a  very  advanced  age,  who  was  going  on  horseback 
to  visit  his  fields,  accompanied  them  for  a  long  time.  He  held  in  one 
hand  a  string  of  beads,  which  he  raised  toward  the  sky.  This  priest  of 
Buddha  was  continually  repeating  these  words :  Om.  ma  ni  bat  me  khom; 
he  accompanied  them  with  deep  sighs,  and  pronounced  them  in  the  tone 
adopted  for  the  prayers,  which  greatly  resembles  the  sound  of  a  double- 
bass,  or  the  humming  of  bees.  Every  follower  of  Buddha  is  obliged  to 
recite  this  prayer  as  often  as  he  can,  while  devoting  himself  to  pious 
meditations.  In  order  that  it  may  not  be  forgotten,  it  is  written  upon 
linen,  paper,  wood,  and  stone,  in  the  temples,  in  the  tents,  and  by  the 
wayside.  The  Mongolese  lamas  pretend  that  these  words :  Om  ma  ni 
bat  me  khom,  to  which  they  ascribe  a  mysterious  and  supernatural 
power,  exempt  the  faithful  from  suffering  in  a  future  life,  increase  their 
good  qualities,  and  bring  them  nearer  divine  perfection. 

The  inhabitant  of  these  steppes,  convinced  of  the  existence  of  a  su- 
preme, incomprehensible,  and  all-powerful  Being,  whose  power  extends 
over  all  nature,  believes  that  his  beneficent  spirit  manifests  itself  most 
willingly  in  objects  which  appear  in  colossal  forms.  For  this  reason 
a  huge  rock,  a  lofty  moimtain,  a  large  tufted  tree,  or  a  great  river, 
is  an  object  of  reverence  to  a  Mongolese.  Before  this  he  raises, 
with  reverence,  according  to  the  direction  of  a  lama,  an  abo,  or  altar 
of  stone,  sand,  earth,  or  wood,  before  which  ho  prostrates  himself 
to  adore  the  divinity.  In  time  of  war  he  desires  aid  to  vanquish 
his  enemy  and  to  defend  his  country ;  he  addresses  it  when  sickness 
afflicts  his  family  or  his  cattle,  and  in  all  misfortunes.  A  Mongolese  who 
meets  with  an  abo,  descends  from  his  horse,  places  himself  on  its  south- 
em  side,  turning  his  fece  toward  the  north,  and,  prostrating  himself 
many  times  upon  the  earth,  deposits  something  upon  the  altar.  They 
often  saw  locks  of  hair  upon  the  abocs,  these  being  the  votive  offerings 
of  wandering  horsemen  in  behalf  of  their  cattle,  their  inseparable  com- 
panions. 

Leaving  the  plain  by  a  narrow  passage  between  the  hills,  they  de- 
scended to  the  meadows  of  the  Iro,  and  reached  the  banks  of  that  river 

23 


.! 


•W 


854 


TIMKOVSKI'S  JOURNEY  TO  PBKIN. 


in  the  cvenmg.  A  great  number  of  the  inhabitants,  and  the  people  attached 
to  the  service  of  the  priests,  were  assembled  there  to  a,d  the  mission  m 
cros  in.     The  continual  rains  of  summer  had  swollen  the  waters  oi  the 
river,  and  increased  the  rapidity  of  the  current     The  most  important  ef- 
fects were  transported  on  komygas,  or  large  beams  of  hollowed  pines, 
somewhat  resembUng  canoes,  which  were  lashed  together  m  pairs  fo 
paTsin.^  the  water.    The  camels  forded  the  stream  higher  up     With  a^l 
S        exertions,  the  transportation  was  not  completed  by  ten  o'clock 
Te  people  forded  the  stream  next  day,  and  one  of  the  Cossacks  caught 
.  Wrom  which  he  suffered  a  long  time.    In  the  evening,  the  tsang- 
Inn  of  the  place  called  upon  M.  Timkovski,  and  entreated  lum  to  excr- 
ciol  authority  in  forbiddmg  the  students  to  continue  the  amusemen 
of  Vig,  in  which  they  were  engaged.    He  hastened  to  comply  with 
the  wishes  of  the  Mongolese,  who  regard  the  fishes  as  sacred  in  accord- 
ance with  their  belief  in  metempsychosis,  a  dogma  of  their  religion. 

The  night  was  mild,  and  the  mission  set  forth  early  on  the  mornmg 
of  the  3d.    As  soon  as  they  had  left  their  camp,  some  Mongolese  women 
who  had  charge  of  the  domestic  affairs,  came  to  fold  up  the  tents;  in  a 
very  short  tim^c  they  finished  this  work,  loaded  the  camels,  and  reUred. 
Throughout  the  iouniey  the  yourtes  for  the  guides  were  prepared  in  ad- 
vance but  tho^^^^^^^^  the^  mission  were  borrowed  from  the  inhabitants  of 
he  neighborhood,  and  mostly  from  the  poorer  classes.    After  traveling 
fifteen^  they  reached  an  elevation,  upon  whicH  stood  a  -  oss^l  rock ; 
to  re^i.^h  ,  rose  the  summit  of  Narcen  Koundoo  covered  with  lofty 
IZ-  we  tward,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Selby,  which  emp  les  mto  the 
OcS^n  Znt  Mingadara  reached  the  clouds.    Near  this  «u>untain 
Uiere  are  said  to  be  a  great  number  of  temples,  in  the  largest  of  which 
ntryLrlusandlLasassembleonthedaysofsolemnfestiva^^     De- 

scendCbyanarrowand difficult  path, theyreached  a  co^^^^^^ 
thence  Foceeding  by  a  short  ascent,  they  came  to  tl^e  ban^-^  ^^^^^^^^ 
Shara  where  they  halted  in  a  spot  surrounded  by  mountains  Here  they 
fc„:aV:;::x*.lL  yonr.c,  a.f  prepared  ;  «^o»  for  the  Abot  and  T^m- 
kovski  were  hung  with  nankeen,  with  a  colored  border ,  tbe  Boor  was 
^°  ril  with  a  feU  carpet.  For  these  attention,  they  we  .ndeb^d  to 
Idam  T«>p,  a  venerable  Mongole*!  who  accomp.med  them.  By  h.8  or 
der,,  K.n,obrick»  of  tea  were  prepared  for  the  Cos««!k8.        . 

me  Mongotae,  and  the  greater  part  »*»''«"?"""«  "^^IS 

'^^;«r:°'°Tre'clTJwhreCn''r^^^^^^ 

are  dried  up  dirty,  or  «,^iled,  as  well  a,  the  .terns,  and  haying  mixed 
wW>  AemTglntiLs  substance,  they  inclose  the  ma..  ■"  """'.""f  ""'J' 


L 


1 


[N. 

le  people  attached 
iid  the  mission  in 
ihe  waters  of  the 
iiost  important  ef- 
f  hollowed  pines, 
ither  in  pairs,  fo. 
ber  up.     With  all 
d  by  ten  o'clock. 
9  Cossacks  caught 
vening,  the  tsang- 
lated  him  to  excr- 
ue  the  amusement 
ed  to  comply  with 

sacred,  in  accord- 
their  relierion. 
ly  on  the  morning 
Mongolese  women 

up  the  tents ;  in  a 
amels,  and  retired, 
ere  prepared  in  ad- 

the  inhabitants  of 
s.  After  traveling 
lod  a  colossal  rock ; 

covered  with  lofty 
3h  empties  mto  the 
rear  this  mountain 
he  largest  of  which 
lemn  festivals.    De- 
ft contracted  gorge ; 
le  banks  of  the  river 
untains.     Here  they 
the  abbot  and  Tim- 
)rder ;  the  floor  was 
ey  were  indebted  to 
id  them.     By  his  or- 

icks. 

dering  tribes  of  Mid- 
lace  of  both  victuals 
a  considerable  trade 
aside  the  leaves  that 
3,  and  having  mixed 
lass  in  oblong  molds, 
ates,  the  inhabitants 
ucks,  take  a  lump  of 
powder  into  a  bronze 
jon  the  fire  for  some 


MORAL  CODE  OF  THE  BUDDHISTS. 


865 


time,  adding  to  it  a  little  salt  and  milk ;  they  sometimes  mix  with  it  some 
flour  fried  in  oil. 

On  encamping,  the  second  evening  afterward,  a  crowd  of  Mongolese 
immediately  surrounded  their  equipages,  the  ironed  wheels  especially  at- 
tracting their  attention.  The  Mongolese  carriage  is  usujilly  constructed 
with  two  wheels,  which  turn  with  the  axle.  The  wheel  is  formed  of  two 
small  square  blocks  of  wood,  placed  across  each  other,  and  having  the 
angles  rounded  ofi".  Next  day,  they  crossed  the  Tumcrkay,  Avhose  sum- 
mit was  crowned  by  a  colossal  abo  of  stones,  and  then  passed  by  a  rapid 
descent  through  the  gorges  of  that  mountain,  and  contmued  their  route 
through  narrow  defiles  where  lofty  mountains  towered  up  on  one  hand, 
while  on  the  other  enormous  rocks  hung  over  their  heads.  Emerging 
from  these,  they  i)assed  over  a  dangerous  declivity,  and  entered  a  plain 
which  led  to  the  Khara  (black)  River,  on  whose  banks  they  encamped. 
It  rained  all  night ;  the  weather  was  continually  cloudy.  For  the  first 
time  they  were  obliged  to  make  use  of  their  four  yourtes  and  their  tents, 
in  order  to  shelter  the  baggage  from  the  rain.  After  dinner  they  fished 
in  the  Khara.  This  exercise,  unknown  to  the  Mongolese,  attracted  a 
crowd  of  spectators.  They  were  richly  rewarded  for  their  pains,  but 
their  venerable  Mongolese  friend,  Idam  Tsap,  a  zealous  believer  in  metemp- 
sychosis, soon  came  with  his  nephew,  and  entreated  them  to  throw  the 
fish  back  into  the  water ;  which  they  thought  it  best  to  do. 

It  may  be  well  to  observe  here  in  explanation  of  this  circumstance 
that  the  moral  code  of  Buddha  reckons  ten  mortal  sins,  or  black  actions^ 
divided  thus : 

Sim  of  the  body : — Assassination,  theft,  fornication. 

Sins  of  speech: — Lying,  calumny,  obscene  words,  and  threatening 
expressions. 

Sim  of  the  soul: — Vengeance,  envy,  the  abandonment  of  the  true 
doctrine. 

The  ten  supreme  virtues,  or  white  actiom,  consist  in  every  thing 
which  is  opposed  to  these  sins.  Homicide  alone  is  not  the  greatest 
sin,  but,  according  to  the  ideas  concerning  the  transmigration  of  souls,  it 
is  a  sin  to  kill  the  smallest  animal.  No  lama,  no  pious  Mongolese,  will 
take  the  life  of  an  insect:  still  it  is  permitted  to  eat  the  flesh  of  animals 
slaughtered  by  another.  This  is  probably  because  many  of  the  steppes, 
not  being  adapted  to  tillage,  offer  only  flesh  for  nourishment. 

Toward  evening  several  Mongolese,  attracted  by  the  singing  of  the 
Cossacks,  gathered  near  to  listen  to  them,  and  even  the  guides  heard 
them  with  pleasure.  It  was  evident  that  the  melody  was  to  their  taste. 
Meanwhile  the  boshko  was  resting  in  the  tent  of  the  abbot  an<l  attempt- 
ing to  learn  by  heart  some  Russian  words,  such  as :  liaran  (ram),  ovtsa 
(ewe),  kon  (horse),  votka  (brandy),  rittmka  (glass  of  wine),  etc.  As  to 
verbliud  (camel),  and  others  like  it,  he  could  not  pronounce  them  be- 
cause of  the  accumulated  consonants.    For  the  rest,  the  Manchoos  and 


TIMIOVSKia   ..OUBNKY    TO   PKKIN 


366 


,h»  Mongotao  have  «.,  «r...tor  MUy  .1.."  the  Chinos  in  pn>- 

"Tto^'viS.rofV"-''"  ,Oth,.Ueycn«»„Fa  ■"  *«, «»'<■' 
In  tne  evenuij,  ui  "v^,  Snnth-west  from  their  tents 

Mount  Noin,  on  *^«  ^^^^j/^^^^^^  va«t  rampart,  ab- 

rose  a  moun  am  which  presented  t^^^^^^      Khorimtu,  or  the  place  of 
Tuptly  termmated  by  a  «tccp  wcK,  ^«  ^    g^^^  f^^^  ^  lake 

arrival.    Westward  -^^JX J  ^^^^^  summit  of  Mount  Our- 
of  the  same  name,  and  southward  was  seen  ^^^^^^^^^ 

ss;°:.r  *t,tr  .natsi  of  *»  o^'^  "■°  »'*  **  "^° 
J:,  tj^i  .h.iu^h .  "H^""^-^-  TrsnTot 

tog  w.a  de*=6naing  by  totomc  «"*  4»"8^"\^^;^  „  ,h„  „„„„,»to 

„f  pine.,  f'f  «7^»„'"  ^^  S  t^  -a.  aeVon-tea  with  piece,  of 
venerated  by  the  Mongoiese.     x  ,.,  ^,  ^yotegg  suspend 

of  ,h.  latter  animals,  their  black  ~'°^»°*  *"*y  *»^:  «^t„  'S  «s 

:-r?-5:rroSS^^'r;he 

r^'^Seth^nrUT^^^^onho.^*"!^^ 

their  arrival  at  Pekm.  ,  ^.  .,^tut6  or  highest  Buddhist  priest, 

Among  other  adorers  of  the  khutukhtu,  o^  J»g"«  returning 

they  met^he  lama  o^  I^^^J^^^e't^^^^^  «^" ' 

from  the  Ourga,  where  he  had  been  to  Pay^^a  horse  and  drew  from 
As  soon  as  he  came  near  he  leaped  ^Tj^^'^Z.Xox  containing 
his  bosom  a  khadak,  in  which  was  ^^;^f-^.^^^Zl2^od  th,ml 
«nall  Chinese  cakes  which  he  presented  to  them  ^d^^^^^^  ^^ 


■■■iri— Ti  Mill      ■  *■* 


IN. 
Chinese  in  pro- 

>d  at  the  foot  of 
from  their  tents 
,  vast  rampart,  ab- 
,  or  the  place  of 
Bore,  from  a  lake 
lit  of  Mount  Our- 
caravan,  attracted 
tention  of  walking 
ilakhclii  Boon  came 
from  going,  as  the 
to  them  by  a  Cos- 
e  to  light  that  the 
ited  to  every  body, 
?ho  with  their  trsun 


urghemyl,  and  con- 
,  frequently  ascend- 
8.  In  the  afternoon 
tu,  or  the  mountain 
I  its  summit,  greatly 
•ated  with  pieces  of 
he  devotees  suspend 
on  in  the  midst  of  a 
partly  covered  with 
buffaloes  were  scat- 
singular  appearance 
lair,  greatly  terrified 
with  Mongolese  re- 
eghen-khutukhtd,  or 
me  to  see  them;  he 
1  horseback,  and  was 
ivski  and  the  Cossack 
jss  in  the  sciences,  on 

hest  Buddhist  priest, 
o.  He  was  returning 
J  to  the  deified  child. 
lOTse  and  drew  from 
paper-box  contsuning 
n  and  wished  th^m  a 
idtiikhtu  for  life.  In 
to  him  a  knife.  He 
lighly  applauded  their 
in  passing  the  Ourga. 


MONGOLKSE    SONGS. 


357 


The  khad&k  is  a  yellow  or  pearl-colored  band  of  silk,  oniamented  with 
small  figures  of  the  same  color.  The  Mongolese  and  Thibetans  suspend 
these  khadaks  before  their  idols  to  decorate  their  oft'criiigs,  and  attach 
their  prayers  to  them.  The  young  people  present  thcin  to  the  more 
aged,  as  a  proof  of  esteem  and  devotion,  and  they  are  exchanged  by  per- 
sons of  the  same  age  in  token  of  friendship.  They  place  a  large  arrow, 
enveloped  in  a  khad&k,  on  the  places  where  the  remains  of  their  rel- 
.itives  and  friends  repose.  The  khadak  umst  bo  blessed  by  a  lamii; 
it  is  only  after  this  ceremony  that  it  acquires  supernatural  virtues. 

In  the  evening  of  the  13th,  the  north-west  wind,  the  harbinger  of  a 
rainy  season,  began  to  blow  with  force.  Several  of  the  Mongolese  sen- 
tinels sang  their  national  songs.  M.  Timkovski  called  two  of  them  to 
him  and  gave  them  some  brandy,  to  induce  them  to  continue  singing. 
The  airs  of  their  songs  resemble  each  other ;  they  arc  generally  plaintive 
and  harmonious.  The  horse,  the  friend  and  companion  of  the  inhabit- 
ant of  the  steppe,  always  takes  a  prominent  place  in  these  songs.  Tim- 
kovski gives  the  following  translations  of  some  songs  which  he  heard. 
"  In  this  vast  plain  was  born  the  dun-colored  charger,  swift  as  the  arrow, 
the  ornament  of  the  herd,  the  glory  of  the  whole  tribe.  Called  to  the 
chase  by  the  ruler,  Idam  flies  to  the  forest  of  Kharatchin,  overthrows 
the  goats  and  the  stags,  and  fells  the  fierce  wild  boars  and  the  terrible 
panthers.  Every  one  admires  the  boldness  of  the  rider  and  the  fleetness 
of  his  steed." 

"  Behold  the  young  Tsyren,  armed  for  the  service  of  the  khan ;  he 
flics  to  the  Russian  frontier  to  guard  Mendzin ;  he  addresses  his  prayers 
to  the  household  divinities ;  he  takes  leave  of  his  father  and  mother : 
with  sadness  his  wife  saddles  his  black  horse.  With  a  sad  and  dreamy 
air  the  cavalier  speeds  away  toward  the  north.  The  wind  of  the  desert 
scarcely  moves  the  plumes  of  his  arrows,  and  his  elastic  bow  resounds 
upon  his  saddle.  Tsyren  rides  through  gloomy  and  unknown  forests ; 
in  the  distance  he  beholds  blue  mountains  which  are  strange  to  him ;  the 
friendly  words  of  the  Cossacks,  his  valiant  companions,  cheer  his  sad- 
dened soul ;  but  his  thoughts  ever  return  to  the  paternal  mountains." 

"  With  unquiet  soul,  with  a  spirit  bowed  under  an  unknown  weight, 
the  young  Mongol  sees  in  his  dreams  the  shades  of  warriors,  his  ances- 
tors, pass  before  his  eyes." 

"Where  is  our  Genghis-khan,  menacing  and  fearless?  His  high 
deeds  resound  in  melancholy  songs  amid  the  rocks  of  Onon  and  upon 
the  green  banks  of  Kherulun.  ♦  *  *  Who  advances  upon  the 
pleasant  road  beside  the  Shara,  singing  in  a  low  voice  some  cherished 
words  ?  Whose  is  this  bay-brown  courser  that  runs  so  swiftly  ?  What 
seek  the  eyes  of  this  brave  youth,  passing  before  the  white  tents  ?  his 
heart  knows  well  who  is  she  that  dwells  there.  Soon  will  he  cease  to 
traverse  these  mountains ;  soon  Avill  his  fiery  courser  win  for  him  a 
bride.  *  *  *  This  bay  steed,  this  steed  like  a  whirlwind,  he  is  pre- 
pared for  the  course.    *    *    *    The  abo  is  covered  with  spectators. 


I  , 


358  TIMKOVSKl'S   JOUUNEY    TO    PEKIN. 

He  i.eiuhs-  with  hi.  light  feet  he  grazes  the  pointed  flints.  Tl.e  signal 
W     r^^^^  Clouds  of  dust  cover  the  racer;  and 

;;fw  charger,  always  victorious,  arrives  first,  leaving  h.  rwals  m  the 

'"on  the.  14th  of  September,  at  the  break  of  day,  the  nun  M  « 
^ntlv  the  summits  of  the  mountains  were  concealed  m  a  thick  mist. 
iT  L^in«  oTr  the  heights  of  Mount  Nareen  they  met  a  number  oi 
Lmas  and  Mongolese  of  inferior  rank,  returning  from  theOurga;  .among 
Sr ::' a  vSthy  old  omcer,  the  commander  of  a  body  ot  wand^mg 

camels  surrounded  »>y  «»^^*^  °      .^    ^,^,  ,^i„  f,ii  incessantly,  accom- 

"^TrSi:Sr"f'S:i^!rt^^^  the  travele.  were  ..s. 
V.V  a  cro  vd?f  beigars,  who  afe  with  avidity  the  bread  and  meat  which 
thev  Ivo  them     These  miserable  creatures  came  from  the  most  remote 

inscriptions  in  the  Thibetan  language  upon  them.    These  vn  ere  unmteUi 


N. 


ARRIVAL    AT    TRK    OURGA. 


850 


ints.  Tlic  signal 
;r  the  nicer  ;  and 
\r  his  rivals  iii  tho 

rjuii  fell  ab'.ind' 
iu  a  thick  mist, 
act  a  number  of 
he  Oiirga ;  among 
ody  of  wandering 
;arricd  by  several 
ited  in  a  chariot, 
icessantly,  accora- 
gth  a  damp  snow 
fell.  Finally  they 
hey  halted  at  two 
the  Ourga,  to  an- 

ad  received  official 
lo  had  died  on  the 
as  alarming  to  M. 
t  the  continuation 
the  mission  of  this 

others,  a  Chinese 
mgarian  Calmucks, 
)eror  Khang-hi,  was 
antains  in  order  to 

his  grief  from  his 
itil  he  had  received 
ntinuc  his  route  to 
balls  were  removed 
rics ;  even  the  serv- 
ged  to  clothe  them- 
is  was  in  token  of 

travelers  were  beset 
ead  and  meat  which 
om  the  most  remote 
igth  the  caravan  set 
nd  the  road  became 
Guntoo,  the  highest 
of  the  mountain  was 
jmally ;  it  was  only 
rawn  up.  The  sum- 
the  pilgrims  who  go 
one  and  wood,  with 
riiese  were  unintelli- 


gible to  the  Russians,  and  even  to  tho  Moiigolcsc  lamas;  jirobably  tlicy 
contained  tho  mystorious  prayer  bolbro  alludoti  to.  On  the  niouiituin 
thoy  met  a  young  man  of  rank,  wlm  had  boon  at  tlu^  Ourjjja,  adorinjjf 
tho  lama,  lie  was  surrounded  by  Mongoloso  foliowi'rs,  iirmod  with 
bows  .ind  arrows ;  while  his  family  and  kindrod  an<l  a  numorous  rotiniio 
accompanied  him,  all  mounted  on  beautiful  black  horses.  This  troop 
W.1S  distinguished  by  its  lu.\ury  and  wealth ;  the  wonu-n  wore  ospocially 
remarkable  for  their  fine  fonns,  painted  complexions,  and  tor  the  splen- 
dor of  their  attire.  Their  robes  were  of  fine  blue  satin,  their  oiips  of 
sable,  their  silken  girdles  interlaced  with  silver  and  adorned  with  coriio- 
lians.  Even  their  8.tddles  were  ornamented  with  those  stones.  These 
beautiful  amazons  approached  the  strangers  without  timidity,  atid  sooniod 
willing  to  honor  them  with  their  attention.  Tho  descent  from  tho  mount- 
ain was  stoop  and  difficult.  Thoy  followed  tho  course  of  tho  Solby,  a 
small  but  rapid  stream,  which  led  through  a  narrow  defile  betwoon  two 
lorty  mountains.  Withui  five  miles  of  the  Ourga  they  passed  some  small 
temples,  and  further  on  a  very  largo  one,  of  Thibetan  architecture,  in 
the  midst  of  an  amphitheater  of  mountains.  Upon  the  highest  rocks 
around  they  read  several  characters  of  colossal  size,  carved  in  tiin  Thibet- 
an language  upon  the  white  rock.  Tlie  Mongolcse  conductors  said  thoy 
contained  the  celebrated  prayer :   Om  ma  ni  fxif,  tne  khom. 

It  was  simsct  when  they  arrived  at  tho  Ourga  and  entered  tho  Rus- 
sian court,  situated  eastward  of  tho  residence  of  theGheghen-khutukhtii, 
or  Grand  Lama.  The  Ourga  consisted  of  yourtes.  The  Mongolese  sen- 
tinels who  guarded  the  doors,  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  restrained 
the  people  who  gathered  in  crowds  to  seen  tho  Russian  travelers.  On 
the  morning  of  tho  16th,  the  Tsargouchee  Hoai  came  from  the  Mai-ma- 
chin,  or  mart  of  tho  Ourga,  to  present  the  compliments  of  the  vang  and 
the  antban  to  the  abbot  and  M.  Timkovski,  on  their  h.ippy  arrival.  lie 
was  introduced  by  the  Mongolese  conductors,  and  accompanied  by  two 
Manchoo  bitkhechis,  members  of  the  yamoun  or  tribunal  of  the  Ourga, 
and  another  public  functionary.  Hoai  and  the  two  former  were  clothed 
in  deep  blue  robes,  above  which  they  wore  the  white  robe  of  mourning, 
and  a  short  cloak  of  lambskin,  with  large  sleeves.  These  personages 
were  followed  by  a  numerous  train  of  domestics,  Thoy  conversed  with 
the  Russians  in  Mongolese  by  the  aid  of  the  interpreter,  and  after  in- 
quiring if  their  journey  had  been  pleasant,  they  asked  if  thoy  intended  to 
make  a  long  stay  at  tho  Ourga.  Timkovski  replied  that,  considering  the 
lateness  of  the  season,  and  the  liability  of  encountering  delays,  they  would 
remain  but  four  or  five  days  at  furthest.  Tho  dignitaries  kindly  replied 
by  inviting  them  to  take  the  time  needed  for  rest.  Thoy  likewise  an- 
nounced that  the  vang  and  the  ambun  would  be  ready  to  receive  the 
mission  on  the  morrow,  to  which  Timkovski  replied  that  they  would  be 
glad  to  avail  themselves  of  this  permission,  and  stated  further  that  he  was 
authorized  by  the  governor  of  Irkoutsk  to  tender  his  rospoots  in  coimoc- 
tion  with  some  presents,  to  the  authorities  of  the  Ourga,    The  interview 


860 


TIMKOVSKI'S    JOUBNKY    TO    PEKIN. 


WW  continncd  with  many  civilities,  and  after  their  departure  other  vwitors 
were  presented,  when  at  length  Khart8aj,'!U,  a  kinsman  of  the  vang,  entered 
to  announce  that  ho  had  been  cominissioned  to  aid  them  m  paasmg  the  time 
pleasantly,  which  might  otherwise  seem  tedious  among  Btrangers.  He 
informed  them,  atuong  other  things,  that  when  inteUigence  of  the  om- 
peror's  death  was  received,  the  vang  had  at  first  intended  to  suspend 
their  i.>nrney,and  oven  send  them  hack  to  Kiakhta ;  but,  considermg 
the  fatigues  they  had  already  undergone,  and  the  expense  their  govom- 
ment  had  incurred,  ho  had  concluded,  on  his  own  responsibility,  to  alow 
them  to  proceed.  They  learned,  however,  from  Idam,  that  the  vang  had 
sent  a  courier  to  Pekin,  to  know  what  he  should  do,  and  that  they  wou  d 
be  obH.red  to  remain  at  the  Ourga  until  the  decision  of  the  court  should 
arrive."  Such  were  the  real  motives  of  the  repeated  invitations  they  re- 
ceived to  be  at  their  case  in  Ourga. 

Kartsa"ai  left  them  an  instant,  then  returned  with  Idam  and  Uemit 
(the  latterone  of  the  uispectors  appointed  for  the  mission  durmgits 
stay),  and  inquired  what  were  the  i)resent3  which  they  had  brought. 
Timkcvski  replied  that  he  did  not  know,  and  expressed  the  desire  of 
prescntiu-  these  gifts  himself  to  the  vang  and  the  araban.  The  Mongo- 
lese  approved  of  his  intention.  They  afterward  questioned  him  with  in- 
terest concernmg  the  countries  bordering  on  Russia;  they  wished  to 
know  if  the  terrible  war  with  the  French  was  te^mmated  ;  if  l-ngland 
was  very  far  from  Russia.  ,,    ,  •  t     . 

On  the  17th,  the  mission  visited  the  vang  and  the  amban,  the  liighest 
dicrnitaries  of  the  Ourga.  Twelve  Cossacks  mounted  on  Mongolese  horses, 
and  advancing  two  by  two,  opened  the  procession;  M.  Tirakovski  fol- 
lowed on  horseback,  with  the  inspector  of  baggage  and  the  mterpreter 
on  either  side;  next  came  the  carriages  of  the  clergy,  accompanied  by 
the  students  and  otlier  priests ;  a  centurion,  followed  by  two  Cossacks, 
closed  the  march.    The  pubUc  fimctionariea  of  the  Ourga  walked  before 
the  procession,  and  at  the  sides  the  conductors  and  other  employees  with 
their  suite     The  difference  in  features  and  costume  between  the  Mongo- 
lese and  the  Russians,  and  even  the  dissimilarity  of  their  horses,  gave  to 
this  train  a  singular  appearance,  which  was  not  without  interest :  on  one 
hand  the  white  plumes  of  the  Cossacks  waving  m  the  air,  their  glazed 
belts,  and  the  blades  of  their  sabers  glittering  in  the  sun ;  on  the  o  her, 
the  bright  colored  satin  robes  of  the  Mongolese,  and  the  ribbons  of  their 
caps  flowing  in  the  wind.    They  alighted  at  the  dweUing  of  the  vang,  a 
modest  wooden  structure  in  the  Chinese  style,  and  entered  the  court 
The  entrancewasprotectedbytwentyoftbe  prince's  body  guard,  clothed 

in  white  robes ;  they  were  without  belts,  and  held  then-  swords  m  their 

^^  Hoai  came  to  meet  them,  and  placing  himself  on  the  left  (the  place 
of  honor  in  China),  conducted  the  abbot;  Timkovski  followed,  accom- 
panied by  the  bitkheshi ;  Tsing,  and  the  rest  of  the  company  came  after 
them.    After  traversing  a  court,  they  passed  into  a  kind  of  corridor, 


I 


N. 

uro  other  visitors 
the  vang,  entt-red 
I  pOMHiug  the  timo 
;  struiigorH.  lie 
;encc  of  tlie  jm- 
ndvd  to  suspend 
but,  considering 
ise  their  govoru- 
nsibility,  to  allow 
liiut  the  voiig  had 
1  that  they  would 
the  court  should 
[vitatioDB  they  re- 

Idam  and  Demit 
iiission  during  its 
ley  had  brought, 
ssed  the  desire  of 
lan.  The  Mongo- 
oned  him  with  in- 
they  wished  to 
ated ;  if  England 

imban,  the  highest 
Mongolese  horses, 
M.  Timkovski  fol- 
[id  the  interpreter 
y,  accompanied  by 
I  by  two  Cossacks, 
irga  walked  before 
ler  employees  with 
itween  the  Mongo- 
eir  horses,  gave  to 
it  interest :  on  one 
le  air,  their  glazed 
sun ;  on  the  other, 
he  ribbons  of  their 
ling  of  the  vaug,  a 
entered  the  court, 
ody  guard,  clothed 
leii'  Bwords  in  their 

the  left  (the  place 

1  followed,  ficcom- 

ompany  came  after 

kind  of  corridor, 


VISIT   TO    THE    VANG    AND    THE    AMBAN. 


861 


very  narrow,  which  was  the  hall  of  reception.  One  side  of  the  apart- 
ment W!M  taken  up  with  a  large  window,  trimmed  with  white  paper,  in 
the  middle  of  which  was  a  large  glass  plate.  Near  the  window  the  vang 
and  the  amban  were  sitting  cross-legged  upon  a  common  sofa.  They 
wore  short  clonks,  white,  and  trimmed  above  with  lambskin.  Upon  a 
small  table  near  the  window  were  some  English  clocks,  which  were  not 
wound  up.  After  the  ceremonies  of  introduction,  M.  Timkovski,  through 
the  interpreter,  addressed  the  governors  of  Southern  Mongolia,  then  the 
boxes  contauung  the  presents  were  brought  in,  and,  according  to  custom, 
placed  before  the  vang  and  the  amban ;  the  former  thus  expressed  his 
thanks :  "Tho  custom  of  exchangmggitls  between  neighbors  and  friends 
ia  very  ancient  among  us ;  therefore,  when  you  return  to  your  comitry, 
we  will  also  give  you  some  presents  for  the  governor  of  Irkoutsk."  lie 
then  caused  them  to  be  seated  before  him,  and  calling  the  other  jtersons 
of  the  mission  to  ai)proach  him,  he  addressed  them  successively  as  fol- 
lows :  "  These  are  the  khara-lamas  (black  priests,  tho  monks)  ;  these  are 
the  students.  lie  advised  the  latter  to  be  diligent  to  overcome  all  ob- 
stacles and  fulfill  tho  wishes  of  their  government ;  to  conduct  themselves 
as  people  well-born,  respectable,  and  worthy  to  do  honor  to  their  coun- 
try." Each  one  was  then  served  with  a  cup  of  tea  with  sugar.  After- 
ward, the  vang  complimented  tho  abbot,  adding  that  he  still  remembered 
having  seen  him  among  the  young  students  on  the  way  to  Pekin.  When 
he  had  thus  severally  greeted  and  addressed  the  travelers,  M.  Timkovski 
and  the  abbot  proffered  him  and  tho  amban  some  presents  of  llussian 
manufactUi'S,  which  he  politely  accepted,  and  appeared  much  pleased 
with  them. 

An  hour  after  their  return  the  vang  sent  to  the  abbot  and  Timkovski 
seventeen  trays  of  sweetmeats,  three  ilagons  of  Chinese  wine,  called 
chaoussifiy  made  of  rice,  six  pounds  of  black  tea,  and  to  each  two  pieces 
of  silk  stuff.  The  other  members  of  the  mission  received  each  one  piece 
of  the  same  stuff.  Each  present  bore  his  address.  The  Cossacks  re- 
ceived two  boxes  of  tea  in  cakes,  containing  thirty-six  cakes  in  each. 
The  vang  was  a  Mongolese  piince,  descended  from  Genghis-khan,  and 
was  a  near  relative  of  the  late  Emperor  Kia-khing,  by  his  wife.  He  was 
amiable  and  intelligent,  polished  in  his  manners,  and  appeared  to  be  a 
lover  of  tho  arts  and  sciences,  and  literature.  Having  lived  a  long  time 
at  the  court  of  Pekin,  he  had  often  held  intercourse  with  Europeans, 
and  had  acquired  a  decided  predilection  for  every  thing  European. 
The  amban  was  a  subordinate  officer,  sent  out  from  Pekin  to  assist  the 
vang  during  a  term  of  three  years. 

On  the  18th  the  mission  visited  the  Mai-ma-chin,  or  mercantile  quar- 
ter, and  the  Tsargoochee ;  the  clergy  riding  in  carriages,  the  rest  on 
horseback.  On  their  arrival  the  crowd  pressed  around  them  in  spite  of 
the  cries  of  two  civil  officers,  who,  in  conformity  with  the  custom  in 
China,  drove  back  the  intruders  with  heavy  blows  of  the  whip.  They 
dined  with  tho  Tsargoochee,  who  received  them  with  great  civility,  and 


' 

5 


862 


TIMKOVSKTS    JOUHNEY    TO    PKKIN. 


oiitcrtaincl  ihciii  kiiuUy.  In  the  course  of  conversation  they  remarked 
tliiit  tliey  wislied  to  preparo  for  their  dei.arture  in  four  (hiys,  upon  wluch 
ho  ct>uns(lea  them  anew  to  rest  awhile,  aa.linjr  tliat  the  weather  was 
cold  an.l  rainy,  and  tluit  by  the  rules  of  Chinese  astrology  he  hud  se- 
leited  a  propitious  day  for  their  departure,  concerning  which  he  would 
speak  to  the  governors  of  the  Ourga.  They  thanked  him  for  this  proof 
of  his  good  intentions  toward  them. 

On  their  return  they  saw  a  number  of  tents,  newly  erected;  these 
belonged  to  some  Mong«)leH«',  Avho  were  going  to  worship  the  new  khu- 
tiikhtii,  or  lama,  and  more  were  expected  to  arrive.  An  idea  ot  tho 
festival  celebrated  by  the  Mongolese  on  the  manifestation  of  the  new 
(Jheglu-n-khiitiikhtu,  may  bo  obtained  from  tho  following  details,  given 
by  Pallas,  of  the  one  which  took  place  in  1729,  in  the  ancient  Ourga 
situated  on  the  Iben,  a  tributary  of  the  Orkhon : 

On  the  22d  of  June,  at  the  second  hour  of  tho  day,  that  is,  at  sun- 
rise, the  chief  temple  of  the  Ourga  was  decorated  for  the  festival.     Op- 
i)osite  the  entrance  was  placed  tho  idol  bourkhan  ayucha  ;  to  the  left  a 
thnme,  adorned  with  precious  stones  and  rich  stuffs,  had  been  erected, 
and  wooden  seats  had  been  arranged  in  tho  temple  for  the  lamas.    The 
sister  of  the  deceased  khutukhtii,  three  Mongolese  khans,  an  amban  who 
wore  a  peacock  feather  in  his  cap,  and  was  sent  from  Pekin  by  tho  Em- 
peror  Ymig-tsing,  the  father  of  the  new  khiitukhth,  tho  three  khans  of 
the  Khalkhas,  and  several  other  Mongolese  of  distuiction,  were  present 
at  the  festival.    Tlio  number  of  lamas  amounted  to  nearly  twenty-six 
thousand,  and  of  the  people,  men,  women  and  children,  to  more  than 
one  hundred  thousand.    When  the  most  important  personages  had  en- 
tered tho  temple,  two  hundred  hmces  with  gilded  points  and  adorned 
with  bronze  figures  of  wild  boasts,  were  placed  in  two  rows  before  the 
door.    At  the  same  time  a  line  of  two  hundred  Mongolese  was  formed, 
bearing  drums  and  large  copper  trumpets.    When  all  was  ready,  six 
lamas  were  seen  to  come  out  from  the  temple,  bearing  upon  a  chair  the 
Bister  of  the  deceased  khiitiikhtu  ;  she  waa  Mowed  by  the  khans,  the 
vangs,  and  all  the  dignitaries,  very  richly  clothed.    The  cortege  moved 
in  silence  to  the  tent  of  the  new  khiitiikhtu,  who  was  living  with  his 
father,  Darkhan-chin  Chan-vang,  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  the  tem- 
ple   An  hour  afterward  the  regenerated  khiitiikhtii  appeared,  conducted 
by  the  prhicipal  Mongolese  nobles  and  the  oldest  lamas,  who  held  him 
by  the  hands  and  under  the  arms.    They  seated  him  on  a  horse  magnif- 
icently harnessed :  tho  bridle  was  held  on  one  side  by  a  khubilgan,  or 
priest  of  high  rank,  and  on  the  other  by  the  ta-lama  or  semor  lama. 
When  tho  klmtiikhtu  came  out  of  the  tent,  the  lamas  began  to  smg 
hymns  in  his  honor,  accompanied  by  the  sound  of  instruments.    Then 
the  nobles  and  tho  people  bowed  down  very  low,  and  raised  their  hands 
toward  heaven.    Tho  train  of  the  khiitiikhtii  advanced  slowly  toward  the 
temple;  the  sister  of  the  deceased  kliutukhtu,  whom  the  newly  chosen 
also  called  his  sister,  foUowcd  him  in  a  sedan  chair.    Then  came  the 


IN. 

on  they  rciimikcd 
(lays,  upon  which 
the  weiithtT  was 

Irolo^jy  he  had  sc- 
which  \ni  would 

him  for  this  proof 

i-ly  croftcd ;  these 
rHhij)  the  new  khii- 
An  idea  of  tho 
tation  of  the  new 
rting  details,  given 
tho  ancient  Ourga 

ay,  that  is,  at  sun- 
"  the  festival.  Op- 
icha  ;  to  the  left  a 
had  been  erected, 
»r  the  lamas.  The 
ans,  an  amban  who 
.  Pekin  by  the  Em- 
the  three  khans  of 
ction,  were  present 

0  nearly  twenty-six 
ircn,  to  more  than 

personages  had  en- 
joints  and  adorned 
;wo  rows  before  the 
igolese  was  formed, 
all  was  ready,  six 
ng  upon  a  chair  the 
d  by  the  khans,  the 
rhe  cortege  moved 
vas  living  with  his 
mile  from  the  tem- 
ippeared,  conducted 
amas,  who  held  him 

1  on  a  horse  magnif- 
by  a  khubilgan,  or 

lama  or  senior  lama, 
mas  began  to  sing 
instruments.  Then 
d  raised  their  hands 
id  slowly  toward  the 
n  the  newly  chosen 
lir.    Then  came  the 


INSTALLATION    OF    A    UGNQOLESE    LAMA. 


S63 


most  aged  lama,  Xomecii-khan,  the  C'hitu'Hc  amban,  all  the  lamas,  the 
vang,  and  the  other  Congolese  of  distinction.  The  peu])l(«  Ibllowed  on 
both  sides. 

Tho  iiiclosure  before  the  temple  contained  six  tents,  ornamented  on 
the  top  with  gilded  points  from  which  Iiung  rich  Htutfs  of  ditUrent  colors. 
The  cortege  stopped  at  tho  entrance  ;  the  lamas  litled  the  khutiikhtii 
from  his  horse  with  tokens  of  the  most  profound  reverence,  and  took 
him  into  the  inclosure  by  the  southern  gate.  After  having  remained 
there  half  an  hour,  the  most  aged  lamas  led  him  by  the  hand  into  the 
tem))le,  where  his  sister  and  all  the  dignitaries  likewise  entered.  The 
deputy  of  the  dalay-lama,  Nomeen-khan,  assisted  by  the  persons  of  his 
suite,  seated  him  on  the  throne,  after  which  the  amban  annoimced  to  the 
people  the  emperor's  order  that  tho  khiitiikhtii  should  receive  the  honors 
due  to  his  rank.  Then  tho  whole  assemblage  j)rostrated  themselves 
three  times  upon  the  ground  ;  after  which  they  placed  on  a  table  before 
him  several  khonkhos,  or  small  silver  bells,  which  the  lamas  make  use  of 
during  the  religious  ceremonies.  Care  had  been  taken  to  keep  back  the 
bell  which  the  khiitukhtu  had  used  before  his  regeneration,  in  order  to 
see  whether  he  would  perceive  that  it  was  not  among  them.  The  khu- 
tiikhlu,  after  having  cast  his  eyes  over  the  bells,  said  to  the  lama  who 
was  next  to  him :  "  Why  have  you  not  brought  mo  my  own  bell  ?" 
These  words  being  heard,  tho  khans,  tho  vangs,  the  lamas,  and  all  tho 
people,  cried  out:  "He  is  the  true  head  of  our  religion;  Tie  is  our  kliii- 
tukhtu !" 

On  the  23d  of  June,  one  hour  after  -  midnight,  the  amban  and  the 
other  nobles  returned  to  the  temple,  around  which  tho  people  were  al- 
ready assembled.  At  the  third  hour  (sunrise),  the  khiitukhtii  was  con- 
ducted thither  by  the  most  aged  lamas  and  seated  upon  his  throne.  The 
amban  offered  him  tho  presents  of  the  emperor,  which  consisted  of  a 
plate  of  gold,  weighing  about  twenty-eight  pounds,  in  tho  middle  of 
which  eight  precious  stones  were  set.  On  the  plate  wore  placed  some 
khadaks,  worth  two  thousand  rubles,  and  eighty-one  pieces  of  gold  and 
silver  cloth.  A  note  written  upon  each  indicated  that  the  manufacture 
had  cost  six  hundred  rubles.  Finally,  the  amban  presented  eighty-one 
trays  loaded  wth  sweetmeats,  and  various  other  things.  While  offering 
these  things  he  showed  the  most  profound  tokens  of  reverence  to  the 
khutiikhtu,  and  accompanied  them  with  felicitations  in  the  name  of  his 
sovereign.  He  concluded  by  soliciting  tho  benediction  of  the  khutukhtu, 
in  the  name  of  the  emperor,  and  addressed  him  with  these  words : 
"  Great  pontiff,  thou  who  art  incorruptible  as  gold,  and  whose  splendor 
equals  the  sparkHng  of  diamonds,  protect  the  empire  as  t'lou  didst  in 
the  tune  of  my  father,  and  shed  thy  grace  and  thy  protection  over  my 
reign," 

The  khutukhtu  accepted  the  presents  of  the  emperor  and  gave  him 
his  benediction  by  placing  his  hands  upon  the  head  of  the  amban  ;  after- 
ward he  gave  his  blessing  to  the  lamas  and  the  people ;  each  one,  pene- 


864 


TIMKOVSKI'S    JOURNEY    TO    PEKIN. 


! 

! 


trated  l)y  the  consoling  idea  of  receiving  it  from  the  deity  himself,  ad- 
vanoed  one  after  the  other,  and  manifested  a  reverence,  fervor,  and  awe, 
which  were  most  exemplary. 

In  the  afternoon  four  large  tents  and  an  infinite  number  of  small  ones 
were  erected  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  temple,  inclosing  a  krge 
space  for  the  exercise  of  wrestling.    The  large  tents  were  occupied  by 
the  khans  and  other  nobles ;  the  combatants  numbered  two  hundred  and 
sixty-eight  on  each  side,  and  the  struggle  continued  until  evening;  the 
names  of  the  victors  were  proclaimed,  and  the  vanquished  were  obliged 
to  leave  the  inclosure.     In  the  end  there  remained  but  thirty-five  vie 
tors.    The  wrestling  recommenced  on  the  27th.    The  weather  was  ex- 
tremely warm  and  the  combatants  were  exhausted  with  fatigue.    Then 
the  khans  prayed  the  lamas  to  cause  it  to  rain.     In  half  an  hour  the  sky 
became  overcast,  and  a  few  drops  of  rain  fell.     The  faithful  attributed 
this  to  the  power  of  the  lamas,  although  the  heat  was  but  little  abated 
thereby.    The  wrestling  was  continued  every  day  until  the  3d  of  July, 
when  the  khans  and  the  other  nobles,  accompanied  by  the  people,  re- 
paired with  the  thirty-five  victors  to  the  district  of  Ourakhoo,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Orkhon,  thirty-five  miles  distant. 

On  the  5th  of  July  there  was  a  horse-race  on  the  banks  of  the  Or- 
khon, which  passed  over  a  distance  of  twelve  miles.    There  were  eleven 
hundred  and  ten  horses  on  the  course  at  one  time^  of  which  one  hundred 
were  declared  the  best.    They  received  distinguished  names,  and  their 
masters  obtained  presents  and  some  privileges.     Next  day  there  was  at 
the  same  place  a  race  of  sixteen  hundred  and  twenty-seven  horses,  six 
years  old.    The  goal  was  but  ten  miles  distant.    The  owners  of  the 
hundred  which  first  arrived  in  like  manner  received  presents.     On  the 
Tth  a  third  race  took  place  between  nine  hundred  and  ninety-five  horses, 
four  years  old.    They  had  to  pass  over  a  space  of  eight  miles.    The 
owners  of  the  first  hundred  were  likewise  rewarded.    These  three  thou- 
sand seven  hundred  and  thirty-two  horses  all  belonged  to  Mongolese  of 
the  tribe  of  Khalklias.    On  the  same  day,  after  the  race,  the  thirty-five 
victors  of  the  wrestling-match  divided  into  two  parties  and  contended 
with  each  other.    The  seven  best  among  these  were  conducted  back  to 

the  Ourga. 

During  these  contests  three  hundred  archers  shot  with  arrows  at  a 
target  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  distant.  Each  one  shot  four  times  in 
succession ;  twenty-five  who  hit  the  mark  every  time,  or  even  three 
times  only,  were  declared  excellent  archers.  The  victors  had  a  contest 
among  themselves  next  morning.  On  the  8th  they  erected,  near  the 
dwelling  of  the  khutukhtii,  a  richly-d-  -orated  tent,  into  which  he  was 
conducted  by  the  hand.  They  then  brought  in  several  idols  and  placed 
before  hirn,  and  burned  perfumes  in  silver  censers.  He  was  seated  on 
his  throne  and  the  others  took  their  seats  around,  when  tea  was  served. 
After  the  khutukhtu  had  tasted  it,  it  was  poured  out  in  silver  cups  to 
the  rest ;  all  who  had  no  cups  received  it  in  the  hollow  of  the  hand. 


[N. 

Jeity  himself,  ad- 
fervor,  and  awe, 

iber  of  small  ones 
inclosing  a  'arge 
krerc  occupied  by 
two  hundred  and 
ntil  evening;  the 
hed  were  obliged 
it  thirty-five  vic- 
j  weather  was  ex- 
th  fatigue.    Then 
f  an  hour  the  sky 
faithful  attributed 
but  little  abated 
I  the  3d  of  July, 
by  the  people,  re- 
Ourakhoo,  on  the 

banks  of  the  Or- 
rhere  were  eleven 
trhich  one  hundred 
[  names,  and  their 
,  day  there  was  at 
y-seven  horses,  six 
'he  owners  of  the 
presents.  On  the 
ninety-five  horses, 
eight  miles.    The 

These  three  thou- 
i  to  Mongolese  of 
ace,  the  thirty-five 
ties  and  contended 
conducted  back  to 

t  with  arrows  at  a 
shot  four  times  in 
me,  or  even  three 
ctors  had  a  contest 
T  erected,  near  the 
into  which  he  was 
al  idols  and  placed 
He  was  seated  on 
len  tea  was  served, 
t  in  silver  cups  to 
ollow  of  the  hand. 


THE    LAMA    XOT    TO    BE    SEEN. 


866 


Each  one  drank  it  with  intense  satisfaction,  as  holy  water,  actually  re- 
ceived from  the  hands  of  the  khutukhtu.  Afterward  the  seven  wrestlers 
recommenced  their  combat,  which  lasted  from  ten  in  the  morning  until 
midnight.  A  Mongolese,  named  Bahay  Ikaidzjxn  (the  great  solid  ele- 
phant), of  the  troop  of  the  vang  Tsetden,  was  the  final  victor.  The 
wrestling  ended,  the  khutukhtu  was  conducted  back  to  his  habitation 
with  the  same  ceremonies  by  which  he  had  been  taken  to  the  tent ;  then 
every  one  retired  to  his  home. 

On  the  11th  of  July,  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  khans  ami 
the  other  nobles  assembled  in  the  dwelling  of  the  khutukhtu  and  delib- 
erated until  eveinng  upon  the  names  to  be  given  to  the  victors  in  archery 
and  wrestling,  names  destined  to  make  them  known  to  the  nation  and 
to  preserve  their  glory  for  posterity.  The  name  of  Lion  was  unani- 
mously given  to  the  first  wrestler,  who  already  bore  that  oi  great  solid 
elephant ;  the  others  in  like  manner  received,  in  order,  the  names  of 
courageous  animals  or  birds.  The  first  Avrestler  received  a  gun,  a  coat 
of  mail,  fifteen  oxen  and  cows,  fifteen  horses,  a  hundred  sheep,  a  camel, 
a  thousand  bricks  of  tea,  some  pieces  of  satin,  and  several  skins  of  foxes 
and  otters.  The  others  had  gifts  proportioned  to  their  strength  and 
agility.  Similar  prizes  were  distributed  among  the  archers;  the  last 
Avrestler  and  the  last  archer  each  received  two  cows  and  two  sheep. 
The  festival  terminated  on  the  12th  of  July. 


M.  Timkovski  applied  to  be  presented  to  the  khutukhtu,  but  was  i.i- 
forraed  through  his  messengers  by  the  vang  that  the  pontiff  was  too 
much  fatigued  by  the  long  journey  he  had  just  completed,  during  which 
he  had  given  his  benediction  to  more  than  a  hundred  thousand  of  the 
faithful.  At  the  same  time  Timkovski  requested  that  the  mission  be 
furnished  with  four  yourtes,  and  with  wood  and  water,  at  each  place  of 
encampment  between  the  Ourga  and  Khalgan  ;  but  the  request  was  not 
granted.  When  Idam  came  in  afterward  he  explained  that  the  vang 
had  neither  the  power  nor  the  right  to  order  that  the  mission  bo  fur- 
nished with  yourtes,  first,  because  they  traveled  by  a  route  upon  which 
there  were  no  fixed  stations ;  secondly,  because  his  authority  as  gov- 
ernor-general of  Khalkha  did  not  extend  beyond  the  territory  bordering 
on  the  Russian  frontier.  Idam  assured  them,  however,  that  they  should 
not  be  in  want  of  yourtes  on  the  route.  As  to  the  interview  with  the 
Ghegen-khutukhtu,  he  swd  it  was  not  forbidden  to  strangers,  but  they 
were  aware  he  was  only  a  child  without  experience,  who  knew  only  his 
native  tongue;  how  then  would  they  render  their  homage  to  him? 
Besides,  this  divine  child,  Ukc  all  the  people,  was  in  mourning  for  the 
emperor.  Next  year,  on  their  return,  they  might  see  him ;  he  was  now 
occupied  in  receiving  the  faithful,  and  the  offerings  which  they  brought. 
On  the  20th,  the  travelers  of  the  mission  went  to  see  the  city,  mounted 
on  Mongolese  horses,  and  accompanied  by  their  friends  of  the  place.  They 


866 


TIMKOVSKI'S    JOURNEY    TO    PEKIN. 


first,  visited  the  temple  and  the  habitation  of  the  khiitukhu.  The  inclosure 
Avas  so  high  that  it  prevented  them  from  seeing  the  structure  of  the 
buildings.  The  temples  were  built  in  a  north  and  south  direction,  and 
the  roofs  were  painted  green  ;  one  of  them  was  surrounded  by  gilded 
palissades.  At  some  distance  from  the  temples  was  a  large  wooden  edi- 
fice, the  school  in  which  the  lamas  learn  to  read  Thibetan,  and  to  play 
upon  the  instruments  employed  in  their  religious  music.  These  temples 
;ui<l  other  public  edifices  arc  on  a  large  square.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
city  live  in  yourtes,  some  of  which  are  shaded  by  willow-treea.  The 
streets  arc  so  narrow  that  two  men  on  horseback  can  scarcely  pass  each 
other.  On  the  24th,  the  conductors  came  to  them  from  the  yamoun,  or 
tribunal,  with  the  information  that  the  vang,  on  consideration  that  they 
had  entered  the  Celestial  Empire  in  virtue  of  an  inviolable  treaty,  made 
under  the  reigning  dynasty,  had  resolved  to  let  them  continue  their  jour- 
ney, and  that  in  case  he  should  receive  from  Pekin  any  ordv  rn  concerning 
them,  he  would  make  them  known  to  them  on  their  route.  This  intelli- 
gence was  received  with  great  joy ;  M.  Timkovski  immediately  gave 
ordei-s  that  all  preparations  should  be  made  for  setting  out  on  the 
morrow. 

From  Kiakhta  to  the  Ourga  they  seemed  to  be  still  in  the  provinces 
bordering  on  the  Russian  frontier,  from  the  great  similarity  in  the  scene- 
ry and  productions,  but  as  soon  as  tht  yhad  passfled  the  Tola,  they  found 
themselves  on  a  different  soil.  They  here  drank  a  glass  of  fresh  water,  the 
last  that  was  to  moisten  their  lips  in  the  vast  space  to  be  tr.aversed  before 
reaching  the  Great  Wall  of  China.  They  were  now  in  the  arid  and  gloomy 
deserts  of  Mongolia.  They  left  the  Tola  by  a  valley  ascending  between 
high  mountains,  from  which  they  emerged  on  an  elevated  position  com- 
manding the  view  of  an  immense  plain,  covered  Avith  stones.  To  the 
left,  rose  the  naked  rocks  which  border  on  the  Tola.  The  Mongolese 
believe  that  one  of  the  caverns  of  these  mountains  contains  immense 
treasures  of  gold  and  silver,  which  the  robbers  concealed  there  in  former 
times ;  but  that  frightful  precipices  and  noxious  vapors  effectually  cut  off 
all  approach.  As  they  advanced,  the  moimtains  became  lower  and  less 
diflicult;  they  no  longer  saw  deep  precipices  or  lofty  heights;  every 
thing  indicated  the  vicinity  of  the  plain  of  Gobi,  the  most  extensive  of 
Middle  Asia. 

In  the  evening  of  October  1st,  Idam  visited  them  at  their  tent,  and 
in  the  covirso  of  conversation  related  some  events  of  the  life  of  Khung- 
ming,  a  famous  Chinese  general.  The  kingdom  of  Chu  being  invaded  by 
the  enemy,  Khung-ming  erected  a  statue  of  stone,  which  held  a  sword 
in  one  hand,  and  in  the  other  a  book  with  poisoned  leaves.  The  hostUe 
general,  on  arriving  at  the  statue,  went  to  it  and  began  to  read  the  book, 
which  he  found  interesting.  As  he  frequently  touched  his  fingers  to  his 
mouth,  to  moisten  them  with  saliva  in  order  to  turn  the  leaves  more 
easily,  he  soon  felt  the  effects  of  the  poison.  When  he  wished  to  go 
away  he  could  not,  his  coat  of  mail  being  attracted  by  the  pedestal,  which 


SIN. 

lu.    The  inclosurc 

c  structure  of  the 

uth  direction,  and 

rounded  by  gilded 

large  wooden  edi- 

ibetan,  and  to  play 

c.     These  temples 

inhabitants  of  the 

willow-treea.    The 

scarcely  pass  each 

om  the  yamoun,  or 

deration  that  they 

olablo  treaty,  made 

continue  their  jour- 

Y  ordi  rs  concerning 

route.     This  intelli- 

immediately  gave 

ietting  out  on  the 

till  in  the  provinces 
lilarity  in  the  scone- 
he  Tola,  they  found 
ss  of  fresh  water,  the 
be  traversed  before 
the  arid  and  gloomy 
•  ascending  between 
ivated  position  com- 
ith  stones.  To  the 
a.  The  Mongolese 
)  contains  immense 
aled  there  in  former 
)rs  effectually  cut  oflP 
;ame  lower  and  less 
ofty  heights;  every 
B  most  extensive  of 

m  at  their  tent,  and 
r  the  life  of  Khung- 
lu  being  invaded  by 
which  held  a  sword 
leaves.  The  hostile 
an  to  read  the  book, 
ed  his  fingers  to  his 
irn  the  leaves  more 
en  ho  wished  to  go 
f  the  pedestal,  which 


ANCIENT    MONGOLIAN    RUINS. 


367 


was  of  loadstone.  Enraged  at  his  embarrassing  situation,  lie  laid  hold  of 
the  sword  which  the  statue  held  in  the  other  hand,  and  struck  it.  This 
act  was  still  more  disastrous  to  him  ;  the  blow  struck  out  sparks,  which 
set  fire  to  some  combustible  matter  in  the  statue,  and  the  explosion  killed 
him.    His  affrighted  army  was  forced  to  retreat. 

On  one  occasion,  Khung-ming  was  in  front  of  the  enemy,  from  whom 
a  river  separated  him.  His  camp  being  up  the  stream,  he  sent  down  in 
the  night,  in  boats,  some  straw  mannikins  of  natural  size,  each  of  ^^'lli(■h 
held  a  kindled  match  in  his  hand.  The  boats  were  borne  by  the  curnnt 
to  the  camp  of  the  enemy,  who,  seeing  thom  filled  with  armed  soldiers, 
made  such  haste  to  attack  them  with  arrows,  that  they  soon  emi)ti('(l 
their  quivers.  Khung-ming,  who  had  foreseen  this,  passed  the  river  uiid 
gained  a  complete  victory  over  the  troops  which  no  longer  expected  an 
attack. 

October  3d,  at  three  o'clock,  they  reached  the  station  of  Boro  khujir, 
situated  among  narrow  defiles  near  Mount  Darchan.  The  weather  being 
fine,  M.  Timkovski  determined  to  visit  this  mountain,  which  is  associated, 
by  the  Mongolese,  with  the  memory  of  Genghis  Khan.  He  set  out  at 
six  o'clock,  accompanied  by  monk  Israel  and  a  Cossack  officer.  On  leav- 
ing the  station,  they  followed  with  much  difficulty  some  ravines  formed 
by  the  rains,  and  then  passed  over  immense  beds  of  granite  blocks  to  the 
summit.  This  mountain  extends  from  north  to  south,  and  its  lofty  back 
is  composed  of  steep  rocks  of  red  fjranite,  among  which  grow  the  altagan 
(robinia  pygmaa)  and  other  shrubs.  Upon  its  southern  height,  to  the 
foot  of  which  they  had  ascended,  stood  an  abo  of  stones,  built  by  the 
Mongolese,  who  repair  thither  every  summer  to  celebrate  the  memory 
of"  Genghis  Khan.  From  this  point  the  view  was  very  extensive ;  to 
the  eastward  were  eight  salt  lakes,  and  beyond  them  rose  the  blue 
mountains  of  Kherrulun ;  on  the  west,  was  an  immense  extent  of  coun- 
try, covered  with  pointed  elevations. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  1 0th,  M.  Timkovski  visited  some  ruins  of 
ancient  Mongolian  architecture,  near  the  station  of  Tsulghetoo,  where 
they  had  encamped  for  the  night.  Having  gone  two  miles  across  a 
plain  opening  to  the  east  they  reached  a  mountain  whose  declivity,  for 
the  space  of  a  mile  and  a  half,  was  covered  with  the  ruins  of  stone 
edifices.  Idam  informed  them  that  three  hundred  years  ago  or  more,  a 
Mongolese  Taidzi,  or  descendant  of  princes,  named  Sainkhung  (beautiful 
swan),  inhabited  these  places.  These  remains  had  been  his  temples. 
Several  altars  and  other  edifices  of  colossal  dimensions,  indicated  the 
wealth  and  magnificence  of  that  prince.  These  crumbling  structures 
■were  covered  with  moss  and  weeds ;  the  foundations  were  granite,  the 
walls  of  sun-dried  bricks,  cemented  with  cl:iy  mixed  with  gravel,  instead 
of  lime.  The  changes  of  heat  and  moisture  had  worn  away  the  clay 
while  the  gravel  remained.  One  building,  of  a  circular  form,  was  or- 
namented with  a  stone  cornice,  composed  of  three  rows.  In  a  large 
temple,  and  in  other  edifices  were  vaulted  niches,  probably  destined  for 


868 


TIMKOVSKTS   JOURNEY    TO    PBKIN. 


tho  reception  of  oflFerings.     lu  the  court,  which  was  paved  with  stone, 
hey  Lw  broken  tUc«  ol"  a  green  color,  and  a  stony^t.    These  rums 
once  inhabited  by  some  descendant   of  Genghis  Khan,  now   served 
as  -i  retreat  for  herds  of  cattle  ;  the  subjugated  Mongolese  rare  y  visit 
these  places,  which  remind  them  of  their  ancient  splendor  and  .nde- 

pendence.^  15th  of  October  they  encamped  at  Soume,  that  is  to  say,  the 
Temple  on  the  Mountain  of  Serpents.    To  the  left  of  the  station  was  a 
temple  upon  the  declivity  of  the  Abourga  (Serpent).     It  is  said  that 
these  reptiles  were  formerly  found  there,  but  they  saw  none.     They 
"ted  the  temple  which,  according  to  the  rules  of  Thibetan  architect- 
ure fronted  the  south.     The  nephew  of  Idam,  who  was  our  guide,  sent 
for  the  warden,  who  conducted  them  by  the  principal  entrance  into  the 
•Libule,  wher'e  they  saw  four  wooden  idols  of  colossal  s.e.    Two  were 
covered  with  armor,  like  warriors;  the  first  was  red,  and  held  m  his 
hands  a  twisted  serpent ;  the  second  was  white,  haymg  in  -  "gh^  h«nd 
a  parasol,  which  in  China  distinguishes  rank,  and  m  tho  left  »  ™f "««  ' 
the  third  had  a  blue  face,  and  held  in  his  hand  a  sword;  the  foiirth 
which  wa-s  yellow,  played  upon  the  lute.    These  were   Tcngrees  or  Ma- 
haransa  khans,  who  live  two  thousand  and  five  hundred  years.    They 
a^e  seven  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  height;  they  watch  over  the 
Winess  of  men  upon  the  earth,  and  dwell  in  four  different  regions  of 
Mount  Soume,  which  is  the  center  of  the  universe  and  the  abode  of 
tutelary  divinities.    This  mountain  has  seven  gilded  summits  and  ex- 
tends seventy  thousand  miles  toward  each  of  the  four  quarters  of  the 

""""'on  the  19th  they  reached  Erglu,  the  last  station  of  the  country  of 
Khalkha     Toward  evening  Idam  came  to  give  notice  of  his  departure 
for  the  Ourga.    They  experienced  a  deep  regret  at  partmg  w-ith  a  man 
who  by  his  zeal  in  their  behalf  had  acquired  a  claim  upon  their  grati- 
tude   Before  their  departure  on  the  2l8t,  the  bitkheshi  begged  M.  Tim- 
kovski  to  prevent  his  people  from  shooting  the  crows,  as  they  had  done 
on  their  arrival  at  Erghi,  pretending  that  the  storm  of  the  preceding 
day  had  been  caused  by  this  slaughter.    In  order  to  satisfy  this  old 
man  they  promised  to  kill  no  more,  although  these  l>"d8  ^ej^^  ^jy an- 
noying to  the  camels,  for  when  they  saw  from  a  distance  the  blood  that 
came  from  the  wounds  caused  to  these  animals  by  the  rubbmg  of  their 
burdens,  they  straightway  descended  upon  their  backs     The  wind  «tiU 
continued  to  blow'so  hard  that  they  could  not  -m- on  hor^^^^^^^ 
On  approaching  Mount  Argali  they  saw  on  the  heights  a  troj  o*  g»- 
.elles.''The  ascent  was  through  deep  ravines,  amid  bo  d  ™o«.tain;cei. 
ery,  but  when  they  had  attained  the  heights  they  saw  the  «t W  «P;«f^ 
out  before  them  as  fiir  as  the  eye  could  reach.    The  places  which  were 
more  than  twenty  miles  distant  presented  a  blue  W^^"^^'/?^ 'j;!: 
the  plain  bore  some  resemblance  to  an  agitated  sea.    They  had  betore 
them  the  ascent  to  the  highest  plateau  of  middle  Asia,  which  properly 


:iN. 

paved  with  stone, 
vat.  These  ruins, 
[han,  now  served 
ijTolcse  rarely  visit 
plendor  and  Inde- 

,  that  is  to  say,  the 
'  the  station  was  a 
t).    It  is  said  that 

saw  none.  They 
Thibetan  architect- 
ivas  our  guide,  sent 
I  entrance  into  the 
sal  size.  Two  were 
ed,  and  held  in  his 
ig  in  his  right  hand 

the  left  a  incuse ; 
,  sword ;  the  fourth 
e  Tengrees  or  Ma- 
ndrcd  years.  They 
ey  watch  over  the 
different  regions  of 

and  the  abode  of 
id  summits  and  ex- 
four  quarters  of  the 

n  of  the  country  of 
tice  of  his  departure 
parting  with  a  man 
iim  upon  their  grati- 
sshi  begged  M.  Tim- 
rs,  as  they  had  done 
rm  of  the  preceding 
r  to  satisfy  this  old 
3  birds  were  very  an- 
itance  the  blood  that 
the  rubbing  of  their 
acks.    The  wind  still 
•emain  on  horseback, 
leightsatroopofga- 
[  bold  mounttdn  scen- 
aw  the  steppe  spread 
he  places  which  were 
!  appearance,  so  that 
sa.    They  had  before 
Asia,  which  properly 


iHmSsi'lt, 


^-■:?-.-ff*-J^^::s^'^ 


THE    DESERT    OP  GOBI. 


869 


bears  the  name  of  Gobi.  The  rainy  summer  of  this  year  had  caused  a 
little  herbage  to  grow  upon  this  steppe,  usually  naked  and  sterile ;  but 
in  a  time  of  drouth,  it  is  truly  the  country  of  affliction  ;  the  cattle  die  of 
hunger  and  thirst. 

On  the  2'7th  M.  Tirakovski  visited  Mount  Bathkai,  near  the  stution 
of  that  name.  From  its  summit,  as  from  that  of  Darkhan,  woihs  seen 
on  all  sides  vast  plains  upon  which  numerous  herds  Avere  pasturing  ;  in 
some  places  they  saw  black  yourtes,  like  islands  on  an  inuuL'iiso  liikc. 
In  looking  over  these  deserts  it  is  difficult  to  believe  that  the  iiihiibitaiit 
of  the  Gobi  enjoys  a  tolerable  e.-stence;  he  is  deprived  of  wood,  and 
has  not  the  things  most  necessary  to  the  aimplest  wants  of  life.  At  tho 
beginning  of  summer  he  prays  heaven  to  grant  him  rain,  which  rarely 
waters  the  steppes.  During  that  season  the  drouth  destroys  his  cattle, 
his  only  resource.  The  same  misfortune  threatens  him  in  winter  ;  enow 
and  frost  cover  the  earth  and  deprive  his  animals  of  the  only  herbage 
which  can  furnish  them  tho  means  of  subsistence.  The  Mongolese  in- 
formed them  that  five  years  before,  the  whole  steppe  of  Gobi  was  af- 
flicted with  a  mortality  among  the  cattle  so  great  that  many  pro- 
prietors saved  but  twenty-five  horses  out  of  five  hundred,  and  four 
oxen  out  of  two  hundred.  The  inhabitants  had  not  yet  recovered  this 
unusual  loss. 

This  unpleasant  passage  continued  for  seven  stations,  or  one  hundred 
miles ;  until  reaching  the  dwellings  of  the  Tsakhar  Mongolese,  they  saw 
on  all  sides  nothing  but  a  sea  of  sand  and  pebbles.  Such  is  the  steppe 
of  Gobi;  like  the  African  desert  of  Sahara.  The  road  passed  over  on 
the  1st  of  November  was  tho  most  fatiguing  of  the  whole  journey.  The 
country  was  mountainous ;  the  surface,  formed  of  mingled  sand  and  clay, 
was  almost  impassable  on  account  of  the  rain ;  the  mountains  were  cov- 
ered with  snow ;  the  horses  and  camels  were  so  fatigued  by  the  violence 
of  the  wind,  by  the  cold,  the  long  stages,  the  bad  food  and  briny  water, 
during  the  eleven  days'  passage  across  the  territory  of  the  Sunites,  that 
six  of  the  camels  sunk  beneath  their  loads,  and  six  draught-horses  were 
entirely  worn  out.  The  cold  still  increased ;  the  mercury  sank  to  zero 
on  the  morning  of  the  3d,  and  on  the  4th  it  was  two  degrees  below. 
They  crossed  a  sandy  mountain  this  day,  over  which  the  roed  was  un- 
even and  toilsome.  They  frequently  saw  yourtes  by  the  way,  and  a 
great  many  cattle ;  they  also  met  largo  caravans,  loaded  with  tea,  on 
their  way  to  Kiakhta. 

One  day  they  were  much  surprised  to  find  lying  in  the  road,  in  a 
leather  sack,  the  body  of  an  infant  one  year  old.  Upon  the  sack  was  a 
small  piece  of  sheepskin,  a  little  millet,  and  a  small  loaf  of  bread.  This 
was  an  ordinary  mode  of  burying  the  dead  among  the  Mongolese.  The 
priests  of  Buddha,  to  subjugate  the  minds  of  their  followers,  have  repre- 
sented death  under  a  frightful  image.  The  dying  devotee  sends  for  a 
lama,  to  secure  the  welfare  of  his  body  and  the  salvation  of  his  soul ;  the 
priest,  after  making  inquiries  respecting  the  day  and  the  hour  of  the  pa- 

24 


f 


I 


870 


TIMKOVSKI'S   JOURNEY    TO    PEKIN, 


tient'8  birth,  the  accompanying  circumstances,  and  all  the  events  of  his 
life,  pronounces,  according  to  the  sacred  books  and  the  laws  of  astrology, 
whether  the  body  shall  be  burned  or  cast  into  the  water ;  whether  it 
shall  be  exposed  in  a  kind  of  cage,  or  covered  with  stones,  etc.    There 
are  some  exceptions :  for  instance,  they  do  not  bury  a  man  who  has 
been  hung ;  whoever  dies  in  consequence  of  tumors,  can  not  be  burned ; 
they  do  not  cast  into  the  water  those  who  have  been  drowned  in  an  in- 
undation,  or  struck  by  lightning,  or  devoured  by  the  flames ;  they  do 
not  bury  upon  a  mountain  any  one  who  has  died  of  a  contagious  dis- 
ease ;  in  a  word,  one  can  not  without  a  reason,  throw  wood  into  the  fire, 
fire  and  earth  into  water,  carry  wood  upon  a  mountain  or  into  a  forest. 
Such  are  the  laws  of  the  Buddhists.     The  most  usual  manner  of  disposing 
of  the  dead  is  to  transport  them  into  a  steppe,  and  there  leave  them, 
abandoned  to  wild  beasts  and  birds  of  prey.     But  even  in  this  case  the 
lama  decides  which  quarter  of  the  world  the  head  must  be  turned 
toward ;  a  weather-vane  is  planted  in  the  ground,  and  the  direction  given 
to  it  by  the  wind  determines  that  in  which  the  deceased  shall  be  placed. 
For  the  rest,  every  thing  depends  wholly  upon  the  lama,  who  prescribes 
in  like  manner  how  the  corpse  must  be  buried,  whether  it  shall  be 
clothed  or  left  naked,  placed  in  the  open  air  or  in  an  old  tent,  and  deter- 
mines  which  of  his  effects  or  what  objects  should  be  added  as  offermgs. 

In  the  night  of  November  13th  two  of  their  horses  perished  with 

cold  and  fatigue.    On  the  summits  of  the  chain  of  Khinkhan-dabagan 

mountains,  in  the  south,  they  could  distinguish  towers;  these  were  on 

the  frontier  between  China  and  Mongolia,  which  they  now  perceived  for 

the  first  time,  and  with  extreme  satisfaction.     At  ten  o'clock  they 

reached  a  small,  half-ruined  fortification,  called  Tsagan-balgassoo,  or 

white-walled  city,  where  they  rejoiced  in  having  happily  passed  over  the 

steppes,  with  their  snows  and  sands  and  impetuous,  icy  winds.    Here 

they  made  inspection  of  their  horses,  camels,  and  oxen,  a  part  of  which 

were  to  be  left  until  March,  in  the  foUowing  year.    On  the  mornmg  of 

the  16th  they  entered  a  deep  valley  among  the  Khuikhan  mountains, 

and  passed  a  fort  on  a  smaU  elevation.    The  animals  went  on  with  great 

difficulty;  the  cold  became  so  intense  that  it  was  impossible  to  keep 

warm,  even  by  walking.     StUl  they  had  fifteen  miles  to  go  before  reach- 

in.r  a  station.    Their  embarrassment  increased  when  a  few  miles  further 

they  were  obliged  to  cross  over  mountains  where  their  animals  slipped 

and  fell  at  every  step  on  the  ice,  or  plunged  into  deep  snows.    At  this 

place  they  passed  a  post  of  Mongolese  sentinels,  in  several  yourtes. 

They  began  to  see  indications  of  the  vicinity  of  a  commercial  city;  they 

continually  met  caravans,  chariots,  and  riders  mounted  on  camels  and 

horses.    Soon  afterward  they  reached  the  chain  of  mountains  which 

separates  Mongolia  from  China.    On  tl>  .r  summits  extends  a  stone 

rampart,  with  square  brick  towers  at  equal  distances  from  each  other. 

From  this  point  China  appears  in  colossal  forms.     Southward,  east- 
ward, and  westwai-d,  nothing  was  seen  but  snow-covered  mountains, 


1  Hifii*!  «*<£*{  *** 


IN. 

I  the  events  of  his 
laws  of  astrology, 
water ;  whether  it 
tones,  etc.    There 
f  a  man  who  haa 
an  not  be  burned ; 
drowned  in  an  in- 
e  flames ;  they  do 
a  contagious  dis- 
wood  into  the  fire, 
lin  or  into  a  forest, 
lanncr  of  disposing 
I  there  leave  them, 
ren  in  this  case  the 
i  must  be  turned 
the  direction  given 
ed  shall  be  placed, 
na,  who  prescribes 
hether  it  shall  be 
)ld  tent,  and  deter- 
idded  as  offerings. 
)rses  perished  with 
Khiukhan-dabagan 
ers ;  these  were  on 
•  now  perceived  for 
ten  o'clock  they 
sagan-balgassoo,  or 
>ily  passed  over  the 
1,  icy  winds.    Here 
en,  a  part  of  which 
On  the  morning  of 
iuikh.an  mountains, 
went  on  with  great 
impossible  to  keep 
to  go  before  reach- 
a  few  miles  further 
licir  animals  slipped 
3ep  snows.    At  this 
in  several  yourtes. 
nmercial  city ;  they 
ted  on  camels  and 
if  mountdns  which 
ts  extends  a  stone 
from  etich  other. 
.     Southward,  east- 
L'overed  mountains, 


ARRIVAL    AT    KHALGAK. 


871 


whose  pointed  summits  reached  the  clouds.  The  descent  for  three  miles 
to  the  Chinese  village  of  Nor-tian,  is  by  a  narrow  road  which  was  very 
dangerous  at  that  season ;  beyond  that  village  the  traveler  sees  high 
mountains  whose  threatening  summits  give  a  wild  character  to  the  dis- 
trict. Such  is  the  aspect  of  the  country  at  the  place  where  they  de- 
scended from  the  high  steppes  of  Mongolia  to  the  lower  heights  of 
China.  They  halted  at  the  first  Chinese  village  ;  it  was  with  pleasure 
they  entered  a  house,  having  seen  nothing  since  leaving  the  Ourga,  a 
journey  of  more  than  seven  hundred  miles,  that  reminded  them  of  the 
customs  of  sedentary  life. 

It  is  about  fifteen  miles  from  the  first  Chinese  village  to  Chang-kia- 
kheou,  or  Khalgan.  The  road  is  at  first  narrow  and  intersected  with 
hills,  which  are  rather  steep.  The  boldness  and  indefatigable  activity 
of  the  Chinese  laborers  attracted  the  attention  of  the  travelers;  the  sum- 
mits of  the  highest  mountains  were  covered  with  cultivated  fields,  and 
the  naked  and  inaccessible  rocks  seemed  to  have  been  rendered  fertile. 
There  were  villages  and  temples  on  the  declivities  of  the  mountains, 
and  several  cabins  were  built  against  the  rocks  like  birds'  nests. 

They  first  saw  Khalgan  when  they  arrived  at  the  Great  Wall,  which 
is  built  of  bricks  between  two  steep  rocks,  and  is  now  half-ruined. 

At  Khalgan,  as  at  the  Maimatchin  of  Kiakhta  and  the  Ourga,  it  was 
the  custom  to  fire  a  cannon  at  six  in/the  morning  and  nine  in  the  even- 
ing ;  at  the  former  report  every  inhabitant  is  allowed  to  leave  his  home, 
and  even,  if  necessary,  to  go  and  see  the  city  authorities,  but  at  the 
latter  this  right  ceases,  except  in  extraordinary  cases.  A  river  divides 
the  city  into  two  parts,  the  upper  and  lower  town  ;  the  former  is  on  the 
Mongolian  frontier,  and  has  its  gates  in  the  great  •wall,  which  extends 
across  the  mountains.  Khalgan  is  not  large,  and  has  no  remarkable 
edifices,  but  is  very  populous.  The  inhabitants  appeared  to  have  a  great 
curiosity  to  see  the  strangers  :  all  day  they  besieged  the  doors  of  their 
house,  and  the  neighboring  roofs  were  covered  with  spectators. 

On  the  route  from  Khalgan  to  Pekin  they  gained  a  good  idea  of  the 
people  of  China  and  their  industrious  habits.  At  every  step  they  met 
people  transporting  cut  straw  on  mules  and  asses.  Sentinels  are  placed 
at  regular  intervals  in  a  kind  of  watch-houses  which  rise  like  towers, 
near  five  small  conical  columns  upon  which  the  distances  are  marked. 
Tlie  exterior  of  the  watch-towers  is  embellished  with  paintings,  repre- 
senting horses,  guns,  bows  and  quivers  of  arrows.  These  watch-towers 
serve  likewise  as  telegraphs :  if  the  northern  frontier  of  China  is  threat- 
ened the  news  is  immediately  transmitted  to  Pekin,  and  the  army  is  at 
once  marched  against  the  enemy.  The  route  led  southward,  along  the 
banks  of  the  Yang-ho,  a  shallow  river  with  a  very  rapid  current  which, 
except  at  the  rapids,  was  now  bound  in  with  ice.  A  portion  of  the  way 
passes  through  rugged  rocks,  which  often  rise  abruptly  from  the  river, 
whose  waters  leap  tumultuously  down  the  precipice  below,  while  other 
rocks  from  the  opposite  side  threaten  to  crush  the  traveler.    Beyond  the 


872 


TIMKOVSKI'S   JOURNEY    TO    PEKIN. 


river  rises  the  Whang-yang-chang,  a  granite  mountain  whose  pomted 
peaks  are  lost  among  the  clouds.    The  wild  and  majestic  aspect  ot  this    , 
region  is  most  impressive  to  the  traveler  who  has  just  left  the  dry  and    . 

desolate  steppes.  ! 

After  passing  the  town  of  Yu-lin-fu  on  the  28th,  the  ground  was  .ov-  , 

ered  with  stones  and  no  cultivated  fields  were  seen.     They  arrived  . 
at  the  foot  of  high  mountains,  where  they  saw  a  number  oi  ruined 

tombs      On  the  summit  of  the  mountains,  which  rose  nearly  to  the  i 

clouds,  the  great  wall  appeared.    This  grand  monument,  unique  m  its  ^ 

kbd,  produces  an  imposing  effect,  when  we  consider  that  it  has  existed  ; 

for  several  centuries,  and  that  it  extends  to  a  great  distance  over  mac-  , 

cessible  mountains.  ^  -nr  n      u;  i,  *i,„„    '■ 

Two  nules  from  Chah-tao  they  came  to  the  Great  WaU,  which  they 
insoected     After  passing  an  arched  entrance  in  the  principal  tower,  they 
entered  a  large  court,  from  which  they  ascended  by  steps  to  the  top  of     | 
the  Wall.     Notwithstanding  the  centuries  which  have  passed  since  this    | 
structure  has  been  in  existence,  it  is  built  with  such  skiU  and  care,  tha      , 
instead  of  falling  in  ruins,  it  is  like  a  stone  rampart  raised  by  the  hand 
oftature  to  prolct  the  northern  provinces  of  China  frorn  the  invasions 
of  the  Mongds,  who  have  not  yet  wholly  lost  their  warlike  character     , 
The  Great  WaU  is  composed  of  two  parallel  walls  with  embattled  tops, 
and  the  interval  is  filled  with  earth  and  gravel.    The  foundations  con-    ! 
Stoflarge  rough  stones;  the  restofthewallisof  bricks     It  is  twenty-    | 
x  feet  Wgh  and  fourteen  wide.    The  towers,  in  which  there  are  sev^al    | 
brass  guns,  are  about  one  hundred  paces  apart.    The  great  tower  is  M- 
Tngt^decay ;  the  entrance  is  much  damaged,  as  weU  as  the  adjoimng 
wall     There  is  no  longer  any  thought  of  repairmg  it.    To  give  a  just 
Tdea  of  this  immense  structure,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  refer  to  a  calcu^ 
tion  of  Mr.  Barrow,  who  visited  China  with  Lord  Macartney  m  1793  and 
1794     He  reckons  the  number  of  houses  m  England  and  Scotland  to  be 
eighteen  hundred  thousand.    Estimating  the  mason-work  of  each  at  two 
thousand  cubic  feet,  he  supposes  that  they  do  not  contain  as  m«ch jn^*;- 
rial  as  the  Great  WaU  of  China,  which  he  says  woiUd  be  sufficient  to 
construct  a  waU  that  would  reach  twice  around  the  earth. 

They  descended  from  the  mountains  on  the  30th,  and  entered  the 
weU-cultivated  plains  of  Pe-chee-le,  over  which  they  proceeded  toward 
The  capital.  After  passing  the  suburban  city  of  Chi^ho.  the  opulence  in- 
dicaling  the  approach  to  a  large  city,  began  to  appear.  For  sevend 
S  before  reLing  the  market-town,  Tsing-ho  they  passed  ple^t 
country-houses,  and  the  cemeteries  of  persons  of  distmction  m  Pekm. 
STse  we  characterized  by  elegant  simplicity  rather  than  grand  luxury ; 
evei^^rhere  they  saw  the  white  trunks  of  cypresses,  thick  groves  of  aged 
ST  a^d  of  junipers,  which  attain  the  height  of  the  taUest  pine  . 
^^LX  the' way,  fifty  Mongolese  camels,  which  were  carrymg  b«^ 
ter  I  the  Imperial  Court ;  the  foremost  camek  were  ornamented  with 
gmaU  strips  of  yeUow  cloth  fiiatened  to  sticks,  bke  flags. 


Mftiii'iyiiUM,  nn 


N. 

whose  pointed 
ic  aspect  of  this 
loft  the  dry  and 

ground  was  cov- 

They  arrived  j 

imber  of  ruined  ' 

le  nearly  to  the  j 

at,  unique  in  its  i 

lat  it  has  existed  j 
[Stance  over  inac- 

WnM,  which  they  j 
icipal  tower,  they  ; 
eps  to  the  top  of  | 
passed  since  this  ! 
ill  and  care,  that 
lised  by  the  hand  ' 
rom  the  invasions  | 
rarlike  character.  \ 
I  embattled  tops,  1 
foundations  con-  ' 
iks.    It  is  twenty-    I 

I  there  are  several 
Treat  tower  is  fall- 

II  as  the  adjoining 
;.  To  give  a  just 
refer  to  a  calcula- 
artnoyin  1793  and 
md  Scotland  to  be 
ork  of  each  at  two 
lain  as  much  mate- 
uld  be  sufficient  to 
irth. 

h,  and  entered  the 
proceeded  toward 
10,  the  opulence  in- 
pear.  For  several 
»ey  passed  pleasant 
stinction  in  Pekin. 
than  grand  luxury ; 
bick  groves  of  aged 
f  the  tallest  pines, 
were  carrying  but- 
•e  ornamented  with 

gS.  .,-...,:..-..-- 


ENTRANOB    INTO    PEKIN. 


878 


At  nine  o'clock  next  day,  they  set  out  from  T»ing-ho  for  Pckin.  For 
nearly  four  miles  they  followed  an  avenue  of  ancient  willows,  passing  vil- 
lages and  cemeteries  on  the  right  hand  and  left.  Thoy  soon  reached  the 
suburbs  of  Pokin.  Two  students  of  the  old  mission  came  to  meet  them, 
with  four  Chinese  calashes  for  the  new  members,  and  a  saddled  horse  for 
M.  Timkovski.  In  the  suburbs  the  noise,  the  tumult,  and  the  crowd,  an- 
nounced the  vicinity  of  the  most  populous  city  of  the  globe.  They  soon 
came  out  on  a  large  plain,  and  the  walls  of  Pckin  in  their  full  extent  lay 
spread  out  before  them.  "  Finally,  the  immense  distance  between  St. 
Petersburg  and  the  capital  of  China  was  passed  over.  At  once  forget- 
ting all  our  fatigues,"  observes  Timkovski,  "  we,  inhabitants  of  the  shores 
of  the  gulf  of  Finland,  fancied  ourselves  transported  in  an  instant,  by 
some  supernatural  power,  to  this  city  which  had  so  long  been  the  object 
of  the  dreams  of  our  imagination,  and  the  aim  of  our  desires.  With  a 
sentiment  of  joy  each  one  of  us  cast  his  eyes  upon  the  embrasur'^d  walls, 
whose  origin  is  enveloped  in  the  thick  shadows  of  antiquity." 

Northward  of  the  plain,  they  saw  the  red  walls  of  a  temple  of  Fohi, 
and  at  a  short  distance  observed  the  funeral  of  a  rich  Chinese.  Two 
miles  from  the  entrance  to  this  plain  they  passed  the  Russian  cemetery, 
where  the  members  of  their  mission,  who  die  in  Pekin,  are  interred.  A 
little  further  on,  the  mission  entered  with  ceremony  by  the  gate  Ngang- 
ting-mcng  into  the  capital  of  China.  A  crowd  of  gazers  surrounded 
them.  They  followed  the  broad  street  leading  from  the  gate  for  a  mile 
and  a  half,  then  proceeded  by  a  cross-street  to  the  street  Ta-fo-szu,  which 
they  traversed  in  a  southern  direction  two  miles  to  a  triumphal  arch  of 
wood  ;  thence  to  the  right,  along  the  street  Chang-ngang,  they  passed  the 
temple  of  Manchoo  worship  on  the  left,  and  the  tribunal  of  foreign  affairs 
on  the  right.  They  then  crossed  the  canal,  or  small  river,  Yu-ho,  on  a 
marble  bridge  called  Pe-khiao,  passed  the  Imperial  Palace  on  the  right, 
went  southward  along  the  canal  for  nearly  a  mile,  then  crossed  the  bridge 
Chung  Yu-ho-khias,  turned  up  the  street  Tung-kiang-me-kiang,  and,  at 
noon,  finally  entered  the  Russian  court,  where  they  were  received  by 
several  members  of  the  old  mission. 

After  their  arrival,  M.  Tlmkovski's  health  was  impaired,  partly  from 
the  dampness  of  the  house  of  the  embassy,  and  the  exhalations  of  the 
coal  bunied  in  the  apartments ;  the  abbot  therefore  gave  him  a  room  in 
the  convent,  which  he  occupied  during  the  cold  weather.  The  chambers 
of  the  convent  were  heated  from  beneath  the  floor ;  the  occupants  lived 
very  warm,  but  the  continual  heat  injured  the  feet. 

All  the  dwellings  of  Pekin,  from  the  cabin  of  the  artisan  to  the  palace 
of  the  rich  man,  are  of  one  story,  and  built  of  bricks ;  the  court  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  high  stone  wall,  so  that  from  the  street  one  can  see  noth- 
ing but  the  roofs.  The  shops,  however,  have  large  paper  windows,  which 
occupy  nearly  the  whole  front.  In  most  of  the  houses,  in  all  the  shops, 
and  even  in  the  palace  of  the  emperor,  remarkable  sentences  from  the 
philosophers  or  the  celebrated  poets  are  written  upon  the  tapestry  of  the 


mm 


874 


TIMKOVSKI'S   JOURNEY    TO    PEKIN. 


I 


I 


wiiiilowH,  as  well  an  upon  paper  of  variolic  colors.  Among  the  rich  tlio 
partitions  anil  doors  aro  of  precious  wood,  :w  cainplior,  cypress,  etc., 
and  adorned  witli  sculptures.  Uesidc  the  agre(!al)le  impression  which 
they  make  upon  the  sight,  they  diffuse  a  pleasant  o(h)r  through  the  apart- 
ments. All  the  roofe  are  of  tiles,  green,  red,  or  yellow,  which  ar-j  ar- 
ranged, like  every  thing  in  this  country,  by  fixed  rules.  Tlius  the  imperial 
edifices  and  the  temples  can  alone  be  covered  with  yellow  tiles ;  green  is  for 
the  [talnces  of  personages  of  high  rank ;  gray  tiles  are  used  for  other  houses. 
The  Munchoo  language  is  not  difficult  to  learn.  Like  other  Asiatic 
languages  it  has  its  alphabet  and  grammar ;  the  former  resembles  the 
Mongolese ;  the  proniniciation  is  much  more  sonorous.  The  Manchooa, 
atUr  the  conquest  of  China  in  1644,  were  obliged  to  complete  their 
language,  hitherto  poor,  as  that  of  a  nomadic  people,  and  to  perfect  it 
accorduig  to  the  rules  of  Chinese  literature.  After  two  hundred  years 
of  sojourn  among  a  numerous  and  partially  civilized  people,  the  Man- 
choos  have  become  accustomed  to  their  manners  and  customs,  and  their 
language  ;  so  that,  at  present,  all  classes  of  them  speak  Chinese.  Even 
hi  Pekin  there  are  but  few  people  who  understand  the  Manchoo  lan- 
guage ;  it  is  employed  only  m  the  affairs  of  state. 

On  the  3d  of  January,  1821,  the  travelers  visited  the  shops  of  the 
merchants,  situated  mostly  in  the  suburb  called  Vai-le-ching.  At  the 
commencement  of  the  street  Leoo-le-chang,  which  is  very  short  and 
very  filthy,  there  are  several  book-stores,  which  sell  Chinese  and  Man- 
choo books,  all  bound  and  well  arranged ;  but  on  examining  them  we 
soon  find  that  many  of  them  aro  very  defective.  The  Chinese  book- 
sellers have  a  habit  of  asking  five  tunes  as  much  as  the  books  are  worth ; 
they  endeavor  to  sell  copies  in  which  leaves  are  missing,  or  books  which 
are  composed  of  the  leaves  of  three  or  four  different  works.  One  must 
be  wide  awake  if  he  would  not  be  cheated  by  the  rascality  of  the  Chinese 
booksellers ;  and  in  fact  this  distrust  is  equally  necessary  in  the  purchase 
of  other  goods.  The  best  books,  and  principally  the  historical  books,  are 
issued  from  the  imperial  press,  where  the  booksellers  of  Pekin  and  other 
cities  buy  them  at  a  price  fixed  by  government.  This  press  also  pub- 
lishes every  other  day  a  gazette  containing  the  extraordinary  events 
which  happen  in  the  empire,  the  ordinances,  and  especially  the  list  of 
promotions,  the  favors  granted  by  the  emperor,  such  as  yellow  robes 
and  peacock  feathers  (equivalent  to  the  orders  of  knighthood,  etc.,  in 
Europe),  the  punishment  of  delinquent  mandarins,  etc. 

Further  on,  in  the  same  street,  are  jeweler's  shops,  where  pictures  and 
objects  carved  out  of  jasper,  ivory,  and  precious  woods,  for  the  decora- 
tion of  apartments,  are  sold.  The  work  is  well  finished.  They  have 
also  glassware,  glazed  porcelain,  etc.,  all  of  the  best  quality.  In  like 
manner  one  meets  with  a  quantity  of  articles  from  the  imperial  palace, 
which  the  eunuchs  have  the  dexterity  to  carry  off,  and  sell  at  a  mean 
price  to  the  merchants ;  they  Ukewise  saw  English  goods,  which  came 
by  way  of  Canton. 


IN. 

niong  the  rich  tho 
lior,  cypress,  etc., 
iiiipro8i<ioa  which 
Lhrougli  the  upart- 
luw,  which  ar'j  ar- 
Thii8  the  imperial 
V  tiles ;  green  is  for 
d  for  other  houses. 
Like  other  Asiatic 
ner  resembU'S  tho 
.  The  Manclioos, 
to  complete  their 
!,  and  to  perfect  it 
wo  hundred  ycara 
[  people,  the  Man- 
customs,  and  their 
ik  Chinese.  Even 
the  Manchoo  lan> 

the  shops  of  the 
,-le-ching.  At  the 
is  very  short  and 
Chinese  and  Man- 
xamining  them  we 
rhe  Chinese  book- 
i  books  are  worth ; 
ig,  or  books  which 
works.  One  must 
ility  of  the  Chinese 
»ry  iu  the  purchase 
istorical  books,  are 
of  Pekin  and  other 
bis  press  also  pub- 
traordinary  events 
ipecially  the  list  of 
;h  as  yellow  robes 
mighthood,  etc.,  in 

where  pictures  and 
jds,  for  the  dccora- 
lished.  They  have 
t  quality.  In  like 
he  imperial  palace, 
and  sell  at  a  mean 
goods,  which  came 


TUB  IMPERIAL  ARMY  OF  CHINA. 


875 


Near  each  of  the  city  gates  donkeys  are  kej)!  saddled  for  public  serv- 
ice. The  Chinese  mount  tliese  niiiiiials  in  order  to  go  from  one  gate  to 
another;  light  burdtais  are  also  transporteil  upon  them.  In  winter  they 
also  pass  upon  tho  canal,  which  is  covered  with  ice.  Several  ptTHonn 
take  places  on  a  kind  of  sleigh,  made  of  boards,  and  drawn  by  a  man. 
It  is  said  that  even  in  summer  one  can  pass  from  Pekin  to  the  southern 
provinces  in  small  chariots  drawn  by  men.  Tho  vaults  near  tht;  city 
walls  are  inhabited  by  the  poor.  It  is  impossible  to  form  an  idea  of  tin? 
miserable  and  disgusting  aspect  of  these  unfortunate  beings :  almost 
naked,  or  covered  with  matted  rags,  they  drag  themselves  about  among 
the  sliops  of  tho  commercial  quarter  to  beg  alms ;  after  having  received 
a  faw  chokhi  they  return  to  conceal  themselves  in  their  caves. 

The  Chinese  army  is  composed  of  four  divisions  corresponding  to  tho 
nations  which  the  empire  contains.  Tho  division  composed  of  Manclioos, 
numbering  nearly  sixty-eight  thousand  men,  occupies  tho  first  rank. 
The  second  division  embraces  the  Mongoloso,  who  entered  China  with 
the  Manchoos  at  tho  epoch  of  the  conquest ;  it  numbers  twenty-one 
thousand.  Tho  third  division  is  composed  of  the  Chinese  who  joined  tho 
Jllanchoos  toward  the  close  of  tho  last  Chinese  dynasty,  and  numbers 
twenty-seven  thousand.  To  this  division  belongs  tho  artillery  of  tho 
company,  consisting  of  four  hundred  cannon.  These  three  bodies,  num- 
bering over  one  hundred  thousand  men,  form  the  Manchoo  army,  projv 
erly  speaking,  the  principal  part  of  which  is  cavalry.  Tho  fourth  division 
is  composed  of  other  Chinese,  recruited  annually  ;  it  occupies  tho  garri- 
sons of  the  interior,  and  comprises  about  five  hundred  thousand  men. 
There  are  besides  nearly  twenty-five  thousand  men  of  irregular  troops, 
or  militia ;  making  a  total  of  six  hundred  and  twenty-five  thousand  men, 
of  whom  nearly  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  thousand  are  cavalry. 
The  Chinese  soldiers  are  all  married.  Their  sons  are,  at  their  birth,  en- 
rolled on  tho  army  list ;  when  they  are  of  age  they  fill  the  vacant  places 
in  the  companies. 

One  day  a  soldier  of  the  corps  of  Ojen-chokha,  of  Pekin,  called  on 
the  chief  of  the  new  mission.  He  was  about  forty  years  of  age,  the  son 
of  a  poor  soldier,  and  brought  up  at  the  convent  of  French  Jesuits  in  the 
city.  The  latter,  who  destined  him  to  the  station  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
preacher,  in  the  interior  provinces  of  China,  wished  to  send  him  to 
Europe  to  complete  his  studies,  as  had  been  done  with  his  uncle,  who 
had  become  a  distinguished  priest  among  his  fellow-countrymen.  But 
during  the  last  persecution  of  the  Jesuits  ho  renounced  his  calling  as 
priest,  believing  it  his  duty  to  return  to  his  regiment.  Besides  Chinese, 
he  spoke  and  wrote  Latin  and  French  well,  and  was  otherwise  well  edu- 
cated. It  was  singular  to  hear  a  Chinese,  clothed  and  armed  in  tho 
stylo  of  the  country,  speaking  French  with  fluency.  The  students  of  the 
new  mission  employed  him  as  private  tutor  in  Chinese,  because  he  spoke 
Latin  well.  M.  Timkovski  presents  to  his  readers  a  long  letter  in  Latin, 
written  by  this  soldier  to  the  abbot,  in  which  he  transcribes  some  Chi- 


J 


876 


TIMKOVSKI'S    JOURNKY    TO    PBKIN. 


„c«c  rules  of  hygiene,  containing  .lirtntionH  for  proHcrving  and  prolong- 

'"'''on' the  lUh  of  January  they  vinited  tho  ten,plos   of  \Vhang.s/.u. 
Tlu.v  fuHt  pavso.l  the  tomplo  of  the  Earth,  h.  a  large  n.elosure   m. - 
r.    ..led  l,y  high  wall.,  where  the  o„.peror  repairs  at  the  Kunune      o - 
""   o  Jo  tlu«.k«  to  the  Supreme  Being,  and  to  pray  lor  a  good  har- 
t      Tlu.n  they  came  to  the  grand  central  temple,  near  winch  were  a 
number  of  convent^  or  residences  of  tho  priestn,  and  nmny  smaller 
nS  .       I"  the  vichity  of  the  temples  stands  an  obelisk  of  wh.  o  mar- 
ir'  vl  ich,  from  the  sc.dptures  on  its  sides,  drawn  from  the  Instory  of 
ud  ha    or  Fold,  appears  to  have  been  raised  in  honor  of  that  prophet, 
clctrincs  'ari 'followed  in  Thibet,  China,  Mongolia,  and  by  the 
i  rhtes  and  the  Calmucks.     It  is  an  octagonal  tower,  nnu^y-four  feet 
i^       The  top  is  slender,  and  is  su^„^ounted  by  a  largo  c^p  of  massive 
3   which  resembles  the  hat  of  tho  dalui-lama.     On  the  four  sules  arc 
tllptu  ed  marble  columns.    Tho  obelisk  is  a  beautiful  work  and  cost  a 
a  g      um  ''f  n.oney.     Near  it  is  a  snmll  chateau  -hero  the  emperor 
rests  when  ho  goes  to  bear  his  olTeru.gs  to  the  temple  of  the  Earth. 

In  tJicnght  preceding  January  22d,  the  dull  sound  of  kettle-drums 
in  the  empfcB  announced  tho  new  year  of  the  Chinese,  which  begms 
witl  thHewmoon.  In  the  temple  in  tho  Russian  court  torches  ot 
r^o  ilrou"  wW  were  kh.dlod,  and  a  lama  recited  prayers,  b-tmg  the 
"vhiron  a  copper  vessel.  Toward  midnight  the  prmcos  of  the  blood 
LTthe  mostltinguished  personages  --j'^f^ -/^^^^^^rwhe^^ 
sunrise  thev  followed  the  emperor  to  tho  temple  of  his  ancestors,  w  nere 
Te  performed  his  devotions  according  to  the  prescrn>ed  ntual,  then  re 
tLed  to  the  palace  to  receive  the  felicitations  of  the  grandees  of  the 
emile,  and  1  members  of  tho  tribunals  of  Pekin  On  the  occasion 
oHlie  new  year  the  tribunals  throughout  China  are  closed  for  a  month, 
and  the  great  seal  of  the  empire  is  locked  up  during  the  fme 

Tho  festival  of  the  new  year  continues  till  tho  ™»ddle  of  the  first 
month    During  this  time  a  bell  of  extraordinary  size  is  exhibited ;  rt  is  m 
Holn^of  th!.  ^<.cIu^ngs,  or  priests  of  Fohi,  two  -"- -f^'^;  ^^^^^^ 
Curious  to  see  all  that  is  permitted  to  a  stranger  m  ^^^Z^;^"^;^ /^^^^^^^^^^^ 
M  Timkovski,  with  several  of  his  countrymen,  repaired  to  the  convent 
on  the  5th  of  February.    A  great  number  of  men  and  women  assomble 
In^  during  the  fesffval.    The  inquisitive  crowd  pressed  around  the 
sXors  on  all  sides;  happily  the  soldiers  <>f  ^ .J^.^^^Tvllltthe 
whiDS  opened  the  way.    Passing  a  two^tory  bmldmg  containing  the 
;  aJr^LTof  the  mo'nks,  they  fame  to  the  belfry,  '^J^^^Xl^^;, 
bell  so  renowned  in  China.  It  is  of  copper  and  quite  Slackened  by  tm^^^^ 
its  height  is  thirteen  feet,  its  form  conical     It  •«/«^«"^^/'^^,^^"^^7, 
characlers  and  weighs  about  a  hundred  thousand  P"""^^-.  J'' c  accent 
toTtt  by  a  rude,  dark  stairway.  Near  the  top  is  a  small  orifice  through 
wWch  the  d"  ot'ees  throw  copper  coins;  he  who  B-ceeds  m  passing 
Uiem  through  this  hole,  finds  a  happy  presage  in  the  circumstance.    The 


iig  and  prolong- 

of  \VlmnK-H/.»i. 
I!  indosiiro  Hur- 
,ho  miinincr  hoI- 

Ibr  a  p)Ocl  liur- 

ar  which  were  a 
nmiiy  smaller 
sk  of  whito  raar- 
II  the  history  of 

of  that  prophet, 
rolia,  and  l)y  the 
ninety-four  feet 
TO  cap  of  massive 
he  four  sides  arc 
work  and  cost  a 
lero  the  emperor 
B  of  the  Earth, 
il  of  kettle-drums 
;se,  which  begins 
court  torches  of 
lyers,  beating  the 
inces  of  the  blood 

the  palace.  At 
s  ancestors,  where 
led  ritual,  then  re- 
e  grandees  of  the 
On  the  occasion 
losed  for  a  month, 
he  time. 

niddle  of  the  first 
J  exhibited ;  it  is  in 
les  south  of  Pekin. 
lis  distant  country, 
red  to  the  convent 
id  women  assemble 
messed  aroimd  the 
ilicc,  by  the  aid  of 
ing  containing  the 
in  which  hangs  the 
blackened  by  time ; 
irered  with  Chinese 
ounds.  The  ascent 
nail  orifice  through 
lucceeds  in  passing 
circumstance.    The 


! 


VISIT    TO   TIIR    PORTU'JUESK    MISSION. 


877 


pieces  fiill  on  the  floor  beneath  the  bell,  and  duritig  the  festival  amount 
to  a  considerable  sum. 

They  returned  by  the  imperial  court  of  elephants,  which  a  hundred 
pieces  of  coj)pcr,  applied  to  the  sentinels,  enabled  them  to  sec.  Tlie 
court  is  very  large,  and  contains  a  temple,  a  weli,  four  large  buildings 
for  the  elephants,  and  several  houses  itdiabited  by  the  employees  of 
the  cstablisliinent.  The  elephants  arc  employed  in  transporting  the  ves- 
sels with  which  the  emperor  performs  the  sacrifices.  Tht.'se  vessels  ;iio 
placed  on  very  large  litters,  made  for  the  purpose..  Four  elephants  are 
also  taken  duily  to  the  court.  Ono  of  them,  in  obedience  to  the  voice 
of  his  leader,  strikes  with  his  trunk  upon  the  floor  as  many  times  as  he 
is  ordered,  another  makes  a  rumbling  like  the  muflled  sounds  of  a  drum 
and  utters  piercing  cries.  The  greater  part  of  these  animals  are  aged 
and  infirm ;  many  are  so  gentle  that  they  walk  peaceably  about  the 
court.  The  elephants  of  Pekin  are  usually  brought,  at  a  great  e.xj)en8e, 
from  the  liirman  empire. 

On  the  I'ith  of  February,  the  abbots  Hyacinth  and  Peter,  accom- 
panied by  M.  Timkovski  and  a  party  of  Cossacks,  proceeded  on  horse- 
back to  visit  the  Portuguese  missionaries,  of  the  convent  of  the  south. 
Father  Uibeira,  the  superior  of  the  convent,  entertained  them  kindly, 
and  showerl  them  the  chapel  and  other  apartments.  They  had  just  en- 
tered the  hall  of  reception  when  an  ofticer  of  the  Manchoo  police  rushed 
in  vvith  a  terrible  outcry;  without  waiting  for  an  invitation  from  the 
superior  he  sat  down,  and  addressing  the  bishop  reproached  him  bitterly 
for  having  received  visits,  although  ho  well  knew  the  access  to  the  con- 
vent was  forbidden  to  strangers.  The  bishop  having  replied  that  this 
did  not  concern  him,  the  officer,  who  was  much  excited,  blamed  the  su- 
perior for  having  exposed  him  to  the  danger  of  losing  his  place,  for 
the  populace,  in  their  curiosity  to  see  the  Russians,  had  assembled  before 
the  coii\ent ;  the  crowd  had  become  so  great  that  it  was  impossible  to 
pass  along  the  street,  and  disagreeable  consequences  might  result  if  one 
of  the  attorneys-general  should  be  uiformcd  cf  it.  Ribeira,  mortified 
at  being  treated  thus  in  the  presence  of  his  guests,  after  having  invited 
them,  in  a  manner,  to  show  the  inhabitants  of  Pekin  how  the  Portu- 
guese are  esteemed  by  tho  other  Europeans,  attempted  to  calm  the 
oflicer,  but  without  success.  The  Manchoo  seized  a  P'-'^.- --^iscan  monk 
and  led  him  off"  to  the  police  to  answer  for  the  disorler  v  i>,(!h  th"  visit 
of  the  Russians  had  caused.  Seeing  the  audacious  effrontery  of  the 
Manchoo,  and  the  low  credit  of  the  Catholics  in  China,  the  visitors  rose 
and  asked  leave  to  retire  and  return  at  a  more  favorable  moment; 
but  the  bishop  begged  them  to  remain,  saying  that  the  Manchoo  was 
drunk,  and  that  such  vexations  on  tho  part  of  the  Chinese  happened  fre- 
quently. 

The  2l8t  of  March  was  the  first  day  of  the  third  moon,  in  the  Chi- 
nese calendar  ;  the  weather  was  very  bad.  Spring,  in  Pokin,  is  usually 
accompanied  by  impetuous  winds.    The  winter  which  had  just  closed, 


■UMk. 


<■%</ 


373  ' TIMKOTSKI'S   J>URNET   TO   PEKIN. 

0„  tho  23J,  a  great  coxcomo  "/jf'f "  "J"        The  pri«t.  carried 

Tsi  rs  jLf  a::"a  r;a  ;:sLf  wfore  l.  reeu-,„g 
a.°r:;:r'r^eY:rr--^ 

fixed  it,  at  the  latest,  on  the  fr^^y^^^f^^/i^^^^^^^^^^  of  baggage  and  the 
of  May).    The  petition  was  taken  by  th^^^^^^^  j,  ^,, 

interpreter,  -<:-J'^"^^^.  ^^^.^^^ T^^  tribunal,  who  promised  a 
graciously  received  by  the  n^^™"^" /^  ^^  ^.j  the  permission  was 
prompt  and  favorable  decision,  ^ft^r  «ome  ^  y  p^ations  for 
iccorded,  and  the  mission  Proceeded  at  o"««  *°  ^nd  on  the  14th  of 
their  departure.    These  were  ^*  ^^"f  ^^Slrrangements  for  setting 

Chinese  Empire. 


ThedimateofPeUin,asdes^^^Timl«^  ! 

that  of  America  in  the  same  Mitvide.  ^^^^^     ^^.,^^^^     , 

strangers.    Epidemic  dise^^---^  ! 

are  unknown ;  every  year  the  ^^ters  are  .^^  _  ^^^  ^j^^ 

die  of  December  until  M-'-^VrnTe  hermometer  ranges  from  ten  to 

cold  is  never  very  severe^  ^^^^^/oL  suffers  less  than  at  St.  Peters-     ! 

five  degrees  above  zero,  ^^^l^'X^'-X  season  of  squally  winds ; 

burg  with  the  same  '^^^^^^^iJ^^eiy  in  the  months  of  June  and     ! 
the  heats  of  summer  are  oPP'^^rT*;' ^    .Z„aant  rains,  which  moisten 
July  ;  these  l^eats  are  accom^^^^^^^^  ''^^:^TL  wat^s,  in  sweeping 
t;rtr CllSs:i.r.  W«  -  connrnt  ^^r^ 

serene,  and  the  weather  calm  ^^j^^  King-ching,  of 

Pekin  is  divided  by  a  high  wall  ^"^^  ^^^^f  ^^^^^^^^        The  entire  cir- 
Inipevial  City,  and  V^-lo-ching,  or  ^uthem  subu  ^  ^^^  ^^^^  ^^ 
,     cnmference  is  about  fifteen  miles.  ^«J^'      ^^^^^  „e  about  five  and 

are  forty  feet  l^ig\ -f '^^^^J^^,^^'^:^^^^^^  feet,  and  they  are 

a  half  feet.    The  tlnckness  of  th^  ^aU^^s        J^     There  are  sixteen 

1     ^^^estreetsa.long,.*a^-^,tl^n^^ 


LIN. 

Id  for  the  climate. 
L  in  the  temple  to 
:he  priests  carried 
ore  them,  reciting 

tribunal  of  foreign 

Pekin.    They  had 

fourth  moon  (15th 

of  baggage  and  the 

Cossacks.    It  was 

al,  who  promised  a 

the  permission  was 

ke  preparations  for 

and  on  the  14th  of 

igements  for  setting 

in  the  capital  of  the 


ikovski,  is  similar  to 
I  salubrious,  even  for 
ages  of  the  pestilence 
ith  ice,  from  the  mid- 
rter  period ;  but  the 
er  ranges  from  ten  to 
83  than  at  St.  Peters- 
ason  of  squally  winds; 
3  months  of  June  and 
,  rains,  which  moisten 
le  waters,  in  sweeping 
iommit  great  ravages, 
ially  in  the  months  of 
air  is  mUd,  the  sky 

I,  called  King-ching,  or 
mrbs.  The  entire  cir- 
lich  are  built  of  bricks, 
lich  are  about  five  and 
r-one  feet,  and  they  are 
m.  There  are  sixteen 
seven  to  the  Chinese 

Y  are  not  paved,  but  the 
e  hundred  and  twenty- 
dai,  or  Great  Street  of 


TEMPLE    ON    A    MOUNTAIN. 


879 


Tranquillity,  is  full  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  in  width.  It  is  the 
most  beautiful  street  of  Pekin ;  it  runs  from  east  to  west,  and  is  bor- 
dered on  the  north,  in  part,  by  the  walls  of  the  imperial  palace,  m  the 
south  by  several  palaces  and  tribunals.  The  houses  of  the  city  are  very 
low,  often  containing  only  the  ground  floor ;  they  are  of  bricks  and  cov- 
ered with  gray  tiles.  The  tribunals  and  the  palaces  of  the  princes  are 
elevated  on  a  base,  and  have  beautiful  entrances;  the  palaces  are 
covered  with  green-glazed  tiles.  The  most  beautiful  edifices  of  Pekin 
.  are  the  temples ;  they  are  largo  and  magnificent,  ornamented  Avith  col- 
umns and  covered  with  superb  roofs  of  white  marble.  The  streets  are 
bordered  with  shops  finely  decorated ;  the  splendor  and  variety  of  mer- 
chandise exposed  to  the  public  eye  present,  in  many  quarters  of  the  city, 
a  very  agreeable  sight.  It  is  almost  impossible  for  a  stranger  to  know 
any  thing  positive  in  regard  to  the  population  of  the  capital  of  China,  or 
that  of  the  empire  itself,  for  the  government  does  not  keep  correct  lists 
of  births  and  deaths,  as  is  done  in  Europe  ;  but  from  vari  jus  means  of 
information  which  he  obtamed,  and  from  his  own  observations,  M. 
Timkovski  estimates  the  population  of  Pekin  at  two  millions. 

On  the  15th  of  May,  1821,  the  travelers  left  Pekin  on  their  return 
home.  The  thermometer  indicated  eighty-four  degrees,  Fahrenheit,  and 
next  day  the  heat  was  very  great.  As  they  proceeded  they  perceived 
mountains  in  the  distance,  especially  the  heights  of  Kiang-ching,  occu- 
pied by  a  brigade  of  artillery  fi-om  Pekin ;  they  like\vise  saw  the  white 
walls  of  the  castle  of  Ming-yuan,  and  the  pyramid  near  the  fountain  at 
which  water  is  drawn  for  the  emperor. 

On  their  journey  to  Pekin  they  had  seen  an  ancient  temple  situated 
on  a  mountain  near  the  fortress  of  Kee-ming,  to  which  the  access  was 
very  difficult ;  but  as  it  was  near  the  road,  and  the  weather  was  now 
pleasant,  they  determined  to  visit  it.  They  accordingly  set  out  from 
the  fort  under  the  guidance  of  a  peasant,  but  lost  their  way,  and  were 
soon  stopped  by  precipices  and  rocks.  M,  Timkovski  with  several  of  his 
companions  took  a  road  to  the  east,  and  after  great  difficulties  finally 
reached  the  temple.  The  rest  of  the  party,  who  took  a  southern  route, 
returned  without  seeing  any  thing.  The  steepness  of  the  mountain,  the 
projecting  rocks,  the  numerous  precipices,  and  the  violence  of  the  wind, 
made  them  almost  despair  of  attaining  their  object.  Overcome  with 
fatigue  they  took  each  other  by  the  hand  and  were  thus  continuing  their 
ascent,  when  the  barldng  of  a  dog  apprised  them  of  their  approach  to 
habitations.  After  another  difficult  passage,  by  a  route  which  led  to 
other  temples  further  up,  they  finally  reached  the  one  they  were  seek- 
ing. This  temple,  like  all  others,  is  built  of  bricks,  and  composed  of  sev- 
eral chapels  separated  from  each  other  and  filled  with  idols ;  near  it  was 
a  garden.  A  gigantic  rock  seemed  ready  to  fall  down  upon  the  temple 
and  crush  it.  They  met  with  no  one  but  the  guardian,  who  spoke  a 
little  Mongolese.  A  steep,  winding  path,  cut  in  the  rock,  led  to  the  top 
of  the  mountain.     It  is  difficult  to  conceive  the  motives  which  led  to  the 


_.„J 


880 


TIMKOVSKI'S   JOURNEY    TO    PEKIN. 


i^ii 


erection  of  such  a  monument  upon  this  nan-ow  ledge  of  the  mountam, 
rrrounded  by  precipices  and  exposed  to  tempests.  The  transporUtion 
Ine  of  the  materi^s  fiom  the  foot  of  the  mountam,  two  miles  distant, 
would  cost  a  vast  amount  of  labor  and  enormous  expense. 

lie  travelers  met  with  poor  lodgings  at  Khalgan;  their  neighbor 
were  playing  cards  and  making  a  great  deal  of  noise.    Here  they  like- 
w^e  r'ecJived  the  disagreeable  intelligence  that  for  want  of  or^e- Jrom 
the  tribunal  of  Pekin  for  the  continuation  of  their  journey  thc)  would 
be  obliged  to  remain  three  or  four  days.     On  the  24th  of  May  baymg 
received  their  pei-mission,  they  set  out  upon  the  route  by  Nor-tian. 
They  crold  over  mountains  where  there  was  still  a  quantity  of  snow 
whLh  had  fallen  in  abmidance  a  few  days  before.    It  was  still  cold  on 
t^Lghis;  the  wheat  and  rye  had  only  just  ^P-^^J^"^™  *^«  ^X^' 
while  at  Pekin  the  wheat  was  already  in  bloom.    When  they  left  Noi^ 
Tian  next  morning  a  thick  fog  obstructed  the  view ;  it  ^1-red  -ay 
toward  noon,  and  the  steppe  lay  spread  out  before  them.    The  freshnesa 
of  the  atmosphere  and  the  song  of  the  larks  revived  m  them  the  hope 
of  soon  beholding  their  native  country  again. 

On  the  4th  of  June  they  emerged  from  the  high  mountams  and  en- 
tered a  sandy  plain  which  forms  the  commencement  of  the  steppe  of 
Gobi    At  day'break  next  morning  the  wind  blew  rom  the  north  and 
the  cold  was  perceptible,  the  thermonaeter  ^"^icatrng  forty-three  d^ 
grees.    At  the  station  of  Khujir,  which  they  reached  on  the  9th,  the 
fandy  steppe  terminated;  it  has  an  extent  of  eighty  mdcs.    Beyond  this 
for  fifty  m^los  the  surface  is  gravelly  and  sterile.    On  the  steppe  the  cold 
was  ^times  keen  and  cutting,  and  at  others  the  ^^f /- ^--^ ' 
they  sometimes  passed  over  stony  heights,  sometimes  through  small  va^- 
eys  inclosing  the  bed  of  a  dried-up  stream.     After  ^omeaaj.ofih^ 
idnd  of  travelling  they  came,  on  the  19th,  ^o  Mou"t  Oolan^k^^^^^^^^^ 
separates  the  country  of  the  Sunites  from  that  of  the  Khalkas.    Just  be- 
Sne^hing  the  station  of  Gashoon  that  evening  they  were  met  by 
their  old  friend,  the  Tussulakhchi  Idam. 

At 'ength  they  approached  a  chain  of  mountains  which  seemed  to 
bar  up  the  way  before  them.    At  the  extremity  of  a  defile  they  found 
on    ho   21st,^the  station  of  Oude,  situated  iii  ^/'--y^'^l^^lZ 
rounded  by  mountains.    Oude,  in  Mo.golese,  sigmfies  gate ;  ij^^ 
of  the  defile  by  which  one  enters  the  mountains.    North  of  this  dehle 
Lieseitof  G^obi  is  said  properly  to  begin:  -;<>PP«  f^^^f  tTtS 
of  wood,  and  of  vegetation,  which  extends  two  hundred  miles,  to  the 
habTtatio'ns  of  the  wandering  Tsakhars.    After  pursuing  the.  rout^^^^^^ 
nearly  a  month  through  this  desolate  region,  where  the  J^''^^^  ^^  f/" 
interrupted  by  granite  hills  and  stony  valleys,  they  finally,  on  the  14th 
T^ZtJ.^<>^  the  summit  of  Mount  KhaiiK^oK    T^-  J-  - 
remarkable  as  the  last  one  in  Mongolia,  g«>°g/f  ^^^^r.^'/jf  *^,^  ^ty 
in  returning,  that  is  covered  with  woods.     A  few  miles  further  they 
reached  MSmit  Scoudji,  one  of  the  highest  of  the  cham,  which  they 


■H 


KIN. 

I  of  the  mountain, 
The  transportation 
,  two  miles  distant, 
snse. 

m ;  their  neighbors 
3,  Here  they  like- 
ant  of  orders  from 
journey  thc}  would 
tth  of  May,  having 
route  by  Nor-tian. 
a  quantity  of  snow. 
It  was  still  cold  on 
cd  from  the  ground, 
iThcn  they  left  Nor- 
w;  it  cleared  away 
iiem.  The  freshness 
ed  in  them  the  hope 

;h  mountains  and  en- 
nt  of  the  steppe  of 
from  the  north,  and 
iting  forty-three  de- 
hed  on  the  9th,  the 
r  miles.    Beyond  this 
n  the  Btcppe  the  cold 
heat  was  oppressive ; 
les  through  small  val- 
uer some  days  of  this 
Oolan-khadah,  which 
le  Khalkas.    Just  be- 
ig  they  were  met  by 


ins  which  seemed  to 
>f  a  defile  they  found, 
a  stony  valley,  sur- 
nifies  gate ;  the  name 
North  of  this  defile 
;eppe  devoid  of  water, 
[lundred  miles,  to  the 
rsuing  their  route  for 
•e  the  surface  is  often 
ey  finally,  on  the  14th 
ola.    Tliis  mountain  is 
iithward,  and  the  first 
ew  miles  further  they 
the  chain,  which  they 


RETURN    TO    SIBERIA. 


881 


asccnc!ed  with  much  difficulty  by  n  steep  and  rocky  road ;  thence  by  a 
dangerous  descent  they  came  to  the  station  of  Seoudji. 

It  was  with  extreme  satisfaction  that  they  beheld  the  rapid  current 
•f  the  T61a,  upon  whose  banks  they  arrived  next  day ;  it  formed  the 
boundary  of  the  desert  steppes  which  they  had  been  so  long  traversing. 
At  five  in  the  evening  they  arrived  at  the  Ourga.  Here  they  rested  a 
while  from  the  fatigues  of  the  journey,  and  were  meanwhile  received 
in  a  friendly  manner  by  the  vang. 

On  the  19th  of  July,  they  continued  their  journey.  As  an  especial 
honor  they  were  escorted  to  the  first  station  by  a  dzanghin  and  ten 
Mongolesc,  armed  with  bowa  and  arrows.  The  mountains  and  valleys 
near  the  banks  of  the  Burgultai  were  carpeted  with  flowers  and  beauti- 
ful verdure ;  a  sight  which  they  had  not  beheld  south  of  the  Ourga. 
They  crossed  the  Mantagai  Mountains,  whose  rocky  sides  arc  covered 
with  pines,  birch,  aspen,  and  a  variety  of  shrubs,  and  came  to  the  Bain- 
oola  River  on  the  25th,  Mount  Ouloii,  which  they  passed  on  the  27th, 
is  very  picturesque.  Its  sides  are  covered  with  pines,  birch  and  as})en 
trees,  wild  roses,  etc.  The  Shara-gol  bathes  its  foot ;  the  neighboring 
plain  abounds  in  luxuriant  vegetation,  sprinkled  with  elms.  Beyond, 
they  saw  a  temple  with  its  red  roof,  above  which  rose  a  chain  of  mount- 
ains, crowned  with  forests  of  pine.  In  all  Mongolia  they  saw  no  district 
so  well  adapted  to  agriculture. 

On  the  31st  they  reached  Ghilan-nor,  the  last  station  before  Kiakh- 
ta.  At  the  extremity  of  a  forest  they  came  in  sight  of  the  town.  This 
view  made  them  forget  all  their  toils.  The  weather  was  becoming  very 
warm ;  the  mountains  around  were  covered  with  wheat  ready  for  har- 
vest. Arrived  at  the  station,  two  interpreters  of  the  custom-house  of 
Kiakhta,  in  behalf  of  the  director,  brought  them  bread  and  salt,  in  con- 
gratulation of  their  happy  arrival. 

At  eight  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  August  1st,  they  were  visited  by 
M.  Goliakhovski,  the  director  of  the  custom-house,  and  other  employees, 
the  ataman  tf  the  Buriate  light-guard,  and  two  ttadsd  of  Selenghinsk,  in 
company  with  whom,  at  ten  o'clock,  they  finally  entered  Kiakhta,  and 
found  themselves  again  on  Kussiaa  soil. 


J 


CAPTAIN    COCHRANE'S 


PEDESTRIAN    JOURNEY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 


In  the  month  of  January,  1820,  Cj^tain  John  Dundas  Cochrane, 
of  the  British  navy,  addressed  a  letter  to  the  secretary  of  the  Lords 
Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  offering  to  undertake  a  journey  into 
the  interior  of  Africa,  which  should  have  for  its  object  the  ascertaining 
of  the  course  and  termination  of  the  Niger.  Captain  Cochrane  had 
already  traversed  France,  Spain,  and  Portugal,  on  foot,  and  had  been 
for  years  accustomed  to  undergo  great  fatigues  and  privations,  among 
which  ho  enumerates  two  trips  from  Quebec  to  Lake  Ontario  in  com- 
pany with  six  hundred  seamen,  whose  wry  faces  and  swollen  feet  told 
hira  that  ho  was  more  of  a  pedestrian  traveler  than  they.  He  was 
therefore  confident  of  success  in  his  undertaking,  in  which  he  intended 
to  go  alone,  requiring  only  to  be  furnished  with  the  countenance  of  some 
constituent  part  of  the  government. 

The  answer  from  the  Admiralty  was  unfavorable,  but  the  captain, 
who  thought  his  plan  more  than  ordinarily  feasible  to  one  "  who  had 
been  roasted  in  some  of  the  worst  corners  of  the  West  Indies,  during 
a  period  of  nearly  ten  years'  service,  without  so  much  as  a  headache," 
was  not  wholly  disheartened.  "Finding,  howevrer,"  says  he,  "that  a 
young  commander  like  myself  was  not  likely  to  be  employed  afloat, 
much  less  ashore,  I  determined  to  undertake  a  journey,  varying  only 
the  object  and  the  scene,  similar  to  that  of  the  unfortunate  Ledyard, 
viz.,  to  travel  round  the  globe,  as  nearly  as  can  be  done  by  land,  crossing 
from  Northern  Asia  to  America,  at  Behring's  Straits ;  I  also  determined 
to  perform  the  journey  on  foot,  for  the  best  of  all  possible  reasons,  that 
my  finances  allowed  of  no  other.  Having  procured  two  years'  leave  of 
absence  I  prepared  to  traverse  the  continents  of  Europe,  Asia,  and 
America." 

Having  filled  his  knapsack  with  such  articles  as  seemed  requisite  to 
enable  him  to  wander  among  the  wilds  of  three  quarters  of  the  globe, 
he  left  London  in  the  packet-boat  for  Dieppe,  and  on  the  14th  of  Feb- 
ruary set  forward  through  France  and  Germany,  toward  St.  Peters- 


884 


COCIIRANE'S   JOURNEY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 


burg,  where  he  arrived  on  the  30th  of  April  (0.  S.)  Ills  route  lay 
Ihrou^^h  Paris,  Frankfort,  Leipsic,  Berlin,  Dantzic,  Konigsbcrg,  and  other 
important  cities,  in  which  ho  halted  to  repose  from  the  great  fatigues  of 
the  journey,  and  to  examine  the  objects  of  interest  that  were  to  be 
seen.  Ilis  clothes  were  m  tatters,  and  liis  shoes  worn  out  by  this  trip  of 
sixteen  hundred  miles,  during  an  inclement  season,  yet  on  his  arrival  at 
the  Russian  capital  he  cheerfully  continued  the  arrangements  for  pur- 
suing his  journey  into  the  remotest  wilds  of  that  empire. 

Through  the  influence  of  Sir  Daniel  Bailey,  the  British  Consul  Gene- 
ral, who  was  an  able  advocate  of  his  plans,  Captain  Cochrane  gained  the 
favor  of  Count  Nesselrode,  the  Foreign  Minister,  and  of  Count  Kochou- 
bey,  to  whom  his  affair  was  intrusted.  He  not  only  obtained  the  cus- 
tomary passport  and  a  letter  to  the  Governor  General  of  Siberia,  but  also 
two  oHicial  documents  signed  by  the  minister,  calling  upon  the  author- 
ities of  all  the  to\vns  and  provinces  lying  on  his  route  from  St.  Petersburg 
to  Kamtchatka,  to  aid  him  on  his  journey,  and  afford  him  lawful  de- 
fense and  protection  in  case  of  need.  The  emperor  likewise  offered  him 
pecuniary  assistance  in  the  outset,  which  ho  declined. 

On  tlie  24th  of  May  (O.  S.),  he  set  out  from  St.  Petersburg.  He 
carried  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Prince  Theodore  Galitzin,  who  occu- 
pied the  Imperial  Palace  at  Tzarsko  Selo,  but  on  his  arrival  at  midnight, 
he  found  the  palace  wrapped  in  flames.  After  mingling  awhile  with  the 
crowd  in  extinguishing  the  conflagration,  he  retired  to  the  gardens,  and 
spent  a  few  hours  of  the  first  night  of  his  journey  lying  in  the  open  air 
upon  the  grass.  Having  breakfasted  with  Prince  Theodore,  he  pro- 
ceeded toward  Tosna,  where  he  arrived  at  seven  in  the  evening.  He 
thus  contiimes  the  narrative  of  liis  adventures  next  day:  "  I  passed  the 
night  in  the  cottage  of  a  farmer,  resigning  myself  to  the  attacks  and  an- 
noyance of  such  vermin  as  generally  haunt  impoverished  dwellings,  and 
was  therefore  proportionably  pleased  in  the  morning  to  pursue  my  jour- 
ney. My  route  was  toward  Liubane,  at  about  the  ninth  mile-stone  from 
which  I  sat  down,  to  smoke  a  segar  or  pipe,  as  fancy  might  indicate ;  I 
wa«  suddenly  seized  from  behind  by  two  ruffians,  whose  visages  were  as 
much  concealed  as  the  oddness  of  their  dress  would  permit.  One  of 
them,  who  held  an  iron  bar  in  his  hand,  dragged  me  by  the  collar  toward 
the  forest,  while  the  other,  with  a  bayoneted  musket,  pushed  me  on  in 
such  a  manner  us  to  make  me  move  with  more  than  ordinary  celerity :  a 
boy,  auxiliary  to  these  vagabonds,  was  stationed  on  the  road-side  to  keep 
a  look-out. 

"  We  had  got  some  sixty  or  eighty  paces  into  the  thickest  part  of  the 
forest,  when  I  was  desired  to  undress,  and  having  stripped  off"  my  trow- 
sers  and  jacket,  then  my  sb'>*t,  and,  finally,  my  shoes  and  stockings,  they 
proceeded  to  tic  me  to  :.  n-er,.  From  this  ceremony,  and  from  the  man- 
ner of  it,  I  fully  concluded  that  they  intended  to  try  the  effect  of  a  mus- 
ket upon  me,  by  firing  at  me  as  they  would  at  a  mark.  I  was,  however, 
reserved  for  fresh  scenes ;  the  villains,  with  much  mng  froidt  seated 


..^.i- 


'    I    IHW] 


IBERIA. 

.)  His  route  lay 
igsberg,  and  other 
great  fatigues  of 
that  were  to  bo 
out  by  this  trip  of 
on  his  arrival  at 
ngements  for  pur- 
re. 

itish  Consul  Gene- 
ochrane  gained  the 
of  Count  Kochou- 
/  obtained  the  cus- 
of  Siberia,  but  also 
g  upon  the  author- 
from  St.  Petersburg 
3rd  him  lawful  de- 
ikewise  offered  him 

5t.  Petersburg.    He 
Galitzin,  who  occu- 
arrival  at  midnight, 
;ling  awhile  with  the 
to  the  gardens,  and 
lying  in  the  open  Mr 
5  Theodore,  he  pro- 
in  the  evening.    He 
day:  "I  passed  the 
)  the  attacks  and  an- 
rished  dwellings,  and 
g  to  pursue  my  jour- 
ninth  mile-stone  from 
cy  might  indicate ;  ! 
?ho8e  visages  were  as 
luld  permit.     One  of 
3  by  the  collar  toward 
jket,  pushed  me  on  in 
a  ordinary  celerity :  a 
I  the  road-side  to  keep 

le  thickest  part  of  the 
stripped  off  my  trow- 
es  and  stockings,  they 
ly,  and  from  the  man- 
ry  the  effect  of  a  mus- 
ark.  I  was,  however, 
sh  sang  froid,  seated 


PLUNDERED    BT   ROBBERS. 


885 


themselves  at  my  feet,  and  rifled  my  knapsack  and  pockets,  even  cutting 
out  the  linings  of  the  clothes  in  search  of  bank-bills  or  some  other  valu- 
able articles.  They  then  compelled  me  to  take  at  least  a  pound  of  black 
bread,  and  a  glass  of  rum,  poured  from  a  small  flask  which  bad  been  sus- 
pended from  my  neck.  Having  appropriated  my  trowsers,  shirts,  stock- 
ings, and  English  shooting  shoes,  as  also  my  spectacles,  watch,  compass, 
thermometer,  and  small  pocket-sextant,  with  160  roubles  (about  £1), 
they  at  length  released  me  from  the  tree,  and,  at  the  point  of  a  sttletio, 
made  me  swear  that  I  would  not  inform  against  them — such,  at  least,  I 
conjectured  to  be  their  meaning,  though  of  their  language  I  understood 
not  a  word. 

"  Having  received  my  promise,  I  was  again  treated  to  bread  and  rum, 
and  once  more  fastened  to  the  tree,  in  which  condition  they  finally  aban- 
doned me.  Not  long  after,  a  boy  who  was  passing  heard  my  cries,  and 
set  me  at  liberty.  I  did  not  doubt  he  was  sent  by  my  late  companions 
upon  so  considerate  an  errand,  and  felt  so  far  grateful ;  though  it  might 
require  something  more  than  common  charity  to  forgive  their  depriving 
me  of  my  shirt  and  trowsers,  and  leaving  me  almost  as  naked  as  I  came 
into  the  world. 

"  To  pursue  my  route,  or  return  to  Tzarsko  Selo,  would,  indeed,  be 
alike  indecent  and  ridiculous,  but  being  so,  and  there  being  no  remedy, 
I  made  therefore  'forward'  the  order  of  the  day ;  having  first,  with  the 
remnant  of  my  apparel,  rigged  myself  d  V  JOcossGisc,  I  resumed  my  route. 
I  had  still  left  me  a  blue  jacket,  a  flannel  waistcoat,  and  a  spare  one,  which 
I  tied  round  my  waist  in  such  a  manner  that  it  i  cached  down  to  the 
knees :  my  empty  knapsack  was  restored  to  its  old  place,  and  I  trotted 
on  with  even  a  merry  heart." 

Within  a  few  miles  he  passed  between  files  of  soldiers,  employed  in 
making  a  new  road,  under  the  orders  of  General  Woronoff.  The  gen- 
eral received  him  with  kindness,  administered  food  and  refreshments, 
and  then  offered  him  clothing,  but  the  captain  declined  and  soon  after- 
ward proceeded  on  his  journey.  He  rode  in  the  general's  carriage, 
which  was  directed  to  take  him  to  the  first  station,  but  finding  carriage- 
riding  cold  he  preferred  walking,  barefooted  as  he  was,  and  in  this  man- 
ner he  approached  Novgorod  next  day,  passing  by  the  way  through 
many  large  villages  and  a  fertile  and  jKjpulons  country.  "  Crossing  the 
bridge,"  he  continues,  "  I  entered  the  city  at  two  o'clock,  and  imme- 
diately waited  on  the  governor.  He  would  have  provided  me  Wi  h 
clothing  on  the  instant ;  I  was,  however,  hungry,  and  requested  food. 
The  governor  smiled,  but  assented,  and  I  then  accepted  a  shirt  and 
trowsers."  Meanwhile  he  obtained  good  quarters  at  the  house  of  a 
merchant  to  whom  he  h.ad  a  letter  of  introduction,  and  who  kindly 
fiimished  him  with  a  complete  refit.  As  ho  was  pursuing  his  journey, 
»  few  days  afterward,  he  received  two  nibles  as  charity  from  the  master 
of  a  post-house,  from  whom  he  ha<l  also  received  refreshment  gratis. 
"  Knowing  a£  I  did,"  says  he,  "  that  assistance  was  at  hand,  I  declined 

flfi 


"::■••■ 


386 


COCURANE'S   JOURNEY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 


the  money,  allliough  my  then  distrcascd  state  might  have  warranteil  my 
open  ai'i't'ptanee  of  it.  I  cuiitiniieil  my  route,  lui  J  upon  luy  arrival  at 
the  next  station  I  found  the  money  in  my  cap. 

"  I  entered  Moscow  at  eight  o'cloek  on  the  morning  of  June  5th, 
the  last  stage  being  distressingly  fatiguing.  JSIucli  rain  fell  and  I  wiis 
not  a  little  happy  to  reach  the  hospitable  abode  of  Mr.  Uowan  in  time 
for  breakfast.  The  last  thirty-two  hours  I  warrant  as  bearing  witness 
to  one  of  my  greatest  pedestrian  trips — the  distance  is  one  hundred  and 
sixty-eight  versts,  or  about  ninety-six  miles ;  I  have,  however,  done  the 
same  in  Portugal." 

After  leaving  Moscow  he  sometimes  traveled  by  night  to  avoid  the 
heat  of  the  sun.  His  way  of  life  seems  to  have  excited  an  interest  among 
the  peasants,  who  frequently  divided  their  meals  and  shared  their  dwell- 
ings with  him,  with  the  most  cordial  good  will.  When  he  showed  them 
liis  passports  they  thought  such  a  favor  had  never  before  been  granted. 
At  one  time  we  find  him  washing  his  linen  by  the  wayside,  and  then 
lying  down  under  a  bridge  to  enjoy  a  sound  sleep,  while  his  clothing 
was  dried  in  the  sun ;  at  another  sleeping  contentedly  in  the  open  air, 
or  under  such  shelter  as  he  chanced  to  find,  after  having  spent  the  day 
without  food.  Once  he  lialted  at  midnight  near  a  pretty  village  on  the 
banks  of  a  lake,  where  he  was  greatly  charmed  with  the  singing  of  some 
boys  and  girls,  accompanied  by  a  simple  two-stringed  instrument; 
"  but,"  he  continues,  "  the  beauty  of  the  night  prompted  me  to  con- 
tiime  my  route,  and  I  left  the  happy  villagers  for  Pogost,  twenty-four 
miles,  where  I  arrived  half  famished  and  quite  fatigued,  not  having 
tasted  food  during  twenty-four  Imurs,  and  a  march  of  forty  miles. 
Being  too  jaded  to  proceed  further  I  thought  myself  fortunate  in  being 
able  to  pass  the  night  in  a  cask  ;  nor  did  I  think  this  mode  of  passing 
the  night  a  novel  one ;  often,  very  often,  have  I,  in  the  fastnesses  of 
Spain  and  Portugal,  passed  the  night  in  a  similar  style.  Here  I  usurp 
the  place  of  crockery,  there  I  usurped  that  of  wine ;  here  in  the  land  of 
liberality,  there  in  that  of  nonentity." 

At  Lower  Novgorod  he  was  entertained  by  Baron  Rode,  to  whom 
he  carried  a  recommendatory  letter.  "He  received  me  kindly,"  says 
Captain  Cochrane,  "  placing  me  for  board  in  liis  o^vn  house ;  while  for 
lodging  I  preferred  the  open  air  of  his  garden  ;  there,  with  my  knap- 
sack for  a  pillow  I  passed  the  night  more  pleasantly  than  I  should  have 
done  on  a  bed  of  down,  which  the  baron  most  sincerely  pressed  me  to 
accept.  His  excellency  the  governor  received  me  with  customary  at- 
tention ;  but  I  w.'is  not  so  fortunate  as  to  meet  his  amiable  lady,  an 
Englishwoman.  The  truth  was,  her  servant  would  not  admit  me, 
judging,  no  doubt,  from  the  length  of  my  beard  and  the  shabbiness  of 
my  dress,  that  I  must  be  a  Jew,  or  something  worse.  Thus  denied,  I 
embarked,  in  a  freak  of  fancy,  on  board  a  lighter  bound  to  Kazan,  the 
better  to  enjoy  tho  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Volga."    The  captam  en- 


:beria. 

nvc  wiirranteil  my 
,jon  luy  arrivul  at 

tihig  of  June  5th, 
rain  fell  and  I  was 
Ir.  liowan  in  tiniu 
18  bearing  witness 
J  one  hundred  and 
lowever,  done  the 

night  to  avoid  the 
I  an  interest  among 
shared  their  dwell- 
in  ho  showed  them 
fore  been  granted, 
wayside,  and  then 
,  while  his  clothing 
dly  in  the  open  air, 
iving  spent  the  day 
•etty  village  on  the 
the  singing  of  some 
ringed  instrument; 
jmpted  me  to  con- 
Pogost,  twenty-four 
itigued,  not  having 
roll  of  forty  miles. 
If  fortunate  in  being 
lis  mode  of  passing 
n  the  fastnesses  of 
style.  Here  I  usurp 
;  here  in  the  land  of 

iron  Rode,  to  whom 
ed  me  kindly,"  says 
,wn  house ;  while  for 
here,  with  my  knap- 
Y  than  I  should  have 
iccrely  pressed  me  to 
e  with  customary  at- 
his  amiable  lady,  an 
•ould  not  admit  me, 
and  the  shabbiness  of 
orse.    Thus  denied,  I 
■  bound  to  Kazan,  the 
ga."    The  captain  en- 


RUS8IAN    HOSPITALITY. 


887 


tered  as  one  of  the  crew,  working  his  jcissage,  and  arrived  at  Kazan  on 
the  22d  of  June,  after  a  passaj^o  of  twelve  days. 

On  the  25th  he  set  forward  in  a  vehicle  funiishod  by  the  governor, 
which  conveyed  him  to  Perm  in  four  days.  lie  was  so  thoroughly  fa- 
tigued by  the  jolting,  and  was,  moreover,  so  little  pleased  with  the  se- 
verity of  the  jiostillion  toward  the  peasantry,  that  ho  was  glad  to  resume 
his  journey  on  foot.  In  a  few  days  he  reached  the  Ural  Mountains,  and 
crossing  the  boundaries  between  Europe  and  Asia,  arrived  at  Jekatha- 
rinenburg. 

"  On  reaching  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Ural  chain,"  he  observes,  "  I 
could  not  help  remarking  th.it  the  inhabitants  of  all  the  villages  were 
much  more  civil,  more  hospitable,  and  more  cleanly  dressed  ;  and  in  no 
one  instance  would  they  accejjt  of  money  for  the  food  I  had  occasion  to 
procure.  I  never  entered  a  cottage  but  shtshce  (a  cabbage  soup),  with 
meat,  milk,  and  bread  were  immediately  placed  before  me  unasked ; 
nor  could  any  entreaty  of  mine  induce  them  to  receive  a  higher  reward 
than  a  pipe  of  tobacco,  or  a  glass  of  vodka  (whisky).  In  short,  to  pre- 
vent uselessly  troubling  the  inhabitants,  I  was  obliged  to  consign  my 
nearly  exhausted  purse  to  the  care  of  my  knapsack,  renotmcing  the  hack- 
neyed and  unsocial  custom  of  paying  for  food.  Among  other  proofs  of 
their  civility,  or  rather  of  the  interest  which  Russians  take  in  foreigners, 
as  well  as  the  means  they  have  of  making  themselves  understood,  one 
very  strong  one  occurred  to  nic  in  a  small  village.  I  had  learned  so 
much  of  the  language  as  to  know  that  kchorosho  is  the  Russian  word 
for  ice//,  but  not  that  kchudo  was  the  translation  for  had.  My  host 
being  a  good  sort  of  a  blunt  fellow,  Avas  discoursing  upon  the  impro- 
priety of  traveling  as  I  did.  As  I  could  not  comprehend  him,  I  was 
impatient  to  go,  but  he  persisted  in  detaining  me  till  he  had  made  me 
understand  the  meaning  of  kchudo.  My  extreme  stupidity  oflTered  a 
powerful  barrier  to  his  design ;  but  a  smart  slap  on  one  cheek  and  a  kiss 
on  the  other,  followed  by  the  Avords  kchudo,  and  kchorosho,  soon 
cured  my  dullness,  and  I  laughed  heartily  in  spite  of  this  mode  of  in- 
struction." 

After  reaching  Tobolsk,  he  resolved  to  make  an  excursion,  by  way 
of  Omsk,  to  the  Chinese  frontier.  The  Governor  General  accordingly 
supplied  him  with  a  Cossack,  as  well  as  a  special  order  for  horses,  if  he 
should  deem  them  necessary,  and  for  every  assistance  he  might  require. 
At  the  Tartar  villages  beyond  Tobolsk,  he  was  hospitably  received,  but 
after  he  had  advanced  into  the  steppe  he  met  with  an  unpleasant  inci- 
dent, which  he  thus  relates :  "  At  Toukalinsk,  I  had  the  misfortune  to 
lose  what  was  to  me  my  all— ray  passport,  papers,  and  every  protection 
in  Siberia.  In  vain  I  addressed  the  commissary ;  in  vain  I  offered  a 
guinea  for  their  recovery ;  in  vain  T  jiointed  out  the  rogue  who  had 
taken  them  in  the  tin  case  from  tip  seat  while  I  was  at  dinner.  I  begged, 
intrcated,  insisted,  threatened,  abused ;  all  was  to  no  purpose ;  and  I 
was  finally  constrained  to  go  without  them.     By  this  terrible  disaster  I 


388 


COCIIRANE'S    JOUKNKY    THROUGH    SIBKRIA. 


■.-' 
^ 


wtw  cntiroly  dcprivod  of  all  testimony  of  iiiyfldf,  my  conncotionN,  or  the 
object  of  my  jouriiuy,  and  lay  at  the  mercy  of  any  one  who  might  choose 
to  provide  mc  with  largo  but  cheap  lodgings. 

"  On  my  arrival  at  Omsk,  I  of  coudo  presented  myRelf  to  the  inprnv- 
nick,  or  head  commissary,  and  made  known  my  loss  in  as  good  language 
as  I  could.  I  failed  in  making  him  understand  me,  but  he  humanely 
gave  me  good  lodgings  until  he  could  procure  the  presence  of  one  of  the 
military  officers,  to  act  as  an  interpreter.  This  was  done  the  nc\t  day. 
In  the  mean  time,  I  addressed  a  letter  to  the  Governor  (Jencral  and  gover- 
nor of  Tobolsk,  requesting  an  attested  copy  of  the  documents  I  had  lost, 
and  which  I  had  taken  the  precaution  to  have  made  there.  The  ]H)Iicc- 
master  invited  me  to  dine  with  him,  though  he  confessed  ho  could  not 
xmderstand  either  my  object  or  character.  lie  was,  however,  soon  satis- 
fied by  the  arrival  of  an  express  with  my  passports,  etc.,  all  complete. 
Thus  was  I,  from  a  state  of  suspicion  and  surveillance,  again  restored  to 
society.  I  should  bo  very  ungrateful,  were  I  not  to  do  justice  hero  to 
the  conduct  of  the  commissary,  who  kindly  went  eighty  miles,  upon  my  ac- 
count, to  enforce  the  return  of  the  pa{)cr8,  which,  being  in  a  tin  case,  in- 
duced the  party  to  suspect  money  was  there.  All  that  I  had,  was,  how- 
ever, in  my  knapsack,  and  that  did  not  amount  to  £5. 

"  Omsk  is  situated  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Irtysch,  at  the  junction 
of  the  Om.  The  surrounding  country  is  a  vast,  level  plain,  the  soil  of 
which  is  fertile,  though  not  extensively  cultivated.  Opposite,  is  the  ter- 
ritory of  the  wandering  Kirghiz ;  presenting  no  appearance  of  cultiva- 
t  ion  or  dwellings.  A  considerable  trade  is  carried  on  with  them,  as  also 
with  the  Calmucks  to  the  south,  which  consists  in  the  barter  of  cattle, 
etc.,  for  tobacco  and  spirits.  Several  children  of  each  of  these  tribes  are 
to  bo  seen  in  Omsk,  who  arc  slaves,  having  been  sold  by  their  parents 
for  a  pound  of  tobacco  or  a  glass  of  spirits. 

"  The  Calmucloi,  who,  like  the  Kirghiz,  mako  no  scruple  to  dispose 
of  their  children  upon  any  momentary  distress  or  want  of  spirits,  are  yet 
a  different  race,  both  with  respect  to  features  and  origin.  They  are, 
however,  their  equals  in  idleness,  and  filth,  and  follow  the  same  vajpibond 
way  of  life.  The  Calmucks  are,  notwithstanding,  the  direct  descendants 
of  the  Mongolese,  who  emigrated  hither  after  the  destruction  of  their  em- 
pire. Very  few  are  subject  to  Russda,  a  great  part  of  them  living  in  Chi- 
nese Mongolia,  while  the  rest  of  them,  under  the  protection  of  Russia, 
roam  about  the  countries  situate  between  the  Don  and  'V  olga  and  the  Ural 
mountains.  Their  features  will  forever  mark  them,  in  whatever  part  of 
the  world ;  the  flat  tace,  small  and  elongated  eyes,  broad  nose,  high  cheek 
bones,  thick  lips,  and  brownish  yellow  complexion,  are  sure  signs  of  their 
Mongolian  descent.  They  arc  obliging,  but  inquisitive  and  diahonest ; 
yet,  with  a  little  Russian  education  and  discipline,  they  make  good  serr- 
unts.  I  ate  and  drank  with  them,  as  also  with  the  Kirghiz,  upon  roasted 
meat,  without  bread,  or  any  thing  else,  save  a  glass  of  spirits  and  a  pipe 
of  tobacco."  •,  ' 


IKRIA. 

inc(!tionH,  or  the 
ho  might  choose 

elf  to  the  i«prnv- 
18  good  language 
ut  ho  humanely 
nee  of  one  of  the 
ic  the  ncA.t  day. 
oncral  and  gover- 
nicnts  I  had  lust, 
ere.  The  i»oUcc- 
iod  ho  could  not 
ivover.  Boon  Hatis- 
Btc,  all  complete, 
again  restored  to 

0  justice  hero  to 
miles,  upon  my  ac- 
i(  in  a  tin  case,  in- 
,  I  had,  was,  how- 

[h,  at  the  junction 
plMn,  the  soil  of 
pposite,  ia  the  ter- 
arance  of  cultiva- 
With  them,  as  also 
B  barter  of  cattle, 
of  these  tribes  are 

1  by  their  parents 

scruple  to  dispose 
t  of  spirits,  are  yet 
origin.    They  are, 
the  same  vagabond 
direct  descendants 
ruction  of  their  em- 
them  living  in  Chi- 
)tection  of  Russia, 
'V  olga  and  the  Ural 
u  whatever  part  of 
ad  nose,  high  check 
B  sure  signs  of  their 
ivc  and  dishonest; 
oy  make  good  scrv- 
irghiz,  upon  roasted 
>f  spirits  and  a  pipe 


TRIP    TO   THK    CHIXK.SE    FRONTIER. 


380 


Leaving  Omsk,  Captain  Cochrane,  att(>ndcd  by  a  military  Cossark, 
proct'odcd  southward  by  the  line  of  fortresses  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Irtysch,  and  in  a  few  days  reached  Kemipalatinsk,  a  fortress  with  nearly 
one  thousand  soldiers.  "  I  (juitted  Hvmipalatinsk  late  in  the  evening," 
he  writes,  "and  directed  my  steiw  for  Ubinsk,  along  the  banks  of  a  little 
stream  which  gives  name  to  the  fortress,  and  which  unites  with  the 
Irtysch.  I  had  entered  a  kibitka  whii>h  was  piissing  the  same  way,  an<l 
at  some  distance  obser\'cd  the  postilion  turn  off  suddenly  to  the  right. 
My  mind  misgave  me,  because  in  no  instance  before  had  I  deviated  from 
the  high-roa<l.  I  recollected,  also,  that  the  Cossack  and  fiostilion  wen! 
both  half  drunk,  and  had  been  m  earnest  and  secret  conversation ;  I 
therefore  determined  to  quit  by  a  nhort  movement.  It  was  ten  at  night, 
and  wo  were  in  a  low  thick  brushwood,  when,  taking  my  knapsack,  I 
suddenly  quitted  the  vehicle,  informing  them,  as  well  as  I  could  by  signs, 
and  an  obstinate  persistence  not  to  go  their  way,  that  if  they  were  bouiwl 
as  thoy  had  pretended  they  would  follow  me.  I  continued  alone,  and 
regained  the  main  road ;  the  vehicle  also  tacked  and  came  after  mo,  but 
I  refused  to  re-enter  it,  and  marched  on  to  the  next  station,  keeping 
them  at  a  respectful  distance  all  the  way.  On  my  arrival  I  discharged 
the  Cossack,  without,  however,  reporting  his  conduct  to  the  German 
commandant,  as  I  perhaps  ought  to  have  done." 

At  Bukbtarminsk  he  procured  a  guide  and  went  on  toward  the 
boundary.  Having  arrived  at  Macaria,  he  thus  proceeds :  "The  night 
was  so  beautiful,  the  moon  just  ascending  above  the  hills,  that,  in  spite 
of  a  good  supper  which  was  ready  and  inviting  my  attack,  I  resumed 
my  journey  on  horseback,  in  company  with  the  landlord,  to  Malaya- 
Narymka,  the  last  Russian  spot  on  the  frontier.  An  officer  and  a  few 
men  placed  here,  are  all  that  are  left  trf  mark  the  boundaries  of  two 
such  mighty  empires  as  Russia  and  China.  I  fi}rded  the  little  stream 
which  forms  the  actual  limit,  and  seating  myself  on  a  stone  on  the  left; 
bank,  was  soon  lost  in  a  reverie.  It  was  about  midnight ;  the  moon, 
apparently  full,  was  near  her  meridian,  and  seemed  to  encourage  a  pen- 
sive inclination.  What  can  surpass  that  scene  I  know  not.  Some  of 
the  loftiest  granite  mountains  spreading  in  various  directions,  inclosing 
some  of  the  most  luxuriant  valleys  in  the  world  ;  yet  all  deserted ! — all 
this  fair  and  fertile  tract  abandoned  to  wild  beasts,  merely  to  constitute 
a  neutral  territory  I  To  the  first  Chinese  settlement  it  is  eighty  miles ;  I 
would  fiiin  have  visited  it,  but  durst  not  without  previous  notice,  and  for 
this  ceremony  could  ill  spare  the  time." 

Returning,  he  embarked  on  the  Irtysch  and  descended  the  river  by 
stages  to  Udinsk,  whence  he  proceeded,  with  a  Cossack,  to  Bnmaoul. 
On  his  arrival  he  found  groat  preparations  for  receiving  the  Governor 
General  Speranski,  whom  he  was  anxious  to  meet.  His  excellency  ar- 
rived on  the  second  day,  and  Captain  Cochrane  met  him  at  the  public 
dinners  given  in  his  honor,  where  he  himself  became  a  conspicuous  ob- 
ject.    His  hair  and  beard  were  long,  he  wore  a  long  swaddling  gray 


890 


C0CURANK8    JOUKNKY    THIlOUail    8IBE1UA. 


s 


nankeen  coat,  iiiul  a  silken  wish  around  liis  waist:  "Indec.l,"  remarks 
li.e  captain,  "  so  yreat  a  buek  had  I  become  of  late  tliat  1  iiardly  knew 
ni\  rtclf."  Having  laid  \m  plans  before  the  Governor  (Iciurai,  the  eaptam 
continues:  "Ho  told  me  that  there  wad  an  expedition  on  the  river 
Kolyma,  fitted  out  purposely  to  solve  the  cpiestion  regarding  the  north- 
east cape  of  Asia;  and  his  excellency  khidly  offere.l  mo  his  pernnssion 
ti)  proceed  witli  it.  Too  glad  to  accept  a  favor  of  the  kin<l,  I  instantly 
closed  with  the  offer,  and  determined  not  to  wait  a  moment  in  Irkutsk 
and  Yakutsk  beyoml  the  necessary  time,  but  to  proceed  immediately  to 
the  Frozen  Scis  either  to  share  tho  fortune,  good  or  bad,  of  the  expe- 
dition or,  in  case  of  any  impediment  from  jealousy,  to  withdraw  and 
follow  some  other  plan.  The  Governor  General  supplied  me  with  various 
orders  and  reconunendations  for  whatever  places  I  should  visit." 

With  this  valuable  recommendation  ho  hastened  forward,  attended 
by  a  Cossack.  At  Tomsk,  the  governor  presented  him  with  fifty  rubles, 
a  watch,  a  pair  of  spectacles,  and  a  few  articles  of  wearhig  apparel,  mak- 
ing part  of  the  effects  of  which  he  had  been  robbed  near  St.  Petersburg. 
Beyond  Tomsk,  the  route  lay  through  a  dreary,  woodless  waste,  where 
tho  villages  were  numerous,  but  miserable  in  tho  extreme,  exceptmg 
those  inhabited  by  Tartars ;  and  afterward,  as  tho  country  became  more 
hilly  the  roads  grew  worse,  until  on  approaching  Krasnojarsk  they  wero 
HO  nearly  impassable  that  he  preferred  walking.  In  tho  government  of 
Irkutsk  the  road  improved,  and  tho  country  appeared  more  fertile. 

On  arriving  at  Irkutsk,  he  was  received  m  a  to^^^ering  manner  by  the 
commandant  of  the  navy,  and  was  induced  to  take  up  his  abode  with  him. 
"  Having  made  myself  as  decent  as  my  Umited  wardrobe  would  aUow," 
he  continues,  "  I  called  on  tho  vice-governor,  who  made  great  promises, 
and  exceeded  them  in  perforhianco.  Upon  quitting  his  exceUency,  I 
made  some  visits,  and  delivered  my  letters  of  recommendation,  made 
inquiries  as  to  my  future  movements,  and  then  returned  to  an  elegant 
dmner  with  ray  host,  who  had  invited  a  party  of  twenty  persons  to 

meet  me.  .  .     ^  i  is.   i     a  i    • 

"  Next  morning,  in  company  with  Captain  Koutigm,  I  left  tho  Admi- 
ralty House,  which  is  two  miles  from  the  city,  to  view  whatever  is  notable 
in  Irkutsk.  Fifteen  thousand  inhabitants,  including  three  thousand  of 
the  military,  are  said  to  compose  the  population.  Irkutsk  indeed  scarcely 
deserves  the  name  of  city,  except  for  its  pubUc  buildings,  which  are  good ; 
yet,  though  I  confess  it  is  upon  the  whole  a  fine  town,  I  could  not  but 
feci  disappointment  from  its  total  want  of  original  plan,  as  well  as  its 
present  want  of  regularity,  which  must  retard  its  advancement  for  a  long 
time  to  come.  Tobolsk  is  certainly  its  superior  in  every  thing  except  its 
situation,  and  the  singularly  fine  appearance  of  a  few  buUdings,  pubhc 

and  private. 

"  My  stay  in  Irkutsk  was  but  a  week,  when,  being  funushed  with  a 
fresh  Cossack,  and  with  every  assistance  I  desired  to  enable  mo  to  reach 
the  river  Lena,  I  set  out,  a  little  melancholy  at  parluig  with  such  kind 


3  E  1(1  A. 

ri(li'('(l,"  ronmrks 
It  I  hunlly  know 
uTuI,  the  citptuiu 
on  on  tho  river 
irdini?  tho  north- 
10  his  periiiisHion 
kind,  I  instantly 
Dnient  in  Irkutsk 
I  immediately  to 
bad,  of  tho  expo- 
,o  withdraw  and 
1  me  with  various 
jld  visit." 
)rward,  attended 
with  fifty  rubles, 
iug  apparel,  mak- 
it  St.  Petersburg, 
less  waste,  where 
treme,  excepting 
itry  l)ocanio  more 
nojarsk  they  were 
lO  government  of 
more  fertile, 
ng  manner  by  the 
is  abode  with  him. 
)bo  would  allow," 
le  great  promises, 
:  his  excellency,  I 
imendation,  made 
led  to  an  elegant 
wenty  persons  to 

n,  I  left  the  Admi- 
rhatever  is  notable 
three  thousand  of 
sk  indeed  scarcely 
3,  which  are  good ; 
n,  I  could  not  but 
plan,  as  well  as  its 
ncement  for  a  long 
sry  thing  except  its 
iv  buildings,  public 

I  fnniished  with  a 
enable  mo  to  reach 
ig  with  such  kind 


VOYAGE    DOWN    TUK    LKNA. 


891 


friends.  At  seven  miic.-i  I  had  a  last  view  of  flu*  city.  Tho  country  \u- 
came  very  elevated,  and  the  road  lay  over  hill  and  tlalc  as  far  as  the  lirtli 
Btiitioii.  With  the  exception  of  some  little  corn,  the  land  is  one  uninter- 
rupted jijisture.  Tho  inhabitants,  Russians,  are  pntfy  numerous,  and 
their  villages,  though  small,  0(!cur  at  frequent  intervals.  The  post-houses 
are  good  and  convenient  halting-places. 

"I  soon  reached  Vercholensk,  a  largo  and  populous  town,  distant  one 
himdred  and  fifty  miles  from  Irkutsk.  The  road  is  by  dangerous  j)re(i- 
pices,  and  at  this  place  tho  communication  by  land  ceases,  a  circumstance 
at  which  I  was  not  a  little  rejoiced,  longing  to  bo  again  upon  my  own 
element.  I  soon  procured  a  canoo  and  a  couple  of  hands,  who,  with  the 
Cossack  and  myself,  paddled  down  tho  stream.  Proceeding  day  and 
night  in  my  open  canoe,  I  generally  made  one  hundred  to  one  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  each  day,  and  wherever  I  went,  fared  well  from  the 
hospitality  of  the  Russian  colonists,  as  well  as  from  that  of  my  friends  at 
Irkutsk,  who  had  provided  me,  according  to  tho  Russian  proverb,  with 
plenty  of  bread  and  salt.  This  simple  sounding  provision  also  included 
some  Hno  partridges,  a  hare,  a  largo  piece  of  roast  beef,  and  a  quantity 
of  meat  pies ;  not  omitting  wine  and  rum.  A  traveler  in  Russia,  whether 
native  or  foreigner,  on  taking  leave  of  his  friends  previous  to  his  depart- 
ure, uniformly  finds  at  his  lodgings  all  tho  provisions  requisite  for  his 
journey,  with  another  lodging  pointed  out  at  some  friend's  upon  his 
next  route,  for  as  long  as  he  pleases.  Indeed  I  have  no  doubt,  as  the  se- 
quel will  justify  the  assertion,  that  a  man  may  travel  through  the  Rus- 
sian Empire,  as  long  as  liis  conduct  is  becoming,  without  wanting  any 
thing — not  even  horses  and  money ;  excepting  only  the  civilized  parts 
between  the  capitals. 

"  Pursuing  ray  voyage,  I  reached  Vittim,  which  is  half  way  to  Ya- 
kutsk, upon  the  eighth  day.  Hero  I  was  first  overtaken  by  the  ice  floating 
down  the  river,  yet  not  so  as  to  incommode  me,  and  I  had  enjoyed  the 
luxury  of  fine  autumnal,  though  cold,  weather.  Sometimes  the  boat 
was  so  much  entangled  in  the  ice,  that  the  poor  fellows  were  compelled 
to  strip  and  track  her,  up  to  their  waists  in  water,  while  the  atmosphere 
was  twenty-five  degrees  of  Fahrenheit ;  I  could  perceive  that  they  suf- 
fered a  good  deal  in  consequence,  for  upon  their  return  to  the  boat,  they 
could  not  tell  which  part  of  their  body  to  restore  first  to  proper  anima- 
tion. Their  great  resort,  I  invariably  found,  was  to  take  a  mouthful  of 
smoke  from  their  pipe — not,  however,  of  tobacco  ;  the  greater  part  at 
least  being  birch-Avood  dust,  or  fine  shavings,  mixed  with  a  very  scanty 
portion  of  tobacco,  the  latter  article  being  extremely  dear :  if  to  this 
luxury  can  bo  added,  however  small,  a  drop  of  brandy,  they  will  cheer- 
fully, and  even  thankfully,  undergo  the  repetition  of  the  suffering.  At 
one  of  these  villages,  I  resumed  my  knapsack,  and  in  three  days  reached 
Olekminsk,  the  last  thirty  miles  on  horseback. 

"  From  Olekminsk  to  Yakutsk  is  about  four  hundred  miles,  which, 
except  the  two  last  stages,  I  completed  in  the  canoe.     It  was  on  the  1st  of 


892 


COCIIRANK'S   JOURNEY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 


1. 


( )ctobor  that  I  left,  and  thu  6th  M'hen  I  arrived.  The  weather  proved 
\  eiy  cold,  and  snow  fell  heavily  ;  the  atmosphere  dark,  and  having  every 
appearance  of  winter :  yet,  iipou  the  whole,  the  season  is  considered 
backward,  as  on  the  1st  of  October  the  Lena  is  generally  frozen  over,  and 
in  three  weeks  more  admits  of  travelers  with  sledges ;  but  at  this  time  I 
was  enabled  to  reach  within  fifty  or  sixty  miles  by  water,  although  '.» ith 
some  risk  and  difficulty. 

"  Yakutsk,  although  a  considerable  place  of  trade,  and  a  great  pass 
lor  the  American  Company,  is  ill  built,  and  more  scattered  oven  than 
Irkutsk,  in  the  most  exposed  of  all  bleak  situations,  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Lena,  which  is  in  summer  four  miles,  and  winter  two  miles  and  a 
half,  wide,  appearing,  as  it  really  is,  one  of  the  finest  streams  in  the 
world,  running  a  course  of  more  than  three  thousand  miles  from  its 
source,  near  Irkutsk,  to  the  Frozen  Sea,  which  it  enters  by  several 
mouths.  There  are  seven  thousand  inhabitants  in  the  city,  of  whom  the 
greater  part  are  Russians,  and  the  rest  Yakuti.  Half  a  dozen  chnrches, 
the  remains  of  an  old  fortress,  a  monastery,  and  some  tolerable  build- 
ings, give  It  some  decency  of  appearance,  yet  I  could  not  help  thinking 
it  one  of  the  most  dreary-looking  places  I  had  seen,  though  I  was  in  the 
«'njoyment  of  every  comfort,  and  therefore  the  less  disposed  to  complain. 

"  I  remained  in  Yakutsk  three  weeks,  making  the  needful  preparar 
tions  for  my  journey  during  so  severe  a  season  of  the  year.  In  par- 
ticular I  looked  to  the  nature  of  my  dress,  for  the  accounts  of  the  cold 
which  I  should  have  to  encounter  were  such,  that  I  considered  myself 
exposed  to  death,  without  even  the  satisfaction  of  expecting  to  be  buried, 
from  the  eternal  frost  that  prevails  here.  Could,  however,  this  feeling 
be  gratified,  the  satisfaction  would  be  materially  increased  by  the  knowl- 
edge that  the  body  itself  would  enter  the  next  world  in  the  same  state 
that  it  left  this  ;  for  everywhere  to  the  north  of  Yakutsk,  the  earth,  two 
feet  and  a  half  below  the  surface,  is  perpetually  frozen ;  consequently  a 
carcase  buried  in  it  at  that  depth  must  remain  perpetually  the  same. 

"  The  way  I  passed  my  time  at  Mr.  Minitsky's  Avas  sufficiently  reg- 
ular ;  I  rose  early,  and  always  went  early  to  bed ;  occupied,  while  day- 
light  lasted,  with  bringing  up  my  journaJ  ;  then  at  a  game  at  billiards ; 
afterward  at  dinner,  always  on  the  most  excellent  fare,  with  wine,  rum, 
and  other  delicacies.  In  the  evening,  with  a  party  of  the  natives,  male 
and  female,  at  the  house  of  the  chief;  the  ladies  to  all  appearance  dumb, 
not  daring  to  utter  a  word,  and  solely  employed  in  cracking  their  nuts, 
a  very  small  s]X}cies  of  the  cedar-nut,  which  abounds  in  such  quantities 
as  to  be  made  an  article  of  trade  to  Okotsk  and  Kamtchatka.  I  am  not 
exaggerating,  when  I  say  that  half  a  dozen  of  females  will  sit  down  and 
consume  each  many  hundreds  of  these  nuts,  and  quit  the  house  without 
having  spoken  a  word — unless  a  stolen  one,  in  fear  it  should  be  heard. 
While  the  ladies  are  thus  cracking  their  nuts,  staring,  and  listening,  and 
speechless,  the  gentlemen  are  employed  in  drinkini^  rum  or  rye-brandy 
[umch,  as  their  tastes  may  dictate.     Nor  is  even  good  rum  a  scarce 


1 


ERIA, 

iveiither  proved 
id  liaving  every 
n  ia  considered 
frozen  over,  and 
ut  at  this  time  I 
•,  although  '.tith 

md  a  great  pass 
sercd  oven  than 
the  left  bank  of 
^\vo  miles  and  a 
streams  in  the 
I  miles  from  its 
[Iters  by  several 
ity,  of  whom  the 
dozen  churches, 
>  tolerable  build- 
lot  help  thinking 
lugh  I  was  in  the 
3sed  to  complain, 
needful  prepara- 
i  year.    In  par- 
junts  of  the  cold 
onsidered  myself 
ing  to  be  buried, 
rever,  this  feeling 
led  by  the  knowl- 
n  the  same  state 
ik,  the  earth,  two 
1 ;  consequently  a 
lUy  the  same. 
IS  sufficiently  reg- 
upied,  while  day- 
ame  at  billiards; 
,  with  wine,  rum, 
the  natives,  male 
appearance  dumb, 
acking  their  nuts, 
in  Buch  quantities 
jhatka.    I  am  not 
will  sit  down  and 
he  house  without 
should  be  heard, 
and  listening,  and 
um  or  rye-brandy 
)od  rum  a  scarce 


WINTER    TRAVEL    IN    SIBERIA. 


393 


article  hero,  coming  as  it  does  by  way  of  Karatchatka.  I  was  one  feast- 
day  on  a  visit  to  a  respectable  old  gentleman,  one  of  the  coun(;il ;  there 
were  no  chairs,  but  a  long  table  was  spread,  with  fish  pies,  a  piece  of 
roast  beef,  boiled  deers'  tongues,  and  some  wild  berries  in  a  turt.  The 
first  thing  presented  is  a  glass  of  brandy,  which  I  refused,  knowing  the 
chief  to  have  sent  some  good  wine ;  this  I  was  offered,  and  accepted, 
when  I  was  told  by  my  friend  the  chief,  that  it  was  not  the  custom  to 
accc^pt  any  thing  of  that  kind  the  first  time,  but  to  await  the  third. 
Relying  upon  the  chiefs  better  knowledge  of  the  Siberian  world,  I  re- 
fused the  next  glass  of  wine,  which  was  offered  me  twice,  and  need  not 
say  I  ultimately  lost  it,  probably  from  the  practice  of  economizing  good 
wine  in  a  place  where  it  can  seldom  be  purchased. 

"  My  dresses  completed,  and  the  river  having,  according  to  custom, 
been  passed  and  declared  closed,  I  packed  up  my  knapsack  and  other 
baggage,  as  I  w.i8  provided  also  with  a  couple  of  bag*  of  black  biscuit 
through  the  kindnoss  of  my  host,  M'ith  a  piece  of  roast  beef,  a  few  dried 
fish,  half  a  dozen  pounds  of  tea,  and  twenty  pounds  of  sugar-candy,  be- 
sides fifty  pounds  of  tobacco,  and  a  keg  of  vodkey  (corn-brandy),  a  most 
indispensable  article  on  such  a  journey,  whether  for  my  own  or  others' 
consumption,  I  had  besides  a  pipe,  flint,  steel,  and  ax,  and,  what  was 
of  most  importance,  a  Cossack  companion,  who  indeed  proved  inval- 
uable to  me.  My  destination  was  Nishney  Kolymsk,  distant  about  one 
thousand  eight  hundred  miles,  which  were  to  be  traveled  over  in  the 
coldest  season  of  the  year,  and  in  what  is  esteemed  the  coldest  part  of 
the  north-east  of  Asia." 

He  left  Yakutsk  on  the  last  day  of  October,  the  thermometer  being 
at  twenty-nine  degrees  below  zero,  and  aft«r  a  wearisome  journey  of 
two  days,  alternately  walking  and  riding,  alike  to  escape  the  fatigue  and 
the  cold,  he  arrived  at  the  banks  of  the  Aldan,  where  he  thus  proceeds 
with  his  narrative :  "  On  the  6th  of  November  I  crossed  the  Aldan,  and 
breakfasted  at  a  solitary  yourte  (at  ten  miles),  completing  in  the  evening 
thirty  miles,  where  we  halted  in  a  cabin  about  ten  feet  square.  Had 
it,  however,  been  much  worse  or  smaller,  I  must  have  felt  thankfiil,  for 
I  had  been  severely  pinched  by  the  effects  of  the  cold  and  the  wind  in 
my  face.  A  good  firj,  a  cup  of  tea,  and  a  sound  slumber,  with  pleasant 
dreams,  perfectly  refreshed  me  by  the  ensuing  morning.  The  country 
had  of  late  been  level,  but  at  twenty  miles  I  became  enveloped  in  a  lofty 
chain  of  mountains,  Avhich  I  had  been  for  some  time  gradually  ascend- 
ing, and  which  are  called  the  Toukoulan  chain,  from  the  word  Touku, 
which,  in  the  Yakut  language,  signifies  "  noisy ;"  as  indeed  the  river  of 
that  name  does  roar  down  its  precipitous  banks.  We  halted  for  the 
night  at  the  foot  of  a  mountainou.^,  peak,  sheltered  from  the  cold  north 
wind ;  and  as  this  was  the  first  night  which  I  was  to  pass  in  the  open 
air,  I  shall  describe  the  manner  of  it,  in  order  that  it  may  be  known  how 
far  (contrary  to  my  calculations)  our  situation  was  susceptible  even  of 
comfort. 


894 


COCIIRANE'S   JOURNEY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 


"  Tl»c  first  tiling  on  my  arrival  was  to  unload  the  horses,  loosen  their 
saddles  or  pads,  take  the  bridle  out  of  their  mouths,  and  tie  them  to  a 
tree  in  such  a  manner  that  they  could  not  eat.    The  Yakuti  then  with 
their  axes  proceeded  to  fell  timber,  while  I  and  the  Cossack,  with  our 
lopatkas,  or  wooden  spades,  cleared  away  the  snow,  which  was  generally 
a  couple  of  feet  deep.    We  then  spread  branches  of  the  pine-tree,  to 
fortify  us  from  the  damp  or  cold  earth  beneath  us :  a  good  fire  was  now 
soon  made,  and  each  bringing  a  leathern  bag  from  the  baggage,  fur- 
nished himself  with  a  seat.     We  then  put  the  kettle  on  the  fire,  and 
soon  forgot  the  sufferings  of  the  day.    At  times  the  weather  was  so  cold 
that  we  were  almost  obliged  to  creep  into  the  fire  ;  and  as  I  was  much 
worse  off  than  the  rest  of  the  party  for  warm  clothing,  I  had  recourse  to 
every  stratagem  I  could  devise  to  keep  my  blood  in  circulation.    It  was 
barely  possible  to  keep  one  side  of  the  body  from  freezing,  while  the 
other  might  be  said  to  be  roasting.    Upon  the  whole,  I  passed  the  night 
tolerably  well,  although  I  was  obliged  to  get  up  five  or  six  times  to  take 
a  walk  or  run  for  the  benefit  of  my  feet.    While  thus  employed,  I  dis- 
covered that  the  Yakuti  had  drawn  the  fire  from  our  side  to  theirs,  a 
trick  which  I  determined  to  counteract  the  following  night.    I  should 
here  observe,  that  it  is  the  custom  of  the  Yakuti  to  get  to  leeward  of  the 
fire,  and  then,  undressing  themselves,  put  the  whole  of  their  clothes  as 
a  shelter  for  the  outer  sides  of  their  bodies,  while  the  inner  side  receives 
a  thorough  roasting  from  exposure  to  the  fire  ;  this  plan  also  gives  them 
the  benefit  of  the  warmth  of  their  own  bodies.    The  thermometer  during 
the  day  had  ranged  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  degrees  below  zero,  ac- 
cording to  the  elevation  of  the  sun. 

"The  following  day,  at  thirty  miles,  we  again  halted  in  the  snow, 
when  I  made  a  horse-shoe  fire,  which  I  found  had  the  effect  I  desired, 
of  keeping  every  part  of  me  alike  warm,  and  I  actually  slept  well  with- 
out any  other  covering  than  my  clothes  thrown  over  me,  whereas  before 
I  had  only  the  consolation  of  knowing  that  if  I  was  in  a  freezuig  state 
with  one  half  of  my  body,  the  other  was  meanwhile  roasting  to  make 
amends.    On  the  third  night  I  reached  the  foot  of  the  mountainous  pass 
which  may  be  said  to  lead  to  Northern  Siberia.    My  route  had  hitherto 
lain  generally  on  the  banks  of  the  Toukoulan,  which  runs  along  a  pic- 
tiiresque  valley  on  the  western  range  of  the  mountains,  and  is  well  wood- 
ed with  fir,  larch,  and  alder.    Upon  reaching  thus  far,  I  looked  up  at 
what  I  had  yet  to  perform,  and,  I  confess,  felt  astonished,  not  at  the 
height,  but  how  it  could  be  practicable  to  get  up  a  slippery  and  almost 
trackless  road.    However  we  commenced,  and  mainly  by  preferring  the 
deep  snow,  as  I  uniformly  did,  at  last  gained  the  summit,  but  not  with- 
out great  fatigue ;  a  horse  could  not  carry  a  person  up  under  a  consider- 
ble  time,  and  it  took  me  two  hours  at  least.    We  sat  down,  my  Cossack 
and  I,  to  gain  breath  and  wait  for  the  Yakuti  with  the  baggage,  in  the 
mean  time  smoking  a  pipe ;  but  it  was  too  cold  to  remain ;  we  thorcforo 
prepared  to  descend.    As  to  keeping  my  feet,  however,  that  was  impos- 


SIBERIA. 

horses,  loosen  their 

and  tie  them  to  a 
e  Yakuti  then  with 
I  Cossack,  with  our 
rhich  was  generally 
of  the  pine-tree,  to 
I  good  iire  was  now 
I  the  baggage,  fur- 
ttle  on  the  fire,  and 
weather  was  so  cold 

and  as  I  was  much 
g,  I  had  recourse  to 
circulation.    It  was 

freezing,  while  the 
e,  I  passed  the  night 

or  six  times  to  take 
has  employed,  I  dis- 
3ur  side  ta  theirs,  a 
ing  night.  I  should 
ret  to  leeward  of  the 
B  of  their  clothes  as 
16  inner  side  receives 

plan  also  gives  them 
I  thermometer  during 
Ejreea  below  zero,  ac- 

haltcd  in  the  enow, 
the  effect  I  desired, 
ually  slept  well  with- 
ir  me,  whereas  before 
as  in  a  freezing  state 
lie  roasting  to  make 
;he  mountainous  pass 
y  route  had  hitherto 
lich  runs  along  a  pic- 
ins,  and  is  well  wood- 
i  far,  I  looked  up  at 
stonished,  not  at  the 

slippery  and  almost 
nly  by  preferring  the 
lummit,  but  not  with- 

up  under  a  consider- 
at  down,  my  Cossack 

the  baggage,  in  the 

remain ;  we  therefore 
ever,  that  was  impos- 


TAKUT    VORACITY. 


395 


sible ;  I  therefore  laid  down,  and  slid  to  the  bottom  of  the  most  danger- 
ous part,  a  feat  for  which  I  had  nearly  paid  dear,  by  coming  in  contact 
with  a  horse  which  had  taken  the  same  expeditious  mode  of  descending. 
The  path  was  so  narrow,  that  one  error  would  have  pitched  me  forever 
into  the  abyss  of  snow  beneath ;  and,  although  not  deep,  would  have 
prevented  a  return,  unless  I  had  fortunately  liiUen  with  my  teet  down- 
ward ;  the  half-frozen  surface  of  the  snow  serving  in  some  manner  to 
bring  the  person  up :  falling  on  one  side  I  found  very  dangerous,  unless 
somebody  was  near  to  render  assistance.  I  soon  reached  what  I  may 
term  a  charity  yourte,  being  erected  by  the  community  in  general  for 
the  accommodation  and  preservation  of  travelers.  It  consists  of  a  twelve 
feet  square  room,  with  a  small  ante-room  which  serves  as  an  entry,  and 
may  be  properly  termed  a  log-house,  having  no  window,  unless  a  large 
opening  in  the  roof  may  be  so  termed." 

In  this  manner  they  arrived  at  Baralass  in  six  days  by  a  route  leading 
through  magnificent  scenery,  but  a  dreary  and  desolate  region,  "  where," 
observes  Captain  Cochrane,  "  there  is  not  an  individual  dwelling  in  the 
whole  extent  from  Aldan  to  Baralass,  a  distance  equal  to  half  the  length 
of  England."  They  reached  Tabalak  on  the  sixth  day  from  Baralass,  a 
distance  of  two  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  "  The  third  day,"  he  writes, 
"was  the  coldest  I  liad  experienced,  the  thermometer  ranging  trom 
thirty  to  thirty-five  degrees  below  zero,  attended  M'ith  some  snow.  We 
passed  several  habitations  of  the  Yakuti,  who  invariably  offered  us  a 
lodging  and  provision  for  the  day ;  and  always  appropriated  to  me  the 
best  berth,  which  is  in  that  corner  of  the  room  imder  the  image,  ai^d 
opposite  to  the  fire. 

"  At  Tabalak  I  had  a  pretty  good  specimen  of  the  appetite  of  ^  child, 
whose  age  (as  I  understood  from  the  steersman,  who  spoke  some  English 
and  less  French)  did  not  exceed  five  years.  I  had  observed  the  child 
crawling  on  the  floor,  and  scraping  up  with  its  thumb  the  tallow-grease 
which  fell  from  a  lighted  candle,  and  I  inquired  in  surprise  -whether  it 
proceeded  from  hunger  or  liking  of  the  fiit.  I  was  told  from  neither, 
biit  simply  from  the  habit  in  both  Yakuti  and  Tongousi,  of  eating  when- 
ever there  is  food,  and  never  permitting  any  thing  that  can  be  eaten  to 
be  lost.  I  gave  the  child  a  candle  made  of  the  most  impure  tallow,  a 
second,  and  a  third — and  all  were  devoured  with  avidity.  The  steers- 
man then  gave  him  several  pounds  of  sour,  frozen  butter ;  this  also  he 
immediately  consumed ;  lastly,  a  largo  piece  of  yellow  soap ; — all  went 
the  same  road ;  but  as  I  was  now  convinced  that  the  child  would  con- 
tinue  to  gorge  as  long  as  it  could  receive  any  thing,  I  begged  my  com- 
panion to  desist  as  I  had  done. 

"  For  an  instance  in  confirmation  of  this,  no  doubt,  extraordinary 
statement,  I  shall  refer  to  tie  voyages  of  the  Russian  admiral,  Saritcheff. 
'  No  sooner,'  ho  says,  '  had  they  stopj)ed  to  rest  or  spend  the  night, 
than  they  had  their  kettle  on  the  fire,  which  they  never  lefl  until  they 
pursued  their  journey,  spending  the  intervals  for  rest  in  catuig,  and,  in 


896  COCHRANE'S   JOURNEY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 

consequence  of  no  sleep,  were  drowsy  all  the  next  day'    J^e  admiral 
To  says  'That  such  extraordinary  voracity  was  never  attended  with 
n^l-t,  althouffh  they  made  a  practice  of  devounng,  at  one  meal, 
X  wtld  h^^^^^^^^  other  plson.    The  laborers.'  the  adn^iral 

^vt  Tad  an  allowance  of  four  poods,  or  one  hundred  and  forty-four 
EnSish^unds  of  fat,  and  seventy-two  pounds  of  rye-flour  yet  ma  for^ 
S  he^  complaini  of  having  nothmg  to  eat.  Not  cred.tn.g  the  fact, 
Z  YakuuTaid  that  one  of  them  was  accustomed  to  consume  at  home, 
'^het-e  of  a  day,  or  twenty-four  hours,  the  »>-<^-?-'^- ^J  ,^7^ 
o.,  tv,eLv  pounds  of  fat,  -nd  a  proportionate  qnnnU^^MJ^u^ 
for  his  drink.  The  appearance  of  the  man  not  just.fymg  the  assertion 
the  aL  ral  had  a  mind  to  try  his  gormandizing  powers,  and  for  that 
itpoth:  had  a  thick  porrid/c  of  rice  boiled  down  ..th  thr^e  ^.md 
of  butter    weighing  together  twenty-eight  pounds,  and  although  the 

^^utton  hLl  «W^^  y«*  ^t  ^:  f  'Tom  tiet't  S 

easrerness,  and  consumed  the  whole  without  stirrmg  Irom  the  spot ,  and 
oS  that  his  stomach  betrayed  more  than  an  ordinary  fulhiess,  he 
Zwed  no  sign  of  inconvenience  or  injury,  but  would  have  been  ready 
to  renew  his  gluttony  the  followmg  day.' "  . ,      ,u  „,* 

AftcT  n  ne  days  of  this  toUsome  kind  of  traveling,  they  at  length  got 
cleat  of  thTdcsert  of  snow,  and  descended  from  the  hills ;  t  -n  p.wng 
:  ong  a  well-wooded  valley  to  the  Indigirka,  they  entered  he  town  of 
Zashiversk.  "  Of  all  the  places  I  have  ever  seen,  bearmg  the  name  ot 
dfy  or  town,"  observes  Captain  Cochrane,  "this  is  the  most  dreary  ^d 
deLL  m^  blood  froze  wHhin  me  as  I  beheld  and  approached  tno 
pZ  AlUhat  I  have  seen  in  passing  rocky  or  snowy  sierras  or  parses 
rSoainn  traversing  the  wastes  of  Canada,  or  in  crossing  the  Co  dil- 
"rlTAndes^in  South  America,  the  Pyrenees,  or  the  Alps,  can  -^^e 
compared  with  the  desolation  of  the  scene  around  me !  The  first  con 
Sble  hllting-place  from  Yakutsk,  the  half  wy  house,  is  nmeh^^^^^^^^^ 

or  one  thousand  mUes  removed  from  a  «»->^?  .f  ^«; ^  „^"t  mo^t  S 
pame  to  a  commissariat,  and  contains  seven  habitations  of  the  most  » 
abte  kUid  inhabited  severally  by  two  clergymen,  each  separate,  a  noti- 
^cS^iisLed  officer,  and  a  icond  in  command;  a  poftm-ter  a  - 
chant,  and  an  old  widow.  I  have,  durmg  my  service  '"  the  nay,  and 
durinVa  period  when  seamen  were  scarce,  seen  a  merchant  ship  wi  h 
^xteen  g^n"  and  only  fifteen  men,  but  I  never  before  saw  a  town  with 

'^''l  oIThelfd'oTD;^  I  quitted  the  to.n  of  Zashiversk,  not  un- 

grateful for  the  hospitality  of  its  poor  h-hitant^'/'^^X^^PKuri 
with  plenty  of  fish,  here  eaten  in  a  raw  state,  and  which  to  this  hour  1 
^me£  L  the  g  eatest  delicacyl  have  ever  tasted.  Spiteof  our  prej- 
XT  theTe  is  nothing  to  be  compared  to  the  meltmg  of  raw  fish 
L  the  mouth ;  oysters,  clotted  cream,  or  the  finest  jelly  m  the  world  i 
.Wnrto  it  •  nor  is  it  only  a  small  quantity  that  may  be  eaten  of  thw 
""^^ZJ^ty.    I  mU  have\nished  a  whole  fish  which,  m  its 


SIBERIA. 

day.'    The  a<lmir»l 
iCver  attended  with 
ouring,  at  one  meal, 
iborerB,'  the  admiral 
idred  and  forty-four 
■e-flour,  yet  in  a  fort- 
ot  crediting  the  fact, 
to  consume  at  home, 
d-quarter  of  a  large 
itity  of  melted  butter 
itifying  tlie  assertion, 
powers,  and  for  that 
m  with  three  poimds 
Is,  and  although  the 
)wn  to  it  with  great 
r  from  the  spot ;  and, 

ordinary  fulhiess,  he 
ould  have  been  ready 

ig,  they  at  length  got 
he  hills  ;  then  passing 
entered  the  town  of 
hearuig  the  name  of 
i  the  most  dreary  and 

and  approached  tho 
iiowy  sierras  or  passes 
I  crossing  the  Cordil- 
r  tho  Alps,  can  not  be 
1  me !  The  first  con- 
house,  is  nine  hundred 
ce.  Such  a  spot  gives 
ions  of  tho  most  roiser- 
,  each  separate,  a  noti- 
;  a  postmaster,  a  mer- 
rvice  in  tho  navy,  and 

a  merchant  ship  with 
)efore  saw  a  town  with 

i  of  Zashiversk,  not  un- 
,  who  had  supplied  me 
d  which  to  this  hour  I 
ited.  Spite  of  our  prej- 
le  melting  of  raw  fish 
!st  jelly  in  the  world  is 
at  may  be  eaten  of  this 
whole  fjsh  which,  in  its 


HR   BECOMES    A    PRIEST. 


897 


firozen  state,  might  have  weighed  two  or  three  pounds,  and,  with  black 
biscuit  and  a  glass  of  rye-brandy,  have  defied  cither  nature  or  art  to  pro- 
pare  a  better  meal.  It  is  cut  up  or  shaved  mto  slices  with  a  sharp  knife, 
from  head  to  tail,  and  thence  derives  the  name  of  Stroganina.  My  first 
day's  journey  made  me  better  acquainted  with  the  power  and  use  of 
dogs ;  water  or  ice,  fish,  firewood,  travelers  and  their  goods,  and  every 
thing,  being  here  drawn  by  these  animals.  I  continued  over  a  flat  coun- 
try, and  lakes  communicating  with  one  another  by  small  streams,  suffer- 
ing much  at  times  from  the  cold,  especially  in  the  knees,  which,  although 
not  sensibly  cold,  had  a  feeling  of  deadness  and  painful  fatigue  which  I 
could  not  account  for,  till  a  peddler  explained  to  me,  by  signs  and  words, 
that,  if  I  did  not  alter  my  plan,  I  should  certainly  lose  both  my  legs 
above  the  knees.  They  appeared  indeed  a  little  inflamed,  owing,  as  he 
said,  to  the  inadequate  protection  of  the  knee-joints,  which,  on  horse- 
back, are  more  than  ordinarily  exposed,  all  the  defense  they  had  being  a 
single  leather,  in  sometimes  sixty-eight  degrees  below  zero,  Fahrenheit. 
I  considered  that  I  was  still  bound  to  tho  northward,  and  that  the  ex- 
treme of  winter  had  not  yet  come  upon  me,  and  therefore  thought  it 
better  to  accept  a  pair  of  sonturee  (knee-preservera,  made  of  the  skins  of 
reindeer's  legs),  which  ho  very  kindly  offered.  The  service  they  did  mo 
is  astonishing ;  from  that  moment  I  had  less  pain  and  more  heat,  and  be- 
came fully  satisfied  that  tho  extremities  are  alone  to  be  taken  care  of." 

At  length  the  traveler's  eyes  became  painful  from  the  effects  of  the 
snow  on  the  eye-lashes,  but  he  still  pushed  on  over  a  miserable  road,  tho 
fatigues  of  which  need  not  be  repeated,  and  on  the  eighth  day  reached 
Sordak,  three  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  Zashiversk.  In  the  few 
wretched  abodes  which  they  passed  on  the  route,  they  sometimes  found 
the  occupants  in  a  state  of  starvation.  "  Having  well  refreshed  ourselves 
with  the  flesh  of  a  wolf  and  a  horse,  which  had  the  day  before  fought 
each  other  to  death,"  continues  tho  captwn,  "we  departed  on  the  14th 
toward  the  Kolyma.  The  first  night  we  pot  np  at  a  yonrte,  forty  miles, 
encompassed  by  squalling  children,  growling  and  howling  dogs,  and  a 
scolding  and  tyrannical  hostess.  Having  procured  wood  for  the  night, 
on  the  morrow  we  depaited,  but  not  before  I  had  got  into  a  scrape,  for 
hanging  my  cap  and  gloves  upon  the  pins  which  bear  the  images  of  wor- 
*ip.  The  infuriated  woman  complained  to  the  Cossack  of  the  insult. 
The  Cossack  told  her  I  was  an  English  pope,  or  priest,  Mid  that  I  was 
privileged ;  the  length  of  my  locks,  as  well  as  beard,  was  proof  positive, 
and  thenceforward  I  was  called  the  English  priest. 

"  On  the  19th  of  December,  I  reached  Sredne  Kolymsk.  The  priest 
having,  with  the  commissary  and  principal  people  of  the  place,  paid  me 
a  visit,  tho  former  entered  my  habitation  crossing  himself,  as  is  custom- 
ary ;  then  advancing  to  me,  who  stood  offering  him  my  hand  in  the  En- 
glish style,  I  was  honored  with  his  blessing,  which  I  acknowledged  by  an 
exchange  of  the  compliment.  The  old  gentleman  retreated  in  astonish* 
ment,  and,  demanding  who  and  what  I  was,  my  Cossack  answered  that 


I 


898 


COCHRANE'S    JOURNEY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 


I  was  an  English  priest ;  upon  which  tho  reverend  gentleman  observed 
he  was  in  error,  as  one  priest  could  not  give  benediction  to  another.  He 
then  shook  hands,  and  expressed  his  friendship  for  me.  Another  instance 
of  the  effects  of  my  beard,  and  of  more  value  to  me,  though  less  to  the 
priests  of  Siberia,  arose  from  the  circumstance  of  the  Yakuti  coPiing  to 
me  frequently  with  the  right  hand  open,  and  supported  by  the  left,  which 
I  interpreted  into  an  asking  of  alms,  and  accordingly  gave  them  some- 
thing to  eat.  This,  howe\'er,  they  evidently  declined,  and  still  continued 
their  supplicating  pobture.  My  Cossack  afterward  gave  me  to  understand 
that  I  was  mistaken,  for  that  they  were  begging  a  blessing.  I  therefore 
determined  to  satisfy  the  next  Yakut  who  appeared  during  one  of  my 
rambles  along  the  river  ;  and  when  a  Avell-dressed  Yakut  knez,  or  prince, 
demanded  my  blessing  in  passing,  I  gave  it  to  him  in  the  Russian  style, 
as  well  as  to  his  family.  When  I  left  them  the  prince  began  to  unload 
a  sauma,  or  leathern  bag,  and  following  me,  kissed  my  hand,  and  insisted 
upon  my  accepting  a  couple  of  sables ;  nor  could  all  my  entreaties  induce 
him  to  take  them  back,  that  being  considered  the  greatest  insult ;  nor, 
indeed  will  any  return  be  received  for  a  religious  offering  on  the  spot ; 
afterward,  a  little  tobacco,  a  knife,  or  flint  and  steel,  is  considered  an  ac- 
ceptable present. 

On  Christmas  day  he  set  forward,  and  after  a  journey  of  five  days 
over  a  flat  country,  with  the  temperature  at  from  forty-five  to  fifty  de- 
grees below  zero,  he  arrived  at  the  station  called  Malone.  On  the  last 
day  he  traveled  sixty  miles,  "  although,"  he  observes,  "  I  was  obliged 
from  the  cold  to  dismount  at  least  twenty  or  thirty  times  to  take  a  run 
for  mere  self-preser^'ation.  At  Malone  the  track  fiar  horses  is  in  general 
finished,  though  they  do  sometimes  go  as  far  as  Nishney  Kolymsk,  and 
even  to  the  Frozen  Sea,  in  search  of  sea-horse  and  mammoth's  tusks.  I 
was  now  provided  with  thirteen  dogs  and  a  driver,  and  a  vehicle  covered 
over  with  a  sort  of  frame  and  oil-cloth,  to  keep  out  tho  cold,  as  it  was 
thought  too  great  for  me  to  withstand.  A  bear-skin  and  warm  blanket 
and  pillow  were  also  placed  in  it,  in  such  a  manner  that  I  might  lie 
down,  be  warm,  and  sleep  at  my  pleasure.  I  got  in,  and  it  was  closed 
after  me ;  not  a  breath  of  air  could  enter ;  so  that,  notwithstanding  the 
intense  cold  prevailing  on  the  outside,  I  was  obliged  to  make  my  escape 
from  the  suffocation  within,  by  taking  out  my  knife  and  cutting  a  way 
through  to  gain  fresh  air. 

"  We  reached  fifty-five  miles  with  the  same  dogs,  and  put  up  for  the 
night  at  a  Yukagir  hut.  Resumed  next  morning,  with  increased  cold, 
though  calm  weather,  and  reached  Nishney  Kolymsk  at  noen,  amid  a 
frost  of  sixty-two  and  a  half  degrees  below  zero,  according  to  many 
spirit  thermometers  of  Baron  Wrangel's,  on  the  last  day  of  December, 
1820,  after  a  most  tedious,  laborious,  and  to  me  perilous,  journey  of 
sixty-one  days,  twenty  of  which  were  passed  in  the  snow,  without  even 
the  comfort  of  a  blanket ;  nor  had  I  even  a  second  coat,  or  parka,  nor 
even  a  second  pair  of  boots,  and  less  clothing  than  even  the  guides  and 


ilBERlA. 

entleman  observed 
on  to  another.  He 
Anotlier  instance 
,  though  less  to  the 
e  Yakuticor.ingto 

d  by  the  left,  which 
'ly  gave  them  sorae- 
l,  and  still  continued 
,ve  me  to  understand 
lessing.    I  therefore 
d  during  one  of  ray 
akutknez,  or  prince, 
in  the  Russian  style, 
nee  began  to  unload 
ny  hand,  and  insisted 
my  entreaties  induce 
greatest  insult;  nor, 
offering  on  the  spot ; 
il,  is  considered  an  ac- 

joumey  of  five  days 
forty-five  to  fifty  de- 
Malonc.     On  the  last 
srves,  "  I  was  obliged 
y  times  to  take  a  run 
for  horses  is  in  general 
S^ishney  Kolymsk,  and 
I  mammoth's  tusks.    I 
,  and  a  vehicle  covered 

out  the  cold,  as  it  was 
kin  and  warm  blanket 
,nner  that  I  might  lie 
)t  in,  and  it  was  closed 
t,  notwithstanding  the 
red  to  make  my  escape 
life  and  cutting  a  way 

ogs,  and  put  up  for  the 
ig,  with  increased  cold, 
olymsk  at  noon,  aimd  a 
ero,  according  to  many 
I  last  day  of  December, 
le  perilous,  journey  of 
the  snow,  without  even 
ond  coat,  or  parka,  nor 
urn  even  the  gmdos  and 


BARON    WRANQEL'S    EXPEDITION. 


899 


attendants  of  the  poorest  class.  I  met,  at  Nishney  Kolymsk,  the  Baron 
Wrangel,  and  liis  companion,  Mr.  Matiushkin,  a  midshipman.  It  was 
the  last  day  of  the  old  year,  and  in  the  present  enjoyment  of  a  moderate 
meal,  a  hearty  welcome,  and  excellent  friends,  I  soon  forgot  the  past, 
und  felt  little  concern  for  the  future.  Quarters  were  appropriated  me 
In  the  baron's  own  house ;  and  with  him,  on  the  shores  of  the  Frozen 
Sea,  I  enjoyed  health  and  every  comfort  I  could  desire. 

"  On  the  morning  after  my  arrival  at  Nishney  Kolymsk,  and  wliilo 
at  breakfast  I  received,  as  a  new  year's  gift,  a  couple  of  large  fish  in  a 
frozen  state,  weighing  each  five  or  six  poods,  or  about  two  Imndred 
pounds  weight.  I  inquired  for  what  they  were  intended,  and  learned, 
that  I  could  not  be  supposed  to  have  brought  fish  with  me  for  subsist- 
ence ;  and  that,  as  the  season  had  already  passed  for  laying  in  a  stock, 
the  inhabitants  of  course  knew  that  I  must  be  in  want.  During  the 
forenoon  I  also  received  a  parka,  or  leather  frock,  to  be  worn  during 
my  stay  in  the  Kolyma.  It  was  a  handsome  one,  mounted  with  sables 
and  martins.  To  these  were  added  trowsers,  cap,  boots,  and  leather 
hose ;  in  short,  every  article  of  dress  that  could  be  desired,  and  sufficient 
to  have  served  nie  at  least  a  twelvemonth.  Besides  these  articles,  I  was 
also  provided  with  a  bear's  skin  for  a  bed,  and  a  leather  covering  for  a 
blanket,  lined  with  hare's  skins. 

"  Baron  Wrangel's  expedition  I  found  in  a  state  of  much  forward- 
ness, great  exertions  having  been  used  in  collecting  dogs  and  drivers, 
and  provisions,  as  well  as  in  making  new  nartes,  or  sledges.  I  learned 
that  it  would  depart  from  the  Kolyma  in  the  month  of  March,  in  two 
divisions — one  having  for  its  object  the  solution  of  the  question  regard- 
ing the  latitude  and  longitude  of  the  north-east  cape  of  Asia ;  and  the 
other,  a  journey  due  north  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kolyma,  in  search  of 
a  real  or  supposed  continent,  or  rather  the  continuation  of  Asia  to  where 
it  was  imagined  by  some  to  join  the  continent  of  America.  I  did  not 
hesitate  to  volunteer  my  sor^'ices ;  but  in  ( onsequence  of  my  being  a 
foreigner,  I  found  my  services  could  not  be  accepted  without  special 
permission  from  the  government.  I  therefore  made  up  my  nund  to  set 
out  for  the  fair  of  the  Tchuktchi,  and  to  try  my  fortune  in  getting  a 
passage  through  their  country,  and  so  to  cross  over  Behring's  Straits 
for  America. 

"  Nishney  Kolymsk  may  be  termed  a  large  town  in  this  part  of  the 
world,  containing,  as  it  does,  near  fifty  dwellings  and  about  four  hundred 
people  (or  eighty  families),  which  is  three  times  the  number  of  any 
place  betwixt  it  and  Yakutsk.  No  cultivation  can  of  course  be  expected 
in  a  climate  wherein  scarcely  a  blade  of  grass  is  to  be  seen ;  the  horses, 
which  do  sometimes  tarry  in  its  vicinity  for  a  few  days,  feeding  upon 
the  tops,  stumps,  and  bark  of  the  bushes,  or  upon  the  moss.  The  inhab- 
itants manage,  notwithstanding,  with  great  labor  to  feed  a  couple  of 
cows ;  though  to  do  this  they  are  obliged  to  bring  the  hay  eighty  miles." 

The  town  and  district  of  Kolyma  are  subject  to  the  ravages  of  many 


400 


COCHRANK'S    JOURNEY    TIIROUOII    SIBERIA. 


iliHensoii,  such  as  leprosy,  apoplexy,  nccrvy,  and  others,  which  tho  captain 
(fnumeratcs,  and  then  procecdg  as  follows:  "The  complaints  called 
lUahk  mi  corpty  and  imeravhiiini,  mn^t  also  be  specified  ;  the  former  is  a 
most  extraordinary  one,  and  considts  in  an  idea  that  the  body  of  tho  par 
tient  is  possessed  with  ono  or  more  devils,  attended  with  incessant  hic- 
coughs. The  parties  afflicted  with  it  are  generally  most  delicate  and 
interesting  in  their  appearance ;  and  it  is  seldom  indeed  that  any  indi* 
vidual  is  cured.  In  females  it  prevails  to  such  an  extent  as  ntterly  to 
prevent  pregnancy.  I  have  seen  them  hiccough  to  so  great  an  extent, 
as  to  induce  me  to  strike  them  on  the  nppcr  part  of  the  spine,  in  the 
hope  of  relieving  them  from  tho  pain  by  a  surprise  of  the  moment. 
They  persist  in  believing  that  a  devil  is  in  the  body  of  the  person  afflict* 
ed,  and  that,  until  he  be  removed,  tho  person  will  never  regain  health. 
The  complaint,  whatever  it  may  be,  the  natives  consider  as  an  inherit- 
ance from  their  fathers.  Imerachism,  to  which  not  only  the  people  of 
the  Kolyma,  but  those  also  of  more  sonthern  countries  are  subject,  is 
equally  unaccountable.  Instead  of  exciting  serious  fits,  like  the  last- 
mentioned  disorder,  it  carries  with  it  an  air  of  merriment,  as  it  by  no 
means  affects  the  health  of  the  person,  though  it  subjects  him  to  tho 
most  violent  paroxysms  of  rage,  fear,  and  mortification.  Whatever  is 
said  or  done  in  the  presence  of  on  imeracb,  will  bo  repeated  by  him  at 
the  moment,  however  indecorous,  improper,  or  violent  the  act  may  be. 
I  have  seen  the  dog-master  of  Baron  Wrangel's  expedition  commit  acta 
sufficient  to  frighten  the  person  in  company  with  him.  While  in  an  ad- 
joining room  conversing  on  points  of  duty,  a  slight  knock  at  the  bulk- 
head was  sufficient  to  set  him  a  pummelling  the  person  with  him  merely 
from  a  principle  of  selMefcnsc.  Of  this  same  dog-master,  by  the  way, 
a  highly  amusing  anecdote  is  related,  and  which  was  confirmed  to  me, 
not  only  by  himself  personally,  but  also  by  Mr.  Gedcnstrom,  of  Irkutsk, 
who  commanded  the  expedition.  The  theater  was  the  Frozen  Ocean, 
and  the  imeroch's  dogs  and  narte  were  the  headmost.  One  forenoon 
they  encountered  a  large  white  bear;  the  dogs  immediately  started 
toward  the  animal,  and  the  driver,  being  the  dog-master  of  whom  I  un 
speaking,  stead&stly  kept  his  place,  prudently  remaining  by  those  who 
only  could  assist  him.  In  the  eagerness  of  the  dogs,  sharpened  probably 
by  hunger,  they  became  entangled  with  ono  another,  and  were  almotft 
rendered  useless.  The  driver  seeing  the  state  to  which  he  was  reduced, 
resolved  to  attack  the  bear  with  his  ostol  (a  stoat  ironed  stick  with  smaH 
bells,  which  serves  to  atop  the  narte),  and  accordingly  presented  himself 
to  the  enraged  bear,  who  immediately  raised  himself  upon  the  hind  lega^ 
and  began  to  cry  and  roar  most  bitterly ;  the  imerach  followed  his  ex- 
ample.  The  bear  then  began  to  dance,  and  the  driver  did  the  same,  tifl 
at  length  the  other  nartes  coming  up,  the  bear  received  a  blow  upon  the 
nose  and  was  secured.  Two  old  ladies  in  Kamtchatka,  one,  the  mother 
of  a  Mr.  Tallman,  an  American,  who  had  married  a  Russian  girl,  the 
other,  the  wife  of  a  Russiim,  who  were  both  afflicted  with  the  disease, 


MtMli. 


ERIA. 

\\k\\  the  cftpt^n 
unplaints  called 
the  former  i»  a 
body  of  tho  pa- 
ith  incessant  hic- 
ost  delicate  and 
;d  that  any  indi- 
gent as  nttcrly  to 
great  an  extent, 
the  spine,  in  the 
of  the  moment, 
the  person  afflict- 
vcr  regain  health, 
ider  as  an  inherit- 
™ly  the  people  of 
rics  are  subject,  is 
fits,  like  the  last- 
riment,  as  it  by  no 
jbjects  him  to  tho 
ion.    Whatever  is 
repeated  by  him  »l 
nt  the  act  may  be. 
idition  commit  acts 
1.    While  in  an  ad- 
knock  at  the  bulk- 
on  tvith  him  merely 
master,  by  the  way, 
«  confirmed  to  me, 
enstrom,  of  Irkutsk, 
1  the  Frozen  Ocean, 
,o9t.    One  forenoon 
immediately  started 
aster  of  whom  I  am 
lining  by  those  who 
,  sharpened  probably 
cr,  and  were  almost 
rich  he  was  reduced, 
oned  stick  with  small 
y  presented  himseVf 
upon  the  hind  legs, 
raoh  followed  his  ex- 
iver  did  the  same,  tin 
4ved  a  blow  upon  the 
atka,one,thentoth«r 

1  a  Russian  girl,  the 
ted  with  the  disease, 


VI.SIT    TO   THE    TCHUKTCni. 


401 


were  sitting  at  tea  opposite  to  one  another,  when  Mr.  Tallman,  in  a  gen- 
tle inunner,  put  his  hands  behind  their  backs,  propelling  the  old  ladies 
toward  each  other,  upon  which  they  instantly  exchanged  tea-cups  and 
saucers,  while  the  really  offending  party  stood  enjoying  the  mischief." 

Captain  Cochrane  remained  at  Lower  Kolymsk  during  the  months 
of  January  and  February.  The  weather  was  exceedingly  cold.  Mean- 
while the  preparations  for  tho  expedition  were  completed,  and  Baron 
Wrangel  and  his  party  set  out  on  tho  27th  of  February.  On  the  4th  of 
March,  the  Captain  lefl  the  Kolyma  on  a  visit  to  the  Tchuktchi.  lie 
traveled  in  company  with  Mr.  Matiushkin,  tho  midshipman,  and  some 
merchants,  whose  nartes  were  loaded  with  tobacco  and  iron  utensils  for 
the  fair  of  the  Tchuktchi,  to  bo  held  at  the  fortress  of  Ostrovnaya.  Tlic 
weather  was  lino,  being  but  twenty-five  degrees  below  zero.  On  the  8th 
they  reached  the  fortress,  situated  on  tho  Aniuy,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  from  the  Kolyma. 

"  Having  settled  ourselves  in  a  small  Yukagir  yourte,"  continues  tho 
captain,  "  Mr.  Matiushkin  and  I  received  a  visit  from  one  of  the  Tchukt- 
chi, a  most  empty  countenanced  and  wild  looking  savage.  He  entered 
the  room  where  we  were,  tumbled  himself  down  upon  a  stool,  smoked 
his  pipe,  and  then  quitted  the  room,  without  once  looking  at,  or  taking 
the  least  notice,  either  of  us  or  any  thing  about  us.  The  commissary 
having  made  his  appearance,  it  was  determined  to  commence  the  fair, 
by  first  installing  two  of  the  chiefs  with  medals  and  swords,  baptizing 
them,  and  receiving  a  nominal  tribute.  Tlie  morning  was  ushered  in  by 
the  arrival  of  these  persons  in  state,  dressed  in  their  gayest  apparel,  and 
seated  in  a  beautiful  narte  drawn  by  two  rein-deer,  the  whole  forming  a 
ca/alcade  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  pairs.  Having  reached  a  large  store- 
house, to  Avhich  the  altar  and  images  were  carried,  the  priest  pro- 
ceeded to  baptize  the  two  men,  their  wives,  and  three  children ;  but  in- 
stead of  being  merely  sprinkled  with  water,  they,  men  and  women,  were 
obliged  one  and  all  to  strip,  and  to  be  three  times  plunged  into  a  large 
iron  caldron  of  ice-water,  with  the  thermometer  on  the  spot  at  forty- 
seven  degrees  below  zero,  with  no  part  of  their  dress  on  except  their 
trowsers ;  and  were  afterward  directed  to  bathe  their  feet  in  the  same 
cold  water.  I  could  not  help  pitying  the  women  and  children,  the 
former  of  whom,  having  long  hair,  became,  as  it  were,  enveloped  in 
icicles.  A  small  cross  suspended  round  the  neck,  with  many  difficult 
and  almost  useless  injunctions  how  to  pronounce  their  newly-acquired 
names,  completed  the  ceremony.  A  quantity  of  tobacco  was  then  given 
as  a  present  to  each  of  the  new  converts,  by  way  of  inducing  otheis  to 
follow  the  example. 

"I  next  day  visited  their  camp,  distant  abont  two  miles  and  a  half. 
It  consisted  of  three  large  and  three  small  tents.  The  former  contained 
the  bulk  of  tho  Tchukskoi  people,  and  the  latter  were  appropriated  to 
the  chiefs  and  more  considerable  people.  The  large  tents  were  disgust- 
ingly dirty  and  offensive,  exhibiting  every  species  of  grossness  and  in- 


i-tiH^ 


COC II  RANK'S 


JOURNKY    THROUOII    SIBKRIA. 


Rut  tho  sma'lcr  were,  on  tl.o  r<,ntrary,  very  neat,  cloun,  ftjid 
delicacy.     But  the  8maicr%>i     '.  i,,.^^^,.^  below  zuio.    h\- 

warm,  althouglMvithout  a  ^"^^;  ^^X^    h^^ --^Y  -ij^'»'^  l'-"»  '""«' 
deed  thoy  wcro  to  "-/l'"7^J^;\''   ;,;i\.,     ol^.n/thr^^^  or  four  ,.co- 

dvvcllin.'s,  I  lound  the  chief  and  Ins  wito  perfectly  "a^'^*|' '^J  ; 

and  '™P"t«'\'V,nrv     Their  furniture  consists  of  a  large  kettle, 

live,  I  returned  to  the  fortress,  driven   by  one  ot  the  clnets 
nar^e,  drawn  by  a  couple  of  rein-deer  .n  a  V^J^'^^^^^^^nn 
,ar  reins,  made  of  leather  thongs,  -"'l^J.^Taer  is  exercised  oc^a- 
ivory  nob  to  it,  of  the  tooth  of  a  «^f  ^^^j^ j^^^j  ^  ^mblc  of  inflicting 

and  in  every  other  way  appear  »''«'"'^ .«» '''^^t  ,„  '2  narte,  when 
""* '^rS °"X;=™f  *  T»  Srl: pee„har,y  large, 

They  have  no  diseases,  and  live  to  a  great  age ,  J^^  J  J  j^     j^ad 

fair  being  past  seventy,  as  calculated  by  the  number  of  voyages  they  naa 
made  ere  thov  accompanied  Captain  Billings.' 

The  foi    It  length  finished.  Captain  Cochrane  prepared  to  depart 
fnr  Nishnlv  Ko  ymsk.     "  My  return  to  the  Kolyma,"  he  wn  es,     oc- 


amammmitme^ 


neat,  clean,  and    I 
below  zero.     In-     , 
eijrlit  feet  lou!?,     | 
livec  or  li)iir  peo-     , 
i-tlcer  skins  im'l     . 
are  inatk«  also  of 
on  the  iusule  and     j 
them  for  a  ligl'*'     j 
ino  of  these  small 

Led,  as  was  also  a 
did  tli(-y  seem  to     , 
but  ordered  the 
b  for  ns,  whu-h  she 
,t.     Ilavins  lolhnl     j 
vted  with  the  rein-     , 
)f  our  complement. 

rant  of  air  and  tho 
time. 

!  for  quitting  him, 
iscd  my  design  of 
,s  of  a  large  kettle, 
n  ax,  with  flint  and 
state  in  which  they 
^o  chiefs  in  a  neat 
le.    They  use  regu- 
iging  cane  with  an 
."r  is  exercised  oc^a-     j 
capable  of  inflicting     j 
,o  the  Tehuktchi  for     | 
,09,  whether  dogs  or     i 
A.    Nay,  to  so  great     j 
[age  nation  it  is  con-     | 
they  prefer  to  walk,     \ 
\xQ  labor  of  the  ani- 
,  in  the  nartes  when 
not  peculiarly  large, 
)us  size,  gives  them 
lear  skins,  but  ordm- 
r  are  wild  and  rude, 
o  of  the  chiets  at  the 
|r  of  voyages  they  had 

prepared  to  depart 
TOia,"  he  writes,  "  oc- 
Lofthe  carriage,  and 

Ittle  or  none  of  their 


JOUUNEY    TO    0K0T8K. 


408 


common  food  offering  for  sale  on  the  banks  of  tho  Aniuy.  I  was  most 
happy  to  meet  with  the  Haron  VV range),  who  had  returned  from  his  ex- 
jiedition  around  Skelatskoi  Noss," 

Captain  Coelirane  now  prepared  for  tho  journey  to  Okotsk.  lie 
Iiad  attempted  to  pcrsua<le  tlie  Tchuktehi  to  convey  him  througli  their 
country,  but  failing  in  this,  he  resolved  to  proceed  by  tho  direct  route, 
wliieh  was  most  difficult  and  dangerous,  rather  than  retrace  his  stops  a 
long  distance,  and  follow  a  monotonous  road  by  the  more  circuitous 
one.  Tho  commissary,  Cossacks,  and  Yakuti,  wjio  were  ordered  to  at- 
tend liim,  all  ronionst  rated ;  tho  latter  were  so  fearful  of  a  journey  of 
llie  kind  that  they  even  attempted  to  bribe  him  by  presents  to  take  an- 
fiflier,  but  the  captain  was  resolute.  "To  me,"  he  remarks,  "tho  hard- 
est (lay's  work  was  followed  by  the  Iiappicst  evening  and  the  soundest 
sleep  as  I  lay  down  on  my  snow  pillow." 

Wo  left  Lower  Kolymsk  on  the  27th  of  March  in  a  narto  drawn  by 
ihirfeen  dogs,  who  took  him  eighty  miles  a  day,  and  on  tho  fifth  day  ho 
arrived  at  Sredno,  or  Middle  Kolymsk.  Here  he  remained  two  days 
awaiting  a  fresh  Cossack,  who  was  to  attend  him  to  Okotsk.  "I  felt 
most  happy,"  he  observes,  "in  preparing  onco  more  to  tread  a  new 
road,  and  throw  aside  the  difficulties  which  were  forever  thundered  in 
my  ears."  Finally  they  set  out ;  on  the  second  day  they  were  thrown 
into  a  snow  pit,  and  tho  horses  becoming  disengaged  from  their  bur- 
thens, scrambled  up  the  pit,  leaving  the  travelers  and  baggage  to  shift 
for  themselves.  After  ten  miles'  walk  they  reached  a  yourte,  whose 
owner  sent  tor  the  baggage,  the  Yakuti  having  gone  for  the  horses. 

At  Verchne  (Upper)  Kolymsk  he  loft  the  Kolyma,  and  at  length 
reaching  the  Zyzanka,  pursued  his  route  through  tho  defiles  of  a  mount- 
ainous region.  Tho  party  subsisted  on  partridges  and  hares  found  in 
traps  by  tho  wayside.  "  Wo  at  length  entered  upon  the  Hokusolbetio 
and  Bochiera,  two  .'vers,  which,  entering  tho  Zyzanka  at  a  narrow  de- 
file, form  a  sort  of  frozen  torrent,  over  which  the  horses  had  great  diffi- 
culty to  pass,  aa  piles  of  ice  lay  in  every  cross  direction.  The  Cossack 
and  guide  now  began  also  to  suffer,  while  I  was  gaining  ground  from 
habit  and  superior  strength  of  constitution.  The  guide  was  almost 
blind,  while  the  Cossack  was  afilicted  with  a  severe  diarrhoea  arising 
from  want  of  food,  for  our  game  had  failed  us,  and  he  was  too  much 
a  Greek  to  eat  horse-meat.  It  was,  however,  his  ovm  fault,  for  he  al- 
ways ate  voraciously  whenever  an  occasion  offered. 

"The  snow  was  deep  but  soft,  the  noon-day  heat  melting  the  surfiice, 
and  the  night's  frost  again  freezing  it,  just  sufliciently  to  bear  a  man 
with  snow-shoes;  so  that,  in  addition  to  our  other  difficulties,  the  horses 
began  to  fail.  Vfe  nevertheless  continued  our  route,  gaining  the  Zy- 
zanka, and  laterally  erossiiig  the  moimtains  which  confine  it.  We  then 
entered  the  most  dismnl,  dreary,  and  inhospitable  valley  I  have  ever 
Been ;  not  a  blade  of  grass,  nor  moss,  not  a  shrub,  tree,  nor  even  a 
morsel  of  drift  wood,  to  be  seen,  but  one  tremendous  slate  mountain 


_i 


m 


IMMW 


'^         COCnKAKK-sTTOU^NKV    THBOUOU    SIDKHIV. 
..ney.     Wo  encamped  on  the  V.^^  1;^.^ :?".! 'ui:^"  "^ 

Humed,  and  I  longed  to  ^T^^^^^^U  -d  «o  weak  that  it 
grew  wor«e,  having  been  ^^'-^^'^  ^f/j^'^'^he  guide  wan  almost  blind, 
l^  nece««ary  to  lanh  hjm  to  the  hor^e         J^^  ^^^  j 

being  unable  even  to  ^""K  ^"'«„ ''''"' ,„  ,.f  ostler,  wood-cutter,  guido, 
Jlu8  compelled  to  perform  the  ^';";^^X.    tho^^^^^^^^^ 
doctor,  cook,  and  traveler ;  regreUmg  on  y  the  n  ^^  _  J^^^^^  ^  ^^^^  ^  ^^^^ 

uie  80  to  act,  for  otherwise  I  took  bo  uu 

""t  remained  at  a  miserable  yourte  ^ve  ^iayM^-U^^^  \^kt  :1:     ' 
in  .Ling  the  Co-k;^^^^^^^^^^^  -n.     Ho     i 

feet  high,  and  stout  in  f  ^^'^^'^  „„^^^^  word  of  the  Iluss.un  lun- 
was,  however,  a  mere  >';»^;-;!  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^  immovably  lazy.  On  the 
guage,  a  great  glutton,  stup.d  o^^^^^^^^^  stupendous  path,  wlueh 
fifth  day  after  startmg  "g"^'" J^  f^'^^^t'  but  also  the  other  mount- 
overlooks  not  only  the  '^"^^""^"^^'^"^Z^iw.ry  that  the  horses  got 
ains ;  it  is  almost  a  bare  rock  ^"  J  ^^^^^^^J^^e^  inoment  as  much  as 
very  severe  falls  in  the  ascent,  f^'J^S^^^''  ^^^^^  despaired  of  gaining 
it  had  taken  ten  minutes  labor  to  achieve.    1  aim  p  ^^^^^^^^ 

le  summit,  but  we  at  ^-^J^  ^^.^^^^^^^^^ 

«Ud  down  the  opposite  P^'P'^;  "4^^'^;reonsidered  it,  as  it  really  was      : 
covered  with  frozen  snow,    ^or  mysui  ^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^^^^^ 

an  ice  mountain,  and  desinng  the  guide  to  tol      ,  p  ^^^  ^^^^. 

any  accident.    I  was  "^  ^^f^J/./re/eatures,  sent  to  my  assist-     I 
dencc,  which  ever  watches  the  wants  oi  a  .^^^^^^^  ^^^„. 

ance  the  sick  Cos«ick,  -^^J^^^2\tJ^^^^^^^^^^       ««  -'"'^  ^"  '''" 
gage,  had  followed  our  track  with  a  conp.«  .,,g  „„t 

!l^  lo  tell  us  that  we  had  «»f  «^^"/,'  ^ ^^^^^    „ot  feel  so  thankful  as 

to  the  Kolyma.  .  ^    .    „  ,,  „„,.v  rituation,  without  any  fire.     My 

«  We  passed  the  night  in  a  dreary  situa^n,  ^^^^^.^^^^  ^^^^ 

tea  and  bread  were  both  consumed  ,notlungi  ^^^^        ^  ^^^^ 

horseflesh,  which  I  found  very  g-^  :  J^*^^^^^^^^^^^  eould,  or  would  eat, 
birds,  but  as  I  knew  that  f  «^. "^'^'^^^Vrd'  we  considered  how  to  a.- 
of  course  I  gave  them  up  to  him^  ,^'f,Sippery,  and  there  appeared 
cend  the  mountain;  ^^e  snow  was  solid  and  supply,  ^^^  ^.^^^^ 

no  other  mode  than  the  one  which  ^^  f  J^^f-^;  -ntefvals,  to  obtain 
and  chopping  the  surtace  -rth  a  ha  ch  t  ^^-^^  ^^^^^,  ^,,„aed,  and 


,^.  'I  11111   III  im« 


fiirinR  upon  our     ■ 

M>or  Cossack  now 
J  go  weak  U»at  it 
vaa  almost  blintl, 
,  pasturo.     1  waH 
rood-cutter,  puxlc, 
litythatcoinpolU-a 
it,  that  I  sK-i't  tl'« 

BO  what  1  could  do 
with  a  Yak»t,Hix 
ivo  ever  Been.     lU' 
of  the  Ilussian  \m\- 
mblylazy-     On  the 
endouiJ  path,  which 
o  the  other  mount- 
that  the  horsoH  got 
moment  as  much  as 
t  despaired  of  gainmg 

the  horses  actually 
thigh,  the  rock  being 
ed  it,  as  it  really  was, 
passed  down  without 
dilemma;  but  Provi- 

•es,  sent  to  my  assist- 
idbeinf   .ithout  bag-     \ 

jes.    lie  came  in  tunc     I 
li .  duty  pointing  out 
ot  feel  BO  thankful  a,s 
,  illness  was  pretended, 

-vong,  or  he  might  not 
1  from  me  to  proceed 

without  any  fire.    My 
i,i  short  remained  but 
,ck  had  brought  a  ftw 
,e  could,  or  would  cat, 
considered  how  to  as- 
ery,  and  there  appeared 
-creeping  np  the  side, 
uent  intervals,  to  obtain 
B  Cossack  ascended,  and 
hauled  up  the  baggage 
„g  ourselves  between  it 
more  management ;  lor, 


A    PERILOUS    SITUATION. 


405 


arcustomed  ns  tho  horses  arc  to  the  most  lahnrions  and  dangerous  jour- 
neys, and  with  all  their  sagacity  and  taineiicss,  I  found  (hey  (Huiid  not 
ascend  nhovo  half  tlic  mountain,  tho  flitiguo  was  too  great  ;  in  short, 
ihcy  were  compelled  to  give  it  up,  and  recoil  ono<'  more  to  the  ])aao  in 
a  state  of  perfect  agony.  Thus  paswd  the  day  !  Our  situation  now 
seenu'd  desperate  ;  tho  horses  had  received  no  food  for  two  days,  with 
more  than  ordinary  hard  work,  during  whidi  we  hud  enjoyed  no  fire  ; 
yet  still  "neboice  avoco  leh(»"  (fear  not — perhaps)  were  the  rallying 
words,  and  these  alone  served  us  for  supper.  Our  monster  of  a  guide 
was  quite  insensible  to  our  situation,  nn<l  sat  grumbling  that  ho  had  not 
more  than  twenty  pounds  of  meat  a  day,  with  such  hard  work. 

"  This  night  was  passed  oven  inoro  miserably  than  tho  last,  as  we  had 
not  even  the  benefit  of  our  bedding  or  clothing,  both  of  which  had  been 
hurled  down  tho  opposite  valley,  without  respect  to  whom  they  belonged. 
"Wo  rose  the  third  morning,  prepared  for  hard  Avork ;  and  our  first  at- 
tempt was  to  haul  tho  horses  up  the  precipice,  W^o  in  part  succeeded, 
as  tho  strongest  were  actually  received,  and  cast  adrift  on  the  opposite 
side  to  feed.  Tliis  occupied  us  all  day,  and  the  third  night  was  passed 
with  tho  cheering  hopes  of  resuming  our  journey  the  following  day  ; 
but  these  were  frustrated,  as  it  was  not  until  late  in  the  evening  that 
we  succeeded  in  passing  all  tho  horses  we  designed  to  keep ;  one  we 
wore  obliged  to  kill  and  carry  with  us  as  food.  Our  bully-headed  Yakut, 
too,  became  wonderfully  alert  on  this  occasion,  knowing  he  should  re- 
ceive aii  extra  allowance  of  meat,  were  it  for  no  other  reason  than  to 
lighten  the  other  brutes.  I,  however,  determined  to  make  some  reserve, 
and  accordingly  taking  a  quantity  of  tho  slaughtered  animal,  sufficient 
to  serve  the  Yakut  on  his  return,  I  buried  it  in  the  snow,  which  I  thought 
would  continue  unraelted  for  ten  or  twelve  days,  and  marked  the  place 
with  a  cross.  This  precaution  I  considered  was  more  than  ordinarily 
necessary  with  my  gigantic  companion,  who  had  infinitely  less  concern 
toward  tho  prevention  of  future  starvation  than  to  the  support  of  pres- 
ent gluttony. 

"  The  only  mode  of  passing  the  last  three  horses  was  by  making  a 
regular  staircase  np  tho  hill,  by  means  of  axes,  and  strewing  it  with 
earth ;  myself  and  the  Cossack,  who  were  on  the  hill,  holding  a  rope 
attached  to  the  horse's  head,  while  the  guide  behind,  whose  task  it  was 
to  flog  the  beast,  had  no  sinecure,  as  from  his  immoderate  size  he  was 
almost  himself  incapable  of  moving.  The  result  of  the  last  five  days  was 
that  we  had  lost  five  days'  traveling,  five  days  of  the  best  season,  and 
five  days  which  were  worth  fifty  of  those  which  followed  :  the  fault  was 
not  mine !  Tho  weather  was  still  very  cold,  and  I  felt  some  relief  in 
getting  close  to  a  cheerful  fire.  Next  day  I  directed  my  course  by  a 
compass,  for  the  guide  knew  nothing  about  west-south-west,  intending, 
if  possible,  to  gain  the  river  Indigirka." 

By  continual  exertions,  walking,  wading  across  streams,  and  some- 
times swimming  the  rapid  currents  of  rivers,  he  at  length  reached  the 


406 


COCHRANK'S   JOURNKY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 


Omekon  district,  where  lie  a^aiu  ciitcroil  an  inhabited  region.  "  We 
were  now,"  he  observes,  "  renewed  with  fresh  courage,  and  my  Cossaclc 
particularly  inspirited  with  a  regale  of  beef  which  had  been  given  him  at 
the  first  yourte.  For  niyself  I  preferred  to  partake  of  the  old  horse- 
meat  I  had  still  left  ;  havhig  a  mind  to  shame  the  Cossack  and  show  him 
that  he  ought  to  eat  any  thing  when  necessity  dictated.  I  liud  passed 
twelve  days  without  any  other  food  than  the  liorse-meat  we  had  brought, 
generally  eaten  in  a  raw  st.-ite,  and  a  small  part  of  the  animal  we  had 
killed  ;  yet  I  was  never  in  better  lu-alth.  I  remained  three  days  at  the 
Omekon,  and  was  again  obliged  to  leave  my  Cossack,  from  ill  health  and 
fatigue.  Having  procure<l  in  his  stead  a  young  lad,  born  in  the  valley 
of  Omekon,  with  him,  and  four  of  the  native  pruices  in  my  train,  I  de- 
parted along  the  banks  oi  the  river." 

Following  this  stream  to  its  confluence  with  the  Indigirka,  lie  then 
crossed  the  mountains  to  the  country  watered  by  the  Tourrourak,  and 
halted  at  the  last  yourte  in  the  government  of  Yakutsk,  Here  he  ap- 
plied to  a  prince  of  the  wandering  Tongousi,  for  reindeer  and  further 
assistance  on  his  journey.  After  some  delay  the  prince  finally  consented 
to  take  him,  and  on  the  third  day  they  set  out  with  fifty  head  of  rein- 
deer. They  made  good  progress  for  a  few  days,  but  at  length  the  rein- 
deer began  to  lag  and  droop,  the  weather  became  bad,  and  the  prince 
having  lost  several  of  his  animals,  threatened  to  leave  the  captain  or 
carry  him  back.  To  this  the  latter  was  not  disposed  to  submit.  They 
had  reached  an  elevated  pass  in  the  mountains,  leading  to  the  vicinity 
of  Indgiga,  but  were  unable  to  cross  it,  owing  to  the  state  of  the  snow. 
On  the  sixth  day  they  renewed  the  attempt,  but  were  obliged  to  give  it 
up,  three  laden  reindeer  being  dead  and  the  rest  too  weak  to  convey 
the  carcases  or  the  baggage.  They  remained  three  days  to  recruit  the 
reindeer,  and  then  resolved  to  return  to  the  Omekon  and  attempt  the 
long  passage  with  horses.  The  prince  now  complained  that  he  had  not 
force  sufficient  to  carry  the  baggage,  and  Captain  Cochrane  Avas  obliged 
to  destroy  the  greater  part  of  it.  When  the  Tongousian  saw  what  he 
was  about,  he  remonstrated,  asking  why  he  did  not  give  the  things  to 
him.  As  it  was  evident,  however,  that  the  prince  had  been  duping  him, 
and,  as  he  thought,  compelling  him  to  forsake  his  baggage,  the  captain 
reluctantly  persisted  in  burning  his  clothing  and  bedding,  in  spite  of  the 
violent  demonstrations  of  the  latter,  who  brought  forward  the  image  of 
the  virgin  and  his  patron  saint,  and  spit,  swore,  stamped,  and  crossed 
himself  like  a  madman.  At  length  he  told  the  captain  it  had  been  pre- 
viously arranged  that  the  latter  should  return  to  the  Omekon,  to  which 
place  he  actually  returned  on  the  eighteenth  day,  recrossmg  the  Tour- 
rourak and  Boulabot  rivers  with  much  difficulty. 

Procuring  fresh  horses  the  captain  again  left  the  Omekon.  The  snow 
was  now  softened  by  heavy  rains,  but  was  still  so  deep  as  to  impede 
their  progress  and  to  deprive  the  horses  of  their  accustomed  nourish- 
ment.   "The  Yakuti,"  says  the  captam,  "put  on  long  faces  at  the  ob- 


JRIA. 

region.     "  Wc 
ad  my  Cossack 
n  given  him  at 
the  old  liorse- 
i  and  show  him 
,     I  hud  passed 
^e  had  brought, 
animal  we  had 
iree  days  at  the 
m  ill  health  and 
»rn  in  the  valley 
I  my  train,  I  de- 

digirka,  he  then 
Tourrourak,  and 
jk.    Here  he  ap- 
ileer  and  further     ^ 
finally  consented     j 
ifty  head  of  rein-     i 
t  length  the  rein- 
d,  and  the  prince 
e  the  captain  or 
;o  submit.    They 
ig  to  the  vicinity 
tatc  of  the  snow, 
obliged  to  give  it 
a  weak  to  convey 
ays  to  recruit  the 
and  attempt  the 
d  that  he  had  not 
irane  was  obliged 
isian  saw  what  he 
five  the  things  to 
been  duping  him, 
gage,  the  captain 
ng,  in  spite  of  the 
irard  the  image  of 
nped,  and  crossed 
n  it  had  been  pre- 
Omekon,  to  which 
crossing  the  Tour- 


nekon.  The  snow 
eep  as  to  impede 
".customed  nourish- 
ing faces  at  the  ob- 


SWIMMING    TUB    OKOTA. 


407 


structions  we  met  with,  never  having  witnessed  such  deep  and  difficult 
roads,  for  in  ordinary  times  good  pasturage  is  to  be  had  in  this  part  of 
the  valley.  The  horses  having  to  contend  with  such  difficulties,  our 
journey  was  continued  on  foot.  My  snow-shoes  I  gave  up  to  one  of  the 
guides,  in  consideration  of  his  being  very  heavy,  while,  for  myself,  with 
a  quick  motion,  my  weight  Avas  not  sufficient  to  permit  my  sinking  in 
the  snow ; — in  case  I  had,  the  guide  with  snow-shoes  was  near  to  render 
me  assistance.  Wo  were  now  frequently  compelled  to  wander  about  on 
the  borders  of  precipices,  directing  our  route  by  the  shade  or  appearance 
of  the  snow ;  habit  having  accustomed  me,  as  well  as  the  people  of  the 
country,  to  a  pretty  accurate  calculation  whether  or  not  the  snow  would 
bear  me.  I  have  even  seen  the  horses  refuse  to  proceed,  their  sagacity 
in  that  case  being  equal  to  man's ;  nor  will  the  leading  dog  of  a  narte, 
if  ho  is  good,  run  the  vehicle  into  a  track  where  there  is  deep  snow  or 
water. 

"  At  length,  by  great  labor,  we  reached  the  fording-place  at  the 
Okota.  It  was,  however,  impossible  to  attempt  it,  the  guides  observing 
that  the  horses  might  pass  the  river,  but  not  loaded.  We  therefore 
halted,  and  next  morning  found  a  place  where  there  was  a  canoe  on  the 
opposite  bank.  Thereupon  unloading  the  horses,  we  turned  them  into 
the  river,  and  they  all  reached  the  opposite  bank  in  safety.  The  question 
then  was  how  to  get  the  canoe  over ;  I  was  the  only  person  who  could 
swim,  but  the  water  was  still  so  cold  that  I  felt  no  preference  to  that 
mode.  Necessity  at  last  compelled  me,  and  having  procured  a  short 
stout  jjiece  of  drift  wood,  which  was  very  buoyant,  I  crossed  at  a  narrow 
part  of  the  stream,  with  a  leather  thong  fast  to  my  waist.  The  rapidity 
of  the  stream  carried  me  down  above  a  hundred  yards,  but  the  Vakuti, 
kc(!ping,  by  a  sort  of  run,  in  a  parallel  line,  were  ready  to  haul  me  back, 
if  necessary.  I,  however,  reached  in  safety  ;  and,  instantly  throwing  off 
my  clothes,  took  violent  exercise.  The  breadth  of  the  swimming  part 
might  only  have  been  fifteen  or  twenty  yards,  and  across  the  strength 
of  the  stream  possibly  not  more  than  four  or  five  yards ;  yet  I  barely  ac- 
complished it.  The  feat  was  thankfully  acknowledged  by  the  astonished 
Yakuti  Avhon  I  returned  with  an  excellent  canoe." 

The  Okota  was  so  much  swollen  by  the  rains,  that  the  Captain  left  a 
Yakut  with  the  horses,  and  decided  to  take  to  the  water.  "To  starve 
on  one  side  of  the  river,  be  drowned  in  it,  or  die  upon  the  other  side, 
appeared  alike  to  :ne,"  he  says,  "  and  I  accordingly  embarked  our  little 
baggage  upon  the  raft,  composed  of  ten  logs  of  trees  about  fifteen  feet 
long,  crossed  by  five  others,  and  again  crossed  by  two  more,  to  form  a 
seat  for  the  person  taking  charge  of  the  baggage,  which  was  lashed  to 
the  raft. 

"  It  was  with  difficulty  we  moved  our  vessel  into  the  main  channel, 
from  the  number  of  eddies ;  but  having  once  reached  it,  we  descended 
in  a  most  astonishing  manner,  sometimes  actually  making  the  head  giddy 
as  we  passed  the  branches  of  trees,  rocks,  or  islands.     No  accident  hap- 


408         COCHRANE'9   JOURNEY    THROUGH    SIBERIA. 

pen•.n.^  and  the  river  widening,  I  began  to  congratulate  my  compamonB 
on  t  rprobability  of  breakfasting  the  next  day  in  Okotsk ;  but  as  yet  I 
Tad  no?got  upon  the  proper  side  of  the  stream,  the  islands  and  shoals 
Jletually  tuning  Joft    The  Cossack  and  Yakut  contmued  ma  state 
ofTarm  not  entirely  without  cause,  for  upon  roundmg  a  pomt  of  land 
we  observed  a  large  tree  jutting  into  the  river,  with  a  tremendous  and 
Tnid  surf  running  over  i't,  the  branches  of  the  tree  preventmg  the  raft 
from  p^ing  oJ  the  body  of  it,  which  wa.  so  deep  m  tl-  -t- as   o 
preclude  a  hope  of  escaping  with  life-it  was  at  le^t  imposs  ble  to  a  oh 
beinff  wrecked     The  Cossack  and  Yakut  crossed  themselves,  while  I 
w^OuTetly  awaiting  the  result  in  the  bow.    We  struck,  and  such  was 
r for  e  of  the  rebound,  that  I  was  in  hopes  we  should  have  been  thro.-n 
outsrthe  shaft  in  the  subsequent  approach      ^  ^^l^^^^^^^l^^^^^^ 
minted  for  the  forepart  of  the  raft  was  actually  BUcked  under  the  tree 
^d  the  afterpart  rose'so  high  out  of  tl- water,  that  it  ccnjpetelyt^^^^^^^^ 
over   bringing  the  baggage  under  water;  the  v/hole  then    with  the 
St  rd'Ssack,  procfeded  down  the  stream,  and  fortunately  brough 
up  upon  an  island  about  one  hundred  yards  below.    In  the  -a"  -» '^« 
mv  rituation  was  dangerous ;  being  in  the  bow,  I  could  not  hold  on  the 
S  ^my  companion!  had  been  able  to  do,  for  fear  of  bei-g J-^^^^^ 
between  the  raft  and  the  tree.    I  therefore  quitted  ™y  ^^I'l'  ;«j'  ;;^*'^  '^. 
finite  difficulty,  clung  to  the  outer  branches  on  t^«  ^^Pf  «f^f  J^^'/^^^^ 
my  body  was  sucked  under,  and  no  part  of  me  was  «"^  ^f^'l^/J^^^^J^^ 
4  head  and  arms.    I  could  not  long  remam  m  such  as  ate    and  mak 
■Jr,  therefore,  one  vigorous  effort,  on  the  success  of  which  it  was  clear 
m;'life  depended,  I  gained  the  top  of  the  tree     I  --/^J^^-J  ^f^^^^. 
upper  parka,  when  the  branch  gave  way,  and  I  dropped  down,  I'^i"  drown 
"„T  o  the  inland.    It  was  a  fortunate  circumstance  that  the  raft  uj^et 
L  Otherwise  it  could  not  have  brought  up  at  the  island ;  which  it  did  in 
Isequence  of  the  baggage  lashed  to  the  raft  ^fS -^-P^  '^^'^^^^ 
Our  situation,  notwithstanding,  upon  the  island,  "^^'^  ^l^^^JT^ 
pleasant.    On  either  side  of  us  was  a  rapid  channel,  and  I  was  as  for  aj 
ever  from  accomplishing  the  object  I  had  in  view;  which  was  that  of 
setting  upon  the  right  bank  of  the  river;  for  then  I  might  expect  to 
ret  h  fome  habitation,  there  being  none  upon  the  left  bank  nearer  than 
s  X  hund"  d  miles,  halfway  to  Idgiga.    My  first  care  was  to  change  my 
wet  clothes,  and  ;arm  myself  by  exercise;  tho  next  was   o  unlash  and 
land  the  baggage,  and  to  save  as  much  of  the  raft  as  possible,  our  de  iv- 
eranco  deptfdfng  upon  it.    By  hard  work  we  ^<^^orn,A.^^^^^^^^^ 
Bun  had  set ;  after  which  it  soon  began  to  be  very  cold.    The  «??««'•»"«« 
of  the  nigM  was  unfavorable,  as  it  foreboded  ram;  it  wouldjhere[^^^^^ 
have  been  highly  indiscreet  to  remain  longer  than  necessary  ;  as  me  river 
might,  in  one  night,  so  increase  as  to  cover  the  island 

To  launch  a  raft  into  the  channel  I  could  not  ^ttemp  ,  as  by  that 
time  it  would  be  dark,  and  we  should  certainly  meet  with  the  same  ac- 
cent Id  probably  v^orsc  results.    I  therefore  walked  toward  the  end 


BERIA. 

J  my  companions 
tsk ;  but  as  yet  I 
lands  and  shoals 
itinucd  in  a  state 
T  a  point  of  lond, 
,  tremendous  and 
•eventing  the  raft 
,n  the  water  as  to 
ipossible  to  avoid 
emsclvea,  while  I 
ick,  and  such  was     ' 
have  been  thrown     j 
},  however,  disap-     j 
ed  under  the  tree, 
completely  turned 
le  then,  with  the 
)rtunately  brought 
In  the  mean  while 
d  not  hold  on  the 
"  being  jammed  in 
hold,  and,  with  in- 
lid  side  of  the  tree; 
It  of  the  water  but 
a  state  ;  and  mak- 
which  it  was  clear 
IS  throwing  oflf  my 
ldown,halfdrown- 
hat  the  raft  upset, 
id ;  which  it  did  in 
o  deep  in  the  water, 
was  by  no  means 
and  I  was  as  far  as 
which  was  that  of 
I  might  expect  to 
\  bank  nearer  than 
e  was  to  change  my 
t  was  to  unlash  and 
i  possible,  our  deliv- 
implished  it  ere  the 
id.    The  appearance 
it  would  therefore 
cessary  ;  as  the  river 

d. 

attempt,  as  by  that 
5t  with  the  same  ac- 
Iked  toward  the  end 


FURTHER   PERILS.— OKOTSK. 


409 


of  the  island,  till  I  camo  opj^site  to  a  large  tree  wliii;h  had  fallen  from 
the  continent  nearly  half  way  across  the  narrowest  part  of  the  channel, 
which  might  be  about  fifty  or  sixty  feet.  To  swim  through  the  central 
part  of  it  was  impossible ;  but  it  appeared  to  me  piobablc,  with  the  help 
of  nautical  ingenuity,  to  save  not  only  ourselves,  but  also  the  baggage; 
and  this  I  accomplished  in  a  true  sailor-like  fashion." 

Ho  constructed  a  floating  bridge  from  the  timbers  of  the  raft,  by 
first  fastening  some  of  the  pieces  to  the  shore,  and  securing  the  outer 
iikIs  against  the  current  by  means  of  lines  fastened  up  the  stream,  then 
lashing  other  pieces  to  the  ends  of  these  and  securing  them  in  the  same 
manner,  until  the  third  course  rested  against  the  tree.  Over  this  rude 
structure  ho  passed  in  safety,  followed  by  the  Cossack,  but  the  Yakut 
Avould  not  venture.  The  captain  then  returned,  and  making  a  raft  of 
the  bridge,  ferried  over  the  Yakut,  baggage,  and  lastly  himself,  assisted 
by  the  Cossack  with  a  line  from  the  opposite  shore.  On  the  last  passage 
the  raft  upset,  and  the  captain  was  pulled  ashore  with  his  clothes  sur- 
rounding him  in  a  casing  of  ice. 

A  fire  was  now  kindled,  but  the  height  of  the  grass  and  the  dryness 
of  tiie  wood  was  such  that  the  whole  forest  was  soon  enveloped  in  flame, 
and  they  were  obliged  to  work  hard  to  prevent  it  from  being  fatal  to 
them.  Tlio  great  tire  induced  the  other  guide  to  swim  the  horses 
across  to  their  relief.  All  were  now  reunited,  and  after  spending  the 
night  in  drying  their  clothes,  they  resumed  the  journey  next  morning. 
This  was  the  third  day  without  food,  and  on  the  sixth,  with  little  else 
than  berries  to  keep  their  spirits  up,  they  arrived  at  the  habitation  of  a 
Yakut  prince,  upon  an  island  in  the  Okota.  "  My  host,"  says  the  cap- 
tain,  "  was  neither  civil  nor  hospitable  ;  but  by  a  sort  of  force  I  got  some 
horse-meat  from  him,  and  which  I  considered,  at  that  time,  a  great  del- 
icacy, added  to  some  bread  Avhich  I  procured  from  the  sailors  and 
carpenters  employed  in  felling  timber  for  the  dock-yard  of  Okotsk. 

"Fresh  horses  were  given  to  me  at  this  station,  and  I  proceeded  on 
to  Okotsk.  The  route  lay  through  some  fine  park-like  scenery,  and  then 
over  a  thick  sandy  forest  of  tall  pine-trees;  the  weather  was  most  un- 
favorable, as  it  rained  hard.  At  length  I  reached  the  eastern  sea-coast, 
that  is,  the  North  Pacific  Ocean,  and  was  compelled  to  halt  at  a  miser- 
able hut,  affording  scarcely  a  shelter  from  the  elements.  The  following 
morning,  to  assist  the  Yakuti,  who  begged  of  me  to  leave  their  horses 
in  the  pasture,  I  paddled  along  the  stream  to  the  old  town  of  Okotsk; 
and  calling  on  the  police-master,  was  by  him,  in  the  government  boat, 
carried  over,  with  all  the  formality  and  respect  due  to  my  rank,  to  the 
abode  of  the  chief  of  Okotsk,  Vladimir  Ushinsky." 

It  was  on  the  19th  of  June,  1821,  that  Captain  Cochrane  arrived  at 
Okotsk.  His  object  in  undertaking  this  long  and  painful  journey,  had 
been  first  to  ascertain  the  situation  of  Skelatskoi  Noss,  then  to  trace  the 
American  continent  as  far  as  possible  to  the  north-east.  But  the  first 
problem  being  solved  by  Baron  Wrangel's  expedition,  and  a  fleet  hav- 


mni-'^tri 


410 


COCHRANE'S   JOURNEY    THROUGH   SIBERIA. 


ing  already  gone  to  America,  he  accordingly  gave  up  his  design  and 
resolved  to  retrace  his  steps  to  Europe,  after  spending  a  winter  in  Kamt- 
chatka.  He  embarked  on  the  24th  of  August,  and  in  two  weeks  ar- 
rived  in  the  harbor  of  Petropaulovsk.  While  in  Kamtchatka  he  married 
a  native,  and  after  a  stay  of  eleven  months,  during  which  he  made  the 
circuit  of  the  peninsula,  he  embarked  with  his  wife  for  Okotsk,  on  the 
Othof  July,  1822,  on  his  homeward  journey. 

After  a  toilsome  return  journey  he  reached  Irkutsk  in  the  beginning 
of  Decombor,  and  remained  there  until  the  7th  of  January,  when  he  set 
out  on  an  excursion  along  the  Chinese  frontier.  He  was  absent  a  month 
on  this  journey,  and  on  the  11th  of  February  took  his  departure  frona 
Irkutsk  His  homeward  route  was  over  the  same  ground  which  he  had 
traversed  on  his  outward  journey,  and  was  marked  by  few  adventures. 
"Descending  the  western  branch  of  the  Ural  Mountains,"  he  says,  I 
soon  found  myself  again  in  Europe :  the  land  of  malt,  the  fire-side  home, 
again  had  charms  for  the  traveler.  The  sensations  I  experienced  upon 
quittin.'  the  most  favored  quarter  of  the  globe,  were  nothing  when  com- 
pared to  the  present.  Then  I  thought  I  was  going  only  to  the  abode  of 
misery,  vice,  and  cruelty,  while  now  I  knew  I  had  come  from  that  of 
humanity,  hospitality,  and  kindness.  I  looked  back  to  the  hills,  w'  ich 
are  as  it  were,  the  barrier  between  virtue  and  vice,  but  felt,  in  spite  of 
it,  a  desire  to  return  and  end  my  days.  And  so  strong  is  still  that  de- 
sire that  I  should  not  hesitate  to  bid  adieu  to  poUtics,  war,  and  other 
refined  pursuits,  to  enjoy  in  Central  Siberia  those  comforts  which  may 
be  had  without  fear  of  foreign  or  domestic  disturbance. 

"At  length  I  arrived  safely  in  St.  Petersburg,  from  which  I  had 
been  absent  exactly  three  years  and  three  weeks,  and  to  which  I  had 
returned  iu  infinitely  better  health  than  when  I  left  it." 


ERIA. 

his  design  and 
ivintei*  in  Kamt- 

two  weeks  ar- 
atka  he  married 
ich  ho  made  the 

Okotsk,  on  the 

a  the  beginning 
ry,  when  he  set 
absent  a  month 
departure  from 
id  which  he  had 
few  adventures. 
ins,"  he  says,  "  I 
e  fire-side  home, 
xperienced  upon 
ihing  when  com- 
r  to  the  abode  of 
me  from  that  of 
I  the  hills,  w^'ich 
t  felt,  in  spite  of 
g  is  still  that  de- 
j,  war,  and  other 
iforts  which  may 

om  which  I  had 
to  which  I  had 


GOLOWNIN'S 


CAPTIVITY     IN     JAPAN. 


Captaix  "Wassh,!  Golownin,  while  commanding  the  Russian  sloop- 
oflwar  Diana,  lyuig  in  the  harbor  of  Petropaulovsk,  in  Kamtchatka,  re- 
ceived an  order  from  the  Russian  Minister  of  Marine,  directing  him  to 
make  a  minute  survey  of  the  Southern  Kurile  Islands  and  the  coast  of 
Tartary,  from  latitude  63°  38'  north,  to  Okotsk.  lie  accordingly  sailed 
on  the  4th  of  May,  1811,  and  after  a  voyage  of  ten  days  reached  Na- 
deshda  Straits,  between  two  of  the  Kurile  Islands,  where  his  surveys 
were  to  commence.  He  had  determined,  on  approaching  the  northern 
shore  of  the  Japanese  island  of  Jesso,  to  hold  no  intercourse  with  the 
Japanese,  fearful  that  any  such  attempt  might  excite  suspicion  and  dis- 
trust. The  Chamberlain  ResanofT,  who  was  sent  to  Japan  by  the 
Emperor  Alexander  in  the  year  1803,  had  been  obliged  to  return  unsuc- 
cessful, and  out  of  a  silly  revenge  for  this  repulse.  Lieutenant  Chwostoff, 
who  commanded  the  vessel  m  which  ResanofT  was  taken  from  Nagasaki 
to  Okotsk,  attacked  and  destroyed  several  villages  in  the  Japanese  Ku- 
lile  Islands.  This  Avanton  outrage  had  provoked  the  hostility  of  the 
Japanese  government,  and  Captain  Golowuin  therefore  felt  the  necessity 
of  caution  in  approaching  the  coast. 

On  the  17th  of  June  his  vessel  reached  the  Kurile  island  of  Eetoo- 
roop,  where  he  accidentally  fell  in  with  some  Japanese,  to  the  chief  of 
whom  he  explained  that  his  intentions  were  entirely  pacific,  as  he  was 
merely  looking  for  a  safe  harbor  where  he  might  procure  a  supply  of 
wood  and  water.  To  this  assurance,  the  oflicer  replied :  "  The  Japanese 
can  not  be  entirely  tranquil  and  free  from  apprehension  on  the  appear- 
ance of  a  Russian  ship,  for  some  years  ago  Russian  vessels  twice  attacked 
Japanese  villages,  and  carried  off  or  burnt  every  thing  they  found,  with- 
out  sparing  the  houses,  temples,  or  provisions.  Rice,  which  is  brought 
from  Japan  to  these  islands,  forms  the  principal  food  of  the  ihhabitante : 
but  the  first  attack  having  taken  place  late  m  autumn,  when  no  vessels 
could  be  sent  to  sea  to  bring  back  a  fresh  supply  for  winter,  and  the 
second  having  followed  early  in  spring,  before  the  usual  rice  ships  could 


■mtiiiii 


412 


GOLOWNIN'S   CAPTIVITY    IN   JAPAN. 


arrive,  these  circumstances,  joined  to  the  destruction  of  their  houses, 
caused  great  distress  to  the  Japanese,  many  of  whom  fell  sacrifices  to 
hunger  and  cold."  With  such  awkward  interpret»?r8  as  the  Kunles,  it 
was  not  an  easy  matter  for  Captain  Golownin  to  vindicate  himself 
against  so  serious  a  charge,  but  he  finally  succeeded,  as  he  supposed,  in 
convincing  the  Japanese  that  Chwostoff's  proceedings  were  entirely  un- 
authorized  by  the  Russian  government. 

"  While  I  was  conversing  with  the  chief  on  the  shore,"  says  Golow- 
nin "an  old  man  advanced  toward  me  with  demonstrations  of  thogreat- 
est'respect.    He  was  a  Toion,  or  chief  of  the  hairy  Kuriles  of  this  part 
of  the  island,  of  whom  there  were  here  about  fifty  mdividuals  of  both 
sexes-  and  they  seemed  to  be  so  oppressed  by  the  Japanese,  that  they 
dared  not  move  in  their  presence.    They  all  sat  crowded  together,  re- 
garding their  rulers  with  looks  of  terror;  and  whenever  they  had  oc- 
casion to  speak  to  them,  they  threw  thcmhalves  upon  their  knees,  with 
their  open  hands  pressed  closely  upon  their  sides,  their  heads  hanging 
downward,  and  their  whole  bodies  bowed  to  the  ground.     Our  Kunles 
observed  the  same  ceremony  when  they  addressed  us.    After  the  latter 
had  been  invited  to  come  on  board  our  vessel,  they  informed  us  that  the 
Japanese  persisted  in  believing  that  plunder  was  the  only  motive  which 
had  induced  us  to  visit  their  shores;  and  that  the  conduct  of  the  crews 
of  the  Company's  ships  had  excited  their  suspicions.    Whenever  they 
spoke  of  the  violent  proceedings  of  Chwostoff,  they  usually  said :    The 
Russians  attacked  us  without  cause,  killed  many  of  our  countrymen, 
took  several  prisoners,  plundered  us,  and  burned  all  we  possessed ;  they 
not  only  carried  off  our  goods,  but  likewise  all  our  rice  and  sagi,  and 
abandoned  us  to  all  the  misery  of  hunger.'"  ,  .,      .      ,  , 

Previous  to  leaving  the  island,  a  Kurilo  named  Alcxci,  who  spoke 
gome  Russian,  came  on  board,  and  was  retained,  at  his  own  request,  as 
an  interpreter.    Golownin  then  sailed  to  the  island  of  Ooroop,  which  he 
surveyed,  and  afterward,  at  Alcxei's  recommendation,  proceeded  to 
Kunashir,  the  twentieth  island  of  the  Kurile  chain.     On  the  mornmg  of 
the  5th  of  July  he  sailed  mto  the  harbor  of  Kunashir,  where  there  is  a 
fortified  village,  with  a  Japanese  garrison.    As  they  advanced   guns 
were  fired  from  the  port ;  from  which  circumstance  he  concluded  that 
the  Japanese  on  the  island  of  Eetooroop  had  not  yet  made  knowTi  to 
those  of  Kunashir  his  friendly  intentions.    As  ho  stood  in  nearer,  how- 
ever, the  firing  ceased.    The  fortifications  were  masked  with  screens  of 
striped  cloth,  so  that  he  could  perceive  neither  walls  nor  palissades.  After 
coming  to  anchor  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  quarter,  Golowimi  got 
into  a  boat  with  some  men,  and  rowed  toward  the  shore.    They  had 
approached  within  a  hundred  yards,  when  the  firing  agam  began,  and 
came  near  proving  filial.    They  immediately  put  about  and  rowed  qmckly 

back  to  the  vessel.  .   , ..    ^  ri  i^-. 

"  A  thought  now  suddenly  came  across  my  mind,"  observes  Golow- 
nin.   "  I  imagined  that  by  means  of  signs  I  might  make  myself  under- 


of  their  hoases, 
fell  Bftcrifices  to 
as  the  Kuriles,  it 
indicate  himself 
I  he  supposed,  in 
were  entirely  un- 

jre,"  says  Golow- 
ions  of  the  great- 
iriles  of  this  part 
dividuals  of  both 
panese,  that  they 
rded  together,  re- 
iver they  had  oc- 
their  knees,  with 
Ar  beads  hanging 
nd.     Our  Kuriles 
After  the  latter 
ormed  us  that  the 
)nly  motive  which 
iduct  of  the  crews 
Whenever  they 
isually  said:  'The 
our  countrymen, 
re  possessed ;  they 
rice  and  sagi,  and 

(Vlexci,  who  spoke 
is  own  request,  as 
'  Ooroop,  which  he 
ion,  proceeded  to 
[)n  the  morning  of 
,  where  there  is  a 
jy  advanced,  guns 
ho  concluded  that 
;t  made  known  to 
od  in  nearer,  bow- 
ed with  screens  of 
or  palissades.  After 
pter,  Golownin  got 
I  shore.    They  bad 
J  again  began,  and 
i  and  rowed  quickly 

,"  observes  Golow- 
lake  myself  under- 


NBOOTIATION    WITH    CASKS. 


413 


Stood  by  the  Japanese,  For  this  purpose,  on  the  0th  of  July,  I  caused 
a  cask  to  be  sawed  in  two,  and  set  both  parts  afloat  in  the  water  in  front 
of  the  town.  In  the  inside  of  one  half  of  the  cask  were  placed  a  glass 
containing  fresh  water,  a  piece  of  wood,  and  a  handful  of  rice,  to  denote 
that  we  were  in  want  of  these  articles  ;  the  other  half  contained  a  few 
piastres,  a  piece  of  yellow  cloth,  and  some  crystal  beads  and  pearls, 
meaning  thereby  to  intimate  that  wo  would  give  them  cither  money  or 
other  articles  in  exchange  for  provisions.  Upon  this  half  of  the  cask  wo 
fixed  a  drawing  of  the  harbor,  the  fortress,  and  the  sloop ;  Avhich  was 
very  skillfully  executed  by  the  Midshipman  Moor.  In  this  drawing  tlio 
sloop's  guns  were  very  distinctly  marked,  but  fixed  in  the  ports  with 
their  tompions  in ;  but  the  guns  in  the  garrison  were  represented  as 
firing,  and  the  balls  flying  over  the  sloop.  By  this  means  I  wished,  if 
possible,  to  make  the  Japanese  sensible  of  their  perfidy.  No  sooner  hud 
we  set  the  cask  afloat  and  rowed  away,  than  the  Japanese  immediately 
seized  it,  and  carried  it  into  their  fortress.  On  the  following  day  we 
approached  within  gun-shot  of  the  castle,  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  an 
answer ;  having,  however,  previously  made  every  preparation  for  an  en- 
gagement ;  but  the  Japanese  did  not  seem  to  notice  us.  No  one  aj)peared 
near  the  works,  which  were  still  hung  round  with  cloth." 

Captain  Golownin  called  a  council  of  his  officers,  at  which  the  de- 
cision was,  that  they  should  not  heed  the  attack  of  the  Japanese,  nor 
take  any  further  measures  for  communication  with  them.  As,  however, 
both  water  and  provisions  were  needed,  a  boat  M-as  sent  to  the  mouth 
of  a  creek  for  a  supply  of  the  former,  while  Lieutenant  Rikord  crossed 
the  bay  in  another  boat,  to  a  fishing  village  which  they  had  observed. 
The  place  was  deserted,  but  Rikord  carried  off  some  wood,  rice,  and 
dried  fish,  and  left  behind  him  various  European  articles,  which  Alexei 
declared  to  be  far  more  valuable  than  what  he  carried  away.  In  the 
afternoon  curiosity  induced  Golownin  to  go  ashore  to  try  to  discover 
the  plans  of  the  Japanese,  and  he  was  highly  pleased  to  observe  that  all 
the  articles  which  Lieutenant  Rikord  had  left  were  removed.  "  On  the 
8th  of  July,"  he  continues,  "  we  observed  a  cask  floating  before  the 
town.  I  immediately  weighed  anchor  in  order  to  take  it  up.  We  found 
that  it  contained  a  little  box  wrapped  up  in  several  pieces  of  oil-cIoth. 
The  box  contained  three  papers ;  one  of  which  was  a  Japanese  loiter, 
which  we  could  not  read,  and  the  other  two  were  drawings.  Both 
these  sketches  represented  the  harbor,  the  castle,  our  sloop,  the  cask 
with  a  boat  rowing  toward  it,  and  the  rising  sun,  but  with  this  difference, 
that  in  one  the  guns  of  the  castle  were  firing,  while  in  the  other  the 
muzzles  of  the  cannon  were  turned  backward.  We  were  a  long  time 
occupied  in  considering  these  hieroglyphics,  and  each  explained  them 
after  his  own  way ;  but  this  will  not  be  thought  wonderful,  as  the  same 
thing  frequently  happens  among  better  scholars.  We  all,  however, 
agreed  that  the  Japanese  declined  holding  intercourse  with  us." 

The  next  day  a  boat  containing  several  Japanese  officers  and  a  Kurile 


414 


OOLOWNIN'S    CAPTIVITY    IN   JAPAN. 


interpreter,  rowed  toward  the  vessel.  Tlio  conforenoe  began  on  their 
side,  Willi  an  apology  for  having  fired  upon  the  KiisHiaiis  when  tliey  first 
attempted  to  land.  To  justify  this  proceeding,  they  declared  that  their 
distrust  had  been  excited  in  consequence  of  an  outrage  committed  upon 
them  some  years  before,  by  the  crews  of  two  Kussiun  vessels,  who  had 
at  first  landed  under  pretense  of  the  same  motives.  They,  Iiowever, 
perceived  the  difference  between  Golownin's  conduct  and  that  of  tKoir 
fonner  visitors ;  every  suspicion  had  now  vanished,  and  they  declared 
their  readiness  to  do  all  they  could  to  servo  liim.  On  the  10th  the 
requisite  amount  of  water  was  on  board,  and  Golownin  was  ready  to  sail, 
when  he  received  an  invitation  to  come  on  shore.  He  thought  it  his 
duty  to  comply,  in  order  to  acquaint  the  Japanese  that  the  outrage  of 
Cliwostoff  was  entirely  disowned  by  the  Russian  Government.  lie 
therefore  landed,  accompanied  only  by  Alexei,  the  interpreter,  and  was 
met  by  an  officer  with  whom  he  conversed  for  some  time.  This  person 
promised  to  furnish  the  vessel  with  more  provisions,  but  wished  Golow- 
nin first  to  consult  with  the  governor.  In  the  evening  a  largo  number 
of  fresh  fish  were  sent  on  board,  and  the  invitation  to  visit  the  governor 
renewed. 

Golownin  gives  the  following  account  of  what  happened  on  this  visit : 
"Next  morning,  July  the  11th,  at  eight  o'clock,  I  landed  with  the 
above-named  officers,  the  Kurilo  Alexei,  and  four  seamen.  So  fully  was 
I  persuaded  that  wo  stood  on  a  friendly  footing  with  the  Japanese,  that 
I  had  not  ordered  the  men  to  arm  themselves.  Tlio  officers,  three  in 
number,  including  myself,  had  each  a  sword,  in  addition  to  M'hich  Mr. 
Chk'bnikoff  brought  with  him  a  pocket-pistol,  to  use  as  a  signal,  in  case 
of  fog.  On  entering  the  castle  gate,  I  was  astonished  at  the  number  of 
men  I  saw  assembled  there.  Of  soldiers  alone,  I  observed  from  three  to 
four  hundred,  armed  with  muskets,  bows  and  arrows,  and  spears,  sitting 
in  a  circle,  in  an  open  space  to  the  right  of  the  gate ;  on  the  left  a 
countless  multitude  of  Kuriles  surrounded  a  tent  of  striped  cotton  cloth, 
erected  about  thirty  paces  from  the  gate.  This  small,  insignificant  place, 
seemed  incapable  of  containing  so  many  men,  and  I  concluded  that  they 
nuist  have  beer,  collected  from  all  the  neighboring  garrisons  since  we 
appeared  in  the  harbor. 

"  While  the  conference  was  going  on,  Mr.  Moor  had  observed  that 
naked  sabers  had  been  distributed  among  the  soldiers  who  were  sitting 
in  the  open  space.  He  immediately  mentioned  this  to  me ;  but  I  sup- 
posed that  a  saber  or  two  might  have  been  accidentally  out  of  the 
sheaths  ;  and  I  asked  him  whether  he  had  not  made  a  mistake,  as  the 
Japanese  always  carry  swords,  and  could  at  present  have  no  reason  for 
drawing  them.  This  remark  appeared  to  satisfy  him ;  but  circumstances 
soon  occurred  which  roused  all  our  suspicion,  and  convinced  us  that  some 
mischief  was  intended  against  us.  The  lieutenant-governor  having  with- 
drawn for  a  short  time,  as  if  to  make  some  arrangement,  returned,  and 
whispered  to  the  governor,  who  immediately  rose  up  to  go  away.    We 


MM 


MP 


began  on  their 
s  when  they  first 
Glared  that  their 

committed  upon 
vessels,  who  had 

They,  however, 
md  that  of  their 
nd  they  declared 
On  the  10th  the 
was  ready  to  sail, 
[e  thought  it  his 
it  the  outrage  of 
tovcmmont.  He 
erprcter,  and  was 
irao.  This  person 
ut  wished  Golow- 
»■  a  largo  number  | 
visit  the  governor      | 

cncd  on  this  visit : 
[  landed  with  the 
aon.  So  fully  was 
the  Japanese,  that 
a  officers,  three  in 
ition  to  which  Mr. 
iS  a  signal,  in  case 
[  at  the  number  of 
srved  from  three  to 

and  spears,  sitting 
ate ;  on  the  left  a 
triped  cotton  cloth, 
,  insignificant  place, 
oncludcd  that  they 

garrisons  since  we 

had  observed  that 
rs  who  were  sitting 
to  me ;  but  I  sup- 
lentally  out  of  the 
e  a  mistake,  as  the 
have  no  reason  for 
I ;  but  circumstances 
ivinced  us  that  some 
jvemor  having  Avith- 
ment,  returned,  and 
pto  go  away.    We 


OOLOWNIN    MADE    PRI80NKB. 


416 


got  up  also  to  take  our  leave  ;  and  I  repeated  my  question  respecting 
the  price  of  provisions,  and  also  asked  whether  he  intended  to  sup|)ly  us 
with  any  ?  On  iieariiig  this  ho  sat  down,  invited  us  to  do  the  same, 
and,  though  it  was  early  in  the  day,  ordered  dinner  to  be  served  up. 

"We  accepted  his  invitation,  and  waited  with  impatience  to  see  what 
woiild  next  occur,  as  it  now  appeared  we  were  caught  in  a  snare  from 
which  it  would  be  difficult  to  escape.  But  the  kind  behavior  of  the 
Japanese,  and  their  assurances  that  we  had  nothing  to  fear,  again  tran- 
quillized us,  and  banished  any  suspicion  of  their  treachery.  Tliey  en- 
tertained us  with  rice,  iish  in  a  green  sauce,  and  other  savory  dishes,  the 
ingredients  composing  which  wo  did  not  know.  They  also  gave  us 
sagi.  After  we  had  dined,  the  governor  was  again  about  to  M'ithdraw. 
I  now  declared  that  we  could  wait  no  longer,  but  must  return  imme- 
diately on  board. 

"  The  governor,  who  had  luthorto  conversed  in  a  mild  and  gentle 
tone,  now  altered  his  manner.  lie  sjwke  loudly,  and  with  warmth ; 
frequently  mentioned  Resanoto  (llesanoff),  and  Nicola-Sandrejotsch 
(Nicolai  Alexandroivitsch,  meaning  Chwostoff,  the  Captain  of  the  (Com- 
pany's ship),  and  struck  liis  hand  several  times  on  his  saber.  In  this 
manner  he  made  a  long  speech,  of  which  the  terrified  Alexei  interpreted 
to  us  only  the  following  sentence : — '  The  governor  says  that  if  he  lets  a 
single  one  of  us  out  of  the  castle  his  own  bowels  will  be  ripped  up.'  This 
wns  brief  and  decisive  I  We  instantly  made  all  the  haste  we  could  to 
escape.  The  Japanese  did  not  venture  to  close  upon  us,  but  set  up  a 
loud  cry,  and  threw  oars  and  liir'jce  pieces  of  wood  at  us,  to  knock  tis 
down.  On  our  reaching  the  gate  they  fired  several  times  on  us,  but 
without  eflfect,  though  one  of  the  balls  whistled  past  the  head  of  Mr. 
Chlebnikoff.  We  now  found  that  they  had  succeeded  in  detaining  Mr. 
Moor,  the  seaman  Makaroff,  and  our  Kurilo  Alexei,  in  the  castle.  We 
ran,  however,  to  our  landing-place ;  but  on  arriving  there,  perceived 
with  dismay  that  the  tide  had  ebbed  above  five  fathoms,  and  left  the 
strand  quite  dry.  As  the  Japanese  saw  that  it  was  impossible  for  us  to 
get  the  boat  afloat,  and  had  previously  assured  themselves  that  it  con- 
tained no  arms,  they  gained  confidence,  advanced  upon  us  with  drawn 
sabers,  which  they  held  in  both  hands,  muskets  and  spears,  and  sur- 
rounded us.  I  cast  a  look  upon  the  boat,  and  said  to  myself:  'It  must 
be  so — our  last  refuge  is  lost — our  fate  is  inevitable !'  I  surrendered. 
The  Japanese  seized  me  by  the  arms,  and  conducted  me  to  the  castle, 
into  which  my  companions  were  also  conveyed. 

"  We  were  conducted  into  the  same  tent  in  which  we  had  hold  the 
conference,  but  neither  of  the  commanders  with  whom  we  liad  com- 
municated were  now  there.  The  first  thing  done  was  to  tie  our  hands 
behind  our  backs,  and  conduct  us  into  an  extensive  but  low  building, 
which  resembled  a  barrack,  and  which  was  situated  opposite  to  the  tent 
in  the  direction  of  the  shore.  Here  we  were  all,  except  Makaroff— whom 
we  had  not  seen  since  our  separation — placed  on  our  knees,  and  bound 


416 


OOLOWNIN'S    CAPTIVITY    IN    JAPAN. 


in  the  crudest  niannor,  with  cords  nl>out  tlic  thiciviicss  of  a  finger:  and 
08  tliotigli  tliis  were  not  enough,  another  binding  with  Hniuller  cords  fol- 
lowed, which  was  still  more  painful.  The  Japanese  are  exceedingly  ex- 
pert at  thiii  work ;  and  it  would  appear  that  they  conform  to  some  pre- 
cise regulation  in  binding  their  prisoners,  for  wo  were  all  tied  exactly  in 
thu  same  manner.  There  were  tho  same  number  of  knots  and  noo:  es, 
and  all  ut  ccptal  distances,  on  the  cords  with  which  each  of  us  was  bound. 
There  were  loops  round  our  breasts  and  necks;  our  elbowi  almost 
touched  each  other,  and  our  liunds  were  firmly  bound  together :  from 
these  fastenings  proceeded  a  long  cord,  the  end  of  which  was  held  by  a 
Japanese,  and  wliich  on  tho  slightest  attempt  to  escape  required  only  to 
be  drawn  to  make  the  elbows  come  in  cimtoct,  with  the  greatest  ])ain, 
and  to  tighten  the  noose  about  the  neck  to  such  a  degree  as  almost  to 
jH'oduce  strangulation.  Besides  all  this,  they  tied  our  legs  in  two  places, 
above  tho  knees  and  above  the  ankles :  they  then  passed  ropes  from  our 
necks  over  tho  cross-beams  of  the  building,  and  drew  them  bo  tight  that 
we  found  it  impossible  to  move.  Their  next  oiwration  was  searcliing 
our  pockets,  out  of  which  they  took  every  thing,  and  then  proceeded 
very  tranquilly  to  smoke  tobacco." 

After  a  delay  of  an  hour,  the  Japanese  removed  tho  cords  from  tho 
ankles  of  their  captives,  and  led  them  into  the  country.  On  ascending 
a  hill  they  beheld  the  Diana  under  sail.  This  sight  plunged  them  into 
despair,  and  they  gave  up  all  hope  of  ever  seeing  their  native  country 
again.  After  walking  some  distance,  they  heard  a  cannonade.  They 
could  easily  distinguish  the  firing  of  the  sloop  from  that  of  the  castle ; 
but  the  strong  garrison  of  the  Japanese,  and  the  thick  earthen  wall 
which  formed  their  fortification,  afforded  the  Russians  no  reason  to  ex- 
pect any  fortunate  result  from  the  contest. 

To  resume  Golownin's  narrative :  "  I  was  so  tightly  bound,  particularly 
about  the  neck,  that,  before  we  had  traveled  six  or  seven  versts,  I  could 
scarcely  breathe.  My  companions  told  me  that  my  face  was  swollen  and 
discolored.  I  was  almost  blind,  and  could  not  speak  without  the  great- 
est difficulty.  We  made  signs  to  the  Japanese,  and  requested  them, 
through  the  interpretation  of  Alexei,  to  loosen  the  cord  a  little,  but  the 
cannonade  so  frightened  them,  that  they  paid  no  attention  to  our  re- 
monstrances ;  they  only  urged  us  to  move  fSister,  and  kept  constantly 
looking  behind  them.  Life  now  appeared  a  heavy  burden  to  me,  and 
I  resolvei^,  in  case  wo  should  pass  a  river,  to  make  a  sudden  spring  into 
the  water,  and  thus  terminate  a  painful  existence.  I  soon  saw,  however, 
that  it  would  not  be  easy  to  execute  this  purpose,  as  the  Japanese  al- 
ways held  us  fast  by  the  arms  when  we  had  occasion  to  cross  even  a 
little  brook.  I  fell  at  length  senseless  on  the  groimd ;  when  I  recov- 
ered, I  found  some  persons  sprinkling  me  with  water,  and  the  blood 
flowing  from  my  mouth  and  nose.  My  companions.  Moor  and '  Chlubni- 
koff,  were  in  deep  distress,  and  imploring  some  persons  to  loosen  the 
oords  with  which  I  was  bound.    They  at  last,  with  the  greatest  difii- 


■HM 


iiMil 


jf  ft  finger:  nnil 
miuller  conls  fol- 
I  exceedingly  cx- 
rni  to  some  prc- 
,11  tied  exactly  in 
lots  and  nooieu, 
of  U8  was  bound. 
ir  elbowfi  almost 
I  together:  from 
L!h  was  held  by  a 
required  only  to 
Lhe  greatest  i)ain, 
gree  as  almost  td 
['gs  in  two  places, 
id  ropes  from  our 
hem  so  tight  that 
ion  was  searching 
i  then  proceeded 

he  cords  from  the 
•y.     On  ascending 
plunged  them  into 
eir  native  country 
cannonade.     They 
that  of  the  castle ; 
hick  earthen  wall 
US  no  reason  to  ex- 
bound,  particularly 
vcn  versts,  I  could 
tse  was  swollen  and 
without  the  great- 
d  requested  them, 
»rd  a  little,  but  the 
attention  to  our  re- 
nd kept  constantly 

burden  to  me,  and 
sudden  spring  into 
soon  saw,  however, 
,  as  the  Japanese  al- 
iion  to  cross  even  a 
nid;  when  I  recov- 
iter,  and  the  blood 

Moor  and '  Chlebni- 
raons  to  loosen  the 
th  the  greatest  diffi- 


matMi  jriiri  mr  ■  nmmmmiim>»>itmlmmmtmmim 


I 


t 


IMl 


WM 


'Ci;, 


JvM 


■T Yi 


TREATMENT   OP   THE    CAPTIVES. 


417 


culty,  prevailed  on  them  to  comply.     I  then  found  myself  much  eased 
I     and  was  soon  able  to  make  an  effort  to  proceed  ^"  i-asea, 

,  "After  a  journey  of  about  ten  versts,  we  arrived  at  a  small  villa-e 

situated  on  the  traits  which  divide  the  island  of  Kunashier  from  M^tl' 
ma.     We  were  conducted  into  a  house,  where  boiled  rice  was  oZed 
us,  but  we  felt  no  desire  to  partake  of  food  of  any  kind.     On  our  de 
^     chnmg  to  cat,  we  were  taken  into  another  apartment,  in  which  we  wore 
laid  down  close  to  the  walls,  so  as  not  to  touch  each  other.    The  ropes 

wall  for  that  purpose.  Our  boots  were  puUed  off,  and  our  legs  tied  as 
before  m  two  places:  having  secured  us  in  this  way,  our  guards  sat 
down  m  the  middle  of  the  room  round  a  chafing-dish,  L  drafk  tea  a  fd 
smoked.  Any  man  might  have  slept  tranquilly  beside  lions,  bound  as 
fa  t  as  we  were  Jbut  it  would  seem  that  our  guards  did  not  think  the-^ 
selves  secure.  The  cords  with  which  we  werl  tied  were  inspected  eve^ 
quarter  of  an  hour.  *   ^i^u  every 

„n/  ^*  ^^A  f^L''^'''  of  twilight,  our  guards  began  to  bestir  themselves, 
and  seemed  to  be  preparing  for  a  journey.  About  midnight,  a  broad 
plank  was  brought  m,  to  the  four  comers  of  which  ropes  wefe  attached 

of  whTw  ^'T  r"'^  "'  '\^  *^P'  '""^  «^"°^  ^'•^^^  *  P«I«'  the  ends 
nLdJf  T  f  °^  "'"''  shoulders;  and  thus  the  whole  was  sus- 

pended. I  was  placed  upon  this  plank,  and  immediately  borne  away 
We  now  concluded  that  we  were  to  be  separated  forever,  and  tharwci 
could  entertam  no  hope  of  seeing  each  other  again.  Our  fareweU  w^ 
like  the  partmg  of  friends  at  the  hour  of  death 

"The  saUors  wept  aloud  as  they  bade  me  adieu,  and  my  heart  was 
wrung  on  leaving  them.  I  was  conveyed  to  the  sea-side,  and  placed  ta 
a  large  boat,  with  a  mat  beneath  me.  In  a  few  moments,  Mr.  Moor  was 
likewise  brought  to  the  shore  in  the  same  way  as  I  had  been,  and  w^ 
placed  m  the  boat  beside  me.  This  was  indeed  an  unexpected  halT 
ness.  I  was  so  overjoyed,  that  for  a  few  moments  I  experienced  a  dim- 
mution  of  my  tonnent.  Moor  was  soon  foHowed  by  Mr.  Chlebnikoff, 
and  the  sailors  Simanoff  and  WassUjeff ;  the  rest  were  placed  in  another 
Doat.  A  soldier  under  arms  was  stationed  between  each  of  us  We 
were  then  covered  over  with  mats,  and  the  boats  were  rowed  from  the 

At  break  of  day,  on  the  12th  of  July,  the  captives  were  landed  near 
8  little  village,  on  the  coast  of  the  island  of  Matsmai  or  Jesso.  Here 
they  were  removed  mto  other  boats,  which  were  drawn  with  ropes  alonir 
the  shore  ma  south-easterly  direction.  In  this  way  they  were  dragged 
the  whole  of  that  day  and  the  following  night.  There  was  no  haltSg, 
except  at  certain  fixed  places,  where  the  men,  who  were  employed  hi 
the  dragging,  and  who  came  from  the  neighboring  villages,  wore  re- 
lieved. At  one  of  the  villages,  a  venerable,  gray-haired  man,  begged 
permu  ^on  of  the  guards  to  furnish  the  Russians  with  breakfiist.  'Siis 
was  granted,  and  the  old  man  stood  near  them  during  the  repast,  to  see 
. 27 


T- 


418 


GOLOWNIN'S    CAPTIVITY 


that  they  wanted  nothing,  the  expression  of  his  --^^^^^^^ 

•  /i>;«  ,.hv  Thev  were  kept  bo  severely  bound  that  then  vnsts 
:^;:"?v  ed  w'ih  i  SuTsores,  and  one  of  the  seamen  was  seized  w.th 
ZJZXleoi^S-t  the  nose.  At  night  they  lay  n>  the  boats,  stUl 
bound  ad  were  frequently  wet  to  the  skin  by  showers  of  ran.. 

Ifter  fivl  days  of  this  pauiful  travel,  tLoy  were  put  on  shore,  taeir 
foet^nUed  and  the  cords  about  their  knees  loosened  so  t  -t  tlu,-  co^^^^ 
.valk     Their  iourney  thenceforth  was  entirely  by  land.       The  J  apanese 
o^tda  or  commander  of  the  district,"  says  Golownu,,  "look  a  con- 
sMe  tTme  to  determine  on  the  order  of  our  procession  ;  however  he 
a^tWh  deposed  of  us  in  the  follo^^nng  manner:  two  Japanese  from 
ttc  nethSng  village  proceeded  first,  walking  side  by  side  and  carry- 
W   tav  s  of  r!d  wood,^'ery  handsomely  carved :  their  busmess  was  to 
Sfecrour  course.    The'se  were  relieved,  on  entering  the  "-t  ^l.^^^^^^^ 
bv  two  new  guides,  carrying  staves  of  the  same  description     The  gmdes 
t'ee  folded  by  three  Lfiers.    Kext  came  my  turn  -th  -oM^^^^^^^^ 
one  side    and  on  the  other  an  attendant,  who,  with  a  twig,  kept  the 
g"„:ts  and  flies  from  fixing  upon  me.    ^^^f  ^  ^^  ^^^^^^^^^^^ 
hold  totrether  the  ends  of  the  ropes  with  which  I  was  bound.     We  yvero 
foUowedty"  party  of  Kuriles,  carrying  my  litter  -and  after  them  came 
Another  pa^desLd  to  relieve  the  others  when  faljguc^     Next  -- 
Mr.  Moor,  guarded  in  the  same  manner  as  I  was ;  »f  ^J^^'^J^;*^^^^^^^ 
likoif-  then  the  saUors,  one  following  another;  and  last  of  all  Alexei. 
The  whole  retinue  w..8  closed  by  three  soldiers,  and  a  number  of  Japan- 
TeVudKurle  servants,  carrying  provisions,  and  the  baggage  of  our  es- 
cort     The  party  must  have  amounted  to  between  one  hundred  and  fifty 
and  two  hu^dfed  men.    Each  individual  had  awooden  tablet  suspended 
fromhS  girdle,  on  which  was  an  inscription,  stating  with  which  of  us  he 
wao  stationed  and  what  were  the  duties  of  his  office. 

'XinrihTwholc  jouniey,  the  Japanese  uniformly  observed  the 
«ame  regSons.    At  daybreak  we  prepared  for  our  departure,  break- 
S  ri ten  set  out.  'our  conductors  frequently  stopped  in  villages 
to  rest,  or  to  drink  tea  and  smoke  tobacco.    At  noon  we  dmed     Hav- 
„g  rested  for  one  hour  after  dinner,  we  again  proceeded,  and  an  hour  or 
two  before  sunset  wo  halted  for  the  night,  usually  m  -^ "^gf  j;^;/^ 
with  a  small  garrison.    These  night-quarters,  when  we  first  entered,  were 
;  n  rThung  round  with  striped  cotton  cloth.    We  were  always  con- 
ducted to  a  neat  house,  and  placed  altogether  in  one  apartment,  where 
our  guards  never  failed  to  fLen  us  to  iron  hooks  which  were  fixed  into 

*^''^When  we  arrived  at  the  station  where  we  were  to  pass  the  night 
we  were  always  conducted  to  the  front  of  the  house  belonging  to  the 
person  possessing  the  highest  authority  in  the  place;  wo  were  there 
seated  on  bench^es  cover! d  with  mats,  and  he  came  out  to  mspect  us. 
We  were  then  taken  to  the  house  allotted  for  our  lodging ;  on  en  «nng 
Sch  our  boots  and  stockmgs  were  taken  off,  and  our  feet  bathed  with 


«JpBSSN^^^*^S^iSfrt.^  vts^iiii'itaJ^-^S^iS®^ 


Mtit^jfijii^SRMW^' 


tenanco  plainly 
hat  their  wrists 
ivas  seized  with 
1  the  boats,  still 
af  rahi. 

i  on  shore,  their 
that  they  could 
"  The  Japanese 
in,  "tookacon- 
an ;  however,  ho 

0  Japanese  from 
■  side,  and  carry- 
r  business  was  to 
:he  next  district, 
ion.  The  guides 
with  a  soldier  on 
a  twig,  kept  the 
a  conductor,  who 
•ound.    We  were 

1  after  them  camo 
;ucd.  Next  came 
er  him  Mr.  Chleb- 
last  of  all  Alexei. 
number  of  Japan- 
laggagc  of  our  es- 
hundred  and  fifty 
1  tablet  suspended 
ith  which  of  us  he 


rmly  observed  the 
departure,  break- 
stopped  in  villages 
n  we  dined.  Hav- 
ed,  and  an  hour  or 
a  village  furnished 
3  first  entered,  were 
e  were  always  con- 
)  apartment,  where 
lich  were  fixed  into 

e  to  pass  the  night, 
e  belonging  to  the 
CO ;  we  were  there 
e  out  to  inspect  us. 
dging;  on  entering 
•ur  feet  bathed  with 


JAPANESE   KINDNESS  AND   CURIOSITY. 


419 


warm  water,  in  which  there  was  a  solution  of  salt.  Wo  were  regularly 
provided  with  meals  three  times  a-day ;  viz.,  breakfast  in  the  morning 
before  we  set  out  on  our  journey,  dinner  about  noon,  and  supper  in  the 
evening,  in  our  night-quarters.  There  was,  however,  little  variety  in  our 
diet ;  it  consisted  usually  of  boiled  rice  instead  of  bread,  two  pieces  of 
pickled  radish  for  seasoning,  broth  made  of  radishes  or  various  wild  roots 
and  herbs,  a  kind  of  maccaroni,  and  a  piece  of  broiled  or  boiled  fish. 

"  In  every  village,  on  our  arrival  and  departure,  we  were  surrounded 
with  crowds  of  both  sexes,  young  and  old,  who  were  drawn  together  by 
curiosity  to  see  us ;  and  yet  on  these  occasions  wo  never  experienced  the 
slightest  insult  or  oifense.  All,  particularly  the  women,  contemplated 
us  with  an  air  of  pity  and  compassion.  If  wo  asked  for  drink  to  quench 
our  thirst,  they  were  emulous  to  supply  us.  Many  solicited  permission 
of  our  guards  to  entertain  us,  and  on  their  request  being  granted,  brought 
us  sagi,  comfits,  fruits,  or  other  delicacies.  On  one  occasion,  the  chief 
of  a  village  treated  ns  with  some  very  good  tea  with  sugar.  Tliey  often 
inquired  respecting  an  European  nation  called  Orando,  and  a  country  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Kabo.  "We  assured  them  that  we  knew 
of  no  such  people  or  countries  in  Europe ;  upon  which  they  expressed 
surprise,  and  testified  distrust  at  our  answer.  Sometime  after  we  learned 
that  the  Japanese  called  the  Dutch,  Orando,  and  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  Kabo." 

During  all  this  time  they  remained  bound,  until  their  flesh  became  so 
chafed  that  the  Japanese  guards  finally  called  in  a  physician  who  applied 
plasters  to  the  wounds.  They  refused  to  allow  them  liberty,  from  fear 
that  they  would  commit  suicide.  They  even  held  the  pipes  which  the 
prisoners  smoked,  lest  they  should  attempt  to  injure  themselves  with  the 
stems ;  but  afterward,  having  fitted  enormous  mouth-pieces  to  them,  as 
a  precautionary  measure,  allowed  the  Russians  to  take  them  in  their  own 
hands.  Captain  Golownin  and  the  officers  were  constantly  applied  to  by 
the  natives  to  write  some  lines  for  them  as  curious  souvenirs.  The  Ja- 
panese considered  a  specimen  of  Russian  writing  as  great  a  curiosity  as 
an  inscription  in  Japanese  would  be  looked  upon  in  Europe,  and  they 
showed  a  fan  upon  which  v>  ere  inscribed  four  lines  of  a  popular  Russian 
song,  signed  by  a  person  named  Babikoff,  who,  it  appeared,  had  visited 
Japan  along  with  Laxman.  Though  these  lines  must  have  been  written 
twenty  years  before,  yet  the  fan  was  as  clean  and  fresh  as  if  perfectly 
new.  The  owner  kept  it  wrapped  up  in  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  set  so 
much  value  upon  it,  that  he  would  scarcely  suffer  it  to  be  opened. 

After  a  journey  of  nearly  four  weeks,  the  prisoners  at  last,  on  the  7th 
of  August,  saw  from  an  eminence  the  city  and  harbor  of  Hakodadi* 

•  The  port  of  Hakodadi,  in  the  BtraitB  of  Sanfjar,  at  the  southern  extromity  of  the 
island  of  Jesao,  is  one  of  tho  ports  opened  to  the  vessels  of  the  United  States  by  the  treaty 
concluded  at  Yoko-hama  by  Commodore  Perry  in  1864.  The  harbor  is  safe  and  coramo- 
dioua,  and  has  already  become  a  favorite  place  of  resort  for  American  whalers,  for  the 
purpose  of  refitting  and  procuring  supplies.  Captain  Rolownin  spoils  tlie  name  *'  Chako- 
dade,"  wliich  is  probably  the  Russian  mode  of  representing  the  same  sounds.         ■  \'    ' 


420 


OOLOWNIN'S   CAPTIVITY 


IN   JAPAN. 


iVZu  — 

spread  out  Leforo  tl...    The  next  ^,  ji^S-t"^;^:; 
tL  for  their  formal  -^--^^^^^^^^^  As  the  proce. 

and  armed  themse  vcs  with  ««^t«  f  ^^^^  „f  «on9  came  out  to  Bee 
sion  approached  th^g'^^^^Xt  X-BTyBGolownin,  "  where  the 
them.  "We  at  length  ^r.^^'^^^^^  tWourLards  had  great  difficulty 
concourse  of  people  wa.,  bo  »»"™«"«^*^;'J^^^^^^^^  ?he  distance  of  half  a 
iu  clearing  a  passage  for  us.    Havmg  procee  ^^  ^^^  j.ft, 

verst  along  a  narrow  ^^-^^^^.^  Her^^^^^^  rising  ground,  we  first 
which  led  us  into  the  open  fi^^^^;- .  "f ^J ^f^ ^^  prison.  Thesight  filled 
beheld  the  building  that  was  destmed  to  ^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^^^^^^^^ 

us  with  horror     We  «^«--?,^f,^^;^^^^^^^^  Ahigh  wooden 

enabled  us  to  form  '^  "^^^f  ^'^Xana  well  provided  with  chevaux^- 
inclosure  or  fence  of  great  «/  ^"S'^^^"^"^^^^         wooden  fence  was  sur- 

^ze,  concealed  the  body  of  *^«X.tTower  which  on  this  occasion  was 
Lnded  by  an  earthen  waUBo^ew^^  ^^^  ^^^  ^^^.^ 

hung  with  Btnped  cloth.  ^^^^^  ^^^^^^hc  path  leading  to  our  prison, 
which  severdofficersweresea^^dA^ougtbe^    they  stood  at  the  dis- 

soldiers  were  stationed  m  ^"^^ "^^^^  ^  were  armed  in  various  ways: 
tance  of  two  fethoms  fr^™^-?^,;^:^^^^^  with  spears,  etc. 

some  with  muskets,  Bome  with  ^^y^^"^  '^"^^^^J  ^^laing.  On  arriving 
A  party  of  officers  were  s  ationed  m  ^^^^  ;\ ;*^^^^^^  ^  I,  ^f  our  escort 
at  L  gate.  w«  were  received  by  an  <>^^^l^^J^^^^,,^  j^^o  a  sort  of 
hadpreviouslybe^nhandea^^^^^^^ 

\  h:»%t-rs£cror^^^^^^^ 

i     *'*g®'-  .  „  «,.  lobbv  in  the  bnUding,  where  my  boots 

«I  was  led  into  a  passage  o^^)«^JJy  ^"  y"^^  bound  removed.    I  was 

were  drawn  off.  and  the  ^-^P  V^^^J^"'^ Xh  w^^  divided  from  the 
1     then  directed  to  enter  a  small  «P^^™  "*  J^^^^       ^,  i„  quest  of  Mr. 

i     passage  by  wooden  p^issades^  Jeat  w^  m7^™*y  to  find  that  I  could 
1     Moo^  and  Schkajeff ;  but  how  gr  at  was^mj    ^.^^y  ^^ 

j     neither  see  nor  hear  tnem.     x  ^  .      ,  ..     j  ^^^y  tije  door  of 

closed  the  door  of  my  ^f  rt'nen*  ^nd  q«;^^f  ^  j^„^^  The  thought 
which  they  likewise  closed  after  t^«™- J/^^  ^robtbly  forever,  com- 
of  being  separated  from  my  -mp-K,-  a^^^^  P-b  X  ^^^^^  ^^^^ 
plctely  overpowered  me,  and,  m  a  paroxy»ut  r 

upon  the  ground.  ♦„* „  «f  inaftnribilitv.  At  length,  raifi- 

«I  remained  for  some  tune  m  a  f  ^«  ^'^•""^tkoned  me  lo  ap- 
ing my  eyes,  I  observed  at  tbe  -n^^  LZxtlig  his  hand  through 
proachhim.    I ''«'"P^*«^, ^''^  ^.'f/,^J  i^tle  sweet  cakes;  at  the  same 


[9  made  prepara- 
on  new  clothes, 

As  the  proces- 
came  out  to  see 
nin,  "  where  the 
i  great  difficulty 
listanco  of  half  a 
reet  on  our  left, 
ground,  we  first 

The  sight  filled 
;  that  sufficiently 

A  high  wooden 
.  with  chevaux-de- 
en  fence  was  sur- 
this  occasion  was 
near  the  gate,  in 
ding  to  our  prison, 
f  stood  at  the  dis- 
l  in  various  ways : 
rs  with  spears,  etc. 
ling.  On  arriving 
a  list  of  our  escort 
cted  into  a  sort  of 
r-stirring  domicile 
■k  building,  resem- 
[■  strong  thick  spars 
a  exactly  Uke  bird- 

ig,  where  my  boots 
id  removed.  I  was 
B  divided  from  the 
L  me  in  quest  of  Mr. 
to  find  that  I  could 
,ut  saying  a  word, 
lobby,  the  door  of 
ilone.  The  thonght 
bably  forever,  com- 
pair,  I  threw  myself 

lity.  At  length,  rais- 
beckoned  me  to  ap- 
ing his  hand  through 
cakes;  at  the  same 
;ly,  as  a  punishment 
noment  I  loathed  the 
the  cakes,  lest  refusal 


A   JAPANESE    PRISON, 


421 


might  give  ofTpnse  to  my  kind  visitor.  His  conntonance  now  brightened 
up,  and  ho  lofl  the  window,  with  a  promise  to  bring  me  more  at  a  future 
tune.  I  thanked  him  as  well  as  I  was  able,  and  was  greatly  astonished 
that  this  man  (who  from  his  dress  apparently  belonged  to  the  very 
lowest  class)  should  be  so  far  actuated  by  benevolence,  as  to  hazartl 
his  own  safety  for  the  sake  of  convoying  comfort  to  an  unfortunate 
stranger. 

"My  guards  now  brought  me  some  food;  but  I  felt  not  the  least  in- 
clination to  partake  of  it,  and  sent  it  all  away.    In  this  stato  I  reinainod 
until  evening.    I  sometimes  threw  myself  on  the  floor,  or  upon  a  bench 
and  occasionally  walked  about  the  apartment,  meditating  on  the  means 
of  cflTectmg  my  escape.    I  attentively  inspected  the  construction  of  my 
cage.    It  was  six  feet  in  length  and  breadth,  and  about  eight  feet  in 
height.  It  Was  divided  from  the  lobby  by  wooden  palissades  of  tolerable 
thickness,  and  the  door  was  fastened  by  a  lock.    On  one  side,  new  the 
door,  was  a  small  recess  fitted  up  as  a  water-closet.    There  were  two 
windows,  both  secured  extemaUy  by  strong  wooden  gratings,  and  in  the 
inside  furnished  with  paper  screens,  which  I  could  open  and  shut  at 
pleasure.    One  window  faced  the  waU  of  a  building  about  two  feet  dis- 
tant from  that  in  which  I  was  confined,  and  the  other  looked  to  the 
southern  side  of  the  fence  which  surrounded  our  prison.    From  this 
window  I  had  a  view  of  the  neighboring  hills  and  fields,  part  of  the 
straits  of  Sangar,  and  the  opposite  coast.    In  the  interior  of  the  chamber 
stood  a  wooden  bench,  which,  however,  Avas  so  small,  that  I  could  not 
stretch  myself  upon  it ;  and  throe  or  four  mats  lay  in  one  corner  on  the 
floor.    The  place  contained  no  other  furniture." 

After  being  confined  for  a  day  or  two,  Golownin  was  allowed  to 
select  one  of  the  sailors  for  a  companion.    He  chose  Malcarofl",  who,  on 
being  conducted  to  him,  stated  that  the  other  prisoners  were  confined 
in  small  cages,  perfectly  dark,  and  with  such  low  entrances  that  they 
were  obliged  to  crawl  m  on  their  hands  and  knees.    Two  dpys  after- 
ward, they  were  all  taken  before  the  governor  of  the  city,  by  whom 
they  were  closely  questioned,  but  received  no  intimation  as  to  their 
future  fate.  They  were  then  conducted  back  again  to  their  cages,  where 
they  remamcd  eighteen  days  before  they  were  again  summoned.    Their 
condition  was  a  little  improved,  inasmuch  as  they  were  allowed  to  speak 
to  each  other,  ajpartition  between  the  cages  having  been  removed, 
Golownin  observes :  "  The  chief  trouble  we  experienced  from  both  officers 
and  soldiers,  who  did  duty  as  guards,  arose  from  their  requests  to  write 
on  their  fims  and  pieces  of  paper ;  but  as  they  always  solicited  the  favor 
with  great  courtesy,  and  invariably  returned  thanks  with  very  humble 
reverences,  we  never  refused.     Some,  however,  imposed  so  far  on  our 
complaisance  as  to  bring  us  ten  or  twenty  fans  at  a  time.    These  tedious 
labors  fell  chiefly  on  Messrs.  Moor  and  Chlebnikoff",  as  their  hand-writ- 
ing was  very  fine.    The  former  wrote  more  than  seventy  sheets  of  paper 
for  one  of  the  soldiers ;  and  from  their  unceasing  applications  we  at 


422 


ooLO'v. :: 


IN'S   CAPTIVITY    IN   JAPAN. 


leiifith  concluded  that  they  must  have  sold  these  nianuscnpts  as  articles 
wortliv  of  beiiiK  preserved  in  the  cabinets  of  the  curious.  This  task  was 
the  more  laborious,  as  the  officers  were  always  desired  to  give  a  transla- 
tion of  what  was  written.  When  we  translated  any  thing  ior  them,  they 
carried  it  to  Mr.  Chlebnikoff,  to  compare  his  translation  with  ours;  and 
if  he  wrote  any  thing,  they  brought  it  for  the  same  reason  to  us." 

On  the  25th  of  August  the  deputy-governor,  Otachi-Koeki,  came  to 

visit  them,  foUowed  by  a  numerous  retinue.     Mats  were  spread  m  front 

ofthe  cages,  and  Golownin  was  thmiderstruck  at  seeing  his  own  chest 

of  clothing,  the  portmanteaus  of  Moor  and  Chlebnikoft  and  the  bmidles 

ofthe  sailors,  deposited  thereupon.    His  first  thought  was  that  the 

sloop  had  been  wrecked,  but  the  Japanese  soon  mformed  him  that  the 

articles  had  been  sent  ashore  at  Kunashir.     ♦'  This  day,"  he  says,     was 

doubly  memorable  to  me:  first,  on  accomit  ofthe  great  surprise  and 

alarm  which  the  appearance  of  our  baggage  occasioned ;  and  secondly, 

because  the  want  of  paper  and  ink,  or  any  thing  by  which  I  could  make 

notes,  induced  me  to  fall  on  the  following  singular  method  of  keeping  a 

journal.    When  any  thing  happened  that  was  agreeable  to  lis,  I  tied  a 

knot  on  a  white  thread,  which  I  drew  out  of  the  fnll  of  my  shirt :  when 

any  unpleasant  event  occurred,  I  made  a  memorandum  of  it  by  tyuig  a 

knot  on  a  thread  of  black  silk,  taken  out  of  my  neck-handkerchief.  With 

regard  to  other  circumstances  which,  though  remarkable,  had  occasioned 

us  neither  joy  nor  sorrow,  I  recorded  them  «"/ ^^'^^^^  ^^  SJ^^"  ^f  4 

which  I  abstracted  from  the  Iming  of  my  uniform  coat.    Often  did  1 

count  over  these  knots,  and  recaU  to  my  mind  the  events  they  ser^-ed 

**  Four'^days  afterward  they  were  again  conducted  before  the  gover- 
nor, and  were  surprised  by  the  reception  of  a  letter  from  Lieutenant 
Rikord,  who  informed  them  that  he  intended  sailing  to  Okotsk,  and  r^ 
turning  the  next  summer  with  a  stronger  force.    The  Japanese  desured 
Golownin  to  translate  this  letter,  which  he  did  in  a  cautious  manner, 
softening  the  threatening  exprc--...  as  which  it  contained     After  they 
were  taken  back  to  their  cages,  they  noticed  that  the  officers  and  sol- 
diers  were  more  kind  and  friendly.    They  were  allowed  to  have  some 
articles  of  clothing  from  their  tvuuks,  and  were  furnished  with  a  tub  ol 
warm  water,  that  they  might  wash  themselves.   Golownm  thus  describes 
the  latter  proceeding:  "The  tub  was  extremely  large,  and  the  water 
was  heated  by  means  of  a  copper  pipe,  communicatmg  with  a  kmd  ol 
stove     I  washed  first,  and  the  rest  were  obliged  to  make  use  ot  the 
same  water.    This  was  not  a  Uttle  annoying.    We  looked  upon  such 
treatment  as  below  what  was  duo  even  to  common  crmnnals.    We  were, 
however,  soon  set  at  ease  on  this  particular ;  for,  to  our  great  astonish- 
ment,  after  we  had  all  finished  washing,  some  of  the  imperial  soldiers, 
by  whom  we  were  guarded,  very  contentedly  followed  our  example,  and 
washed  themselves  in  the  same  water.     These  soldiers,  as  I  have  betore 
observed,  are  held  in  the  utmost  respect  iu  Japan.    It  is,  theretore, 


■%-. .. 


;cript9  a8  articles 
(.   This  task  was 
to  give  a  transla- 
ig  for  them,  they 
1  with  ours;  and 
son  to  us." 
i-Koeki,  came  to 
re  spread  in  front 
ng  hia  own  chest 
;  and  the  bundles 
5ht  was  that  the 
mod  him  that  the 
y"  ho  says,  "  was 
reat  surprise  and 
ed ;  and  secondly, 
hich  I  could  make 
thod  of  keeping  a 
ible  to  us,  I  tied  a 
of  my  shirt:  when 
m  of  it  by  tymg  a 
landkerchief.  With 
ble,  had  occasioned 
iread  of  green  silk, 
coat.    Oilen  did  I 
events  they  8er\'ed 

,  before  the  gover- 
,er  from  Lieutenant 
;  to  Okotsk,  and  re- 
[e  Japanese  desired 
a  cautious  manner, 
tained.    After  they 
the  officers  and  sol- 
)wed  to  have  some 
lished  with  a  tub  of 
)wnin  thus  describes 
arge,  and  the  water 
iting  with  a  kind  of 
to  make  use  of  the 
e  looked  upon  such 
sriminals.   We  were, 
.  our  great  astonish- 
ic  imperial  soldiers, 
od  our  example,  and 
tors,  as  I  have  before 
■m.    It  is,  therefore, 


i 


REMOVAL    TO    MAT8MAI. 


428 


evident,  that  the  Japanese  entertain  no  disgust  or  horror  of  Christians ; 
and  do  not,  like  other  Asiatics,  regard  them  as  unclean. 

"  On  tlio  6tli  of  September,  we  were  conducted  to  the  governor  of 
Ilakodadi,  for  the  last  time.  We  sat  a  long  time  in  the  court-yard, 
drinking  tea  and  smoking  tobacco.  The  interpreter,  Kumaddschero, 
went  continually  backward  and  forward,  asking  us  Russian  words,  which 
he  wrote  down.  We  were  at  length  conducted  into  the  hall.  Here  one 
of  the  officers,  a  gray-haired  man,  apparently  about  seventy  years  of  ago, 
who  in  Laxman's  time  had  been  employed  in  compiling  a  Russian  dic- 
tionary, unrolled  a  large  sheet  of  paper,  filled  with  Japanese  characters, 
which  he  began  to  read  in  a  style  very  much  resembling  singing.  Wo 
were  totally  unable  to  comprehend  the  first  ten  or  twenty  words ;  but 
we  at  length  discovered  that  he  fancied  he  was  reading  Russian,  and 
from  some  of  the  words  we  conjectured  that  the  paper  contained  an  ac- 
count of  our  affiiir,  translated  into  Russian.  Wo  could  not  refrain  from 
laughing,  and  told  the  Japanese  that  we  understood  only  a  few  words 
here  and  there  :  upon  which  they  all  joined  in  the  laugh,  not  excepting 
the  translator,  who  laid  the  paper  aside.  The  governor  then  took  leave 
of  us,  and  we  left  the  castle." 

Toward  the  end  of  September  they  ascertained  from  the  soldiers 
that  they  were  to  be  taken  to  the  city  of  Matsmai,  at  the  western  ex- 
tremity of  the  Straits  of  Sangar.  About  the  same  time  Simanoff,  one 
of  the  sailors,  obtained  possession  of  a  large  knife,  which  Golownin  ad- 
vised him  to  preserve  very  carefully,  in  order  to  funiish  them  with  a 
means  of  escape,  if  an  opportunity  should  present  itself.  The  journey 
to  Matsmai  occupied  four  days,  and  on  the  afternoon  of  the  30th  of 
September,  *'  wo  halted,"  says  the  narrative,  "  in  a  village  about  three 
versts  distant  from  the  city,  Avhere  we  were  met  by  a  party  of  soldiers 
and  a  vast  crowd  of  people.  We  remained  there  about  half  an  hour, 
during  which  time  our  conductors  put  on  their  best  clothes,  and  we 
then  entered  the  city  with  the  same  formalities  as  had  been  observed  at 
Hakodadi:  the  number  of  spectators  was,  however,  considerably 
greater,  owing  to  the  vast  population  of  the  city.  Having  proceeded 
through  the  town,  to  the  distance  of  about  four  or  five  versts  along  the 
shore,  we  entered  a  largo  open  space,  crowded  with  men,  who  stood 
behind  ropes,  which  had  been  fixed  for  the  accommodation  of  the  pro- 
cession. Thence  we  ascended  a  tolerably  high  hill,  passed  along  the 
rampart  which  encompassed  the  castle,  and  entered  a  court-yard,  sur- 
3-ounded  by  a  high  wooden  fence,  entirely  new.  Here  we  met  a  detach- 
ment of  soldiers  in  their  military  uniforms.  From  this  court-yard  a  little 
door  led  through  another  fence,  higher  than  the  preceding  one.  We 
now  entered  a  dark  edifice  like  a  barn.  Mr.  Moor,  Mr.  Chlebnikoffj 
and  myself,  were  shut  up  together  in  a  cage ;  the  sailors  and  Alexei  were 
confined  in  another. 

"  The  wliole  structure  must  have  occasioned  the  Japanese  govern- 
ment no  inconsiderable  cost.     Wo  could  rot  believe  that  so  much  labor 


424 


OOLOWNIN'S    CAPTIVITY    IN    JAPAN. 


and  expense  would  have  been  incurred  l»ad  it  been  intended  to  flct  us 
Boon  at  liberty.  The  strength  and  the  plan  of  this  prison  appeared  to 
denote  that  it  was  to  be  our  dwelling-place  during  tho  remainder  of  our 
existence.  This  idea  distressed  us  not  a  little.  We  sat  long  in  j.rofound 
silence,  gazing  at  each  other,  and  giving  ourselves  up  for  lost.  A  serv- 
ant at  length  brought  in  our  supper,  which  consisted  of  boiled  rue,  a 
piece  of  fish,  and  a  few  beans  with  syrup." 

Two  days  aaerward  they  were  taken  before  the  bunyo,  or  governor, 
who  interrogated  them  for  some  time  concerning  their  names,  rank, 
liimilies,  and  relations.  After  they  had  retired,  he  announced  his  in- 
tention of  presenting  theiu  with  dresses,  which  were  afterward  made  by 
a  Japanese  taUor.  Their  food  was  also  better  than  it  had  been  in  Ila- 
kodadi.  Accordmg  to  the  Japanese  custom,  stewed  rice  and  pickled 
radishes  served  them  instead  of  bread  and  seasoning.  They  were  be- 
sides frequently  furnished  with  good  fresh  and  salt  fish,  boiled  or  fried; 
soups,  in  which  there  were  various  wUd  herbs  or  maccaroni ;  and  some- 
times there  WiW  prepared  for  them  a  kind  of  Russian  soup  or  sauce, 
made  with  white  fish  and  muscle  broth.  The  fish  were  fried  m  od  of 
poppies,  and  were  seasoned  with  grated  radish  and  soy. 

For  upward  of  a  month  after  their  arrival  they  were  taken  before  the 
bunyo  every  day,  regularly,  and  questioned  for  many  hours  in  succession. 
Captain  Golownin's  account  of  this  propensity  of  the  Japanese  is  very 
curious.     "The  number  of  questions  which  the  bunyo  asked,"  ho  says, 
"  was  incalculable.    If  he  put  one  interrogatory  concerning  any  circum- 
stances connected  with  our  case,  he  asked  fifty  which  were  unimportant, 
and  many  which  were  ludicrous.    Tliis  so  puzzled  and  tormented  us, 
that  wo  sometimes  made  very  irritable  replies.    On  one  occasion,  we 
stated  plainly,  that  we  had  rather  they  would  put  an  end  to  our  exist- 
ence at  once  than  torture  us  in  the  way  they  did.    When  we  were  ca^ 
turcd,  I  had  about  mo  ten  or  twelve  keys  belonging  to  my  desk  and 
drawers  and  to  boxes  containing  tho  astronomical  instruments  used  on 
board  the  ship.    I'ho  bunyo  Avished  to  be  informed  of  the  contents  of 
every  drawer  and  every  box.    When  I  pointed  to  my  shirt,  and  told 
him  that  my  drawers  contained  such  things  as  those,  he  asked  me  how 
many  I  had.    I  repUed  that  I  did  not  know ;  and  that  it  was  my  serv- 
ant's business  to  keep  that  reckoning.    Upon  this  he  immediately  in- 
quired  how  many  servants  I  had,  and  what  were  their  names  and  ages. 
I  lof  t  all  patience,  and  asked  why  I  was  teased  with  such  questions,  and 
what  use  there  could  be  in  answering  them  since  my  property  was  not 
with  me.    The  governor  then,  with  great  mildness,  observed  that  he 
hoped  we  were  not  oflfended  by  his  curiosity ;  that  he  did  not  intend  to 
force  any  answers  from  us,  but  merely  questioned  us  like  a  friend. 

"  To  enable  the  reader  to  form  some  notion  of  the  questions  which 
the  Japanese  put  to  us,  and  the  trouble  it  cost  us  to  explain  the  various 
mutteva  which  excited  their  curiosity,  I  may  hercsubjoin  a  few  of  their 
interrogatories,  scarcely,  however,  tho  hundredth  part  of  the  frivolous 


irr  till  I  u 


I 


N. 

cntled  to  set  »i9 
son  appeared  to  ' 
emaimlcr  of  our 
ong  in  i)rofound 
,r  lost.  A  Herv- 
jf  boiled  rije,  a 

yo,  or  governor, 
cir  names,  rank, 
inounced  his  m- 
Lerward  made  by 
had  been  in  Ila- 
rico  and  pickled 
They  were  be- 
I,  boiled  or  fried ; 
laroni;  andsorae- 
an  floup  or  sauce, 
ro  fried  in  oil  of 

u  taken  before  the     , 

ours  in  succession.     . 

Japanese  is  very     j 

0  asked,"  he  says,  i 
3ming  any  circum-  ] 
[were  unhnportant,  j 
tnd  tormented  ns,     : 

1  one  occ4imon,  we 
t  end  to  our  cxist- 
7hcn  we  were  cap- 

g  to  my  desk  and     I 
Btruments  used  on 
of  the  contents  of 
tny  shirt,  and  told 
,  he  asked  me  how 
lat  it  was  my  serv- 
le  immediately  in- 
r  names  and  ages, 
such  questions,  and 
r  property  was  not 
,  observed  that  he 
e  did  not  intend  to 
like  a  friend, 
he  questions  which 
explain  the  various 
lyoin  a  few  of  their 
Lrt  of  the  frivolous 


THE    UARTYRDOU   OP   QUKSTIONS. 


425 


inquiries  which  tlicy  were  accustomed  to  make  in  the  course  of  one  day. 
It  must,  moreover,  be  considered  that  wo  had  to  make  ourselves  tmder- 
gtood  to  them  by  means  of  tljc  halt-wild  Kurile,  wiio  knew  scarcely  any 
thing  of  the  subjects  on  which  M'o  conversed,  and  who  was  acipiainted 
with  no  words  in  the  Kurilo  language  to  express  many  of  the  terms 
which  wo  made  use  of.  The  Japanese  interrogated  us  without  any  kind 
of  regularity,  and  often  jumped  from  one  subject  to  another.  The  fol- 
lowing is  a  specimen  of  one  of  our  examinations : 

**  What  kind  of  dress  does  the  Emperor  of  Russia  wear — what  does 
ho  wear  on  his  head — what  kind  of  birds  arc  found  in  the  neighborhood 
of  St.  Petersburg — how  many  times  do  the  Russians  go  to  church  in 
one  day — what  would  bo  the  price  ui  Russia  of  the  clothes  wo  were  then 
wearing — how  many  pijces  of  cannon  are  planted  round  the  im|ierial 
palace — what  wool  is  made  uso  of  in  Europe  for  manufacturing  cloth — 
what  quadrupeds,  birds,  and  fish  are  eaten  in  Russia — in  what  manner 
do  the  Russians  cat — what  sort  of  dresses  do  the  ladies  wear — what  kind 
of  horse  does  the  Emperor  usually  ride — who  accompanies  him  when  he 
goes  abroad — are  the  Russians  partial  to  the  Dutch — how  many  foreign- 
ers are  there  in  Russia — what  are  the  chief  articles  of  tra<Ie  in  St. 
Petersburg — what  are  the  dimensions  in  length,  breadth,  and  height, 
of  the  imperial  palace — how  many  windows  does  it  contain — how  many 
festivals  do  the  Russians  observe  in  the  course  of  the  year — do  the  Rus- 
sians wear  silk  clothes — at  what  time  of  life  do  the  Russian  women  begin 
and  ceaae  to  bear  children  ?  Tlioy  besides  inquired  the  names  of  the 
Emperor,  and  of  all  the  branches  of  the  imperial  family;  the  names  of 
the  governors-general  of  Siberia  and  Irkutzk,  and  of  the  commandants 
of  Okotsk,  Kamtchatka,  etc. 

"  But  they  vexed  us  most  of  all  by  their  inquiries  respecting  bar- 
racks. I  have  already  observed  that  in  Hakodadi  they  insisted  on  know- 
ing how  many  men  were  under  our  command,  according  to  our  rank, 
when  we  were  ashore.  This  question  was  again  repeated,  together  with 
a  request  to  know  whore  the  sailors  lived  in  St.  Petersburg.  In  bar- 
racks, wo  replied.  They  then  requested  Mr.  Moor  to  sketch,  from  the 
best  of  his  recollection,  a  plan  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  to  point  out  in 
what  part  of  the  town  the  sailors'  barracks  were.  This  demand  was  no 
sooner  complied  with,  than  they  made  inquiries  respecting  the  length, 
breadth  and  height  of  the  barracks ;  the  number  of  their  gates,  windows, 
.-ad  doors;  into  how  many  stories  they  were  divided ;  in  what  part  of 
the  building  the  sailors  lived ;  how  they  employed  their  time ;  how  many 
men  were  employed  to  guard  the  barracks,  etc. 

"  But  this  was  not  all :  they  questioned  us  about  the  military  bar- 
racks ;  asked  how  many  buildings  of  that  kind  there  wore  in  St.  Peters- 
burg, in  what  part  of  the  town  they  were  situated,  and  what  number  of 
men  they  contained.  We  thought  it  best  to  plead  ignorance  of  most  of 
these  matters ;  but  this  did  not  exempt  us  from  the  continuance  of  these 
interrogatories.    We  were  asked  in  what  part  of  the  city  our  dwellings 


420  OOLOWNIN'S   CAPTIVITY   IN   JAPAN. 

were  sit.mteil  how  far  they  wore  from  the  palace,  and  rcciuested  to  point 
;rtl"  "^     n  the  Hkotch  which  Mr.  Moor  had  drawn.     At  length  they 
w   hed  ti  know  how  large  our  houses  were,  and  how  tnany  B'^rvants  we 
kept     I  frequently  thought  that  the  Japanese  took  a  pleasure  thus  to 
tc^Lnt  us ;  Vor  to  reply  to  aU  the  questions  which  tho.r  -sat^t>  e  c^^^^^^ 
osity  induced  them  to  put  to  us,  was  a  posiUve  martyrdom     Wo  s.mo- 
Umes  absolutely  refused  to  answer  them,  and  told  them  they  might  if 
t  rpCed,  put  us  to  death.    Tlie  bunyo  would  then  endeavor  to  soothe 
by  expressions  of  regard,  and  by  making  inquiries  respectmg  matters 
relative  to  our  imprisonment,  but  ho  would  soon  resume  las  trifling.  Wo 
avoided  by  every  possible  maneuver  giving  any  opportunity  fornm^ocs. 
sary  quesUons;  wo  returned  short  replies,  and  sometimes  only  half  an 
answer.     But  every  word  brought  with  it  a  tram  of  interrogatories.' 

After  the  prisoners  had  been  driven  to  desperation  by  this  contmued 
questioning,  and  refused  to  gratify  any  longer  the  curiosity  of  the  Japn- 
L,  the  latter  asked  them  to  write  out  an  account  of  what  had  happened 
to  ihcm  since  they  left  Russia.    In  doing  this  they  took  occasion  ^^/J 
late  minutely  the  occurences  at  the  island  of  Kunash.r.    A  great  deal  of 
time  was  consumed  in  translating  this  document  into  JaP'^?««' «"\*^« 
work  was  not  accomplished  until  the  middle  of  November,  with  he  help 
of  the  interpreters,  Alexei  and  Kumaddschero     They  then  sent  it  to  the 
bunyo,  accompanied  by  a  petition,  in  which  they  requested  that  the  Ja- 
panese  government  would  set  them  at  liberty,  and  send  them  back  to 
Russia.    Alexei  was  honest  enough  to  confirm  the  truth  of  every  thing 
which  they  stated,  contrary  to  the  declaration  of  some  othjr  Kuril^ 
whom  the  Japanese  had  seized,  and  his  testimony  was  not  without  its 

""*  A*  few  days  afterward,  they  were  summoned  before  the  bunyo,  who 
addressed  them  in  a  speech  of  considerable  length,  which  was  thus  trans- 
lated  to  Golownm:  "The  Japanese  at  first  supposed  wo  intended  to 
plunder  and  burn  their  villages.    For  this  reason  they  had  enticed  us 
Lo  their  garrison,  and  had  detained  us  by  force,  with  the  viow  of  ascer- 
tainingwhat  had  induced  the  Russians  to  commence  hostilities  as  the 
Japanese  had  uniformly  entertained  Mendly  dispositions  toward  them. 
The  bunyo,  however,  gave  credit  to  our  explanationof  the  affair,  and  re- 
garded us  as  innocent :  he  had  accordingly  given  orders  for  removing 
the  ropes  with  which  we  were  bomid,  and  would  do  all  that  lay  m  his 
power  to  better  our  condition.    If  it  depended  on  him  to  grant  us  our 
freedom,  and  send  us  back  to  Russia,  he  would  do  so  without  hesitation ; 
but  we  must  be  informed  that  the  bunyo  of  Matsmai  was  not  the  chief 
individual  of  the  state,  but  that  Japan  was  ruled  by  an  emperor  and  a 
superior  government,  whose  commands  he  was  bound  to  obey  m  aU  cases 
of  importance,  and  without  whose  consent  he  could  not  grant  us  our  free- 
dom.   On  his  part,  however,  he  would  use  all  his  influence  with  the  gov- 
ernment  in  our  favor,  and  to  facUitato  our  return  to  Russia.    With  this 
view  he  had  sent  one  of  the  principal  officers  of  Matsraai  to  leddo,  the 


N. 

jucstecl  to  point 
At  length  they 
vny  servants  wo 
»lea8ure  thus  to 
•  insutiablo  curi- 
ora.  Wo  H  Jino- 
n.  they  might,  if 
(loavor  to  soothe 
specting  matters 
,  his  trifling.  Wo 
inity  for  unneces- 
imes  only  half  an 
errogatories." 
by  this  eontinued 
sity  of  the  Japm- 
liat  had  happened 
ok  occasion  to  re- 
A  great  deal  of 
Japanese,  and  tho 
iber,  with  the  help 
then  sent  it  to  tho 
cstcd  that  the  Ja- 
lend  them  back  to 
uth  of  every  thing 
pine  other  Kuriles 
ms  not  without  its 

)ro  the  bunyo,  who 
lich  was  thus  trans- 
od  wo  intended  to 
,hey  had  enticed  us 
h  the  view  of  ascer- 
;e  hostilities,  as  tho 
tions  toward  them, 
ofthc  affair,  and  re- 
■ders  for  removing 
a  all  that  lay  in  his 
lim  to  grant  us  our 
without  hesitation ; 
ai  was  not  the  chief 
y  an  emperor  and  a 
_to  obey  in  all  cases 
ot  grant  us  our  free- 
luence  with  the  gov- 
,  Russia.    With  this 
tsmai  to  Yeddo,  tho 


HOPES    OF    LIBRUATION, 


427 


capital,  to  endeavor  to  bring  our  afl'uir  to  the  wlHhed-fur  ish(u<.  Tii  tho 
mean  while  he  entreated  ua  not  to  give  way  to  despair,  but  to  ofUir  up 
prayers  to  Heaven,*  and  patiently  to  await  the  decision  of  the  emperor 
of  Japan.  When  Alexei  liad  finished  Iuh  explanation,  and  the  Japanese 
perceived  that  wo  understood  him,  our  ropes  were  inintediatcly  talvin 
off,  and  they  all  sincerely  congratulated  us.  Two  of  the  Japanese,  pres- 
ent at  this  scene,  were  so  moved  that  they  shed  tears. 

"  On  returning  to  our  prison,  we  found,  to  our  astonishment,  every 
thing  changed ;  and  we  could  scarcely  comprehend  how  so  complete  an 
alteration  could  have  been  effected  in  so  short  a  time.  Tlio  s))nrH  or 
railings  in  front  of  our  cages  were  removed ;  the  spaces  which  before 
served  us  for  passages  were  thrown  into  the  cages ;  the  floor  was  laid 
with  planks  in  tho  direction  of  its  length,  and  covered  with  new  mats, 
so  that  our  prison  was  converted  into  a  roomy  hall,  in  which  we  could 
walk  about  and  converse  at  our  case.  Near  the  flrcplace,  wooden  com- 
partments were  formed,  and  in  them  a  teacup  for  each  of  us  was  placed ; 
on  tho  hearth  stood  copper  kettles  with  water  for  tea,  and  a  pipe,  with 
a  little  pouch  of  tobacco,  was  laid  ready  for  each.  Instead  of  lamps  with 
flsh-oil,  wo  were  alloAvcd  candles.  Wo  wondered  not  a  little  at  this  un- 
expected and  rapid  metamorphosis. 

"  Wo  had  scarcely  recovered  from  our  astonishment,  when  several 
civil  functionaries,  accompanied  by  their  ciiildren,  came  to  visit  us. 
Thoy  offered  us  their  congratulations,  seated  themselves  by  the  fire,  and 
smoked  and  chatted  with  us.  In  a  word,  we  seemed  no  longer  prison- 
ers, but  guests.  Supper  was  not  handed  to  us  as  usual,  in  cups  or  basuis, 
but  was  served  up,  according  to  tho  Japanese  custom,  on  trays.  Tho 
vessels  used  were  entirely  new,  and  a  finer  sort  was  allotted  to  the  ofliccrs 
than  to  the  sailors.  The  aliments  were  better  than  before,  and  the  sagi 
was  no  longer  dealt  out  to  us  in  certain  portions,  in  cups,  but  was  placed 
before  us,  that  we  might  fill  it  out  as  we  pleased.  This  kind  treatment 
revived  the  hope  of  again  seeing  our  country,  and  we  passed  a  tranquil 
night,  for  the  first  time  since  our  imprisonment.  The  two  following 
days  were  spent  in  a  manner  equally  gratifying,  and  we  considered  our 
speedy  return  to  Russia  as  certain.  But  this  pleasant  state  of  things  was 
not  of  long  duration.  New  occurrences  induced  us  to  doubt  the  sin- 
cerity of  the  Japanese.  We  soon  had  to  revert  to  our  old  meals,  and 
nothing  remained  except  tho  new  utensils." 

Matters  remained  in  this  condition  during  the  whole  winter.  The 
captives  wore  sometimes  treated  kindly,  and  consoled  with  tho  hope  of 
a  speedy  release,  while  at  other  times  the  aspect  of  the  Japanese  was 
unfriendly  and  threatening.    They  finally  became  weary  of  this  fluctuat- 

♦  Whenever  ho  said  any  thing  to  conaole  us,  he  recommended  us  to  rely  on  God,  a 
circumstance  with  wliich  wo  were  particularly  pleased.  It  was  satisfactory  to  reflect^ 
that  the  people  into  whoso  power  fate  had  consif^cd  ua,  entertained  a  just  idea  of  tho 
Supreme  Being,  and  placed  faith  in  tho  Almighty  Ruler  of  nations,  before  whom  all  must 
sooner  or  later  render  an  account  of  their  actions. — Golownin. 


t 


100 


mmm 


'mmm_      _     ii|,!ll    '    IJ^'BgffgC^T^g^ 


428  OOLOWNIN'S    CAPTIVITY    IN    JAPAN. 

i„g,  uiuMTtniu  Htat.sand  .lotcrrnino.l  to  n.uko  tho  att.n.i.t  to  o^capo 
Tl.cv  wore  partly  I0.I  to  this  conclusion,  by  the  conviction  that  the  .In- 
panose  inten.kHl  to  retain  thorn  as  teachers,  in  onU-r  to  prat,  y  the^ 
l,ou..lless  curiosity.     A  new  intcn,rctor,  nan.ed  Teskc,  was  H;^'t   '.   hc.„ 
from  the  capital,  to  learn  the  Uussian  la«Rua«o  ;  ho  wa«  f..lIo^^o<l  by  an 
astronomer,  who  wished  them  to  teach  Imn  how  to  make  observat.onB 
for  tho  latitude  and  longitude.     All  wore  at  firrt  agreed  uiK)n  tho  necos- 
sity  of  escaphig,  but  in  the  beginning  of  March  Mr.  Moor,  the  mulslnp- 
man,  nuddenly  declared  that  ho  would  have  notlnng  to  .lo  with  the  plot. 
From  that  moment  a  complete  chai.go  took  place  in  his  manner  and  be- 
havior    He  began  t.»  imitate  tho  customs  of  tho  Japanese ;  ho  wa«  .)b- 
8ec,ui.niH  toward  them  to  such  a  degree  that  their  laughter  was  excited 
mid  began  to  watch  his  fellow-captives,  evi.lently  with  tho  J^^'^g"  of 
giving  biformation  against  them.    Golownin  soon  bccanio  convinced  that 
it  would  bo  unsafe  to  trust  him;  ho  therefore  pretended  to  have  given 
up  the  idea  of  escaping,  while,  with  the  concurrence  of  all  tho  others, 
the  preparations  for  it  wore  secretly  going  on. 

On  the  1st  of  April  thoy  were  all  taken  out  of  the  cages  and  con- 
ducted  to  a  house  which  had  been  expressly  prepared  for  them        Our 
residence,"  says  Golownin,  "was  in  various  respects  changed  for  the 
bettor     We  could  at  least  enjoy  the  sight  of  tho  sky,  tho  stars,  and 
many  other  objects;  and  wo  could,  when  wo  chose,  walk  out  mto  the 
yard  and  enjoy  tho  fresh  air.    Wo  had  beforo  been  debarred  fronri  aU 
these  enjoyments.     Our  food  was  likewiso  considerably  better     But, 
nevertheless,  we  were  inconsolable  whenever  we  thought  ot  tho  last 
words  of  tho  bunyo.    Ho  desired  us  to  regard  tho  Japanese  as  our 
brethren  and  countrymen,  and  mentioned  not  a  word  about  Russia,  as 
he  had  been  beforo  accustomed  to  do.    Wo  could  construe  tins  in  no 
other  way  than  that  wo  must  make  up  our  minds  to  remam  m  Japan, 
and  banish  every  thought  of  Russia.     But  we  had  firmly  resolved  that 
such  should  not  bo  our  fate ;  and  had  even  bound  ourselves  by  an  oath, 
that  whatever  might  be  the  consequence,  wo  would  attempt  either  to 
liberate  ourselves  by  force  from  tho  power  of  the  Japanese,  or  to  escape 
secretly  during  the  night.    We  had  all,  with  the  exception  of  Mr. 
Moor,  formed  a  determination  to  perish  rather  than  remam  forever  m 

'  ''^""in  one  of  our  walks  in  the  outskirts  of  tho  city  we  found  a  piece  of 
steel  which  one  of  tho  sailors  picked  up,  under  pretense  of  drawing  up 
his  boot  and  slipped  it  into  his  pocket;  we  likewise  found  meansto 
provide  ourselves  with  some  flints,  unperceived  by  our  attendants.  The 
fragments  of  an  old  shirt,  which  we  threw  upon  the  fire  as  if  by  accident, 
served  us  for  tuidcr ;  we  besides  daily  increased  our  store  of  provisions, 
by  secreting  a  portion  of  our  allowances.  We  did  not  neglect  defensive 
precautions.  Having  had  the  good  fortune  to  find  among  the  grass  m 
our  vard  a  largo  chisel,  which  had  probably  been  left  by  tho  carpenters 
who'  repaired  our  house,  we  carefully  hid  it,  and  resolved,  on  the  first 


AN. 

ttftlipt    to    OHCftpO. 

iction  that  the  .lu- 
•r  to  gratify  their 
',  wftH  Hfnt  to  tht'in 
wiw  f(»nowt«(l  Ity  at» 
make  observations 
LiPil  ui)on  tho  nuccft- 
Moor,  tho  miilshii*- 
to  <lo  M-ith  the  plot, 
his  manner  and  bo- 
ipanesc  -,  l>o  was  ob- 
mgliter  was  excited, 
with  tho  design  of 
icanio  convinced  that 
ended  to  liavc  given 
CO  of  all  tho  others, 

f  the  cages  and  con- 
ed for  them.     "  Our 
•cts  changed  for  tho 
le  sky,  tho  stars,  and 
^e,  walk  ont  into  the 
L'en  debarred  from  all 
ilerably  better.     But, 
thought  of  tho  last 
tho  Japanese  as  our 
word  about  llussia,  as 
d  construe  this  in  no 
.s  to  remain  in  Japan, 
[d  firmly  resolved  that 
ourselves  by  an  oath, 
uld  attempt  cither  to 
Ijapanese,  or  to  escape 
[the  exception  of  Mr. 
than  remain  forever  in 


Ity  we  found  a  piece  of 
Iretense  of  drawing  up 
[cwise  found  means  to 
[y  our  attendants.    The 

le  fire  as  if  by  accident, 
^)tir  store  of  provisions, 
[d  not  neglect  defensive 

id  among  the  grass  in 
left  by  tho  carpenters 
resolved,  on  the  first 


B.SCAPK    OP    THK    CAPTIVK8. 


429 


favorable  opportunity,  to  fasten  it  to  n  long  pole,  so  that  it  niight  serve 
as  a  pike.  To  a  Nimiiar  purpose  we  destined  a  spaile,  wlii<rh  hud  also 
been  left  by  accident  hi  our  yard,  and  whieli  we  appro]>riated.  'Hm 
proverb,  th.it  necessity  is  tho  mother  of  invention,  wiis  in  our  ciise  fully 
verified,  for  Mr.  ChlebnikofT  actually  managed  to  make  a  (Munpass.  \Vo 
roiiuested  our  attendants  to  let  us  have  two  large  needles  for  mending 
our  clothes,  and  afterward  protended  that  we  ha<l  lost  th<'m.  The 
J.^ltanese  sometimes  fasten  together  the  beams  of  their  houses  witli  <'o|i- 
per ;  this  had  been  done  in  our  house,  altliough  tlui  copper  was  very 
rusty.  Mr.  Chlebnikoff  cleaned  a  piece  of  this  copper,  hi  the  middle  of 
which  ho  bored  a  hole,  so  that  a  needlo  might  be  placed  upon  it.  IJy 
frequently  rubbing  this  needle  on  a  stone  which  ho  selected  for  the  pur- 
pose, ho  succeeded  in  magnetising  it,  an<l  finally  gave  it  such  a  degreo 
of  polarity,  that  it  pointed  with  tolerable  accuracy  to  tho  north.  Tho 
case  was  composed  of  a  few  sheets  of  paper  pasted  together  with  rice." 

Their  plan  was  to  escape  by  night,  travel  northward  along  th.  hhore, 
and  take  possession,  at  some  of  the  fishing  villages,  of  a  boat  largo 
enough  to  convey  them  across  to  Tartary.  On  the  )iSd  of  April,  1812, 
they  were  conducted  to  tho  outskirts  of  tho  city  for  a  walk,  and  made 
use  of  tho  opportunity  to  ol>servo  tho  foot-paths  I««dit\g  to  the  hills.  On 
their  return  to  their  house  the  same  evening,  they  tlirew  themselves 
upon  their  beds,  as  if  much  fatigued.  "  During  tho  twilight,"  saj' ?  tho 
narrative,  *'  tho  sailors  entered  tho  kitchon,  and  carried  off  two  knives, 
without  being  perceived.  Alwut  half  an  hour  before  midnight,  Simanoff 
and  Schkajcff  stole  into  the  yard,  and  concealed  themselves  under  tho 
steps.  When  twelvo  o'clock  struck,  and  the  Sangar  soldiers  had  gone 
their  rounds,  they  began  to  make  a  hole  under  the  fence,  through  which 
wo  all  (Mr.  Moor  and  Alcxoi  excepted)  crept  one  after  another.  I  stum- 
bled in  going  out,  slipped  down,  and  struck  my  knee  against  a  stako 
which  was  sunk  in  the  ground  close  to  tho  gap.  Tho  blow  was  ex- 
tremely violent,  but  the  pain  soon  diminished.  We  found  ourselves  on 
a  very  narrow  path  between  tho  fenco  and  the  hollow,  and  with  great 
difficulty  wo  suooeeded  in  gaining  tho  high  road.  With  hasty  steps  wo 
then  passed  between  tho  trees,  crossed  the  mound  and  the  cemetery, 
and,  in  about  half  an  hour,  reached  the  foot  of  the  first  hill  which  wo  had 
to  ascend. 

"  Proceeding  in  our  har.ardous  enterprise,  we  began,  at  the  distance 
of  about  five  versts  from  tho  shore,  to  climb  tho  hills,  and  we  endeav- 
ored, wherever  it  \vta  possible,  to  direct  our  course  northward.  Tho 
stars  served  to  guide  us.  While  wo  were  ascending  the  first  hUl  I  felt 
a  violent  pain  in  my  knee,  which  in  a  short  time  swelled  prodigiously. 
When  we  proceeded  along  level  ground,  I  could,  with  the  assistance  of 
a  stick,  walk  without  much  difficulty ;  but  I  experienced  severe  pain 
either  in  ascending  or  descending,  as  I  was  then  obliged  to  tread  heavily 
with  the  leg  which  had  been  hurt.  Being  thus  unable  to  make  an  equal 
nsc  of  both  feet,  I  was  quickly  overcome  with  &tiguo.    My  companions 


. 


I 


! 


480 


GOLOWNIN'3   CAPTIVITY    IN   JAPAN. 


were,  therefore,  under  the  necessity  of  stopping  every  half  hoar,  to 
enable  me  to  recover  myself  and  case  my  knee  by  resting.  Our  object 
was  to  reach,  before  daybreak,  some  hills,  across  which  a  thick  forest 
extended,  so  as  to  conceal  ourselves  from  the  observation  of  the  enemy; 
for  we  had  now  reason  to  regard  the  Japanese  in  that  character.  Dur- 
ing our  walks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  this  forest  appeared  io  us  to 
be  at  no  very  considerable  distance,  but  we  soon  found  how  greatly  we 
had  mistaken  its  situation.  We  could  trace  no  footpath  leading  to  it, 
and  we  therefore  advanced  to  it  in  as  straight  a  direction  as  we  could. 
Owing  to  the  darkness  of  the  night,  we  could  see  no  further  than  a  few 
paces  around  us,  and  we  sometimes  unexpectedly  found  ourselves  at  the 
foot  of  a  steep  precipice,  which  it  was  impossible  to  climb.  We  had 
then  to  search  for  a  more  practicable  road  ;  which,  when  found,  we  con- 
tinued to  ascend  until  new  obstacles  presented  themselves." 

After  having  traveled  for  three  hours  in  this  manner,  they  reached 
the  top  of  the  ridge,  and  discovered  a  beaten  road,  leading  directly  to- 
ward the  forest,  where  they  might  walk  without  fear  of  being  tracked. 
They  had  almost  reached  the  forest,  where  they  would  have  been  toler- 
ably secure,  when  the  sailor  Wassiljeff,  happening  to  look  behind  him, 
exclaimed :  "  They  are  pursuing  us  on  horseback  with  lanterns !"  and 
immediately  descended  into  a  deep  hollow  on  one  side  of  the  road.  The 
others  followed  his  example,  but  by  the  time  they  had  reached  the  bot- 
tom of  the  hollow,  which  was  surrounded  with  precipices,  the  sun  had 
risen.  Perceiving  at  last  a  small  aperture  in  the  rock,  which  had  been 
hollowed  out  by  the  action  of  a  waterfall,  they  crept  into  it,  and  although 
the  place  was  not  large  enough  to  allow  them  to  sit  down,  they  remained 
there  until  sunset.  As  soon  as  the  stars  appeared  they  climbed  the  hill 
again,  and  proceeded  northward.  Captain  Golownin  suffered  so  much 
pain,  from  the  leg  which  had  been  injured,  that  ho  found  it  almost  im- 
possible to  advance,  and  requested  the  others  to  leave  him.  This  they 
refused  to  do,  and  the  sailors  took  turns  in  dragging  him  along. 

During  tho  whole  of  the  night  they  advjmced  northward  over  rugged 
hills,  suffering  greatly  from  tho  cold,  and  at  daybreak  halted  among 
some  bushes,  for  the  purpose  of  cooking  a  little  rice  which  they  had 
brought  with  them.  The  day  was  cold  and  stormy,  and  as  tho  mount- 
ains appeared  to  be  entirely  deserted,  they  determined  to  proceed.  The 
sailors  were  still  obliged  to  drag  Golownin,  whose  sufferings  were  so 
great  that  he  preferred  lying  down  on  the  snow,  and  sliding  down  the 
Bteep  sides  of  tho  hills.  On  this  day  he  had  a  fearful  adventure,  which 
he  thus  describes ;  "  Having  ascended  to  a  considerable  height,  we  sud- 
denly found  ourselves  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  rock,  which  we  could  not 
climb  without  tho  greatest  difficulty  and  danger.  I  had  nearly  reached 
the  top  of  the  rock,  when  I  found  myself  under  the  necessity  of  loosening 
my  hold  of  the  girdle  of  Makaroff,  who  otherwise,  overburdened  as  he 
wa.s,  would  not  have  been  able  to  have  gained  the  summit.  I  therefore 
placed  the  toes  of  my  sound  foot  firmly  against  a  stone,  and  throwing 


.»:    ri^ftWr-tit<Hiifr'rtii-/ii^.i 


ery  half  hour,  to 
iting.    Our  object 
ich  a  thick  forest 
tionofthe  enemy; 
,t  character.    Dur- 
iippeared  co  ua  to 
id  how  greatly  wo 
tpath  leading  to  it, 
ection  as  we  could, 
ftirther  than  a  few 
ind  ourselves  at  the 
to  cUmb.    We  had 
irhen  found,  we  con- 
ceives." 

anner,  they  reached 
,  lending  directly  te- 
ar of  being  tracked, 
uld  have  been  tolcr- 
to  look  behind  him, 
with  lanterns '."and 
ide  of  the  road.  The 
had  reached  the  bot- 
recipices,  the  sun  had 
ock,  which  had  been 
t  into  it,  and  although 
i  down,  they  remained 
they  climbed  the  hill 
nin  suflfcred  so  much 
0  found  it  almost  im- 
ieavehim.    This  they 

ig  him  along, 
orthward  over  rugged 

jrbreak  halted  among 

)  rice  which  they  had 

ly,  and  as  the  mount- 

lined  to  proceed.  The 

►se  sufferings  were  so 

,  and  sUding  down  the 

arful  adventure,  which 

lerable  height,  we  sud- 

k,  which  we  could  not 

I  had  neariy  reached 
c  necessity  of  loosening 
e,  overburdened  as  ho 
e  summit.    I  therefore 

a  Btouc,  and  throwing 


A    FEARFUL   ADVENTURE. 


481 


my  right  arm  roimd  a  young  tree,  which  was  so  much  bent  down  that 
it  inclined  almost  horizontally,  I  resolved  to  wait  until  Makaroff  should 
reach  the  top,  and  be  able  to  release  me  from  my  perilous  situation. 
But,  powerful  and  vigorous  as  Makaroff  was,  his  great  exertions  had  so 
overcome  him,  that  he  no  sooner  reached  the  summit,  than  he  fell  to  the 
ground  almost  in  a  lifeless  state.  At  this  moment,  the  stone  against 
which  I  rested  my  foot  detached  itself,  and  rolled  to  the  bottom  of  a 
deep  hollow  which  the  rock  overhung.  I  was  thus  left  hanging  by  one 
hand,  without  the  possibility  of  obtaining  any  other  support,  owing  to 
the  excessive  smoothness  of  the  rock. 

"  The  rest  of  the  sailors  were  at  no  great  distance,  but  fatigue  ren- 
dered them  unable  to  afford  me  any  assistance.  Makaroff  still  lay 
stretched  upon  the  ground,  and  Mr.  Chlebnikoff  was  laboring  to  climb 
the  rock  at  another  point.  Having  remained  in  this  dreadful  situation 
for  several  minutes,  my  hand  began  to  smart  severely,  and  I  was  on  the 
point  of  ending  my  sufferings  by  precipitating  myself  into  the  gulf,  more 
than  a  hundred  fathoms  beneath  me,  when  Makaroff,  suddenly  recover- 
ing, beheld  my  situation,  and  hastened  to  my  assistance.  Resting  his 
foot  upon  a  stone  which  projected  fi-om  the  rock  under  my  breast,  he 
with  one  hand  grasped  a  branch  qf  the  tree.  With  my  hand  which  was 
free  I  then  seized  his  girdle,  and,  by  a  great  effort  on  his  part,  I  was 
drawn  to  the  top  of  the  rock.  We  were  no  sooner  both  safe,  than  Ma- 
karoff again  fell  down  in  a  state  of  uisensibility.  Had  either  the  stone 
or  the  branch  of  the  tree  given  way,  we  must  both  have  been  precipi- 
tated to  the  bottom,  and  have  perished." 

"  Meanwhile,  Mr.  Chlebnikoff  had  climbed  to  the  middle  of  the  rock, 
when  such  obstacles  presented  themselves  that  ho  could  neither  move 
backward  nor  forward.  The  sailors  immediately  tied  together  the  sashes 
they  wore  as  girdles,  and,  having  lowered  one  end  until  he  was  enabled 
to  take  hold  of  it,  drew  him  from  his  perilous  situation." 

Tliey  passed  the  night  on  the  summit  of  one  of  the  highest  mount- 
wns  of  Matsmai,  but  Avere  not  able  to  sleep  much  on  account  of  the  in- 
tense cold.  Next  morning  they  cooked  some  garlic  and  sorrel  for 
breakfast,  and  then  descended  towai-d  the  sea-shore,  by  the  bed  of  a 
torrent — a  path  so  difficult,  that  a  single  false  step  would  have  dashed 
them  to  pieces.  Toward  evening  they  found  some  deserted  huts,  in 
which  they  passed  the  night  with  tolerable  comfort.  On  the  27  th  they 
emerged  from  the  hills,  and  were  cautiously  making  their  way  northward 
at  some  distance  from  the  shore,  when  they  suddenly  saw  a  party  of 
soldiers  on  horseback.  They  had  barely  time  to  conceal  themselves 
among  some  bushes,  and  the  men  passed  on  without  discovering  them. 
After  dark  they  descended  to  the  shore,  which  they  followed  all  night, 
passing  through  a  number  of  fishing  villages,  without  being  seen  by  any 
one.    They  found  several  boats,  but  all  were  too  small  for  their  purpose. 

Tlie  two  following  days  were  spent  in  the  same  manner,  the  fugitives 
proceeding  along  the  sea-shore  at  night,  and  hiding  themselves  among 


mmmmm 


432 


GOLOWNIN'S    CAPTIVITY 


IK    JAPAN. 


ceived  no  answer        We  then  ue  h  |  .^^^  ^^^^j^^^^ 

rarrelen.^ihSournni^^^  admit,  and  then  drew  Inm 

lar  as  trie  '«'"«^  informed  us,  that,  notwithstandmg  the  depth  to 

up  agam.    Wassiljett  ™«/™«^      '      ^  ^he  extent  of  the  hole ; 

""""  We  ri'Lnca  for  two  hour,  ta  iv  8t»to  of  tho  most  pataM  uncer- 
rfjTShlm'tmS-.u^'^en  scnethtag  -topped  him.  a„a 

::ittuCUa^ea*o.po.^^^^^^^ 

unexpected  appearance.    Atter  resimj, /"  „,tnfhUhodv     Even 

the  shore,  they  obseryca  a  """*  Schkaieff  hoping  to  find  some  pro- 
^™„ea.o  ta,^  *;Xtwt^ufhta  Ja,a„a  gr»peath» 
visions  m  the  tent,  enterea,  "'^      ^  .^      ^  j  ^w  and 

'«7r^.^:'r,T^ra«/of  morning  drove  them  once  more 
and  »^««PJ"S.7*^^- XL^prisedthemonthcside  of  abarrenmornit- 
among  the  hiHs  J>^f  ^^J  ^^^^^^^^^^^  few  scanty  bushes.  They  beheld 
ain,  covered  «"!>' ^^^^;"^;f  ^le,  along  the  shore,  as  fer  as  the  eye 
footpaths  on -ry  «  d^^^^^^^^^  J,.,u  as  they  could  but  soon 

could  sec.     iney  conceaiuu  «,,nns5tP  hill  who  was  lookmg  at 


aifiji'*'F,r.-iif>  Tuvwatnwrti. 


;ly  from  hunger, 
oat.    They  were 
)nc,  and  yet  were 
nee  between  the 
rso  twice  a  day. 
iges  in  the  dark, 
icy  called,  liiit  re- 
r "  says  Golownin, 
[own  into  the  hole 
him  gradually  aa 
id  then  drew  him 
ling  the  depth  to 
stent  of  the  hole ; 
iswer.    We  there- 
md  then  to  lower 
sr  Mr.  Chlobnikoff 

lost  painful  uncer- 
at  length  heard  a 
our  great  joy  and 
id  first  rolled  down 
;  stopped  him,  and 
)ed  a  second  time, 
me  fathoms.    For- 
lie  pit,  but  he  was, 
led  in  climbing  ujp 
surprised  us  by  his 
ne,  he  again  walked 
of  his  body.    Even 
the  frightful  gulfe 

irough  a  village  on 
tent  near  it.    They 
p  to  find  some  pro- 
nd,  and  grasped  the 
ried  out  loudly,  and 
id  a  stone  v;  all.    On 
tting  up  in  the  boat, 
)ve  them  once  more 
le  of  a  barren  mount- 
lUshes.    They  beheld 
re,  as  for  aa  the  eye 
they  could,  but  soon 
who  was  looking  at 
ey  could  not  see.    In 
Qolownin  and  Maka- 


RECAPTURE    AND    IMPRISONMENT. 


483 


roff  escaped  at  first,  they  were  all  ultimately  recaptured,  bound,  and 
taken  back  to  Matsmai  under  a  strong  guard. 

They  were  immediately  taken  before  the  bunyo  and  examined.  Mr. 
Moor,  who  was  present,  took  the  part  of  the  Japanese,  and  gave  Golow- 
nin and  Ilia  companions  much  trouble,  by  contradicting  many  of  their 
statements.  After  this  examination,  they  were  sent  to  the  city  prison, 
in  which  the  Japanese  criminals  were  confined.  Here,  after  being  strip- 
ped and  searched,  Golownin  and  Chlebnikoff  were  put  into  separate 
cages,  and  the  four  sailors  in  a  third,  which  was  larger  and  better  sup- 
plied with  light  and  air.  Golownin  had  taken  upon  himself  the  whole 
responsibility  of  the  fliglit,  informing  the  Japanese  that  the  sailors  were 
bound  to  obey  him,  and  were  therefore  not  to  blame.  Nearly  every 
day  they  were  carried  before  the  bunyo  and  subjected  to  weary  and 
perplexing  interrogatories.  Toward  the  last  of  June  a  new  bunyo  ar- 
rived from  Ycdo,  and  matters  apparently  became  more  favorable,  for  on 
the  9th  of  July  they  were  removed  fi*om  the  city  prison  to  the  house 
which  they  had  occupied  previous  to  their  flight. 

They  were  now  also  treated  with  more  kindness  than  formerly. 
"  Our  guards,"  says  Golownin,  "  treated  us  with  much  civility,  giving  us 
sometimes  sagi,  fruit,  etc.,  and  these  acts  of  kindness  were  no  longer 
performed  by  stealth.  An  old  man,  seventy  years  of  age,  brought  some 
fans  and  lackered  spoons  for  Mr.  Chlebnikofi'  and  me,  and  an  ink-stand, 
ink,  and  pencil,  for  Schkajeff,  who,  though  sufiering  from  severe  illness, 
was  exceedingly  anxious  to  practice  reading  and  writing.  This  man, 
though  arrived  at  the  age  of  thirty-two  in  total  ignorance,  had,  while  on 
board  the  sloop,  by  extreme  application,  learned  to  read,  and  likewise  to 
write  a  little.  To  pass  away  the  time,  Mr.  Chlebnikoff  and  I  took  upon 
ourselves  the  task  of  instructing  the  sailors.  Schkajeff,  who  suffered 
seven'ly  from  indisposition,  feared  lest  the  others  might  advance  more 
rapidly  than  he,  and,  whenever  he  experienced  the  least  mitigation  of 
his  illness,  never  failed  to  employ  himself  either  in  reading  or  writing. 
He  applied  to  both  with  unremitted  assiduity,  while  his  companions  re- 
garded the  task  of  learning  to  read  as  too  difficult,  and  abandoned  it 
before  they  had  acquired  the  alphabet.  Mr.  Chlebnikoff  gave  him  in- 
structions every  evening,  so  that  in  time  he  could  read  and  write  tolera- 
bly well. 

"  Nothing  remarkable  occurred  until  September ;  but  I  can  not  omit 
mentioning  a  circumstance  wLioh  is  characteristic  of  the  customs  of  the 
Japanese.  One  day,  a  dinner  was  sent  to  us  of  far  better  quality  than 
that  to  which  we  had  been  accustomed,  and  it  was  served  in  elegant 
dishes.  Every  person  who  visited  us  congratulated  us  on  receiving  this 
compliment,  which  we  concluded  came  from  the  bunyo ;  but  we  after- 
ward learned  that  the  dinner  had  been  sent  by  a  rich  man,  who  was 
suffering  luider  a  dangerous  fit  of  illness ;  and  that  in  such  cases  it  was 
customary  for  the  Japanese  to  send  presents  of  that  sort  to  the  poor  and 
unfortimate," 

28 


I 


434  GOLOWNIN'8   CAPTIVITY    IN    JAPAN. 

On  the  Cth  of  September  they  Avcre  conducted  to  the  castle,  oiid  to 
their  surprise  and  joy,  received  a  letter  from  Lieutenant  ll.kord,  statmg 
ha  he  was  at  the  island  of  Kunashir  with  the  Diana;  that  he  knew  not 
whether  they  were  dead  or  Uving,  but  would  not  leave  until  he  had  re- 
eved news  of  them.    This  letter  wa.s  accompanied  with  an  application 
to  Ihc  Jalieso  government  for  their  release.    These  papers  were  trans- 
Id  aSrwarded  to  Yedo ;  but  in  a  fortnight  afterward  t- Japanese 
interpreterB  announced  to  Golownin  that  Rikord  had  saUed  back  to 
Sberil,  taking  with  him  five  of  the  crew  of  a  Japanese  vesse  which  he 
h  d  encounteld.    About  the  middle  of  October  another  lett^^^^^^^^^^ 
livercd  to  Golownin.    It  was  from  Lieutenant  Rudakoff,  and  stated  that 
on  ir     a^-riving  at  Kunashir  they  were  informed  that  the  prisoners  had 
Ln  1   to  defth.    They  then  determined  to  commence  hostihties,  -d 
.ccm-dingly  captured  a  Japanese  junk,  from  the  crew  of  which  they 
ierned  that  their  friends  were  stiU  alive.    They  had,  nevertheless,  taken 
Z  master  of  the  junk  and  four  sailors  with  them,  and  would  return 
early  the  next  year,  to  procure  Golownin's  liberation. 

"A  ray  of  hope  «o^  ^«g-"  *«  ^^^^^  "P°"  "^'"  T  ^.TT'"'     7t 
seemed  to  rescue  us  from  utter  despair.    Thus  perplexed  between    he 

expectation  of  liberty  and  distrust  of  the  Japanese.  -  -  -f  J^^^^^^^ 
new  year,  1813."    During  the  winter  and  sprmg,  they  lived  ma  state 
TJZ  trouble  and  perplexity,  on  account  of  the  smgular  conduct  of 
Mr  Moor,  who  sometimes  appeared  to  repent  of  lus  past  basene«s^^and 
to  desire  to  regain  their  confidence,  while  at  other  times,  he  did  all  m 
his  twer  to  prejudice  the  Japanese  against  them.    His  behavior  was  so 
extroTdinar/^^^^^  Golownin  Vas  forced  to  believe  that  his  mind  was 
aS  re^^d  subsequent  occurrences  confirmed  him  in  his  opmion 
"On  the  10th  of  May?"  says  the  narrative,  "the  note  which  we  had  re- 
qi?e:t  d  iZission  fo  dispatch  to  the  different  fortified  harbors,^oui 
form  our  friends  that  wo  were  living  and  well,  was  returned  from  the 
capTtal.  The  government  had  approved  of  its  contents,  and  consequently 
Tt  a  single  letter  could  bo  altered.    Having  made  five  copies,  and 
affixed  2  signatures  to  each,  they  were  dispatched  on  the  s^e  day  to 
Teir  several  destinations.    This  note  waa  to  the  following  effect : 
w 

"  ^  We  are  all,  both  officers  a«d  seamen,  and  t^^^^^^^^^l^x^^^^^^^ 

^"'i^MayTorisia.  FK0.OKMO0B.. 

"Mr.  Chlebnikoff  was  unable  to  sign  the  notes  on  account  of  severe 

'""'on  the  20th  of  Jmie  they  received  information  of  the  arrival  of  the 
D/^^Kunashir,  and  on  the  following  day  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
orders  to  ask  Golownin  which  of  the  sailors  he  wished  1  end  on  board 
To  avoid  showing  any  preference  to  one  more  than  a...ther,  he  deter 
Sned    iia    chance  should  decide  the  matter,  and  the  lot  aappened  to 


PAN. 

I  the  castle,  and  to 
mt  Uikord,  stating 
;  that  lie  knew  not 
,vc  until  he  had  re- 
with  an  application 
I  papers  werp  trans- 
•ward  the  Japanese 
liad  sailed  hack  to 
eso  vessel  which  he 
other  letter  was  de- 
;off,  and  stated  that 
it  the  prisoners  had 
ence  hostilities,  and 
jrew  of  -which  they 
,  nevertheless,  taken 
1,  and  would  return 

1. 

ays  Golownin,  "  and 
plexed  between  the 
we  entered  upon  the 
they  lived  in  a  state 
I  singular  conduct  of 
is  past  baseness,  and 
r  times,  he  did  all  in 

His  behavior  was  so 
e  that  his  mind  was 

him  in  his  opinion, 
jte  which  we  had  re- 
rtified  harbors,  to  in- 
8  returned  from  the 
nts,  and  consequently 
lade  five  copies,  and 
d  on  the  same  day  to 
Qowing  effect : 

e  Kurile  Alexei,  alive, 

''A88ILY  GOLOWNIN. 
KODOB  MOOE.' 


on  account  of  severe 

1  of  the  arrival  of  the 
I  inte-ireters  received 
ihcd  t  jend  on  board. 
»an  ai.^ther,  he  deter- 
l  the  lot.  i,appened  to 


A   SAILOR'S   RETURN. 


486 


fidl  to  Simanoff.  Ho  also  requested  that  the  governor  would  permit 
Alexei  to  accompany  him.  To  this  the  latter  consented,  and  they  re- 
ceived orders  to  prepare  for  their  departure.  They  left  Matsmai  on  the 
24th,  accompanied  by  Kamaddschero,  the  interpreter,  and  Sampey,  the 
deputy  governor,* 

Nothing  further  happened  until  the  10th  of  July,  when  a  letter  was 
received  from  Captain  Kikord,  stating  that  he  should  sail  immediately 
for  Okhotzk,  and  return  in  September,  bringing  the  declaration  required 
by  the  Japanese  government,  that  Chwostoff 's  attack  was  an  act  of  pri- 
vate aggression  merely.  A  few  days  afterward,  Simanoff  and  Alexei 
were  brought  back  to  Matsmai,  the  Diana  having  sailed.  From  this 
time  forward  the  prisoners  were  kindly  treated.  The  Japanese  govern- 
ment appeared  to  have  decided  to  liberate  them,  and  they  were  relieved 
from  the  torturing  suspense  which  they  had  suffered  for  nearly  two  years. 
On  the  30th  of  August  they  left  Matsmai,  for  Hakodadi ;  previous  to 
their  departure,  the  officers  came,  with  their  children,  to  bid  them  fare- 
well, and  offered  them  farewell  cards.  The  people,  who  had  assembled 
in  great  multitudes  in  the  streets,  all  pressed  forward  to  bid  them  adieu. 
On  the  2d  of  September,  they  entered  Hakodadi,  and  were  quartered  in 
an  imperial  building,  near  the  garrison. 

On  the  16th,  they  were  rejoiced  with  the  news  that  a  foreign  vessel 

*  In  Captain  Rikord's  account  of  his  negotiations  with  the  Japanese  for  the  release 
of  Golownin  and  his  companions,  he  gives  the  following  description  of  Simanoff 's  arrival. 
Tatchatay-Eacbi,  the  Japanese  junk  owner,  whom  Rikord  had  carried  off  the  previous 
summer,  informed  him  on  the  26th  of  June,  that  an  imperial  vessel  was  about  to  arrive 
iVom  Matsmai,  with  the  deputy  of  the  bunyo.  The  next  evening  the  vessel  came  into 
port,  and  Kachi  went  on  shore  to  meet  the  deputy,  promising  to  return  in  the  morning. 
Rikord  then  continues:  "  Faithflil  to  his  appointment,  we  saw  him  in  the  morning  com- 
ing down  to  tiie  shore,  in  company  with  another  man.  Kachi  was  instantly  recognized 
by  the  white  handkerchief  which  he  always  waved  at  the  end  of  his  saber ;  and  with  re- 
spect to  the  other,  we  did  not  remain  long  in  uncertainty,  for  as  they  advanced,  our 
worthy  little  friend  occasionally  vanished  fh>m  our  view,  in  consequence  of  falling  behind 
his  more  bulky  companion.    We  all  exclaimed,  'That  is  one  of  our  Russiana' 

"It  is  impossible  for  me  to  describe  the  moving  scene  which  followed,  when  our 
sulors  beheld  their  comrade  returned  from  captivity.  A  part  of  the  crew  were  filling 
water-casks  at  the  rivulet.  When  the  prisoner  saw  Russians  on  the  other  side  of  the 
stream,  and  probably  recognized  among  them  some  of  his  old  messmates,  he  made  but 
one  step  to  its  banks,  leaving  Kachi  at  least  nine  paces  behind  him.  Surprise  and  joy 
made  our  sailors  forget  that  they  were  prohibited  from  crossing  the  rivulet.  They  waded 
through  it,  and  embraced  the  welcome  visitor  in  the  most  affectionate  manner.  The 
officer  who  had  the  command  of  the  party  on  shore  informed  me,  that  at  first  he  did  not 
know  the  stranger,  he  was  so  altered  by  the  sufferings  he  had  undergone.  At  last,  all 
the  men  cried  out  with  one  voice,  '  Simanoff  I'  for  that  was  his  name.  He  then  threw  off 
his  hat,  knelt  down,  and  could  not  utter  a  word ;  but  the  tears  rolled  fast  down  his 
cheeks.  This  affecting  spectacle  was  renewed  when  he  came  on  board  the  ship.  I 
saluted  him  first,  and  asked  whether  our  friends  in  Matsmai  were  well.  'Ood  be  praised,' 
he  replied,  '  they  are  in  life,  though  not  all  quite  well.  Mr.  Chlobnikoff,  in  particular,  is 
dangerously  ill'  I  repressed  my  desire  to  ask  fbrther  questions,  knowing  the  impatience 
with  which  the  men  were  waiting  for  a  talk  witli  him." 


mm 


MKkKNM    4Bi     «l 


I 


486 


GOLOWNIN'S    CAPTIVITY    IN   JAPAN. 


had  been  seen  off  the  coast.  This  was  the  Diana,  but  she  did  not  enter 
the  harbor  of  Hakodadi  until  the  28th.  Captain  liikord  immediately 
sent  on  shore  the  declaration  of  the  commandant  of  Okhotzk,  which  was 
satisfactory  to  the  authorities ;  for,  after  some  fui  ther  negotiations  and 
ceremonies,  the  prisoners  were  finally  summoned  before  the  bunyo  on 
the  0th  of  October,  to  receive  the  official  notice  of  their  liberation.  The 
bunyo  presented  them  with  the  following  congratulatory  address :  "  You 
have  now  lived  three  years  in  a  Japanese  frontier  town,  and  in  a  foreign 
climate,  but  you  are  now  about  to  return  to  your  native  country.  This 
affords  me  great  pleasure.  You,  Captain  Golownin,  as  the  chief  of  your 
companions,  must  have  endured  extreme  anxiety  of  mind,  and  I  sincerely 
rejoice  that  you  have  attained  your  happy  deliverance.  You  have,  in 
some  measure,  become  acquainted  with  the  laws  of  our  country,  which 
prohibit  us  from  maintaining  any  commerce  with  the  people  of  foreign 
nations,  and  require  that  we  should  banish  all  foreign  vessels  from  our 
coasts.  Explain  this  to  your  countrymen  on  your  return  home.  It  has 
been  our  wish,  while  you  remained  in  Japan,  to  treat  you  with  all  possi- 
ble kindness ;  but,  before  you  became  acquainted  with  our  customs,  our 
behavior  may  have  appeared  to  you  the  very  opposite  of  what  we  in- 
tended. Each  nation  has  its  peculiar  customs,  but  good  conduct  will 
everywhere  be  esteemed  as  such.  On  your  return  to  Russia,  inform 
your  countrymen  of  this  likewse.    I  wish  you  all  a  safe  voyage." 

"  On  the  following  day,  the  7th  of  October,  we  put  on  our  best 
dresses.  The  servants  and  guards  packed  up  our  other  clothes  in  boxes, 
without  omitting  the  least  trifle,  and  placed  them  in  the  portico  of  the 
house.  At  mid-day  Ave  were  conducted  to  the  shore.  Our  clothes,  the 
presents  we  had  received,  and  the  provbions  for  our  voyage,  were  car- 
ried behind  us  by  a  number  of  attendants.  On  reaching  the  harbor,  wo 
entered  a  building  near  the  custom-house,  where  Mr,  Moor,  Mr.  Chleb- 
nikoff  and  I,  were  shown  into  one  apartment,  and  the  sailors  into  another. 
We  had  been  only  a  few  moments  in  this  place,  when  Captain  Rikord 
came  ashore,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Saweljeff,  the  interpreter,  and  some 
other  individuals.  Rikord  and  his  two  companions  were  conducted  to 
the  same  apartment  in  which,  a  few  days  before,  my  interview  with  him 
had  taken  place,  and  which  Mr.  Chlebnikoff,  Mr.  Moor  and  I,  were  now 
requested  to  enter. 

"Every  thing  being  in  readiness  for  our  departure,  we  were  con- 
ducted to  the  bunyo's  barge,  in  which  we  embarked,  accompanied  by 
Tachatay-Kachi ;  our  clothes,  provisions,  and  the  presents,  being  placed 
in  separate  boats.  On  our  way  from  the  custom-house  to  the  boats,  all 
the  Japanese,  not  only  those  with  whom  we  were  acquainted,  but  the 
strangers  who  were  looking  on,  bade  us  adieu,  and  wished  us  a  safe  voyage. 

"  The  officers  and  seamen  on  board  the  Diana,  received  us  with  a 
degree  of  joy,  or  rather  enthusiasm,  which  can  only  be  felt  by  brothers 
or  dear  friends  afler  a  long  absence,  and  a  series  of  similar  adventures. 
With  regard  to  ourselves,  I  can  only  say,  that  after  an  imprisonment  of 
two  years,  two  months,  and  twenty-six  days,  on  finding  ourselves  again 


mmmmm 


ta-faMI^.^1..M>-Bilf.|,      ..■„4.'.M.-^-r.^^>^  ■»....     .^...^jj^^.^^^,^^    --'Mf-'-1%-tflfrV-rtl^.ll 


PAN. 

ut  she  did  not  enter 
likord  immediately 
Okliotzk,  which  waa 
.er  negotiations  and 
lefore  the  bunyo  on 
leir  liberation.    The 
tory address :  "You 
>wn,  and  in  a  foreign 
ative  country.    This 
,  as  the  chief  of  your 
mind,  and  I  sincerely 
ranee.    You  have,  in 
f  our  country,  which 
the  people  of  foreign 
ign  vessels  from  our 
return  home.    It  has 
sat  you  with  all  possi- 
(vith  our  customs,  our 
»08ite  of  what  we  in- 
ut  good  conduct  will 
irn  to  Russia,  inform 
a  safe  voyage." 

we  put  on  our  best 
other  clothes  in  boxes, 
a  in  the  portico  of  the 
ore.  Our  clothes,  the 
our  voyage,  were  car- 
jaching  the  harbor,  we 
Mr,  Moor,  Mr.  Chleb- 
the  sailors  into  another, 
when  Captain  Rikord 

interpreter,  and  some 
)ns  were  conducted  to 
my  interview  with  him 
Moor  and  I,  were  now 


sparture,  wo  were  con- 
arked,  accompanied  by 
I  presents,  being  placed 
a-house  to  the  boats,  all 
jre  acquainted,  but  the 
wished  us  a  safe  voyage. 
%na,  received  us  with  a 
only  be  felt  by  brothers 
!3  of  similar  adventures, 
fter  an  imprisonment  of 
I  finding  ourselves  again 


RETURN    TO    RUSSIA. 


487 


on  an  imperial  Russian  ship,  surrounded  by  our  countrymen,  with  whom 
wo  had  for  five  or  six  years  served  in  remote  and  dangerous  voyages, 
we  felt  what  men  in  such  circumstances  arc  capable  of  feeling,  but  which 
can  not  be  described."* 

The  Diana  sailed  from  Hakodadi  on  the  10th  of  October,  and 
reached  Kamtschatka  on  the  2d  of  November.  Twenty  days  afterward 
Mr.  Moor,  who  had  been  plunged  in  melancholy  since  his  liberation, 
committed  suicide.  Captain  Golownin  lost  no  time  in  jirooceding  to 
St.  Petersburg,  where  he  arrived  on  the  14th  of  July,  1814,  aftor  an 
absence  of  seven  years.  He  and  Rikord  were  made  Captains  of  the 
second  rank,  and  received  pensions  of  1500  rubles  annually;  Mr.  Clileb- 
nikoff  received  a  pension  equal  to  his  yearly  pay,  while  the  sailors  who 
had  been  prisoners  in  Japan,  received  permission  to  retire  from  the 
service,  and  were  allowed  annual  pensions,  amounting  to  their  full  yearly 
pay.  The  Kurile,  Alexei,  as  a  reward  for  his  good  conduct,  was  pre- 
sented with  a  lianger,  and  received,  instead  of  a  pension,  twenty  pounds 
of  powder,  and  forty  pounds  of  shot. 

*  Captain  Rikord,  in  his  narrative,  gives  the  following  account  of  this  scene  :  "  At 
twelve  o'cloclt  I  went  on  board  the  barge,  accompanied  only  by  Savoljofif  and  Kissoleft", 
and  we  rowed,  under  white  flags,  to  the  well-known  building,  wliere  the  Japonese  were 
in  waiting  to  receive  us.  Our  prisoners  immediately  appeared  at  the  door.  They  all 
■wore  yellow  dresses,  with  seamen's  trowsers,  and  waistcoats  of  various  colors.  On  any 
other  occasion  we  should  have  been  highly  diverted  by  the  singularity  of  their  appear- 
ance, but  now  it  did  not  even  excite  a  smile.  Friend  gazed  at  friend  with  emotion  and 
joy,  and  our  thoughts  were  expressed  more  by  looks  than  by  words.  Tears  of  gratitude 
to  Providence  glistened  in  the  eyes  of  our  liberated  countrymen.  The  Japanese  retired 
and  left  us  for  some  time  alone,  in  order  that  we  might  give  vent  to  our  feelings.  My 
countrymen  were  then  formally  dehvered  over  to  me.  The  papers  of  the  Japanese  gov- 
ernment, which  I  was  to  lay  before  the  authorities  on  my  arrival  in  Russia,  were  pre- 
sented to  me,  and  refreshments  were  then  handed  to  us  in  the  usual  manner. 

"  Having  once  more  expressed  our  sincere  thanks,  we  rowed  from  the  shore  at  two 
o'clock,  accompanied  by  a  countless  number  of  boats,  crowded  with  Japanese  of  both 
sexes.  Notwithstanding  a  violent  adverse  wind,  none  of  the  numerous  boats  by  which 
we  were  surrounded  put  back.  The  Diana  was  decorated  with  flags,  and  all  her  yards 
were  manned  by  the  crew,  who  saluted  us  with  three  cheers.  The  enthusiasm  of  the 
seamen,  on  once  more  beholding  their  bc'.cved  commander  and  his  companions  in  mis- 
fortune, after  a  separation  of  two  years  and  three  months,  was  boundless.  Many  melted 
into  tears.  This  scene,  so  highly  honorable  to  tho  whole  crew,  can  never  be  effaced 
from  my  recollection.  Golownin  and  his  companions,  who  were  moved  to  their  inmost 
souls,  knelt  down  before  the  sacred  image  of  the  ship  (the  miracle-working  Saint  Nicolas), 
and  returned  thanks  to  heaven. 

"  Golownin  presented  to  me  his  sword ;  the  same  which,  during  his  captivity,  tho 
emperor  of  Japan  had  expressed  a  wish  to  see,  and  I  now  preserve  it  as  the  most  val- 
uable reward  of  my  enterprise.  To  the  officers  he  gave  his  telescopes,  pistols,  and  astro- 
nomical instruments.  He  gave  to  the  senior  non-commissioned  officer  one  hundred 
rubles;  to  the  juniors  seventy-flve ;  to  each  seaman  twenty-five ;  and  to  the  sailors  who 
had  been  his  companions  in  captivity  five  hundred  rubles  each.  But  to  Makaroff,  who, 
as  the  reader  knows,  was  of  particular  use  to  him,  he  besides  granted  a  pension,  amount- 
ing to  a  seaman's  annual  pay,  from  his  estate  in  the  government  of  Kasan.  To  the 
Kurile,  Alexei,  he  gave  a  set  of  carpenters'  tools,  a  rifle,  powder,  shot,  tobacco,  and  two 
hundred  and  fifty  rubles  in  money." 


\ 


•1* 


DE  LASCARIS'S 


SECRET    MISSION    AMONG    THE    BEDOUINS. 


M.  DE  Lascaris  was  a  Picdmontesc,  of  one  of  those  Greek  families 
which  settled  in  Italy  after  the  conquest  of  Constantinople :  he  was  a 
knight  of  Malta  when  Napoleon  conquered  the  island.  He  was  then  a 
very  young  man :  he  followed  the  Corsican  to  Egypt,  attached  himself 
to  his  fortunes,  and  was  fascinated  by  his  genius.  Foreseeing  Napo- 
leon's future  eminence,  he  endeavored  to  impress  upon  his  mind  that  Asia 
was  a  far  grander  field  for  his  ambition  than  Europe.  It  appears  that 
some  conversations  were  held  on  the  subject :  Napoleon  did  not  entirely 
embrace  the  idea  of  a  magnificent  oriental  empire  which  was  the  be- 
wildering dream  of  Do  Lascaris ;  but,  on  the  eve  of  his  departure  for 
Europe,  he  appointed  the  latter  his  secret  agent,  gave  him  instructions 
and  supplied  him  with  ample  means. 

De  Lascaris  settled  himself  at  Aleppo,  to  acquire  a  thorough  knowl- 
edge of  Arabic,  and  form  acquaintances  with  the  Arab  chiefs  of  the 
Syrian  Desert  who  came  to  that  city.  After  some  years'  preparation, 
he  commenced  his  perilous  enterprise ;  he  passed,  at  great  risk,  and  un- 
der different  disguises,  through  all  the  tribes  of  Mesopotamia  and  the 
Euphrates,  and  returned  to  Aleppo,  rich  in  the  knowledge  he  had  ac- 
quired, and  in  the  political  relations  he  had  prepared  for  Napoleon. 
But  while  accomplishing  his  mission,  fortune  overthrew  his  hero,  and  he 
learned  his  downfall  on  the  very  day  when  he  was  about  to  carry  to 
France  the  fruits  of  his  danger  and  devotion.  This  disappointment  was 
fatal  to  him ;  he  went  into  Egypt,  and  died  at  Cairo,  alone,  unknown, 
and  abandoned.  His  journals  and  notes  arc  supposed  to  have  fallen  into 
the  hands  of  Mr.  Salt,  then  English  Consul  at  Cairo,  and  were  never 
afterward  heard  of. 

While  M.  de  Lamartine  was  traveling  in  Syria,  he  learned,  accident- 
ally, that  an  Arab  named  Fatallah  Sayeghir,  who  was  the  companion  of 
De  Lascaris  on  all  his  journeys,  and  who  had  kept  a  journal  of  all  his 
experiences  and  adventures,  was  then  living  at  Latakia.  Lamartine  im- 
mediately sent  a  messenger  to  Fatallah,  offering  him  two  thousand  pias- 


■Miiiiiiil 


440 


DB    LASCARIS'S    SECRET    MISSION. 


■If 


tors  for  the  journal.  Tim  offor  was  accepted  in  the  course  of  time,  the 
vohirno  translate.1  into  Italian  by  Lamartinc's  interpreter,  and  finally 
into  French  by  the  poet  himself.  Although  exaggerated  and  romantic 
in  p-irts  it  is  valuable  for  its  illustrations  of  the  life  and  habits  of  the 
Avundering  Bedouin  tribes  of  the  Syrian  Desert,  and  its  descriptions  ot 
Home  localities  (especially  in  the  district  of  Nedjid),  which  no  European 
traveler  has  yet  reached.  Many  of  the  adventures  related  have  a  strc.ng 
tin-e  of  improbability  about  them,  and  the  reader  must  bearinmmd 
tlurt  the  narrator  is  an  Arab,  and  not  likely  to  be  free  from  the  habit  ot 
exaggeration  peculiar  to  his  race.  Lamartine,  however,  seems  to  enter- 
tain^no  doubt  of  the  truth  of  his  story.  , 

Fatallah  Sayeghir  first  met  with  M.  Lascaris  de  Ventimiglia  in 
Aleppo,  in  1809,  when  he  was  engaged  to  give  him  lessons  in  Arabic. 
When  M  Lascaris  had  learned  to  read  and  write  tolerably  well,  he  gave 
Fatallah  some  money  and  told  him  to  buy  goods,  such  as  were  saleable 
at  Iloms,  at  llama,  and  the  neighborhood,  saying  that  they  would  trade 
in  the  countries  least  frequented  by  merchants.  Fatallah  had  become 
attached  to  M.  Lascaris,  and  accordingly  made  the  purchases,  for  which 
31  Lascaris  paid  eleven  thousand  piasters.  From  his  dress  and  manners 
the  people  of  Aleppo  thought  M.  Lascaris  mad.  He  wore  his  beard  long 
and  ill-combed,  a  very  dirty  white  turban,  a  shabby  robe,  with  a  vest,  a 
leather  belt,  and  red  shoes  without  stockings ;  when  spoken  to  he  pre- 
tended not  to  understand  what  was  said.  But  Fatallah  had  confidence 
in  his  integrity  and  good  sense,  and,  in  compliance  with  his  request, 
promised  to  obey  him  in  every  thing. 

They  left  Aleppo  on  the  18th  of  February,  1810,  with  a  caravan 
bound  for  llama.    While  at  the  latter  place,  M.  Lascaris  was  viewing 
the  half-ruined  castle,  and  had  begun  to  take  a  sketch  of  it,  when  some 
va-abonds  ran  out  upon  him  from  a  broken  arch  and  threatened  to  de- 
nounce him  for  wishing  to  carry  off  treasures  and  introduce  the  giaours 
into  the  castle.    He  defended  himself  and  escaped  with  difficulty,  but 
soon  afterward  ho  and  his  companion  were  arrested  and  thrown  into  a 
dun<reon.    Fatallah  sent  for  a  Christian  writer  named  Sdim,  by  whose 
interference  they  were  enabled  to  purchase  their  liberty.    They  remamed 
three  weeks  with  Selim  and  his  friends,  and  on  the  25th  of  March  pro- 
ceeded with  a  caravan  to  Horns.    During  a  stay  of  thirty  days  at  this 
place,  M.  Lascaris  obtained  much  information  respectmg  the  Bedouins, 
from  a  locksmith  who  passed  much  of  his  time  with  them,  arranging 
their  arms.    They  then  pursued  their  route  to  Saddad,  where  they  im- 
packed  their  goods,  to  sustain  their  character  of  merchants.    The  shekh 
and  people  of  the  village  endeavored  to  dissuade  them  trom  visiting  the 
Bedouins,  whom  they  represented  as  most  cruel  and  rapacious ;  but  the 
travelers,  nothing  daunted,  continued  their  journey  to  Conetain  stiU 
hoping  to  meet  with  a  detachment  of  Bedomns,  who  pass  this  region  m 
their  annual  migrations.    Meanwhile,  the  locknmith  Naufal,  who  accom- 
panied them  from  Horns,  advised  them  to  change  their  names,  as  their 


•oursc  of  time,  tho 
j)reter,  and  finally 
atcd  and  romfintio 
13  and  habits  of  tho 
its  descriptions  of 
vhich  no  Emoijoan 
latcd  have  a  stroni? 
must  bear  in  mind 
(  from  tho  habit  of 
rer,  seems  to  enter- 

de  Vcntimiglia  in 
lessons  in  Arabic, 
irably  well,  he  gave 
ch  as  were  saleable 
It  they  would  trade 
itallah  had  become 
(urchases,  for  which 
s  dress  and  manners 
wore  his  beard  long 
robe,  with  a  vest,  a 
spoken  to  he  pre- 
Uah  had  confidence 
3c  with  his  request, 

110,  with  a  caravan 
ascaris  was  viewing 
eh  of  it,  when  some 
cl  threatened  to  de- 
itroducc  the  giaours 

with  difficulty,  but 

and  thrown  into  a 
led  Selim,  by  whose 
•ty.    They  remained 

2'5th  of  March  pro- 
'  thirty  days  at  this 
cting  the  Bedoums, 
dth  them,  arranging 
dad,  where  they  un- 
rchants.  The  shekh 
em  from  visiting  the 
i  rapacious ;  but  the 
ey  to  Corietain,  still 
lO  pass  this  region  in 

Naufal,  who  accom- 
their  names,  as  their 


ARAB    HONOR. 


441 


own  would  create  suspicion  in  tho  HodouinH  and  Turks.  Accordingly, 
]M,  Lascaris  took  tho  name  of  Shekh  Ihrnliini  el  ('.ibrc'ssi  (tho  Cyprian), 
and  pave  to  Fatallah  that  of  Abilalinh  el  Katib.  Tho  Shekh  Selini,  of 
Corietain,  likewise  endeavored  to  discotirage  thorn  from  penetrating  into 
tlio  desert,  and  repeated  a  thousand  alnnniiig  stories  about  the  Ik'douins, 
but  when  M.  Lascaris  consulted  Fatallah,  tho  latter  encouraged  him  to 
proceed,  saying  that  if  ho  acted  honorably  there  was  nothing  to  fear. 

" In  a  sliort  time,"  says  Fatallah,  " mo  learned  that  the  lledouins 
M-ero  approaching  Palmyra :  somo  were  seen  even  in  the  environs  of 
Corietain.  Presently  Ibcro  came  one,  named  Selame  tl  Hassan.  AVo 
were  at  Selim's  when  he  entered.  Coffee  was  brought,  and  while  wo 
were  taking  it,  many  of  tho  inhabitants  came  to  tho  shekh,  and  said : 
'  Eight  years  ago,  at  such  a  place,  Hassan  killed  our  relative;  and  we 
are  come  to  demand  justice.'  1  [.issan  denied  the  fact,  and  asked  if  they 
had  Antnesses.  '  No,'  they  rci)lie(l ;  '  but  you  More  seen  passing  alone 
on  the  road,  and  a  little  after  wo  found  our  relative  lying  dead.  Wo 
know  that  there  existed  a  cause  of  hatred  between  you  ;  it  is  therefore 
clear  that  you  are  his  assassin.'  Hassan  still  denied  the  charge ;  and  tl  o 
shekh,  who  from  fear  was  obliged  to  exercise  caution  with  the  IJedouins, 
and  besides  had  no  positive  proof  in  the  case,  took  a  piece  of  wood  and 
said,  '  By  Him  who  created  this  stem,  swear  that  you  have  not  killed 
their  relation.'  Hassan  took  the  wood,  looked  at  it  some  minutes,  and 
bent  down  his  head  ;  then  raising  it  toward  his  accusers, '  I  will  not  have,' 
said  he,  '  two  crimes  on  my  heart — the  one  of  being  tho  murderer  of 
this  man,  the  other  of  swearing  falsely  before  God.  It  is  I  who  have 
killed  your  kinsman  :  what  do  you  demand  for  the  price  of  his  blood  ?' 
The  shekh,  from  policy,  would  not  act  according  to  the  full  rigor  of 
the  law  :  and  the  persons  present  being  interested  in  the  negotiation, 
it  was  decided  that  Hassan  should  pay  three  hundred  piasters  to  the  re- 
lations of  the  dead.  When  it  came  to  tho  payment  of  the  money,  ho 
said  he  had  it  not  about  him,  but  that  he  would  bring  it  in  a  few  days ; 
and  as  some  difficulty  was  made  of  letting  him  go  Avithout  security,  '  I 
have  no  pledge,'  said  he,  '  to  give ;  but  Ho  will  answer  for  me  whoso 
name  I  would  not  profane  by  a  false  oath.'  Ho  departed ;  and  four  days 
afterward  returned  vnih  fifteen  sheep,  each  worth  above  twenty  piasters." 

M.  Lascaris  being  pleased  with  tho  character  of  Hassan,  made  his 
acquaintance  ;  they  became  intimate  friends,  and  when  the  travelers  pro- 
posed to  sot  out  for  Palmyra,  he  engaged  to  conduct  them  thither  in 
safety.  On  their  way  M.  Lascaris  dislocated  his  ankle  while  mounting 
his  camel,  but  he  would  not  be  detained,  and  they  continued  their  route. 
Soon  afterward  they  met  a  troop  of  armed  Bedouins,  who  immediately 
gave  battle.  Hassan  weLt  forward  to  meet  them,  and  sustained  the 
attack  for  half  an  hour,  but  he  Avas  at  length  woimded  by  a  lance  and 
fell  from  his  horse.  The  Bedouins  then  began  to  plunder  the  party, 
when  Hassan,  who  lay  bleeding  upon  the  ground,  thus  addressed  them : 
"  What  are  you  about,  my  friends  ? — will  you  then  violate  the  laws  of 


442 


DE    LASCAUIS'S    8KCRET    MISSION. 


..I 


Arabs,  the  usages  of  the  Bedouins?  They  whom  you  arc  plundering 
are  my  brcthron-they  have  my  word;  I  am  re8iK)n8iblo  lor  all  that 
may  befall  them,  and  you  are  robbing  thcm!-is  this  according  to 
honor?"  The  Bedouins  charged  him  with  conducting  Chns  lans  to 
Palmyra,  without  asking  the  permission  of  the  shekh,  Mehanna  el  Jadel, 
the  chief  of  the  country.  He  replied  that  the  merchants  were  m  haste, 
and  Mehaima  was  far  away;  that  ho  had  pledged  h.s  word,  and  the 
Btranccrs  had  confided  in  the  laws  and  usages  of  his  country.  At  his 
word!  the  Bedouins  desisted,  and  only  took  from  the  Jravders  what  they 
chose  to  give.  They  then  pursued  their  journey  with  d.fheulty,  M.  Las- 
caris  suffering  from  his  foot  and  Hassan  from  his  wound,  and  arrived  at 
Palmyra  on  the  following  day. 

Hero  they  hired  a  house  and  exposed  their  goods  for  sale,  until  M. 
Lascaris  had  recovered,  wlicn  they  went  to  visit  the  temples  and  mag- 
nificent ruins  of  the  place.  "  One  day,"  says  Fata^lah  ^o  saw  many 
people  engaged  in  surrounding  with  wood  a  beautiful  gramto  column. 
We  were  told  it  was  to  burn  it,  or  rather  to  cause  it  to  Ml  in  order  to 
obtain  the  lead  which  was  in  the  joinings.  Shekh  Ibrahim,  full  of  indig- 
nation, addressing  me,  exclaimed,  "What  would  the  foundeis  of  Pal- 
myrasay  if  they  beheld  these  barbarians  thus  destrcymg  their  work  ? 
Since  chance  has  brought  me  hither,  I  wUl  oppose  this  act  oj  Vandahsm  " 
And  having  learned  what  might  be  the  worth  of  the  lead,  he  gave  the 
flay  piasters  they  asked,  and  the  column  became  our  property.  It  waa 
of  the  most  beautiful  red  granite,  spotted  with  blue  and  black,  sixty-two 
feet  in  length,  and  ten  in  circumference." 

At  length  the  approach  of  the  Bedouins  was  announced,  and  one  day 
a  party  of  eleven  horsemen  arrived,  among  whom  was  the  Era.r  Nasser, 
the  eldest  son  of  Mahenna,  chief  of  the  tribe  of  El  Hassnnee.    M.  Las- 
caris  was  overjoyed,  and  on  being  presented  to  the  enur,  received  ^^ur- 
anccs  of  protection  from  all  harm.    He  then  mvited  N^ser  to  eat  with 
him,  as  the  Bedoums  regard  it  an  inviolable  pledge  of  fidehty  to  break 
bread  with  any  one.    The  dinner  appeared  excellent,  and  after  coffee 
when  they  began  to  speak  of  different  things,  M.  Lascans  related  to 
Nasser  the  adventure  with  six  horsemen  of  his  tnbe.    The  em™hed 
to  punish  them  and  restore  the  money,  but  the  travelers  mtreated  hun 
not  to  do  so.    They  would  have  set  out  with  him  next  day,  but  he  m- 
duced  them  to  await  the  arrival  of  his  father,  who  was  eight  days'  jour- 
ney  distant.    He  promised  to  send  them  an  escort  and  camels  to  carry 

*  "EiMS,^d?ys  afterward  three  men  came  with  the  camels,  and  a  letter 
from  Mehanna  el  Fadel,  bearing  his  welcome  and  the  promise  of  his  pro- 
tection Their  preparations  were  soon  made,  and  early  next  mornu^g 
they  loft  Palmyra.  They  met  a  great  many  Bedouins,  who  questioned 
their  conductors,  and  passed  on.  After  a  march  of  ten  houra,  the  plam 
appeared  covered  with  tents,  and  they  reached  the  camp  of  Mehann^ 
They  entered  the  tent  of  the  emu-,  who  received  them  with  proofi  of 


)N. 


m  aro  plundering 
nniblo  fur  all  that 
this  accordmg  to 
ting  Christians  to 
Mt'hanna  el  Fadel, 
vnts  were  in  haste, 
lis  word,  and  tho 
1  country.  At  his 
ravelers  what  they 
I  dilKculty,  M.  Las- 
ind,  and  arrived  at 

s  for  sale,  until  M. 

temples  and  mag- 
»h,  "  wo  saw  many 
ful  granite  column. 
,  to  fall,  in  order  to 
rahim,  fullofindig- 
10  foundeis  of  Pal- 
roying  their  work  ? 

act  of  Vandalism." 
10  lead,  he  gave  the 
r  property.  It  was 
ind  black,  sixty-two 

(unccd,  and  one  day 
as  the  Emir  Nasser, 
Hassnnee.  M.  Las- 
cmir,  received  assur- 
l  Nasser  to  eat  with 

of  fidelity  to  break 
nt,  and  after  coffee, 
,  Lascaris  related  to 
2.  The  emir  wished 
ivelers  intreated  him 

next  day,  but  he  in- 
vas  eight  days'  jour- 

and  camels  to  carry 

)  camels,  and  a  letter 
le  promise  of  his  pro- 
early  next  momir<g 
uins,  who  questioned 
F  ten  hours,  the  plain 
B  camp  of  Mehanna. 
them  with  proofi  of 


■-». 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0     Jfl^  I 


I.I 


125 


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2.2 

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im 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


V 


■'■<'"il^£ 


MARCH    OF    A    BEDOUIN    TRIBE. 


443 


the  highest  consideration.  Next  day  he  had  a  camel  killed  to  regale 
them,  a  mark  of  high  respect,  as  the  Bedouins  measure  the  importance 
of  the  stranger  by  the  animal  they  kill  to  welcome  him. 

After  enjoying  their  hospitality  for  three  days,  the  travelers  opened 
their  bales,  and  sold  many  articles,  upon  most  of  which  they  lost  more 
or  less.  Fatallah  did  not  understand  this  mode  of  dealing,  but  M.  Las- 
caris  remmded  him  of  their  conditions,  and  he  continued  to  sell  accord- 
ing to  the  wishes  of  his  patron. 

One  day  they  saw  fifty  well-armed  horsemen  arrive,  and  hold  a  long 
consultation  with  Nasser  and  his  cousin,  Shekh  Zamel.  Fatallah  carried 
a  present  to  the  wife  of  Nasser  and  learned  that  her  husband  had  many 
enemies  among  the  Bedouins,  who  hated  him  for  humbling  the  national 
pride,  and  exalting  the  power  of  the  Turks,  with  whom  he  sought  al- 
liance. The  object  of  the  meeting  was  to  concert  a  plan  of  attack ;  the 
next  day  they  would  assail  the  tribe  El  Daffir,  take  their  flocks,  and  do 
them  all  the  mischief  possible.  This  intelligence  was  perplexing  to  M. 
Lascaris,  who,  while  endeavoring  to  attach  himself  to  a  tribe  hostile  to 
the  Osmanlis,  found  himself  with  a  chief  allied  to  them.  Next  morning, 
a  party  of  three  hundred  marched  out ;  three  days  afterward,  they  made 
their  triumphal  entry,  preceded  by  one  hundred  and  eighty  camels,  taken 
from  the  enemy.  Some  time  afterward,  Nasser  received  from  Soliman, 
the  pasha  of  Acre  and  Damascus,  a  message,  engaging  him  to  come  and 
receive  the  command  of  the  desert,  with  the  title  of  Prince  of  the  Be- 
douins.   Overjoyed,  he  departed  for  Damascus  with  ten  horsemen. 

Mehanna  having  ordered  the  departure  of  the  tribe,  the  next  morn- 
ing by  sur.rise  not  a  smgle  tent  was  standing ;  all  was  folded  up  and 
loaded,  and  the  departure  began  in  the  greatest  order.  Twenty  chosen 
horsemen  formed  the  advance  guard ;  then  came  the  camels  with  their 
loads,  and  the  flocks ;  then  the  armed  men,  mounted ;  after  these  the 
women,  those  of  the  chiefs  in  rich  hmodahs  ;  the  camels  loaded  with 
baggage  and  provisions  were  behind.  The  line  was  closed  by  the  Emir 
Mehanna,  mounted  on  a  dromedary,  and  surrounded  by  his  slaves,  the 
rest  of  the  soldiers,  and  the  servants,  on  foot.  It  was  truly  wonderful 
to  witness  the  order  and  celerity  with  which  the  departure  of  eight  or 
nine  thousand  persons  was  effected.  M.  Lascaris  and  Fatallah  were  on 
horseback,  sometimes  ahead,  and  sometimes  by  the  side  of  Mehanna. 
When  they  halted,  the  Bedouins  sprang  to  the  ground,  fixed  their  lances, 
and  fastened  their  horses  to  them;  the  women  ran  on  all  sides,  and 
pitched  their  tents  near  their  husbands'  horses ;  and  thus,  as  if  by  en- 
chantment,  they  found  themselves  in  the  midst  of  a  large  city. 

On  the  fourth  day,  they  were  attacked  by  the  tribe  of  Daflir,  who 
sought  to  revenge  themselves  on  Nasser,  and  succeeded  in  carrying  off 
some  of  the  flocks.  The  Bedouins  murmured,  attributing  their  mishap 
to  the  caprice  and  vanity  of  Nasser.  Mehanna  sent  a  courier  to  his  son, 
who  immediately  returned  with  an  oflicer  of  the  pasha,  and  a  letter 
threatemng  vengeance  on  aU  who  should  exhibit  a  robeUious  spirit. 


444 


DB   LASCARIS'S    SECRET   MISSION. 


Nasser  made  such  display  of  his  new  dignity  that  he  still  further  offended 
the  Bedouins.  A  young  chief  of  a  neighboring  tribe,  who  had  listened 
with  impatience  to  his  vauntuigs,  rose  hastily,  and  told  him  that  the  Be- 
douins detested  him,  and  threatened  to  depart  from  Bagdad  and  join 
Ebn  Chahllan,  the  Drayhy,  or  Destroyer  of  the  Turks.  On  the  foUow- 
inf'  day,  he  actually  set  out  with  his  tribe  for  the  country  of  Geziri,  and 
a  combination  against  Nasser  was  talked  of  in  all  quarters.  Mehanna 
remonstrated  with  his  son,  but  the  latter  still  endeavored  to  tranquilize 
him.  The  Bedouins  meanwhile  took  sides  with  one  or  the  other,  the 
greater  part,  however,  with  the  father.  Mehanna  was  highly  esteemed 
among  the  Bedouins ;  his  influence  arose  from  his  noble  and  generous 
heart,  and  from  being  the  cliief  of  a  very  ancient  and  numerous  family. 

In  October,  they  were  in  the  neighborhood  of  Aleppo,  and  Fatallah 
rejoiced  to  find  himself  so  near  home,  but  his  contract  Avas  such  that  he 
could  not  communicate  with  his  friends.     M.  Lascaris  wished  to  spend 
the  \s'inter  at  Damascus,  and  with  great  difficulty  they  succeeded  m 
reaching  Corietain,  where  they  were  cordially  received  by  their  friends. 
They  reported  an  advantageous  speculation,  while  in  reality,  between 
presents  and  horses,  they  had  nothing  left  but  some  goods  they  had  de- 
posited at  this  place.    After  a  long  delay,  they  finally  departed  on  their 
journey,  as  winter  was  setting  in.    M.  Lascaris  rode  a  miserable  horse, 
and  Fatallah  a  donkey,  and  they  proceeded  with  four  men  of  the  village 
as  guides.    In  a  defile  between  two  mountains  they  were  attacked  by 
twenty  Bedouin  horsemen,  who  stripped  them  of  nearly  all  their  cloth- 
ing, leaving  them  their  sorry  beasts,  Avhich  were  hardly  able  to  walk. 
"Night  came  on,"  says  Fatallah,  " and  the  cold  was  excessive,  and  de- 
prived us  of  the  use  of  speech.     Our  eyes  were  red,  our  skin  blue ;  at 
the  end  of  some  time  I  fell  to  the  ground,  fainting  and  frozen.    Shekh 
Ibrahim,  in  despair,  made  gesticulations  to  the  guides,  but  was  unable 
to  speak.    One  of  them,  a  Syrian  Christian,  took  pity  upon  me  and  the 
grief  of  Shekh  Ibraliim ;  he  threw  down  his  horse,  which  was  also  half 
dead  with  cold  and  fotigue,  killed  it,  opened  the  belly,  and  placed  me, 
Anthout  consciousness  in  the  skin,  with  only  my  head  out.    At  the  end  of 
half  an  hour,  I  regained  my  senses,  quite  astonished  at  finding  myself 
alive  again,  and  in  so  strange  a  position.     Warmth  restored  my  speech ; 
and  I  earnestly  thanked  Shekh  Ibrahim  and  the  good  Arab.    I  took  cour- 
a;re  and  found  strength  to  proceed.    A  little  after,  our  guides  cried  out, 
'Tlere's  the  village!'  and  we  entered  the  first  house.    It  belonged  to  a 
farrier,  named  Hanna  el  Bitar.    He  showed  a  lively  sympathy  in  our 
situation,  set  about  covering  us  both  with  camel-dung,  and  gave  us  a 
little  wine— a  few  drops  at  a  time ;  having  thus  restored  our  strength 
.and  warmth,  he  withdrew  us  from  our  dunghill,  put  us  to  bed,  and  made 
us  take  some  good  soup.    After  a  sleep,  which  was  indispensable,  we 
borrowed  two  hundred  piasters  to  pay  our  guides  and  carry  us  to  Damas- 
cus, which  we  reached  the  23d  of  December,  1810." 

One  day,  in  the  bazaar,  a  Bedouin,  with  whom  they  had  broken  bread 


further  offended 
who  had  listened 
him  that  the  Be- 
Bagdad  and  join 
,  On  the  foUow- 
try  of  Geziri,  and 
arters.  Mchanna 
ired  to  tranquilize 
or  the  other,  the 
s  highly  esteemed 
ble  and  generous 
lumerous  family, 
ppo,  and  Fatallah 
was  such  that  he 
i  wished  to  spend 
they  succeeded  in 
i  by  their  friends. 
I  reality,  between 
;oodti  they  had  de- 
•  departed  on  their 
a  miserable  horse, 
men  of  the  village 
were  attacked  by 
arly  all  their  cloth- 
•dly  able  to  walk, 

excessive,  and  de- 

our  skin  blue;  at 
nd  frozen.  Shekh 
es,  but  was  unable 
y  xipon  me  and  the 
vhich  was  also  half 

y,  and  placed  me, 
lut.    At  the  end  of 

at  finding  myself 
istored  my  speech ; 
\rab.  I  took  cour- 
ir  guides  cried  out. 
It  belonged  to  a 
y  sympathy  in  our 
mg,  and  gave  us  a 
tored  our  strength 
.8  to  bed,  and  made 
indispensable,  we 

carry  «s  to  Damas- 

y  had  broken  bread 


THE    DUAYHY,    OR    DE3TR0TKR. 


445 


in  Nuarat  el  Nahaman,  came  to  them,  and  after  renewing  their  friend- 
ship, he  invited  them  to  visit  the  tribe  of  Waled  Ali,  to  which  he  be- 
longed, whose  chieftain,  Douhi,  was  known  to  them.  Th.^y  consented, 
and  at  the  time  agreed  upon,  he  arrived  with  camels  and  guides,  with 
which  llioy  set  out  on  the  15th  of  March,  1811.  The  tribe  Avas  at  Misa- 
rib,  three  days  from  Damascus,  and  after  passing  the  nights  in  the  open 
air,  they  were  amid  the  tenta  of  Waled  Ali  by  sunset  on  the  third 
day.  The  tents,  surrounded  by  horses,  camels,  goats,  and  sheep,  formed 
a  i)leasing  scene.  The  Emir  Douhi  received  them  with  marked  distinc- 
tion, and  made  them  sup  with  him.  He  commanded  five  thousand  tents, 
and  three  tribes,  which  were  joined  to  his. 

M.  Lascaris  was  anxious  to  visit  the  drayhj',  and  had  instructed 
Fatallah  to  gain  every  information  respecting  his  character,  mode  of  life, 
and  the  access  to  him,  directing  him  at  the  same  time  to  study  the  man- 
ners and  customs  of  the  Bedouins,  to  adopt  their  dress  and  imitate  their 
usages,  so  as  to  pass  absolutely  for  one  of  them,  as  he  should  depend  on 
him  to  make  the  journey  thither.  For  this  purpose  he  prolonged  their 
stay,  and  visited  the  three  tributary  shekhs  of  the  Emir  Douhi,  direct- 
ing Fatallah  to  take  exact  notes  of  all  he  saw  and  learned.  Of  these 
peoi)le  Fatallah  observes : 

"  The  numerous  tribes  are  often  obliged  to  divide  themselves  into 
detachments  of  from  two  hundred  to  five  hundred  tents,  and  to  occupy 
a  large  space,  in  order  to  procure  water  and  pasturage  for  the!"  flocks. 
We  went  successively  through  their  encampments,  until  we  could  find 
means  to  transport  ourselves  to  the  drayhy,  who  was  at  war  with  the 
tribes  of  the  territory  of  Damascus.  We  were  universally  well  received. 
In  one  tribe  it  waa  a  poor  widow  who  showed  us  hospitality.  In  order 
to  regale  us,  she  killed  her  last  sheep  and  borrowed  bread.  She  in- 
formed us  that  her  husband  and  her  three  sons  had  been  killed  in  the 
war  against  the  Wahabees,  a  formidable  tribe  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Mecca.  Expressing  our  astonishment  that  she  should  rob  herself  on 
our  account,  '  He  that  enters  the  house  of  the  living,'  said  she,  '  and  does 
not  eat,  it  is  as  though  he  were  visiting  the  dead.'  " 

At  length  the  drayuy  arrived  in  Mesopotamia,  and  they  engaged  a 
Bedouin  of  a  neutral  tribe  to  take  them  to  him,  but  when  they  went  to 
Corietain  for  their  goods,  they  heard  of  a  victory  gmned  by  a  son  of  the 
drayhy  over  Nasser,  which  gave  renewed  violence  to  the  war.  The 
tribe  of  Salkeh,  to  which  their  guide  belonged,  had  been  attacked  by 
the  drayhy,  and  no  one  dared  to  cross  the  desert.  M.  Lascaris  ;vas  in 
despair ;  in  his  exasperation  he  even  found  fault  with  Fatallah.  The 
latter  then  requested  an  understandmg  in  their  relations,  declsiring  it 
madness  to  attempt  this  journey  for  the  purpose  of  trading,  but  adding 
that  if  M.  Lascaris  had  other  motives  adequate  to  the  exposure  of  life, 
he  must  let  him  know  them,  and  he  would  find  liim  ready  to  sacrifice 
himself  in  his  service.    M.  Lascaris  then  told  him  that  tUa  commeroe 


.f1 


■ffit*r''-Sf-'  l—f-^ 


446 


DE    LASOABIS'S    SECRET    MISSION. 


was  merely  a  pretext  to  conceal  a  mission  with  which  he  was  charged 
from  Paris.    These  were  his  instructions : 

"1.  To  set  out  from  Paris  to  Aleppo. 

"  2,  To  find  a  zealous  Arab,  and  to  attach  him  to  me  as  interpreter. 

"  3.  To  acquire  a  knowledge  of  the  language. 

"  4.  To  go  to  Palmyra. 

"  5.  To  penetrate  among  the  Bedouins. 

"  6.  To  become  acquabted  with  all  the  chiefs,  and  to  gam  their 
friendship. 

"  7.  To  unite  them  together  in  the  same  cause. 

"  8.  To  induce  them  to  break  off  all  alliance  with  the  Osmanlis. 

"  9.  To  get  acquainted  with  the  whole  desert,  the  halting-places,  and 
where  water  and  pasturage  are  to  be  found,  as  far  even  as  the  frontiers 
of  India. 

"  10.  To  return  to  Europe,  safe  and  sound,  aflcr  having  accomplished 
my  mission." 

Fatallah  resolved  to  go  on  foot  to  the  drayhy.  He  went  to  Wardi, 
the  man  who  had  saved  him  from  perishing  on  the  way  to  Damascus. 
This  man  first  tried  to  dissuade  Fatallah  from  the  rash  undertaking,  but 
afterward  engaged  to  go  with  him  as  a  guide. 

"  It  was  essential,"  says  Fatallah,  "  that  I  should  be  covered  with 
rags,  in  order  not  to  excite  suspicion  or  cupidity  if  we  were  discovered 
on  the  road.  This  was  my  costume  for  the  journey :  a  coarse  cotton 
shirt  pieced ;  a  dirty  torn  gombaz ;  an  old  caffie,  with  a  bit  of  linen, 
once  white,  for  a  turban  ;  a  sheep-skin  cloak  with  half  the  wool  off,  and 
shoes  mended  to  the  weight  of  four  pounds :  besides  these,  a  leather 
belt,  from  which  hung  a  knife  worth  two  paras,  a  steel,  a  little  tobacco 
in  an  old  bag,  and  a  pipe.  I  blackened  my  eyes  and  dirtied  my  face, 
and  then  presented  myself  to  Shekh  Ibrahim  to  take  my  leave.  On  see- 
ing me,  he  shed  tears.  '  May  God,'  said  he,  '  give  you  strength  enough 
to  accomplish  your  generous  design !  I  shall  owe  every  thing  to  your 
perseverance.  May  the  Almighty  be  with  you  and  preserve  you  from 
all  danger !  may  he  blind  the  wicked,  and  bring  you  back  that  I  may 
reward  you  !'  I  could  hardly  refrain  from  tears  in  my  turn.  At  last, 
however,  the  conversation  becoming  more  cheerful,  Shekh  Ibrahim  said, 
smilingly,  that  if  I  were  to  go  to  Paris  in  this  costume,  I  should  get 
much  money  by  showing  myself.  We  supped ;  and  at  sunset  we  de- 
parted. I  walked  without  ftitigue  till  midnight ;  but  then  my  feet  began 
to  swell.  My  shoes  hurt  me,  and  I  took  them  off;  the  thorns  of  the 
plants  the  camels  browse  on  pricked  me,  and  the  small  stones  wounded 
me.  I  tried  to  pu  ?  i  my  shoes ;  and  in  continual  suffering  I  walked  on 
till  morning.  A  little  grotto  gave  us  shelter  for  the  day.  I  wrapped 
my  feet  in  a  piece  of  my  cloak  that  I  tore  off,  and  slept  without  having 
strength  to  take  any  nourishment." 

At  sunrise,  on  the  seventh  day,  they  reached  the  Euphrates ;  some 
hospitable  Bedouins  took  them  into  their  tents,  where  for  the  first  time 


■t.  .T*'  ."'"'■    imtam: 


«/«'i*«>c.'*  ;'xH'^  ,-./<w.u 


ON. 

ich  he  was  charged 

me  as  interpreter, 
and  to  goin  their 


the  Osmanlis. 

I  halting-places,  and 

en  as  the  frontiers 

aving  accomplished 

Ic  went  to  Wardi, 
3  way  to  Damascus. 
9h  undertaking,  but 

Id  be  covered  with 
we  were  discovered 
jy:  a  coarse  cotton 
vith  a  bit  of  linen, 
ilf  the  wool  off,  and 
des  these,  a  leather 
eel,  a  little  tobacco 
id  dirtied  my  face, 
my  leave.    On  see- 
ou  strength  enough 
very  thing  to  your 
preserve  you  from 
u  back  that  I  may 
my  turn.    At  last, 
Shekh  Ibrahim  said, 
Btume,  I  should  get 
at  sunset  we  de- 
then  my  feet  began 
the  thorns  of  the 
lall  stones  wounded 
ufferinglwalkedon 
le  day.    I  wrapped 
ept  without  having 

e  Euphrates;  some 
•e  for  the  first  time 


MARCH    OF   TIIK    DRAYHT. 


447 


they  made  a  hearty  meal.  They  learned  that  the  drayhy  was  throe 
days  distant,  and  that  it  was  his  intention  to  annihilate  Mohanna  and 
Nasser,  and  return  to  his  desert  near  Bassora  and  Bagdad.  Fatallah 
therefore  took  a  guide  and  set  forward.  lie  represented  himself  as  a 
merchant  of  Aleppo,  having  a  correspondent  at  Bagdad  who  owed  him 
twenty-five  thousand  piasters,  and  that  ui  consequence  of  the  war  he 
was  obliged  to  risk  the  journey  himself,  and  put  himself  under  the  pro- 
tection of  the  drayhy.  The  emir  received  him  politely  and  welcomed 
him,  but,  according  to  custom,  could  not  speak  of  business  until  after 
three  days  devoted  to  hospitality  and  repose.  The  emir  happened  to 
be  in  want  of  a  secretary,  and  Fatallah,  who  offered  to  assist  him  for 
the  moment,  so  gained  his  confidenoo  by  his  information  respecting  the 
tribes  he  had  vijitod,  that  the  emir  desired  him  to  stay.  Fatallah 
seemed  to  yield,  and  soon  persuaded  the  emir  to  cross  the  Euphrates  in 
order  to  gain  over  the  tribes  by  his  presence,  and  strike  terror  to  his 
enemies.  As  this  was  his  first  march  into  Mesopotamia,  the  advice  and 
information  of  Fatallah  was  a  great  resource  to  him. 

"  The  departure,"  says  Fatallah,  "  was  superb  to  witness.  The 
horsemen  before,  on  horses  of  high  pedigree  ;  women  on  howdahs  mag- 
nificently draped,  and  on  dromedaries,  auiToundcd  by  negro  slaves. 
Men,  loaded  with  provisions,  were  running  throughout  the  caravan, 
calling  out :  '  Who  is  hungry  ?'  and  distributing  bread,  dates,  etc. 
Every  three  hours  a  halt  was  made,  to  take  coffee ;  and  at  night  the 
tents  were  raised  as  if  by  enchantment.  Wo  followed  the  banks  of  the 
Euphrates,  whose  clear  waters  gleamed  like  silver :  I  myself  was  mounted 
on  a  mare  of  pure  blood ;  and  the  Avhole  journey  appeared  like  a  tri- 
umphal march,  presenting  a  strong  contrast  with  my  former  passage  over 
the  same  country,  in  my  rags  and  with  my  tortured  feet." 

They  soon  encamped  on  the  Damascus  territory,  and  kept  advancing 
westward.  The  emir  received  a  threatening  letter  from  Mehanna,  and 
replied  in  terms  of  defiance.  By  Fatallah's  advice  he  sent  word  to  the 
neighboring  shekhs  that  he  had  come  to  free  them  from  the  yoke  of  the 
Osmanlis.  Seven  out  of  ten  declared  for  him  and  came  and  encamped 
around  him.  Hearing  that  Mehanna  had  sent  to  the  Turks  for  assist- 
ance, the  drayhy  immediately  marched  out  his  forces  to  attack  him, 
and  gained  a  brilliant  victory.  In  a  few  days  Mehanna  returned  with 
the  Turks,  but  in  their  encounters  the  advantage  was  on  the  side  of  the 
drayhy,  and  Nasser  fell  in  an  engagement  between  his  troops  and  those 
commanded  by  Zaher,  the  son  of  the  drayhy. 

As  they  were  now  very  near  Corietain,  Fatallah  proposed  to  go  for 
Shekh  Ibrahim,  whom  he  had  often  spoken  of  as  his  master  and  superior 
in  wisdom,  when  the  emir  had  praised  him  for  his  sage  counsels.  The 
drayhy  accepted  the  offer  with  eagerness,  and  gave  Fatallah  a  strong 
escort,  Fatallah  was  overjoyed  at  again  seeing  M.  Lascaria,  and  spent 
the  night  in  relating  all  that  had  passed.     Next  day  they  returned  to 


448 


DB    LASOARIS'S    SECRET    MISSION. 


the  camp,  where  Shekh  Ibrahim  was  received  with  the  highest  distmction 
by  the  emir. 

Soon  afterward  an  attack  of  the  Wahabecs  cost  the  drayhy  some 
horsemen  and  much  cattle.  Next  day  M.  Lascaris  told  Fatallali  that 
the  drayhy  was  just  the  man  he  wanted,  but  that  it  was  indisper.->able  he 
should  become  the  chief  of  all  the  Bedouins  from  Aleppo  to  the  frontier 
of  India,  and  further  that  he  looked  to  Fatallah  to  arrange  the  matter, 
by  friendship,  by  threats,  or  by  artifice.  Fatallah  set  about  the  task 
imposed  upon  him  by  first  endeavoring  to  inspire  the  Bedouins  with  a 
high  idea  of  Shekh  Ibrahim ;  to  this  end  some  chemical  experiments 
were  employed,  .and  prophecies  were  conveyed  by  Fatallah  to  the 
drayhy,  concerning  his  future  greatness.  The  people  began  to  regard 
Shekh  Ibrahim  as  a  superior  being,  and  the  drayhy  made  him  and  Fa- 
tallah cat  with  his  wife  and  daughters-in-law,  in  the  interior  of  their  tent, 
instead  of  eating  with  strangers  in  the  rabha,  or  outer  apartment. 

Meanwhile  a  peddler  who  was  supplanted  by  the  strangers,  began  to 
calumniate  them  before  the  Bedouins,  beginning  with  the  women,  whom 
he  persuaded  that  they  were  magicians,  who  wished  to  transport  their 
daughters  to  a  far  country,  and  throw  a  spell  around  the  women  that 
they  might  have  no  more  children ;  that  thus  the  race  of  Bedouins  would 
become  extinct  and  the  Frank  conquerors  take  possession  of  the  coun- 
try. They  soon  felt  the  effects  of  this ;  the  girls  fled  at  their  approach, 
the  women  called  them  opprobrious  names,  the  elderly  ones  threatened 
them.  At  length  these  intrigues  of  Absi  the  trader  were  discovered, 
and  the  drayhy  would  have  put  him  to  death,  but  by  the  intercessions 
of  Shekh  Ibrahim  and  Abdallah  he  was  only  banished  from  the  tribe. 
He  now  spread  Avider  his  aspersions,  and  even  went  to  Damascus  with 
the  intelligence  that  two  Frank  spies  had  gained  the  confidence  of  the 
drayhy.  From  his  aspersions  Solyman  Pasha  sent  an  officer  to  the 
drayhy  with  a  threatening  letter  ordering  him  to  give  up  the  two  in- 
fidels to  his  officer,  that  they  might  be  taken  in  chains  to  Damascus,  and 
publicly  executed.  The  drayhy  was  highly  incensed,  but  Fatallah  took 
him  aside  and  begged  permission  to  settle  the  affair.  He  knew  that 
M.  Lascaris  had  married  a  Georgian  in  Egypt,  who  proved  to  be  a  cousin 
of  Solyman  Pasha,  and  that  subsequently  at  Acre  his  wife  had  made 
known  her  relationship  to  the  pasha,  and  was  loaded  by  him  with  kind- 
ness and  presents,  as  well  as  her  husband.  M.  Lascaris  therefore  wrote 
to  Solyman  Pasha,  and  the  officer  returned  in  two  days  with  a  most 
friendly  answer,  and  another  to  the  drayhy,  recommending  his  well- 
beloved  friend,  the  great  Shekh  Ibrahim. 

The  drayhy  had  been  surnamed  the  exterminator  of  the  Turks,  from 
a  grand  victory,  gained  with  great  slaughter  over  the  Osmanlis  com- 
manded by  the  pasha  of  Bagdad.  From  this  and  many  other  achieve- 
ments which  M.  Lascaris  heard  of  him,  he  devoted  himself  more  and 
more  to  the  project  of  makmg  him  master  of  all  the  other  tribes.  The 
Wahabees  were  formidable  adversaries,  who  soon  afterward  fell  upon 


ION. 

0  highest  distinction 

>st  the  tlrayhy  some 
i  told  Fatallah  that 
was  indispcp.iable  he 
leppo  to  the  frontier 
»  arrange  the  matter, 
set  about  the  task 
the  Bedouins  with  a 
ihemical  experiments 
by  Fatallah  to  the 
ople  began  to  regard 
f  made  him  and  Far 
Ulterior  of  their  tent, 
iter  apartment, 
le  strangers,  began  to 
ith  the  women,  whom 
ed  to  transport  their 
)und  the  women  that 
ice  of  Bedouins  would 
ossession  of  the  coun- 
fled  at  their  approach, 
Iderly  ones  threatened 
•ader  were  discovered, 
k  by  the  intercessions 
aished  from  the  tribe. 
3nt  to  Damascus  with 
the  confidence  of  the 
lent  an  officer  to  the 
to  give  up  the  two  in- 
tuns  to  Damascus,  and 
sed,  but  Fatallah  took 
aflfair.    He  knew  that 
proved  to  be  a  cousin 
re  his  wife  had  made 
ed  by  him  with  kind- 
scaris  therefore  wrote 
two  days  with  a  most 
commending  his  well- 

itor  of  the  Turks,  from 
er  the  Osmanlis  com- 
_  many  other  achieve- 
ted  himself  more  and 
the  other  tribes.  The 
n  afterward  fell  upon 


RELIGION    OP    THE    BEDOUINS. 


449 


tlic  tribo  Willed  Ali,  and  spread  over  tlio  desert  to  subdue  the  Ik'douins. 
Many  tribes,  alarmed,  were  about  to  siibniit,  when  M.  Lascaris  per- 
Hiiaded  tlu>  drayhy  to  take  the  field  and  declare  himself  the  protector  of 
the  oppressed. 

"  Tlie  Wahabccs  wore  commanded  by  a  doughty  negro,  a  half-savage, 
whose  name  W!i9  Abu-Nocta.  When  he  prepares  for  battle,  ho  takes  off 
his  turban  and  boots,  draws  up  his  sleeves  to  his  shoulders,  and  leaves 
his  body  almost  naked,  which  is  of  prodigious  size  and  muscular  strength. 
His  head  and  chin,  never  being  shaved,  are  overshatlowed  by  a  bushy 
head  of  hair  and  black  beard,  which  cover  his  entire  face,  his  eyes  gleam- 
ing beneath  the  shade.  His  whole  body,  too,  is  hairy,  and  affords  a 
sight  as  strange  as  it  is  frightful.  The  drayhy  came  up  to  him  three 
days  from  Palmyra,  at  a  spot  called  Heroualma.  The  battle  was  most 
obstinate  on  both  sides,  but  ended  in  tho  flight  of  Abu-Nocta,  who  re- 
moved to  the  country  of  Nedjid,  leaving  two  hundred  slain  on  the  field 
of  battle.  The  drayhy  searched  out  among  the  spoils  all  that  had  been 
taken  from  the  tribe  Waled  Ali,  and  restored  it.  This  act  of  generosity 
Ktill  further  attached  to  him  the  affection  of  tho  other  tribes,  Avho  were 
coming  daily  to  put  themselves  under  his  protection.  Tho  report  of 
this  victory  gained  over  the  terrible  Abu-Nocta  was  disseminated  every- 
where. Solyman  Pasha  sent  tho  conqueror  a  pelisse  of  honor,  and  a 
magnificent  saber,  with  his  congratulations.  Soon  after  this  exploit  we 
encamped  on  tho  frontiers  of  Horan. 

"  One  day,  a  Turkish  moUah  arrived  at  tho  drayhy's ;  he  wore  tho 
large  green  turban  that  distinguishes  the  descendants  of  Mohammed,  a 
white  flowing  robe,  his  eyes  blackened,  and  an  enormous  beard ;  ho 
wore  also  several  rows  of  chaplets,  and  an  inkstand  in  tho  form  of  a 
dagger  at  his  belt.  He  rode  on  an  ass,  and  carried  in  his  hand  an  arrow. 
He  Avas  come  to  instill  his  fanaticism  into  the  Bedouins,  and  excite  in 
them  a  great  zeal  for  the  religion  of  the  Prophet,  in  order  to  attach 
them  to  the  cause  of  the  Turks.  Tho  Bedouins  are  of  great  simplicity 
of  character,  and  remarkable  for  their  frankness.  They  do  not  under- 
stand differences  of  religion,  and  do  not  willingly  allow  them  to  bo 
spoken  of.  They  are  deists ;  they  invoke  the  protection  of  God  in  all 
the  events  of  life,  and  refer  to  Him  their  success  or  their  failures  with 
humble  resignation ;  but  they  have  no  ceremonies  or  obligatory  ritual, 
and  make  no  distinction  between  the  sects  of  Omar  and  of  Ali,  which 
divide  the  East.  ITiey  never  inquired  what  was  our  religion.  We  told 
them  that  we  were  Christians ;  their  answer  was,  '  All  men  are  equal  in 
the  sight  of  God,  and  are  His  creatures ;  we  have  no  right  to  inquire 
what  is  the  creed  of  other  men.' " 

Fatallah,  after  visiting  Aleppo  to  procure  goods  and  supplies,  re- 
joined the  tribe  on  the  banks  of  the  Euphrates.  The  chiefs  of  Bagdad 
and  Bassora  came  daily  to  congratulate  the  drayhy  on  his  victory,  and 
to  make  acquaintance  with  Shekh  Ibrahim,  whose  renown  had  reached 
them.    They  felt  indebted  to  him  for  having  counseled  the  war  against 

29 


r 


w 


tm 


450 


DE    LASCARIS'S    8KCUKT    MISSION. 


tlio  Walifibops,  whoso  rapacity  had  become  intolerable;  whose  king, 
Ebn  Sihond,  took  the  tenth  of  their  flocks  and  tlieir  money,  and  exacted 
ablutions  and  prayers  five  times  a-day,  on  pain  of  death.  A  treaty  was 
concluded  in  which  the  chiefs  bonnd  themselves  to  wage  a  war  of  ex- 
termination against  the  Wahabees,  to  obey  the  great  dray'.y,  Ebn 
Chahllan,  and  to  listen  to  no  calumnies  against  Shekh  Ibrahim  and  Ab- 
dallah.  Couriers  were  sent  to  other  tribes,  and  the  chiefs  mostly  signed 
the  treaty  willingly;  while  many  who  at  first  objected  were  prevailed 
upon  by  Fatallah,  who  became  an  efficient  diplomatist  of  the  drayhy.  ^ 

After  some  days  spent  in  festivities  they  passed  an  arm  of  the  Eu- 
phrates and  encamped  near  the  tribo  of  El  Cherarah,  celebrated  for  its 
couracre,  and  also  for  its  ignorance  and  obstuiacy.  A  friendship  existed 
bctwe°en  its  chief,  Abed,  and  the  minister  of  king  Ebn  Sihoud,  and  he 
accordingly  refused  to  join  the  alliance.  Sahcn  was  sent  out  with  five 
hundred  men  to  attack  him,  and  ho  returned  in  three  days  with  one 
hundred  and  forty  camels  and  other  booty  ;  a  few  men  were  killed,  but 
a  great  number  wounded  on  both  sides. 

Abed  collected  his  allies  and  the  war  daily  became  more  serious. 
The  encampment  of  the  drayhy  being  now  at  some  distance  from  the  river, 
the  women  wore  obliged  to  bring  water  on  camels,  and  on  the  third  day 
eight  hundred  of  the  camels  were  carried  ofl'  by  the  enemy.  To  avenge 
this  outra<'o  the  drayhy  advanced  rapidly  on  the  tribe  of  Cherarah,  and 
after  marching  a  day  and  a  half,  pitched  ton  thousand  tents  near  the 
camp  of  Abed.  A  bloody  battle  seemed  inevitable,  but  Fatallah  re- 
solved to  prevent  it  if  possible.  Knowing  that  the  Bedouins  hold 
women  in  great  respect,  and  consult  them  on  all  their  plans,  he  visited 
Arquia  the  wife  of  Shekh  Abed,  who  was  a  very  superior  woman,  and 
by  dint  of  compliments  and  presents  led  her  on  to  the  subject  of  the 
war,  and  incidentally  explained  to  her  the  advantages  of  an  alliance  with 
the  drayhy.  Meanwhile  her  husband  returned  to  the  camp  and  sent 
orders  to  Arquia  ignominiously  to  dismiss  the  spy,  as  the  rites  of  hospi- 
tality would  prevent  him  from  taking  vengeance.  She  haughtily  refused, 
and  in  the  end  prevaUed  on  Abed  to  listen  to  the  proposals  of  Fatallah. 
A  few  days  afterward  he  set  his  seal  to  the  treaty  and  exchanged  the 

camels  taken  in  the  war.  .     i    .  •  .      ^ 

Having  come  near  Bagdad,  M.  Lascaris  secretly  repaired  thither  to 
the  French  consul,  to  negotiate  for  a  largo  sum  of  money.  After  cross- 
incr  the  Tigris,  they  learned  that  a  sanguinary  war  was  raging  between 
the  Bedouins,  who  took  part  for  or  against  the  aUiance.  They  pushed 
on,  and  on  reaching  the  frontiers  of  Persia  met  a  messenger  from  the 
chief  Dehass,  who  demanded  the  assistance  of  the  drayhy  agamst  ene- 
mies'numbering  fifteen  thousand  tents.  They  were  six  days  distant 
from  this  tribe,  but  by  marching  day  and  night,  without  halting  to  eat, 
they  accomplished  the  distance  in  three  days.  The  greatest  fatigue  :ell  on 
the  women,  who  were  obliged  to  make  the  bread,  and  milk  the  camels,  with- 
out delaying  the  caravan.  Fatallah  thus  describes  this  ambulatory  kitchen : 


erablo;  whoso  king, 
money,  mid  exac-tod 
loath.    A  treaty  was 
;o  wage  a  Avar  of  ex- 
great  drayl.y,  Ebn 
•kh  Ibrahim  and  Ab- 
(  chiefs  mostly  Higned 
ected  were  prevailed 
tist  of  the  drayhy. 
id  an  arm  of  the  Ku- 
ah,  celebrated  for  its 
A  friendship  existed 
Ebn  Sihoud,  and  he 
iras  Bent  out  with  five 
three  days  with  one 
•  men  were  killed,  but 

became  more  serious, 
listance  from  the  river, 
,  and  on  the  third  day 
le  enemy.  To  avenge 
tribe  of  Cherarah,  and 
Dusand  tents  near  the 
able,  but  Fatallah  re- 
it  the  Bedouins  hold 

their  plans,  he  visited 
r  superior  woman,  and 

to  the  subject  of  the 
iges  of  an  alliance  with 

to  the  camp  and  sent 
jr,  as  the  rites  of  hospi- 

She  haughtily  refused, 
>  proposals  of  Fatallah. 
ity  and  exchanged  the 

jtly  repaired  thither  to 
f  money.  After  cross- 
'ar  was  raging  between 
alliance.  They  pushed 
a  messenger  from  the 
ho  drayhy  agjunst  ene- 
were  six  days  distant 
without  halting  to  eat, 
e  greatest  fatigue  "ell  on 
nd  milk  the  camels,  with- 
;bis  ambulatory  kitchen: 


INCURSION    INTO   PERSIA. 


451 


"  At  certain  regulated  distances  women  were  placed,  who  were  cm- 
ployed  without  relaxation.  The  first,  mounted  on  a  camel  laden  with 
wheat,  had  a  hand-mill  before  her.  The  com  once  groimd,  she  passed 
the  meal  to  her  neighbor,  whose  business  it  was  to  knead  it  with  water, 
carried  in  budgets  suspended  on  the  sides  of  lier  camel.  The  dough  wa« 
then  handed  to  a  third  woman,  who  baked  it  in  the  form  of  cakes  on  a 
chafing-dish,  with  charcoal  and  straw.  These  cakes  she  distributed  to 
the  division  of  warriors,  whose  food  she  was  charged  to  provide,  and 
who  came  every  minute  to  demand  their  portion. 

"  Other  women  walked  beside  the  camels  to  milk  them  into  cafiahn, 
— wcoden  pails,  containing  four  litres :  these  were  passed  from  hand  to 
hand  to  slake  the  thirst  of  the  troops.  The  camels  ate  as  they  marched, 
from  bags  hung  round  their  necks ;  and  when  their  riders  wished  to 
sleep,  they  lay  at  their  length  on  the  camels,  their  feet  secured  in  the 
Backs  to  protect  thcin  from  falling.  The  slow  and  measured  step  of  the 
camels  invites  to  sleep,  and  I  have  never  slept  better  than  on  this 
march." 

Next  day  a  letter  was  sent  to  the  five  hostile  chiefs,  but  their  reply 
being  warlike,  Fatallah  was  dispatched  with  presents.  With  but  a 
single  guide  ho  had  nearly  reached  the  tent  of  Mohdi  when  the  ad- 
vanced guard  rushed  upon  them,  stripped  them  of  every  thing,  and  left 
them  upon  the  burning  sand  in  chains.  Soon  afterward  the  perfidious 
Absi  approached  Fatallah,  spit  in  his  face,  and  insulted  liim  with  threat- 
ening words,  then  withdrew  to  txcite  the  Bedouins,  who  came,  men, 
women,  and  children,  to  overwhelm  him  with  outrages.  Toward  the 
evening  of  the  second  day  a  young  man  came  up  and  drove  away  the 
children,  and  afterward  brought  some  food.  In  the  night  he  loosed  liis 
fetters,  and  Fatallah  returned  to  his  friends.  The  battle  raged  with  fur}- 
two  days,  after  which  the  two  armies  lay  facing  each  other  inactive.  On 
the  third  day  of  truce  the  chief  Saker  came  with  a  single  attendant  to 
the  camp  of  the  drayhy,  to  ransom  his  son,  who  was  among  the  j)rison- 
crs.  His  presence  led  to  explanations,  the  calumnies  of  Absi  were  re- 
moved, and  he  ended  by  signing  the  treaty.  M.  Lascaris  told  him  their 
intention  was  to  open  a  passage  from  the  coasts  of  Syria  to  the  frontiers 
of  India,  to  an  army  of  a  hundred  thousand  men,  under  a  powerfiil  con- 
queror, who  would  relieve  the  Bedouins  from  the  yoke  of  the  Turks,  re- 
store to  them  the  sovereignty  of  the  country,  and  open  to  them  the  treas- 
ures of  India.  He  also  explained  that  the  religious  fanaticism  of  the 
king  of  the  Wahabees  would  counteract  their  plans,  as  his  love  of  do- 
minion, which  had  already  made  him  master  of  Yemen,  Mecca,  and  Me- 
dina, would  extend  his  pretensions  to  Syria.  Saker  entered  fully  into 
these  views,  and  promised  to  use  all  his  influence  with  the  other  tribes. 
It  was  agreed  that  he  should  be  chief  of  the  Bedouins  of  the  country 
they  were  now  in,  as  the  drayhy  was  of  those  of  Syria  and  Mesopota- 
mia. Next  day  he  sent  word  that  the  chiefs  Mohdi  and  Duakhry  no 
longer  opposed  their  projects. 


■ 


462 


DE    LASOARIS'S    SECRKT   MISSION. 


M.  Lascaris  deferred  the  project  of  pushing  on  to  the  frontiem  of  In- 
dia, until  the  following  year,  when  the  Sakcr  would  have  liad  time  to 
j)repare  the  tribes  to  second  him.  After  a  few  days  the  army  returned 
to  Mesopotamia.  As  they  continued  their  journey  they  learned  that  th« 
tribe  of  El  Calfa  was  encamped  at  Zualma,  and  Fatallah,  with  an  escort 
of  six  men  on  dromedaries,  was  sent  to  negotiate  with  Jasscm,  its  shekh. 
Tlioy  arrived  at  the  spot  in  three  days,  but  found  no  traces  of  the  camp. 
They  now  wandered  three  entire  days  without  finding  cither  water  or 
food,  and  Fatallah's  strength  was  failing,  when  his  companions  descried 
a  well,  and  with  a  cry,  darted  forward.  Fatallah  fell  to  the  ground  in 
despair,  and  his  companions  had  to  return  to  assist  him.  "  At  length," 
he  writes,  "  we  arrived  at  the  well,  and  one  of  them  leaning  over  the 
parapet,  drew  his  saber,  declaring  he  would  cut  off  the  head  of  the  first 
man  who  dared  approach.  '  Be  governed  by  my  experience,'  said  he, 
•or  you  will  all  perish.'  The  authoritative  tone  he  assumed  had  itg 
effect  upon  us,  and  we  all  obeyed  in  silence.  He  called  us  one  by  one, 
beginning  with  me,  and  made  us  first  lean  over  the  margin  of  the  well 
to  inhale  some  of  its  moisture.  Then  drawing  a  small  quantity  of  water, 
ho  wetted  our  lips  with  his  fingers ;  by  degrees  he  allowed  us  to  drink 
a  few  drops,  then  a  small  cup  full ;  and  having  pursued  this  rational 
treatment  for  three  hours,  he  siud,  '  You  may  now  drmk  without  risk ; 
but  if  you  had  not  listened  to  me,  you  would  have  been  all  dead  men ; 
for  drinking  without  precaution,  after  long  privation,  is  certain  destruc- 
tion.' We  passed  the  night  on  this  spot,  drinking  continually,  as  much 
for  nourishment  as  to  slake  our  thirst,  which,  notwithstanding  this  indulg- 
ence, seemed  insatiable." 

After  some  time  they  discovered  the  tribe  they  were  in  quest  of,  and 
being  kindly  received  by  Jassem,  Fatallah  accomplished  his  mission 
satisfactorily,  and  returned  to  the  drayhy.  Fatallah,  having  learned 
that  Mehaniia  el  Fadel  had  formed  a  coalition  against  the  drayhy,  per- 
suaded M.  Lascaris  to  consult  the  Pasha  Solyman,  at  Damascus.  They  re- 
paired thither  and  obtained  a  firman  requiring  the  governors  of  Horns  and 
Hama  to  respect  and  obey  the  Drayhy  Ebn  Chahllan,  supreme  chief  of 
the  Desert  of  Damascus.  Meanwhile  Mehanna  advanced  nearer,  certain 
of  the  co-operation  of  the  Osmanlis ;  but  the  drayhy  sent  the  pasha's  fir- 
man to  Horns  and  Hama,  and  the  two  governors  placed  their  troops  at 
his  disposal,  declaring  Mehanna  a  traitor  for  calling  on  the  Wahabees, 
the  most  inexorable  enemies  of  the  Turks.  Mehanna  made  preparations 
for  the  struggle,  and  sent  his  son  Fares  to  Homs  for  assistance  which 
had  previously  been  promised  by  the  governor,  but  the  latter  threw 
Fares  in  prison,  and  Mehanna,  dismayed,  found  himself  precipitated  from 
the  supreme  command,  and  obliged,  not  only  to  submit  to  the  drayhy, 
but  even  to  solicit  his  protection  against  the  Turks.  The  drayhy  at  first 
refused  to  accept  the  submission  of  Mehanna,  until  M.  Lascaris  inter- 
posed in  his  behalf.    Fatallah  thus  relates  their  reconciliation : 

"The  drayhy  yielding  at  last,  the  principal  men  of  the  tribe  marched 


«*. 


[ON. 

» the  frontiera  of  In- 
I  have  had  time  to 

the  army  returned 
[)cy  learned  that  th« 
allah,  with  an  escort 
th  Jasscm,  its  shckh. 
)  traces  of  the  camp, 
ling  cither  water  or 
companions  descried 
fell  to  the  ground  in 
him.  "  At  length," 
lem  leaning  over  the 
the  head  of  the  first 

experience,'  said  he, 
he  assumed  had  its 
called  us  one  by  one, 
ke  margin  of  the  well 
lall  quantity  of  water, 

allowed  us  to  drink 
pursued  this  rational 
V  drmk  without  risk ; 
'e  been  all  dead  men ; 
on,  is  certain  destruo- 

continually,  as  much 
hstanding  this  indulg- 

were  in  quest  of,  and 
mplished  his  mission 
allah,  having  learned 
linst  the  drayhy,  per- 
t  Damascus.   They  re- 
ovemors  of  Homs  and 
Ian,  supreme  chief  of 
iranced  nearer,  certain 
y  sent  the  pasha's  fir- 
placed  their  troops  at 
ng  on  the  Wahabees, 
ina  made  preparations 
for  assistance  which 
but  the  latter  threw 
self  precipitated  fi-om 
ubmit  to  the  drayhy, 
.    The  drayhy  at  first 
itil  M.  Lascaris  inter- 
ionciliation : 
of  the  tribe  marched 


UILITARY    CAMELS. 


458 


forward  to  meet  Mchanna,  on  attention  duo  to  hi.<i  years  and  rank.  As 
soon  aa  ho  alighted,  the  drayhy  assigned  him  tho  neat  of  honor  in  the 
corner  of  tho  tent,  and  ordered  cofl'eo  to  be  brouglit.  Mchanna  here- 
upon rose :  '  I  will  drink  none  of  thy  cofleo,'  said  ho,  '  till  wo  shall  bo 
completely  reconciled,  and  havo  buried  tho  seven  stones,'  At  these 
words  tho  drayhy  also  rose ;  they  drew  and  mutually  presented  their 
sabers  to  bo  kissed ;  after  which  they  embraced,  and  tho  cxamplo  wns 
followed  by  their  attendants.  Mehanna  with  his  lance  made  aa  oponin<; 
in  tho  ground,  in  tho  center  of  the  tent,  about  a  foot  in  depth ;  and 
choosing  seven  small  stones,  ho  sai>l  to  tho  drayhy,  '  In  tho  name  o^  the 
God  of  peace,  for  your  guaranty  and  mine,  we  thus  for  ever  bury  our 
discord.'  As  the  stones  were  cast  into  the  hole,  tho  two  shokhs  threw 
earth  over  them,  and  trod  it  down  with  their  feet ;  tho  women  signaliz- 
ing tho  ceremony  with  deafening  shouts  of  joy  :  at  its  termination  tho 
chiefs  resumed  their  seats,  and  coffee  was  served.  From  that  moment 
it  was  no  longer  allowable  to  revert  to  the  post,  or  to  mention  war.  I 
was  assured  that  a  reconciliation,  to  be  according  to  rule,  ought  always 
to  be  solemnized  in  this  form." 

Their  united  forces  amounted  to  seven  thousand  and  six  hundred 
tents,  and  tho  drayhy  now  became  chief  of  all  the  Bedouins  of  Syria. 
Saker  went  to  Homs  to  solicit  the  deliverance  of  Fares,  whom  ho  brought 
back  attired  in  robes  of  honor,  to  take  part  in  the  general  rejoicing. 

Some  days  afterward  the  drayhy  marched  against  the  Wahabees, 
who  were  besieging  Palmyra,  and  encountered  them  at  £1  Duah,  with- 
out coming  to  a  pitched  battle.  "  Here,"  says  Fatallah,  "  I  had  leisure 
to  appreciate  the  advantage  of  the  mardoufft  in  these  wars  of  the  des- 
ert, in  which  it  is  always  necessary  to  carry  about  the  commissariat  of 
the  army,  and  often  for  a  considerable  time.  These  camels,  mounted 
each  by  two  soldiers,  are  like  moving  fortresses,  provisioned  with  every 
thing  necessary  for  the  nourbhment  and  defense  of  their  riders.  A 
budget  of  water,  a  sack  of  flour,  and  another  of  dried  dates,  ajar  of 
sheep's  butter,  and  the  munitions  of  war,  are  formed  into  a  sort  of 
square  tower  on  the  animal's  back.  The  men,  conveniently  placed  on 
each  side  on  seats  composed  of  cordage,  thus  carry  with  them  every 
thing  of  which  their  temperate  habits  have  need.  When  they  are 
hungry,  they  knead  a  little  of  the  meal  with  butter,  and  eat  it  in  that 
state  without  baking ;  a  few  dates  and  a  small  quantity  of  water  com- 
pleting their  moderate  repast :  nor  do  they  quit  their  post  to  sleep,  but 
throw  themselves  across  the  camel  in  the  manner  I  have  already  de- 
scribed." The  next  day's  engagement  was  more  serious,  and  on  the  third 
the  enemy  fled,  leaving  the  drayhy  in  possession  of  the  field.  Having 
no  longer  any  enemies  to  fear  in  the  Syrian  Desert,  M.  Lascaris  went  to 
Homs  to  buy  merchandize  and  write  to  Europe.  They  at  length  set  out 
to  return,  and  at  night  their  guides  persuaded  them  not  to  halt  till  they 
had  completed  the  journey.  In  crossing  a  mountain  at  midnight.  Fa- 
tallah's  horse  lost  its  footing,  and  he  was  hurled  down  a  tremendous 


r 


451 


DE    LASCIRIS'S    SKCBET    MISSION. 


precipice.  He  was  picked  up  inBcnsiblc,  but  lite  was  not  quite  extinct, 
and  though  his  recovery  was  despaired  of  for  two  or  three  mouths,  ho 
was  finally  restored  to  tolerable  health. 

The  drayhy  was  obliged  to  pursue  his  migrations  eastward,  and  M. 
Lascaris  remained  with  Fatallah.  Ten  months  passed  away,  anr\  another 
spring  had  come,  when  a  courier  announced  to  them  the  approach  of 
the  Bedouins.  In  a  few  days  they  rejoined  the  drayhy,  who  was  over- 
joyed at  the  recovery  of  Fatallah.  It  was  now  reported  that  the  Waha- 
bees,  who  intended  the  conquest  of  Syria,  were  approaching  with  a 
formidable  army,  which  spread  terror  and  devastation  every  where  on 
Its  passage.  The  drayhy  requested  auxiliary  troops  of  the  Pasha  of 
Damascus,  and  "  while  waiting  for  the  expected  reinforcements,"  says 
Fatallah,  "  he  caused  a  solemn  declaration  of  war  to  be  made,  according 
to  the  custom  of  the  Bedouins  on  very  particular  occasions,  in  the  fol- 
lowing form:  A  white  female  camel  was  selected,  and  blackened  all 
over  with  soot  and  oil ;  reins  made  of  black  hair  were  then  put  over 
her,  and  she  was  mounted  by  a  young  maiden  dressed  in  black,  with 
her  face  and  hands  also  blackened.  Ten  men  led  her  from  tribe  to 
tribe,  and  on  reaching  each  she  proclaimed  aloud  three  times — '  Succor ! 
succor !  succor !  Which  of  you  will  make  this  camel  white  ?  she  is  a 
relic  from  the  tent  of  the  drayhy  menacing  ruin.  Fly,  fly,  noble  and 
generous  defenders  I  The  Wahabees  are  coming  1  they  will  carry  away 
your  allies  and  your  brothers :  all  you  who  hear  me,  address  your  prayers 
to  the  prophets  Mohammed  and  Ah,  the  first  and  the  last  1' 

"  Saying  which,  she  distributed  among  the  tribe  handfhls  of  black 
b".ir,  and  letters  from  the  drayhy,  indicating  the  place  of  rendezvous  on 
the  banks  of  the  Orontes." 

The  camp  of  the  drayhy  was  soon  augmented  by  the  coalition  of 
thirty  tribes,  and  the  Pasha  of  Damascus  sent  his  nephew  Ibrahim  Pasha 
with  ten  thousand  men  to  Hama,  there  to  wait  for  other  troops  from 
Acre  and  Aleppo.  When  they  had  met,  the  drayhy  and  Ibrahim  Pasha, 
assisted  by  Fatallah,  arranged  their  plan  of  defense.  In  two  days  the 
enemy  appeared  and  established  their  camp,  composed  of  fifty  tribes 
and  seventy-five  thousand  tents,  at  one  hour's  distance  from  the  allies. 

"  Ibrahim  Pasha,"  continues  Fatallah,  "  was  in  consternation,  and 
sent  in  great  haste  in  search  of  the  drayhy,  who,  having  succeeded  in 
reanimating  his  courage  a  little,  returned  to  the  camp,  to  order  the 
necessary  entrenchments.  For  this  purpose  all  the  camels  were  assem- 
bled, bound  together  by  their  knees,  and  placed  in  double  files  in  front 
of  the  tents ;  and,  to  complete  the  rampart,  a  trench  was  dug  behind 
them.  The  enemy  on  his  part  did  the  same,  and  the  drayhy  ordered 
the  Hatfe  to  be  prepared.  This  singular  ceremony  consists  in  selecting 
the  most  beautifhl  among  the  Bedouin  girls,  to  be  placed  lu  a  houdah, 
richly  ornamented,  borne  by  a  tall  white  camel.  The  choice  of  the 
maiden  who  is  destined  to  occupy  this  honorable  but  perilous  post  is  very 
important,  for  the  success  of  the  battle  depends  almost  entirely  upon 


ilON. 

vas  not  quite  extinct, 
»  or  three  mouths,  ho 

ns  eastward,  and  M. 
ied  away,  anr*.  another 
lem  the  approach  of 
■ayhy,  vho  was  over- 
>ortcdthat  theWaha- 
1  approaching  with  a 
ition  every  where  on 
3op8  of  the  Pasha  of 

reinforcements,"  says 
to  be  made,  according 

occasions,  in  the  fol- 
ed,  and  blackened  all 
ir  were  then  put  over 
aressed  in  black,  with 
led  her  from  tribe  to 
three  times — '  Succor! 
camel  white  ?  she  is  a 
n.    Fly,  fly,  noble  and 

1  they  will  carry  away 
le,  address  your  prayers 
.  the  last  1' 

xibe  handfuls  of  black 
place  of  rendezvous  on 

ed  by  the  coalition  of 
I  nephew  Ibrahim  Pasha 
for  other  troops  from 
yhy  and  Ibrahim  Pasha, 
inse.    In  two  days  the 
composed  of  fifty  tribes 
stance  from  the  allies. 
s  in  consternation,  and 
lo,  having  succeeded  in 
the  camp,  to  order  the 
the  camels  were  assem- 
in  double  files  in  front 
trench  was  dug  behind 
md  the  drayhy  ordered 
my  consists  in  selecting 
be  placed  m  a  houdah, 
lel.    The  choice  of  the 
but  perilous  post  is  very 
ds  almost  entirely  upon 


DEFEAT    OF    THE    WAIIABEES. 


466 


lier.  Placed  opposite  to  the  enemy,  and  surrounded  by  the  bravest  war- 
riors, it  is  her  duty  to  excite  them  to  the  combat :  the  principal  action 
always  takes  place  around  her,  and  prodigies  of  valor  defend  her.  All 
would  be  lost  should  the  hatio  fall  into  the  enemy's  hands ;  and,  to  avoid 
so  irreparable  a  misfortune,  half  the  army  must  always  be  stationed  about 
lier.  Warriors  succeed  each  other  on  this  point,  where  the  battle  is 
always  hottest,  and  each  comes  to  gather  enthusiasm  from  her  looks. 
A  girlnan-"d  Arkia,  uniting  in  an  eminent  degree  courage,  eloquence, 
and  beauty,  wis  chosen  for  our  hatfe.  The  enemy  also  prepared  his, 
and  the  battle  soon  afterward  commenced." 

After  several  days  of  severe  fighting,  during  which  the  drayhy's  forces 
suffered  heavy  loss,  a  last,  desperate  effort  was  made,  resulting  in  the 
total  defeat  of  the  Wahabees.  The  drayhy  made  a  triumphal  entrance 
into  Hama,  escorted  by  the  chiefs  of  the  allied  tribes,  and  was  received 
in  a  splendid  manner  by  the  governor  and  the  agas. 

Every  day  tribes  arrived  from  the  Nedjid  country,  deserting  the 
Wahabees  to  join  the  drayhy;  some  attracted  by  his  extraordinary 
reputation,  others  driven  by  dissensions  with  King  Ebn  Sihoud.  M. 
Lascaris  now  saw  his  hopes  realized  beyond  his  most  sanguine  anticipa- 
tions ;  but  so  long  as  any  thing  remained  to  be  done  he  allowed  him- 
self no  rest ;  they  therefore  crossed  the  Tigris  and  entered  Persia. 
Here  the  fame  of  the  drayhy  had  preceded  him,  and  the  tribes  of  the 
country  came  to  fraternize  with  him,  but  as  M.  Lascaris  required  the 
co-operation  of  the  great  prince,  chief  of  all  the  Persian  tribes,  the 
Emir  Sahid  el  Bokhrani,  whose  command  extends  to  the  frontiers  of 
India,  they  prolonged  their  journey  to  meet  him.  They  dispatched 
couriers  to  notify  the  emir  of  their  approach,  and  he  came  to  meet  them 
at  the  head  of  a  formidable  army.  They  were  at  first  intimidated,  but 
he  received  them  cordially,  entered  readily  into  their  views,  and  fully 
understood  the  importance  of  the  commercial  intercourse  they  were 
desirous  of  establishing  with  India.  He  promised  them  the  co-operation 
of  all  the  tribes  of  Persia  under  his  dominion,  and  entered  into  a  dis- 
tinct treaty  with  them. 

They  returned  by  forced  marches,  and  on  arriving  in  Syria,  re- 
ceived a  courier  from  the  king  of  the  Wahabees,  who  brought  a  little 
piece  of  paper  about  three  fingers  in  breadth,  and  twice  as  long.  On 
this  was  a  long  and  imperious  letter,  concluding  with  a  command  to 
come  and  see  him  without  fear.  On  the  reception  of  this  letter,  a  coun- 
cil of  war  was  held,  and  after  having  deliberately  weighed  the  perils  of 
the  journey  against  the  advantages  of  the  alliance,  the  drayhy  deter- 
mined to  comply  with  the  authoritative  invitation.  He  accordingly  set 
out  with  a  small  retinue,  accompanied  by  Fatallah. 

In  a  few  days,  they  overtook  a  tribe  of  Wahabees,  from  whom  they 
Avere  careful  to  conceal  their  pipes,  for  Ebn  Sihoud  prohibited  smoking, 
and  punished  any  infraction  of  his  laws  with  death.  They  soon  reached 
the  Nedjid,  a  country  intersected  with  mountains  and  valleys,  studded 


456 


DB   LASCARIS'S    SECRET    MISSION 


with  nomad  camps,  and  abounding  in  towns  and  villages,  the  former  of 
which  appear  to  bo  very  ancient,  and  attest  a  former  population  much 
richer  and  more  numerous  than  that  by  which  they  are  now  occupied. 
The  villages  are  peopled  with  Bedouin  husbandmen ;  and  the  soil  pro- 
duces corn,  table  vegetables,  and  dates,  in  abundance. 

"At  len..th,"  continues  Fatallah,  "after  fourteen  days'  journey,  at 
the  pace  of  our  dromedaries,  which  may  be  reckoned  at  triple  the  dis- 
tance traversed  by  a  caravan  in  the  same  space  of  time  we  arnved  m 
the  capital  of  the  Wahabees.  The  city  is  surrounded  and  concealed  by 
a  wood  of  palms,  called  the  palm-trees  of  Darkisch,  which  serves  it  as  a 
rampart,  and  is  so  thickly  planted  as  scarcely  to  admit  the  passage  of  a 
horseman  between  the  (rLks  of  the  trees.  Having  made  our  way 
through  these,  we  came  to  a  second  barrier,  composed  f  !>"!«  j'^^J^ 
of  dafe-stones,  resembling  a  bank  of  small  pebbles,  and  behind  it  the 
town-wall,  along  which  wo  rode  to  the  entrance-gate,  and,  passing 
through  it,  soon  reached  the  king's  palace,  a  large  edifice  of  two  stories, 
built  of  white  hewn  stones.  .    ,       -,      j       *    \.„„.y. 

"Ebn  SUioud,  on  being  informed  of  our  anival,  ordered  us  to  be  ush- 
ered into  an  elegant  and  weU-furnished  apartment,  where  a  plentiful  re- 
past was  set  before  us.  This  beginning  seemed  to  augur  well,  and  we 
congratulated  ourselves  upon  not  having  yielded  to  the  suspicions  which 
had  been  sug<-ested  to  us.  The  same  night,  havmg  suitably  attired  our- 
sdves  wo  were  presented  to  the  king;  whom  we  found  to  be  about  tor- 
ty-five  years  of  age,  with  a  harsh  countenance,  a  bronzed  complexion, 
and  a  venr  black  beard.  Ho  was  dressed  in  a  robe  festened  round  the 
bins  by  Zwhite  sash,  a  striped  turban  of  red  and  white  on  his  head,  and 
a  black  embroidered  mantle  thrown  over  his  left  shoulder,  holding  in  his 
right  hand  the  scepter  of  the  king  of  Mahlab,  the  ensign  of  his  au  hority. 
Sf was  seated,  suLunded  by  the  grandees  of  his  court,  at  theextremity 

of  a  largo  audience-chamber,  richly  furnished  with  mats,  carpets  and 
cusWons  The  draperies,  as  well  as  the  king's  habU.ments  were  of  cot- 
Z  or  the  wool  of  Yemen-silk  being  prohibited  in  his  dommions,  to- 
^"her  with  every  thing  that  would  recall  the  luxury  or  customs  of  the 

'^"^Ebn  Sihoud  greeted  them  coldly,  and  when,  after  a  long  saence,  the 
drayhy  opted  fhe  conference,  he  fiercely  replied  in  a  series  of  charges 
Sst  X,  and  growing  more  and  more  exasperated  as  he  spoke,  con- 
Sdbrorderin^g  them  to  leave  his  presence,  and  await  his  pleasure. 


t    ' 


SION. 

illages,  the  former  of 
ler  population  much 
ey  are  now  occupied, 
en ;  and  the  soil  pro- 
ice. 

3cn  days'  journey,  at 
ncd  at  triple  the  dis- 
jf  time,  we  arrived  in 
ded  and  concealed  by 
1,  which  serves  it  as  a 
Jmit  the  passage  of  a 
aving  made  our  way 
posed  of  little  hillocks 
ea,  and  behind  it  the 
,cc-gate,  and,  passing 
J  edifice  of  two  stories, 

,1,  ordered  us  to  be  ush- 
t,  where  a  plentiful  rc- 
l  to  augur  well,  and  we 
to  the  suspicions  which 
ing  suitably  attired  our- 
3  found  to  be  about  for- 
a  bronzed  complexion, 
)be  fastened  round  the 
I  white  on  his  head,  and 
shoulder,  holding  in  his 
!  ensign  of  his  authority. 
s  court,  at  the  extremity 
nth  mats,  carpets,  and 
labiliments,  were  of  cot- 
ted  in  his  dominions,  to- 
uxury  or  customs  of  the 

,  after  a  long  silence,  the 
ed  in  a  series  of  charges 
aerated  as  he  spoke,  con- 
,  and  await  his  pleasure, 
ed,  but  recollecting  him- 
ts  they  remained  in  their 
le  third  day,  the  drayhy 
the  sight  of  twenty-five 
he  door.    Again  he  sent 
Uohim.    ThoWahabee 
id  without  respondmg  to 
ed.    The  drayhy  replied 


THE    KINO    OP   THE    WAHABEES. 


457 


with  dignity,  saying  that  on  the  strcngtii  of  hia  promises,  he  had  come 
with  only  ten  men  while  commanding  thousands  of  warriors :  he  might 
crush  them  like  ashes,  but  from  the  frontier  of  India  to  the  frontier  of 
NedjiJ,  in  Persia,  in  Bussora,  in  Mesopotamia,  Heraad,  the  two  Syrias, 
Galilee,  and  Uoran,  every  man  who  wore  the  kaftan  would  take  ven- 
geance for  his  death.  He  appealed  to  his  honor,  to  restore  him  to  liis 
country,  and  openly  contend  with  him,  and  continued  his  remarks  with 
assurances  that  his  death  would  not  diminish  his  tribe,  nor  extinguish 
the  race  of  Cholan.  The  king  gradually  calmed  himself  after  this  ha- 
rangue, and  said :  "  Gro  in  peace ;  nothing  but  good  will  happen  to  you." 

Next  day,  Ebn  Sihoud  sent  for  them,  and  received  them  very  gra- 
ciously, and  presently  asked  the  drayhy  about  the  persons  who  accom- 
panied him.  Fatallah  trembled,  for  he  knew  the  prejudices  of  the  Wa- 
habee.  When  the  drayhy  named  him,  the  king,  turning  toward  him, 
said :  "  You  are,  then,  Abdallah,  the  Christian  ?"  On  his  answering  in 
the  affirmative,  the  king  continued :  *'  I  see  that  your  actions  are  much 
greater  than  your  stature."  After  some  further  remarks,  he  demanded 
the  object  of  the  alliance  they  had  been  laboring  so  many  years  to  ac- 
complish. Fatallah  stated  the  desire  of  uniting  all  the  Bedouins  of  Syria 
under  the  command  of  the  drayhy  to  resist  the  power  of  the  Turks ;  that 
they  had  fought  against  the  armies  of  Ebn  Sihoud  at  Hama,  simply  be- 
cause they  were  an  obstacle  to  their  projects.  They  were  laboring  for 
the  drayhy ;  his  power  once  established  in  Syria,  Mesopotamia,  and  to 
the  confines  of  Persia,  they  were  willing  to  enter  into  alliance  with  the 
king,  and  become  invulnerable  in  the  possession  of  entire  liberty.  For 
this  purpose  they  had  now  come,  and  had  proved  the  sincerity  of  their 
intentions.  The  king's  countenance  cleared  up  as  Fatallah  spoke,  and 
when  he  had  ceased,  he  expressed  his  satisfaction.  Then  turning  to  his 
slaves,  he  ordered  three  cups  of  coffee,  which,  among  the  Bedouins,  is  a 
mark  of  the  highest  consideration.  The  rest  of  the  visit  passed  off  well, 
and  they  retired  well  satisfied. 

"  So  delighted  was  I  with  the  recovery  of  my  liberty,"  says  Fatallah, 
*'  that  I  spent  all  the  next  day  in  walking  about  and  visiting  every  part 
of  Darkisch  and  its  environs.  The  town,  built  of  white  stone,  contains 
seven  thousand  inhabitants,  almost  all  kinsmen,  ministers,  or  genentls  of 
Ebn  Sihoud.  No  artizans  are  found  there.  The  only  trades  exercised 
in  tho  town  are  those  of  armorers  and  farriers,  and  few  persons  are  en- 
gaged even  in  them.  Nothing  is  to  be  purchased,  not  even  food,  for 
which  every  one  depends  on  his  own  means — that  is  to  say,  upon  an 
estate  or  garden,  producing  com,  vegetables,  and  fruits,  and  affording 
nourishment  to  a  few  fowls.  Their  numerous  herds  browse  in  the  plain ; 
and  every  Wednesday  the  inhabitants  of  Yemen  and  Mecca  assemble  to 
exchange  their  merchandise  for  cattle  ;  a  species  of  fair,  which  forms  the 
sole  commerce  of  the  country.  The  women  appear  unvailed,  but  throw 
their  black  mantles  over  their  faces — a  very  disgraceful  custom :  they 
are  generally  ugly  and  excessively  dark-complexioned.    The  gardens, 


458  DE   LASCARIS'S   SECRET    MISSION. 

situated  in  a  charming  valley  near  the  town,  on  the  opposilc  side  to  that 
by  which  we  had  entered,  produce  the  finest  fruits  in  the  world — 
bananas,  oranges,  pomegranates,  figs,  apples,  melons,  etc.,  intermixed 
with  barley  and  maize — and  are  carefully  watered. 

"  The  next  morning,  the  king  again  summoned  us  to  him,  received 
us  very  graciously,  and  questioned  me  closely  respecting  the  various 
European  sovereigns,  especially  Napoleon,  for  whom  he  testified  great 
admiration.    Nothing  delighted  him  so  much  as  the  recital  of  the  em- 
peror's conquests ;  and  happily  my  frequent  intercourse  with  M.  Laacaris 
had  furnished  me  with  many  details  to  entertain  liim  with.    At  the 
account  of  every  battle,  he  would  exclaim — '  Surely  this  man  is  an  emis- 
sary of  God :  I  am  persuaded  he  must  be  in  intimate  communion  with 
his  Creator,  since  he  is  thus  singularly  favored.'  His  affability  toward  mo 
having  gradually  but  rapidly  increased,  he  suddenly  changed  the  subject 
of  conversation,  and  said  at  last,  '  Abdallah,  I  desire  to  hear  the  truth 
iVom  you :  what  is  the  basis  of  Christianity?'    Aware  of  the  Wahabee's 
^  rejudices,  I  trembled  at  this  question  ;  but  mentally  praying  for  Divine 
inspiration,  'The  basis  of  all  religion,  O  son  of  Sihoud!'  I  said,  'is  belief 
in  God.    The  Christians  deem,  as  you  do,  that  there  is  one  only  God, 
the  Creator  of  the  universe ;  who  punishes  the  wicked,  pardons  the  peni- 
tent, and  recompenses  the  good;  that  He  alone  is  great,  merciful, 
and  almighty.'     'Very  well,'  said  he;  'but  how  do  you  pray?'    I  re- 
peated the  Paternoster;  he  made  his  secretary  write  at  my  dictation, 
read  and  re-read  it,  and  placed  it  inside  his  vest ;  then,  pursuing  his  in- 
terrogatory, asked  me  to  which  side  we  turned  to  pray.    'We  pray  on 
all  sides,'  answered  I,  'for  God  is  everywhere.'   'That  opinion  I  entirely 
approve,'  said  he ;  '  but  you  must  have  precepts  as  well  as  prayers.'    I 
repeated  the  ten  commandments  given  by  God  to  His  prophet  Moses, 
which  he  appeared  to  know,  and  continued  his  inquiries.     '  And  Jesus 
Christ — in  what  light  do  you  consider  him?'     '  As  the  Incarnate  Word 
of  God.'     '  But  he  was  crucified  ?'    '  As  the  Divine  Word,  he  could  not 
die  ;  but  as  man,  he  suffered  for  the  sins  of  the  wicked.'    '  That  is  mar- 
velous.   And  the  sacred  book  which  God  inspired  through  Jesus  Christ, 
is  it  revered  among  you?  do  you  exactly  conform  to  this  doctrine?' 
'  We  preserve  it  with  the  greatest  reverence,  and  m  all  things  obey  its 
injunctions.'     '  The  Turks,'  said  he,  'have  made  a  god  of  their  prophet, 
and  pray  over  his  tomb  like  idolaters.     Cursed  be  those  who  ascribe  to 
the  Creator  an  equal !  may  the  saber  exterminate  them !'    The  king  ap- 
peared delighted  with  our  conversation,  and  said  to  me — '  I  see  that  we 
may  always  learn  something.    I  have  hitherto  believed  the  Christians  to 
be  the  most  superstitious  of  men;  but  I  am  now  convinced  that  they  ap- 
proach much  nearer  to  the  true  religion  than  the  Turks.' " 

For  several  days  they  met  in  secret  conclave  with  Ebn  Sihoud,  and 
an  alliance  was  concluded  between  him  and  the  drayhy  to  their  mutual 
satisfaction,  the  king  declaring  that  their  two  bodies  should  be  hence- 
forth directed  by  one  soul.    He  then  invited  them,  for  the  first  time,  to 


\ 


mim 


wmmm- 


ION. 

opposilo  side  to  that 
lits  in  the  world — 
ns,  etc.,  intermi.\ed 

[  us  to  him,  received 

ipecting  the  various 

n  he  testified  great 

he  recital  of  the  em- 

irso  with  M.  Laacaris 

liim  with.    At  the 

this  man  is  an  emis- 

ate  communion  with 

affability  toward  me 

changed  the  subject 

•e  to  hear  the  truth 

TO  of  the  Wahabee's 

y  praying  for  Divine 

lid!'  I  said,  'is  belief 

3re  is  one  only  God, 

ed,  pardons  the  peni- 

3  is  great,  merciful, 

0  you  pray?'  I  re- 
rite  at  my  dictation, 
hen,  pursuing  his  in- 
pray.  '  We  pray  on 
hat  opinion  I  entirely 

1  well  as  prayers.'    I 
His  prophet  Moses, 

quiries.  '  And  Jesus 
the  Incarnate  Word 
!  Word,  he  could  not 
ked.'  'That  is  mar- 
through  Jesus  Christ, 
m  to  this  doctrine?' 
in  all  things  obey  its 
;od  of  their  prophet, 
those  who  ascribe  to 
hem !'  The  king  ap- 
o  me — '  I  see  that  we 
ived  the  Christians  to 
nvinced  that  they  ap- 
urks.' " 

ivith  Ebn  Sihoud,  and 
•ayhy  to  their  mutual 
dies  should  be  hence- 
,  for  the  first  time,  to 


DEATH    0I-'    DK    LASCAUIS. 


469 


oat  with  him,  and  tasted  each  dish  before  it  ^^as  oftbrea  to  them.  "As 
he  had  never  seen  any  one  eat  otherwise  than  with  their  fingers,"  says 
Fatallah,  "I  carved  a  spoon  and  fork  out  of  a  piece  of  wood,  spread  my 
handkerchiet  for  a  napkin,  and  ate  my  dinner  after  the  European  fashion 
which  highly  diverted  him.  'Thanks  be  to  (4od!'  said  he,  'every 
nation  believes  its  customs  the  best  possible,  and  each  is  therefore  coil- 
tent  with  its  condition.' " 

When  they  returned  to  their  tribe  .and  had  recovered  from  tlu  i 
fatigues,  M.  Lascaris   told    Fatallah    that   .ill  was    accomplishe.!   an.i 
they  must  now  return  to  give  an  account  of  their  mi.  5on.    They  lel't 
their  friends,  in  the  hope  of  soon  seeing  them,  at  the  head  of  the  ex- 
pedition to  which  they  had  opened  the  way.    They  reached  Constanti- 
nople m  April,  after  ninety  days'  traveling,  frequently  across  tracts  of 
snow     Constantinople  w.as  ravaged  by  the  plague,  and  during  tlire. 
months  spent  in  quarantine  they  heard  of  the  burning  of  Moscow.     M 
Lascaris  was  in  despair,  and  .it  length  determined  to  return  to  Syria 
there  to  await  the  issue  of  events.    They  embarked,  but  a  violent  stornl 
drove  them  to  Chios,  where  they  again  encoimtercd  the  pla"-ue    Having 
lost  their  property  in  the  tempest,  and  being  cut  ofl"  from  e°xternal  conl^ 
munication  by  the  contagion,  they  were  neariy  without  clothinrr,  and 
exposed  to  the  greatest  privations.     Communications  being  at  fengtii 
restored,  M.  Lascaris  went  to  a  conference  with  Generals  Lallemandaud 
Savary,  at  Smyrna,  .ind  .illowod  Fatallah  m(>aiiw  hile  to  visit  his  mother 
whom  he  had  not  seen  for  six  years,  ' 

While  staying  at  Latakia  with  his  motlior,  niul  daily  expcctin<r  the 
.irrival  of  a  ship  which  might  convoy  hint  to  K-ypt,  whither  ]\["  Las- 
caris hail  ordered  liini  to  repair,  Fatall.ah  saw  a  French  brig  of  war 
enter  the  port,  and  hastened  to  inquire  for  letters.  But  the  letters 
only  brought  the  afflicting  intelligence  of  the  decease  of  his  bene&ctor 
at  Cair 


MlllpiiipillpMIHI 


mmm 


DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON'S 

EXPEDITION  TO  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


Aptku  the  unsuccessful  attempt  of  Messrs.  Ritchie  and  Lyon  to  no- 
netiate  to  the  interior  of  Africa,  h.  1819,  the  British  government  dcter- 
mmcd  to  fit  out  an  exi)edition  on  a  more  Uberal  scale,  for  the  purnoso 
of  establishing  friendly  and  commercial  relations  with  some  of'tlie  al 
most  unknown  countries  of  Soudan.     Dr.  Oudney  first  volunteered  his 
services,  and,  whUe  his  plan  was  under  consideration,  met  with  Lieu- 
tenant Clapperton,  of  the  royal  navy,  in  Edinburg,  in  the  year  1820 
He  communicated  his  design  to  the  latter,  who  immediately  expressed 
us  desire  to  be  associated  with  him,  and  the  offer  was  accepted  by  Lord 
liathurst,  then  Secretary  of  State.    While  the  preparations  for  the  ex- 
pedition were  going  forward.  Major  Denham  volunteered  to  undertake 
a  journey  across  the  Desert  to  Timbuctoo,  but  was  afterward,  at  his  own 
request,  associated  with  Oudney  and  Clapperton,  and  received  the  com 
mand  of  the  expedition. 

On  arriving  at  Malta,  Denham  engaged  the  services  of  William  IliU- 
man,  a  shipwright  in  the  dock-yard  at  La  Valetta,  the  latter  havinc.  vol- 
unteered  his  services  on  condition  of  receiving  i;i20  a  year  Oudnev 
and  Clapperton  had  already  proceeded  to  Tripoli,  where  Denham  a;. 
nved  on  the  18th  of  November,  1821.  The  three  travelers  immediatelv 
called  upon  the  p^ha,  who  received  them  kindly,  and  promised  to  fo^ 
ward  the  party  safely  into  the  interior.  They  were  detained,  however, 
for  three  or  four  months,  before  their  preparations  were  completed,  and 
a  favorable  opportunity  occurred  for  proceeding  to  Mourzuk,  the  capital 
of  Fezzan.  "  On  the  5th  of  March,  1822,"  says  Major  Denham,  "I  left 
thThnr  t'.^  ^'"•^'"*^'^'  t^  J«'"  '»>■  t«o  companions,  who  iiad  advanced 
on  to  m!      ''"''  ''"'"'''  '"''''"''  *^*'""^«'  "^"^  ^^^P^^''-    They  had  gone 

colois,  nchly  scattered  m  beautiful  disorder-but  it  was  the  last  of  the 
kind  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  meet  with  between  this  place  and 


464 


TRAVELS    OP    DENIIAM   AND    CLAPPERTON. 


Artor  fourteen  days'  travel  they  reaelied  Sockna,  a  town  about  half- 
way  between  Tripoli  and  Mourzuk.  They  were  met  by  the  governor 
and  principal  inhabitants,  accompanied  by  some  hundreds  of  the  coun- 
try people,  who  crowded  around  their  horses,  kissing  their  hands,  and 
welcoming  them  with  every  appearance  of  sincerity  and  satisfiiction. 
This  reception  M'as  very  encouraging  to  them,  as  they  had  determined, 
on  setting  out,  to  wear  the  Frank  dress,  and  to  pass  for  Englishmen  and 
Christians,  on  all  occasions.  While  walking  in  the  streets  of  Sockna, 
wo  boys  accosted  them,  saying  that  a  beautiful  woman  wished  to  see 
<hem.  "We  put  ourselves  under  their  guidance,"  writes  Denham,  "and 
entering  a  better  sort  of  dwelling-house,  Avere  quickly  surrounded  by  at 
least  half  a  dozen  ladies,  most  of  them  aged ;  but  who  asked  us  a  thou- 
sand questions,  and,  when  satisfied  we  were  not  dangerous,  called 
several  yoimger  ones,  who  appeared  to  be  but  waiting  for  permission  to 
appear.  Our  dresses  and  ourselves  were  then  minutely  examined.  The 
yellow  buttons  on  our  waistcoats,  and  our  watches,  created  the  greatest 
astonishment ;  and  a  pair  of  loose  white  trowsers  that  I  wore,  into  the 
pockets  of  which  I  accidentally  put  my  hands,  raised  their  curiosity  to 
a  wonderful  degree :  my  hands  were  pulled  out,  and  those  of  three  or 
four  of  the  ladi"s  thrust  in,  in  their  stead ;  these  were  replaced  by  others, 
all  demanding  their  use  so  loudly  and  violently,  that  I  had  considerable 
difficulty  in  extricating  myself,  and  was  glad  to  make  my  escape." 

The  remaining  half  of  the  journey  to  Mourzuk  was  more  difficult 
and  dangerous  than  the  first.  They  were  sometimes  two  or  three  days 
without  finding  a  supply  of  water,  which  was  generally  muddy,  bitter, 
and  brackish ;  in  addition  to  which  they  encountered  a  severe  sand- 
storm. The  spot  was  pointed  out  to  them,  strewed  with  bones  and 
dried  carcases,  where,  the  year  before,  fifty  sheep,  two  camels,  and  two 
men  perished  from  thirst  and  fatigue,  when  within  eight  hours'  march 
of  a  well  which  the  travelers  were  then  anxiously  looking  for.  On  the 
7th  of  April  they  arrived  at  a  village  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  multitude  of 
palm-trees,  just  one  day's  journey  short  of  Mourzuk.  They  had  ne- 
glected sending  word  to  advise  the  Sultan  of  their  approach,  and  their 
reception,  consequently,  was  less  brilliant  than  at  Sockna.  As  they  drew 
near  the  walls  of  the  city,  the  next  afternoon,  they  halted  to  await  the 
rotiun  of  a  messenger  whom  they  had  dispatched  to  give  notice  of  their 
arrival.  After  half  an  hour's  delay,  the  governor  of  the  town  came  out, 
and  in  the  sultan's  name  requested  that  they  would  accompany  him  to 
the  house  which  had  been  prepared  for  them,  adding,  to  their  great 
surprise,  that  the  English  consul  was  there  already.  "  The  fact  was," 
JMajor  Denham  adds,  "that  a  very  ill-looking  Jew  servant  of  mine, 
mounted  on  a  white  mule,  with  a  pair  of  small  canteens  under  him,  had 
preceded  the  camels  and  entered  the  town  by  himself.  He  was  received 
with  great  respect  by  all  the  inhabitants — conducted  through  the  streets 
to  the  house  which  was  destined  to  receive  us ;  and  from  the  circum- 
stance of  the  canteens  being  all  covered  with  brass  shining  nails,  a  very 


mmm 


l«MI 


mm 


.PPERTON. 

:na,  a  town  about  half- 
met  by  the  governor 
lundrciis  of  the  coun- 
issing  their  hands,  and 
crity  and  satisfaction, 
they  had  determined, 
iss  for  Englishmen  and 
the  streets  of  Sockna, 
Avoman  wished  to  see 
'  writes  Denham,  "  and 
ckly  surrounded  by  at 
,  who  asked  us  a  tliou- 
not   dangerous,   called 
liting  for  permission  to 
nutely  examined.    The 
es,  created  the  greatest 
rs  that  I  wore,  into  the 
lised  their  curiosity  to 
and  those  of  three  or 
vere  replaced  by  others, 
;hat  I  had  considerable 
make  my  escape." 
zuk  was  more  difficult 
imes  two  or  three  days 
generally  muddy,  bitter, 
untered  a  severe  sand- 
rewed  with  bones  and 
ip,  two  camels,  and  two 
thin  eight  hours'  march 
ly  looking  for.    On  the 
st  of  a  vast  multitude  of 
ourzuk.    They  had  ne- 
leir  approach,  and  their 
,  Sockna.   As  they  drew 
hey  halted  to  awjut  the 
id  to  give  notice  of  their 
)r  of  the  town  came  out, 
rould  accompany  him  to 
I,  adding,  to  their  great 
;ady.     "The  fact  was," 
Jew  servant  of  mine, 
canteens  under  liim,  had 
imsclf.    He  was  received 
icted  through  the  streets 
;  and  from  the  circum- 
trass  shining  ntuls,  a  very 


i 


i. «:  ■■ 


J-J'i 


-7^5 


J//^ 


Ihm'   I 


I'^r^i 


m 


M 


"^^ 


mrnvf 


W: 


DELAY    AT   MOURZDK. 


4G5 


liigh  idcn  of  his  consequence  was  formotl.  He  very  senHiMy  received  nil 
tlieir  nttentions  in  silence,  and  drunk  tlu>  cool  water  and  milk  which  was 
Iinnded  to  him :  und  wo  always  liad  the  laugli  agaiimt  them  atterward, 
for  having  shown  so  much  civility  to  an  Israelite — a  race  they  heartily 
despise.  '  Wo  thought  the  English,'  Haid  they,  '  were  better  looking 
than  tlie  Jews— death  to  their  race ! — but  then  God  made  us  all,  though 
not  all  handsome  like  Mussulmen,  so  who  could  tell  ?' " 

Their  interview  with  the  sultan  of  Fezzan  was  any  thing  but  en- 
couraging, lie  told  them  tlmt  there  was  no  intention,  as  they  liad  been 
led  to  expect,  of  any  expedition  to  proceed  to  the  southward  for  some 
time  to  come  ;  tl.at  an  army  could  only  move  in  the  spring  of  the  year ; 
that  the  arrangements  for  moving  a  body  of  men  through  a  country 
where  every  necessary  must  be  carried  on  camels,  both  for  men  and 
horses,  were  so  numerous,  that  before  the  following  spring  it  was  scarcely 
possible  to  complete  them,  as  two  camels  were  required  for  every  man 
and  liorse,  and  one  for  every  two  men  on  foot.  lie  read  to  them  the 
letter  of  the  Pasha  of  Tripoli,  in  which  it  was  stated  that  they  were 
commended  to  his  protection,  and  were  to  be  pennitted  to  reside  in 
Mourzuk,  or  any  other  part  of  Fezzan,  until  ho  (the  sultan)  had  paid  a 
visit  to  Tripoli.  The  travelers  returned  to  their  house  with  very  dis- 
heaitened  feelings.  The  heat  was  intense,  the  thermometer  standing  at 
97°  in  the  shade. 

In  a  few  days  after  this  their  hopes  were  revived  by  a  visit  from  a 
rich  native  merchant,  named  Boo-Khaloom,  who  was  on  the  eve  of  start- 
ing for  Tripoli,  with  handsome  presents  for  the  pasha.  His  secret  er- 
rand was  to  obtain  the  removal  of  Mustapha,  the  sultan,  who,  he  well 
knew,  was  employing  his  emissaries  in  Tripoli  to  have  his  head  taken 
off  after  his  arrival  there.  Boo-Khaloom  desired  to  accompany  the 
travelers  to  Bomou ;  his  own  caravan,  with  the  merchants  who  would 
join  him,  would  be  sufficient  protection  for  them.  Soon  after  this  con- 
versation, he  left  for  Tripoli,  and  was  followed,  in  a  few  days,  by  the 
sultan,  who  not  only  stripped  Mourzuk  of  its  stores  of  supplies,  but  took 
with  hin>  all  the  camels  that  were  to  be  had.  Thus  the  expedition  was 
deprived  of  the  means  of  proceeding  further,  and  it  was  immediately 
decided  that  Major  Denham  should  return  to  Tripoli,  in  order  to  pro- 
cure the  necessary  animals  and  supplies  there. 

Leaving  Mourzuk  on  the  20th  of  May,  accompanied  only  by  his  ne- 
gro servant  Barca,  and  two  Arabs,  he  set  out,  making  the  journey  in 
twenty  days.  Denhaia  at  once  applied  for  an  audience  with  the  pasha, 
to  whom  he  represented,  in  the  strongest  terms,  their  disappointment  at 
the  delay,  and  requested  that  he  should  fix  a  specified  time  for  their  de- 
parture for  Bomou.  "  A  voyage  to  Marseilles,  on  my  way  to  England, 
was  the  consequence  of  our  altercation  with  the  pasha ;  and  the  prompti- 
tude with  which  it  was  decided  upon  and  carried  into  effect,  by  means 
of  a  small  French  vessel,  which,  at  the  time,  most  fortunately  lay  in  the 
harbor,  was  not  without  its  good  effects.    The  pasha  sent  three  dispatches 


li'l 


Mi 


■4*): 


iSI 


466 


TRAVELS    OP    DBNHAM    AND    CLAPPERTON. 


after  mc,  by  three  tlifferent  vessels,  to  Leghorn,  Malta,  and  the  port  I 
had  sailed  to,  which  I  received  in  quarantine,  informing  ne  that  Boo- 
Khaloom  was  appointed  with  an  escort  to  convey  us  forthwith  to  Bor- 
nou.  This  was  every  thing  I  wished  for ;  and  immediately  re-embarking, 
a  seven  days'  passage  brought  me  once  more  to  the  shores  of  Barbary." 
Accompanied  by  Boo-Khaloom,  the  traveler  started  for  Mourzuk,  by 
way  of  Sockna,  where  he  arrived  on  the  2d  of  October.  B oo-Khaloom's 
weakness  was  a  love  of  pomp  and  show,  and  he  entered  the  town  in  great 
state,  mounted  on  a  whit*,  horse  which  the  Pasha  of  Tripoli  had  given 
him.  Two  or  three  days  afterward  he  became  seriously  ill,  and  insisted 
on  Major  Denham  prescribing  for  him,  saying :  "  I  am  quite  sure  you 
can  cure  me,  if  it  is  the  will  of  God  that  I  shall  live ;  if  not,  nobody 
can."  The  prescriptions  were  finally  successful,  although  his  life  was 
despaired  of  for  two  days. 

They  entered  Mourzuk  on  the  30th  of  October.  Boo-Khaloom,  who 
was  a  truly  charitable  and  benevolent  man,  was  so  popular  in  the  place, 
that  on  his  returning  to  it  not  only  safe,  but  standing  high  in  the  pasha's 
favor,  half  of  the  inhabitants  came  out  to  meet  him,  shouting  and  singing, 
to  express  their  joy.  Major  Denham  was  disappointed  that  none  of  his 
friends  came  out  to  meet  him,  but  soon  learned  that  they  had  all  been 
very  ill  with  fever  and  ague,  from  which  Clapperton  had  not  yet  recov- 
ered. During  his  absence,  they  had  made  a  journey  to  Ghraat,  the  chief 
to\*'n  of  the  Tuarick  tribe,  situated  in  the  desert,  twenty  days'  journey 
Avest  of  Mourzuk.  They  were  now  happily  imited,  and  at  once  set  about 
preparing  for  their  further  travels.  The  party  consisted  of  thirteen  per- 
sons— ^Denham,  Clapperton,  and  Oudney ;  Hillman,  the  carpenter ;  a 
native  of  St.  Vincent,  who,  on  account  of  his  voyages  around  the  globe, 
Avas  nicknamed  Columbus ;  a  Gibraltar  Jew,  who  acted  as  storekeeper ; 
three  free  negro  servants,  and  four  camel-drivers.  They  were  also  ac- 
companied by  several  merchants  from  Mesurata,  Tripoli,  Sockna,  and 
Mourzuk,  who  gladly  eiabraced  the  protection  of  their  escort  to  proceed 
to  the  interior  with  their  merchandize.  The  procuring  of  camels  and 
supplies  for  the  long  journey  across  the  desert,  occupied  some  time,  and 
the  caravan  did  not  leave  Mourzuk,  finally,  until  the  29th  of  November. 

In  three  days  they  arrived  at  Gatrone,  whither  Oudney,  Clapperton, 
and  Hillman  had  already  proceeded,  hoping  to  improve  their  health  by 
the  change  of  air.  Denham  found  them  still  sick,  however,  especially 
the  last.  Mho  had  been  twice  given  over  by  the  doctor.  They  moved  on 
slowly  to  the  town  of  Tegerry,  the  last  place  in  Fezzan,  and  there  halted 
three  or  four  days  to  rest  the  sick,  as  beyond  this  they  should  travel  for 
fifteen  days  over  a  desert,  where  it  would  be  necessary  to  march  from 
sunrise  until  dark.  There  is  a  well  near  the  gate  of  the  fortress  of  Te- 
gerry, the  water  of  which,  the  travelers  were  gravely  informed,  always 
rose  when  a  caravan  was  coming  near  the  town.  The  inhabitants  stated 
that  they  always  prepared  what  they  had  to  sell,  on  seeing  this  Avater 
increase  in  bulk,  for  it  never  deceived  them.     "  In  proof  of  this  asser- 


PPERTON. 

alta,  and  the  port  I 
rming   ne  that  Boo- 
18  fov.hwith  to  bor- 
iiately  re-embarking, 
shores  of  Barbary." 
ted  for  Mourzuk,  by 
ber.    Boo-Khaloom'8 
Bred  the  town  in  great 
of  Tripoli  had  given 
iously  ill,  and  insisted 
I  am  quite  sure  you 
I  live ;  if  not,  nobody 
although  his  life  was 

•.    Boo-Khaloom,  who 
)  popular  in  the  place, 
ing  high  in  the  pasha's 
.,  shouting  and  singing, 
ointed  that  none  of  his 
that  they  had  all  been 
ton  had  not  yet  recov- 
ley  to  Ghraat,  the  chief 
b,  twenty  days'  journey 
d,  and  at  once  set  about 
ansisted  of  thirteen  per- 
man,  the  carpenter;  a 
pges  around  the  globe, 
0  acted  as  storekeeper ; 
•fl.    They  were  also  ac- 
ta, Tripoli,  Sookna,  and 
f  their  escort  to  proceed 
rocuring  of  camels  and 
ccupied  some  time,  and 
the  29th  of  November, 
ler  Oudney,  Clapperton, 
improve  their  health  by 
sick,  however,  especially 
doctor.    They  moved  on 
Fezzan,  and  there  halted 
is  they  should  travel  for 
lecessary  to  march  from 
;e  of  the  fortress  of  Te- 
;ravely  informed,  always 
The  inhabitants  stated 
ell,  on  seeing  this  water 
"  In  proof  of  this  asser- 


MAROH   ACROSS   THE    DESERT. 


467 


tion,"  says  Major  Dcnham,  "  they  pointed  out  to  me  how  much  higlier 
the  water  had  been  previous  to  our  arrival  than  it  was  at  tiie  moment  wo 
were  standing  on  the  brink.  This  I  could  have  cxplsuncd  by  the  num- 
ber of  camels  tliiit  had  drunk  at  it,  but  I  saw  it  was  better  iu)licy  to  be- 
lieve what  every  body  allowed  to  be  true.  Even  Boo-Klialoom  exclaim- 
ed :  '  Allah !  God  is  great,  powerful,  and  wise  !  How  wonderful ! 
Oh !' " 

On  the  13th  of  December  the  caravan  left  Tegerry,  and  entered  on 
a  desert  plain,  where  the  sick  were  constantly  disheartuned  by  the  sight 
of  the  skulls  and  skeletons  of  men  who  had  perished  on  the  sands.  On 
the  22d  Denham  writes :  "  During  the  last  two  days,  we  liave  passed  on 
an  average  from  sixty  to  eighty  or  ninety  skeletons  each  day  ;  but  the 
ni'.mbers  that  lay  about  the  wells  at  El-Hammar  were  countless.  Those 
of  two  women,  whose  perfect  and  regular  teeth  bespoke  them  young, 
were  particularly  shocking ;  their  arras  still  remained  clasped  around 
each  other  as  they  had  expired,  although  the  flesh  had  long  since  per- 
ished by  being  exposed  to  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun,  and  the  black- 
ened bones  only  left.  The  nails  of  the  fingers,  and  some  of  the  sinews  of 
the  hand,  also  remained,  and  part  of  the  tongue  of  one  of  them  still  ap- 
peared through  the  teeth."  Two  days  after  this,  one  of  Denham's  she- 
camels  foaled,  and  he  looked  forward  to  enjoying  the  milk,  which,  the 
Arabs  assured  him,  she  would  have  in  abundance ;  but  all  at  once  the 
animal  suddenly  fell  and  died.  "  The  evil-eye — the  evil-eye !"  the  Arabs 
exclaimed,  and  some  of  them  added :  "  She  was  sure  to  die.  I  knew 
it." — "  Well,  if  she  had  been  mine,  I  would  rather  have  lost  a  child,  or 
three  slaves !" — "  God  be  pi-aised  !  God  is  great,  powerful,  and  wise : 
those  looks  of  the  people  are  always  fatal." 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1823,  they  reached  a  little  oasis  called  Wady 
Ikbar,  and  were  cheered  by  the  sight  of  doum-palms  laden  with  fruit, 
and  grass  in  abundance.  Three  days  more  brought  them  to  the  village 
of  Anay,  the  first  Tibboo  town,  which  is  built  upon  the  summit  of  a  sand- 
stone rock,  a  hundred  feet  high.  The  inhabitants  ascend  by  means  of 
ladders,  which  they  d  raw  up  after  them,  whenever  they  are  attacked  by 
their  enemies,  the  Tuaricks.  The  Sultan  of  the  Tibboos  was  visituig 
another  village  in  the  neighborhood,  and  sent  word  to  Boo-Khaloom 
that  he  would  join  the  caravan  and  keep  company  with  him  as  far  as 
Bilma,  the  capital  of  his  country.  He  made  his  appearance  the  next 
day.  "  He  had  neither  much  majesty  nor  cleanliness  of  appearance :  he 
came  to  Boo-Khaloom's  tent,  accompanied  by  six  or  seven  Tibboos,  some 
of  them  really  hideous.  They  take  a  quantity  of  snuff,  both  in  their 
mouths  and  noses ;  their  teeth  were  of  a  deep  yellow ;  the  nose  resem- 
bles nothing  so  much  as  a  round  lump  of  flesh  stuck  on  the  face,  and 
the  nostrils  are  so  large  that  their  fingers  go  up  as  far  as  they  will  reach, 
in  order  to  insure  the  snuff  an  admission  into  the  head." 

After  entering  the  Tibboo  country,  the  villages  were  numerous ;  the 
sterile,  burning  desert  was  exchanged  for  a  broken  country,  intersected 


468 


TRAVELS 


OF    DENHAM    AND    CLAPPERTON. 


Wi 


■ 


m 


.  ,    ■,  1    i...v.tvallr>vq  the  beds  of  which  were  covered  with  grass 

:;^t:^°"o:;  o;^KSg'it  *gcMhe  u,haM.^.« »!».,.  ..«^ 

Mid  tiios.   y''°''/     .      "    i  „,,o„  within  about  My  paces  of  tho 

*■"''  SS:  t''n;:r     Bo'KS  c'L.,  U  ^ea  o„ 

r"  t?l?ho  d^minea  to  «nd  out  a  maraading  party  to  plunder 

the  road  that  he  ^«'^'"«V    ,„^^ji„„  which  was  Banctioned  by  tlic 

ilTafch  wL  Icept,  through  fear  that  the  owner,  would  endeavor  to 

attended  by  some      J  ^^  ^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^^^  ^   ^ 

r:X:  r^^dS^r  w^ng  theu^eVea  a^t  wUh    ; 

xng  eatures  whde  t^^^^^^^^  ^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^j^„g„,,,  A   ,, 

contrasted  with  the  glo^WacK^  ^^  ^^^.^  ^^^^^^  ^^^^^^.^^^ 

iCtlrtht fdiSf^^^^^^^^^  in  the  nose  and  large  amber  necU- 

KhaloonTtent  and  on  turning  over  the  prints  of  the  naUves,  h^  swo^-e 
and  exclaimed,  and  insisted  upon  it,  that  he  knew  every  face  Ih^  was 
L,.h  a  one's  slave— that  was  his  own ;  he  was  right ;  he  knew  t. 
WdreGod  foHhe  talents  he  gave  theEngUsh!  f  ^  were  ^Aa^''' 
oWer  exceedingly  clever.'  Of  a  landscape,  however,  I  fomid  that  he 
clcNei,  exceeoin  ly  i-  .^  understand  the  in- 

had  not  t^;«  i«-';;i«^^;X^^l^^^^^     the  deseit,  which  is  really  so 

:rreiierbyca;L"^ 

Wn    and  when  I  twice  reversed  it  for  him,  he  exclaimed    'Why 
?    '  ut  Tthe  same"    A  camel  or  a  human  figure  was  all  I  could 
2    hi:  uttunTand  at  these  he  was  all  agitation  and  deUght 
^f  wonderful!'    The  eyes  first  took  his  «"«f -' ^^^^^j^^^ 

under  similar  circumstances."  ,  ^ 

Beyond  Bilma  the  desert  commenced  again,  and  their  route,  lor 


nil 


'PERTON.  I 

e  covered  with  grass     ; 
l)itants  alwaya  camo     j 
It  fifty  paces  of  the    1 
Bort  of  drum,  which     i 
two  days  to  rest  at  a    j 
camels  had  fallen  on     i 
ling  party  to  plunder     , 
was  sanctioned  by  the     , 
to  the  proper  route, 
il  nights  afterward  a 
jrs  would  endeavor  to     , 

I 

e  reached  Bilma,  the     . 
ir  sultan,  who,  having 

a  mile  from  the  town 
ible  the  number  of  the 
ws  and  arrows,  and  all 
,  shaking  them  in  the 

all  moved  on  toward 
themselves  about  with 
inal.  They  were  of  a 
saving  extremely  pleaa- 
ar  teeth  was  beautifully 
Lnd  the  triangular  flaps 
f  their  faces,  streaming 
3  and  large  amber  neck-     ; 

in  Lyon's  book  in  Boo-  ; 
)fthe  natives,  he  swore, 
r  every  face:  'This  was 
an  right;  he  knew  it. 
iglish !  they  were  ahatr, 
wever,  I  found  that  ho 

him  understand  the  in- 
Icscit,  which  is  really  so 
would  look  at  it  upside 

he  exclaimed:  'Why! 
an  figure  was  all  I  could 
1  agitation  and  delight, 
attention,  then  the  other 
,ed,' Allah  1  Allah!'  and 
:e  is  the  powder?'  This 
mt  a  man,  excited  at  first 

d  an  European  have  felt 

ain,  and  their  route,  for 


FIRST    SIGHT    OF    LAKE    TCHAD. 


469 


several  days,  w.xs  over  broad  plains  of  billowy  sand,  witliniit  any  sijjn  of 
vegetation.  They  sometimes  found  wells  of  bitter  water  in  the  hollows, 
but  fi-cquently  saw  none  for  two  or  three  days  together.  Many  camels 
fell  and  died  on  this  march  ;  the  heat  was  very  oppressive ;  but  as  the 
sick  were  much  better  than  they  had  been,  the  travelers  were  all  in  good 
spirits. 

liy  this  time  they  had  passed  the  latitude  which  is  the  northern  limit 
of  the  tropical  rains,  and  "on  the  27th,"'  says  Major  Denham,  "  we  ap- 
peared to  be  gradually  approaching  something  resembling  vegetation  : 
we  had  rising  sands  and  clumps  of  fine  grass  the  whole  way,  and  the 
country  was  not  unlike  some  of  our  heaths  in  England.  Toward  even- 
ing the  trees  increased  greatly  in  number,  and  where  wo  halted  the 
animals  found  abundance  of  food.  The  tuUoh-trcc^,  the  kossorn  (a  very 
beautiful  parasitic  plant),  and  the  herbage,  were  most  refreshing  to  our 
parched  feelings,  although  in  reality  they  were  of  the  most  dingy  green 
and  stunted  appearance." 

RECEPTION    IN    BORNOU. 

On  the  31st  there  were  still  more  marked  signs  of  their  approach  to 
Bomou.  "We  reached  a  well  where  some  really  sweet  milk  was 
brought  to  us  in  immensely  large  basket  bottles,  some  holding  two  gal- 
lons or  more.  No  traveler  in  Africa  should  imagine  that  this  he  could 
not  bear,  or  that  could  not  be  endured.  It  is  Avonderful  how  a  man's 
taste  conforms  itself  to  his  necessities.  Six  months  ago,  camels'  milk 
would  have  acted  upon  us  as  an  emetic ;  now  we  thought  it  a  most 
refreshing  and  grateful  cordial.  The  face  of  the  co\mtry  improved  in 
appearance  every  mile.  We  passed  along  to-day  what  seemed  to  us  a 
most  joyous  valley,  smiling  in  flowery  grasses,  tulloh-trees,  and  kossom. 
About  mid-day,  we  halted  in  a  luxurious  shade,  the  ground  covered  Avith 
creeping  vines  of  the  colocynth  in  full  blossom,  which,  with  the  red 
flowers  of  the  kossom  which  drooped  over  our  heads,  made  our  resting- 
place  a  little  Arcadia."  Boo-Klialoom  now  judged  it  expedient  to  send 
a  messenger  in  advance  with  lettere  to  Shekh  El-Kanemy,  the  chief  of 
Bomou,  giving  news  of  the  approach  of  the  expedition. 

On  the  4th  of  February,  they  reached  the  town  of  Lari,  the  inhabit- 
ants of  which  fled  in  all  directions,  ui  the  greatest  terror,  on  perceiving 
the  caravan.  "  Beyond  the  town,  however,"  says  Major  Denham,  "  was 
an  object  fiill  of  interest  to  us,  and  the  sight  of  which  conveyed  to  my 
mind  a  sensation  so  gratifying  and  inspiring,  that  it  would  be  difficult  in 
language  to  convey  an  idea  of  its  force  or  pleasure.  The  great  Lake 
Tchad,  glowing  with  the  golden  rays  of  the  sun  in  its  strength,  appeared 
to  be  within  a  mile  of  the  spot  on  which  we  stood.  My  heait  bounded 
within  me  at  this  prospect,  for  1  believed  this  lake  to  be  the  key  to  the 
great  object  of  our  searcli,  and  I  could  not  refrain  from  silently  im- 
ploring Heaven's  continued  protection,  which  had  enabled  us  to  pro- 


i 


M 


':\. 


470 


TRAVELS  OF  DENRAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 


ceod  so  far  in  hoaltU  ami  strength,  even  lo  tlie  acconiplishment  of  onr 
task.  By  sun-rise  next  morning  I  was  on  the  borders  of  the  lake,  an  leil 
for  tlie  destruction  of  the  multitude  of  birds,  who,  all  unconscious  of  my 
purpose,  seemed  to  welcome  our  arrival.  Flocks  of  geese  and  vild 
ducks,  c/f  a  most  beautiful  plumage,  were  quietly  feeding  at  half  pistol- 
Khot  of  where  I  stood.  As  I  moved  toward  them  they  only  changed 
their  jilaces  a  little  to  tlie  right  or  left,  and  appeared  to  have  no  idea  of 
the  hostility  of  my  intentions.  Pelicans,  cranes,  four  and  five  feet  in 
height,  gray,  variegixted  and  white,  were  scarcely  so  many  yards  fro'n 
my  side,  and  a  bird,  between  a  snijte  and  a  woodpecker,  resembling 
both  and  larger  than  either;  immense  spoonbills  of  a  snowy  whiteness, 
widgeon,  ti-al,  yellow-legged  plover,  and  a  hundred  species  of  unknown 
water-fowl  were  sporting  before  me ;  and  it  was  long  before  I  could 
disturb  the  tranquillity  of  the  dwellers  on  these  waters  by  firing  a  gun. 


^.o*.*-' 


LAKE      TCHAD. 


"  In  the  evening  I  visited  the  town  of  Lari.  It  stands  on  an  emi- 
nence, and  may  probably  contain  two  thousand  inhabitants.  The  buts 
are  b\ult  of  the  rush  which  grows  by  the  sides  of  the  lake,  have  conical 
tops,  and  look  like  well-thatched  stacks  of  corn  in  England.  They  have 
neat  inclosures  around  them,  made  with  fences  of  the  same  reed,  and 
passages  leading  to  them  like  labyrinths.  In  the  indosuro  is  a  goat  or 
two,  poultry,  and  sometimes  a  cow.  The  womeiV Mere  almost  all  si>in- 
ning  cotton,  which  grows  well,  though  not  abundantly,  near  the  town 
and  lake.     The  interior  of  the  huts  is  neat.     They  are  comjjletely  circu- 


'PERTON. 

oiuplishmunt  of  onv 
rs  of  the  lake,  an  icd 
11  unconsciotis  of  my 

of  geese  and  vikl 
ueding  at  half  i)is*;ol- 
\  they  only  changed 
1  to  have  no  idea  of 
)dr  and  five  feet  in 
io  many  yards  fro  in 
dpecker,  resembling 
f  a  snowy  whiteness, 

species  of  unknown 
long  before  I  could 
ters  by  firhig  a  gun. 


'X  stands  on  an  emi- 
habitants.  The  buts 
;he  lake,  have  conical 
England.  They  have 
f  the  same  reed,  and 
nrlosuro  is  a  goat  or 
were  almost  all  spin- 
lantly,  near  the  town 
are  completely  circu- 


APPROACH    TO    KOUKA. 


471 


lar,  Avith  no  admission  for  air  or  light,  excei)t  at  the  door,  which  has  a 
mat  by  way  ol  safeguard.  I  entered  one  of  the  best  appearance, 
although  the  owner  gave  me  no  smiles  of  encouragement,  and  followed 
close  at  ray  heels,  with  his  sjiear  and  dagger  in  his  hand.  In  one  cor- 
ner stood  the  bed,  a  sofa  of  ruslies  lashed  together,  and  supported  by 
six  poles,  fixed  strongly  in  the  ground.  This  was  covered  \\  ith  the  skins 
of  the  tiger-oat  and  wild  bull ;  around  the  sides  were  hung  the  wooden 
bowls  used  for  water  and  milk  :  his  tall  shield  rested  against  the  wall. 
The  hut  had  a  division  of  mat-work,  one  half  being  alloted  to  the  female 
part  of  the  family." 

Two  days  after  this  they  arrived  at  the  town  of  Woodie,  where,  on 
account  of  Boo-Khaloom  and  his  Arabs,  it  was  necessary  to  wait  until 
the  shekh  of  Bornou  should  send  his  permission  to  proceed.  The  town 
is  about  one  mile  west  of  the  lake,  and  four  days'  march  from  Kotika, 
the  capital  of  Bornou.  The  people  have  fish  and  game  in  abimdanoe, 
and  are  very  indolent,  the  men  lying  idly  in  their  huts  from  morning  till 
night.  After  waituig  four  days,  two  of  the  shekh's  oflicers  arrived  with 
the  necessary  permission,  and  a  present  of  some  of  the  goroo  nuts  of 
Soudan,  which  have  an  agreeably  bitter  taste,  and  are  much  esteemed 
by  the  people  of  Tripoli.  After  eating  these  nuts,  water  has  a  grateful 
flavor,  be  it  ever  so  bad.  The  Arabs  call  them  the  coflfee  of  the  black 
country.  Proceeding  southward  for  two  days  more,  through  a  fertile, 
thickly-inhabited  country,  they  came  to  a  river  called  the  Yeou — a 
stream  fifty  yards  wide,  with  a  hard,  sandy  bottom,  and  flowing  eastward 
at  the  rate  of  three  and  a  half  miles  an  hour.  The  goods  and  passengers 
of  the  caravan  were  ferried  across  in  canoes,  to  which  the  bridles  of  the 
horses  and  camels  were  attached,  and  the  animals  made  to  swim. 

On  the  16th  of  February  the  expedition  halted  within  one  hour's 
march  of  Kouka,  in  order  to  make  the  entry  in  state  next  day.  Major 
Denham's  account  of  what  then  took  place  is  too  characteristic  and  in- 
teresting to  be  omitted.  "  This  was  to  us  a  momentous  day,"  he  writes, 
"  and  it  seemed  to  be  equally  so  to  our  conductors.  Notwithstanding 
all  the  difliculties  that  had  presented  themselves  at- the  various  stages  of 
our  journey,  we  were  at  last  within  a  few  short  miles  of  our  destination, 
were  about  to  become  acquainted  with  a  people  who  had  never  seen, 
or  scarcely  heard  of,  a  European,  and  to  tread  on  ground  the  knowledge 
and  true  situation  of  which  had  hitherto  been  wholly  unknown.  Our 
accounts  of  the  state  of  this  country  had  been  so  contradictory,  that  no 
opinion  could  be  formed  as  to  the  real  condition  or  the  numbers  of  its 
ujhabitants.  The  degree  of  credit  which  might  bo  attached  to  the  dif- 
ferent reports  was  nearly  balanced  in  the  scales  of  probability  ;  and  we 
advanced  toward  the  town  of  Kouka  in  a  most  interesting  state  of  un- 
certainty whether  we  should  find  its  chief  at  the  head  of  thousands,  or 
be  received  by  him  under  a  tree,  surrounded  by  a  few  naked  slaves. 

"  These  doubts,  however,  were  quickly  removed.    I  had  ridden  on 
a  short  distance  in  front  of  Boo-Khaloom,  with  his  train  of  Arabs,  all 


f" 


472 


TRAVELS   OP    DBNHAM    AND    CLAPPERTON. 


mounted  and  dressed  out  in  their  best  ai)parel,  and,  fiom  the  thickness 
of  the  trees,  soon  lost  sight  of  them,  fancying  that  the  road  could  not 
be  mistaken.    I  rode  stUl  onward,  and  on  approaching  a  spot  less  thickly 
l)lanted,  was  not  a  little  surprised  to  see  in  front  of  me  a  body  of  several 
thousand  cavalry  drawn  up  in  line,  and  extending  right  and  leR  as  for  as 
I  could  see  ;  and,  checking  my  horse,  I  awaited  the  arrival  of  my  party, 
under  the  shade  of  a  wide-spreading  acacia.     The  Bornou  troops  re- 
mained quite  steady,  without  noise  or  confusion  ;  and  a  few  horsemen, 
who  were  moving  about  in  front  giving  directions,  were  the  only  persons 
out  of  the  ranks.     On  the  Arabs  appearing  in  sight,  a  shout  or  yell  was 
given  by  the  shekh's  people,  which  rent  the  air.     A  blast  was  blown  from 
their  rude  instruments  of  music  equally  loud,  and  they  moved  on  to 
meet  Boo-Khaloom  and  his  Arabs.    There  was  an  appearance  of  tact 
and  management  m  their  movements  which  astonished  me.    Tliree  sep- 
arate small  bodies,  from  the  center  and  each  flank,  kept  charging  rapidly 
toward  us,  to  within  a  few  feet  of  our  horses'  heads,  without  checking 
the  speed  of  their  own,  until  the  moment  of  their  halt,  while  the  whole 
body  moved  onward.    These  parties  were  mounted  on  small  but  very 
perfect  horses,  which  stopped,  and  wheeled  from  their  utmost  speed  with 
great  precision  and  expertncss,  shaking  their  spears  over  their  heads, 
and  exclaiming:  '■Blessing!  blessing!  sons  of  your  country!  sons  of 
your  country ."  and  returning  quickly  to  the  front  of  the  body,  in  order 
to  r  jpeat  tu?  charge.    While  all  this  w.as  going  on,  they  closed  in  their 
riyht  and  left  ilanks,  and  surrounded  the  little  body  of  Arab  warriors  so 
completely,  as  to  ^ive  the  compliment  of  welcoming  them,  very  much 
ihe  appearance  of  contempt  for  their  weakness.    I  am  quite  sure  this 
was  premeditated.     Wo  were  all  so  closely  pressed  as  to  be  nearly 
smothered,  and  in  some  danger  from  the  crowding  of  the  horses  and 
the  clashing  of  the  spear;.    Moving  on  Avas  impossible,  and  we  therefore 
came  to  a  full  stop.    Our  chief  was  much  enraged,  but  it  was  all  to  no 
purpose  ;  he  was  only  answered  by  shrieks  of  '  Welcome  !'  and  spears 
most  unpleasantly  rattled  over  our  heads,  expressive  of  the  same  feeling. 
This  annoyance  was  not,  however,  of  long  duration.     Barca  Gana,  the 
shekh's  first  general,  a  negro  of  a  noble  aspect,  clothed  in  a  figured  silk 
tobe  and  mounted  on  a  beautiful  Mandara  horse,  made  his  appearance ; 
and  after  a  little  delay  the  rear  was  cleared  of  those  who  had  pressed 
in  upon  us,  and  we  moved  on. 

"The  shekh's  negroes,  as  they  were  called,  meaning  the  black  chiefs 
and  favorites,  all  raised  to  that  rank  by  some  deed  of  bravery,  were 
habited  in  coats  of  mail  composed  of  iron  cham,  which  covered  them 
from  the  throat  to  the  knees,  dividing  behind,  and  coming  on  each  side 
of  the  horse :  some  of  them  had  helmets,  or  rather  skull-caps,  of  the 
same  metal,  with  chin-pieces,  all  sufliciently  stron'*  to  ward  off  the  shock 
of  a  spear.  Their  horses'  heads  were  also  gj*^  ii'led  by  plates  of  iron, 
brass,  and  silver,  just  leaving  sufficient  room  for  the  eyes  of  the  animal. 
"At  length,  on  arriving  at  the  gate  of  the  town,  ourselves,  Boo- 


?PERTON. 

,  from  the  thickness 
the  road  could  not     , 
ng  a  spot  less  thickly     , 
me  a  body  of  several     j 
ight  and  left  as  far  as     . 
!  arrival  of  my  party,     j 
10  Bornou  troops  re-     | 
and  a  few  horsemen,     j 
were  the  only  persons     j 
t,  a  shout  or  yell  was     i 
L  blast  was  blown  from 
id  they  moved  on  to     ] 
m  appearance  of  tact     j 
shed  me.    Tliree  sep-     | 
kept  charging  rapidly     ; 
ads,  without  checking     | 

halt,  while  the  whole     | 
tod  on  small  but  very     , 
leir  utmost  speed  with     i 
3ar8  over  their  heads, 
our  country!  sons  of 
tofthebody,  in  order 
n,  they  closed  in  their 
dy  of  Arab  warriors  so 
»ming  them  very  much 

I  am  quite  sure  this     , 

•essed  as  to  be  nearly     , 
ling  of  the  horses  and 

isible,  and  we  therefore 
±  but  it  was  all  to  no 
Welcome!'  and  spears 
live  of  the  same  feeling, 
ition.    Barca  Gana,  the 

;lothed  in  a  figured  silk 

,  made  his  appearance ; 

;hose  who  had  pressed 

■leaning  the  black  chiefs 
J  deed  of  bravery,  were 
In,  which  covered  them 
Ind  coming  on  each  side 
[ather  skull-caps,  of  the 
)"  to  ward  off  the  shock 
ii'led  by  plates  of  iron, 
I  the  eyes  of  the  animal, 
town,  ourselves,  Boo- 


CEREMONIES    OP    RECEPTION. 


473 


1 


Khaloom  and  about  a  dozen  of  his  followers,  were  altme  allowed  to  enter 
the  gates  ;  and  we  proceeded  along  a  wide  street  completely  Uncd  with 
8j)carmen  on  foot,  with  cavalry  in  front  of  them,  to  the  door  of  the  shekh's 
residence.  Here  the  horsemen  were  formed  up  three  deep,  and  we 
caino  to  a  atand :  some  of  the  chief  attendants  came  out  and  after  a  great 
many  '  Jiurca !   bm'ca''s .''   retired,  when  others   performed   the    same 


H.<JR»,-G«.*-'<- 
BODY-OOARD  OP  THE  SHEKH  OP  BOENOU. 

ceremony.  "We  were  now  again  left  sitting  on  our  horses  in  the  sun; 
Boo-Khaloom  began  to  lose  all  patience,  and  swore  by  the  pasha's  head 
that  he  would  return  to  the  tents  if  he  was  not  immediately  admitted. 
He  got,  however,  no  satisfaction  but  a  motion  of  the  hand  from  one  of 
the  chiefs,  meaning  '  wait  patiently ;'  and  I  whispered  to  him  the  ne- 
cessity of  obeying,  as  we  were  hemmed  in  on  all  sides,  and  to  retire 
without  permission  would  have  been  as  difficult  as  to  advance.    Barca 


iff;'.}  Ill 


474  TRAVELS   OP    DENHAM    AND    CLAPPERTON. 

Gana  now  aupearea,  and  n.ul.  u  si.uM.  that  lioo-Khaloom  should  dis. 
m^t    wo  IL  about  to  follow  his  oxami-le,  when  an  mtinmt.on  hat 
Boo  KhaLotu  was  alone  t<,  bo  adnutted  agah.  fixed  us  to  our  saddle  . 
ArothXfhour  at  leant  passed  without  any  news  from  the  n.tenor  of 
ZhM^^r,  when  the  gates  oi^ened  and  the  tour  Enghshmen  o,«  y  wero 
euUed  fo    : Ld  we  advanced  to  the  entrance.     Here  we  were  stopped 
f:f  un^Jrcnoniously  by  the  black  guards  in  wait  n  j  andwen.  a^  .we<^ 
one  by  one  only,  to  ascend  a  staircase;  at  the  top  «f  ™y^«™ 
"  Vn>  bnlht  to  a  stand  by  crossed  spoars,  and  the  open  flat  hand  of  a 
;^"    1  id  tpon  our  breasts.     Boo-Khaloon.  came  from  the  -"-cham- 
ber and  asked.  '  If  we  were  prepared  to  salute  the  shekh  as  we  did  the 
,,a  ha-     Wo  replied,  '  Certahdy  ;'  which  was  merely  an  mchnation  of 
h    iK-ad,  and  laying  the  right  hand  on  the  heart      He  advxsed  our  lay- 
„..  our  lands  also  on  our  heads,  but  we  replied  that  the  tlung  wa.  m. 
po'slk-we  had  but  one  manner  of  salutation  for  any  body,  except  our 

""'VZi^'v^lej  now  took  place,  but  in  a  mmute  or  two  he  rcturnocl 
and  we  were  u^ered  into  the  presence  of  this  Shekh  of  fepears.    We 
Jound  him  in  a  small  dark  room,  sitting  on  a  carpet,  plainly  dressed  m  a 
blu    robe  of  Soudan  and  a  shawl  turban.    Two  negroes  were  on  each 
side  of  him,  armed  with  pistols,  and  on  his  carpet  l»y  ^  ^-- ^^ '^^^^^ 
uistruments.     His  personal  appearance  was  prepossessmg,  appaiently  not 
rorctlLty^        or  fort^iix,  with  an  expressive  countenance  and  a 
Eevolent  snie.    We  delivered  our  letter  from  the  pasha,  ^^  after  he 
had  read  it  he  inquired,   'What  was  our  object  m  commg?      We 
answered,  '  To  see  the  country  merely,  and  to  give  ^"^r^""*;/^*;^ 
habitants,  produce,  and  appearance,  as  our  sultan  was  dcsirou  of  know- 
in'  every  wt  of  he  globe.'    His  reply  was  that  we  were  welcome  and 
Whatever  he  could  shL  us  would  give  him  pleasure;  that  he  had  or- 
dered huts  to  be  buUt  for  us  in  the  town,  and  that  we  might  then  go, 
ac  ompanied  by  one  of  his  people,  to  see  them,    men  we  had  recov- 
ered from  the  fatigue  of  our  long  journey,  he  would  be  happy  to  see  us 
acain.    With  this  we  took  our  leave."  ,     .  , .  ,,     „♦ 

The  huts  were  little  rom.d  mud  buildings,  h.closcd  within  a  WfJl,  not 
far  from  the  shekh's  residence.    Here  the  travelers,  greatly  fatigued  with 
their  entree,  retired;  but  the  huts  were  immediately  crowded  with  curi- 
ous visitors  and  the'  heat  was  insufferable.    The  -^-\%^\^'^  l^^, 
received  a  summons  to  attend  the  shekh,  and  carried  Avith  them  then 
presents,  consisting  of  a   double-barreled  gun,  a  pair  of  pistols,  two 
pieces  of  superfine  broadcloth,  red  and  blue,  a  set  of  china,  and  two  bun- 
dies  of  spices.     The  ceremonies  of  entering  the  presence  were  even  more 
ridiculous  and  annoying  than  on  the  preceding  day.    They  passed  be- 
tween  double  lines  of  attendants,  who  caught  them  by  the  legs  when 
they  advanced  too  rapidly,  jerked  off  their  slippers,  and  seated  them  on 
a  raised  bench  of  earth.    The  shekh  received  the  presents  wi^i  evident 
satisfaction  and  again  questioned  them  as  to  the  object  of  their  visit. 


■ERTON. 

haloom  should  dis- 
1  an  intimation  that 

U9  to  our  saddles, 
from  the  interior  of 
iglishinen  oi''y  were 
re  we  were  stopped 
f,  and  were  allowed, 
p  of  which  we  were 
open  flat  hand  of  a 
■oni  the  inner  cham- 

shekh  as  we  did  the 
ely  an  inclination  of 

lie  advised  our  lay- 
at  the  thing  was  im- 
iny  body,  except  our 

,0  or  two  he  returned, 
lekh  of  Si)ear8.    We 
t,  plainly  dressed  in  a 
negroes  were  on  each 
t  lay  a  brace  of  these 
scssing,  apparently  not 
ive  countenance  and  a 
the  pasha,  and  after  he 
ct  in  coming?'     We 
re  an  account  of  its  in- 
was  desirous  of  know- 
we  were  welcome,  and 
isure ;  that  he  had  or- 
,hat  wo  might  then  go. 

When  we  had  recov-     1 
,uld  be  happy  to  see  us 

losed  within  a  wall,  not 
■s,  greatly  fatigued  with 
tely  crowded  with  curi- 
■  next  day  at  noon  they 
sarried  -svith  them  their 
a  pair  of  pistols,  two 
t  of  china,  and  two  bun- 
resence  were  even  more 
;  day.    They  passed  be- 
them  by  the  legs  wlicn 
3r8,  and  seated  them  on 
e  presents  with  evident 
le  object  of  their  visit. 


VISIT   TO   TUB   8ULTAN   OP  BORNOU. 


476 


lie  was  very  much  pleased  with  the  assurance  that  the  King  of  England 
had  heard  of  liornou  and  of  himself;  and,  immediately  turning  to  his 
cuuiisi'lor,  said,  "This  is  in  consequence  of  our  defeating  the  lleg- 
harmis ;"  upon  which,  the  chief  who  had  most  distinguished  himself  in 
tlie  battles,  Bagah  Furby  (the  gatherer  of  horses),  demandeil,  "  Did  he 
ever  hear  of  me?"  The  immediate  reply  of  "Certainly,"  did  wonders 
for  the  travelers :  there  was  a  general  exclamation,  and  the  cry  of  "  Ah, 
then,  your  king  must  bo  a  great  man !"  was  repeated  on  every  side. 

After  returning  to  their  residence  the  travelers  received  presents  of 
bullocks,  camel-loads  of  wheat  and  rice,  leathern  skins  of  butter,  jars  of 
honey,  bowls  filled  with  a  paste  made  of  barley-flour,  and  great  quanti- 
ties of  fresh  fish.  Tlierc  was  a  market  in  front  of  one  of  the  principal 
gates  of  the  town,  wliitih  was  attended  by  upward  of  fifteen  thousand 
people.  The  principal  live  stock  sold  here  was  slaves,  sheep,  and  bul- 
locks :  wheat,  rice,  and  sugar-cane  were  abundant,  together  with  tamar- 
inds, ground  nuts,  onions,  butter,  sour  milk,  and  honey.  There  was  also 
much  leather,  ocher,  indigo,  and  the  skins  of  serpents  and  crocodiles. 
Among  other  articles  offered  to  Denham  was  a  young  lion,  who  walked 
about  unconcernedly,  confined  only  by  a  small  rope  around  his  neck. 

On  the  2d  of  March,  lioo-Khaloom  went  to  a  town  called  Bimie,  for 
the  purpose  of  paying  his  respects  to  the  Sultan  of  Bomou,  who  resides 
there,  and  the  travelers  decided  to  accompany  him  They  passed 
through  Angornou,  a  town  of  about  thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  sixteen 
miles  from  Kouka.  Two  miles  beyond  it  was  Bimie,  a  walled  town, 
containing  about  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  Here  they  were  met  by  the 
sultan's  chamberlain,  who  ordered  a  large  tent  to  be  pitched  for  them, 
and  informed  theni  that  the  sultan  would  receive  them  at  sunrise  the 
next  morning.  In  the  evening,  a  most  plentiful,  if  not  delicate,  repast 
was  brotight  them,  consisting  of  seventy  dishes,  each  of  which  would 
have  dined  half  a  dozen  persons  of  moderate  appetites.  The  sultan  him- 
self sent  ten,  his  wives  thirty,  and  his  mother  thirty ;  the  meat  consisted 
of  mutton  and  poultry,  and  was  baked,  boiled,  and  stowed. 

"  Soon  after  daylight,"  says  Major  Denham,  "  we  were  summoned  to 
attend  the  Sultan  of  Bomou.  He  received  us  in  an  open  space  in  front 
of  the  royal  residence ;  wo  were  kept  at  a  considerable  distance,  while 
his  people  approached  to  within  about  one  hundred  yards,  passing  first 
on  horseback ;  and  after  dismounting  and  prostrating  themselves  before 
him,  they  took  their  places  on  the  ground  in  front,  but  with  their  backs 
to  the  royal  person,  which  is  the  custom  of  the  country.  He  was  seated 
in  a  sort  of  cage  of  cane  or  wood,  near  the  door  of  his  garden,  on  a  seat 
which  at  the  distance  appeared  to  be  covered  with  silk  or  satin,  and 
through  the  railing  looked  upon  the  assembly  before  him,  who  formed  a 
sort  of  semicircle  extending  from  his  seat  to  nearly  where  we  were  wait- 
ing. Nothuig  could  be  more  absurd  and  grotesque  than  the  figures  who 
formed  this  court.  Large  bellies  and  large  heads  are  indispensable  for 
those  who  serve  the  court  of  Bomou ;  and  those  who  unfortunately 


476  TRAVKL8   OF    DRNHAM    AND    CLAPPBRTON. 

possess  not  tlio  former  by  nature,  or  on  whom  lustiness  will  not  bo  forced 
by  eramniing,  make  up  the  deficiency  of  protuberance  by  a  wadding, 
which,  as  they  sit  on  the  horse,  gives  the  belly  the  cunous  appearance  of 
hanging  over  the  pummel  of  the  saddle.  When  the  courtiers,  to  he 
number  of  about  three  hundred,  had  taken  their  seats  in  front  of  the 
sultan,  wo  were  aUowed  to  approach  to  within  pistol-shot  of  the  spot 
where  he  was  sittuig,  and  desired  to  sit  down  ourselves,  whca  the  ughest 
black  that  can  be  imagined,  his  chief  eunuch,  the  only  person  who  ap- 
proached the  sultan's  seat,  asked  for  the  presents.  Boo-Khaloom's  were 
produced,  inclosed  in  a  largo  shawl,  and  were  earned  unopened  to  the 
presence.  Our  gUmpse  was  but  a  faint  one  of  the  sultan,  through  the 
lattice-work  of  his  paviUon,  sufficient,  however,  to  Bee  that  his  turban 
was  larger  than  any  of  his  subjects',  and  that  his  face,  from  the  nose 
downward,  was  completely  covered.  Immediately  after  the  ceremony 
we  took  our  departure  for  Angemou."  .„     m.     *        i  - 

On  returning  to  Kouka,  Dr.  Oudney  became  very  ill.    The  travelers 
were  greatly  annoyed  by  the  number  of  persons  who  crowded  their  huts 
from  mornbg  tiU  night.    Every  little  thing,  from  the  compass  to  the 
pen  and  ink,  from  the  watch  to  the  tin  drinking-cups,  excited  their 
curiosity;  and  as  they  now  became  bolder,  they  seized  liold  of  every 
thing  which  they  had  formerly  only  eyed  at  a  distance.    It  was  not, 
however,  their  curiosity  alone  which  was  cxcited-thc  possession  was 
coveted,  either  for  themselves  or  the  shekh,  of  every  article.    A  copy  of 
Captain  Lyon's  book,  the  fame  of  which  had  preceded  the  expedition,  in 
consequence  of  Dr.  Oudney  having  shown  it  to  some  merchants  at 
Mourzuk,  was  demanded  twenty  times  a  day.    It  produced  very  differ- 
ent eflfects,  but  in  all  astonishment  and  suspicion.    The  shekh  sent  one 
of  his  slaves  to  borrow  it,  that  he  might  sec  it  by  stealth,  not  wishing 
his  people  to  know  that  he  had  made  the  request.     He  also  asked  that 
some  rockets  might  be  sent  up,  in  order  to  surprise  and  overawe  some 
of  the  Shouaas,  his  former  enemies,  who  were  then  in  Kouka.     Ihe 
signal  was  given  by  his  chamberiain  lighting  a  wisp  of  straw  on  the  roof 
of  the  palace    The  first  rocket  went  up  perpendicularly,  with  fine  effect ; 
the  second,  depressed  a  Uttlc,  flew  over  the  town  at  the  height  of  a  hun- 
dred  yards,  and  bursting  in  its  course,  occasioned  a  universal  scream, 
which  lasted  for  some  seconds.  ,  i.  j 

On  the  10th  of  March,  Major  Denham  writes:  "This  day  I  had  a 
little  respite,  my  visiting-list  being  much  reduced  in  consequence  of  its 
being  maiket-day;  there  was,  as  usual,  an  abundance  of  all  necessaries, 
though  but  few  luxuries;  and,  as  the  people  got  more  accustomed  to 
my  appearance,  they  became  more  femUiar.  One  young  lady,  whose 
numerous  bracelets  of  elephant's  teeth,  heavy  silver  rings  on  each  side 
of  her  face,  coral  in  her  nose,  and  amber  necklace,  proclaimed  her  a  per- 
son of  wealth,  nunbly  jumped  off  her  bullock  and  tore  a  comer  from  my 
pocket-handkerchief,  as  she  said,  for  a  souvenir.  I  could  do  no  less  than 
request  her  to  accept  the  remainder  of  so  useful  an  appendage,  and  1 


-t;*^i***f 


PBRTON. 

jHS  will  not  bo  forced 
anco  by  a  wadding, 
urious  appearance  of 
the  courtiers,  to  the 
leats  in  front  of  the 
itol-shot  of  the  spot 
ve9,whc  a  the  ugliest 
only  person  who  ap- 
Boo-Khaloom'B  were 
ied  unopened  to  the 
I  sultan,  through  the 
Bce  that  his  turban 
s  face,  from  the  nose 
'  after  the  ceremony 

jry  ill.  The  travelort 
(lo  crowded  their  huts 
1  tho  compass  to  the 
ig-cups,  excited  their 
seized  hold  of  every 
listance.    It  was  not, 

\ the  possession  was 

,ry  article.    A  copy  of     j 
>dcd  the  expedition,  in     j 
,o  some  merchants  at     j 
,  produced  very  differ- 
Tlie  shekh  sent  one 
jy  stealth,  not  wishing 
t.     lie  also  asked  that 
iso  and  overawe  some 
then  in  Kouka.    The 
sp  of  straw  on  the  roof 
ularly,  with  fine  eflTect ; 
at  the  height  of  a  hun- 
ed  a  universal  scream, 

ss:  "This  day  I  had  a 
1  in  consequence  of  its 
ancc  of  all  necessaries, 
t  more  accustomed  to 
(ne  young  lady,  whose 
Iver  rings  on  each  side 
^,  procljumed  her  a  per- 
tore  a  comer  from  my 
I  could  do  no  less  than 
il  an  appendage,  and  I 


EXCURSION    TO    LAKK    TOIIAD. 


477 


was  happy  lo  sec  that  this  piece  of  gall  mil  ry  was  not  IohI,  even  upon 
savages.  Tliey  all  clapped  their  hands  and  cried,  'Marca!  barcal'and 
the  lady  herseilj  whoso  hands  and  face  were  really  running  down  with 
grease,  so  regardless  was  she  of  expense,  generously  poured  into  the 
sleeve  of  my  shirt  nearly  a  quart  of  ground  nuts." 

The  next  day  Major  Denhani  received  a  summons  from  tho  shekh,  to 
whom  a  report  had  been  made  of  a  musical  box,  which  played  or  stopped 
merely  by  a  motion  of  the  finger.  "  The  messenger  dec^Iared  he  was 
dying  to  see  it,  and  I  must  make  haste.  The  wild  exclamations  of  won- 
der and  screams  of  pleasure  which  this  piece  of  mechanism  drew  from 
the  generality  of  my  visitors  were  curiously  contrasted  in  the  person  of 
the  intelligent  shekh ;  he  at  first  was  greatly  astonished,  and  asked  sev- 
eral questions,  exclaiming,  '  Wonderful  I  wonderful !'  but  the  sweclnesa 
of  tho  Swiss  ra/iz  des  vachea  which  it  i)layed  at  last  overcame  every 
other  feeling ;  he  covered  his  face  with  his  hand,  listened  in  silence,  and 
on  one  man  near  hhn  breaking  tho  charm  by  a  loud  exclamation,  ho 
struck  him  a  blow  which  made  all  his  followers  tremble.  He  instantly 
asked  if  one  twice  as  largo  would  not  be  better.  I  said  :  '  Yos,  but  it 
would  be  twice  as  dear.'  'By  Allah!'  said  he,  *  if  one  thousand  dollars 
would  purchase  it,  it  would  be  cheap.'  Who  will  deny  that  nature  has 
given  us  all  a  tasto  for  luxuries  ?" 

The  instrument  was  presented  to  the  shekh,  who  was  so  delighted 
that  he  gave  Major  Denham  i^crmission  to  visit  Lake  Tchad,  and  sent 
seven  of  his  servants  to  attend  him.  After  a  ride  of  fifteen  miles,  they 
reached  tho  shore  -  ihe  lake,  tho  waters  of  which  stretched  away  to 
the  horizon.  In  the  grass  marshes,  thotisands  of  cattle  belonging  to  tho 
shekh  were  peacefully  grazing.  Tho  traveler  encamped  near  the  water, 
in  spite  of  the  remonstrances  of  his  attendants,  but  was  soon  driven  away 
by  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes  which  assailed  him.  In  the  evening,  he  saw 
a  herd  of  forty  wild  elephants.  Tho  next  day,  while  he  was  shooting 
water-fowl,  news  of  three  very  large  elephants  was  brought  to  him,  and 
he  immediately  resolved  to  attack  them.  "  One  was  an  immense  fellow, 
I  should  suppose  sixteen  feet  high ;  the  other  two  were  females,  and 
moved  away  rather  quickly,  while  the  male  kept  in  the  rear,  as  if  to 
guard  their  retreat.  We  wheeled  swiftly  around  him ;  and  Maraymy 
casting  a  spear  at  him,  which  struck  him  just  under  the  tail,  and  seemed 
to  give  him  about  as  much  pain  as  when  we  prick  our  finger  with  a  pin, 
the  huge  beast  threw  up  his  proboscis  in  the  air  with  a  loud  roar,  and 
from  it  cast  such  a  volume  of  sand,  that,  unprepared  as  I  was  for  such  an 
event,  nearly  blinded  me.  Tlio  elephant  rarely,  if  ever,  attacks,  and  it 
is  only  when  irritated  that  he  is  dangerous ;  but  he  will  sometimes  rush 
upon  a  man  and  horse,  after  choking  them  with  dust,  and  destroy  them 
in  an  instant." 

After  an  absence  of  three  days.  Major  Denham  returned  to  Kouka, 
where  he  received  unwelcome  news.  "  The  horse  which  had  carried  me 
from  Tripoli  to  Mourzuk,  and  back  again,  and  on  which  I  had  ridden  the 


478 


TllAVELS    OF    DENHAM    AND    OLAPPERTON. 


whch-  joiinicy  from  Tripoli  to  Boniou,  bml  du^d,  a  very  fow  hours  (xftor 
my  ilcpiirturf  for  tlio  Iftite.  There  arc  situations  in  a  mim's  hto  m  which 
losses  of  this  nature  are  felt  most  keenly  ;  aiul  this  was  one  of  thorn.  It 
was  not  j,'rief,  hut  it  was  something  very  nearly  approaehins  to  it ;  and 
thotiL'li  I  felt  ashamed  of  the  degree  of  derangement  which  I  suffered 
from  it,  yet  it  was  several  days  before  I  could  get  over  the  loss.  Let  it 
be  however  remembered,  that  the  iwior  animal  had  been  my  support  and 
coinfi.rt— may  1  not  say  companion  ?— through  inany  a  dreary  day  and 
night ;  ha.l  endured  both  hunger  and  thirst  in  my  service  with  the  ut- 
most patience  ;  was  so  docile,  though  an  Arab,  that  ho  would  stand  still 
for  hours  in  the  desert,  while  1  slept  In'tween  his  legs,  his  body  aflording 
me  the  only  shelter  that  could  be  obtained  from  the  powerful  influence 
of  a  noonday  sun  ;  ho  was  yet  the  aeetest  of  the  fleet,  and  ever  foremost 
in  the  race." 


DRNHAM'S    MILITARY    EXCURSION    TO    MANDARA. 

The  party  had  now  been  more  than  a  month  in  Kouka,  without  hav- 
ing  made  any  apparent  advance  in  the  object  of  their  mission.    The  de- 
termination  of  the  shekh  seemed  to  be,  not  to  permit  them  to  go  beyond 
the  borders  of  Bornou.    They  were  not  disheartened  by  the  suspicion 
and  distrust  with  which  they  were  met,  but  endeavored,  by  patience  and 
the  utmost  prudence  in  their  conduct,  to  win  by  degrees  the  contidenco 
of  the  shekh  and  people.    Their  situation  at  this  time  was  rendered  more 
embarrassing  by  difficulties  which  had  arisen  between  Boo-Khaloom  and 
the  other  Arab  chieftains.    The  shekh  was  planning  an  expedition  against 
the  Fellatas  living  beyond  Mandara,  a  country  to  the  south  of  Bornou, 
for  the  purpose  of  capturing  slaves,  and  promised  to  Send  Boo-Khaloom 
and  his  men,  with  Barca  Gana,  who  was  to  command  the  party.    Major 
Denham  determined  to  go  likewise,  as  the  country  to  be  visited  was 
entirely  unknown  ;  but  the  shekh,  at  first,  seemed  determined  to  thwart 
his  wishes.    On  the  8th  of  April,  the  expedition,  under  Barca  Gana, 
proceeded  to  Angomou,  whence  it  was  to  move  southward  on  the  14th. 
Denham  now  lost  no  time  in  consulting  one  of  the  shekh's  counselors, 
who  professed  to  bo  his  friend,  promising  to  give  him  $50  if  ho  would 
jjrocure  a  permit  for  him  to  go.    He  also  had  another  interview  with  the 
shekh,  to  whom  he  jestingly  said  that  if  he  did  not  wish  him  to  go,  he 
must  imt  him  in  irons.    These  promises  and  importunities  were  not  with- 
out effect ;  the  same  night,  Maraymy,  one  of  the  sultan's  black  slaves, 
who  had  accompanied  Major  Denham  to  Lake  Tchad,  came  to  him  after 
midnight,  and  urged  him  to  leave  at  once  for  Angomou.    On  the  way 
thither,  Maraymy  stated,  confidentially,  that  the  shekh  had  desired  him 
not  to  leave  him,  but  that,  if  Denham  persisted  in  joining  the  expedition, 
he  was  to  conduct  him  to  the  camp  as  quickly  as  possible,  and  give  him 
into  the  charge  of  Barca  Gana. 


I 


'PKUTON. 

very  fi-w  hours  after 
i\  iniUi'H  li»o  in  which 
was  ono  of  thorn.    It 
|i|irottfhinR  to  it ;  nnd 
ni'iit  which  I  Buffered 
over  thi'  I08B.    Li't  it 
bi'on  my  support  ftnd 
my  ft  dnciry  day  and 
ly  Hervice  with  tho  ut- 
it  ho  would  stand  still 
|.gs,  his  body  affording 
lu)  powerful  influonco 
eet,  and  ever  foremost 


TO    MANDAUA. 

n  Koiika,  without  hav- 
hoir  mission.    The  de- 
mit them  to  go  beyond 
rtened  by  the  suspicion 
avored,  by  patience  and 
degrees  the  contideiico 
ime  was  rendered  more 
veen  Boo-Khaloom  and 
g  an  expedition  against 
o  the  south  of  Bornou, 
i  to  flend  Boo-Khaloom 
land  the  party.    Major 
mtry  to  be  visited  was 
d  determined  to  thwart 
on,  under  Barca  Gana, 
southward  on  the  14th. 
the  shekh's  counselors, 

him  150  if  he  would 
jther  interview  with  the 
not  wish  him  to  go,  he 
jrtunities  were  not  with- 
le  sultan's  black  slaves, 
'chad,  came  to  him  after 
Vngomou.  On  the  way 
siiekh  had  desired  him 
n  joining?  the  expedition, 

possible,  and  give  him 


vf*A^'Mk%^ 


Sa2Ii£SBt^lll. 


AFRICAN    ORDKR    OP    MARCH. 


479 


This  hint  was  (|uit«i  sufficiont  for  Major  Detdiam.  Tlu-y  roa<'hed  An- 
gomou  before  Hunrisc,  nnd,  finding  that  the  cxpt'tlition  had  marrhcd  on 
to  a  town  about  thirty-five  miles  to  the  south,  whore  it  would  halt  a  day, 
dotennined  to  resume  their  journey  at  onoo,  and  overtake  it.  On  the 
evening  of  the  next  day,  the  17th,  they  reached  a  town  called  Mcrty, 
near  which  they  discovered  the  tents  of  the  Uornouese  camp.  Miiraymy 
at  once  conducted  Major  Denham  to  Barca  Gana,  who,  lie  says,  "  re- 
ceived me  with  a  great  deal  of  civility  in  his  tent,  although  ho  kept  nio 
several  minutes  waiting  outside,  until  he  ha<l  summoned  h'm  /ij/fii,  or 
charm-writer — an  indispensable  |)crson — and  one  or  two  of  his  chiefs,  to 
attend  him.  ♦  If  it  was  the  will  of  God,'  lio  said,  '  I  should  come  to  no 
harm,  and  lie  would  do  all  in  his  power  for  my  convenience.'  A  spot 
w.-is  api)ointed  for  my  tent  near  his  own ;  and  I  took  my  leave  in  order 
to  visit  the  Arabs.  The  cheers  they  all  gave  me,  and  the  hearty  shako 
of  the  hand  of  Boo-Khaloom,  made  mo  regret  that  I  was  not  to  bo 
among  them,  in  spite  of  all  their  bad  qualities  Boo-Khaloom  repeat- 
edly exclaimed :  '  I  knew  you  would  come ;  I  said  you  would  by  some 
means  or  other  join  us.' " 

Tlie  next  morning  tho  tents  were  struck  before  sunrise,  .ind  M.ijor 
Denham  rode  off  by  the  side  of  Barca  Gano,  in  full  march  for  Mandara. 
They  advanced  thirty-four  miles  that  day,  and  reached  a  walled  town 
called  Deegoa,  with  a  population  of  thirty  thousand.  The  following  is 
the  description  of  tho  order  of  march  :  "  Chiefs  in  this  part  of  Africa  are 
accompanied  by  as  many  personal  followers  as  they  think  proper  to 
maintain,  both  as  horse  and  footmen :  some  of  them  form  the  band,  if  I 
may  so  call  it.  Barca  Gona  had  five  mounted,  who  kept  close  behind 
him,  three  of  whom  carried  a  sort  of  drum,  which  hangs  around  their 
necks,  and  beat  time  while  they  sang  extempore  songs;  one  carried  a 
small  pipe  made  of  a  reed,  and  the  other  blew,  ou  a  buffalo's  horn,  loud 
and  deep-toned  blasts,  as  wo  moved  through  the  wood ;  but  by  far  the 
most  entertaining  and  useful  were  the  running  footmen,  who  preceded 
the  kashella,  and  acted  as  pioneers ;  they  were  twelve  in  number,  and 
carried  long  forked  poles,  with  which  they,  with  great  dexterity,  kept 
back  the  branches  as  they  moved  on  at  a  quick  paoe,  constantly  keeping 
open  a  path,  which  without  them  would  really  have  been  scarcely  pass- 
able. Besides,  they  were  constantly  crying  out  something  about  the 
road,  or  the  expedition,  as  they  went  on.  For  example :  '  Take  care  of 
the  holes ! — Avoid  the  branches ! — ^Here  is  the  road ! — ^Take  care  of  tho 
tulloh ;  its  leaves  are  like  spears — ^worse  than  spears !'  '  Keep  off  the 
branches  I'  'For  whom?'  'Barca  Gana!' — 'Who  in  battle  is  like 
roUing  of  thunder?'  'Barca  Gana!' — 'Now  for  Mandara!— now  for 
the  Kerdies! — now  for  the  battle  of  spears!  Who  is  our  leader?' 
'  Barca  Gana !' — '  Here  is  the  wady,  but  no  water !  God  be  praised ! — 
In  battle,  who  spreads  terror  around  him  like  a  buffalo  in  his  rage  ?' 
'  Barca  Gana !'  " 

After  several  days  of  severe  travel,  the  heat  being  sometimes  113° 


480 


TRAVELS  OF  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 


in  the  sliade,  tlic  army  approached  tlic  capital  of  the  country  of  Man- 
dara,  and  received  a  message  from  the  sultan,  who  stated  that  he  would 
meet  it  next  day  on  his  way  to  Mora,  his  residence.  The  first  town  of 
Mandara  was  Delow,  a  place  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  "  About  a 
mile  from  his  to^vn,"  says  Major  Denham, "  we  saw  before  us  the  Sultan 
of  Mandara,  sarrounded  by  about  five  hundred  horsemen,  posted  on  a 
rising  ground  ready  to  receive  us,  when  Barca  Gana  instantly  com- 
manded a  halt.  The  sultan's  guard  was  composed  of  thirty  of  his  sons, 
all  mounted  on  very  superior  horses,  clothed  in  striped  silk  tobes,  and 
the  skins  of  the  tiger-cat  and  leopard  forming  their  shabracks,  which 
liung  fully  over  tlieir  horses'  haunches.  After  these  had  returned  to 
their  station  in  front  of  the  sultan,  we  approached  at  full  speed  in  our 
turn,  halting  with  the  guard  between  us  and  the  royal  presence.  The 
parley  then  commenced,  and  the  object  of  Boo-Khaloom's  visit  having 
been  explained,  we  retired  again  to  the  place  we  had  left ;  while  the  sul- 
tan returned  to  the  town,  preceded  by  several  men  blowing  long  pipes 
not  imlike  clarionets,  ornamented  with  shells,  and  two  iimnense  trum- 
pets from  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  long." 


ARRIVAL    AT    MORA,    IN     MANDARA. 


"  Toward  evening,"  Denham  continues,  "  Barca  Gana  sent  to  desire     l 
;    me  to  mount,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  sultan.    We  entered  the 
.    town,  Boo-Khaloom  and  myself  riding  on  Iiis  right  and  left.    At  the     | 


EBTON. 

'i  country  of  Man- 
.tcd  that  lie  would 
The  first  town  of 
itants.     "About  a 
;foro  us  the  Sultan 
icracn,  posted  on  a 
ana  instantly  com- 
'  thirty  of  his  sons, 
)ed  silk  tobes,  and 
ir  shabracks,  which 
30  had  returned  to 
at  full  speed  in  our 
»yal  presence.    The 
aloom's  visit  having 
1  left ;  while  the  sul- 
blowing  long  pipes 
two  iiouxcnse  trum- 


ca  Gana  sent  to  desire 
itan.  We  entered  the 
ght  and  left.    At  the 


THE    SULTAN    OP   MANDARA. 


481 


further  end  of  a  largo  square  was  the  sultan's  palace.  Aa  is  usual  on 
approaching  or  visiting  a  great  man,  we  galloped  up  at  full  speed,  almost 
entering  the  gates.  This  is  a  perilous  sort  of  salutation,  but  nothing 
must  stop  you :  and  it  is  seldom  made,  except  at  the  expf^nsc  of  one  or 
more  lives.  On  this  occasion,  a  man  and  horse  which  stood  in  our  way, 
were  ridden  over  in  an  instant,  the  horse's  leg  broken,  and  the  man 
killed  on  the  spot.  Tho  trumpets  soimded  as  we  dismounted  at  the 
palace  gate ;  our  papouches,or  outward  slippers,  were  quickly  pulled  off; 
and  wo  proceeded  through  a  wide  entrance,  into  a  large  court,  where, 
under  a  dark  blue  tent  of  Soudan,  sat  the  sultan,  on  a  mud  bench,  cov- 
ered, however,  with  a  handsome  carpet  and  silk  pillows.  He  was  sur- 
rounded by  about  two  hundred  peraons,  all  handsomely  dressed  in  tobes 
of  silk  and  colored  cotton,  with  his  five  eunuchs,  the  principal  men  of 
the  country  sitting  in  front,  but  all  with  their  backs  turned  toward  him. 
The  manner  of  saluting  is  curious.  Barca  Gana,  as  the  shekh's  repre- 
sentative, approached  to  a  space  in  front  of  the  eunuchs,  his  eyes  fixed 
on  the  ground :  he  then  sat  down,  his  eyes  still  fixed  on  the  earth,  with 
his  back  to  the  sultan,  and,  clapping  his  hands  together,  exclaimed : 
*Migouborou  dagah!''  (May  you  live  forever!)  ^ Allah  kiaro I''  (God 
send  you  a  happy  old  ago !)  'Xa,  lai  f  barca  !  barca  /♦  (How  is  it  with 
you  ?  blessing !  blessing !)  These  words  were  repeated  nearly  by  the 
sultan,  and  then  sung  out  by  all  tho  court. 

"  The  sultan,  whose  name  Avas  Mohammed  Bukr,  was  an  intelligent 
little  man  of  about  fifty,  -with  a  beard  dyed  of  a  most  beautiful  sky-blue. 
He  had  been  eyeing  me  for  some  time,  as  I  sat  between  Boo-Khaloom 
and  Barca  Gana,  and  first  asking  Boo-Khaloom  his  name,  inquired  who 
I  was  ?  Tlie  answer  that  I  was  a  native  of  a  very  distant  and  powerful 
nation,  friends  of  the  pasha  of  Tripoli  and  the  shekh,  who  came  to  see 
the  country,  did  not  appear  much  to  surprise  him ;  and  he  looked  graci- 
ous as  he  said :  '  But  what  does  he  want  to  see  ?'  A  fatal  question  fol- 
lowed, however,  and  the  answer  appeared  to  petrify  the  whole  assembly. 
— '  Are  they  Moslem ?'  '^La!  la!'*  (No !  no !)  Every  eye,  which  had 
before  been  turned  toward  me,  was  now  hastily  withdrawn,  and,  looking 
round,  I  really  felt  myself  m  a  critical  situation.  '  Has  the  great  pasha 
infidel  friends?'  asked  the  sultan.  The  explanation  which  followed  was 
of  little  use :  they  knew  no  distinctions :  Chriutians  they  had  merely 
heard  of  as  the  worst  people  in  the  world,  and  probably,  imtil  they  saw 
me,  scarcely  believed  them  to  be  human.  We  shortly  after  returned  to 
our  camp,  and  I  never  afterward  was  invited  to  enter  the  Sultan  of  Man- 
dara's  presence." 

It  had  been  Boo-Khaloom's  expectation  that  he  would  besentagjunst 
some  of  the  Kerdies,  or  tribes  of  negroes  who  inhabit  the  mountains,  in 
order  to  capture  slaves :  but  he  soon  discovered  that  the  intention  of  the 
Shekh  of  Bomou,  aided  by  the  Sultan  of  Mandara,  was  to  send  him 
against  the  warlike  Felatahs,  and  give  his  Arabs  a  taste  of  their  arrows 
and  spears.   The  people  of  a  country  called  Musgow,  lying  to  the  south- 

31 


482  TRAVELS   OF   DKNl.AM    ASD   CLAPPEBTON. 

::iti!:;:x  -«-x- -  -^!- r^r.^  lxs 

thoy  throw  themselves  «"f «  gJ^'T^^  ^^ir  heads,  vhich  were  covered 

assured  were  the  teeth  of  the  ™"f  ^^   ,       ,1^^^^^  j^eks  of  their 

and  pieces  of  bone  were  f «  P;";^;;";,^^,!^^^^^^  n^arked  in 

hair,  nnd,  with  '^ l^lClZflh^^^^^^  -ore  stained),  they 

diflerent  places  (which  color  also  inui  u  ^^at  very 

„»„y  haa  a  -' -^^^^^  ^  U  tat^S^S -^^n  ^hr^ng.  who  we/e 
mucli  mcrcased  «"«  ■"«"°»' J  °  I  ta  po.Wv»  a8«ertion  of  Boo-Khaloom 
the  moat  savage  of  their  race,  »a«t  no  po.  beginng  permission 

that  they  were  Christians!  S«"^»f  «h«".J»"»'^'.""S8  /jf^  i„^„ 
to  regal?  .hen,«>lvo,  on  the  -"-»»/ "Jn^'^^terllo  argnmcnl 
t.e  night  in  oarcampgajem^,^^^^^^^^  f°'««'  f'  *'" 

against  lum.  I  can  ^^^'^'^^'y.' 7;\ ^  '  •  nothing:  I  certainly  never 
concerted  I  felt  when  ho  replied :    Tl»atJ  "o^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^,  ,^^^ 

licard  of  Christians  eating  dead  horse-flosh,  but  1  know  tnai;       y 
flesh  of  swine,  and  God  knows  J^f  /^^^^^^^  ^  ^.,,,,„,  i,„,Heane 

monntainj  ««eh,  '»' f '"^  "C  W  Se  I  tL  ^L  of  Ho,^ 

Sred  ho,^,  with  severa.  -ar^  ^^  ™*  "^f^C  ,wf a'5 
his  six  favorite  eunuchs,  and  thirty  ot  his  sons,  au  uiicijr 
blunted  on  really  superb  horses.  Barca  Gana's  P-P^;^-  Vad  a 
red  scarfs,  or  bomouses,  over  the  r  «t««\J'^'=^P\«' ^?l,*f  T.^^  ^%^^ 
vorv  fine  effect  I  took  my  position  at  his  right  hand,  and  at  a  spoL 
cZd  DuS-  we  entered  a  very  thick  wood,  in  two  eolmnas,  at  the 


JRTON. 

;e(l  against  them, 
\o  hundred  slaves, 
:  "  I  saw  them  on 
on  their  entrance, 
)n  their  heads,  and 
rhich  were  covered 
Ate  over  theii  eyes, 
fox-like  pnimal,  and 
ngs  of  what  I  was 
tin  in  battle :  teeth 
,tted  lucks  of  their 
;i('S  were  marked  in 
were  stained),  they 
trance.    What  very 
■se  beings,  who  were 
tion  of  Boo-Khaloom 
,  begging  permission 
iiich  had  died  during 
answerable  argument 
ment  forget  how  dis- 
ig:  I  certainly  never 
now  that  they  eat  the 

ch  a  violent  hurricane 
rocks  from  the  mount- 
he  order  was  given  to 
,rca  Gana  nnd  the  Sul- 
airey,  in  the  Mandara 
surrounded  by  rugged 
rht  be  compared  to  the 
red  the  pass  of  Horza, 
e    overhimg  on  either 
five  hundred  feet  high. 

10  for  an  attack  on  the 
cs  distant.  The  chiefs 
d  the  hammers  of  the 

11  night. 

eon  the  morning  of  the 

itself.  The  Sultan  of 
a  very  beautiful  cream- 
it  him,  and  followed  by 
),  all  finely  dressed  and 
8  people  all  wore  their 
ts,  and  the  whole  had  a 
rht  hand,  and  at  a  spot 
'in  two  columns,  at  the 


BATTLE    WITH   THE    FELATAHS. 


483 


end  of  which  it  was  said  wo  were  to  find  the  enemy.  *  *  ♦  On 
emerging  from  the  Avood,  tlie  large  Felatah  town  of  DirkuUa  was  per- 
ceivable, and  the  Arabs  were  formed  in  front,  headed  by  Boo-Khaloom  ; 
they  were  flanked  on  cacli  side  by  a  large  body  of  cavalry,  and  as  tliey 
moved  on,  sliouting  the  Arab  war-cry,  which  is  very  inspiring,  I  thought 
I  could  perceive  a  smile  pass  between  Barca  Gana  and  his  chiefs,  at  Boo- 
Khaloom's  expense.  Dirkulla  was  quickly  burned,  and  another  smaller 
town  near  it ;  and  the  few  inhabitants  wlio  were  found  in  them,  who 
were  chiefly  infants  and  aged  persons  unable  to  escape,  were  put  to 
death  without  mercy,  or  thrown  into  the  flames." 

They  now  came  to  a  third  town,  called  Musfeia,  built  in  a  very  strong 
position  between  two  low  hills,  with  a  swamp  in  front,  beyond  which 
were  several  deep  ravines,  impassable  for  more  than  two  or  three  horse- 
men at  a  time.  Tlie  town  Avas  also  surrounded  with  a  strong  fence  of 
pointed  palissades,  fastened  together  with  thongs  of  raw  hide.  The 
Arabs,  unsupported  by  either  the  Bomou  or  Mandara  troops,  moved  on 
gallantly,  and,  in  spite  of  showers  of  poisoned  arrows,  drove  away  the 
Felatahs,  who  retreated  up  the  hills,  where  they  rolled  down  huge 
masses  of  rock  on  their  pursuers.  Barca  Gana,  with  about  one  hundred 
spearmen,  now  moved  up  to  the  assistance  of  Boo-Khaloom  ;  but  the 
Sultan  of  Mandara,  and  the  remainder  of  the  army,  kept  out  of  the 
reach  of  the  arrows,  on  the  other  side  of  the  ravines.  "The  Felatahs, 
finally,  seeing  their  backwardness,  now  made  an  attack  in  turn ;  the 
arrows  fell  so  thick  that  there  was  no  standing  against  them,  and  tlie 
Arabs  gave  way.  The  Felatah  horse  now  came  on,  and  had  not  the 
little  band  around  Barca  Gana  and  Boo-Khaloom,  with  a  few  of  his 
mounted  Anabs,  given  them  a  very  spirited  check,  not  one  of  us  wotild, 
probably,  have  lived  to  see  the  following  day.  As  it  was,  Barca  Gana 
had  three  horses  hit  under  him,  two  of  which  died  almost  immediately, 
the  arrows  being  poisoned ;  and  poor  Boo-Khaloom's  horse  and  himself 
received  their  death-wounds.  My  horse  was  badly  wounded  in  the 
neck,  just  above  the  shoulder,  and  in  the  near  hind  leg :  an  arrow  had 
struck  me  in  the  face  as  it  passed,  merely  drawing  the  blood,  and  I  had 
two  sticking  in  my  bomous.  No  sooner  did  the  Mandara  and  Bomou 
troops  sec  the  defeat  of  the  Ar,ibs,  than  they,  one  and  all,  took  to  flight, 
in  the  most  dastardly  manner,  without  having  been  once  exposed  to 
the  arrows  of  the  enemv,  and  in  the  utmost  confusion.  The  Sultan  of 
Mandara  led  the  way. 

"  I  now,  for  the  first  time,  as  I  saw  Barca  Gana  on  a  fresh  horse,  la- 
mented my  own  folly  in  so  exposing  myself,  badly  prepared  as  I  was  for 
accidents.  If  either  of  ray  horse's  wounds  were  from  poisoned  arrows, 
I  felt  that  nothing  could  save  me ;  however,  there  was  not  much  time 
for  reflection.  We  instantly  became  a  flying  mass,  and  plunged,  in  the 
greatest  disorder,  into  that  wood  we  had  but  a  few  hours  before  moved 
through  with  order,  and  very  different  feelings.  I  had  got  a  little  to 
the  westward  of  Barca  Gana,  in  the  confusion  which  took  place  ou  our 


^- 


4M 


TRAVELS  OP  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 


passing  the  ravine,  where  upward  of  one  huntlred  of  the  Bomouese  wore 
speared  by  the  Felatahs,  and  waa  following  at  a  round  gallop  the  steps 
of  one  of  the  Mundara  eunuchs,  who,  I  observed,  kept  a  good  look-out, 
his  head  being  constantly  turned  over  his  left  shoulder,  with  a  face  ex- 
pre»sivc  of  the  greatest  dismay,  when  the  cries  behind,  of  the  Felatah 
horse  pursuing,  made  us  both  quicken  our  paces.  The  spur,  iiowever, 
had  the  effect  of  incapacitating  my  beast  altogether,  as  the  arrow,  I 
found  afterward,  had  reached  the  shoulder-bone,  and  in  passing  over 
sonic  rough  ground  ho  stumbled  and  fell.  Almost  before  I  was  upon  my 
legs,  the  Felatahs  were  upon  me.  1  had,  however,  kept  hold  of  the 
bridle,  and  seizing  a  pistol  from  the  holsters,  I  presented  it  at  two  of 
tliose  ferocious  savages,  who  were  pressing  me  with  their  spears.  Tliey 
instantly  went  off";  but  another,  who  came  on  mo  more  boldly,  just  as 
I  was  endeavoring  to  mount,  received  the  contents  somewhere  in  his  left 
shoulder,  and  again  I  was  enabled  to  place  my  foot  in  the  stirrup. 
Remounted,  I  again  pushed  my  retreat.  I  had  not,  however,  proceeded 
many  hundred  yards,  when  my  horse  again  came  down  with  such  vio- 
lence us  to  throw  me  against  a  tree  at  a  considerable  distance,  and, 
alarmed  at  the  horses  behind  him,  he  quickly  got  up  and  escaped,  leav- 
ing me  on  foot  and  unarmed. 

"  The  eunuch  and  his  four  followers  were  hero  butchered,  after  a  very 
slight  resistance,  and  stripped  within  a  few  yards  of  me.  Their  cries 
were  dreadful ;  and  even  now  the  feelings  of  that  moment  are  fresh  in 
my  memory — my  hopes  of  life  were  too  fwnt  to  deserve  the  name.  I  was 
almost  instantly  surrounded,  and,  incapable  of  making  the  least  resistance 
as  I  was  unarmed,  was  as  speedily  stripped,  and  while  attempting,  first 
to  save  my  shirt  and  then  my  trowsers,  I  was  thrown  on  the  ground. 
My  pursuers  made  several  thrusts  at  me  with  their  spears,  which  badly 
wounded  my  hands  in  two  places,  and  slightly  my  body,  just  under  the 
ribs,  on  the  right  side ;  indeed,  I  saw  nothing  before  me  but  the  same 
cruel  death  I  had  seen  unmercifully  inflicted  on  the  few  who  had  fallen 
into  the  power  of  those  who  now  had  possession  of  me ;  and  they  were 
alone  prevented  from  murdering  me,  in  the  first  instance,  I  am  per- 
suaded, by  the  fear  of  injuring  the  value  of  my  clothes,  which  appeared 
to  them  a  rich  booty — ^but  it  was  otherwise  ordained. 

"  My  shirt  was  now  absolutely  torn  off  my  back,  and  I  waa  left  per- 
fectly naked.  Wlien  my  plunderers  began  to  quarrel  for  the  spoil,  the 
idea  of  escape  came  like  lightnhig  across  my  mind,  and  without  a 
moments  hesitation  or  reflection  I  crept  under  the  belly  of  the  horse 
nearest  me,  and  started  as  &st  as  my  legs  could  carry  me  for  the  thickest 
part  of  the  wood ;  two  of  the  Felatahs  followed,  and  I  ran  on  to  the 
eastward,  knowing  that  our  stragglers  would  be  in  that  direction,  but 
still  ahnost  as  much  afraid  of  friends  as  foes.  My  pursuers  gained  on 
me,  for  the  prickly  underwood  not  only  obstructed  my  passage,  but  tore 
my  flesh  miserably ;  and  the  delight  with  which  I  saw  a  mountain-stream 
gliding  along  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep  ravine  can  not  be  imagined.    My 


PPERTON. 

)f  the  BomoucBe  -wore 
ound  gaUop  tho  steps 
lept  a  good  look-out, 
mlder,  with  a  feoe  ex- 
ehind,  of  tho  Fclatah 
The  spur,  ivowever, 
ether,  as  the  arrow,  I 
,  and  in  passing  over 
t  before  I  was  upon  my 
iver,  kept  bold  of  tlic 
iresentcd  it  at  two  of 
itb  their  spears.    Tliey 
;0  more  boldly,  just  as 
;9  Bomewhero  in  his  left 
ay  foot  in  tho  stirrup, 
lot,  however,  proceeded 

le  down  with  such  vio- 
laiderablo  distance,  and, 
.t  up  and  escaped,  loav- 

0  butchered,  after  a  very 
rds  of  me.    Their  ones 
lat  moment  are  fresh  m 
ieserve  the  name.    I  was 
alung  the  least  resistance 
d  while  attempting,  first 
thrown  on  the  ground. 
,heir  spears,  which  badly 
my  body,  just  under  tho 
before  me  but  the  same 

1  the  few  who  had  6Uen 
n  of  me;  and  they  were 

6rst  instance,  I  am  per- 
Y  clothes,  which  appeared 
•dained. 

•  back,  and  I  was  loft  per- 
j  quarrel  for  tho  spoil,  the 
tny  mind,  and  without  a 
er  the  belly  of  the  horse 
d  carry  me  for  the  thickest 

>wed,  and  I  ran  on  to  ttie 
I  be  in  that  direction,  but 
9,  My  pursuers  gained  on 
Hcted  my  passage,  but  tore 
■h  I  saw  a  mountain-stream 
can  not  bo  imagined.    My 


NARROW    ESCAPE    FROM    DEATH, 


485 


Strength  had  almost  left  mo,  and  I  seized  the  young  branches  issuing 
from  tho  stump  of  a  large  tree  which  overhung  the  ravine,  for  tho  pur- 
pose of  Ictthig  myself  down  into  the  water,  as  tho  sides  were  {jrecipit- 
ous,  when,  under  my  hand,  as  the  branches  yielded  to  the  weight  of  ray 
body,  a  large  Hjfa — tho  worst  kind  of  serpent  this  country  produces — 
rose  from  its  coil,  as  if  in  the  very  act  of  striking.  I  was  horror-struck, 
and  deprived  for  a  moment  of  all  recollection — the  branch  slipped  from 
my  hand,  and  I  tumbled  headlong  into  the  water  beneath.  This  shock, 
however,  revived  me,  and  with  three  strokes  of  my  arms  I  reached  the 
opposite  bank,  which,  with  tlifficulty,  I  crawled  up ;  and  then,  for  the 
first  time,  felt  myself  safe  from  ray  pursuers. 

"  I  now  saw  horsemen  through  the  trees,  still  further  to  the  east,  and 
determined  on  reaching  them,  if  possible,  whether  friends  or  enemies ; 
and  the  feelings  of  gratitude  and  joy  with  which  I  recognized  Barca 
Gana  and  Boo-Khaloom,  Avith  about  six  Arabs,  although  they  also  were 
closely  pressed  by  a  party  of  the  Felatahs,  was  beyond  description. 
The  guns  and  pistols  of  tho  Arab  shckhs  kept  the  Felatahs  in  chock, 
and  assisted  in  some  measure  the  retreat  of  the  footmen.  I  hailed  them 
with  all  my  might ;  but  the  noise  and  confusion  which  prevailed,  from 
the  cries  of  those  who  were  falling  under  the  Felatah  spears,  the  cheers 
of  the  Arabs  rallying,  and  their  enemies  pursuing,  would  have  drowned 
all  attempts  to  make  myself  hoard,  had  not  Maraymy,  the  shokh's 
negro,  seen  and  known  me  at  a  distance.  To  this  man  I  was  indebted 
for  my  second  escape :  riding  up  to  nie,  he  assisted  mo  to  mount  bo- 
hind  him,  while  tho  arrows  whistled  over  our  heads,  and  we  then  gal- 
loped off  to  the  rear  as  fast  as  his  wounded  horse  could  carry  us.  After 
we  had  gone  a  mile  or  two,  and  the  ])ursuit  had  somewhat  cooled,  in 
oonsoquenco  of  all  the  baggage  having  been  abandoned  to  the  enemy, 
Boo-Khaloom  rode  up  to  mo,  and  desired  one  of  the  Arabs  to  cover  me 
with  a  boumous.  This  was  a  most  welcome  relief,  for  the  burning  sun 
had  already  begun  to  blister  my  neck  and  back,  and  gave  me  the  great- 
eat  pain.  Shortly  after,  the  effect  of  the  poisoned  wound  in  his  foot 
caused  our  excellent  friend  to  breathe  his  last :  Maraymy  exclaimed, 
'  Look !  look !  Boo-Khaloom  is  dead !'  T  turned  my  head,  almost  as 
great  an  exertion  as  I  was  capable  of,  and  saw  him  drop  from  tho  horse 
into  thp  arms  of  his  favorite  Arab — ^he  never  spoke  after.  They  said  ho 
had  only  swooned ;  there  was  no  Avater,  however,  to  revive  him,  and 
about  an  hour  after,  when  we  came  to  Makkeray,  he  was  past  the  reach 
of  restoratives. 

"  On  coming  to  tho  stream,  tho  horses,  with  blood  gushing  from 
their  nostrils,  rushed  into  the  shallow  water,  and,  letting  myself  down 
fi"om  behind  Maraymy,  I  knelt  down  among  them,  and  seemed  to  im- 
bibe new  life  by  the  copious  draughts  of  the  muddy  beverage  which 
I  swallowed.  Of  what  followed  I  have  no  recollection ;  Maraymy  told 
me  afterward  that  I  staggered  across  tho  stream,  which  was  not  above 
my  hips,  and  fell  down  at  the  foot  of  a  tree  on  the  other  side.    About 


486     TRAVELS  OF  UENHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

a  owirtrr  of  an  l.our's  l.ult  took  place  here  for  the  benefit  of  Htragglcrs, 
am    to  te  poor  Boo-Khalooni's  body  on  a  horse's  back,  at  the  end  o 
itr^taVny  awoke  ,ne  from  my  deep  sleep,  and  I  found  ^y^^U^ 
wonderfully  «.ereased  ;  not  so,  however,  our  horse,  for  ho  had  beco    . 
tiff  and  eould  scarcely  move.     As  I  learned  afterward,  a  conversaUm 
had  taken  place  about  mo  while  I  slept,  which  rendered  my  obhga,t  ous 
to  Maraymy  still  greater;  he  had  reported  to  Barca  «-*  *^"  «^f .^J 
his  horse,  and  the  hnpossibUity  of  carrymg  me  on,  when  the  chief,  i  ri- 
tatcd  by  his  losses  and  defeat,  replied :  'Then  leave  huu  behmd.    By 
the  head  of  the  prophet !  believers  enough  have  breathed  their  last  to- 
day     AVhat  is  there  extraordinary  in  a  Christian's  death  ?'     My  old  an- 
tagonist, Malem  Chadilly,  replied :  '  No,  God  has  P'-^^^^f   '^'J  ;  ^f'Z^ 
not  forsake  him.'     Maraymy  returned  to  the  tree,  and  said   hn  heart 
told  him  what  to  do.'    He  awoke  me,  assisted  me  to  "^'^t,  and  we 
moved  on  as  before,  but  with  tottering  steps  and  less  speed.    The  cttcct 
produced  on  the  horses  that  were  wounded  by  poisoned  arrows  was  ex- 
traordinary ;  immediately  after  drinking  they  dropped  and  mstantly 
died,  the  blood  gushing  from  their  noses,  mouths,  and  cars 

"In  this  way  we  conthiued  our  retreat,  and  it  was  after  midnight 
when  wc  halted  in  the  sultan  of  Mandara's  territory.  Uidmg  more  than 
forty-five  miles,  in  such  an  unprovided  state,  on  the  bare  back  ot  a  lean 
horse,  the  powerful  consequences  may  be  imaginea  I  was  "^^  deplora- 
ble state  the  whole  night ;  and  notwithstanding  the  -ntation  ot  the  flesh- 
wounds  was  augmented  by  the  woollen  covering  the  Arab  had  thrown 
TeTme,  it  waT  evening  tho  next  day  before  I  could  get  a  shut  when 
one  man  who  had  two,  both  of  which  he  had  worn  eight  or  ten  days  at 
least,  gave  me  one,  on  a  promise  of  gettmg  a  new  one  at  Kouka.  1 
slpt  under  a  tree  nearly  the  whole  night  and  day,  except  at  mtervals 
when  my  friend  Maraymy  supplied  me  with  a  drink  made  from  parched 
corn,  bruis'jd,  r^nd  steeped  in  water. 

"Mai  Meegamy,  the  dethroned  sultan  of  a  country  to  the  south-west 
of  Angornou,  and  now  subject  to  the  shekh,  took  me  by  the  hand  as  I 
crawled  out  of  my  nest  for  a  few  minutes,  and  with  many  exc  amations 
of  J^rrow,and  a  comtenance  fuU  of  commiseration,  led  me  to  his  leather 
tent!  and  sitting  down  quickly,  disrobed  hunself  of  his  trowsers  insis  mg 
I  luld  put  them  on.    ReaUy,  no  act  of  charity  could  exceed  tlus !    I 
was  exce^edingly  affected  at  so  unexpected  a  friend,  for  I  had  scare  ly 
seen,  or  spoken  three  words  to  him ;  but  not  so  much  so  a^  himself  when 
1  refused  to  accept  of  them.     He  slied  tears  in  abundance ;  and  thmKiug, 
which  was  the  fact,  that  I  conceived  he  had  offered  the  only  ones  he  had, 
immediately  caUed  a  slave,  whom  he  stripped  of  those  necessary  appen- 
dages to  a  man's  dress,  according  to  our  ideas    and  pi.tting  them  cHi 
himself,  insisted  again  on  my  taking  those  he  had  first  offered  me.    I  ac 
cepted  this  offer,  and  thanked  him  with  a  full  heart ;  and  Meegamy  was 
S    great  fdend  from  that  moment  mitil  I  quitted  the  ^^^^^-^-^^2 
"  We  returned  with  great  expedition,  considenug  the  wretched  state 


PERTON. 

)L"iK'at  of  stiagglcrsj 
b:ick,  at  the  eud  of 
I  found  my  stiengtli 
for  ho  hud  bocoiuo 
ward,  a  convorsatiou 
Icred  my  obligatioua 
;a  Gana  tho  Htato  of 
when  tho  chief,  iiri- 
ive  liiiu  behmd.     By 
rcathcd  their  last  to- 
death?'     Myoldan- 
)reserved  him ;  let  us 
2,  and  said'hia  heart 
lie  to  mount,  and  wo 
esa  speed.    The  effect 
isoned  arrows  was  ex- 
iropped  and  instantly 
and  ears, 

it  was  after  nudnight 
ry.  Hiding  more  than 
,he  bare  back  of  a  lean 
a.  I  was  in  a  deplora- 
,e  irritation  of  the  flesh- 
the  Arab  had  thrown 
iould  get  a  shirt,  when 
•n  eight  or  ten  days  at 
new  one  at  Kouka.  I 
ay,  except  at  intervals 
ink  made  from  parched 

Duntry  to  the  south-west 
ok  me  by  the  hand  as  I 
vith  many  exclamations 
m,  led  me  to  his  leather 
of  his  trowsers,  insistuig 
r  could  exceed  tliis '.    I 
•lend,  for  I  had  scarcely 
luch  so  as  hunself;  when 
,uudancc ;  and  thinking, 
ed  the  only  ones  he  had, 
•  those  necessary  appen- 
9,  and  putting  them  on 
d  first  offered  me.    I  ac- 
eart;  and  Mcegamy  was 
a  the  shekh's  dominions, 
ering  the  wretched  state 


THE    IIUINS    OF    OLD    BIRNIK. 


487 


wp  wcro  ill.  On  the  sixtli  day  after  our  dt'i)arturt'  from  Mora,  wc  arrived 
in  Kouka,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  eiglity  miles ;  the  wounded 
Arabs  remained  behind,  being  unable  to  keep  up  with  the  oliief,  and  did 
not  arrive  until  four  days  after  us.  I  suffered  mucli,  botli  iu  mind  and 
body,  l)>it  complained  not ;  indeed  all  complaint  would  have  been  ill- 
timed,  where  few  were  enduring  less  than  myself.  My  black  servant 
liad  lost  mule,  canteens,  and  every  thing,  principally  from  keeping  too 
near  me  in  the  action ;  and,  by  his  obeying  implicitly  tho  strict  orders  I 
lia<l  given  him  not  to  fire  on  the  Felatahs,  he  had  narrowly  escape<l  with 
his  life.  Bruised  and  lame,  he  could  render  me  no  assistance,  and  usually 
came  in  some  hours  after  we  had  halted."  On  reaching  Angornou,  the 
shekh  sent  Major  Dcnham  some  linen  and  a  dress  of  the  coruitry,  uj 
which  he  made  his  entry  into  Kouka. 


THE  RAIUY  SEASON  IN  BORNOU. 

Soon  after  the  return  of  tho  unfortunate  exjiedition  to  Mandara,  the 
shekh  of  Bornou  determined  to  send  a  force  to  subdue  the  i)eople  of 
Munga,  a  country  lying  to  the  westward.  For  this  purpose,  he  assem- 
bled eight  or  nine  thousand  spearmen,  and  five  thousand  Shouaas,  and 
set  out  on  the  18th  of  May.  Major  Denham  and  Dr.  Oiidney  obtained 
permission  to  accompany  him,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  ruins  of  tho 
towns  of  Gambarou  and  Old  Birnie ;  Capt.ain  Clapperton  remained  at 
Kouka.  The  travelers  accompanied  the  shekh  the  first  day,  and  then, 
leaving  tho  army,  took  a  course  more  to  tho  northward,  to  the  river 
Ycou,  or  Gambarou,  near  which  are  the  ruins  of  Old  Birnie.  On  the 
2Cth  of  May,  they  passed  a  lako  three  miles  long,  called  Muggaby,  or 
the  lake  of  the  Sultan  of  Bornou.  "  We  proceeded  by  the  high  road  to 
Soudan,"  says  Major  Dcnham,  "  and  after  about  two  miles  came  to  the 
spot  on  which  once  stood  the  capital  of  Bornou ;  the  ruins  of  the  city 
ccrtauily  tended  to  convince  us  moi'e  strongly  of  the  power  of  its  former 
sultans,  than  any  of  the  tales  avc  had  heard  of  their  magnificence. 
We  had  seen  upward  of  thirty  lai-ge  towns  which  the  Felatahs  had  com- 
pletely razed  to  tho  ground  at  the  time  they  destroyed  the  capital,  and  wc 
were  now  arrived  at  the  ruins  of  the  capital  itself  Old  Birnie  covered  a 
space  of  five  or  six  square  miles,  and  is  said  to  have  had  a  population  of 
tM-o  hundred  thousand  souls.  The  remains  of  the  walls  were  in  many- 
places  still  standing,  in  large  masses  of  hard  red  brick-work,  and  were 
from  three  to  four  feet  in  thickness,  and  sixteen  to  eighteen  feet  in 
height.  From  the  top  of  one  of  these  we  obtained  a  sight  of  the  river 
Gambarou,  nmning  nearly  east,  notwithstanding  its  windings,  and  only 
a  few  miles  distant. 

"  Close  to  the  bank,  and  just  at  the  hollow  of  a  slight  curve  in  tho 
river's  course,  fourteen  years  ago  stood  the  town  of  Gambarou,  the  chosen 
place  of  residence  of  the  late  and  former  Sultans  of  Bornou  ;  and  tho 


1 

I 


488 


TRAVELS    OF   DBNHAM    AND    OLAPPBRTON. 


ruins  now  standing  give  a  proof  of  the  buildings  liaving  been,  for  this 
country,  of  a  princely  kind ;  the  walls  of  a  mosque,  Avhich  were  moro 
than  twenty  yards  square,  are  still  visible,  and  those  of  the  sultan's  house, 
with  gates  opening  to  the  river,  still  remam  ;  a  private  mosque  appears 
also  to  have  been  attached  to  the  sultan's  residence.  The  buildings  were 
all  of  brick,  and  must  have  had  a  superior  appearance  to  any  town  wo 
had  seen  in  Africa.  The  situation  was  beautiful,  and  although  labyrinths 
of  thickets  and  brambles  now  overspread  the  banks  of  the  river,  while 
wild  plants  and  useless  grass  were  in  the  meadows,  yet  I  was  assured 
that  the  whole  neighborhood  of  Gambarou  was  once  in  a  superior  state 
of  cultivation,  and  that,  in  the  old  sultan's  time,  boats  were  constantly 
moving  to  and  from  Kabshary,  and  other  towns  to  the  west.  Kouka 
was  at  that  time  not  in  being,  and  Angornou  but  a  small  parcel  of  huts." 
The  travelers  were  here  alarmed  by  reports  that  the  people  of  Munga 
were  in  the  neighborhood,  and  hastened  to  rejoin  the  shekh's  army.  On 
their  way  they  came  upon  a  herd  of  fourteen  wild  elephants,  which  the 
negroes  made  to  dance  and  frisk  like  so  many  goats,  by  beating  a  brass 
basin  violently  with  a  stick.  They  were  two  days  in  reaching  the  Bor- 
nou  cam]),  and  on  the  Avay  both  Dr.  Oudney  and  the  servant  Columbus 
came  near  losing  their  lives  by  falling  into  pits  set  for  wild  beasts,  with 
sharj)  stakes  at  the  bottom.  On  rejoining  the  sultan,  they  found  him 
within  the  territory  of  Munga,  having  already  gained  several  advantages 
over  his  enemies.  On  the  5th  of  June,  many  hundreds  of  the  Munga 
people  came  to  the  camp,  bowing  to  the  ground,  and  throwing  sand  upon 
their  heads,  in  token  ot  submission.  At  night,  preparations  were  made 
for  marching  upon  the  capital,  but  the  people  sent  word  that  if  the  shekh 
remained  where  ho  was,  they  would  come  to  him  and  surrender  them- 
selves. 

On  the  following  day,  several  towns  sent  their  chiefs,  but  Malam  Fa- 
naamy,  the  chief  of  the  rebels,  refused  to  come,  because  he  feared  to  lose 
his  head,  offering  at  the  same  tune  two  thousand  slaves,  one  thousand 
bullocks,  and  three  hundred  horses,  for  the  shekh,  as  the  price  of  peace. 
The  same  evening,  the  shekh  requested  Major  Denham  to  send  up  some 
rockets,  which  was  successfully  done.  The  night  was  very  dark,  and  the 
appearance  of  the  rockets  created  great  wonder  and  consternation. 
Some  of  the  Munga  messengers  fell  on  their  feces  and  began  to  pray  most 
fearfully,  when  the  rockets  burst  in  their  descent.  Next  morning,  Ma- 
lem  Fanaamy  came,  mounted  on  a  white  horse,  at  the  head  of  a  thousand 
followers,  to  make  his  submission.  The  shekh  received  his  humble  ac- 
knowledgments of  subjection,  and  when  the  rebel  expected  to  hear  the 
order  for  his  throat  to  be  cut,  he  was  clothed  with  eight  handsome  tobes, 
and  his  head  made  as  big  as  six  with  turbans  from  Egypt. 

A  circumstance  occurred  during  this  expedition  which  created  a 
great  sensation  among  the  chiefs,  and  which  offered  a  striking  illustra- 
tion of  the  absolute  authority  of  the  Shekh  of  Bornou.  Says  Major 
Denham :  "  Barca  Gana,  the  shekh's  general  and  his  favorite,  a  governor 


PPERTON. 

having  been,  for  this 
xc,  which  wore  more 
5  of  the  sultan's  house, 
ivate  mosque  appears 
.    The  buildings  were 
ranee  to  any  town  wo 
d  although  labyrinths 
ks  of  the  river,  while 
iws,  yet  I  was  assured 
ice  in  a  superior  state 
3oat8  were  constantly 
I  to  the  west.    Kouka 
I  small  parcel  of  huts." 
t  the  people  of  Munga 
the  shckh's  army.   On 
I  elephants,  which  the 
[Its,  by  beating  a  brass 
}  in  reaching  the  Bor- 
the  servant  Colimibus 
t  for  wild  beasts,  with 
ultan,  they  found  him 
lied  several  advantages 
indreds  of  the  Munga 
nd  throwing  sand  upon 
reparations  were  made 
,  word  that  if  the  shekh 
and  surrender  them- 

chiefs,  but  Malam  Fa- 
icauBO  ho  feared  to  lose 
i  slaves,  one  thousand 
I,  as  the  price  of  peace, 
inham  to  send  up  some 
was  very  dark,  and  the 
er  and  consternation, 
and  began  to  pray  most 
,.  Next  morning,  Ma- 
the  head  of  a  thousand 
•eccived  his  humble  ac- 
1  expected  to  hear  the 
I  eight  handsome  tobes, 
a  Egypt. 

ition  which  created  a 
cred  a  striking  illustra- 
Bornou.  Says  Major 
his  favorite,  a  governor 


BARCA    OANA'S    HUMILIATION. 


489 


'  of  six  large  districts,  the  man  whom  ho  deliglited  to  honor,  who  had 
more  than  fitly  female  and  a  hundred  male  siavort,  was  tauglit  a  lesson 
of  humility  that  made  me  feel  for  him.  In  giving  presents  to  the  chiefk, 
the  shekh  had  inadvertently  sent  him  a  horse  which  he  had  previously 
promised  to  some  one  else,  and  on  Barca  Gana  being  requested  to  givo 
it  up,  he  took  such  great  offense  that  he  sent  back  all  the  horses  which 
the  shekh  had  itroviously  given  him,  saying  that  ho  would  in  future  walk 
or  ride  his  own.  On  this  the  shekh  immediately  sent  for  him,  had  him 
stripped  in  his  presence,  and  the  leather  girdle  put  round  his  loins ;  and, 
after  reproaching  him  with  his  ingratitude,  ordered  that  ho  should  be 
forthwith  sold  to  the  Tibboo  merchants,  for  ho  was  still  a  slave.  The 
favorite  thus  humbled  and  disgraced,  fell  on  his  knees  and  acknowledged 
the  justness  of  his  punishment.  He  begged  for  no  forgiveness  for  him- 
self, but  intreatcd  that  liis  wives  and  children  might  bo  provided  for,  out 
of  the  riches  of  his  master's  bounty.  But  on  the  following  day,  when 
preparations  were  made  for  carrying  this  sentence  into  eft'ect,  the  black 
Mamelukes  and  Shouaa  chiefs  about  tho  shckh's  person  fell  at  his  feet, 
and,  notwithstanding  the  haugtiness  of  Barca  Gana's  carriage  to  them 
since  his  advancement,  to  a  man  intreated  pardon  for  his  offenses.  Tlio 
culprit  appearing  at  this  moment,  to  take  leave,  the  shekh  threw  him- 
self back  on  his  cushion,  wept  like  a  child,  and  suffered  Barca  Gan:i,  who 
had  crept  close  to  him,  to  embrace  his  kncos,  and  calling  them  all  his 
sons,  pardoned  his  repentant  slave.  In  tho  evening,  there  was  great 
and  general  rejoicing.  The  timbrels  beat :  the  Kanemboos  yelled  and 
struck  their  shields ;  every  thing  bespoke  joy,  and  Barca  Gana,  in  new 
tobes  and  a  rich  bornous,  rode  around  the  camp,  followed  by  all  tho 
chiefs  of  the  array." 

After  an  absence  of  a  month,  the  shekh  returned  to  Konka,  and  the 
troops  were  disbanded.  The  travelers  established  themselves  in  the 
house  which  had  been  appropriated  to  them,  to  pass  the  rainy  season, 
which  had  commenced.  Major  Denham  commenced  the  study  of  the 
Arabic  and  Bomon  languages.  Dr.  Oudney  and  I^Iillman  were  both  ill 
with  the  fever,  and  the  whole  party  was  affected  by  the  heat  of  the  days 
and  the  dampness  of  the  evenings.  Major  Denham  gives  the  following 
description  of  tho  rainy  season :  "We  had  frequent  and  violent  showers 
of  rain,  with  thunder  and  most  vivid  lightning :  the  waters  covered  the 
face  of  the  country  in  extensive  lakes,  and  our  excursions  in  search  of 
game  were  now  confined  to  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  our  resi- 
dence. The  sugar-cane  had  increased  in  height  greatly;  and  at  this 
season  of  the  year  there  are  other  reasons  beside  tho  fall  of  rain  which 
induce  people  to  remain  in  their  habitations — when  the  great  lake  over- 
flows the  immense  district  which,  in  tho  dry  season,  affords  cover  and 
food  to  the  numerous  animals  with  which  Bornou  abounds,  they  are 
driven  from  the  wilds,  and  take  reflige  in  the  standing  corn,  and  some- 
times in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  towns.  Elephants  had  al- 
ready been  seen  at  Dowergoo,  scarcely  six  miles  from  Kouka ;  and  a 


490 


TRAVELS  OF  DENHAM  AND  CLAPPKUTON. 


fcinalo  >iliivo,  whilo  slif  WJia  returning  homo  iVoni  wci'diiij,'  tlio  corn  to 
Kowii,  uoi  niore  than  ten  miloH  distant,  had  been  HiizeJ  and  cariii'd  oft' 
by  a  lioness." 

Tlie  party  now  began  to  bo  embarrassed  for  want  of  funds.  A  mer- 
chant of  Mourzuk,  named  Iladji  Ali,  to  whose  brother  they  hr.d  intrust- 
ed some  money,  declined  to  pay  it,  and  they  woro  almost  destitute. 
This  eircuuistanco  oamo  to  the  ears  of  the  shekh  and  of  some  relatives 
of  Iladji  Ali,  who  at  last  came  to  Major  Denham,  stating  that  he  would 
lot  theui  have  as  much  as  they  wanted,  in  pieces  of  cotton  cloth,  for 
which  he  nmst  first  send  to  Mourzuk ;  but  he  had  no  money.  This  was 
very  imsatisfactory,  but  they  tliought  it  best  to  make  no  objection. 
Captain  Clapperton  was  now  seized  with  fever  and  delirium :  Ilillman, 
though  he  still  had  occasional  attacks  of  delirium,  recruited  a  little,  but 
Dr.  Oudney  grew  visibly  weaker  every  day.  Tho  season  appeared  to 
be  an  unhealthy  one  for  the  natives  also,  and  a  great  number  of  them 

died. 

Toward  the  end  of  September,  Clapperton,  whoso  life  had  boon  de- 
spaired of,  began  slowly  to  recover.  The  carpenter,  Hillman,  employed 
himself  in  making  a  gun-carriage  for  a  four-pounder,  which  the  Sultan 
of  Fezzan  had  presented  to  tho  shekh,  and,  notwithstanding  the  diffi- 
culties he  had  to  encounter,  in  tho  scarcity  of  iron,  and  tho  clumsiness 
of  the  negro  blacksmith,  he  succeeded  very  well.  The  providing  of  balls 
was  a  great  difficulty ;  but  after  trying  a  number  of  musket-bafis  m  a 
small  Imen  rag,  which  would  not  answer,  Major  Denham  succeeded  in 
getting  from  the  negro  blacksmith,  by  means  of  a  paper  model,  a  small 
tin  canister,  the  size  of  tho  bore  of  the  piece,  and  holding  sixteen  mus- 
ket-balls. The  shekh's  delight  at  this  acquisition  to  his  implements  of 
war  was  extreme,  and  he  became  impatient  to  sec  tho  guns  exercised. 
The  distance  to  which  they  threw  tho  balls,  and  the  loudness  of  the  re- 
port, created  the  greatest  astonishment,  but  the  shekh  would  not  suffer 
a  second  canister  to  be  shot.  "  No,  no  I"  said  he,  "  they  are  too  valua- 
ble ;  they  must  not  bo  thrown  away.  Curses  on  their  race,  how  these 
will  make  the  Begharmis  jump!"  Major  Denham  had  cut  out  a  harness 
hi  paper  as  a  pattern,  which  had  been  tolerably  imitated  in  leather :  this 
was  attached  to  each  gun,  with  a  man  mounted  on  the  mule  that  drew 
it,  and  altogether  the  guns  had  a  far  better  appearance  and  effect  than 
was  anticipated. 

About  the  middle  of  October  cool  winds  began  to  blow,  which  in  the 
course  of  two  or  three  weeks  produced  a  great  change  in  the  climate. 
The  sick  became  cheered  and  invigorated,  and  tho  travelers  now  began 
to  plan  new  journeys  to  tho  eastward  and  westward  of  Bornou.  The 
shekh  intended  to  send  off"  two  expeditions,  one  to  Begharmi,  a  country 
lying  south-east  of  Lake  Tchad,  and  the  other  to  Kancin,  lying  to  tho 
north-east,  on  the  borders  of  the  desert.  Major  Denham  determined  to 
accompany  the  former.  Captain  Clapperton  and  Dr.  Oudney  succeeded 
in  obtaining  the  permission  of  the  shekh  to  accompany  a  caravan  which 


APPKUTON. 

Ill  wcetliiij;  tlio  corn  to 
J  seized  luid  carrii'd  oft' 

wnnt  of  funds.  A  riier- 
iDtlior  tliey  lir.d  iiitrust- 

woro  almost  destitute. 
1  and  of  some  relatives 
11,  stating  that  he  would 
cos  of  cotton  cloth,  for 
id  no  money.     This  was 

to  make  no  objection, 
and  delirium:  Ilillman, 
m,  recruited  a  little,  but 
rho  season  appeared  to 

great  number  of  them 

whoso  life  had  been  de- 
nter,  Hillman,  employed 
(Under,  which  the  Sultan 
otwithstanding  the  diffi- 
iron,  and  the  clumsiness 
,  The  providing  of  balls 
aber  of  musket-balls  in  a 
jr  Denham  succeeded  in 
)f  a.  paper  model,  a  small 
and  holding  sixteen  mus- 
ion  to  his  implements  of 

sec  the  guns  exercised. 
I  the  loudness  of  the  re- 
le  shekh  would  not  suffer 
he,  "  they  are  too  valua- 
on  their  race,  how  these 
am  had  cut  out  a  harness 
imitated  in  leather  :  this 
id  on  the  mule  that  drew 
ipearance  and  effect  than 

;an  to  blow,  which  in  the 
at  change  in  the  climate, 
the  travelers  now  began 
istward  of  Bornou.  The 
3  to  Begharmi,  a  country 
r  to  Kancm,  lying  to  the 
ir  Denham  determined  to 
id  Dr.  Oudney  succeeded 
jompany  a  caravan  which 


ARUIVAr,    OF    Mil.    TOOLK. 


491 


was  about  starting  for  Kano,  in  the  Sultan  of  lluus.sa'8  dominioHH.  Dr 
Ou.lney  was  extremely  debiiitate.l,  but  as  no  otiior  caravan  was  ex- 
pected to  start  for  months,  in  consetpience  of  the  non-arrival  (.f  the  cara- 
\:m  from  Mourzuk.he  determined  to  go,  thougli  aware  that  his  strength 
was  scarcely  e.jual  to  the  jouniey.  They  loll  Kouka  on  the  14th  of  De- 
cember. 

On  the  2l8t  Major  Denham  was  delighted  with  the  intelligence  that 
a  small  caravan  liad  arrived  at  Woodio  from  Mourzuk,  and  that  there 
was  an  EngUshman  accompanying  it.  "  The  following  day,"  he  writes, 
"  was  a  day  of  great  anxiety  ;  and  on  the  23d,  very  soon  alter  daylight' 
I  was  overjoyed  at  seeing,  instead  of  Mr.  Tyrwhit,  whoso  bodily  inlirmi' 
ties  made  mo  always  consider  his  joinuig  me  doubtful,  a  robust,  healthy- 
looking  young  man,  with  a  double-barreled  gun  slung  at  his  back. 
^VTien  ho  presented  himself  at  the  door  of  my  hut,  his  very  countenance 
was  an  irresistible  letter  of  recommendation,  and  I  opened  the  packages 
which  were  to  account  for  his  appearance,  with  considerable  eagerness. 
Mr.  Tyrwhit,  I  found,  had  been  prevented  by  sickness  from  profiting  by 
the  consul's  reconmicndation ;  and  that  on  application  being  made  to  tho 
Governor  of  Malta,  as  a  substitute,  Mr.  Toole,  an  ensign  ui  the  80th 
regiment,  had  volunteered  to  join  mo,  and  lell  Malta  at  twenty  hours' 
notice.  He  had  made  tho  long,  dangerous  and  difficult  journey  from 
Tripoli  to  Bornou,  in  the  short  space  of  three  months  and  fourteen  days, 
having  left  the  former  place  on  the  Cth  of  September :  and  overcombg 
all  obstacles  by  perseverance  and  resolution,  both  at  Mourzuk  and  in  the 
Tibboo  country,  had  arrived  here  with  only  the  loss  of  five  camels.  His 
arrival  gave  a  most  favorable  turn  to  my  situation  at  Kouka.  I  had  now 
money,  health,  and  a  desirable  companion." 

EXCURSIONS  TO  LOGGUN,   AND  AxiOUND  LAKE   TCHAD. 

On  tho  12th  of  January,  1824,  news  camo  to  Kouka,  that  tho  shekh's 
troops  who  had  been  stationed  on  the  western  bank  of  the  Shary,  a  largo 
river  which  flows  into  Lake  Tchad  from  the  south,  had  gained  a  victory 
over  the  troops  of  the  Sultan  of  Begharmi,  which  latter  had  retreated 
from  the  river.  It  was  therefore  i)ossiblo  to  visit  the  country  of  Log- 
gun,  on  tho  Shary,  with  entire  safety,  and  the  shekh  not  only  gave 
Major  Denham  permission  to  proceed  thither,  but  appointed  one  of  his 
negroes,  named  BeUal,  to  accompany  him.  "While  I  was  waiting  to 
take  leave  of  tho  shekh,"  says  Denham,  "  a  note  was  brought  to  me 
from  Dr.  Oudney,  by  a  Bornouese  from  Katagum :  it  had  no  date,  and 
Avas  indeed  his  last  effort.  The  acknowledgment  of  being  weak  and 
helpless  assured  mo  that  ho  was  really  so :  for  during  the  whole  of  hia 
long  sufferings  a  complaint  had  scarcely  ever  escaped  his  lii)a.  On  tho 
shekh's  saying  to  him,  when  he  first  expressed  his  wish  to  accompany 
the  caravan,  '  Surely  your  health  is  not  such  as  to  risk  a  journey  ?'  he 


r 


f^ 


492 


TRAVKLS  OP  DRNHAM  AND  CLAPPKRTON. 


i 


i 


merely  replied  :  '  Why,  if  I  stay  horc  1  sliull  dio,  nnd  probably  nooncr, 
as  traveling  alwayn  improves  my  heultli.'  " 

Acfompaiii(nl  by  Mr.  Toolo  and  the  negro  Dellal,  Major  Donham 
left  Kouka  on  the  23d  of  Jananry,  and  on  the  'iSth  reached  the  town  of 
Showy,  on  the  banks  of  tho  river  Shary.  The  magnitudo  of  tlio  stream 
drew  from  them  an  exclamation  of  surprise :  it  appeared  to  be  full  half 
a  mile  in  width,  running  northward  at  the  rate  of  two  or  three  miles  an 
hour.  On  tho  2d  of  February  thoy  embarked,  intending  to  descend  the 
river  to  Lake  Tchad.  They  were  accompanied  by  the  Kadi,  or  Gov- 
ernor of  Showy,  with  eight  canoes,  carrying  ten  and  eleven  men  each. 
"  The  river,  fuU  as  it  is  of  water  at  this  season,  had  a  highly  interesting 
appearance :  one  noblo  reach  succeeded  another,  alternately  varying 
their  courses  by  handsomo  sweeps,  some  of  them  three  and  four  miles 
in  length  ;  tho  banks  wore  thickly  bcattercd  with  trees  rich  in  foliage, 
and  all  overhung  with  creeping  plants,  bearing  various  colored  and 
aromatic  blossoms,  among  which  tho  purple  convolvulus  flourished  in 
great  beauty."  On  reaching  tho  lake,  a  heavy  swell  from  the  north-east 
prevented  them  from  advancing  further ;  with  the  aid  of  a  good  tole- 
scojio  no  land  could  bo  discerned  in  that  direction.  Tho  natives  who  ac- 
companied them  were  in  great  fear  of  the  Biddoomas,  a  fierce  people, 
who  inhabit  some  islands  in  tho  lake,  and  tho  party  therefore  re- 
turned up  tho  river  to  Showy,  which  they  reached  after  an  absence  of 
six  days. 

The  travelers  now  continued  their  journey  by  land,  and  after  four 
days  of  toilsome  travel,  over  deep  marshes  and  through  dense,  thoniy 
forests,  reached  Kussery,  on  the  Shary.  Mr.  Toole  became  ill,  and 
Major  Denham  therefore  decided  to  rest  a  day  or  two,  to  recruit  him. 
'•  Kussery,  however,"  says  Denham,  "  was  the  last  place  ono  should  have 
chosen  for  rest  and  tranquillity:  during  several  hours  in  the  day,  tho 
inhabitants  themselves  dare  not  move  out,  on  account  of  the  flics  and 
bees.  Tho  formation  of  the  houses,  which  arc  hterally  one  cell  within 
another,  five  or  six  in  number,  excited  my  surprise ;  which  was  not  a 
little  increased  when  I  found  that  they  were  built  expressly  as  a  retreat 
from  the  attacks  of  these  insects.  Still  I  was  incredulous,  until  one  of 
our  people,  who  had  carelessly  gone  out,  returned  with  his  eyes  and  head 
in  such  a  state  that  ho  was  extremely  ill  for  three  days.  Kussery  is  a 
strong  walled  town,  governed  by  an  independent  sultan,  named  Zar- 
mawka,  who  has  twice  been  in  rebellion  against  the  shekh.  Belial  was 
obliged  to  take  oflf  his  red  cap  and  turban,  and  enter  tho  presence  with 
his  head  and  feet  bare — a  ceremony  which  had  previously  been  dispensed 
with  on  our  journey.  The  sultan  merely  peeped  at  us  through  a  lattice- 
work of  bamboo,  but  inquired  particularly  why  I  turned  my  face  to- 
ward him  as  I  sat.  I,  of  course,  replied,  that  turning  my  back  would  bo 
a  gross  affront  in  my  country,  at  which  he  laughed  heartily." 

The  travelers  immediately  set  out  for  Loggun,  which  was  thirty 
miles  distant,  but  were  detained  on  the  frontier  of  the  country  until  tho 


peuton. 

ntl  probably  sooner, 

>llal,  Major  Doiiham 
readied  the  town  of 
nitu'lf?  of  tho  stream 
(eared  to  be  full  half 
wo  or  three  inileH  an 
luling  to  descend  the 
f  the  Kadi,  or  Gov- 
ind  eleven  men  each. 

a  highly  interesting 
,  alternately  varying 
three  and  four  miles 
I  trees  rich  in  foliage, 

various  colored  and 
irolvubia  flourished  in 
•11  from  the  north-oast 
e  aid  of  ft  good  tole- 

Tho  natives  who  ac- 
omas,  a  fierce  people, 
0  party  therefore  re- 
ed after  an  absence  of 

r  land,  and  after  four 
through  dense,  thorny 
'oolo  became  ill,  and 
r  two,  to  recruit  him. 
place  one  should  have 
hours  in  the  day,  the 
jount  of  the  flies  and 
iterally  one  cell  within 
isc;  which  was  not  a 
t  expressly  as  a  retreat 
credulous,  until  one  ol 
with  his  eyes  and  head 
ce  days.    Kussery  is  a 
int  sultan,  named  Zar- 
the  shekh.    Belial  was 
mter  the  presence  with 
Dviouslybccn  dispensed 
at  us  through  a  latticc- 
1  turned  my  face  to- 
ling  my  back  would  bo 
!d  heartily." 
^un,  which  was  thirty 
if  the  country  until  the 


RBORPTIOJT   AT   LOOOUN. 


498 


sultan  had  been  consulted.  Tliey  entered  the  town  by  the  western  gate, 
which  leads  to  the  principal  street — a  wide  avenue,  with  larg«»  dwellings 
on  each  side,  built  with  great  luiiformity,  each  having  a  court-yard  iu 
front,  Nurroimded  by  walls,  and  a  handsome  taitrauce,  with  u  strong 
door  husped  with  iron.  A  number  of  the  inhabitants  were  seated  at 
their  doors  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  the  strangers  enter.  Tlie  next 
morning  Major  Dcnham  was  sent  for  to  appear  before  the  sultan.  Ten 
immense  negroes,  of  high  birth,  gray-bearded,  bare-headed,  and  carrying 
large  clubs,  preceded  him  through  the  streets.  lie  was  conducted  to  a 
large  sijuaro  court,  where  Ron»o  hundred  persons  were  assembled,  ail 
seated  upon  the  ground :  in  the  middle  was  a  vacant  space  where  the 
Major  was  desired  to  seat  himself.  The  sultan  was  concealed  behind  a 
lattice-work  of  cane,  which  being  removed  at  a  given  signal,  something 
alive  Mas  discovered  on  a  carpet,  with  the  head  enveloped  in  shawls, 
and  nothing  but  the  eyes  visible.  The  whole  court  prostrated  them- 
selves and  ]>ourcd  sand  on  their  heads,  while  a  harsh  salute  was  blown 
from  loud  horns.  After  receiving  his  present  the  sultan  whisjtered  a 
welcome ;  for  it  is  considered  so  very  ill-bred  in  a  Logguu  gentle- 
man to  speak  out,  that  the  sound  of  their  voices  can  with  ditliculty 
bo  heard. 

"  TiOggun,"  says  Major  Denham,  "  the  capital  of  which  country,  Ker- 
nuk  Loggun,  is  on  the  banks  of  the  Shary,  and  in  11°  7'  north  latitude, 
is  a  very  populous  country.  Kemuk  has  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants 
at  least.  They  speak  a  language  nearly  Begharmi.  The  Shouaas  aro 
all  around  them,  and  to  them  they  are  indebted  for  the  plentiful  supply 
of  bullocks,  milk,  and  fat  with  which  the  market  abounds.  Tliey  have, 
also,  a  metal  currency  in  Loggun,  the  first  I  had  seen  in  Negroland.  It 
consists  of  thin  plates  of  iron,  something  in  the  shape  of  tiie  tip  with 
which  they  shoe  race-horses.  These  are  made  into  parcels  of  ten  and 
twelve,  according  to  the  weight,  and  thirty  of  these  parcels  aro  equal  in 
value  to  ten  rottola,  or  a  dollar." 

On  the  19th,  Mr.  Toole  seemed  better,  and  Major  Denham  left  him 
for  the  purpose  of  proceeding  up  the  Shary  for  a  day  or  two.  lie  had 
proceeded  but  a  few  miles,  however,  when  ;.  i  express  from  the  sultan 
overtook  him,  announcing  that  the  Begharmis  were  again  marching  on 
Loggun,  and  that  he  should  return  at  once.  On  visiting  the  sultan,  he 
endeavored  to  ])ersuade  him  to  allow  bim  to  remain.  "  More  than  half 
my  people  are  Begharmi,"  said  the  sultan.  "  I  have  no  protection  to 
give — go  while  you  can  I"  Mr.  Toole  was  fastened  upon  a  horse,  as  he 
was  unable  to  sit  up ;  and,  with  no  provisions  but  a  sack  of  parched 
com  which  the  sultan  gave  them,  at  four  o'clock  the  same  day  they 
quitted  the  town,  when  the  three  gates  were  shut  upon  them  by  an 
immense  crowd  of  people.  For  three  days  they  continued  their  flight, 
with  scarcely  any  rest,  until  they  reached  Angala,  in  the  Shekh  of 
Bomou's  dominions,  where  they  considered  themselves  comparatively 


494 


TRAVELS    OP    DENIIAM    AND    CLAPPERTON. 


safe.     Mr,  Toolo  \v:is   filt ornately  senseless   and   delirious   durincf  this 
journey. 

"  At  An"-ala,"  says  ;^^ajor  Denhani,  "  we  took  up  our  old  quarters  ; 
and  Mr.  Toole  on  being  told  •where  he  was,  exclaimed :  '  Thank  God ! 


lANGER  OF  THE  SULTAK  OF  BEGDARMT. 


then  I  shall  not  die !'  And  so  much  better  was  he  for  the  two  follow- 
ing days,  that  I  had  great  hopes  of  his  recovery ;  about  four  o'clock, 
however,  on  the  morning  of  the  26th  of  February,  these  hopes  were  at 
an  end.  A  cold  shivering  had  seized  him,  and  his  extremities  were  like 
ice.  I  gave  him  both  tea  and  rice-water ;  and  there  was  but  little  alter- 
ation in  him  until  just  before  noon,  when,  without  a  struggle  or  a  groan. 


PPERTON. 
delirious   during  this 

up  our  old  quarters  ; 
limed :  '  Thank  God ! 


ABin. 

he  for  the  two  follow- 
ery;  about  four  o'clock, 
iry,  these  hopes  were  at 
his  extremities  were  like 
there  was  but  little  altcr- 
ut  a  struggle  or  a  groan, 


DEATHS  OP  TOOLE  AND  OUDNET. 


495 


he  expired,  completely  worn  out  and  exhausted.  The  same  afternoon, 
just  as  the  sun  was  sinking  below  the  horizon,  I  followed  his  remains  to 
their  last  resting-place,  a  deep  grave  whieh  six  of  the  Sultan  of  Angala's 
slaves  had  prepared,  under  my  direction,  to  the  north-west  of  the  town, 
overhung  by  a  clump  of  mimosas  in  full  blossom.  The  prime  minister 
attended  the  procession  with  his  stall*  of  office,  and  a  silent  prayer, 
breathed  over  all  that  remained  of  my  departed  friend,  was  the  best 
funeral  service  circumstances  allowed  mo  to  perform.  After  raising  over 
the  grave  a  pile  of  thorns  and  branches  of  the  prickly  tulloh,  severnl  feet 
high,  as  a  protection  against  the  herds  of  hyenas  who  nighty  infest  the 
burying-places  in  this  country,  I  returned  to  the  town." 

An  immediate  return  to  Kouka  was  now  rendered  necessary,  and 
Major  Denham  arrived  there  on  the  2d  of  March.  The  flitigue,  anxiety 
of  mind,  and  loss  of  rest  which  ho  had  endured,  brought  on  an  attack 
of  fever  which  confined  him  to  his  mat  for  ten  days.  A  few  days  after 
his  arrival  a  courier  returned  from  Kano,  bringing  intelligence  of  the 
death  of  Dr.  Oudney,  at  a  place  called  Murmur,  on  the  12th  of  January. 
On  the  28th  of  March  the  Shekh  of  Bomou,  who  had  gone  with  what 
troops  he  could  raise  to  repel  the  Begharmis,  met  them,  five  thousand 
strong,  near  Angala,  and,  with  the  assistance  of  his  four-pounders,  routed 
them  with  great  slaughter.  Of  two  hundred  Bcgharmi  chiefs,  only 
one  escaped  alive ;  seven  sons  of  the  sultan  and  seventeen  hundred 
rien  were  amoiig  the  slain.  The  plunder  amounted  to  four  hundred 
and  eighty  horses,  two  hundred  women,  and  the  baggage  of  the 
princes.  The  rejoicings  in  Kouka  over  this  victory,  lasted  for  several 
days. 

Major  Denham  took  advantage  of  the  shekh's  good-humor  to  apply 
for  his  protection  on  a  journey  to  the  eastward,  hoping  to  penetrate 
through  to  SennAar.  The  shekh,  however,  declared  that  the  project 
was  impossible  ;  bat  toward  the  end  of  April,  Denham  ascertained  that 
a  secret  expedition  was  preparing  to  march  against  a  tribe  of  Arabs  easC 
of  Lake  Tchad,  who  were  allies  of  the  Sultan  of  Begharmi.  lie  received 
permission  to  take  part  in  this  foray,  and  left;  Kouka  on  the  4th  of  May  ; 
but  as  the  Ramadan,  or  Moslem  fast,  was  just  commencing,  the  expe- 
dition was  put  off  for  a  mom'.  On  the  19th,  news  came  that  Mr.  Tyr- 
whit  had  arrived  at  the  river  Yeou,  and  Major  Denham  went  out  the 
next  day  to  meet  him.  This  gentleman  had  been  sent  out  by  the  British 
government  to  strengthen  the  party.  He  was  the  bearer  of  presents 
to  the  shekh,  in  acknowledgment  of  the  kind  reception  the  expedition 
had  met  with,  and  was  also  accompanied  by  the  shekh's  children,  who 
had  been  detained  at  Mourzuk  by  the  intrigues  of  the  late  Sultan  of 
Fezzan. 

"  On  the  22d  of  May,"  says  Major  Denham,  "  we  delivered  the  pres- 
ents from  his  majesty  in  full  form,  consisting  of  two  swords  of  very 
beautiful  Avorkmanship,  two  pair  of  pistols,  a  dagger,  and  two  gold 
watches.    The  delight,  nay  ecstasy,  with  which  these  well-selected  spcci- 


496 


TRAVELS  OF  DBNHAM  AND  CLAPPBRTON. 


mens  of  our  manufactories  were  received  by  EI  Kanemy,  was  apparent 
in  every  feature  of  his  intelligent  countenance,  and  in  the  quick  glances 
of  his  sparkling  and  penetratbg  eye.  The  dagger  and  the  watch  with 
the  second  movement,  were  the  articles  which  struck  him  most  forcibly ; 
and  when  I  mentioned  that,  agreeably  to  his  request,  a  parcel  of  rock- 
ets had  a'so  been  forwarded,  he  Csxcliumcd :  '  What !  beside  all  these 
riches !  there  arc  no  friends  like  these !  they  are  all  truth ;  and  I  see, 
by  the  Book,  that  if  the  Prophet  had  lived  only  a  short  time  longer, 
they  would  all  have  been  Moslem !'  " 

On  the  16th  of  Juno  Major  Denham  set  out  for  the  eastern  side  of 
Lake  Tchad,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Tyrwhit.  The  military  expedi- 
tion was  commenced  by  Barca  Gana,  who  was  directed  to  take  all 
possible  care  of  the  travelers.  They  crossed  the  Shary  at  Showy, 
and  advanced  between  forty  and  fifty  miles  further  to  the  eastward, 
along  the  shore  of  Lake  Tchad,  till,  on  approaching  Mendoo,  a  large 
town  in  the  rebel  country,  Barca  Gana  ordered  them  to  halt  until 
the  town  should  be  taken,  and  they  were  obliged  to  comply.  Their 
situation  was  very  unpleasant,  as  they  were  exposed  to  attack,  and 
from  their  vicinity  to  the  lake,  suffered  greatly  from  the  flies  and 
mosquitoes.  Here  they  remained  several  days  in  the  greatest  sus- 
pense, their  provisions  daily  becoming  more  scanty.  Finally,  on  the 
evening  of  July  5th,  Barca  Gana  returned  with  about  half  his  troops ; 
he  had  found  the  enemy  so  strongly  entrenched  at  Maou,  the  capita^ 
that  he  did  not  dare  to  attack  them.  Four  days  afterward  he  set  out  to 
capture  the  rebel  sultan  Amai<ook.  who  had  taken  refuge  on  one  of  the 
islands  in  the  lake,  but  was  repulsed  with  severe  loss,  receiving  himself 
a  spear-wound  in  the  back.  Major  Denham  dressed  the  wound  with  an 
application  of  burnt  fat  and  sulphur,  and  succeeded  in  heaUng  the  gen- 
eral, who  advised  him  urgently  to  return  to  Kouka.  "The  excundon,** 
he  said,  "  which  you  wish  to  make,  is  now  impracticable.  We  mast 
wait  for  the  shekh's  appearance  before  we  can  do  any  thing,  and  I  think, 
as  the  rains  have  now  begun  to  fall,  you  will  find  that  the  f^ekh  will  not 
come,  and  that  we  shall  all  return." 

As  wc  had  not  more  than  four  days'  provisions  left.  Major  Denham, 
after  another  consultation  with  Barca  Gana,  determined  to  follow  his 
advice  and  return.  He  had  now  been  ten  days  among  this  tribe  of 
Shouaas,  i/ho  were  a  superior  class  to  any  he  had  met  with ;  they  were 
rich  in  cattle  and  in  camels,  and  seemed  to  live  in  plenty  and  patriarchal 
simplicity.  They  were  a  handsome  race,  the  women  especially,  who 
brought  the  travelers  bowls  of  fresh  milk,  night  and  morning,  in  ex- 
change for  bits  of  amber.  Says  Major  Denham:  "There  is  something 
so  curious,  and  singularly  interesting  and  expressive  in  the  Shouaa  man- 
ners and  language,  that  I  am  at  a  loss  how  to  describe  it.  A  ^rl  sits 
down  by  your  tent  with  a  bowl  of  milk,  a  dark-blue  cotton  wrapper  tied 
around  her  waist,  and  a  mantilla  of  the  same  thrown  over  her  head,  with 
which  she  hides  her  face,  yet  leaves  her  bust  naked.  She  says  *  A  happy 


APPBRTON. 

Kancmy,  was  apparent 
nd  in  the  quick  glances 
;cr  and  the  watch  with 
ruck  him  most  forcibly ; 
quest,  a  parcel  of  rock- 
What!  beside  all  these 
ro  all  truth ;  and  I  see, 
ily  a  short  time  longer, 

for  the  eastern  side  of 
The  military  expedi- 
ras  directed  to  take  all 
I  the  Shary  at  Showy, 
iirther  to  the  eastward, 
laching  Mendoo,  a  large 
jred  them  to  halt  until 
iiged  to  comply.    Their 

exposed  to  attack,  and 
jatly  from  the  flies  and 
ys  in  the  greatest  bus- 

scanty.  Finally,  on  the 
h  about  half  his  troops ; 
ed  at  Maou,  the  capital, 
rs  afterward  he  set  out  to 
ken  refuge  on  one  of  the 
ire  loss,  receiving  himself 
ressed  the  wound  with  an 
seeded  in  healing  the  gen- 
[ouka.  "The  excursion," 
impracticable.  We  must 
lo  any  thing,  and  I  think, 
[id  that  the  c^ekh  will  not 

sions  left,  Major  Denham, 
determined  to  follow  his 
lays  among  this  tribe  of 
bad  met  with ;  they  were 
3  in  plenty  and  patriarchal 
le  women  especially,  who 
light  and  morning,  in  e»- 
ira:  "There  is  something 
essive  in  the  Shouaa  man- 
,o  describe  it.  A  girl  sits 
k-blue  cotton  wrapper  tied 
brown  over  her  head,  with 
laked.  She  says 'A  happy 


1 


\. 


mmi 


mtmmm 


RETURN  OP  CAPTAIN  OLAPPERTON. 


497 


day  to  you  I  Your  friend  has  broiiglit  you  milk ;  you  gave  her  some- 
thing so  handsome  yesterday,  she  has  not  forgotten  it.  Oh  !  how  her 
eyes  ache  to  see  all  you  have  got  in  that  wooden  house ;'  pointing  to  a 
trunk.  •  We  have  no  fears  now ;  we  know  you  are  good ;  and  our  eyes, 
which  before  could  not  look  at  you,  now  search  after  you  always.  They 
bade  us  beware  of  you  at  first,  for  you  were  bad,  very  bad ;  but  we 
know  better  now.    How  it  pains  us  that  you  are  so  white !' " 

On  the  18th  of  July,  after  having  experienced  heavy  rains  and  hurri- 
canes on  the  way,  the  travelers  again  reached  their  residence  in  the  cap- 
ital of  Bomou.  "  On  our  arrival  at  Kouka,"  says  the  narrative,  "  I  found 
that  Captain  Clapperton,  with  a  small  caravan,  had  returned  from  Sou- 
dan. It  was  nearly  eight  months  since  we  had  separated,  and  although 
it  was  mid-day,  I  went  immediately  to  the  hut  where  he  was  lodged ; 
but  so  satisfied  was  I  that  the  sun-burnt,  sickly  person,  who  lay  extended 
on  the  floor,  rolled  in  a  dark-bluo  shirt,  was  not  my  companion,  that  I 
was  about  to  leave  the  place,  when  he  convinced  me  of  my  error  by 
calling  me  by  my  name.  The  alteration  in  him  was  certainly  most 
striking.  Our  meeting  was  a  melancholy  one ;  he  had  buried  his  com- 
panion, and  I  had  also  closed  the  eyes  of  my  younger  and  more  robust 
colleague,  Mr,  Toole.  Notwithstanding  the  state  of  weakness  in  which 
I  found  Captain  Clapperton,  he  yet  spoke  of  returning  to  Soudan  after 
the  rains." 


CLAPPERTON'S  JOUI^NET  TO  SACKATOO. 

Captain  Clapperton  and  Dr.  Oudney,  it  will  be  remembered,  had  left 
Kouka  on  the  14th  of  December,  1823,  for  Soudan,  intending  to  explore 
the  unknown  region  lying  between  Bomou  and  the  Niger.  They  took 
with  them  Jacob,  the  Gibraltar  Jew,  two  servants,  and  three  natives  of 
Fezzan.  The  caravan  consisted  of  twenty-seven  merchants,  two  of  whom 
were  shereefs,  or  descendants  of  the  prophet.  They  took  the  road  to 
tlie  ruins  of  Old  Birnie,  which  Denham  and  Oudney  had  already  visited, 
and  then  proceeded  westward  along  the  banks  of  the  Yeou,  which  was 
much  swollen  from  the  summer  rains.  After  a  journey  of  twelve  days, 
they  entered  the  territory  of  Bedeguna,  which  formerly  belonged  to  the 
Sultan  of  Bomou ;  the  inhabitants  spoke  the  Bomou  language.  They 
are  regarded  as  a  race  of  outlaws,  and  are  subject  to  be  carried  off  as 
slaves  both  by  the  natives  of  Bomou  and  Houssa. 

On  the  2d  of  January,  the  travelers  approached  the  city  of  Katagum, 
and  Avcre  met  by  a  servant  of  the  governor,  with  a  small  basket  of  goora 
nuts.  He  was  followed  by  a  party  of  horsemen  who  came  up  at  full 
gallop,  brandishing  their  spears.  The  leader  remained  behind  with  the 
band  of  music.  The  horsemen,  after  saluting  the  travelers,  wheeled 
around  and  rode  on  before  them,  the  drummers  beating  their  drums, 
and  two  bards  singing  the  praises  of  their  master,  one  of  them  taking 


r 

0 


498 


TRAVELS   OP    DBNHAM    AND    OLAPPERTON. 


the  Bong  and  the  other  responding  with  the  chorus*  The  governor  re- 
ceived them  in  a  very  friendly  manner.  Tliey  remained  at  this  place 
eight  days,  partly  on  account  of  Dr.  Oudney's  illness,  and  partly  to  wait 
for  one  of  the  Bomoueso  who  was  to  accompany  them  to  Sackatoo,  and 
who  had  gone  oft*  to  a  town  called  Iladeeja.  Dr.  Oudney  was  very 
feeble  and  troubled  with  a  distressing  cough,  to  relievo  which  Oiic  of  the 
natives  cupped  him  on  the  side. 

'riiey  left  on  the  10th  of  January,  but  were  obliged  to  stop  the  next 
day  at  noon,  on  account  of  the  increasmg  weakness  of  Dr.  Oudney.    Ho 
had  been  wasting  away  in  a  slow  consumption,  ever  since  leavuig  the 
hills  of  Obarree,  ui  Fezzan,  where  he  was  seized  with  mflammation  of  the 
chest,  in  consequence  of  sitting  down  in  a  current  of  cold  air  after  being 
heated.    On  the  12th,  Captain  Clapperton  writes :  "  Dr.  Oudney  drank 
a  cup  of  coffee  at  day-break,  and,  by  hU  desire,  I  ordered  the  camels  to 
bo  loaded.    I  then  assisted  him  to  dress,  and,  with  the  support  of  his 
servant,  he  came  out  of  the  tent;  but,  before  he  could  be  lifted  on  the 
camel,  I  observed  the  ghastliness  of  death  in  his  countenance,  and  had 
him  unmediately  replaced  in  the  tent.    I  sat  down  by  his  side,  and  with 
unspeakable  grief,  witnessed  his  last  breath,  which  was  without  a  strug- 
gle or  a  groan.    I  now  sent  to  the  governor  of  tho  town  to  request  his 
permission  to  bury  the  deceased,  which  ho  readily  granted ;  and  I  had  a 
grave  made  near  an  old  mimosa-tree,  a  little  beyond  tho  southern  gate 
of  the  town.    The  body  being  first  washed,  after  the  custom  of  the  cotm  • 
try,  was  dressed  by  my  directions  in  clothes  made  of  turban  shawk, 
which  wo  were  carrying  with  us  as  presents.    Tho  corpse  was  bomo  to 
the  grave  by  our  servants,  and  I  read  over  it  the  funeral  service  of  tho 
church  of  England,  before  it  was  consigned  to  tho  earth.    I  afterward 
caused  the  grave  to  bo  inclosed  with  a  wall  of  clay,  to  keep  off  bcjists  of 
prey,  and  had  two  sheep  killed  and  distributed  among  the  poor." 

Clapperton  now  continued  his  journey  alone,  and  two  days  afterward 
entered  the  kingdom  of  Houssa.    The  country  was  highly  cultivated, 

•  Captain  Clapperton  gives  the  following  translation  of  tho  song: 
"  Give  flesh  to  the  hyenas  at  day-break : 

Oh,  the  broad  spears  1 
The  spear  of  the  sultan  is  the  broadest — 

Oh,  the  broad  spears  1 
I  behold  thee  now,  I  desire  to  see  none  other ; 

Oh,  the  broad  spears  I 
My  horse  is  as  tall  as  a  high  wall : 

Oh,  the  broad  spears  I 
The  elephant  of  the  forest  brings  me  what  I  want: 

Oh,  the  broad  spears  1 
Be  brave  I  be  bravo  1  my  friends  and  kinsmen: 

Oh,  the  broad  spears  I 
God  is  great  I  I  wax  fierce  as  a  beast  of  prey : 

Oh,  the  broad  spears  I 
God  is  great !    To-day  those  I  wished  for  are  come ; 

Oh,  the  broad  spears  I" 


HM 


MM 


MMM 


PRRTON.  I 

"    The  governor  rc- 

lained  at  this  place  | 

a,  and  partly  to  wait  j 

lem  to  Sackatoo,  and  , 

ir.  Oudncy  was  very  | 

icvo  which  oac  of  the  ■ 

iged  to  stop  the  next  j 
I  of  Dr.  Oudncy.  Hu  , 
k'cr  since  leaving  the  { 
;h  inflammation  of  the  i 
jf  cold  air  after  Wing     | 

"  Dr.  Oudney  drank     ; 
ordered  the  camels  to 
th  the  Bupport  of  hia 
could  be  lifted  on  the 
countenance,  and  had 
1  by  his  side,  and  with 
li  was  without  a  strug- 
10  town  to  request  his 
r  granted ;  and  I  had  a 
ond  the  southern  gate 
;he  custom  of  the  co)m  • 
lade  of  turban  shawls, 
10  corpse  was  borne  to 
!  funeral  service  of  the 
he  earth.    I  afterward 
y,  tokeepoffbciistsof 
nong  the  poor." 
ind  two  days  afterward 

was  highly  cultivated, 

ho  song: 


I  other ; 

bat  I  want: 

inamen: 

if  prey: 

for  are  oome; 


UESIDENJK    AT    KANO. 


499 


a.id  diversified  by  hill  and  dale.  There  were  many  largo  walled  towns, 
quite  deserted,  the  inhabitants  having  bpcii  curriod  off  and  sold  by  their 
conquerors,  the  Felatahs.  On  the  20tli  of  January,  he  approached  the 
large  city  of  Kano,  and  prei)ared  hims('lf  for  the  reception  by  arraying 
himself  in  his  naval  uniform.  "At  11  o'clock,'"  says  he,  "  we  entered 
Kano,  the  great  cniporiiun  of  the  kingdom  of  Iloussa ;  but  I  had  no 
sooner  passed  the  gates  than  I  felt  grievously  disappointed ;  for  from  the 
flourishing  description  of  it  given  by  the  Arabs,  I  expected  to  see  a  city 
of  surprising  grandeur.  I  found,  on  the  contrary,  the  houses  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  Avails,  and  in  many  paits  scattered  into  de- 
tached groups,  between  large  stagnant  jiools  of  water.  I  might  have 
BiKired  all  the  pains  I  had  taken  with  my  toilet ;  for  not  an  individual 
turned  his  head  around  to  gaze  at  me,  but  all,  intent  on  their  own  busi- 
ness, allowed  mo  to  passs  by  without  notice  or  remark." 

lie  innnediatcly  called  upon  a  jierson  named  Hat  Salah,  to  whom  he 
had  a  letter  of  recommendation  from  the  shekh  of  Bornou.  This  person, 
having  heard  of  his  coming  the  day  before,  had  hired  a  house  for  him, 
but,  says  Clapperton,  "  the  houso  provided  for  me  was  situated  at  the 
end  of  a  marsh,  the  pestilential  exhalations  of  M'hich,  and  of  the  pools  of 
standing  water,  were  increased  by  the  sewers  of  the  houses  all  opening 
in  the  street.  I  was  fatigued  and  siek,  and  lay  down  on  a  mat  which 
the  owner  of  the  house  spread  for  me.  I  was  iinuicdiately  visited  by  all 
the  Arab  merchants  who  had  been  my  fellow-travelers  from  Kouka,  and 
Avere  not  jirevented  by  sickness  from  coming  to  see  me.  They  were 
more  like  ghosts  thaii  men,  as  almost  all  strangers  A\ere  at  this  tune  suf- 
fering from  intermittent  fever." 

Two  days  afterward,  Clapperton  visited  the  governor,  Avho  was 
then  encamped  about  five  miles  e.ast  of  the  city.  He  took  Avith  him  a 
number  of  presents,  among  Avhich  was  a  broken  thermometer,  which,  he 
was  given  to  understand,  would  bo  A'cry  acceptable.  A  thermometer  was 
descriptively  named  by  the  natives  *'  a  AA'atch  of  heat,"  and  was  everyAvhere 
regarded  by  them  as  a  great  curiosity.  The  governor,  who  Avas  the 
father  of  fifty  sons — a  circumstance,  Avhich  procured  him  much  respect 
and  honor — received  him  with  great  kindness,  and  promised  to  send  a 
messenger  to  the  sultan,  at  Sackatoo,  requesting  permission  for  him  to 
proceed.  This  permission,  hoAvever,  did  not  arrive  for  a  month,  during 
which  time  the  traveler  remained  domiciled  at  Kano. 

"  The  city,"  says  he,  "  may  contain  from  thirty  thousand  to  forty  tliou- 
sand  resident  inhabitants,  of  Avhom  more  than  one  half  are  slaves.  It  is  ren- 
dered very  imhealthy  by  a  large  morass,  which  almost  divides  it  into  two 
parts,  besides  many  pools  of  stagnant  water,  made  by  digging  clay  for 
building  houses.  On  the  north  side  of  the  city  are  two  remarkable 
mounts,  each  about  two  hundred  feet  in  height,  and  a  trifling  distance; 
apart.  The  city  is  of  an  irregular  oval  sha{>e,  about  fifteen  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  surrounded  by  a  clay  wall  thirty  feet  high,  with  a  dry 
ditch  along  the  inside,  and  another  on  the  outside.    There  are  fifteen 


600 


TRAVKLS    OP    DENHAM    AND    CLAPPEUTOK. 


i^; 


L'atiii  of  wo..a,  covered  with  Bhect-iron,  which  arc  rt.j,n,larly  opcnoa  an.l 
Hhut'  at  Hunrise  ami  Hunset.  The  houscH  are  built  of  chiy  ami  arc  mostly 
of  a  square  form,  in  the  Moorish  fashion,  with  a  central  hall  ot  au.l.encc 
ana  store-rooms  on  the  grouml-floor,  and  a  second  story  oontammg  the 
Bleeping  apartments.  I  bought  in  the  market,  for  three  Span-sh  dollars 
an  English  green  cotton  umbrella,  an  article  I  Uttle  expected  to  mott 
with,  yet  by  no  means  uncommon  ;  my  Moorish  servants,  m  their  hgu-  ^ 
rative  language,  were  wont  to  give  it  the  name  of '  the  cloud.  i 

Captain  Clappcrton  had  heard  a  great  deal  about  the  boxers  of 
IIou8sa,and  was  anxious  to  witness  their  perf..rmanees.     He  sent  one 
of  his  servants  to  offer  2,000  cowries  for  an  exhibition  botoro  his  house 
As  the  death  of  one  of  the  combatants  was  almost  certain,  he  prohibi  e.l 
all  fighting  in  earnest.     "  A  ring  was  80.m  formed,  by  the  master  of  the 
ceremonies  throwing  dust  on  tho  spectators  to  make  them  stand  bac^k 
The  drummers  entered  the  ring,  and  began  to  drum  lustily.     One  of  the 
boxers  foUowcd,  quite  naked,  except  a  skin  around  the  middle.    lie 
placed  himself  in  an  attitude,  as  if  to  oppose  an  antagonist,  and  wrought 
L  muscles  into  action,  seemingly  to  find  out  that  every  mnew  was  m 
full  force  for  the  approaching  combat;  then,  coming  from  time  to  time 
to  the  side  of  the  ring,  and  presenting  his  riglit  arm  to  the  bystanders, 
he  said :  '  I  am  a  hyena;  I  am  a  lion ;  I  am  able  to  kil    all  that  oppose 
me.'    Tho  spectators,  to  whom  ho  presented  himself,  laid  their  hands 
upon  his  shoulders  repeating:  'The  blessing  of  God  be  upon  thee    t^^^ou 
art  a  hyena ;  thou  art  a  Hon.'    Ho  then  abandoned  the  ring  to  another, 
^vho  showed  off  in  the  same  manner.    The  right  haml  and  arm  of  he 
pugilists  were  now  bound  with  narrow  country  coth    beginning  with  a 
fold  around  tho  middle  finger,  when  the  hand  being  first  chnched  with 
tiie  thumb  between  tho  fore  and  mid  fingers,  the  cloth  wa«  passed  m 
many  turns  around  the  fist,  the  wrist,  and  the  ^re-arm.    After  about 
twenty  had  separately  gone  through  the  attitudes  of  defiance,  and  aj. 
peals  to  tlie  bystanders,  they  were  next  brought  forward  by  pairs.  If  thej 
happened  to  be  friends,  they  laid  their  lea  breasts  together  twice,  and  ex- 
chid  :  '  We  are  lions ;  we  are  friends.'    If  the  two  did  not  recognize 
each  other  as  friends,  the  set-to  immediately  commenced.     On  taking 
their  stations,  the  two  pugilists  first  stood  at  some  distance,  parrying 
with  the  left  hand  open,  and,  whenever  an  opportunity  offered,  strik- 
,„.r  with  the  right.    They  generally  aimed  at  tho  pit  of  tho  stomach,  and 
lUKler  the  ribs.    When  they  break  loose,  they  never  fail  to  give  a  swing- 
ing blow  with  the  heel  under  tho  ribs,  or  sometimes  under  the  left  ear. 
It  b  these  blows  which  are  so  often  fatal."  , .  .  ^    ,  .    ^, 

The  permission  of  the  Sultan  of  Iloussa,  for  which  Captam  Clapper- 
ton  had  been  waiting,  arrived  on  the  22d  day  of  February,  and  on  the 
foUowing  day  he  left  Kano  for  Sackatoo.  After  tniveling  eighteen  days, 
without  particular  incident,  ho  reached  the  town  of  Quarry  where  ho 
was  met  by  an  escort  of  an  hundred  and  fifty  horsemen,  sent  forward  by 
the  Sultan  of  Iloussa.   On  the  third  day  afterAvard  he  approached  Sacka- 


PPERTON.  1 

ri'gdlarly  opontil  ftinl 
)(  cluy,  aiul  arc  uioaily 
Mitral  hall  of  aiuVu-nce 
1  Btory  oontiiiniiig  tho 
•  three  Spair«h  dollars, 
ttlo  cxpecteil  to  meet 
servants,  in  their  figu- 
f '  the  cloud.' " 
i  about  tho  boxers  of 
•manees.     Ho  sent  one 
lition  before  his  hoiise. 
it  certaii\,  he  prohibited 
d,  by  the  master  of  the 
(iiako  them  stand  bact. 
rum  lustily.     One  of  the 
roimd  tho  middle.    lie 
antagonist,  andwrouglit 
that  every  sinew  was  in 
ming  from  time  to  time 
;t  arm  to  the  bystanders, 
Ic  to  kill  all  that  oppose 
limself,  laid  their  hands 
God  be  upon  thee !  thou 
pned  tho  ring  to  another, 
rht  hand  and  arm  of  the 
}  cloth,  beginning  with  a 
[being  first  clinched  with 
t,  the  cloth  was  passed  in 
|c  fore-arm.    After  about 
udes  of  defiance,  and  a\y- 
forward  by  piurs.  If  they 
its  together  twice,  and  ex- 
he  two  did  not  recognize 
commenced.    On  taking 
t  some  distance,  parrying 
Ipportimity  offered,  strik- 
■ho  pit  of  tho  stomach,  and 
never  fail  to  give  a  swing- 
letimes  under  tho  left  ear. 

,or  which  Captain  Clapper- 
\y  of  February,  and  on  the 

pr  traveling  eighteen  days, 
Jtown  of  Quarra,  where  ho 
lhor8emen,Bent  forward  by 

vard  he  approached  Sacka- 


INTEnVIEW    WITH    SULTAN   BKLLO. 


501 


too,  followed  by  his  escort  and  A  numerous  retinue,  with  n  loud  flotirish 
of  horns  and  trumpets.  To  impress  tho  natives  still  further  with  liis 
official  importance,  ho  arrayed  himself  in  his  lieutenant's  coat,  trimmed 
with  gold  lace,  white  trowsers,  silk  stockings,  and,  to  complete  his  finery, 
red  Turkish  slippers  and  a  turban.  The  valleys  between  tlio  hills  b('- 
c.'une  wider  as  tliey  apitro.iched  Haekatoo,  which  they  first  beheld  from 
tho  top  of  an  eminence.  At  noon  they  entered  the  capital,  whcns  a 
great  number  of  people  was  asaetnbled  to  look  at  tho  traveler,  who 
entered  the  city  amid  tho  hearty  welcomes  of  young  and  old.  lie  was 
conducted  to  the  house  of  tlio  vizier,  Avhere  apartments  had  been  j)re- 
pared  for  him. 

The  next  day  ho  called  upon  Sultan  Rello,  who  received  him  very 
cordially.  lie  was  a  noble-looking  man,  forty-four  years  of  age,  five  feet 
ten  inches  high,  portly  in  person,  with  a  short,  curling  black  beard,  a 
small  mouth,  a  fine  forehead,  a  Grecian  nose,  and  large  black  eyes. 
He  asked  many  questions  about  Europe,  and  the  religious  distinctions 
of  the  Franks.  lie  was  acquainted  with  the  names  of  the  ancient  sects, 
and  asked  whether  the  English  Avere  Nestorians  or  Socinians.  Cap- 
tain Clapperton  also  read  him  some  passages  out  of  a  book,  in  order 
that  lie  might  hear  the  sound  of  tho  English  language,  which  ho  thought 
beautiful.  On  being  presented  with  a  compass,  spy-glass,  and  other 
articles,  he  said :  "  Every  thing  is  wonderful ;  but  you  are  the  greatest 
curiosity  of  all."  Ho  perused  tho  letter  of  the  Shekh  of  Bomou,  and 
assured  Clajiperton  that  ho  was  at  liberty  to  visit  every  part  of  his 
dominions,  including  Yaouri  and  Nyffe,  which  the  latter  was  anxious  to 
reach,  in  tho  hope  of  learning  something  further  concernmg  tho  fate 
of  Park. 

From  an  interview  a  faw  days  after  this,  however,  Clapperton  saw 
that  the  sultan  was  becoming  suspicious.  Ho  observed  that  there  were 
two  roads  leading  to  Nyffe — one  direct,  but  beset  by  enemies,  the 
other  safer,  but  circuitous ;  that  by  cither  route  ho  would  bo  detained, 
during  tho  rains,  in  a  country  then  in  open  rebellion.  "  I  assured  hira,'» 
says  Clapperton,  "  that  I  had  already  taken  the  matter  into  considerap 
tion,  and  that  I  was  neither  afraid  of  tho  dangers  of  tho  road  nor  of  the 
rains.  '  Think  of  it  with  prudence,'  he  replied,  and  we  parted.  From 
the  tone  and  manner  with  which  this  was  spoken,  I  felt  a  foreboding 
that  my  intended  visit  to  Yaotiri  and  Nyffe  was  at  an  end.  I  could  not 
help  suspecting  the  intrigues  of  the  Arabs  to  bo  the  cause ;  as  they  well 
knew,  if  the  native  Africans  were  once  acquainted  with  English  com- 
merce by  tho  way  of  the  sea,  their  own  lucrative  inland  trade  would 
from  that  moment  cease."  Clapperton's  surmises  were  correct,  and 
after  several  further  consultations  on  the  subject  he  was  obliged  to 
give  up  the  plan  of  proceeding  beyond  Sackatoo.  After  a  residence 
of  six  weeks  in  the  Felatah  capital,  during  which  he  had  a  severe  attack 
of  fever,  he  began  to  prepare  for  his  return  journey  to  Bomou. 

He  gives  the  following  description  of  tho  city :  "  It  lies  in  latitude 


i. 


502  TRAVELS    Ol-'    DKNUAM    \N'U    C  I,  A  1>  I' K  UTO.V. 

13"  4'  north,  im.l  U.njritu.lo  ti"  iJ'  v^M,  nUnM  lour  .lus  jminu-y  from  tho 
Oi.urni  or  Niijor.  Thu  im.nc,  ii.  their  lui.-.m-.',  Mgrnlus  a  hult.nK- 
Ic/tho  city  WU.S  built,  as  near  as  1  euuM  lean.,  about  tho  year 
1805.  It  occupies  a  Ion-  ria^c  which  h1o,,os  ucnl  y  towar.l  he  north, 
and  a,.i.carc<l  to  n,c  tho  ino.t  populoUH  tow..  I  had  vw.ttMl  m  tho 
iutcrior  of  Africa,  for  u,.liko  other  tow.s  i..  1  luusna  wh.rc  tho  ho.mcs 
a,-o  thh.ly  scattered,  it  is  h.i.l  out  in  .v^.Ua.-,  wd  -bu.lt  «trect.s  Il.o 
wall  id  between  twenty  and  thirty  feet  h.gh,  and  has  twelve  gate. , 
which  are  regularly  closed  at  H.n.set.  There  is  a  spacious  market- 
place  in  tho  center  of  the  city,  an.l  another  la.-ge  scjuare  in  front  ol 
!he  sultan's  residence.  The  dwellh.gs  of  the  i.rinc.pal  people  arc  sur- 
rounded  by  high  walls,  which  h.close  nume.-ous  flat-roofl-d  houses  bu.lt 
i„  the  Moorish  style.    Tho  i..habitants  are  principaUy  lelatahs,  possess- 

ing  numerous  slaves."  i- nf    ,  ,  „^ 

Captain  Clapperton  set  out  on  his  return,  on  tho  4tli  of  May,  pro- 
ceciling  to  Kano  by  way  of  the  largo  town  of  Kashna.  On  tho  8th  ot 
July  ho  reached  Kouka,  duru.g  Major  Dcnham's  absence  on  a  visit  to 
the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Tchad.  Ilillman,  the  carpenter,  was  bus.  y 
employed  «i  tinishing  a  covered  cart,  to  be  used  as  a  conveyance  for  ho 
shekh's  wives.  Tho  workmanship,  considering  tho  materials,  n  fleeted 
the  greatest  credit  on  his  ingenuity ;  the  wheels  were  hooped  with  iron, 
and  the  cart  was  extremely  strong,  though  neither  hght  nor  handsome. 
Captain  Clapporton  unmediately  waited  on  tho  shekh,  who  i.uiuircd  aller 
his  health,  and  expressed  much  regret  at  Dr.  Oudney'a  death. 


RETURN    TO    EUROPE, 

The  travelerfl  had  now  accomplished  the  principal  objects  of  their 
mission  and  explored  as  much  of  Central  Africa  as  was  practicable  with- 
out remaining  another  season,  which,  in  their  state  of  health,  wjm  not 
advisable.    They  therefore  deternuned  to  return  to   Tripoli  with  tho 
annnal  caravan  of  slaves,  which  passed  through  Bornou  on  its  way  from 
Soudan.    This  caravan  arrived  at  Kouka  on  tho  1 3th  of  August.       On 
Monday,  the  16th,"  says  Miyor  Denham,  "wo  took  our  final  leave  ot 
Kouka,  and  not  without  many  feelings  of  regret,  so  accustomed  had  wo 
become,  particukrly  myself,  to  the  people.    In  the  morning  I  had  taken 
leave  of  the  shekh  in  his  garden,  when  ho  had  given  me  a  letter  to  the 
king  and  a  list  of  requests:  he  was  all  kindness,  and  said  he  had  only 
one  wish,  which  was  that  I  might  find  all  ray  friends  well,  and  once 
more  return  to  them.    He  gave  me  his  hand  at  parting,  which  excited 
an  involuntary  exclamation  of  astonishment  from  the  six  eunuchs  and 
the  vizier,  who  were  the  only  persons  present." 

The  travelers  preceded  the  caravan  a  few  days,  in  order  to  attempt 
to  reach  the  unvisited  eastern  side  of  Lake  Tchad,  through  tho  country 
of  Kanem.     On  the  23d  they  crossed  the  river  Yeou,  and  Denham  ob- 


I'PKRTOK. 

l;v_vs  journey  from  ll'.o 

biifiiitii's  a  '  liultinK- 

i-iini,  alx'iit  tlio  )f:ir 

lly  towiinl  tho  north, 

I  hud  vwitctl  in  tho 
issii,  whi-ro  the  houses 
oil-built  Htrc'ots.  Tho 
m\  hiw  twclvo  gates, 

is  u  Hpaeious  niarket- 
igo  siiunrw  in  front  of 
n<;ip«l  people  arc  sur- 
lliit-roofed  houses  built 
pally  Fflatahs,  possess- 

,u  tho  4th  of  ^lay,  pvo- 
ishna.    On  the  8th  of 
x'a  absence  on  a  visit  tt» 
»e  carpenter,  was  busily 
iw  a  conveyance  for  tlui 
tho  materials,  rcttccted 
wei-e  hooped  with  iron, 
l»er  light  nor  handsome. 
ihckh,"vlio  iiKiuircd  after 
idney'a  death. 


B. 

rincipal  objects  of  their 
as  was  practicable  with- 

state  of  health,  was  not 

urn  to  Tripoli  with  tho 
Bornou  on  its  way  from 

0  13th  of  August.    "On 
took  our  final  leave  of 

!t,  so  accustomed  had  wo 
the  morning  I  had  taken 
;iven  me  a  letter  to  tho 
18,  and  said  he  had  only 
ly  friends  well,  and  once 
at  parting,  which  excited 
rom  the  six  eunuchs  and 

days,  in  order  to  attempt 
lad,  through  the  country 
r  Yeou,  and  Denham  ob- 


■WKLCOMK    AT    MOUnZtTK. 


008 


Rcrvos:  "My  feelings  on  seeing  this  river  f<)r  a  second  timo  wore  very 
(litterent  from  what  thoy  had  been  when  I  first  looked  on  its  waters. 
We  liad  then  an  es«-ort  of  two  hundred  men,  and  ye»  could  not  feel  our- 
selves in  jiertect  safety  one  hundred  yards  from  oiu-  tents.  Now  I  had 
only  one  attendant — the  |M>opIe  about  mc  were  all  natives,  and  I  wan- 
dered about  the  banks  of  tho  river  witli  |>erfeet  freedom,  !ind  slept  with 
my  tent-tloor  open,  in  as  great  a  security  as  I  could  liav(^  doiio  in  any 
part  of  England,  had  I  been  obliged  so  to  travel.  Other  feelings  .also 
obtruded  themselves;  I  was  about  to  return  home,  to  see  onc((  mom 
dear  friends  and  n  dear  country,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  three  years, 
on  a  duty  full  of  perils  and  difllculties  j  two  out  of  four  of  my  companions 
had  fallen  victims  to  climate  and  disease,  while  those  who  remained  were 
suft'oring,  in  no  small  degree,  from  sickncas  and  debility." 

At  Woodio  Major  Denham  met  with  Uarca  Gana,  who,  after  an  al>- 
senco  of  five  months,  had  completed  tho  circuit  of  tho  lake.  Tho  latter 
gave  him  a  guard  of  eighteen  men,  with  which  ho  advanced  about  fifty 
miles  eastward  along  tho  shore  of  tho  lake,  when  the  journey  became  so 
dangerous,  that  tho  guard  refused  to  go  further,  and  Denham  was  com- 
pelled to  return.  Ho  therefore  pitched  his  tent  at  Woodio,  to  await  tho 
arrival  of  tho  carav.an  from  Konka,  which  did  not  finally  depart  for  the 
desert  nntil  tho  14th  of  Sei)tcmhor.  "  Wo  had  tho  satisfaction,"  says 
Major  Denham,  "  to  find  throughout  our  journey,  that,  young  as  wo 
were  at  desert  traveling,  yet  wo  got  on  as  well,  if  not  better,  than  our 
companions ;  and  though  children  of  tho  soil,  they  always  looked  to  ns, 
instead  of  us  to  them,  both  for  safety  and  protection,  as  well  as  the 
direction  of  tho  route." 

Tho  caravan  arrived  at  Bilma  on  tho  11th  of  October,  and  proceeding 
by  easy  journeys  toward  Fezzan,  reached  Gatrono  on  tho  14th  of  No- 
vember. This  place,  before  so  miserable  in  their  eyes,  now  seemed  a 
little  paradise.  Seven  days  afterward  they  entered  Mourzuk,  and  took 
up  their  residence  in  their  old  habitation.  Prayer  w.as  offered  up  in  the 
mosque  for  their  safe  return  home.  "  All  welcomed  our  return ;  we  had 
bowls  of  bazeen  and  kooacosoo  night  and  morning,  and  visitors  from  day- 
light until  long  after  sunset.  *  *  *  On  the  12th  of  December  wo 
Avero  all  resvdy  for  our  departure,  and  on  the  13th  took  our  leave.  The 
cold  of  Mourzuk  had  pinched  us  terribly,  and  notwithstanding  we  used 
an  additional  blanket  both  day  and  night,  one  of  us  had  cold  and  swelled 
neck,  another  ague,  and  a  third  pains  in  the  limbs — all,  I  believe,  prin- 
cipally from  tho  chilliness  of  the  air :  yet  the  thermometer,  at  simrise, 
was  not  lower  than  forty-two  and  forty-three  degrees. 

"  On  the  25th  of  January,  1825,  we  reached  a  well  within  ten  miles 
of  Tripoli ;  and  previous  to  arriving  there  were  met  by  two  cawasses  of 
the  pasha,  with  one  of  the  consul's  servants.  We  found  the  consul's 
tents,  but  he  had  been  obliged  to  return  on  business  to  the  city ;  and 
the  satisfaction  with  which  we  devoured  some  anchovy  toasts,  and 
washed  them  down  with  huge  draughts  of  Marsala  wme,  in  tumblers — 


'■a-* 


504     TRAVELS  OF  DBNHAM  AND  CLAPPERTON. 

luxuries  we  had  bo  long  indeed  been  strangers  to-was  quite  indescriba. 
ble  We  slept  soundly  after  our  feast,  and  on  the  26th,  were  met  by  the 
consul  and  his  eldest  son,  whose  satisfaction  at  our  safe  return  seemed 
equal  to  our  own.  We  entered TripoU  the  same  day,  where  ahousehad 
been  provided  for  us.  Our  long  absence  from  civilized  society  appeared 
to  have  an  effect  on  our  manner  of  speaking,  which,  though  we  were  un- 
conscious of  it,  occasioned  the  remarks  of  our  friends:  even  "^  common 
conversation  our  tone  was  so  loud  as  almost  to  alarm  those  we  addressed, 
and  it  was  some  weeks  before  we  could  moderate  our  voices  so  as  to 
bring  them  in  harmony  with  the  confined  space  in  which  we  were  now 

exercising  them." 

Denham  and  Clapperton  had  a  stormy  passage  to  Leghorn,  where 
they  were  obUged  to  perform  a  quarantine  of  twenty-five  days.  From 
Leghorn  HiUman  was  sent  home  by  sea  with  the  Uving  animals,  collec- 
tions, and  baggage  of  the  expedition.  The  two  travelers  crossed  the 
Alps,  and  reached  London  on  the  Ist  of  June,  after  an  absence  from 
England  of  three  years  and  a  half. 


"lPPERTON. 

—was  quite  indescribsp 
26th,  were  met  by  the 
or  safe  return  seemed 
Jay,  where  a  house  had 
ilized  society  appeared 
h,  though  we  were  un- 
ends :  even  in  common 
rm  those  we  addressed, 
,te  our  voices  so  as  to 
in  which  we  were  now 

age  to  Leghorn,  where 
renty-five  days.  From 
!  living  animals,  coUec- 
)  travelers  crossed  the 
after  an  absence  from 


CLAPPEETON^S 

SECOND     JOURNEY    TO    SACKATOO. 


During  Captam  Clapperton's  first  visit  to  Sackatoo,  in  the  year 
1824,  he  was  given  to  understand  that  the  establishment  of  a  friend'y 
intercourse  >nth  England  would  be  most  agreeable  to  Sultan  Belb  that 
he  latter  wished  particularly  for  certain  articles  of  EngUsh  manufecture 
to  be  sent  out  to  the  sea-coast,  where  there  was  a  largf  port  bdongW 
to  him,  called  Funda.  He  also  desired  that  an  Enjish  phySJaS 
consul  should  be  sent  to  another  port,  caUed  Rakka,VonJ  ng  to  se^d 
an  agent  to  the  latter  place,  to  transact  all  matters  of  business^etween 
the  two  governments.  "ci-wccu 

urst^^tht'rT^il^''"'''^  ""'^  Clapperton  to  England,  Lord  Bath- 
nrllw  \  *  Secretary),  considering  this  a  favorable  opportunity 

of  estabhshmg  an  mtercourse  with  the  interior  of  Africa,  and  probab  v 
of  checking  the  trade  in  slaves,  adopted  Clapperton's  suggestions,  and 
dispatched  hmi  on  a  second  mission  to  Sackatoo,  by  wa/ff  the  BigM 

that  the  latter  should  send  down  his  messengers  to  Whydah  on  the 
coast,  to  meet  Captain  Clapperton  and  his  companions.  On  the' arrival 
of  the  latter  at  Benm,  however,  they  could  neither  gain  any  intelligence 
of  BeUo's  messengers,  nor  did  the  people  know  any  thmg  of  such  places 
as  Funda  and  Rakka.  It  has  since  been  ascertained  fha  both  these 
towns  are  upon  the  Niger,  at  least  two  hundred  miles  from  the  sea. 

Captain  Clapperton  was  aUowed  to  take  with  him,  as  companion  a 
surgeon  by  the  name  of  Dickson,  who  had  been  seasoned  by  a  rSnce 
m  the  West  Indies.    In  an  enterprise  of  so  hazardous  a  /ature,  t  w^ 

a  more  thorough  survey  of  the  different  countries  of  Soudan.  For  this 
wir' 1  ??""  P^^'-f '.of  the  navy,  and  Dr.  Morrison,  a  naval  surgeon, 
were  selected;   one   being  a  good  draughtsman,  and  the  other  weU 

srrv!n/??°f  Tl^'T^'  ^*P*^  Clapperton  also  took  with  him  his 
servant,  Richard  Lander,  and  tb-  mulatto  Columbus,  who  had  been  in 
the  service  of  Major  Denham.    The  party  saUed  from  England  on  th^ 


506      CLAPPERTON'S    SECOND    JOURNEY    TO   8ACKAT00. 

2nii  of  August,  and  arrived  in  the  Bight  of  Benin  on  the  26th  of  No- 
vembur,  1825.  Dr.  Dickson,  being  desirous  of  proceeding  alone  to 
Sackatoo,  Avas  landed  at  Whydah,  and  accompanied  by  Columbus,  pro- 
ceeded to  Dahomey,  where  he  was  well  received.  He  was  sent  forward 
to  a  place  called  Shar,  seventeen  days'  journey  further,  beyond  which 
nothing  more  was  ever  afterward  heard  of  him. 

Captain  Clapperton  M-as  persuaded  by  a  trader  named  Iloutson,  to 
make  Badagry  his  starting-point ;  ho  agreed  to  accompany  him  as  far 
as  Eyeo,  or  Katunga,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Yoriba.  UTiey 
landed  on  the  27th  of  November,  and  after  having  made  arrangements 
to  have  their  baggage  sent  after  them,  started  on  their  jourtiey  into  the 
interior  on  the  7th  of  December.  As  they  were  under  the  protection 
of  the  King  of  Badagry,  they  met  with  no  difficulties  in  the  early  part 
of  their  '  oute.  At  the  different  towns  they  were  always  received  by  the 
caboceers,  or  chief  men,  to  whom  they  made  small  presents,  and  who 
supplied  them  with  lodgings  and  provisions.  In  two  or  three  days  they 
entered  the  territories  of  the  king  of  Yoriba,  after  which  they  ex- 
perienced some  trouble  in  procuring  men  and  beasts  to  transport  their 
baggage.  Their  road  led  through  dense  forests,  the  dampness  of  which, 
added'to  the  fact  of  their  traveling  partly  by  night,  brought  on  attacks 
of  fever  and  ague,  with  which  the  whole  party  suffered. 

On  the  13th  thcv  reached  the  town  of  Laboo.  The  country  now 
became  more  agreeable,  rising  into  hill  and  dale,  with  fine  prospects. 
They  approached  the  town  by  the  moonlight  through  an  avenue  of 
majestic  trees,  with  fetish-houses  placed  here  and  there,  and  solitary 
lights  burning  in  each.  Two  days  afterward  they  reached  the  largo 
town  of  Jannah,  where  the  caboceer,  who  at  first  received  them  in  rather 
a  reserved  and  ceremonious  manner,  finally  assured  them  that  they 
might  proceed  safely  as  far  as  Eyeo,  the  capital,  but  he  did  not  believe 
that  the  king  would  allow  them  to  go  beyond  it.  "I  can  not,"  says 
Clapperton,  "  omit  bearing  testimony  to  the  singular  and  perhaps  unpre- 
cedented fact  that  we  have  already  traveled  sixty  miles  in  eight  days, 
with  a  numerous  and  heavy  baggage,  and  about  ten  different  relays  of 
carriers,  without  losing  so  much  as  the  value  of  a  shilling,  public  or 

private."  . 

Meanwhile  the  sick  continued  to  grow  worse,  with  the  exception  ot 
Richard  Lander,  who,  after  being  bled  on  the  temple  and  bUstered  on 
the  head,  improved.  On  the  23d,  Dr.  Morrison  was  so  weak  that  he 
determined  to  return,  and  Mr.  Houtson  was  sent  back  to  take  charge 
of  him.  On  the  following  day,  at  a  town  caUed  Egga,  a  seaman  named 
George  Dawson,  died,  and  was  buried  the  same  evening.  Three  days 
afterward,  Captain  Pearce  died,  and  was  buried  near  the  town  of  En- 
gwa,  the  whole  of  the  population  attending  the  funeral.  The  grave 
was  staked  around  by  the  natives,  and  a  shed  built  over  it:  Richard 
Lander  carved  an  inscription  on  a  board,  and  placed  it  at  the  head. 
Clapperton  now  determined  to  wmt  for  Mr.  Houtson,  who  returned  on 


1 


SACKATOO. 

on  the  20th  of  No- 
ocecding  alono  to 
by  Columbus,  pro- 
[e  vraa  sent  forward 
ther,  beyond  which 

! 

named  Iloutrfon,  to 
3ompany  him  as  far 

I  of  Yoriba.  They 
made  arrangements 
eir  journey  into  the 
ader  the  protection 
:ies  in  the  early  part 
vays  received  by  the 

II  presents,  and  who 

0  or  three  days  they 
fter  which  they  ex- 
sts  to  transport  their 
3  dampness  of  which, 
t,  brought  on  attacks 
bred. 

0.  The  country  now 

1,  with  fine  prospects, 
rough  an  avenue  of 

1  there,  and  solitary 
ey  reached  the  largo 
ceived  them  in  rather 
ircd  them  that  they 
»ut  he  did  not  believe 
b.  "I  can  not,"  says 
ar  and  perhaps  unpre- 
miles  in  eight  days, 
ten  different  relays  of 
•  a  shilling,  public  or 

jpith  the  exception  of 
mple  and  blistered  on 
was  so  weak  that  he 
back  to  take  charge 
igga,  a  seaman  named 
evening.    Three  days 
near  the  town  of  En- 
I  funeral.    The  grave 
)uilt  over  it:  Richard 
)laced  it  at  the  head, 
son,  who  returned  on 


.MMMM«n»« 


ARRIVAL    AT    KATUNOA. 


507 


the  31st,  with  the  news  that  Dr.  Morrison  had  died  at  Jannah,  on  the 
same  day  as  Captain  Pearcc.  Tims  in  the  short  space  of  three  weeks, 
three  persons,  or  one  half  the  party,  had  perished ;  yet  the  survivors 
manfully  pushed  on,  although  Clapperton  waa  so  ill  that  ho  was  obliged 
to  be  carried  in  a  hammock. 

The  country  became  more  hilly  and  picturesque  as  they  advanced. 
On  the  i;uh  of  January,  1826,  they  entered  a  narrow  defile,  leading 
through  a  range  of  granite  mountains.  "  The  road  through  this  mount- 
ain pass,"  says  Clapperton,  "  was  grand  and  imposing,  sometimes  rising 
almost  perpendicularly,  and  then  descending  into  deep  dells.  In  every 
cleft  of  the  hills,  wherever  there  appeared  the  least  soil,  were  cottages, 
surrounded  by  small  plantations  of  millet,  yams,  or  plantains,  giving  a 
beautiful  variety  to  the  rude  scenery.  The  road  continued  rising,  hill 
above  hill,  for  at  least  two  miles,  until  our  arrival  at  the  large  and  populous 
town  of  Chaki,  situated  on  the  top  of  the  verj-  highest  hill.  On  every 
hand,  on  the  hills,  on  the  rocks,  and  crowding  on  the  road,  the  inhabit- 
ants were  assembled  in  thousands ;  t  e  women  welcoming  us  with  hold- 
ing up  their  hands  and  chanting  choral  songs,  and  the  men  with  the 
usual  salutations  and  every  demonstration  of  joy." 

Here  they  were  kindly  received  by  a  caboceer  with  two  thousand 
■wives,  and  continued  their  journey  next  day.  The  country  beyond  this 
was  populous  and  well  cultivated ;  and  they  were  everywhere  hospita- 
bly treated.  On  the  2 2d  they  reached  the  large  town  of  Tshow,  where 
a  messenger  from  the  King  of  Yoriba  was  in  waiting,  to  conduct  them 
to  Katunga.  The  caboceer  visited  them,  and  after  having  shaken  hands 
with  them,  rubbed  his  face  and  body,  in  order  that  he  might  impait  the 
blessing  of  a  white  man's  touch  to  all  parts  of  his  frame.  The  next  day, 
at  noon,  from  the  top  of  a  high  ridge,  they  saw  the  city  of  Katunga,  or 
Eyeo.  "  Before  us  lay  a  finely-cultivated  valley,  extending  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach  to  the  westward ;  the  city  lying,  as  it  were,  below  us, 
surrounded  and  studded  with  green  shady  trees,  forming  a  belt  around 
the  base  of  a  rocky  mountain,  composed  of  granite,  of  about  three  miles 
in  length,  forming  as  beautiful  a  view  as  I  ever  saw." 

On  entering  the  city,  a  messenger  met  the  travelers,  stating  that  the 
king  wanted  to  see  them.  Clapperton  gives  the  following  description 
of  their  reception  :  "  A  band  of  music  accompanied  us  and  the  escort, 
with  an  immense  multitude  of  men,  women,  and  children.  As  there 
was  much  open  and  cultivated  ground,  the  dust  they  caused  almost  suf- 
focated us,  though  tho  escort  tried  all  gentle  means  to  keep  them  off. 
At  last,  after  riding  full  five  miles,  we  came  to  the  place  where  the  king 
was  sitting  under  the  verandah  of  his  house,  marked  by  two  red  and 
blue  cloth  umbrellas,  supported  by  largo  poles  held  by  slaves,  with  tho 
staft*  resting  upon  the  ground.  After  we  got  as  far  as  the  umbrellas  in 
front,  the  space  was  all  clear  before  tho  king,  and  for  about  twenty  yards 
on  each  side.  Wo  walked  up  to  the  verandah  with  our  hats  on,  until 
we  came  into  the  siiade,  when  wo  took  off  our  hats,  made  a  bow,  and 


608   OLAPPERTON'S  SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  SACZATOO. 


shook  Lands :  he  lifting  up  our  hands  three  times,  repeating,  ^Ako^  ctkof* 
(how  do  you  do  ?)  the  women  behind  him  standing  up  and  cheering  us, 
calling  out,  '  Oh,  oh,  oh !'  (hurrah !)  and  the  men  on  the  outside  joining. 
It  was  impossible  to  count  the  number  of  his  ladies,  they  were  so  densely 
packed  and  so  very  numerous.  If  I  might  judge  by  their  smiles,  they 
seemed  as  glad  to  see  us  as  their  master.  The  king  was  dressed  in  a 
large  white  shirt,  with  a  blue  one  under ;  around  his  neck  some  three 
strings  of  large  blue  cut-glass  beads,  and  on  his  head  the  imitation  of  a 
European  crown  of  blue  cotton  covered  over  pasteboard,  made  appar- 
ently by  some  European,  and  sent  up  to  him  from  the  coast." 

The  city  of  Eyeo  (Eatunga,  in  the  language  of  Houssa),  is  situated 
in  latitude  eight  degrees  fifty-nine  minutes  north,  longitude  six  degrees 
twelve  minutes  east.  It  is  built  on  the  sloping  side  and  around  the  base 
of  a  small  range  of  granite  hills,  which,  as  it  were,  form  the  citadel  of 
the  town :  they  are  composed  of  stupendous  blocks  of  gray  granite  of 
the  softest  kind,  some  of  which  are  seen  hanging  from  the  summits,  in 
the  most  frightful  manner,  as  if  the  least  touch  would  send  them  do\i'n 
into  the  valley  beneath.  A  belt  of  thick  wood  runs  around  the  walls, 
which  are  built  of  clay,  about  twenty  feet  high,  and  surrounded  by  a 
dry  ditch.  There  are  ten  gates  in  the  walls,  which  are  fifteen  miles 
in  circumference,  of  an  oval  shape,  about  four  miles  in  diameter  one  way 
and  six  miles  the  other,  the  south  end  leaning  against  the  rocky  hills, 
and  forming  an  inaccessible  barrier  in  that  quarter.  The  king's  houses 
and  those  of  his  women  occupy  about  a  square  mile,  and  are  on  the  south 
side  of  the  hills,  having  two  large  parks,  one  in  front  and  another  facing 
the  north. 

Clapperton  was  detained  at  Katunga  durmg  the  whole  month  of 
February,  the  king  refusing  to  allow  him  to  proceed,  under  one  pretext 
or  another.  He  kept  him  well  supplied  with  provisions,  but  as  the 
traveler  was  obliged  to  make  frequent  presents  to  him,  his  sons,  and  the 
caboceers  or  head  men  of  the  city,  these  gifts  were  well  paid  for.  Cap- 
tain Clapperton  applied  for  permission  to  visit  Rakka,  on  the  Niger,  and 
to  pass  onward  to  the  kingdom  of  Nyfife,  lying  cast  of  Yoriba,  which 
was  refused,  on  the  ground  that  the  road  was  not  safe.  Finally,  after 
fixing  a  day  for  Clapperton''s  departure  five  or  six  times,  and  as  often 
postponing  it,  he  sent  word  to  him,  on  the  6th  of  March,  that  a  messen- 
ger was  about  to  start  for  the  city  of  Kiama,  and  would  accompany  and 
give  him  in  charge  to  the  Sultan  Yarro,  who  would  forward  him  to  the 
kingdom  of  Yaouri.  Clapperton,  therefore,  immediately  arranged  his 
baggage  and  started,  leaving  Mr.  Houtson,  who  intended  returning  to 
Badagry.* 

On  the  way  to  Eiama  Lander  became  so  ill  that  he  could  not  travel 

without  being  held  on  the  horse.    Thay  reached  that  city  on  the  13th, 

and  rode  immediately  to  the  house  of  Sultan  Yarro,  whom  they  found 

sitting  at  the  door  of  his  house.    He  was  a  stout,  good-looking  man,  past 

*  Mr.  Houtson  reached  Badagiy  in  safetj,  but  died  soon  afterward. 


SAOKATOO.  I 

ip  and  cheering  us,     i 
;he  outside  joining,     j 
ley  were  so  densely     j 
J  their  smiles,  they     1 
ig  was  dressed  in  a     | 
[lis  neck  some  three     i 
a  the  imitation  of  a     | 
jboard,  made  appar-     j 
le  coast."  I 

HouBsa),  is  situated 
wgitudc  six  degrees     | 
and  around  the  base 
.,  form  the  citadel  of 
■A  of  gray  granite  of 
from  the  summits,  in 
)uld  send  them  down 
ins  around  the  walls, 
and  surrounded  by  a 
dich  are  fifteen  miles 
J  in  diameter  one  way 
tainst  the  rocky  hUls, 
,r.    The  king's  houses 
,  and  are  on  the  south 
mt  and  another  facing 

the  whole  month  of  j 
;ed,  under  one  pretext  i 
provisions,  hut  as  the 

him,  his  sons,  and  the  , 
ro  weU  paid  for.    Cap-     ! 

cka,  on  the  Niger,  and 
past  of  Yoriba,  which 
lot  safe.  Finally,  after 
[six  times,  and  as  often 

March,  that  amessen- 

would  accompany  and 

luld  forward  him  to  the 

lediately  arranged  his 
uitended  returning  to 

[hat  he  could  not  travel 
1  that  city  on  the  13th, 
Parro,  whom  they  found 
]  good-looking  man,  past 

Id  sooQ  afterward. 


JOURNEY   TO    BOUSSA. 


509 


the  middle  age,  dressed  in  a  white  tobe  or  large  shirt,  with  a  red  Moor- 
ish cap  on  his  head.  He  received  Clapperton  kindly,  and  gave  him  a 
very  comfortable  house.  After  the  heat  of  the  day  was  over  Yarro  came 
to  visit  him,  mounted  on  a  beautiful  red  roan,  attended  by  a  number  of 
armed  men  on  horseback  and  on  foot,  and  six  young  female  slaves,  car- 
rying spears.  He  promised  to  send  the  travelers  to  Wawa,  whence  they 
would  bo  forwarded  to  Boussa  on  the  Niger.  The  town  of  Kinraa,  ac- 
cording to  Clapperton's  estimate,  contains  thirty  thousand  inhabitants, 
who  are  looked  upon  as  the  greatest  thieves  and  robbers  in  Africa.  The 
traveler,  however,  was  fortunate  ;  he  escaped  being  plundered,  and  after 
a  stay  of  five  days,  was  allowed  to  proceed,  in  company  with  a  caravan 
bound  for  Kano,  in  Houssa. 

His  road  now  led  through  a  thickly  wooded  country,  broken  by  pic- 
turesque rocky  ranges.  In  passing  through  one  of  the  villages,  a  Borgoo 
hunter  came  in  from  the  chase.  "  He  had  a  leopard's  skin  over  his 
shoulder,  a  light  spear  in  his  hand,  and  his  bow  and  arrows  slung  at  his 
back.  He  was  followed  by  three  cveam-colorod  dogs,  a  breed  as  if  be- 
tween the  grayhound  and  the  cur ;  they  were  adorned  with  round  col- 
lars of  different  colored  leather.  The  hunter  and  his  dogs  marched 
through  the  village  as  independently  as  I  ever  saw  a  man,  without  tak- 


AraiOAN  rOREST. 


ing  the  least  notice  of  us,  or  even  looking  at  us."  The  road  continued 
through  tropical  woods  of  the  most  luxuriant  foliage.  They  were  shaded 
fi-om  the  heat  of  the  sun,  which  was  intense  at  noonday,  and  were 
cheered  by  their  approach  to  the  Niger,  the  proximity  of  which  was 
announced  by  its  numerous  tributaries. 


510    clappp:rton's  second  journey  to  sackatoo. 


On  tho  21st,  Clappcrton  reached  the  large  town  of  Wawa,  where  ho 
was  intliffcrently  received  by  the  governor,  Avho  wrapped  up  liis  hand  in 
his  sleeve,  for  fear  the  touch  of  a  white  man  would  kill  him.  Soon  after 
his  arrival  lie  was  visited  by  an  Arab  M'idow  named  Zuma,  who  desired 
to  have  a  white  husband.  She  was  said  to  be  tho  richest  person  in  the 
town,  having  tho  best  house  and  a  thousand  slaves.  "  She  showed  a 
great  regard  for  my  servant  Richard,  who  is  younger  and  better  looking 
than  I  am,"  says  Captain  Clapperton ;  "  but  she  had  passed  her  twentieth 
year,  was  fat,  and  a  perfect  Turkish  beauty,  just  like  a  walking  water- 
butt.  All  her  arts  were  unavailing  on  Richard  ;  she  could  not  induce 
hitn  to  visit  her  at  her  house,  though  ho  had  my  permission."  In  spite 
of  these  rebutfs,  the  widow  furnished  the  traveler  with  abundance  of 
cooked  provisions  every  day.  She  offered  Clapperton's  servant  Pascoo 
a  ^vife  if  he  could  persuade  his  master  to  marry  her.  Clapperton  visited 
her  one  day,  and  received  an  estimate  of  all  her  wealth ;  she  exhibited 
to  him  her  gold  bracelets,  her  coral  beads,  silver  rings  and  other  trinkets, 
and  her  apartments,  splendidly  adorned  with  pewter  dishes  and  brass 
pans.  She  then  proposed  to  send  for  a  priest  and  have  the  marriage 
ceremony  performed — whereupon  the  captain  speedily  retreated. 

After  spending  nine  days  at  Wawa,  a  messenger  of  the  Sultan  of 
Boussa  arrived,  to  conduct  the  travelers  through  his  dominions.  The 
governor  of  Wawa  promised  to  send  all  the  baggage  to  the  town  of 
Koolfu,  beyond  the  Niger,  on  the  direct  road  to  Kano,  and  Clapperton 
therefore,  leaving  Lander  to  take  charge  of  it,  rode  on  to  Boussa.  The 
same  afternoon  he  reached  a  branch  of  the  Niger,  called  the  Menai.  It 
was  not  more  than  twenty  yards  across,  but  twelve  feet  deep.  After 
being  ferried  over,  an  hour's  ride  brought  him  to  the  town  of  Boussa. 
lie  was  much  surprised,  after  entering  the  gate,  to  see  only  clusters  of 
huts  here  and  there,  and  no  regular  town,  as  he  had  been  led  to  expect. 
He  proceeded  at  once  to  visit  the  sultan,  whom  he  found  sitting  1,1.  ir 
the  verandah  of  one  of  his  huts,  with  his  principal  wife  beside  him.  The 
sultan  received  him  very  kindly,  and  said  that  the  Sultan  of  Yaouri  had 
kept  seven  boats  waiting  several  days,  to  take  him  up  the  river.  Clap- 
perton informed  him  that  on  account  of  the  war  between  Yaouri  and 
Boussa,  he  intended  taking  the  route  of  Koolfu  and  Nyiio,  on  his  way 
to  Bornou.  The  sultan  was  a  handsome  man  of  about  twenty-five  years 
of  age,  five  feet  ten  inches  in  height,  with  a  lofty  forehead,  Roman  nose, 
good  teeth,  and  a  short  chin  covered  with  a  beard  two  inches  long. 

Clapperton's  presents  the  next  day  procured  him  a  still  more  favora- 
ble reception,  and  he  was  informed  that  he  would  be  allowed  to  coji- 
tinue  his  journey  on  the  morrow.  "  I  next  inquired  of  him,"  says  the 
traveler,  "  after  some  white  men  who  were  lost  in  the  river  near  Boussa 
twenty  years  ago.  He  seemed  rather  uneasy  at  this  question,  and  I 
observed  that  he  stammered  in  his  speech.  He  assured  me  that  he  had 
nothing  belonging  to  them ;  that  he  was  a  little  boy  when  the  event 
happened.     I  said,  I  wanted  nothing  but  the  books  and  papers,  and  to 


"~l 


0    SACKATOO. 

of  Wawa,  where  ho 
ippcd  up  his  hanil  in 
iill  hira.  Soon  after 
.  Zuma,  who  desired 
•ichest  person  in  the 
'cs.  "  She  showed  a 
■r  and  better  looking 
passed  her  twentieth 
like  a  walking  water-  i 
ihc  could  not  induce 
jrmission."     In  spite     I 

with  abundance  of      | 
ton's  servant  Pascoo     j 
,     Clapperton  visited 
realth ;  she  exhibited 
gs  and  other  trinkets, 
tor  dishes  and  brass 
d  have  the  marriage 
liily  retreated, 
ger  of  the  Sultan  of 

his  dominions.  The 
rgage  to  the  town  of 
Kano,  and  Clapperton 
ie  on  to  Boussa.    The 

called  the  Menai.    It 
}lve  feet  deep.    After 
>  the  town  of  ]5oussa. 
to  see  only  clusters  of 
ad  been  led  to  expect, 
le  found  sitting    .I'l  r 
wife  beside  hira.    The 
)  Sultan  of  Yaouri  had 
m  up  the  river.    Clap- 
r  betwetsii  Yaotiri  and 
md  Nyffe,  on  his  way 
ibout  twenty-five  years 
forehead,  Roman  nose, 
1  two  inches  long, 
dim  a  still  more  favora- 
ild  be  allowed  to  con- 
uired  of  him,"  says  the 
i  the  river  near  Boussa 
it  this  question,  and  I 
assured  me  that  he  had 
e  boy  when  the  event 
oks  and  papers,  and  to 


THE    PLACE    OP   PARK'S    DEATH.  ^jj 

learn  from  him  a  correct  account  of  the  manner  of  their  d,.ath  ;  and  that 
with  Ins  pernussion,  I  would  go  and  visit  the  spot  where  they  were  lost' 
He  saul  no,  I  must  not  go;  it  was  a  verj-  bad  place.  Ilavincr  heard 
that  part  ot  the  boat  still  remained,  I  asked  him  if  it  was  «o  'ire  re 
plied  that  such  a  report  was  untrue;  that  she  did  remain  on  the  rock, 
or  some  time  after,  but  had  gone  to  pieces  and  floated  down  the  river 
?,"5  ^S^;  Z;^"'  'f^^  ^'""l^l  give  me  the  books  and  papers,  it  would  bo 
the  greatest  favor  he  could  possibly  confer  upon  me.  Ho  again  assun-d 
Zn^t  "°*'""S/f™7^^1  7th  him ;  every  thing  of  that  kind  had  gone 

i?o  In  1 1  i'  ''"'"f  '"'" '  ^'"*  *^'^*  •^'•'"y  ^^«'-«  "«^v  in  existence 

he  would  procure  them  and  give  them  to  me.     I  then  asked  him  if  l,e 

w-ould  aUow  mo  to  inquire  of  the  old  peoj.lo  in  the  toM-n  the  particulars 
ot  the  affair,  as  some  of  them  must  have  seen  it.  He  appeared  very  un- 
easy, gave  mo  no  answer,  and  I  did  not  press  him  further  " 

Clapperton  was  afterward  informed  by  the  sultan  that  the  late  imam 
or  priest,  wlio  was  a  Fehitah,  had  had  possession  of  all  of  Park's  books 
■and  papers,  but  that  he  had  fled  from  Boussa  some  time  ],ef;>re     Tho 
inhabitants  appeared  uneasy  and  embarrassed  whenever  he  asked  for  in- 
formation but  they  pointed  out  the  place  where  tlio  boat  struck  and 
he  imfortunate  travelers  perished.     "Even  this,"  Clapperton  remarks 
was  done  with  caution,  and  as  if  by  stealth ;  though,  in  every  thing  un! 
connected  with  that  afiair,  they  were  most  ready  to  give  me  what  in- 
formation I  asked,  and  never  in  my  Ufe  have  I  been  treated  with  more 
hospitahty  and  kindness.    The  place  pointed  out  to  me  is  in  the  eastern 
eha,.nel,  the  nver  being  divided  into  three  branches  at  this  place,  not 
one  of  which  is  more  than  a  good  pistol-shot  across.    A  low,  flat  island 
ot  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  breadth,  lies  between  the  town  of  Boussa 
ana  the  fiUal  spot.    The  bank  is  not  particularly  high  at  present,  bTng     I 
only  about  ten  feet  above  the  level  of  this  branch,  which  here  break!     '• 
over  a  gray  slate-rock,  extending  quite  across  to  the  eastern  shore  "  ' 

Clapperton  left  Houssa  on  the  2d  of  April,  and  proceeded  down  the     i 
nver  t .  >  days'  journey  to  Comie,  or  the  king's  ferry,  where  the  caravans     , 
to  and  from  Houssa  cross  the  Niger.    His  baggage,  much  to  his  sur-     ' 
prise,  had  not  amved  from  Wawa,  and  he  found,  on  inquiry,  that  it  had     I 
been  detamed  by  the  orders  of  the  persevering  widow  Zuma.     He  im      ' 
mediately  returned  to  Wawa,  and  Lander  arrived  there  at  the  same 
moment  from  Boussa,  whither  he  had  gone  to  seek  his  master  and  ac- 
quaint him  with  the  detention  of  his  property.     The  sultan  had  treated 
Lander  with  great  kindness,  and  sent  two  armed  men  back  with  him  to 
desire  the  governor  of  Wawa  to  allow  the  baggage  to  leave—"  a  con- 
vmcing  proof,"  says  Clapperton,  "that  the  minds  of  men  here  must  bt> 
much  changed  for  the  better  since  the  days  of  Park  and  Martyn."    But 
they  were  not  yet  done  with  the  widow.    The  governor  would  not  give 
up  the  baggage  until  she  arrived,  as  she  was  then  absent.     She  made 
her  entry  m  state  the  next  day,  astride  of  a  fine  horse,  with  a  drummer 
before  her,  and  a  train  of  bowmen  and  spearmen  behind.     She  wore  red 


[it  amM 


512      CLAPPBRTON-S   SECOND   JOURNKT   TO   SACKATOO. 

silk  trowsors  and  red  morocco  boots,  with  a  white  turban  upon  her 
hll  and  over  her  Bhoulders  a  mantlo  of  silk  and  gold  "Had  shebeen 
Bomewhat  younger  and  less  corpulent,"  says  her  v^tim  "there  m.ght 
have  been  grea?  temptations  to  head  her  party,  for  she  has  certainly 
bein  a  ver?  handsome  woman."  She  was  immediately  B«-™«-d  be- 
fore  the  governor,  who  gave  her  a  lecture  on  disobedience  and  vani  y^ 
and  finalfy  ended  by  giv^g  up  Clapperton's  baggage,  and  allowmg  hmi 

"Xtrg'th'e  Niger,  Clapperton    proceeded    toward    Kano 
through  the  comitry  of  Nyffe,  and  on  the  12th  arrived  at  a  town  called 
Sbf  on  the  river  Mayarrow,  where  ho  was  obliged  to  remain  several 
I:^  '  While  here,  a  messenger  came  to  him  from  the  Sf- o^f^"; 
Sncr  a  present  of  a  camel.     Ho  stated  that  the  sultan  had  m  his 
uoTsfsfon  two  large  printed  books  which  had  belonged  to  the  wluto 
rrX  were  J  in'ihe  boat  at  Boussa,  and  had  been  offered  a  hun^ 
dred  and  seventy-five  pieces  of  gold  for  them.    Clapperton  was  obliged 
to  make  a  journey  of  ?wo  or  three  days,  to  the  camp  of  the  kmg  of 
Nyffe  in  order  to  obtain  permission  to  proceed  farther     He  reached 
Koolfu  the  capital  of  the  country,  on  the  2d  of  May.    This  is  a  place 
fftwel'vc  or  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  river  Mayarrow. 
?t  s  strounded  by  a  clay  wall  about  twenty  foot  high,  with  four  gates. 
He  here  h"rd  theW  of  Park's  death  related  in  the  same  manner  a, 
at  Boussa,  and  there  seems  no  reason  to  doubt  its  correctness     The  only 
uncertain  point  is,  whether  the  travelers  were  shot  ^7  tl^«  "f  "«%,^^ 
were  d  owned  in  attempting  to  escape.    Soon  after  their  death  the 
loimtry  was  visited  by  i  pestilence,  which  the  superstition  of  the  na- 
11^8  attiibuted  to  that  occurrence,  and  they  aU  seemed  dismclined  to 
converge  o„re  ^ject.    Clapperton  remarks :  "  I  was  often  puzzled  to 
think   after  the  kiidness  I  had  received  at  Boussa,  what  could  have 
caused  Ich  a  change  in  the  minds  of  these  people,  in  the  course  of 
wenty  years%ni  of  their  different  treatment  of  two  European  trave  ers. 
I  wL  even  disposed  at  times  to  flatter  myself  that  there  was  some  lung 
LTe  that  belonged  to  nobody  else,  to  make  them  treat  me  and  my 

dcodIc  with  so  much  kindness."  ,    ,     v 

^     After  having  been  detained  six  weeks  at  Koolfu,  partly  by  his  own 
and  Lander's  sifkness,  and  partly  by  the  diMtyofpr^cunng  an  escort 
to  Kano,  Clapperton  set  out  for  the  latter  place  on  the  19th  of  June 
His  progress  was  slow  and  toilsome,  the  rainy  season  havmg  set  in     He 
reached  the  city  of  Zaria  on  the  loth  of  July.    This  is  a  place  of  more 
than  fifty  thousand  inhabitants,  situated  on  a  plain  near  a  long  chain 
of  hills.    Its  apFarance  is  made  very  picturesque  by  the  long  avenues 
of  trees,  resembling  poplars,  which  border  the  roads  leading  to  it     This 
wa«  within  the  territory  of  Houssa,  and  Clapperton  now  congratulated 
himself  that  all  his  difficulties  were  over.    The  country  around  Zaiia 
reminded  him  of  England  in  April,  and  grew  more  pleasant  as  he  ap- 
proached Kano.    "  The  land,  everywhere  the  eye  turned,  looked  beau- 


t    .1.1.  i.i.iifc  I      Mm 


0   8ACKAT00. 

to  turban  upon  her 
Id.  "Had  she  been 
ctim,  "  there  might 
or  she  has  certainly 
ately  summoned  be- 
bedionce  and  vanity, 
re,  and  allowing  him 

eded    toward    Kano 
ivcd  at  a  town  called 
ed  to  remain  several 
the  Sultan  of  Yaouri, 
tho  sultan  had  in  his 
elonged  to  the  wliite 
been  offered  a  hun- 
lapperton  was  obliged 
camp  of  the  king  of 
further.    Ho  reached 
Muy.    This  is  a  place 
[)n  the  river  Mayarrow. 
high,  with  four  gates. 
n  tho  same  manner  as 
correctness.    The  only 
shot  by  the  natives,  or 
after  their  death  tho 
superstition  of  the  na- 
scemed  disinclined  to 
'  I  was  often  puzzled  to 
jussa,  what  could  have 
cople,  in  the  course  of 
two  European  travelers, 
at  there  was  sometliing 
lem  treat  mo  and  my 

,olfu,  partly  by  his  own 
y  of  procuring  an  escort 
0  on  tho  19th  of  June, 
jason  having  set  in.    Ho 
This  is  a  place  of  more 
plain  near  a  long  chain 
lue  by  the  long  avenues 
oadsleadingtoit.    This 
jrton  now  congratulated 
le  country  around  Zavia 
more  pleasant  as  he  ap- 
eye  turned,  looked  beau- 


t ' 


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ARRIVAL    AT    UKLLO'S    CAMP. 


513 


tiful ;  tho  grain  Vfoa  jii»t  Iiigh  unoti^li  to  wuvo  with  the  wind  ;  littJM 
towns  and  villnj»c8  were  nunierou.4  ;  ti.i;  tnu's  full  of  foliage,  few  being 
lotl  except  such  as  wero  fit  for  use,  oh  tho  butter-trco  and  tho  tanmr 
ind  ;  herds  of  tine  uattlo  wero  seen  grazing  on  tho  fallow-ground  ;  and 
horses  an<l  nmres  wero  tethored  in  thu  Hinall  Hpuces  letl  between  tho 
cultivated  fields." 

On  tho  evening  of  July  20th,  they  entered  Kano,  and  went  to  tho 
house  of  his  former  agent,  Hat  Salah.  Tho  latter  was  in  low  Hi>irits  on 
aecount  of  the  war  betwvcn  Iloussa  and  Bomou,  which  had  shut  thcni 
out,  for  Home  time,  from  all  communication  with  Fczzan  or  Tripoli. 
Clapiterton  only  remained  four  days  in  Kano,  and  then  left  for  tho  camp 
of  Sultan  liello,  with  tho  ])rcscnts  lie  had  brought,  leaving  Lander  bo- 
hind  him,  to  take  charge  of  those  intended  for  the  Shekh  of  IJornou. 
It  was  now  the  Iieight  of  tho  rainy  season ;  severe  storms  occurred 
nearly  every  day  ;  the  rivers  wero  swollen  ;  tho  marshes  almost  impass- 
able, and  he  made  but  slow  progress.  On  tlio  way  to  tho  camp  ho  met 
the  vizier,  whom  he  had  already  known  in  Sackatoo,  and  Avho  received 
him  in  a  very  friendly  manner.  Soon  after  this  ono  of  his  horses  waa 
lost,  and  with  it  one  of  his  journals,  so  that  there  is  a  hiatus  of  moro 
than  two  months  in  his  narrative — an  omission  wLich  docs  not  appear 
to  have  been  replaced  afterward. 

Wo  are,  therefore,  ignorant  of  tho  causes  which  delayed  him  on  his 
way  to  Bollo's  camp,  which  ho  did  not  reach  until  tho  15th  of  October. 
"  Tho  sultan's  reception  of  me,"  he  says,  "  was  most  kind  and  gratifying. 
He  asked  after  the  health  of  the  King  of  England,  and  if  wo  wero  still 
at  peace,  and  how  I  had  found  all  my  friends.  Ho  was  surprised  when 
I  said  I  had  not  seen  them,  and  that  I  had  remained  only  four  months 
in  England.  Ho  said  he  had  not  received  cither  of  my  letters,  the  one 
from  Bornou,  or  that  wliich  had  been  sent  by  way  of  Ghadames  from 
Tripoli.  He  asked  me  if  I  had  not  experienced  a  great  many  difficulties 
in  getting  through  Yoriba ;  said  ho  had  heard  of  me  when  I  was  at 
Katunga,  and  had  sent  a  messenger  to  that  place  to  assist  me  in  get- 
ting tlirough,  as  well  as  another  to  Koolfu — but  neither  of  whom,  as  I 
told  him,  had  I  seen." 

Clapperton  accompanied  the  sultan  in  an  attack  upon  the  town  of 
Coonie,  in  which  the  Felatah  troops  were  repulsed,  and  then  directed 
his  course  toward  Sackatoo,  where  he  arrived  on  the  20th  of  October, 
He  was  immediately  visited  by  the  Arabs  of  the  place,  who  first  paid 
him  a  great  many  compliments,  and  then  begged  for  presents.  He  re- 
mained in  Sackatoo  for  several  months,  during  which  time  he  made  sev- 
eral excursions  into  the  country  around,  mostly  at  the  command  of  the 
sultan,  who  frequently  had  communications  to  make  to  him.  He  was 
very  desirous  of  proceeding  to  Bornou,  but  as  the  two  countries  were  at 
war,  Bello  refused  his  permission.  He  promised,  however,  to  send  him 
to  Europe,  through  the  country  of  the  Tuaricks,  to  Fezzan. 

On  the  22d  of  December,  he  was  surprised  by  the  arrival  of  Richard 

33 


614      CLAPPBRTON'S   SECOND   JOUBNEY    TO    SACKATOO. 

Lander  from  Kano,  with  tho  remainder  of  the  baggage,  including  the 
presents  for  the  Shekh  of  Bornou.  Lander  had  been  brought  to  Sacka- 
too  by  tho  order  of  the  sultan,  who  used  the  fact  of  the  war  with  Bornou 
as  a  pretext  to  seixe  upon  the  presents  intended  for  the  shekh.  Lander 
had  suifered  a  great  deal  of  fatigue  and  anxiety  on  account  of  the  knavery 
of  the  ser/ant  Pascoe,  who  had  three  times  deserted,  after  breaking  open 
some  of  Captain  Clapperton's  trunks,  and  stealing  the  contents.  On  the 
first  and  second  of  these  occasions,  Lauder  had  himself  followed  him  for 
several  days,  and  overtaken  him.  Clapperton  was  now  informed  by  the 
sultan  that  if  ho  wished  to  go  home,  he  must  go  by  way  of  Fezzan  or 
Timbuctoo,  but  should  not  bo  allowed  to  visit  Bornou.  Ho  also  de- 
manded the  letter  to  the  shekh  of  the  latter  country,  which  Clapperton 
refused  to  give  up.  This  treachery  on  the  part  of  the  Sultan  Bello  ap- 
pears to  have  depressed  Clapperton  profoundly,  and  when  the  former 
again  sent  to  him,  demanding  his  stores  of  powder  and  ammunition,  un- 
der the  pretext  that  they  were  intended  for  the  Shekh  of  Bornou,  his 
customaiy  prudence  entirely  deserted  him.  He  reproached  tho  vizier 
and  his  brother  with  the  baseness  and  falsehood  of  this  proceeding ;  harsh 
epithets  were  used  on  both  sides,  and  a  breach  was  made  between  the 
traveler  and  the  rulers  of  Houssa,  which  was  never  afterward  healed. 

Toward  the  close  of  February,  1827,  news  came  to  Sackatoo  of  the 
defeat  of  the  Shekh  of  Bornou,  and  his  retreat  to  Kouka,  with  the  loss 
of  all  his  baggage,  camels,  and  two  hundred  and  nme  horses.  During 
the  winter,  Captain  Clapperton's  journal  records  little  except  some  excur- 
sions around  Sackatoo,  and  the  difficulty  he  had  in  procuring  the  skins 
and  skeletons  of  some  wild  hogs.  He  docs  not  appear  to  have  made  any 
preparations  for  his  return  to  Europe.  His  journal  terminates  abruptly 
on  the  11th  of  March,  after  which  we  must  have  recourse  to  the  narra- 
tive of  Richard  Lander,  for  the  particulars  of  his  last  illness  and  drath. 

Lander  relates  that  hia  master  was  taken  ill  on  the  12th  of  March, 
with  dysentery.  As  it  was  the  fast  of  Ramadan,  none  of  the  servants 
would  render  the  least  assistance,  and  he  was  obliged  to  wash,  cook, 
watch  at  night,  and  fan  the  invalid.  The  weather  was  insufferably  hot, 
the  thermometer  being  107°  in  the  shade.  Lander  carried  him  in  his  arms 
every  day  to  a  shady  place  on  the  outside  of  the  hut,  as  ho  was  too  weak 
even  to  raise  himself  on  his  couch.  The  former  &ncied  that  he  had  been 
poisoned  by  some  of  the  Arabs  or  Tuaricks,  in  drinking  camel's  milk ; 
but  Clapperton  replied,  "  No,  my  dear  boy,  no  such  thing  has  been  done, 
I  assure  you.  Do  you  remember  that  when  on  a  shooting  excursion  in 
the  early  part  of  February,  after  walking  the  whole  of  the  day,  exposed 
to  '"he  scorching  rays  of  the  sun,  I  was  fatigued,  and  lay  down  under  the 
bi  anches  of  a  tree  for  some  time  ?  The  earth  was  soft  and  wet,  and  from 
that  hour  to  the  present,  I  have  not  been  free  from  cold ;  this  has  brought 
on  my  present  disorder,  from  which,  I  believe,  I  shall  never  recover." 

"  For  twenty  days,"  says  Lander,  "  my  poor  master  remained  in  a 
low  and  distressed  state.    He  told  me  he  felt  no  pain ;  but  this  was 


*A 


,^^>.^,..»^,,■>.»rf■.la^►;iy^^w,-l^F^^;g^^!a.ala^..v/.  ^'■»--^'^»::.taiSR?^ 


TO    SACKATOO. 

aggagc,  including  the 
een  brought  to  Sacka- 
»f  the  war  with  Bornou 
)r  the  Bhekh.  Lander 
account  of  the  knavery 
sd,  after  breaking  open 
;  the  contents.  On  the 
irasclf  followed  him  for 
i8  now  informed  by  the 
o  by  way  of  Fezzan  or 
Bornou.  He  also  de- 
intry,  which  Clapperton 
of  the  Sultan  Bello  ap- 
y,  and  when  the  former 
ler  and  ammunition,  un- 
ie  Shekh  of  Bornou,  his 
e  reproached  the  viader 
)f  this  proceeding ;  harsh 
was  made  between  the 
ver  afterward  healed. 
came  to  Sackatoo  of  the 
b  to  Kouka,  with  the  loss 
ad  nine  horses.  During 
J  little  except  some  excur- 
id  in  procuring  the  skins 
appear  to  have  made  any 
imal  termmates  abruptly 
,ve  recourse  to  the  narra- 
is  last  illness  and  df  ath. 
ill  on  the  12th  of  March, 
ian,  none  of  the  servants 
3  obUged  to  wash,  cook, 
ther  was  insufferably  hot, 
der  carried  him  in  his  arms 
le  hut,  as  he  was  too  weak 

r  fancied  that  he  had  been 
in  drinking  camel's  milk ; 
,  such  thing  has  been  done, 
on  a  shooting  excursion  in 
whole  of  the  day,  exposed 
d,  and  lay  down  under  the 
was  soft  and  wet,  and  from 
rom  cold ;  this  has  brought 
3, 1  shall  never  recover." 
oor  master  remained  m  a 
felt  no  pain;  but  this  was 


HIS    LAST    ILLNESS. 


515 


spoken  only  to  comfort  mc,  for  lio  s.aw  I  wast  dispirited.  His  sufferings 
must  have  been  acute.  During  thi'  tinio  he  was  gradually,  but  percept- 
ibly, declining ;  his  body,  from  being  r()bust  and  vigorous,  became 
weak  and  emaciated,  and  indeed  was  little  better  than  a  skeleton.  I 
wOvS  the  only  person,  with  one  exception,  he  saw  in  his  sickness.  Ab- 
derachman,  an  Arab  from  Fezzan,  came  to  him  one  day,  and  wished  to 
pray  with  him,  after  the  manner  of  his  countrymen,  but  was  desired  to 
leave  the  apartment  instantly.  I  read  to  him  daily  some  portions  of  the 
New  Testament,  and  the  ninety-fifth  Psalm,  which  lie  was  never  weary 
of  listening  to,  and  on  Sundays  added  the  church  service,  to  which  he 
invariably  paid  the  profoundest  attention.  The  constant  agitation  of 
mind  and  exertions  of  body  I  had  myself  undergone  for  so  long  a  time, 
never  having  in  a  single  instance  slept  out  of  my  clothes,  weakened  me 
exceedingly,  and  a  fever  came  on  not  long  before  my  master's  death, 
which  hung  upon  me  for  fifteen  days,  and  ultimately  brought  me  to  the 
very  verge  of  the  grave. 

"  On  the  Ist  of  April,  ho  became  considerably  worse,  and  though 
evidently  in  want  of  repose,  his  sleep  became  more  and  more  disturbed. 
On  the  9th,  Maddie,  a  native  of  Bornou,  whom  master  had  retained  in 
liis  service,  brought  him  about  twelve  ounces  of  green  bark  from  the 
butter-tree,  and  said  it  would  do  him  much  good.  Notwithstanding  all 
my  remonstrances,  master  immediately  ordered  a  decoction  of  it  to  be 
l)repared,  observing,  '  No  man  will  injure  mc.'  Accordingly  Maddie 
himself  boiled  two  basins-full,  the  whole  of  which  he  drank  in  less  than 
an  hour.  Next  morning  he  was  much  altered  for  the  worse,  and  regret- 
ted his  not  having  followed  my  advice.  About  twelve  o'clock  of  the 
same  day,  he  said,  '  Richard,  I  shall  shortly  be  no  more ;  I  feel  myself 
dying.'  Almost  choked  with  griefj  I  replied,  '  God  forbid,  ray  dear 
master :  you  will  live  many  years  yet.'  '  Don't  be  so  much  affected,  my 
dear  boy,  I  entreat  you,'  said  he :'  it  is  the  will  of  the  Almighty ;  it  can 
not  be  helped.  Take  care  of  my  journal  and  papers  after  my  death ; 
and  when  you  arrive  in  London,  go  immediately  to  my  agents,  send  for 
my  uncle,  who  will  accompany  you  to  the  Colonial  Office,  and  let  him 
see  you  deposit  them  safely  into  the  hands  of  the  secretary.  After  I  am 
buried,  apply  to  Bello,  and  borrow  money  to  purchase  camels  and  pro- 
visions for  your  journey  over  the  desert,  and  go  in  the  train  of  the  Arab 
merchants  to  Fezzan.  *  *  *  Remark  what  towns  or  villages  you 
pass  through  ;  pay  attention  to  whatever  the  chiefs  may  say  to  you,  and 
put  it  on  paper.  The  little  money  I  have,  and  all  ray  clothes,  I  leave 
you :  sell  the  latter,  and  put  what  you  may  receive  for  them  into  your 
pocket ;  and  if,  on  your  joiirney,  you  should  be  obliged  to  expend  it, 
government  will  repay  you  on  your  return.'  I  said,  as  well  as  my  agita- 
tion would  permit  me,  '  If  it  be  the  will  of  God  to  take  you,  you  may 
rely  on  my  faithful  performing,  as  far  as  I  am  able,  all  that  you  have 
desired ;  but  I  trust  the  Almighty  will  spare  you,  and  you  will  yet  live 
to  see  your  country.'    '  I  thought  I  should  at  one  time,  Richard,'  con- 


! 


616       CLAPPBRTON'S   SECOND    JOURNEY   TO    SACKATOO. 

tinned  he,  'but  aU  is  now  over;  I  shall  not  bo  long  for  this  worhl ;  but 
God^  w^  be  done.'    He  then  took  my  hand  betwixt  his,  and  loobng 
me  fulUn  the  face,  while  a  tear  stood  glistening  m  his  eye,  said,  m  a 
W  but  deeply  affecting  tone,  'My  dear  Richard,  if  you  had  not  been 
whh  me  I  should  havfdied  long  ago;  I  can  only  thank  yon  with  my 
k  est  breath,  for  your  kindness  and  attachment  to  me,  and  if  I  could 
have  lived  0  return  with  you,  you  should  have  been  placed  beyond  the 
reach  of  Vant ;  but  God  will  reward  you.'    This  conver^tion  occupied 
nearly    wo  ho'urs,  in  the  course  of  which  my  master  famted  severa 
Zes  and  was  distressed  beyond  measure.    The  same  evenmg  he  fell 
nToa  l^nZ,  from  which  he  awoke  in  much  perturbat  on,  and  said  he 
had  hearTw  h  much  distinctness  the  tolUng  of  an  English  funera  bell : 
I  entreated  him  to  be  composed,  and  observed  that  sick  people  fre- 
quently  Ley  they  hear  and  see  things  which  can  possibly  have  no  ex- 

istence.    He  made  no  reply.  ., , 

" Ibout  six  O'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  11th,  on  askmg  how  ho 
did  my  master  answered  he  was  much  better,  and  requested  me  to 
Ta^rhim.    On  the  morning  of  the  13th,  however  being  awake,  I  was 
mulh  al^ed  by  a  peculiar  rattling  noise,  proceeding  from  my  ma.ter'8 
Toat  and  his  breathing  was  loud  and  difficult ;  at  the  same  mstant  he 
caled  out  'Richard!'  iS  a  low  and  hurried  tone.    I  was  immediately 
at  Ws  Zl  and  was  astonished  at  seeing  him  sitting  upright  in  his  bed, 
and  star^^^^^^^         around.    I  held  him  in  my  arms   and  placing  h^ 
head  genUy  on  mjleft  shoulder,  gazed  a  moment  on  his  pale  and  altered 
fer«res:  some  indistinct  expressions  quivered  on  his  lips ;  ho  strove  but 
i^effectuallv  to  give  them  utterance,  and  expired  without  a  struggle  or 
Z^TwienhnnA  my  poor  master  so  very  ill,  I  called  out  with  aU 
mv  Bt^enrth    '  O  God,  my  master  is  dying !'  which  brought  Pascoe  and 
Sd  y  m°to 'ohe  apai-tikent.    Shortly  after  the  breath  had  left  his  body, 
ideslfed  Pascoe  to  fetch  some  water,  with  which  I  washed  the  corpse. 
I  then  got  Pascoe  and  Mudey  to  assist  mo  m  taking  it  outside  of  the 
hutlaid^it  on  a  clean  mat,  and  wrapped  it  in  a  sheet  and  blanket 
Leaving  it  in  this  state  two  hours,  I  put  a  large  clean  rnat  over    he 
whole  and  sent  a  messenger  to  Sultan  Bello,  to  acquamt  him  of  the 
^oinJt  nt  and  ask  hi!  permission  to  bury  the  body  after  the  man- 
Tr  of  my  own  country,  and  also  to  know  in  what  particular  f^ace  hi 
remains  were  to  be  interred.    Tho  messenger  soon  f  t«™«djvith  the 
la's  consent  to  the  former  part  of  my  request ;  and  about  12  o'clock 
at  noon  of  the  same  day  a  person  came  into  my  ^"t';^'':^™/--^,^^ 
four  slaves,  sent  by  Bello  to  dig  the  grave.    I  was  desired  to  follow 
them  with  the  coise.    Accordingly  I  saddled  f^y  «Tt\""^PT^ 
the  body  on  its  back,  and  throwing  a  union-jack  over  it,  I  bade  thena 
proceed.    Traveling  at  a  slow  pace,  we  halted  at  Jungavie    a  smaU 
village,  buUt  on  a  rising  ground,  about  five  miles  to  the  south-east  of 
sStoo.    The  body  wL  then  taken  from  the  camel's  back,  and  placed 
in  a  shed,  whUe  the  slaves  were  digging  the  grave ;  which  bemg  qmckiy 


^j^jjy::.--: . ^ ii^iti^iji^v^'ij.zJiiii^.ilf^^^^^^-' ■ 


TO    SACKATOO. 

g  for  this  world  ;  but 
wixt  his,  and  looking 
in  his  eye,  said,  in  a 
,  if  you  had  not  been 
ly  thank  yon,  with  my 
to  me,  and  if  I  could 
Ben  placed  beyond  the 
conversation  occupied 
master  fainted  several 
!  same  evening  he  fell 
i-turbation,  and  said  he 
n  English  funeral  bell : 
I  that  sick  people  fre- 
a  possibly  have  no  ex- 

[1th,  on  asking  how  he 
,  and  requested  mo  to 
rer,  being  awake,  I  was 
eding  from  my  master's 
;  at  the  same  instant  he 
(ne.  I  was  immediately 
tting  upright  in  his  bed, 
f  arms,  and  placing  his 
it  on  his  pale  and  altered 
1  his  lips ;  he  strove,  but 
ed  without  a  struggle  or 
ill,  I  called  out  with  all 
lich  brought  Pascoe  and 
breath  had  left  his  body, 
eh  I  washed  the  corpse, 
taking  it  outside  of  the 
in  a  sheet  and  blanket, 
rge  clean  mat  over  the 
,  to  acquaint  him  of  the 
r  the  body  after  the  man- 
vhat  particular  place  his 

Boon  returned  with  the 
8t ;  and  about  12  o'clock 
my  hut,  accompanied  by 

I  was  desired  to  follow 
d  my  camel,  and  putting 
jack  over  it,  I  bade  them 
ed  at  Jungavie,  a  small 
miles  to  the  south-east  of 
I  camel's  back,  and  placed 
ave ;  which  being  quickly 


HIS  BURIAL. 


617 


done,  it  was  conveyed  close  to  it.  I  then  opened  a  prayer-book,  and, 
amid  showers  of  tears,  read  the  funeral  service  over  the  remains  of  my 
valued  master.  Not  a  single  person  listened  to  this  peculiarly  distress- 
ing ceremony,  the  slaves  being  at  some  distance,  quarreling  and  making 
a  most  indecent  noise  the  whole  of  the  time  it  lasted.  This  being  done, 
the  union-jack  was  taken  off,  and  the  body  was  slowly  lowered  into  the 
earth,  and  I  Avept  bitterly  as  I  gazed  for  the  last  time  upon  all  that 
remained  of  my  generous  r  id  intrepid  master.  The  pit  was  speedily 
filled,  and  I  returned  to  the  village  about  thirty  yards  to  the  east  of 
the  grave,  and  giving  the  most  respectable  inhabitants,  both  male  and 
female,  a  few  trifling  presents,  entreated  them  to  let  no  one  disturb  its 
sacred  contents.  I  also  gave  them  two  thousand  cowries  to  build  a 
house,  four  feet  high,  over  the  spot,  which  they  promised  to  do.  I  then 
returned,  disconsolate  and  oppressed,  to  my  solitary  habitation,  and 
leaning  my  head  on  my  hand,  could  not  help  being  deeply  affected  Avith 
my  lonesome  and  dangerous  situation ;  a  hundred  and  fifteen  days' 
journey  from  the  sea-coast,  surrounded  by  a  selfish  and  cruel  race  of 
strangers,  my  only  friend  and  protector  moldering  in  his  grave,  and 
myself  suffering  dreadfully  from  fever.  I  felt,  indeed,  as  if  I  stood 
alone  in  the  world,  and  earnestly  wished  I  had  been  laid  by  the  side  of 
my  dear  master :  all  the  trying  evils  I  had  endured  never  affected  me 
half  so  much  as  the  bitter  reflections  of  that  distressing  period."* 

*  Captain  Hugh  Clapperton  was  born  in  Dumfriesshire,  Scotland,  in  the  year  1788,  and 
consequently  was  thirty-nine  years  old  at  the  time  of  his  death,  lie  received  rery  little 
education,  except  in  trigonometry  and  navigation,  and  was  apprenticed  on  board  a  mer- 
chant vessel,  at  the  age  of  thirteen.  Having  bnen  impressed  by  the  frigate  Renommee, 
at  Gibraltar,  in  1806,  he  was,  through  the  influence  of  an  uncle,  who  was  captain  of  the 
marines,  appointed  midshipman.  Ho  afterward  made  a  voyage  to  India  in  the  frigate 
Chrinde,  and  in  1814  was  sent  to  Bermuda  and  Halifax,  and  then  to  Upper  Canada.  He 
was  distinguished  aa  an  excellent  swordsman,  a  good  vocalist,  an  admirable  story-teller, 
a  frank,  whole-souled  companion,  and  a  faithful  friend.  "  In  the  winter  of  1815,"  says 
his  biographer,  "  he  was  placed  in  command  of  a  blockhouse  on  Lake  Ontario.  He  had 
only  one  small  gun  for  its  defense ;  ho  was  attacked  by  an  American  schooner ;  the 
blockhouse  was  soon  demolished  by  the  superiority  of  the  enemy's  fire,  and  ho  found  that 
himself  and  the  party  must  cither  become  prisoners  of  war,  or  form  tho  resolution  of 
crossing  Lake  Ontario  on  the  ice,  a  journey  of  forty  miles,  to  York  (Toronto),  the  nearest 
British  depot.  Notwithstanding  the  difficulty  and  danger  attending  a  journey  of  such 
length  over  the  ice  in  tho  depth  of  winter,  the  alfernativo  was  soon  adopted  and  the 
party  set  out  to  cross  the  lake,  but  had  not  gone  more  than  ten  or  twelve  miles,  before  a 
boy,  one  of  the  party,  was  unable  to  proceed  from  the  cold.  The  sailors  all  declared  that 
they  were  unable  to  carry  him,  as  they  were  so  benumbed  with  the  cold,  and  had  scorcely 
strength  suffirient  to  support  themselves.  Clapperton's  generous  nature  could  not  bear 
the  idea  of  a  fellow-creature  being  left  to  perish  under  such  appalling  circumstances,  for 
a  dreodful  snow-storm  had  commenced.  He  therefore  took  the  boy  upon  his  back,  hold- 
ing him  with  his  left  hand,  and  supporting  himself  from  slipping  with  a  staff  in  his  right 
In  this  manner  be  continued  to  go  forward  for  eight  or  nine  miles,  when  he  perceived  that 
the  boy  relaxed  his  hold,  and  on  examining  the  cause,  found  that  he  was  in  a  dying  state 
fh)m  the  cold,  and  soon  after  expired.  Tho  suflferings  of  the  whole  party  were  great  be- 
fore they  reached  York ;  the  stockings  and  shoos  completely  worn  off  their  feet,  and 


c 


! 


_, 


'V 


SAOKATOO. 


518 


CLAPPEBTON'S   SBOOND   JOURNEY   TO 


RETURN    JOURNEY    OF   RICHARD   LANDER. 


After  the  death  of  Ins  -ter,  U^h    d  L^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
days.    The  Arabs  in  the  city  -f  ^^^- J^^^^        P,,^  ,h,,  he  was 
dole  with  and  comfort  '^fl7^\^Z^^^,,,,,ov.U.y.  he  frequently 
obliged  to  keep  a  tub  of  ^^tei   at  bis  s      ,  ^^  ^^^^^. 

plunged  his  hands  and  arms.    ^J^^  ^^^^^fth  of  April,  and  the  next 
!ry,  his  health  sudden  y  >-P-;f  ^.^^^^^^^^^^^  Jrehed  the  boxes, 

day  he  was  able  to  sit  up     The  ^  -^  J^™         ^„^  ,^,,, .  but  to  his 
^vhich  he  had  been  ^"/«''7\^'7  '  **" '  J"  enough  to  take  him  back  to 
rprise,  found  that  ^^^ ^^^^X^ZL^L  person  the  watches  of 
the  sea-coast.    'Die  I'^tter  con  ^^^anded  the  arms  and  am- 

Clapperton  and  Pearc     J^^f  ^^^^''\,^^^    charged  him  two  hun- 
munition,  promismg  to  pay  tor  tnem  „„venty-five  dollars)  and 

Jred  and  forty-five  thousand  cowries  (about  seventy 
received  an  order  on  Hat  Salah  ^^  «^«;"J-  ^^^  B^n  Gumso,  who 

By  making  some  presents  to  an  «ld  Arab  name  ^^^^^,^,^ 

had  considerable  influence  -- ^^uk^vn  B|^^^^^^^^^ 

in  obtaining  permission  to  ^«Pf  ^^^h;  count^  of  the  Tuaricks  to 

that  he  should  go  from  Kano  throng  the  counti  y  ^^  ^^^^^^ 

Fezzan,  while  Lander  had  made  up  his  "^"^^^^^^^^^^^  ^  intention 

over  the  road  he  had  already  ^^'^^f^f  •    .^^^^^^^^^^  was  persuaded 

to  keep  Pascoe,  for  the  piirpose  of  f  «amng  las  f  ^^  ^^  Zander, 

to  let  him  go  as  far  as  Kano,  as  interpreter        *  >"/    ^^^  J^    ,„a  rc- 
"  that  the  sultan  had  nothing  more  to  say,  1  bowea  p 
tired.    I  never  saw  him  agai""  <.„.r,^^oo  on  the  4th  of  May,  but 

breakingupof  the  lake  fleet  and  w«  put  up^nha^P^y^^^  ^^  ^^.^^^^_  ^^ 

atives  in  Scotland  until  ^^^O,  when   Uappemng  to^^^^^  ^, 

made  application  to  join  the  '»"«'°°  *^„  ^^f;„;fSe  foregoing  narrative, 
remainder  of  his  history  is  contamed  ''»-*^^^  .^"^^^^^^  he  had  great  breadth  of 

Captain  Clapperton  was  about  five  feet  ^^^^^^^ '~ '''Jrt tonately  strong ;  he  was  a 
chest  and  expansion  of  sljouldors,  and  was  l^l^^^Z^Z^^nAnJ sni  human- 
handsome,  athletic,  powerful  man.  y^'.^^f.  ""^  J^^^^^^^^  reliance  on  the  native 

violence. 


J 


.  -<>tfnW»«:-.>^  f-w- 


r   TO   SACKATOO. 


■D   LANDER. 

er  was  very  ill  for  many 
,  and  pretended  to  con- 
a  so  warm  that  he  was 
nto  which  he  frequently 
ven  up  all  hope  of  recov- 
h  of  April,  and  the  next 
and  searched  the  boxes, 
aid  and  silver ;  but  to  his 
)ugh  to  take  him  back  to 
8  person  the  watches  of 
aanded  the  arms  and  am- 
er  charged  him  two  hun- 
seventy-five  dollars)  and 

)  named  Ben  Gumso,  who 
Lander  finally  succeeded 
latoo.  The  sultan  insisted 
ountry  of  the  Tuaricks  to 
o  return  by  way  of  Boussa, 
,  also  declared  his  intention 
ds  guns,  but  was  persuaded 
«  Finding,"  says  Lander, 
[  bowed  profoundly  and  re- 

.too  on  the  4th  of  May,  but 
shing  of  thirst.  Sitting  un- 
e  hundreds  of  Felatahs  and 
,p  of  water,  but  they  merely 

ihraent,  having  ha-i  nothing  during 
ction  of  Clappertoii'a  left  hand,  m 
•ts  of  the  frost,  tho  first  joint  of  hui 

hen  he  returned  to  England,  on  the 
,ay  Ho  then  resided  with  hia  rel- 
meet  Dr.  Oudney  at  Edinburg,  ho 
I,  and  hia  offer  was  accepted.  The 
foregoing  narrative. 
5he8  high;  he  had  great  breadth  of 
e  proportionately  strong ;  he  waa  a 
ssion  of  genial  kindness  and  human- 
iced  80  much  reliance  on  the  native 
,ot  be  overcome  by  disease,  and  untU 
death  (the  news  of  which  had  pre- 
ler  way,  except  through  accident  or 


LANDER'S  JOURNEY  SOUTHWARD. 


619 


exclaimed :  "  He  is  a  kaffir  (infidel) ;  let  him  die."  Finally,  a  young 
man,  in  spite  of  the  remonstrances  of  the  other  natives,  gave  him  a  cala- 
bash ftill,  which  revived  himself  and  his  horse,  and  enabled  them  to  go 
on.  Reaching  Eano  on  the  25th,  he  called  upon  Hat  Salah,  who  instead 
of  the  sultan's  cowries,  gave  him  a  female  slave,  with  some  red  caps  and 
beads.  After  four  days'  stay,  he  left  for  Funda,  taking  with  him  Pas- 
coe,  who  was  no  less  desirous  than  himself  to  escape  from  the  territory 
of  Houssa.  His  course  was  to  the  southward  and  eastward  of  that  which 
Clapperton  had  pursued  in  going  from  Badagry  to  Kano,  and  had  never 
before  been  traveled  by  a  European. 

On  the  18th  of  June  he  arrived  at  tho  town  of  Dunrora  (Darroro  of 
Barth),  in  the  kingdom  of  Yacoba.  "  Our  route,  some  parts  of  this 
day,"  says  he,  "  lay  over  steep  and  craggy  precipices,  of  a  most  awful 
height.  On  the  summit  of  one  of  these  places  the  path  was  barely  wide 
enough  for  a  single  beast  to  pass.  The  horse  that  carried  the  portman- 
teaus, in  which  were  the  journal,  papers,  watches,  etc.,  struck  himself 
against  a  piece  of  rock  and  was  precipitated  a  distance  of  eighty  yards, 
the  ropes  which  were  bound  around  the  portmanteaus  arresting  his  fur- 
ther progress.  This  accident  occasioned  us  two  hours'  delay,  but  the 
horse  was  not  materially  hurt.  We  had  been  traveling  about  half  an 
hour  after  leaving  this  spot,  when  we  came  to  a  place  from  which  there 
was  an  extensive  and  beautiful  prospect  of  tho  surrounding  country,  and 
eight  days'  journey  might  be  plainly  r-oen  before  us.  About  half  a  day's 
journey  to  the  east  stood  a  lofty  hill,  at  the  foot  of  which  lay  the  large 
city  of  Yacoba.  Mohammed  affirmed  that  there  is  a  river  called  Shar, 
or  Shary,  about  half  a  mile  from  that  place,  which  derives  its  source  fi'om 
Lake  Tchad  ;  and  that  canoes  can  go  from  the  lake  to  tho  Niger  at  any 
season  of  the  year* 

As  he  was  about  leaving  Dunrora  the  next  day,  on  his  way  south- 
ward, messengers  suddenly  arrived  from  the  King  of  Zegzeg  (a  small 
country  through  which  he  had  already  passed),  commanding  him  to  re- 
turn. In  spite  of  all  remonstrance,  he  was  obliged  to  comply.  "  Thus," 
he  remarks,  with  a  natve  and  touching  sincerity,  "  after  seventeen  days' 
perilous  traveling  from  Kano,  with  a  fair  prospect  of  reaching  Funda  in 
twelve  or  thirteen  more,  from  whence  four  days'  sail  would  bring  me  to 
tho  salt  water — a  new  country  opening  before  me,  and  filled  with  the 
most  lively  anticipations  of  solving  the  geographical  problem  which  had 
for  so  long  a  time  puzzled  Europeans,  of  ascertaining  whether  the  Niger 
actually  joins  the  sea  in  that  direction — was  I  obliged  to  abandon  my 
fondest  and  long-cherished  hopes,  and  return  to  Zegzeg ;  from  thence  to 
be  transported  the  Lord  knows  whither.    I  felt  depressed  and  unhappy 

*  At  Dunrora,  Lander  was  but  two  or  three  days'  journey  from  the  Chadda,  or  Biuu6, 
and  narrowly  escaped  the  geographical  discovery  made  by  Dr.  Barth  in  1861.  The 
Chadda,  however,  rises  in  the  mountains  of  Adaraowa,  and  has  no  connection  with  the 
Shary,  which  flows  into  Lake  Tchad  itom  the  south-east.  The  two  rivers  approach  each 
other  at  one  point,  and  are  often  confounded  by  the  natives. — ^B.  T. 


520      OLAPPBRTON'S  SECOND   JOUENET   TO    8ACKAT00. 
at  this  sudden  turn  in  my  affairs,  and  cared  not  much  whether  I  lived  or 

died  " 

The  rainy  season  had  now  commenced  and  he  was  detained  so  long 
bv  the  rising  of  the  rivers  tha  he  did  not  reach  Zegzeg  until  the  22d 
of  July.  He  had  reason  to  beli  !ve  that  the  king  had  sent  for  tim  merely 
to  gratify  his  curiosity,  as  he  h.d  never  seen  a  white  man  He  was  de- 
tained  but  two  days,  and  recei  ed  a  present  of  a  bullock  and  a  female 
slave  at  parting.  He  now  jud  ged  it  prudent  to  take  the  direct  route  to 
Boussa,  as  there  was  less  risk  of  being  arrested  on  the  way.  He  reached 
the  Niger  in  safety,  and  on  the  24th  of  August  arrived  at  Wawa,  just 
one  month  after  leaving  Zegzeg.  The  natives  had  been  very  kind  to 
him  on  the  road,  and  he  experienced  no  serious  difficulty  anywhere. 
In  the  villages  people  frequently  applied  to  him  to  write  charms,  and  as 
his  means  were  greatly  reduced,  he  gave  them  fragments  of  old  English 
ballads,  which  they  took  with  a  devout  belie""  in  their  efficacy. 

The  old  Governor  of  Wawa  received  him  with  great  kindness  and 
cordiality,  and  kept  him  until  the  4th  of  September,  detaining  some 
merchants  who  were  bound  for  Kiama,  in  order  that  they  might  accom- 
pany  him.  The  road  was  at  this  time  infested  with  robbers,  but  Lander 
reached  there  safely  on  the  9th,  and  remained  five  days.  The  generous 
old  king  supplied  him  with  provisions  in  abundance.  On  the  25th  he 
reached  Katunga,  the  capital  of  Yoriba.  The  king  would  not  allow  him 
to  wait  on  him,  lest  he  should  wet  his  feet,  but  came  himself  to  visit 
Lander,  accompanied  by  five  hundred  of  his  wives.  Lander  remamed 
at  Katunga  until  the  2l8t  of  October,  when  he  left  for  Badagry,  the 
king  giving  him  a  present  of  4000  cowries  (a  little  more  than  a  dollar) 
at  parting.  He  arrived  at  Badagry  without  accident,  on  the  2l8t  of 
November,  having  been  one  month  on  the  road. 

While  at  this  place  he  had  a  disagreeable  adventure,  which  he  thus 
relates :  "  Three  of  the  Portuguese  slave-merchants  residing  at  Badagry, 
went  to  the  king  one  day,  and  told  him  and  his  principal  men  that  I  was 
a  spy  sent  by  the  English  government,  and  if  sufiered  to  leave,  would 
soon  return  with  an  army  and  conquer  their  country.    This  the  credu- 
lous people  believed,  and  I  was  treated  with  coldness  and  distrust  by 
the  king  and  his  subjects,  who  seldom  came  to  see  me.    All  the  chief 
men  at  length  assembled  at  the  fetish  hut,  and  having  come  to  a  resolu- 
tion that  I  was  to  drink  a  fetish,  sent  for  me  to  appear  before  them.    On 
entering,  one  of  the  men,  presenting  me  with  a  bowl  in  which  was  about 
a  quart  of  a  liquid  resembling  water,  commanded  me  to  drink  it,  saying : 
♦  If  you  come  to  do  bad,  it  will  kill  you ;  but  if  not,  it  can  not  hurt  you.' 
There  being  no  resource,  I  immediately  and  without  hesitation  swallowed 
the  contents  of  the  bowl,  and  walked  hastily  out  of  the  hut,  through 
the  armed  men,  to  my  own  lodgings,  took  powerful  medicine  and  plenty 
of  warm  water,  which  instantly  ejected  the  whole  from  my  stomach,  and 
I  felt  no  ill  effects  from  the  fetish.    When  the  king  and  chief  men  found, 
after  five  days,  that  the  fetish  had  not  hurt  me,  they  became  extremely 


[■JHTi-  rtfamf--^ 


ntPpWHrMM 


-'  -'  ■»'-^~T -iiM-a>ii  t  "  r 


TO    8ACKAT00. 
luch  whether  I  lived  or 

16  was  detained  so  long 
h  Zegzeg  until  the  2  2d 
dad  sent  for  tim  merely 
hite  man.    He  was  de- 
a  bullock  and  a  female 
take  the  direct  route  to 
n  the  way.    He  reached 
arrived  at  Wawa,  just 
had  been  very  kind  to 
iU8  difficulty  anywhere, 
to  write  charms,  and  as 
ragments  of  old  English 
their  efficacy, 
vith  great  kindness  and 
tember,  detaining  some 
that  they  might  accom- 
dth  robbers,  but  Lander 
ive  days.    The  generous 
lance.    On  the  25th  he 
ing  would  not  allow  him 
lit  came  himself  to  visit 
ives.    Lander  remained 
de  left  for  Badagry,  the 
little  more  than  a  dollar) 
iccident,  on  the  2l8t  of 

dventure,  which  he  thus 
ants  residing  at  Badagry, 
I  principal  men  that  I  was 
suffered  to  leave,  would 
)untry.    This  the  credu- 
coldness  and  distrust  by 
)  see  me.    All  the  chief 
having  come  to  a  resolu- 
appear  before  them.    On 
I  bowl  in  which  was  about 
ed  me  to  drink  it,  saying : 
rnot,  it  can  not  hurt  you.' 
hout  hesitation  swallowed 
'  out  of  the  hut,  through 
erful  medicine  and  plenty 
ole  from  my  stomach,  and 
king  and  chief  men  found, 
B,  they  became  extremely 


LANDER'S    RETURN. 


621 


kind,  and  sent  me  presents  of  provisions,  etc.,  daily,  and  frequently  said 
I  was  protected  by  God,  and  that  it  was  out  of  the  power  of  man  to  do 
rae  an  injury. 

"  Captain  Morris,  of  the  brig  -Wana,  of  London,  hearing  of  my  being 
at  Badagry,  kindly  came  from  Whydah  to  fetch  me,  and  on  the  20th 
of  January,  1828, 1  went  on  board,  and  arrived  at  Cape  Coast  on  the 
.'Jlst.  Here  I  gave  my  faithful  slaves  their  freedom,  wiio  testified  tlieir 
Ronow  on  my  departure  by  heaping  sand  on  their  heads,  and  other 
marks  of  grief  peculiar  to  the  African  race. 

"  Sailed  from  Cape  Coast  in  the  Esk,  sloop-of-war,  February  3d  and 
arrxved  m  England  on  the  30th  of  April  following." 


I 


f 


! 
1 


1 


■Ulh  MWliiiw'"»-iiMiii 


WlBB.*^Mt,»;>iUr',    M 


EXPLORATIONS  OF  THE  NIGER. 


DISOOVBRIBS  OF  KICUARD  AND  JOHN    LANDER. 

I       Aftkr  returning  to  En- 
gland, Richard  Lander  made 
a  proposition  to  the  English 
government  to  undertake  an 
exploration  of  the  course  of 
the  Niger,  from  Boussa  to  the 
sea,  and  on  the  31st  of  De- 
cember, 1 829,  received  a  letter 
accepting  his  offer,  with  in- 
structions as  to  the  course  he 
should  pursue.    He  was  fur- 
nished with  all  the   articles 
necessary  for  the  journey,  and 
a  sum  not  exceeding  five  hun- 
dred dollars,  the  government 
agreeing  to  pay  one  hundred 
pounds  to  his  wife  for  the  first 
year  after  his  absence.    His 
brother  John,  who  also  volun- 
teered for  the  service,   was 
permitted  to  accompany  him, 
but  the  government  refused  to 
allow  him  any  compensation. 
The  brothers  embarked  at 
Portsmouth  on  the  9th   of 
r.       ^      ,         ,  ,  January,  1830,  and  reached 

Cape  Coast  on  the  22d  of  February.  Here  they  engaged  old  Pascoe 
and  his  wife,  and  two  Bornou  men  who  were  famUiar  with  the  English, 
and  could  speak  the  language  of  Houssa.  They  were  detained  some 
time,  waiting  for  a  vessel,  and  did  not  reach  Badagry  nntU  the  21st  of 
March.    The  kmg  received  them  rather  coldly,  and  so  far  from  bemg 


I 


524 


EXPLORATIONS   OP   THE    NIGER. 


crateful  for  the  handsome  prcHonts  they  had  brought  hun  continua  ly  do 

mandcd  more.     A  portion  of  the  inhabitants  appeared    o  be  hoH U  c  to 

Zr  und^rtiS^ing,  and  tried  to  persuade  the  king  to  demand  of     a.n 

from  Roi"«-    Endless  diffieulties  were  thrown  in  the.r  way ;  half  o  t h^n 
Buriy  of  goods  and  money  for  the  interior  was  bogged  or  extored  In 
thcm^  every  effort  at  conciliation  was  met  with  msolence  am  oomplamt 
'^::Z^.r.  persisted  in  their  demands  for  ^o.ts  -  ^^rse.  w.  I 
the  utmost  patience  and  perseverance.    Fmally,  on  the  31st,  attu  ic  i 
dlyrof  infuSe  vexation,  tl.ey  succeeded,  and  about  ten  o'clock  at  n.gat 
oninmcnced  their  voyage  up  the  Badagry  Kiver, 
Tt  le  Cth  of  April  they  arrived  at  Jannah  where  they  were    c- 

Lander  savs-  "  Several  strangers  accompany  us  from  town  to  to«n  in 

preparing  food,  etc.,  for  our  W'"'^     ^  .  .    ^  ^^^  ^,,^  ^,  three 

"""Thou-  ionrncy  through  .ho  kingdom  of  Yoriba,  by  nc»rly  th»  .amo 

^  i    u    \Z7ln  the  13th  of  May  approached  the  city  of  Ivatunga,  to 

ttr/;v T  f  tL^^^^^^^^^  leZ  been  forwarded.  Richard  gives 

he  tSow^^^^^  account  of  their  arrival:  "  Hundreds  of  people,  and  pe  - 

hansTlwere  to  s^j  thousands  the  number  would  not  be  oven-ated 

pleasmg  effect.    Aft^^^^^^^  are  numerous  trees,  and  underneath 


nWiWnPMkM 


■^fc^a^afc^"^-!   ^b>i>a 


1 


lER. 

t  him,  continually  do- 
rcil  to  be  hostile  to 
to  demand  of  them 
der  to  prevent  them 
cir  way ;  half  of  their 
^ged  or  extorted  from 
wlenco  and  complaint ; 
oats  and  horses,  witl) 
on  the  3l9t,  after  te  i 
ut  ten  o'elock  at  niyat 

J,  where  they  were  re- 
ho  treated  them  with 
d  to  remain  eight  days, 
arrived  from  Hadagry. 
on  the  14th.     Richard 
from  town  to  town,  in 
turnpike-gates,  by  stat- 
mdanta.     Women  have 
)f  our  men  from  Capo 
rttagc;  in  return  for  this 
>  useful  in  making  fires, 
afterward  John  Lander 
critical  for  two  or  three 
ered  sufficiently  to  pro- 

riba,  by  nearly  the  same 
years  previous,  was  ex- 
many  curious  anecdotes 
y  encountered  no  serious 

the  city  of  Katunga,  to 
jrwarded.  Richard  gives 
Ireds  of  people,  and  per- 
would  not  be  oven-ated, 
I  as  they  wound  through 
and  white  clothing,  con- 
's, produced  an  eminently 
rs  Ave  came  in  sight  of  the 
0U9  trees,  and  underneath 
various  groups  of  people 
oined  them,  partook  of  a 
.veling  fare,  and  then  re- 
vhich  the  natives  were  as- 
ealous  of  the  performance, 
le  respective  instruments, 

African,  who  was  hooted 


ILLNESS— THE    WIDOW    ZUMA. 


525 


and  laughed  at  by  his  companions  for  his  presumption,  and  gave  up  tlio 
trial  in  despair.  Thus  escorted  we  traveled  onward ;  and  atler  a 
hasty  ride  of  six  hours  from  Ectchu  beheld  from  a  little  eminence  those 
black,  naked  hills  of  granite  at  whose  base  lies  the  metropolis  of  Yoriha. 
About  an  hour  afterward  wc  entered  the  gates  of  that  extensive  city. 
As  is  the  custom,  we  staid  under  a  tree  just  inside  the  walls,  till  tiie 
king  and  his  eunuchs  were  informed  of  our  arrival,  which  having  been 
done,  after  a  wearisome  delay,  wo  rode  to  the  residence  of  Ebo,  the 
chief  eunuch,  who,  next  to  the  king,  is  the  most  influential  miia  in  the 
place." 

The  king  received  them  kindly,  but  by  the  advice  of  the  eunuch, 
they  said  nothing  to  him  of  the  real  object  of  their  journey,  pretending 
that  they  wore  on  their  way  to  Yaouri,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring 
Park's  papers.  Contrary  to  their  expectations,  he  did  not  detain  them 
more  than  a  week,  at  the  end  of  which  time  they  continued  their  jour- 
ney toward  Kiama.  As  they  approached  the  Borghoo  country,  the 
country  became  more  populous  and  cultivated,  and  the  people,  many  of 
whom  were  Felatahs,  treated  them  hospitably.  They  reached  Kiama  on 
the  28th  of  May,  and  went  directly  to  the  house  of  the  king,  who  had 
sent  an  armed  escort  to  meet  them,  and  appeared  well-pleased  to  see 
them.  During  their  stay  at  this  place,  there  were  several  public  festi- 
vals, attended  with  music,  dancing,  and  horse-races.  The  king  would 
not  permit  them  to  visit  Wawa,  but  required  that  they  should  go  direct 
to  Boussa. 

John  Lander  was  taken  ill  unmediately  after  leaving  Kiama,  and 
continued  to  grow  worse  from  day  to  day.  During  the  intervals  of  his 
delirium,  he  gave  directions  with  regard  to  his  family,  supposing  that  he 
could  not  live.  Richard  watched  him  with  great  distress  and  anxiety ; 
but  on  the  night  of  June  10th,  his  disorder  took  a  favorable  turn,  and 
he  gradually  recovered.  While  Richard  was  occupied  in  nursing  him, 
an  old  woman  applied  to  him  for  medicine  that  would  produce  her  an 
entire  new  set  of  teeth ;  or,  said  she,  "  if  I  can  only  be  supplied  with 
two  large  and  strong  ones,  I  shall  be  satisfied  with  them."  The  woman 
was  becoming  rather  impertinent,  when  Lander  recommended  her  to 
procure  tw^o  iron  ones  from  a  blacksmith,  which  so  much  displeased  her 
that  she  went  away  in  a  pet. 

They  reached  Boussa  on  the  iTth,  and  were  heartily  welcomed  by 
the  king  and  his  wife,  who  stated  that  they  had  both  been  weeping  all 
the  morning,  on  account  of  the  death  of  Clapperton,  though  their  faces 
showed  no  evidence  of  it.  The  next  day  Lander  writes :  "  The  noted 
widow  Zuma  visited  us  to-day  without  the  slightest  pretensions  to  finery 
of  any  kind,  either  in  her  dress  or  ornaments,  for  she  was  clad  in  very 
humble  apparel  of  country  cloth.  She  related  to  us,  with  great  good- 
humor,  her  quarrels  with  her  prince,  the  ruler  of  Wawa,  and  her  con- 
sequent flight  fi'om  that  city  to  escape  his  resentment.  It  appears,  that 
in  order  to  eflect  this,  she  was  actually  obliged  to  climb  over  the  city 


626 


EXPLORATIONS   OP   THE   NIGER. 


wall  in  the  night,  and  travel  on  foot  to  Houssa,  which  is  a  very  long 
journey,  and  to  a  woman  of  her  size  must  have  been  an  arduous  task. 
Sill'  alleged  that  she  had  done  nothing  whatever  to  merit  the  displean- 
ure  of  the  Wawa  chief,  notwitliHtanding  which  ho  had  robbed  her  ol 
all  her  household  furniture  and  a  number  of  her  Hlavea. 

"Wo  imagined,"  continues  Lander,  "that  it  would  have  been  bad 
polioy  to  have  stated  the  true  reason  of  our  visiting  this  country,  know- 
ing  the  jealousy  of  most  of  the  people  with  regard  to  the  Niger;  and 
therefore,  in  answer  to  the  king's  inquiries,  were  obUged  to  deceive  hina 
with  the  assertion  that  oui   object  was  to  go  to  Bornou  by  way  ot 
Yaouri,  requesting  at  the  same  time  a  safe  conveyance  through  his  ter- 
ritories.   This  answer  satisfied  the  kh.g,  and  he  promised  lus  every  a«. 
sistanco  in  his  power.    Our  visitors  remained  with  us  a  considerable 
time,  and  m  the  course  of  conversation,  one  of  them  observed  that  they 
had  in  their  possession  a  tobe  which  belonged  to  a  white  man  who  came 
from  the  north  many  years  ago,  and  from  whom  it  had  been  purchased 
by  the  king's  father.    We  expressed  great  curiosity  to  see  thia  tobe, 
and  it  was  sent  us  as  a  present  a  short  time  after  their  departure.    Con- 
trary to  our  expectations,  wo  fomid  it  to  be  made  of  nch  crimson 
damask,  and  very  heavy  from  the  immense  quantity  of  gold  embroidery 
with  which  it  was  covered.    As  the  time  when  the  late  king  is  said  to 
have  purchased  this  tobe  corresponds  very  nearly  to  the  supposed  period 
of  Mr.  Park's  death,  and  as  we  never  heard  of  any  other  white  man  liav- 
ing  come  from  the  north  so  far  south  as  Boussa,  we  are  "' J»ed  t«j;«; 
Ueve  it  to  be  part  of  the  spoU  obtained  from  the  canoe  of  that  lU-lated 

*"*'The'*next  day  a  man  brought  them  a  book  which  had  been  picked 
up  in  the  river  after  Park's  death.    It  proved  to  bo  an  old  volume  of 
navigation,  of  no  value,  but  between  the  leaves  were  some  oose  papers, 
one  of  which  was  an  invitation  to  dinner,  addressed  to  Park.    In  a  day 
or  two  afterward  messengers  arrived  to  conduct  them  to  the  Sultan  of 
Yaonri,  from  whom  they  hoped  to  obtain  more  satisfactory  relics  of 
Park's  expedition.    They  embarked  in  a  canoe,  and  proceeded  up  the 
Niger ;  the  river,  which  is  split  into  three  channels  and  obstructed  with 
rapids,  near  Boussa,  gradually  widened  to  the  extent  of  two  miles,  and 
continued  so,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.    In  most  places  it  was  ex- 
tremely shallow,  but  in  others  deep  enough  to  float  a  fngate.        Ihe 
banks  were  literally  covered  with  hamlets  and  villages ;  fine  trees,  bend- 
ing under  the  weight  of  their  dark  and  impenetrable  fohage,  everywhere 
relieved  the  eye  from  the  glare  of  the  sun',  rays  an.^  contrasted  with 
the  Uvely  verdure  of  the  Uttle  hiUs  and  plains,  produced  the  most  pleas- 

After  a  voyage  of  four  days,  they  landed  at  a  village  on  the  eastern 
bank,  eight  miles  from  the  city  of  Yaouri,  which  Ues  mland,  on  the  top 
of  a  steep  hUl.  The  path  up  the  hUl  was  so  narrow  that  two  men  could 
hardly  pass,  and  terminated  in  an  arched  way  through  the  waU  of  the 


liUmllimm 


IQER. 

,,  which  is  ft  very  long 
been  an  arduouH  task, 
r  to  merit  the  displeos- 
10  had  robbed  her  of 
laves. 

would  have  been  bad 
itig  this  cojintry,  know- 
ard  to  the  Niger ;  and 
obliged  to  deceive  him 
to  IJomou  by  way  of 
eyanco  through  his  ter- 
3  promised  us  every  aa- 
with  us  ft  considerable 
hem  observed  that  they 
a  white  man  who  came 
it  had  been  purchased 
•iosity  to  see  this  tobe, 
•  their  departure.    Con- 
made  of  rich  crimson 
iity  of  gold  embroidery 
the  late  king  is  said  to 
f  to  the  supposed  period 
ny  other  white  man  liav- 
(i,  we  are  inclined  to  be- 
le  canoe  of  that  ill-fated 

which  had  been  picked 
[  to  bo  an  old  volume  of 
were  some  loose  papers, 
jssed  to  Park.    In  a  day 
Bt  them  to  the  Sultan  of 
>re  satisfactory  relics  of 
3,  and  proceeded  up  the 
nels  and  obstructed  with 
extent  of  two  miles,  and 
n  most  places  it  was  ex- 
0  float  a  frigate.     "  The 
villages ;  fine  trees,  bend- 
rable  foliage,  everywhere 
■ays,  and,  contrasted  with 
produced  the  most  pleas- 
it  a  village  on  the  eastern 
ich  lies  inland,  on  the  top 
irrow  that  two  men  could 
■  through  the  wall  of  the 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^ttW^i*"  . 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


^mtf^ 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  MIcroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductlons  historiques 


-  ^.'jHftiawjwtawafWJtg.^  .*^ 


^ 


: 


DETENTION   AT   TAOUEI. 


527 


city,  closed  by  a  gate  covered  with  plates  of  iron.  Three  days  after 
their  arrival,  the  travelers  were  conducted  to  the  saltan.  Sayd  Richard 
Lander,  "  He  is  a  big-headed,  corpulent,  and  jolly-looking  man,  well 
stricken  in  years ;  and  though  there  is  something  harsh  and  forbidding 
in  his  countenance,  yet  he  was  generally  smiling  during  the  conference. 
The  conversation  commenced  in  the  usual  complimentary  way ;  and  then 
our  object  in  visiting  Yaouri  was  briefly  and  indirectly  hinted  at.  When 
we  asked  him  whether  he  did  not  send  a  letter  to  the  late  Captain  Clap- 
perton,  while  that  oflicer  was  at  Koolfu,  in  which  he  had  affirmed  that 
he  had  certain  books  and  papers  in  his  possession  which  belonged  to  Mr. 
Park,  he  appeared  very  much  confused.  After  thinking  and  hesitating 
a  good  while,  he  answered  with  au  affected  laugh,  '  How  do  you  think 
that  I  could  have  the  books  of  iv  person  that  was  lost  at  Boussa  ?'  and 
this  was  all  he  said  on  the  subject." 

After  remaining  at  Yaouri  seven  days,  vunly  endeavoring  to  procure 
further  information  concerning  Park,  the  patience  of  the  travelers  was 
exhausted,  and  they  sent  Pascoe  with  a  message  to  the  sultan,  that  they 
earnestly  wished  to  receive  a  final  and  decisive  answer  with  regard  to 
the  restoration  of  Mr.  Park's  papers,  which  they  declared  to  have  been 
the  sole  object  of  their  visiting  him,  and  that  it  was  their  desire  to  quit 
Yaouri  immediately.  "  This  bold  and  to  us  unusual  language  seemed 
to  have  surprised  and  startled  the  sultan,"  says  Richard  Lander,  "  and 
he  instantly  dispatched  the  old  Arab  to  inform  us,  '  that  he  declared  to 
God,  in  the  most  solemn  manner,  that  he  had  never  had  in  his  possession, 
nor  seen,  any  books  or  papers  of  the  white  travelers  that  perished  at 
Boussa.*  The  Arab  likewise  assured  us  that  we  were  at  liberty  to  pro- 
ceed on  our  journey  whenever  we  should  think  proper."  They  were 
thus  obliged  to  give  up  all  hopes  of  recovering  Park's  journals,  but  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  one  of  his  muskets  from  a  native  of  Yaouri.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  that  Park  reached  Boussa,  and  met  his  death  in  the 
manner  stated. 

The  sultan  afterward  requested  the  travelers  to  remain  a  few  days 
longer,  until  he  could  write  to  the  King  of  England  an  explanation  of 
his  conduct  toward  Mungo  Park,  and  an  account  of  the  death  of  the  lat- 
ter. Meanwhile,  there  were  indications  of  a  war  between  Nyfie  and 
Yaouri,  which  would  make  their  journey  to  Funda,  on  the  Niger,  haz- 
ardous by  land.  They  therefore  sent  a  messenger  to  the  King  of  Boussa, 
stating  that  they  would  be  obliged  to  return  to  the  salt  water  to  obtain 
more  money  and  presents  before  proceeding  to  Bomou — (they  had  pre- 
viously stated  that  they  were  on  their  way  to  Bomou,  on  account  of  the 
great  jealousy  of  the  natives  concerning  any  exploration  of  the  Niger) — 
and  would  be  glad  if  he  would  furnish  them  with  a  canoe  to  Funda,  as 
the  King  of  Badagry  had  treated  them  so  ill  that  they  were  afraid  to 
return  thither.  On  the  18th  of  July,  the  messenger  returned,  and  to 
their  great  joy  stated  that  the  King  of  Boussa  would  furnish  them  with 
a  canoe  to  Funda,  provided  the  road  by  land  was  not  safe,  but  advised 


fr! 


i 


it 

I 

11 


IS 


|. 


528 


EXPLORATIONS   OF   THE   NIGER. 


them  to  obtain  also  the  permiasion  of  the  Kingof  Wawa,  and  other  petty 
sovereigns  whose  territories  extended  to  the  river.  They  were  now 
ready  to  leave,  but  the  sultan  detained  them  from  day  to  day,  on  the 
most  frivolous  and  contradictory  pretexts,  until  final'yj  on  the  26th,  a 
messenger  arrived  from  the  King  of  Boussa,  to  request  their  immediate 
release.  On  the  Ist  of  August,  they  received  permission  to  depart,  and 
immediately  left,  after  a  residence  of  five  weeks  in  Yaouri,  whicn  Rich- 
ard L.-inder  describes  as  the  largest  city  in  Central  Africa,  its  walls  being 
more  than  twenty  miles  in  circuit. 

Soon  after  their  return  to  Boussa,  the  king  declared  that  he  should 
go  down  and  ask  the  Dark  Water  (as  the  Niger  is  termed  by  the  na- 
tives), whether  it  would  be  favorable  to  their  undertaking.  They  waited 
in  some  anxiety  for  the  result,  and  were  not  a  little  relieved  when  he 
came  to  them  next  morning  with  a  cheerful  countenance,  and  stated 
that  the  answer  was  good,  the  river  having  promised  to  conduct  them 
in  safety  down  its  current.  They  then  set  out  for  Wawa,  to  procure  the 
j)ermission  of  the  king  of  that  country,  whose  territory  borders  on  the 
Niger  below  Boussa.  He  received  them  with  the  greatest  kindness,  at 
once  acceded  to  their  request,  and  sent  a  messenger  to  Comie,  or  the 
king's  ferry,  to  engage  a  canoe  for  them.  Richard  Lander  was  taken 
very  ill,  and  obliged  to  return  to  Boussa,  where  he  had  left  his  medicine- 
chest.  Here  he  soon  recovered,  and  was  joined  by  his  brother  John,  on 
the  2 Ist  of  August.  The  canoe  offered  them  by  the  King  of  Wawa 
proved  to  be  too  small,  and  they  were  greatly  delayed  by  the  difficulty 
of  procuring  a  suitable  one.  In  addition  to  this,  the  king  had  sent  a  mes- 
senger to  Rabba  (Rakka  of  Clapperton),  and  the  intermediate  towns  on 
the  river,  requesting  permission  for  the  travelers  to  pass  down  in  safety, 
and  desired  them  to  wait  until  he  had  received  an  answer. 

They  were  thus  obliged  to  remain  at  Boussa  until  the  19th  of  Sep- 
tember, when  "to  our  imspeakable  joy,"  says  Lander,  "the  long- 
expected  and  wished-for  messenger  arrived  in  this  city  from  Rabba, 
accompanied  by  two  messengers  from  the  king  of  Nyffe,  one  of  whom, 
a  modest-looking,  respectable  young  man,  is  his  own  son.  These  men 
are  to  be  our  guides  as  far  as  Rabba,  after  we  have  passed  which  city, 
all  the  Nyffe  territory  to  the  southward  is  under  the  surveillance  of 
Edercsa  and  his  partisans.  *Tho  magia,'  says  the  Boussa  embassador, 
'  was  delighted  with  the  intelligence  that  white  men  were  to  honor  his 
dominions  with  their  presence ;'  he  showed  me  the  presents  sent  to  him 
by  Captain  Clapperton  three  years  ago,  and  said  a  great  deal  in  his  favor 
and  commendation.  '  And  as  a  proo^'  continued  the  man,  '  of  his 
friendly  disposition  toward  you,  and  his  interest  in  your  welfiire,  he  has 
not  only  sent  his  son  as  your  companion  and  guide,  but  he  has  likewise 
dispatched  a  messenger  to  every  town  on  the  banks  of  the  Niger  either 
considerable  or  unimportant,  even  as  far  as  Funda.» 

"  The  king  of  Boussa  was  overwhelmed  with  delight  at  this  intelli- 
gence; he  capered  around  his  hut  with  transport,  when  he  saw  our 


\ 


BR. 

awa,  and  other  petty 
T.  They  were  now 
1  day  to  day,  on  the 
aal'yt  on  the  26th,  a 
[lest  their  immediate 
ission  to  depart,  and 
Yaouri,  whicii  Rich- 
irica,  its  walls  being 

blared  that  he  should 
is  termed  by  the  na- 
rking. They  waited 
e  relieved  when  he 
itenance,  and  stated 
sed  to  conduct  them 
rawa,  to  procure  the 
itory  borders  on  the 
greatest  kindness,  at 
rer  to  Comie,  or  the 
i  Lander  was  taken 
iiad  left  his  medicine- 
his  brother  John,  on 
the  King  of  Wawa 
iyed  by  the  difficulty 
king  had  sent  a  mes- 
itermediate  towns  on 

pass  down  in  safety, 
inswer. 

atil  the  19th  of  Sep- 
Lander,  "the  long- 
lis  city  from  Rabba, 
Nyffe,  one  of  whom, 
im  son.  These  men 
ve  passed  which  city, 
r  the  aurveittance  of 

Boussa  embassador, 
en  were  to  honor  his 

presents  sent  to  him 
rreat  deal  in  his  favor 
d  the  man,  '  of  his 
your  wel&re,  he  has 

but  he  has  likewise 
s  of  the  Niger  either 

ilight  at  this  intelli* 
b,  when  he  saw  our 


affp:cting  departure  from  boussa. 


529 


guides  and  heard  their  message ;  and  after  a  burst  of  joy,  he  began  to 
cry  like  a  chil«J,  his  he.irt  was  so  full.  '  Now,'  said  he,  when  he  had 
become  more  composed,  '  whatever  may  happen  to  the  white  men,  my 
neighbors  can  not  but  acknowledge  that  I  have  taken  every  care  of 
them,  treated  them  as  became  a  king,  and  done  my  best  to  promote 
their  happiness  and  interests.  They  will  not  be  able,'  continued  the 
monarch  with  exultation,  '  they  dare  not  have  the  effrontery  to  cast  at 
me  a  reproach  like  that  which  they  bestowed  upon  my  ancestor.'  " 

Thu  next  morning  they  quitted  Boussa,  and  embarked  in  their  c.-mocs, 
full  of  joy  at  their  success  thus  far,  and  hopeful,  notwithntanding  the 
certain  perils  that  awaited  them.  Lander  thus  describes  their  farewell 
to  Boussa,  where,  in  spite  of  delays,  they  had  been  treated  with  steady 
kindness  and  good  faith.  "  When  we  quitted  the  hut,  we  found  our 
yard  filled  with  neighbors,  friends,  and  acquaintances,  who  all  fell  down 
on  their  knees  to  bid  us  good-by.  They  blessed  us  earnestly  with  up- 
lifted hands,  and  those  among  them  that  were  of  the  Mohamtnedan 
religion  feiwently  implored  for  us  the  favor  and  protection  of  Allah  and 
thei"  prophet.  The  eyes  of  many  of  them  were  streaming  with  tears, 
and  all  were  more  or  less  affected.  As  we  passed  by  these  poor  crea- 
tures, we  spoke  to  them  all,  and  thanked  them  again  and  again  for  their 
good  wishes.  Our  hearts  must  have  been  of  marble  if  wc  could  have 
beheld  such  a  scene  without  some  slight  emotion.  On  our  way  toward 
the  river,  also,  the  path  was  lined  with  people,  some  of  whom  saluted  us 
on  one  knee,  and  some  on  both,  and  wc  received  their  benedictions  as 
we  walked  along." 

The  current  was  very  swift  and  the  navigation  dangerous  until  they 
had  passed  the  frontier  of  Boussa  at  the  king's  ferry,  where  the  Niger 
becomes  broader  and  deeper.  They  halted  at  the  island  of  Patashic, 
until  they  could  procure  a  larger  canoe,  which  they  had  j)urchascd  of 
the  king  of  Wawa,  but  were  again  subjected  to  vexatious  delays.  Rich- 
ard Lander  was  obliged  to  proceed  once  more  to  Wawa,  and  part  with 
more  presents  from  his  rapidly  diminishing  store,  before  the  matter  could 
be  arranged.  Meanwhile  they  were  treated  with  the  greatest  kindness 
and  hospitality  by  the  natives,  and  supplied  with  more  provisions  than 
they  were  ab'e  to  consume.  The  king  of  Wawa  had  promised  to  send 
the  canoe  to  a  large  town  called  Lever,  a  short  distance  below  Patashie : 
they  started  again  on  the  30th,  but  were  astounded  on  arriving  at  Lever, 
to  find  that  the  place  was  not  in  the  territory  of  Wawa,  and  the  king 
did  not  possess  a  single  canoe  there.  Tliey  were  therefore  obliged  to 
detain  a  large  canoe  whicii  they  had  borrowed  at  the  island  of  Patashie, 
the  Wawa  messengers  promising  that  the  king  would  j  ay  for  it.  Soon 
afterward  the  chief  of  Patashie  sent  for  it,  but  the  governor  of  Lever 
rcfiised  to  give  it  up,  and  detained  the  travelers  from  day  to  day,  until 
their  patience  M-as  at  an  end.  Although  they  were  wholly  in  the  power 
of  the  natives,  they  went  to  the  chief  priest,  who  was  at  the  bottom  of 
these  intrigues,  and  in  the  presence  of  him  and  the  governor,  declared 

34 


I 


PXPLORATIONS   OF    THE    KIOEU. 
&30  ,      ,  .  „  ^,,.1  ,vouM  shoot  down 

ofsigUtoftbci)lace. 


niio.l  RaicVie,  and  started  next     ; 
S  ~.»«1™W°  "'""'y-    XT,  *"    mbdUAcd  «W.  mighty  trc« 

returned  in  the  «>venuig,  with  a  rne^'^ag  ^  ^^  ^  ^^^  ^^^^.^^^  ,f  ^i.e  Dark 
,,,,,  they  were  until  !">>  ^^^  ;^^"^;  ^.erning  in  a  canoe  yropeUed  b> 
Water."     This  monarch  eanie  the  nex  _____——— 


iwiiti 


^,,^^>^,^.mm0m^r^V'^mm?^¥W''»^^^F'^^-'^^«%^ 


. 


i\  shoot  down 
Tlii«  vroclufod 
j)olitc  and  sub- 
bark,  and  push 
Tried  them  out 


io,  and  started  next     I 
own,"  suy8  Lander,     | 
nearly  equal  width,     j 
the  eastern  branch,     : 
the  banks  was  very     \^ 
but  verdant,  woody,     \ 
a  very  few  minutes,     \ 
banks  presented  the     1 
,a  with  mighty  trees     , 
.xuriant  foliage,  some 
[e  birds  were  singing 
ts  of  creeping  plants, 
trees,  and  drooping 
rottoes,  pleasing  and 
for  the  Naiads  of  the 

a,  and  stopped  at  aB 
,ger  to  the  king,  ^e 
wt  they  should  remain 
,c"Kingof  theT)a« 
n  a  canoe  propelled  by 


DANGKR    FROM    HIPPOPOTAMI. 


531 


twenty  young  men,  who  sang  in  time  to  the  motion  of  the  paddles.  The 
kin"'  sat  under  an  awning  hung  with  scarlet  cloth,  and  M'as  attended  by 
six  of  his  wives  and  two  handsome  pages.  lie  Avas  a  stately  man,  well- 
stricken  in  years ;  his  skin  was  coal-black  and  his  features  coarse,  but 
commanding.  He  received  the  travelers  cordially,  presented  them  with 
honey  and  goora-nuts,  and  offered  to  accompany  them  to  the  island  of 
Zagoshi,  opposite  Kabba,  where  they  were  to  remain. 

Here  they  were  detained  eight  days  by  the  deceit  and  rapacity 
of  the  King  of  Rabba  and  the  Kuig  of  the  Dark  Water.  The  former 
at  first  expressed  himself  delighted  with  the  presents  they  sent  him,  but 
in  a  short  time  changed  his  tone,  and  said  they  were  not  fit  for  a  child. 
The  travelers  had  a  rich  crimson  robe,  which  had  been  found  among 
Park's  goods,  and  was  presented  to  them  by  the  King  of  Boussa.  This 
they  were  compelled  to  part  with ;  but  the  king  was  so  much  pleased 
that  he  promised  to  procure  them  a  large  canoe,  and  refused  to  listen  to 
the  proposals  which  were  made  to  him  to  plunder  them.  They  had  the 
greatest  difl[iculty,  nevertheless,  in  getting  a  canoe  sufliciently  large  and 
strong,  while  the  natives  positively  refused  to  sell  their  paddles,  and 
the  Landers  were  therefore  compelled  to  permit  their  men  to  steal  as 
many  as  they  Avanted,  by  night.  At  length,  after  much  suspense  and 
anxiety,  and  no  little  peril,  considering  the  nature  of  the  people  with 
whom  they  had  to  deal,  they  pushed  off  on  the  16th,  and  resumed  their 
voyage  down  the  stream. 

Aft;er  paddling  all  day,  during  which  they  made  about  thirty  miles, 
they  attempted  to  go  ashore  for  the  night,  but  found  the  banks  so 
marshy  that  it  was  impossible  to  land.  The  men  became  very  much 
fatigued,  and  they  finally  permitted  the  canoe  to  float  with  the  current. 
"  But  here,"  says  Richard  Lander,  "  a  fresh  evil  arose,  which  we  were 
unprepared  to  meet.  An  incredible  number  of  hippopotami  arose  very 
near  us,  and  came  plasliing,  snorting,  and  plunging  all  round  the  canoe, 
and  placed  us  in  imminent  danger.  Thinking  to  frighten  them  off,  we 
fired  a  shot  or  two  at  them,  but  the  noise  only  called  up  from  the  water, 
and  out  of  the  fens,  about  as  many  more  of  their  unwieldy  companions, 
and  we  were  more  closely  beset  than  before.  Our  people,  who  had 
never  in  all  their  lives  been  exposed  in  a  canoe  to  such  huge  and  formi- 
dable beasts,  trembled  with  fear  and  apprehension,  and  absolutely  wept 
aloud ;  and  their  terror  was  not  a  little  increased  by  the  dreadful  peals 
of  thunder  which  rattled  over  their  heads,  and  by  the  awful  darkness 
which  prevailed,  broken  at  intervals  by  flashes  of  lightning,  whose 
powerfiil  glare  was  truly  awful.  Our  i)eople  tell  us  that  these  formida- 
ble animals  frequently  upset  canoes  in  the  river,  when  every  one  in  them 
is  sure  to  ])erish.  These  came  so  close  to  us,  that  we  could  reach  them 
with  the  butt  end  of  a  gun." 

During  the  night  a  violent  storm  came  on,  and  for  several  hours  the 
canoe  was  in  great  danger  of  being  swamped  by  the  agitation  of  the 
waves.     At  last  they  succocdod  in  attaching  it  to  a  tree  in  the  current, 


6S2 


EXPLORATIONS    OF   THE    NIGER. 


and  lay  there  until  dawn,  when  they  started  again.  During  that  day 
and  the  next  they  went  slowly,  on  account  of  the  rains,  but  were  not 
molested  by  the  natives  whom  they  met.  On  the  forenoon  of  the  10th, 
they  were  inf(Mined  that  the  large  town  of  Egga,  where  they  had  been 
advised  to  stop,  was  near  at  hand.  "  We  journeyed  onward  for  half  an 
hour,"  says  the  narrative,  "  when  we  perceived  a  large,  handsome  town 
behind  a  dcej)  morass.  Several  little  inlets  led  through  it  to  the  town, 
distant  about  three  miles  from  the  bank  of  the  river,  which,  as  we  drew 
near,  we  learned  was  the  place  of  which  we  were  in  quest.  It  was  the 
long-sought  Egga,  and  Ave  instantly  proceeded  up  a  creek  to  the  landing- 
place.  The  town  is  upward  of  two  miles  in  length,  and  we  were  struck 
with  the  innuense  number  of  large,  bulky  canoes  which  lay  otf  it,  and 
which  were  filled  with  trading  commodities,  and  all  kinds  of  merchandise 
which  arc  common  to  the  country.  They  also  had  huts  in  them,  like 
the  canoes  wo  had  seen  before.  All  of  them  had  blood  smeared  on 
their  sterns,  and  feathers  stuck  in  it  as  a  charm  or  preservative  against 
robbers  and  the  evil-disposed." 

They  were  well  received  at  Egga,  but  were  much  annoyed  by  the 
curiosity  of  the  natives,  who,  never  having  before  seen  white  men, 
crowded  into  the  house  until  they  were  nearly  suiTocated.  They  re- 
mained at  this  place  two  days :  the  chief  did  not  attempt  to  prevent 
them  from  leaving,  but  their  men  were  so  terrified  by  the  reports  of  the 
fierce  tribes  further  down  the  river,  that  they  refused  to  proceed,  and 
demanded  their  pay.  This  the  travelers  would  not  give :  the  chief  was 
appealed  to  by  the  boatmen,  but  declared  himself  neutral  in  the  matter, 
and  the  difficulty  ended  in  the  men  coming  back  the  following  morning, 
and  taking  their  place  in  the  canoe.  Soon  after  leaving  Egga,  there 
were  indications  of  an  approach  to  the  sea.  A  gull  flew  over  their 
heads ;  and  the  native  canoes  greatly  rosembled  those  on  the  Calabar 
Kiver.  "  For  many  miles,"  says  Lander,  "  we  could  see  nothing  but 
largo,  open,  well-built  villages  on  both  banks  of  the  river,  but  more 
especially  on  the  eastern,  and  tracts  of  land  covered  with  verdure,  or 
prepared  for  cultivation,  between  them.  Here  nature  seems  to  have 
scattered  her  favors  with  an  unsparing  hand.  Yet  we  touched  at  none 
ot"  these  goodly  places,  but  continued  our  journey  till  the  sun  began  to 
decline,  and  the  men  to  be  fatigued,  when  we  stopped  at  a  small  hamlet 
on  an  island,  intending  to  sleep  there." 

Here,  however,  they  were  not  received  in  a  friendly  manner,  and  the 
natives  advised  them  to  go  on  to  a  city  called  Kacunda,  where  the  Houssa 
language  was  spoken.  They  arrived  at  this  place  in  the  evening,  and 
were  welcomed  by  a  Mohammedan  priest,  who  entertained  them  for  the 
night.  Tlie  next  morning  the  king's  brother  came,  and  received  them 
with  no  less  kindness  and  cordiality.  He  made  them  presents,  which 
they  were  too  poor  to  return  adequately,  but  he  was  more  than  satisfied 
by  the  gift  of  some  little  trifles  which  he  saw  about  the  room.  Becom- 
ing more  friendly  and  confidential,  he  gave  them  a  terrible  account  of 


MiSti^^. 


)uring  that  day 
19,  but,  were  not 
)on  of  the  19th, 
)  they  had  been    j 
ward  for  half  an 
handsome  town    | 
li  it  to  the  town,     j 
lich,  a8  we  drew 
lest.    It  was  the 
k  to  the  landing- 
l  we  were  struck 
b  lay  otf  it,  and 
Is  of  merchandise 
Its  in  them,  like 
)lood  smeared  on 
iservative  against 

I  annoyed  by  the 
seen  white  men, 
seated.    They  re- 
ttempt  to  prevent 
the  reports  of  the 
id  to  proceed,  and 
ive :  the  chief  was 
itral  in  the  matter, 
following  morning, 
saving  Egga,  there 
ill  flew  over  their 
86  on  the  Calabar 
d  see  nothing  but 
lie  river,  but  more 
■d  with  verdure,  or 
ure  seems  to  have 
we  touched  at  none 
ill  the  sun  began  to 
jd  at  a  small  hamlet 

dly  manner,  and  the 
la,' where  the  Houasa 
in  the  evening,  and 
rtained  them  for  the 
j  and  received  them 
;iem  presents,  which 
a  more  than  satisfied 
t  the  room.  Becora- 
a  terrible  account  of 


PERILOUS    VOYAGE    BY    NIOIIT. 


583 


the  natives  further  down  the  river,  and  advised  them  to  return  by  the 
way  they  caino.  As  lie  found  them  rost)lved  to  depart,  ho  thou  said,  "  If 
you  will  not  bo  persuaded  by  inc  to  turn  buck,  and  save  yoiu-  lives,  at 
least  you  must  not  leave  this  by  daylight,  but  stop  until  the  sun  goes 
down,  and  you  may  then  go  on  your  jouniey— you  will  then  puss  tho 
most  dangerous  town  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  and  i)erhaps  save  your- 
selves." The  travelers  placed  faith  in  tho  reprosoiitatioiis  of  this  man, 
and  therefore  judged  it  prudent  to  postpone  their  departure  until  tho  fol- 
lowing afternoon.  While  at  Kacunda,  they  learned  that  Fuuda  was  not 
on  the  Niger,  but  on  the  Chadda,  the  moutli  of  which  river,  it  was  stated, 
was  but  a  day's  journey  distant.  They  were  promised  a  guide,  but  ho 
disappeared  just  before  the  appointed  time ;  tho  chief  used  every  argu- 
ment except  force  to  prevent  their  departure,  but  they  were  resolute, 
and  put  oil"  from  Kacunda  on  the  i!4th. 

"At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,"  says  Lander,  "  wo  offered  up  a 
prayer  to  the  Almighty  Disposer  of  all  human  events  for  ])rotection  on 
our  future  voyage,  that  He  would  doign  to  extend  to  us  Tlis  all-saving 
power  among  the  lawless  barbarians  it  was  our  lot  to  bo  obliged  to  pass. 
Having  done  this,  we  next  ordered  Pascoe  and  our  people  to  eoinmence 
loading  the  canoe.  I  shall  never  forget  them,  poor  fellows ;  they  Avoro 
all  in  tears,  and  trembled  with  fear.  One  of  them,  named  Antonio,  a  na- 
tive of  Bonny,  and  son  to  the  late  chief  of  that  river,  was  as  much  af- 
fected as  the  rest,  but  on  a  different  account.  For  himself,  he  said  that 
he  did  not  care  ;  his  own  life  was  of  no  consequence.  All  ho  feared  was, 
that  my  brother  and  I  should  bo  murdered ;  he  loved  xis  dcariy :  he  had 
been  with  us  ever  since  we  had  left  the  sea,  and  it  would  be  as  bad  as 
dying  himself  to  see  us  killed. 

"We  were  now  fairly  off,  and  prepared  ourselves  for  tho  Avorst. 
*  Now,' said  I,  'my  boys,'  as  our  canoe  glided  down  with  tho  stream,  'lot 
us  all  stick  together.  I  hope  that  we  have  none  among  us  who  will  flinch, 
come  what  may.'  Antonio  and  Sam  said  they  Avere  determined  to  stick 
to  us  to  tho  last.  The  former  I  have  before  alluded  to  ;  tho  latter  is  a 
native  of  Sierra  Leone,  and  I  believe  them  both  to  be  firm  follows  when 
required.  Old  Pascoe  and  Jowdie,  two  of  my  former  people,  I  knew 
could  be  depended  on  ;  but  the  new  ones,  although  they  boasted  much 
Avhen  they  found  that  there  Avas  no  avoiding  it,  I  had  not  much  depend- 
ence on,  as  I  had  not  had  an  opportunity  of  trying  them.  We  directed 
the  four  muskets  and  two  pistols  to  be  loaded  with  ball  and  slugs,  deter- 
mined that  our  opponents,  Avhoever  they  might  be,  should  moot  with  a 
warm  reception  ;  and  having  made  every  preparation  for  our  defense 
which  Ave  thought  Avoidd  be  availing,  and  encouraging  our  little  btmd  to 
behave  themselves  gallantly,  Ave  gave  three  hearty  cheers,  and  com- 

'    mended  ourselves  to  Providence. 

'  "  Our  little  vessel  moA'cd  on  in  grand  style  under  tho  vigorous  and 

animated  exertions  of  our  men.     Shortly  after  leaving  Kacunda,  tho 
river  took  a  turn  due  south,  between  tolerably  high  hills ;  tho  strength 


KXl'LORATIONS    OF    TIIK    NIGER.  ] 

.         1     I    ,>t  fi...  uiinc      A  tbw  miles  further  on, 
„.Hhe  current  ^""^^^^^:Z,  .^w,    ,V.,™  »«*  i».™a    : 

„u.on  and  htais  now  alio luc  .h  stream,  and  for 

water.  .  ,.  ,       f         „  villace,  to  which  we     , 

werc!  very  close,  ami  Iiciru  ptuiin.  ','  ^..T  nv.'i-  to  the  opposite  side     i 

,„„.,„.,u,e  of^^'^zTL^:^^^  ^''  "-,",'«'■' 

to  get  away,  lor  fear  ot  a  liu  kin^  u.i  fc,    ,  ^^^^^  ^j^^^ 

was  following  us,  but  it  was  only  a  /^'l^  °  ;  '^  ^^'P'„^„  i,,^  g,„e  down,  , 

and  trees  -" '"^^  d7rrtt 'coid^^^^^^^  \ 

it  l>---/f^^- tiled    a^^^^^^      o"seciuence  was,  that  we  were  sud-  | 

^:;;ss;Xt;^tlth.oane.iy  a^^  ^ 

;;:a\:^sr  :i^r  zsi:i:;  :^r  :^^,  -  it  co.  two  hour. , 

hard  labor  to  get  out  into  the  main  «  agam  , 

u  At  live  O'clock  in  the  lu^nu^,  -  fo-^  ^^j;,  ,,,  J^d^^t  ap-  ( 

a  very  considerable  riv-er,  *^"*^'"^^^1' "-^f 'f  ^^^^h    and  on  the  bank  we  , 
peared  to  be  three  or  four  miles ;y»«l«  ^ ^^ts  mouth    a                          ^^^^ 

Lw  a  large  to..,  one  part  ot  -  "^l^^f ^^^^^^^^^^  r"  ev,  and  running 

Quorra.     We  at  lirst  supposed  t  to  be  an  aim  o  'cdadi  up  it 

ftom  us ;  and  therefore  directed  our  coiirse  to  ^t^  ^^  ^  t  increased 
a  short  distance,  but  tinding  the  current  ^S'^'"^*  ";;"^:;^'  l^  ,,,,,  eom-  ' 
as  we  got  within  its  entrance  -^;-j::Pi;^:5tack  il  the  Niger, 
pellcd  to  give  up  the  attemirt,  ^"^^^"'^.,^^7,^,'^A^^^^  inouh-ies  concern- 
Lnsequently  we  V-^^^^onM^  ^^t^^n.^^^^^^^^^^  ^,.,  ,,  ^.^ho 
ing  it  the  first  convenient  opportunity,     but  w  e  conu 

Chadda.  ^     ,  ,  .„  i.n,1  white  rock,  in  the  foi-m 

u  At  10  A.  M.  we  passed  a  huge  ^'-\  -^?<^^  ^^^  ^  J  It  was  about 
of  aperfect  dome,  arising  fi^m  the  ^^^f^ltaZ^i  ^y^^t.^n^■^<-^ 
twenty  feet  high,  and  covered  with  an  ^^^^^^^^^  three  or  lour 
consequenceofwhich wenameditthebudKock    It     ;^  .^ 

:mles  distant  trom  Bocqua,  on  the  same  side  of  he  - «  •  1  ^^  ^^^^ 

on  the  western  side,  and  were  very  "eaily  lo^t  m  a  wj^i  ll  ^^  ^^^^,^^ 
.vith  the  utmost  difficulty  we  P--- ed  th^  c  «u,e  ho      ^^^^  ^  ^^ 

away,  and  dashed  -^^^:J;TTm^^o^..v  and  I  took  a 
lirst,  and,  finding  we  could  ^f^^'lZ^Jl,,  [,,  strength,  and  sue 
paddle,  and  animatuig  oui-  men,  wc  cxciita  a 


miles  I'urther  on, 
•oiii  which  issued 
•I'liiij,',  or  as  tho 
iilso  otl»er  towns 

ivoiJetl  them  all. 

lay  was  over,  tho 

ry  thing  was  still 

le  stream,  and  for 

iird  nothing  but  a 

tho  noiso  of  our 

leaped  out  of  tho 

illnge,  to  which  wo 
nd  lauglung,  in  tho 
to  the  opposite  side 
fancied  that  a  light 
or  some  such  thing, 
on  had  gone  down, 
1  the  way  as  plainly 
;,  that  we  were  sud- 
pite  of  all  our  exer- 
iillow  channel  which 
id  it  cost  two  hours' 

ilves  nearly  opposite 
tho  eastward ;  it  ap- 
and  on  the  bank  we 
iv,  and  the  other  the 
lat  rivev,  and  running 
We  proceeded  up  it 
and  that  it  increased 
;  tired,  we  were  com- 
b  back  into  the  Niger, 
ing  inquiries  concern- 
ncluded  this  to  be  the 


Into  rock,  in  the  form 
river.  It  was  about 
ritity  of  white  birds,  in 
t  is  about  three  or  four 
I  river.  We  passed  it 
I  a  whirlpool.  It  Avas 
0  from  bi'iug  carried 
y,  I  saw  the  danger  at 
,•  brother  and  I  took  a 
nir  strength,  and  sue- 


)^ 


A    CONFLICT    AVolDKD. 


olio 


I 


cpcdod  in  preventing  hor  from  turning  around.  Had  our  canoe  bcconu' 
unmanagtahlc,  we  shoiiM  inevitably  have  pcri-ihcd.  Shortly  atlcr,  seeing 
a  cDnvcnieiit  |ilaci'  for  Iiiniiing,  the  men  ln'ing  languid  aiid  wi'ary  w  itli 
hunger  and  ('.vertion,  we  halted  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  which  we 
iniagined  was  most  convenient  for  our  jiurpose. 

Totally  iniconscious  of  danger,  we  were  rcclir'ing  on  our  mats — 
for  we  too,  like  our  people,  were  wearieil  with  toil,  and  overcome  with 
drowsiness — when  in  about  twenty  minutes  after  our  men  had  retiirneil, 
one  of  them  shouted,  witii  a  loud  voice,  '  War  is  coming  !  < ),  war  is  com- 
ing I'  and  ran  toward  us  with  a  scream  of  terror,  telling  ns  that  the  na- 
tives were  liastening  to  attack  us.  We  started  uj)  at  this  unusual  evila- 
niation,  and,  looking  about  us,  we  beheld  a  large  party  of  men,  almost 
naked,  running  in  a  very  irregular  manner,  and  with  uncouth  gi'siures, 
toward  our  little  encampment.  They  were  all  variously  ;irmed  with 
muskets,  bows  and  arrows,  knives,  cutlasses,  barbs,  long  spears,  and 
other  instruments  of  dcstruetion  ;  and,  as  we  gazeil  upon  tliis  Itand  of 
wild  men,  with  their  ferocious  looks  and  liostile  appearance,  which  was 
not  a  little  heightened  on  observing  the  weajions  in  their  hands,  we  felt 
a  very  uneasy  khid  of  a  sensation,  and  wished  oursi'lves  safe  out  of  their 
liands. 

"  Or.c  of  the  natives,  wlio  proved  to  be  the  chief,  we  perceiveil  a  little 
in  advance  of  his  companions;  and,  throwing  down  our  jiistols,  which  we 
had  snatched  up  in  the  first  moment  of  surprise,  my  brother  and  I 
walked  very  composedly  and  unarmed  toward  him.  As  we  aiii)roached 
him,  we  made  all  the  signs  .ind  motions  we  could  with  our  iirms,  to  deter 
him  and  his  people  froi.i  firing  on  us.  His  quiver  was  dangling  at  his 
side,  his  bow  was  bent,  and  an  arrow,  wliich  was  pointed  at  our  breasts, 
already  trembled  on  the  string,  wlien  we  were  within  a  few  yards  of  his 
person.  This  was  a  liighly  critical  moment — the  next  might  be  our  List. 
lint  the  hand  of  Providence  averted  tho  blow ;  for  just  as  the  chief  was 
about  to  j)ull  tho  fatal  cord,  a  man  that  was  nearest  liini  rushed  ibrward 
and  stayed  his  arm.  At  that  instant  we  stood  before  him,  and  imme- 
diately held  forth  our  liands  ;  all  of  them  trembled  like  aspen  leaves  ;  the 
chief  looked  uj*  full  in  o)ir  ftces,  kneeling  on  the  ground — light  seemed 
to  flash  from  his  dark,  rolling  eyes — his  body  was  convulsed  all  over,  as 
though  he  were  enduring  the  utmost  torture,  and  with  a  timorous,  yet 
undefinablo  expi'ession  of  countenance,  in  which  all  tho  p.issions  of  our 
nature  were  strangely  blended,  he  drooped  his  head,  eagerly  grasjwd 
our  proffered  hands,  and  Ijurst  into  tears.  This  Avas  a  sign  of  friendship 
— harmony  followed,  and  war  and  bloodshed  Avere  thought  of  no  more. 

"  At  first  no  one  could  understand  us ;  but  an  old  man  made  liis 
appearance  shortly  after,  who  understood  the  Iloussa  language.  Ilim 
the  chief  employed  as  an  interpreter,  and  every  one  listened  Avith  anxiety 
to  the  Ibllowing  explanation  which  lie  g,ave  us :  '  A  f^jw  minutes  after 
you  first  landed,  one  of  my  people  came  to  me,  and  said  that  a  number 
of  strange  people  had  arrived  at  the  market-]>]ace.     I  sent  him  back  again 


m!!?^- 


Y-:' 


•w 


i 

I! 
i 

f 


I 


530 


KXrLORATIONS    OK   TIIK    NIOKB. 


fn  ,r.>t  .IS  lu-ir  to  vou  as  1.0  ci.tiM,  to  lu-!ir  wluit  you  intcn.lcMl  .loitiR.    Ho 

Z "ft       :".  'o  l"  nus  una  saUl  that  you  »,u.k..  in  a  lan«ua,o  wluch 

:     .'^1,;.  uu.U..stana.     N..t  doubting  that  it  was  ><-•  '"  -^-;    « 

t  ick  inv  vil!..-o  at  nij^ht,  and  oarry  ..fV  my  l.ooj.lo,  I  dos.r  d  theui  to 

.'         r.l.    ,iv..r  and  tlicre  was  no  further  necessity  for  travelmg  at    , 

„f  I  ,e  nver  m,e    ■^^/»1«^;=,  ,;;,,,  Jf  ,„irty  miles  after  passing 

A^  '"'otaen'e,  uX  "  ,.ot  a  .o.'n,  or  a  village,  or  even  a  single  h«^ 
Atta,'  obsents  i^anuti,  distance  our  canoe  passed 

WMmmi 

shores  crow>le.l  with  people  to  look  at  ti  cm 


■ 


IcikIcmI  (Iding.    llo 

n  laii<;iia<,'o  which 

Jjciur  intt'iilioii  to 

jl  JesircJ  tliem  to 

Ir  to  kill  you,  and 

siiifj  that  you  wt-ro 

)f  tlie  rivLT.     Hut 

|ur  white  laces,  we 

•8,  nor  move  hand 

our  hands  toward 


you  were 


(.'fill. 


Such  was  the  eilect 
he  knew  not  wliat 
lit  is  your  forgive- 

10  most  dancreroua 

iity  for  traveling  at 

m  to  the  sea.     IIo 

the  eastern  bank, 

d  probably  attempt 

ig,  and  about  noon 

I,  and  took  care  to 

shore.     Both  banks 

woods,  which  were 

miles  after  passing 

ar  even  a  single  liut, 

Be  our  canoe  passed 

nt  and  solitary ;  no 

lid  the  plashing  of 

wivs  not  heard,  nor 

'med  to  bo  entirely 

ibering  in    its  own 

•bazacca,  whore  thoy 
li  one  of  their  men 
accompany  him  the 
as  governor,  further 
i"om  Bonny,  Calabar, 
liief  preceding  thorn, 
that  they  found  the 
lie  afternoon,  as  they 
ative  in  an  English 
a  dozen  canoes  fol- 
respects  to  the  king 
^hief,  who  had  a  mild 
y  manner,  gave  them 


1 


KIND    RKCKPTION    AT    DAMUOOOO. 


}37 


a  hut  for  tlic  night,  and  when  they  were  annoyed  by  the  crowd  of  cu- 
rious natives  who  pressed  around  them,  told  them  they  might  kill  as 
many  as  they  pleased. 


ABOKKO. 

The  namo  of  the  town  was  Damuggoo,  Tlio  next  morning  the  chief, 
whoso  namo  was  Abokko,  paid  them  a  visit,  bringing  presents  of  jtalin- 
wine,  eggs,  bananas,  and  yams.  "lie  desired  us,"  says  Richard  Lauder, 
"  to  ask  for  any  thing  wo  might  want,  telling  us  that  wc  should  have 
every  thing  we  wished  that  the  town  could  afford.  He  told  us  that 
neither  he  nor  his  father  had  seen  a  white  man,  although  they  had  much 
wished  it,  and  that  our  presence  made  him  (juite  happy.  He  then  gave 
us  a  pressing  invitation  to  come  to  see  him,  which  we  readily  accepted. 
lie  seemed  to  bo  one  of  the  worthiest  fellows  whom  wo  liave  yet  met." 
Tlie  man  in  a  soldier's  jacket,  proved  to  be  a  messenger  from  the  King 
of  Bonny,  and  proposed  to  accompany  them  dowr\  the  river  to  the  terri- 
tories of  hia  master.  At  the  same  time  Abokko,  who  ordered  a  grand 
public  festival  next  day  in  lionor  of  their  arrival,  and  presented  them  with 
abullock,  offered  them  a  good  canoe,  with  .a  crew  of  his  own  people, 
provided  they  would  wait  until  the  latter  returned  from  the  market  at 
Bocqua.  He  assured  them  that  they  would  be  able  to  continue  their 
voyage  to  the  sea  in  this  manner,  with  perfect  safety. 

The  Landers  judged  it  prudent  to  accede  to  his  proposition,  and 
during  the  remainder  of  their  stay  were  very  well  treated.  The  only 
annoyance  they  suffered  was  from  the  curiosity  of  the  natives,  and  the 
procrastination  of  the  chief,  to  whom  time  was  no  object,  and  who,  with 
all  his  kindness,  delayed  their  departure  considerably.  Finally,  on  the 
evening  of  November  4th,  after  .a  stay  of  eight  days  at  Damuggoo,  they 
set  off  in  one  of  Abokko's  canoes,  in  addition  to  their  own,  acconijianied 
by  the  messenger  of  the  King  of  Bonny.    Tlicir  departure  was  attended 


r: 


538 


EXPLORATIONS    OF    THE    NIGER. 


by  reiiowcd  iestivitios.  "Tlie  paliii-wiiie  circulated  freely  in  the  bowls," 
says  liichard  J.aiuler,  "and the  natives  of  the  village,  who  witnessed  all 
oiir  proceedint^s  with  no  little  anxiety,  seemed  to  be  greatly  delighted 
at  seeing  their'ehief  and  the  priests  so  fiimiliar  Avith  white  men.  Mean- 
vhile  several  elei)hants'  tusks,  and  a  number  of  slaves  and  goats,  .vero 
put  into  the  canoe  as  presents  to  the  chief  of  Bonny.  A  fatted  goat  was 
given  us  as  a  parting  gift,  and  a  small  decanter  of  rum  was  thrust  m  my 
brother's  bosom  as  a  cordial  during  the  night." 

They  passed  rapidly  down  the  river  during  the  night,  and  m  the 
morning  reached  a  large  market-place  called  Kirree.     Richard  Lander 
was  iu^tho  Damuggoo  canoe,  considerably  in  advance  of  his  own,  in 
which  was  his  brother;  and  soon  after  passmg  Kirree,  was  astonished 
at  the  sight  of  fifty  large  canoes  coming  up  the  river,  in  some  of  winch 
the  English  flag  Avas  flying  from  a  bamboo  staff.   Each  canoe  had  a  four- 
poundei-  in  the'bow,  and  contained  forty  or  fifty  men,  all  of  whom  Avere 
armed  A\-ith  muskets.    Delighted  with  the  sight  of  the  flags,  he  ap- 
proached them  unhesitatingly.     The  foremost  canoe  instantly  ran  up  to 
his  own,  .and  in  the  tAvinkling  of  an  eye  every  thhig  was  taken  out  of  it, 
himself  and  his  men  violently  disarmed,  plundered  of  their  clothing,  and 
taken  prisoners.    The  boats  Avere  on  their  way  to  the  market  of  Kirree, 
whither  he  was  conducted.,  with  but  feint  hopes  of  recovering  any  of 
his  property,  or  even  of  preserving  his  life.     By  this  time  the  other 
canoe,  in  -vhieh  was  John  Lander,  was  observed  and  pursued.     The 
boatmen  attempted  to  escape,  but  Avere  soon  run  down  with  such  vio- 
lence that  the  canoe  was  capsized,  and  sunk.     John  Lander  was  thrown 
into  the  water,  and  sustained  himself  by  SAviraraing  until,  having  ap- 
proached one  of  the  hostile  canoes,  he  Avas  hauled  on  board  by  a  native. 
Meanwhile  the  greatest  tumult  and  confusion  prevaUed.  In  the  struggle 
to  get  possession  of  the  plunder,  several  of  the  native  canoes  were  upset 
and  their  crews  thrown  into  the  water.    The  Landers  were  conducted 
to  a  small  island  opposite  Kirree  ;  the  Damuggoo  people  and  the  King 
of  Bonny's  messenger  made  their  appearance  and  protested  violently 
against  the  outrage,  as  they  were  on  friendly  terms  with  the  people  of 
J^joo,  who  had  perpetrated  it ;  and  a  grand  palaver,  or  council,  Avas 

held. 

iVftor  a  time  a  search  was  commenced  in  the  canoes,  for  the  goods, 
some  of  which  were  found,  although  the  greater  part  of  them  were  at 
the  bottom  of  the  river.  "  We  were  now  invited  to  land,"  says  Richard 
Lander,  "  and  told  to  ^ook  at  our  goods,  in  order  to  see  if  they  were  all 
there.  To  my  great  satisfaction  I  immediately  recognized  the  box  con- 
taining our  books,  and  one  of  my  brother's  jo-irnals.  The  medicine- 
chest  was  by  its  side,  but  both  were  filled  Avitb  :  .iter.  A  large  carpet- 
bac,  containing  all  our  wearing  apparel,  was  lyuig  cut  open  and  deprived 
of  "Its  contents,  with  the  exception  of  a  shirt,  a  pair  of  trousers,  and  a 
waistcoat.  ]Many  vahiable  articles  Avhich  it  had  contained  were  gone. 
ThoAvhole  of  my  journal,  with  the  exception  of  a  note-book  Avith  re- 


y  in  llio  bowls," 
ho  witnessed  all 
;reatly  tlelighted 
ite  nioii.  Muan- 
aiul  goats,  .vere 
.  fatted  goat  was 
ivas  thrust  in  my 

ight,  and  in  the 
llichard  Lander 
3  of  his  <nvn,  in 
>,  was  astonished 
in  some  of  which 
canoe  had  a  four- 
ill  of  whom  were 
ihe  flags,  he  ap- 
stantly  ran  up  to 
is  taken  out  of  it, 
leir  clothing,  and 
narket  of  Kirree, 
ecovering  any  of 
!  time  the  other 
d  pursued.     The 
m  with  such  vio- 
nder  was  thrown 
until,  having  ap- 
•oard  by  a  native. 
[.  In  the  struggle 
janocs  were  upset 
s  were  conducted 
>plc  and  the  King 
rotestcd  violently 
ith  the  peoi)le  of 
',  or  council,  was 

cs,  for  the  goods, 
of  them  were  at 
nd,"  says  Richard 
!e  if  they  were  all 
lized  the  box  con- 
i.  The  medicine- 
.  A  largo  carpet- 
apen  and  deprived 
of  trousers,  and  a 
tained  were  gone, 
lote-book  with  re- 


TIIE    TRAVELERS    TAKEN    PRISONERS. 


C39 


marks  from  Rabba  to  this  place,  was  lost.  Four  guns,  one  of  which  had 
been  the  property  of  the  late  Mr.  Park,  four  cutlasses,  and  two  pistols, 
were  gone.  Nine  ekphants'  tusks,  the  finest  I  had  seen  in  the  country, 
which  had  been  given  me  by  the  Khigs  of  Wawa  ami  Boussa,  a  (luan- 
tity  of  ostrich-feathers,  some  handsome  leojiard-skins,  a  great  variety  of 
seeds,  all  our  buttons,  cowries,  and  needles,  which  wore  necessary  for  us 
to  purchase  provisions  with— all  were  missing,  and  said  to  have  been 
r,..nk  in  the  river.    The  two  boxes  and  the  bag  were  all  that  could  be 

fouji.d. 

"At  about  three  in  the  afternoon  we  were  ordered  to  return  to  the 
small  island  from  whence  we  had  come,  and  the  setting  of  the  sun  being 
the  signal  for  the  council  to  dissolve,  we  were  again  sent  for  to  the 
market.    The  people  had  been  engaged  in  deliberation  and  discussion 
during  the  whole  of  the  day,  and  with  throbbing  hcaits  wo  received 
their  resolution  in  nearly  the  following  words  :—' That  the  king  of  the 
country  being  absent,  they  had  taken  upon  themselves  to  consider  the 
occurrence  which  had  taken  place  in  the  morning,  and  to  give  judgment 
accordingly.     Those  of  our  things  which  had  been  saved  from  the  water 
should  be  restored  to  us,  and  the  person  that  had  first  commenced  the 
attack  on  my  brotht-,  should  lose  his  head,  as  a  just  retribution  for  his 
offense,  havuig  acted  without  his  chief's  permission ;  that  with  regard  to 
us,  we  must  consider  ourselves  as  prisontjrs,  and  consent  to  be  conducted 
on  the  following  morning  to  Obie,  King  of  the  Eboe  country,  before 
whom  we  should  undergo  an  cxammation,  and  whose  will  and  pleasure 
concerning  our  persons  would  then  be  explained.'     We  received  the  in- 
telligence with  feelings  of  rapture,  and  with  bursting  hearts  we  oifered 
up  thanks  to  our  Divine  Creator  for  his  signal  preservation  of  us 
throughout  this  disastrous  day." 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  they  left  Kirree  for  the  Eboe  country, 
accompanied  by  two  large  war  canoes.     On  the  morning  of  the  8th, 
after  a  voyage  of  two  days,  the  Niger  expanded  into  a  lake,  out  of 
which  it  flowed  in  three  separate  channels.     Their  conductors  took  the 
central  stream,  and  about  noon  they  reached  the  Eboe  town,  tlie  resi- 
dence of  King  Obie.     On  landing  they  Averc  hailed  m  broken  English 
by  a  large  negro  who  called  himself  King  Gun,  and  said  that  he  was 
one  of  the  chicts  of  the  Brass  country.     He  added,  to  their  great  joy, 
that  an  English  vessel,  called  the  Thomas,  of  Liverpool,  was  lying  in  the 
First  Brass  River,  two  or  three  days'  journey  below.     The  travelers 
were  conducted  to  a  hut,  and  soon  afterward  taken  before  King  Obie, 
whom  they  found  to  be  a  sprightly-looking  young  negro,  dressed  in  a 
scarlet  jacket  and  trowsers,  wath  strings  of  coral  and  bells  around  his 
wrists  and  ankles.    The  story  of  the  attack  and  capture  was  told  by  the 
Bonny  messenger  in  a  speech  of  two  hours  in  length,  after  wliich  some 
yams,  stewed  in  rancid  palm-oil,  were  given  to  the  travelers.     At  the 
end  of  two  days,  during  which  they  were  greatly  annoye.l  by  the  curios- 
ity of  the  natives,  who  allowed  them  no  rest,  either  by  day  or  night, 


r^ 


III  ir-riii-l  r-"-- »"'-"^'"'^*' 


540 


EXPLORATIONS   OP   TUB    NIGER. 


they  received  the  decision  of  King  Obic.  It  was  to  the  eftcct  that,  as 
circuniHtiinces  had  thrown  them  into  his  hands,  he  intended  to  keep  them 
until  the  master  of  some  English  vessel  would  bo  willing  to  ransom 
them  for  the  price  of  twenty  slaves.  They  could  not  proceed  to  Bonny, 
because  the  branch  of  the  Niger  leading  to  that  country  was  dried  up, 
and  the  only  chaimel  navigable  from  Eboe  to  the  sea,  was  that  through 
the  dominions  of  the  King  of  Brass. 

Shortly  afterward  they  noticed  that  earnest  conferences  were  held 
between  King  Obie  and  King  Boy,  the  son  of  the  old  King  of  Brass, 
and  their  suspense  was  soon  relieved  by  the  latter,  who  stated  that  he 
hud  arranged  to  pay  King  Obic  their  ransom,  provided  they  would  give 
him  an  order  on  Captain  Lake,  of  the  brig  Thomas,  for  their  value  m 
EiK^ish  "oods,  with  a  cask  of  rum  and  some  additional  articles,    lie 
a<-r°  ed  to  convey  them  on  board  the  vessel,  as  soon  as  the  captain  had 
paid  him  the  amount  of  the  order.    They  were  overjoyed  at  Mns  pros- 
pect of  release  and  immediately  wrote  a  request  to  Captain  Lake,  not 
doubting  but  that  he  would  immediately  ransom  them.    "Fcarnig," 
savs  Richard  Lander,  "that  something  might  yet  occur  to  detam  us, 
and  ultimately  change  the  king's  resolution  altogether,  we  were  most 
ca.-er  to  get  out  of  the  reach  of  him  and  his  people  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible    Therefore  we  lost  not  a  moment,  but  hastened  to  our  lodgings, 
.ind  having  sent  our  people  on  board  Boy's  canoe,  we  hurried  after  them 
immedi-itely,  and  embarked  iit  three  in  the  afternoon,  November  11th. 
And  thus  terminated  four  of  the  most  wretched  days  of  our  exist- 

They  sailed  down  the  main  branch  of  the  Niger  for  three  days  and 
one  ni<^ht.    The  shores  were  thickly  inhabited,  and  the  villages  sur- 
rounded with  plantations  of  yams,  bananas,  and  other  kinds  of  fruit 
and  vegetables.    As  they  approached  the  sea,  however,  the  shores  be- 
came low  and  swampy,  and  lined  with  a  dense  growth  of  mangrove. 
The  Landers  were  greatly  cramped  and  incommoded  in  King  Boy's 
canoe,  and  were  but  scantily  supplied  with  food.    On  the  third  day  they 
remarked  with  joy  the  appearance  of  tide-water,  and  at  noon,  on  the 
fourth,  reached  Brass  Town,  only  sixty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Ni<-or,  which,  they  were  infomed,  was  here  called  the  River  Nun     On 
landing,  they  were  surprised  to  see  a  white  man,  who  proved  to  be  the 
captain  of  a  Spanish  slaver  lying  in  the  Brass  River.    The  next  day  it 
was  decided  by  King  Boy,  and  his  father,  King  Forday,  that  the  fomer 
should  go  with  Richard  Lander  to  the  English  vessel,  leaving  his  brother 
John  as  a  security  for  the  amount  of  ransom  to  be  paid.    The  travelers 
now  looked  upon  their  journey  as  completed,  and  considered  that  all 
their  trials  and  difficulties  were  at  an  end. 

The  canoe  with  Lander  and  King  Boy  reached  the  Nun,  or  First 
Brass  River,  early  on  the  morning  of  November  1 8th.  "  About  a  quar- 
ter  of  an  hour  after  wo  had  entered  the  River  Nun,"  says  Lander,  "  we 
descried,  at  a  distance  before  us,  two  vessels  lying  at  anchor.    The  emo- 


10  cftcct  that,  as 
'd  to  keep  them 

llinir  to  ransom  i 

•ceed  to  Bonny,  j 

T  Avaa  dried  up,  I 

IS  that  through  j 

nces  were  held     | 
King  of  Brass,     i 

0  stated  that  he  \ 
they  would  give  j 
•r  their  \alue  in  ! 
al  articles.  He  } 
the  captain  had  j 
yed  at  ^his  pros- 
iptain  Lake,  not  j 
im.  "  Fearing," 
jur  to  detain  us, 

•,  we  were  moat 
IS  quickly  as  pos- 
to  our  lodgings, 
iirricd  after  thera 
November  11th. 
lys  of  our  exist- 

)r  three  days  and 
the  villages  sur- 
er kinds  of  fruit 
r,  the  shores  be- 
v\h.  of  mangrove. 

1  in  King  Boy's 
he  third  day  they 

at  noon,  on  the 
he  mouth  of  the 
River  Nnn.  On 
proved  to  be  the 

The  next  day  it 
y,  that  the  fonner 
}aving  his  brother 
d.  The  travelers 
)nsidcrcd  that  all 

he  Nun,  or  First 

"  About  a  quar- 

!ays  Lander,  "  we 

inchor.    The  emo- 


MEETINO    WITH    THE    ENGLISU    CAPTAIN. 


541 


tions  of  delight  which  the  sight  of  them  occasioned  are  quite  beyond  my 
powers  of  description.  The  nearest  to  m  was  a  schooner,  a  Spanish 
slave-vessel,  whose  captain  we  had  seen  at  Brass  town.  Our  canoe  wax 
quickly  by  her  side,  and  I  went  on  board.  The  captain  received  me  very 
kindly,  and  invited  me  to  take  some  spirits  and  water  with  him. 

"  We  now  directed  our  course  to  the  English  brig,  which  w.as  lying 
about  three  hundred  yards  lower  down  the  river.  Having  reached  her 
with  feelings  of  delight  mingled  with  doubt,  I  went  on  board.  Here  I 
found  every  thing  in  as  sad  a  condition  as  I  had  in  the  schooner ;  four 
of  the  crew  had  just  died  of  fever;  four  more,  which  c(iini)leted  the 
whole,  were  lying  sick  in  their  hammocks,  and  the  captain  ajipeared  to 
be  in  the  very  last  stage  of  illness.  He  had  recovered  from  a  severe  at- 
tack of  fever,  and  had  suifered  a  relapse  in  consequence  of  having  ex- 
posed himself  too  soon,  which  had  nearly  been  fatal  to  him.  I  now- 
stated  to  him  who  I  was,  explained  my  situation  to  him  as  fully  as  I 
could,  and  had  my  instructions  read  to  him  by  one  of  his  own  people, 
that  he  might  see  I  was  not  imposing  on  him.  I  then  requested  that 
he  would  redeem  ns  by  paying  what  had  been  demanded  by  King  Boy, 
and  assured  him  that  whatever  he  might  give  to  him  on  our  account 
would  certainly  be  repaid  him  by  the  British  government.  To  my  utter 
surprise  and  consternation,  he  flatly  refused  to  give  a  single  thing,  and, 
ill  and  weak  as  he  was,  made  use  of  the  most  offensive  and  shameful 
oaths  I  ever  heard." 

Lander,  disappointed  and  mortified  beyond  expression,  then  requested 
King  Boy  to  take  him  to  Bonny,  where  there  were  probably  other  En- 
glish vessels ;  but  the  latter  declared  that  if  one  captain  would  not  pay, 
another  would  also  refuse.  Finally,  on  Lander's  representing  to  the 
captain  that  some  of  his  men  would  be  useful  to  assist  in  working  the 
vessel,  the  latter  requested  King  Boy  to  go  back  and  bring  John  Lander 
and  the  boatmen,  declaring  that  nothing  would  bo  paid  mitil  they  were 
on  board.  The  captain  then  added  that  if  they  were  not  brought  within 
three  days,  ho  would  sail  without  them.  The  intervening  time  Avas 
passed  by  Lander  in  great  anxiety  and  distress,  and  on  the  evening  of 
the  third  day  the  brutal  captain  declared  that  he  would  put  to  sea  the 
next  morning.  Fortunately  there  was  such  a  swell  on  the  bar  that  ho 
was  afraid  to  cross,  as  he  had  refused  to  pay  the  native  pilot  who  had 
brought  him  in,  and  the  place  was  very  dangerous  for  large  vessels. 
That  evening  Richard  Lander  saw  some  canoes  coming  down  the  ri\'cr, 
and  early  in  the  morning  King  Boy  brought  his  brother  on  board,  with 
their  servants  and  boatmen. 

Captain  Lake  received  John  Lander  civilly,  but  immediately  expressed 
his  determination  to  dismiss  King  Boy  without  giving  him  a  single  ar- 
ticle, and  then  make  the  best  of  his  way  out  of  the  river.  Tlie  travelers 
had  three  silver  bracelets  and  some  trinkets  left  among  their  scanty  bag- 
gage, which  they  gave  to  Boy,  who  treated  them  with  the  greatest  in- 
dignation and  contempt.     Richard  Lander  thus  describes  the  scene 


542 


EXPLORATIONS    OP   THE    NIGER. 


>vhicli  foUowca :  "  Boy  now  ventured  to  approaoli  Captain  Lake  on  tho 

o.nrter-clock,  an.l,  witli  an  anxious,  potitionin.o;  countonanco,  a-sked  lor 

(ho  -oods  xvhid.  had  been  promised  hini.     Prepared  for  the  desperate. 

iranie  he  was  ahout  to  plav,  it  was  the  object  of  Lake  to  -am  as  much 

time  as  riossible,  that  he  mi-ht  -ft  his  vessel  under  way  before  he  came 

to  an  one.,  rupture.    Therefore  he  pretended  to  be  busy  in  wnt.nc:,  and 

desired  P.ov  to  wait  a  moment.     Hecoming  iinpatient  witli   delay,  Boy 

repeated  hi's  demand  a  second  and  a  third  time,  '  Give  mo  my  bars.'- 

'  I  NO  wii  I  "  '^'lid  Lake,  in  a  voice  of  thunder,  which  one  could  hardly 

have  expected  from  so  e.naciatcd  a  frame  as  his.     '  I  no  will  I  tell  you ; 

I  won't  -ivc  vo.i  a  flint.'     Terrified  by  the  demeanor  of  Lake,  and  the 

threats  and  oaths  he  made  use  of,  poor  King  Boy  suddenly  retreated, 

and  seeing  men  going  aloft  to  loosen  the  sails,  apprehensive  of  bemg 

carried  olf  t..  sea,  he  quickly  disappeared  from  the   deck  of  the  brig, 

and  was  soon  observed  making  his  way  on  shore  in  his  canoe,  with  the 

rest  of  his  people  ;  this  was  the  last  we  saw  of  him."    _ 

It  was  ibur  days  before  the  brig  succeeded  in  getting  over  the  bar, 
and  after  all  the  perils  through  which  they  had  passed,  the  intrepid  trav- 
elers narrowly  escaped  a  watery  grave.     The  vessel  twice  dritted  to  the 
edce  of  the  breakers,  and  at  one  time  there  seemed  no  hope  ot  her  ei^ 
cane      Fu.allv,  at  noon  on  the  27th,  they  reached  the  open  sea  and 
sailed  for  Fen.ando  Po,  where  they  arrived  on  the   1st  of  December. 
The  Landers  were  verv  kindly  received  by  Governor  Becroft  who  sup- 
rliod  ail  their  wants,  knd  treated  them  with  the  greatest  hospitality. 
After  remaining  on  the  island  until  the  20th  of  January,  1831,  waiting 
iu  vain  for  a  chance  of  getting  to  England,  they  took  passage  to  Rio 
Janeiro  i.i  the  ship  Caernarvon.     A  fever  broke  out  on  board  soon  after 
they  sailed  ;  several  of  the  crew  died,  and  for  many  days  the  Landers 
and  three  black  men  were  the  only  persons  strong  enough  to  manage 
the  ship  and  attend  to  the  sick.    They  did  not  reach  llio  Janeiro  until 
the  16th  of  March. 

The  admiral  of  the  British  squadron  on  the  coast  of  Brazil  imme- 
diately gave  them  a  passage  to  England  on  board  of  a  transport  ship, 
which  sailed  for  Portsmouth  on  the  20th.  "  On  the  9th  of  June  "  says 
Richard  Lander,  "  we  arrived  at  Portsmouth,  and  gladly  landed,  with 
hearts  full  of  gratitude  for  all  our  deliverances." 

"  Thus  "  remarks  Captain  Allen,  "the  solution  of  tho  problem  which 
has  excited  the  interest  of  so  many  ages,  has  been  accomplished  by  the 
most  modest  of  means,  while  many  costly  and  more  imposing  ""dertak- 
ings  have  failed.  A  solitary  pedestrian  discovered  the  long-hidden 
Ni<'er  in  its  course  through  hitherto  almost  unheard-of  countries  ;  and 
two  unpretending  young  men,  committing  themselves  m  a  frail  bark  to 
its  mysterious  bosom,  were  borne  by  it  through  unknown  regions,  a  di^ 
tance  of  more  than  six  hundred  mUes,  to  its  termination  m  the  vast  and 
imiltitudinous  ocean." 


STEAMEUS    ON    THE    NIGER. 


543 


itain  Lake  on  the 
enanco,  asked  for 
for  the  desperate 

to  cain  as  much 
ly  before  he  came 
sy  ill  writing,  and 
;  with  delay,  Boy 
e  rac  my  bars.' — 

one  could  hardly 
no  will,  I  tell  you ; 

of  Lake,  and  the 
nddenly  retreated, 
rehensive  of  being 

deck  of  the  brig, 
lis  canoe,  with  the 

ting  over  the  bar, 
I,  the  intrepid  trav- 
wice  drifted  to  the 
no  hope  of  her  es- 
thc  open  sea  and 
"1st  of  December. 
Beoroft,  who  sup- 
;rcatest  hospitality, 
uary,  1831,  Malting 
ok  passage  to  Rio 
on  board  soon  after 
'  days  the  Landers 
enough  to  manage 
I  liio  Janeiro  until 

jst  of  Brazil  imme- 

af  a  transport  ship, 

9th  of  June,"  says 

gladly  landed,  with 

f  the  problem  which 
iccoraplished  by  the 
imposing  undertak- 
ed  the  long-hidden 
d-of  countries  ;  and 
es  in  a  frail  bark  to 
;nown  regions,  a  dis- 
,tion  in  the  vast  and 


LAIRD 


AND    OLDFIELD'S    VOYAGES    ON    THE    NIGER. 


On  the  return  of  the  Landers,  from  their  remarkable  and  successful 
discovery  of  the  outlet  of  the  Niger,  they  gave  such  a  flourishing  ac- 
count of  the  (piantity  of  ivory  to  be  found  on  its  banks,  that  some  eiit.-r- 
prising  merchants  of  Liverpool— actuated  by  the  spirit  of  legitimate 
trade,%vliich  had  assumed  in  that  city  the  excitement  of  the  forim-r 
traffic  in  human  beings— fitted  out  an  expedition  for  the  purj.oso  of  a>!- 
certaining  and  opening  out  the  resources  of  the  country. 

This  mercantile  expedition  was  composet'  of  one  small  brig,  to  be 
stationed  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  to  receive  the  expected  cargo  of 
ivory,  and  two  steamers;  the  smaller  of  which— the  first  iron  vessel  that 
had  crossed  the  Atlantic— was  built  by  Mr.  Macgregor  Laird,  whose 
family  were  large  subscribers  to  the  expedition,  and  who  liimselt  bore  a 
considerable  share  in  the  conduct  of  it,  though  the  nominal  command 
was  held  by  Richard  Lauder,  to  Avhom  it  had  been  ofiVsred,  previous  to 
the  formation  of  the  company,  and  on  whom  devolved  the  duty  of  select- 
ing the  articles  of  trade.  The  large  steamer  was  named  the  Qnorm 
(Niger),  and  contained  a  crew  of  twenty-six  men,  all  told ;  the  other 
was  called  the  Alburkah  (Blessing),  and  carried  fourteen  men. 

The  expedition  sailed  from  Milford  Haven  on  the  29th  of  July,  18^,2, 
and  after  touching  at  Capo  Coast  Castle,  where  Lander  re-engaged  Taa- 
coe,  Jowdie,  and  others  of  his  former  men,  reached  the  river  Nun,  on 
the' 16th  of  October.    Here  Captain  Harries  of  the  Quorra  and  one  of 
the  engineers  died  of  fever,  which  had  already  made  its  appearance  on 
board.    There  was  a  Liverpool  trader  lying  in  the  Brass  River,  the 
captain  of  which  had  purchased  from  King  Boy,  Richard  Lander's  jour- 
nal of  his  voyage  down  the  Niger,  which  had  been  lost  during  the  attack 
on  himself  and  his  brother  at  Kirree.    After  an  interview  with  King 
Boy  and  King  Forday,  they  furnished  a  pilot  named  Louis,  and  recom- 
mended them  to  take  a  certain  channel,  which  they  stated  was  the  best 
for  the  steamers.     The  pilot,  however,  privately  informed  Mr.  Laird 
that  the  chiefs  wished  to  run  the  vessels  aground,  and  that  the  deepest 
channel  was  a  very  narrow  creek,  which  he  pointed  out.     Lander,  hav- 
ing ascended  this  creek  in  a  small  boat  for  the  purpose  of  sounding, 
found  sufficient  water,  and  on  the  28th  the  steamers  set  out,  the  Albur- 
kah taking  the  lead.    After  passing  thirteen  other  anns  of  the  Niger, 
they  safely  reached  the  main  stream  in  the  evening,  having  made  forty- 
five  miles. 

On  the  evening  o'.'  November  1st,  as  they  were  slowly  ascending  the 
river,  Lander  sent  a  note  to  Mr.  Laird,  stating  that  he  had  received  in- 
formation that  the  llboes  intended  attacking  the  steamers.  While  the 
guns  were  being  got  in  readiness  on  board  the  Qiiorra,  "  wc  heard  the 
report  of  several  sho  s,"  says  Mr.  Laird,  "and  on  going  on  deck  ob- 
served the  whole  bush  on  our  left,  which  was  the  right  bank  of  the  river 


a 


1^ 


JJ44  KXPLORATIONS    OF    TlIK    NIGKR. 

.  .  v.r.l,  from  u>»,  in  n  l.lazc  of  innskotry,  Avl.ich  tlic  Al- 
ana  .Lout  seventy  y^rds  i  om  am  ^^^^^  ^^.^^  ^^^  ^^.^^^  ^^.^^^  ^^ 

lud-ah  yy^^rctnvnuvr.  J^  >  •     •';^^;  ^^.^  .,,„  ^o  go  between  Imu  and  the 
clroi.  .Iowa  the  nver ;  b  t  on  my  ottc  m         g  ^^. 

fire  ho  Hent  Loni«,  the  Kboc  P  1"5' »"  ;''^.  f  ;^  •  J^i„    i^i^l-sbot  abreast  of 

^^^••-  -^^'^  r'  '"Xd  ^r  dVt'o    o<^^^^^^^^  -^  .elf-ross.,-ion  of     j 
the  town.    I  was  much  a"^";'";';'^     ,,     jj  j  .  ^^  j  ^^Id  him,  if  he  ran 
thi.  pilot,     llo  could  Bpc-ak  t«l^\*^^« Ji'  .;,,;"i  How  his  brains  out. 

The  fellow  laugh     ,  ^^^^^'^^  ^,^^,  ,,,,  ^,,„ia  play  at  that  game, 
end  of  two  pis  o^,  ^  g-t^^  »-        ^^^^^.^^  ^^  .^^  ,,,„d  ,nd  eani^ter,  and 

saw  one)  had  two  swivels.     ^^^  ««3  ^  twenty-four-pound  swivel ; 
«i.  O'clock  with  four  ^o^-V^-^ll^^^,'^:  the  -d-waUsorthe  huts 
but  finding  that  we  ™'^f."°,,XrMrLL«ler  hailed  us,  and  we  agreed 
although  we  had  silenced  tho  hrmg,  f J^'  ^"^^^  Accordingly  tho 

to  land  and  burn  the  town  as  -  cxamplc^^^^^^^^^^  rest.^^  .^  ^^^  ^^^^^^  ,^, 
gig  under  my  command  l^d  tho  way ,       P  ^^^^^^  ^.^g,„. 

fowed,  and  also  tho  launch  -^^^^^^^'u' a  fire  of  musketry  over  our 

cers,  and  Dr.  Bnggs  ^'^^'^.^f  ^^''^^^ut  L  loss  of  a  man,  and  they  af- 
heads."    This  was  accomphshed,  ^^  ithout  the  oss  ^^^^^^^ 

terward  learned  that  three  naives  had  been  M^^^^  ^^  ^^^ 

The  chiefs  of  the  villages  ^^^JJ^^JJt'd  Tt  tLr  vlcto^ 
gratulate  them,  and  appeared  h^^^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^^,  ^,  ,,         ,k 

On  the  morning  of  ^''^ ";^;;'"^^^  ^^^c  preparations  for  vimtmg 
which  leads  to  the  town  of  E»oe,  and  m        f    i  interview: 

King  Obic.    Mr.  Laird  gives  the  fo"«^"^gjr™^  j^  ^i,  coeked-hat 
Mir.  Lander  in  ^8-^^^""^^^^;   d^^^^^^^^^^  uniform,  and 

that  almost  reached  the  g--°«Y;A;  van  Id  attracted  so  much  of  the 
Lieutenant  Allen  in  his  owii,  led  ^J^^  V*"^^^^^^^  regretted  that  we 

^     natives'  attention  that  Dr.  «"Sf  ^^^^,7^  a  ™'t«re  fr^      England, 
had  not  visited  Monmoutli-strcet  ^^t"-^ J^"^  J^  „,„  ^1,0  had  accom- 

'     Preceded  by  old  Pascoe,  J^^^'^^^'.^^Jj^'Ja  who  were  now  returning 
panied  Mr.  Lander  on  his  ^onaorjou^n^l^  and  wl^  .„  ^^i^,„, 

n  triumph  to  the  scene  of  their  ^""^^  «^^^^^^  ^[^^^^    ^,^,^,^  accom- 
jackets  and  military  caps  blowing  trur^^^^^^^  J  ,^^^  i„ 

Janied  by  King  Boy  and  «^°f /^J^  !m  the  narrow  creek  more  like 
Ihcir  discordant  noises,  ^;o  advanced  ^^P  t^«  J"  ^^  ^^,,,  three 

n^erry-andrews  th-/-f  ^  P^:to;t "t  d^s  I  ever  experienced,  we 
quarters  of  a  mile,  m  one  o^  th«  ^^^^^^^      Y  ^^^^^^^^^  „f 


.T.'-'^-^'i 


y,  wliich  tho  At- 
he  was  goiiJg  to 
on  him  uiul  tho 
ediiitcly  got  un- 
il-shot  abreast  of 
self-poss'.ission  of 
d  liun,  if  he  ran 
>\v  his  brains  out. 
wod  me  the  butt- 
atthat  game.  I 
and  canister,  and 

e. 

I  the  bush  recora- 
iea  (for  we  hardly 
ire  on  the  town  at 
bur-pound  swivel; 
-walls  or  the  huts, 
U8,  and  we  agreed 
Accordingly  tho 
er  in  the  cutter  fol- 
i  two  mates,  cngin- 
muskctry  over  our 
a  man,  and  they  af- 
id  several  wounded, 
day,  came  to  con- 
air  victory, 
nouth  of  the  creek 
arations  for  visiting 
it  of  the  interview : 
■r  in  his  cocked-hat 
lonel's  uniform,  and 
Bted  so  much  of  the 
Bt  regretted  that  we 
ture  from  England, 
ttcn  who  had  accom- 
were  now  returning 
dressed  in  soldiers* 
?ating  drums,  accom- 
i  emulating  them  in 
row  creek  more  like 
row  of  about  three 
jver  experienced,  we 
t  assemblage  of  peo- 
morc  than  half  a  mile 
i  people  armed  vnih 
and  knives  fastened 


MORTALITY   ON    BOARD. 


545 


on  tho  ends  of  poles.  After  waiting  about  ten  minutes,  a  side-door 
opened,  and  in  rushed  Obie,  a  tall  man  with  a  pleasing  countenance, 
dressed  in  scarlet  cloth.  Poor  Jordan  was  the  first  ho  saw,  and  rushing 
upon  him  at  onco  he  gave  him  a  most  fraternal  hug;  then  shaking 
hands  with  Lander  and  myself  ho  took  his  seat  on  tho  throne,  placing 
us  on  each  side  of  him." 

King  Ohio  afterward  visited  Lander  on  board  of  tho  AUmrkah, 
There  he  was  received  with  a  salute.  During  the  visit  of  tho  steamers 
the  members  of  the  expedition  were  treated  with  great  kindness  by  tho 
king  and  the  natives,  but  they  a^'complished  very  little  in  tho  way  of 
trade.  Tho  principal  article  to  be  had  was  palm-oil,  and  no  ivory  was 
to  be  seen.  On  tho  evening  of  the  9th  they  resumed  their  voyage,  and 
proceeded  slowly  up  tho  river,  being  obliged  to  stop  frequently  for  tho 
purpose  of  cutting  wood.  A  violent  fever  broke  out  on  board  of  tho 
Quorra^  and  by  the  13th,  there  were  only  two  men  on  board  capable  of 
doing  duty.  Captain  Hill  of  the  AUmrkah  took  command  of  the  vessel, 
but  was  soon  attacked  and  obliged  to  return.  The  mortality  was  so 
great  that  by  the  24th  the  Quorra  had  lost  thirteen  men,  and  tho  Al- 
burkah  two.  Mr.  Laird  says :  "  Mr.  Lander's  behavior  during  our  sick- 
ness did  him  infinite  credit.  Ho  was  indefatigable  in  his  attention  to 
the  sick,  and  bled  and  blistered  the  men  as  if  he  had  been  a  regular 
licentiate.  The  application  of  a  blister  over  the  head  seemed  to  givo 
the  greatest  relief,  and  in  my  own  case  and  that  of  Dr.  Briggs  was,  un- 
der Providence,  the  means  of  saving  us.  After  this  is  done,  I  do  not 
think  that  medical  skill  can  go  further — the  question  becomes  a  pitched 
battle  between  the  fever  and  the  constitution  of  the  person  attacked 
with  it ;  and  medicine,  after  the  first  necessary  emetics  and  purgatives, 
does  more  harm  than  good." 

On  the  27th  they  reached  the  large  town  of  Attah,  near  the  placo 
where  the  Niger  passes  the  range  of  the  Kong  Mountains,  and  the  fever 
began  to  abate.  At  Damuggoo,  they  had  obtained  sixteen  elephants* 
teeth  from  the  brother  of  Abokko,  who  had  been  so  kind  to  the  brothers 
Lander,  and  they  procured  a  few  more  from  the  King  of  Attah,  bat 
only  after  making  him  large  presents.  They  were  ready  to  start  on  the 
5th  of  December,  but  on  going  ashore  to  take  leave  of  the  king,  were 
unable  to  see  him,  and  decided  to  proceed  up  the  river  next  morning. 
"  During  the  day,"  says  the  narrative,  "  some  ceremonies  were  performed 
ahead  of  the  vessels  in  the  river  to  prevent  our  passing  upward,  his 
majesty  of  Attah  being  very  desirous  that  we  should  not  proceed  further 
up  the  river.  These  ceremonies  were  performed  by  men  in  canoes,  fim- 
tastically  dressed.  They  stood  up  and  made  a  variety  of  expressive 
gestures,  and  concluded  their  proceedings  by  throwing  into  the  river 
what  appeared  to  me  to  be  alligator's  flesh.  As  the  vessels  gathered 
way,  and  passed  the  place  where  the  fetish  or  ceremony  was  made,  the 
natives,  who  were  crowded  on  the  hill  on  which  the  town  stands,  testi- 
fied their  astonishment  by  a  general  yell."    On  the  21st,  the  vessels 

35 


546 


EXPLORATIONS   OF    THE   NIGER. 


„f  "ik,  oUta  Niger,  from  EWe  '" ''"  J-^'""  ^  *    '^  J^^^^^^^^^^ 
,,  /^    I      :.>«  vi.Mo  \vj>  oinerccd  from  a  oomparaiiveiy  wmuuih  « 

for«l«,  .1.0  samaica  of  wl,.ch  tetrom-J  A«  ^ •  7    Tho  bant,  were  but 

.be  ™ngh,a.io„,  into  a  wide  ""^  'PI^^^^  Td  Je„.i-^^ 

.binly  wooded,  and  u,,™„y,a«^^^^^^^  ._,  ,,^  ,^^^„„,„, 

tbose  on  .bo  western  bank  '""  ,7.  ^^^f^J'ffty  „r  five  hundred 

neither  appeared  .0  '-^^^^  "L^tuleof  thjse  bill,,  and  fron; 

I      bt.pea;  ':  :.*^  ro'ck  **w!  found  being  pnnoipai.y  granite  and 

!     *LSrwe  pronouneod  .ben,  of  P«.lvo  Jor".a«cu.  ^^ 

i  ..rising  'l-^'*: 'SXSwthr.be  bank.  of'.be 

Bfty  mile.,  wo  reaehed  "i"  1'°"=  °f°"      J,  ^^,,^  ,i,ou«n.d  fee..    As 

river  rise  »  an  olovaUon  "f  ^"f  ^^"^Xrinoipally  of  grani.e,  and 
fara8woeonldasoorta.n,*ey»reeomp         1    ^   ;„  „„„     ^  „Meh  the 

!:;::erpr,:»erS"'firnPed  >.;^w.d.  buttboehanne, 

of.bo'river  does  no.  ocoupy  -™ 'XTdded  -i* twn  and  villages. 

"  Ho.h  banks  of  .be  nver  are  *■«?  f  ™r"  „a ,  „„<!  between 

I     1  eould  eonnt  seven  from  the  plaeo  yk^'^J^'^J'^;"  ,,„  ^^  ^  forty, 

of  the  banks.    It  may  be  rather  below  h^^^^^^^ 
■  "  Tlie  ceneral  character  of  the  people  is  mucn  supen 

\  i„hab^::tf  ^f  the  s.vampy  coantry  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
are  shrewd,  intelligent,  and  qmck  I'^^^^^^'^'^'^.'Z.r^j  of  life  and 
positions,  and  more  peaceable  m  their  habits,     ine  7 


LAIRD'S    VISIT   TO    FUNDA. 


547 


irliere  the  Quarra  \ 
a  sand-bank,  and  1 
smselvcs  to  wait 

y  and  inhabitants  , 
with  the  Chadda:  , 
winding  and  nar-  I 
»\vn  with  immense 
the  extent  baffled  j 
lie  banks  were  but  j 
nsively  cultivated,     j 

in  its  serpentine 
I  inhabitants  on  its 
e  foimd  the  better 
nstcad  of  the  com- 
Uy  presented  that 
and  that  has  been 
igh  elevated  fifteen 
inued  flat  until  we 
From  thence  the 
evation  of  from  two 
nge  of  hills  on  each     | 
and  bold  character ; 
rhest  elevation,  but    | 
ifty  or  five  hundred 
these  hills,  and  from    ! 
ncipally  granite  and    1 

ion.  j 

ttends  from  forty  to  j 
on  the  banks  of  the  j 
>  thousand  feet.  As  j 
pally  of  granite,  and  | 
m  through  which  the 
iride,  but  the  channel 
red. 

ith  town  and  villages, 
rroxmd ;  and  between 
lot  be  less  than  forty, 
e  principal  towns  are 
tants  at  one  thousand 
ly  give  the  population 

superior  to  that  of  the 
and  the  coast.  They 
on,  milder  in  their  dis- 
he  security  of  life  and 


property  is  evidently  greater  among  thom  ;  though  it  is  still  sufficiontly 
precarious  to  prevent  the  inhabitants  from  living  in  isolated  situations, 
nor  will  any  of  them  venture  upon  the  river  after  sunset  in  small  canoes. 
Agriculture  is  extensively  followed,  and  Indian  corn  and  other  grain  are 
raised  with  little  labor  and  less  skill  on  the  part  of  the  cultivators." 

It  was  determined  to  build  a  hut  on  the  hill  nt  the  junction,  and  open 
a  market  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  natives.  The  arrangements 
were  completed  on  the  29th  of  January,  183.3,  but  the  result  was  not 
what  had  been  expected.  Very  little  ivory  was  brought  in  ;  the  indigo 
was  so  badly  prepared  as  to  be  valueless,  and  the  otlier  articUs  offered 
would  scarcely  pay  the  cost  of  transport.ition.  To  .add  to  their  misfor- 
tunes, fever  broke  out  again ;  Mr.  Laird  was  several  times  on  the  verge 
of  the  grave ;  Dr.  Briggs  died  on  the  28th  of  February,  and  i\Ir.  Lander, 
who  had  been  prevented  from  reaching  IJabba  and  lloussa,  in  the  Albur- 
kah,  on  account  of  the  shallowness  of  the  water,  returned  ill,  with  the 
loss  of  some  of  his  men.  News  having  reached  the  expedition  th.at  the 
King  of  Funda  (the  town  which  Lander  had  .attempted  to  reach,  on  his 
return  from  Sackatoo  to  Badagry)  desired  some  of  the  white  men  to 
visit  him,  Mr.  Laird  determined  to  proceed  thither,  and  Lander  promised 
to  follow  him,  as  soon  as  he  should  be  strong  enough. 

Toward  the  end  of  March,  Mr.  Laird  set  out,  and  after  a  voyage  of 
seven  days  up  the  Chadda,  in  the  QHorra''s  boat,  reached  the  io\m  of 
Yimmaha,  thirty  miles  from  Funda.  As  he  was  too  ill  to  travel  on 
horseback,  he  sent  his  goods  and  men  by  hand,  and  continued  his  way 
up  the  river  to  a  village  about  nine  miles  from  the  capital,  whither  he 
was  carried  in  a  hammock.  The  next  morning  he  visited  the  king,  who 
was  a  sinister-looking  person,  dressed  in  robes  of  silk  and  velvet.  The 
hut  to  which  Mr.  Laird  was  conducted,  was  so  dirty  and  small  that  he 
set  out  to  hunt  a  better  one.  One  of  his  men,  Sarsfield,  soon  came  run- 
ning to  him  with  the  news  that  the  king  had  seized  upon  all  his  goods, 
and  had  prohibited  any  person  from  furnishing  him  with  a  residence. 
He  finally,  however,  furnished  them  with  a  rather  better  hut.  "  After 
being  in  my  new  quarters  a  few  days,"  says  Mr.  Laird,  "  I  began  to  sus- 
pect that  my  Funda  trip  would  turn  out  an  unprofitiible  speculation,  as 
two  or  three  natives  had  been  severely  flogged  for  attempting  to  sell  me 
some  ivory;  and  the  king,  who  visited  me  every  day,  evidently  had  none 
— or  if  he  had,  thought  it  better  to  keep  it  and  my  goods  also.  I  had, 
in  short,  been  completely  decoyed,  and  had  only  myself  to  blame,  as  I 
had  put  myself  entirely  in  the  king's  power." 

He  finally  prevailed  upon  the  king  to  allow  him  to  send  Sarsfield  to  the 
Qnorra,  apparently  to  procure  more  goods,  but  in  reality  to  bring  rock- 
ets and  ammunition.  After  an  absence  of  fourteen  days,  the  latter  re- 
turned with  the  news  that  Captain  Hill,  of  the  Albiirkah,  was  so  ill  that 
Mr.  Lander  had  set  off  in  a  canoe  for  the  sea-coast  with  him.  "  If  I  was 
glad  to  see  Sarsfield,"  observes  Mr.  Laird,  "  he  was  overjoyed  to  find  me 
still  alive,  and  though  much  fatigued  with  his  journey,  having  walked 


J 


T 


648 


EXPLORATIONS    OF   TUB    NIGER. 


from  Yimmaha,  a  distanco  of  tliirty  miles,  we  sat  up  until  nearly  day- 
break, and  laid  a  plan  fur  frightening  thu  king  and  his  people,  all  the 
credit  of  which  is  due  to  him  both  for  its  invention  and  success.  He  had 
brought  the  rockets  with  liiin,  and  had  let  off  one  at  Yimmalia,  and  ile- 
seribed  tlic  terror  and  alarm  of  the  inhabitants  produced  by  it  as  excess- 
ive. They  looked  upon  him  as  a  deity,  and  supplied  him  in  consequence 
with  provisions  and  carriers  to  Funda.  Ho  proposed  to  try  the  effect 
of  them  here,  Icttmg  off  three  or  four  at  a  time,  and  burning  blue-lights 
aller  them. 

"  The  next  morning  wo  had  a  visit  from  the  king,  who  wished  to  see 
what  Sarsiicld  had  brought.  I  gave  him  to  understand  that  my  people 
would  not  send  any  thing  until  I  went  to  them  myself,  and  that  in  the 
evening  I  intended  to  make  a  grand  fetish  to  my  god,  to  know  whether 
I  should  go,  or  stay  at  Funda.  The  king  said  that  was  good,  and  that 
ho  would  attend  with  all  his  priests  and  summon  the  inhabitants  to  wit- 
ness it.  The  fetish  was  to  be  made  under  a  largo  tamarind-tree,  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  street  in  which  the  court  was  wherein  we  resided. 
Wo  made  as  much  of  this  affair  as  wo  could,  and  pretended  to  go 
through  sundry  preparations,  in  order  to  impress  on  the  minds  of  these 
people  an  idea  of  its  importance. 

"  In  the  evening  I  was  carried  out  about  seven  o'clock,  and  seated 
in  the  street  opposite  the  tree,  the  king  and  his  chief  men  close  by,  sur- 
rounding Sarsfield  and  the  Krooracn,  who  were  holding  the  rockets  and 
blue  lights  that  we  had  brought  out  for  the  occasion.  As  a  conunence- 
mcnt  of  the  proceeding,  I  took  a  piece  of  paper  and  with  great  solemnity 
fastened  it  to  one  of  the  rocket?  and  gave  it  to  Sarsfield ;  we  agreed 
that  the  signal  for  firing  the  rockots  and  blue  lights,  should  be  the  dis- 
charge of  my  pistol.  An  immense  crowd  of  natives  Avas  assembled  to 
witness  the  ceremony  of  the  white  man's  fetish ;  the  wide  street  was 
filled,  and  the  roofi  of  the  houses  and  the  tops  of  the  walls  were  crowded 
with  spectators,  all  full  of  wonder  and  speculation  aa  to  what  they 
wore  to  see. 

"Every  thing  being  ready,  I  fired  my  pistol,  and  up  flew  four 
beautiful  tv/o  pound  rockets,  the  discharge  of  which  was  immediately 
followed  by  the  blaze  of  six  blue  lights,  throwing  a  ghastly  glare  over 
the  whole  scene.  The  effect  was  perfectly  electric ;  the  natives  had  no 
idea  of  what  was  coming,  and  fled  in  all  directions.  The  king,  fiUed 
with  terror,  threw  himself  on  the  ground  before  me,  and  placing  one  of 
my  feet  on  his  head,  entreated  me  to  preserve  him  from  harm,  and  to 
inform  him  what  was  the  decision  of  the  Fates.  It  was  now  my  turn  to 
make  use  of  the  power  which  I  was  supposed  to  possess,  and  I  replied 
that  I  should  tell  him  presently,  but  that  I  must  now  return  to  my  house 
with  all  my  men.  The  farce  had  been  successful  so  &r,  and  the  artifice 
was  only  to  be  carried  out  to  a  successful  issue. 

"  After  keeping  the  king  in  suspense  about  an  hour,  I  sent  word  to 
him  that  I  was  ready  to  receive  him,  and  that  he  himself  was  to  come 


THE    WHITE    MAN'S    FETISH. 


649 


til  nearly  day- 
people,  all  the 
eco88.  He  had 
nmaha,  and  ilo- 
by  it  as  cxcess- 
in  conBcqucnco 

0  try  the  effect 
ning  blue-lights 

lO  wished  to  see 
that  my  people 
uid  that  in  the 
)  know  whether 
good,  and  that 
labitants  to  wit- 
,rind-trec,  at  the 
rein  we  resided, 
retended  to  go 

1  minds  of  these 

ilock,  and  seated 
len  close  by,  sur- 
the  rockets  and 
As  a  commencc- 
j  great  solemnity 
field ;  we  agreed 
bould  be  the  dia- 
was  assembled  to 
I  wide  street  was 
dls  were  crowded 
i&  to  what  they 

ad  up  flew  four 
was  immediately 
'hastly  glare  over 
le  natives  had  no 
The  king,  filled 
ad  placing  one  of 
om  harm,  and  to 
iS  now  my  turn  to 
388,  and  I  replied 
etum  to  my  house 
ir,  and  the  artifice 

r,  I  sent  word  to 
iself  was  to  come 


and  see  the  result  of  the  fotish.  Ho  came  iiinnodiiitely,  and  as  soon  as 
he  was  seated,  I  told  him  that  I  had  sent  for  him  to  see  wlu'thcr  I  was 
to  go  or  stay,  and  that  my  god  would  punish  them  i"  ?.  .naiiuer  of  wliich 
they  had  no  idea,  if  thoy  presumed  to  break  his  commandments.  I 
then  took  from  my  pocket  a  little  compass,  and  explained  to  him,  that 
if  the  needle  in  it  pointed  toward  nic,  as  soon  ns  it  was  jjlaccd  on  tlic 
ground,  that  I  was  to  go  from  Funda,  and  that  if  toward  liiin  that  I 
was  to  stay,  to  all  of  which  ho  attended  witli  mueh  reverence.  I  of 
course  took  care  to  know  my  position,  and  placing  the  compaHs  on  the 
ground,  the  needle  very  properly  turned  toward  mo,  Tliis  was  sufficient, 
the  thing  was  done,  and  the  king  was  convinced  that  he  should  allow  me 
to  depart  freely.  I  wished  liim  to  handle  it,  but  ho  shrunk  ft-om  it  with 
terror,  imagining  that  it  was  a  living  creature,  and  was  glad  to  get  out 
of  my  presence,  after  having  promised  to  give  mo  horses,  or  whatever 
I  might  want  in  the  morning.  "Wo  had  the  greatest  difficulty  to  pre- 
serve our  gravity  throughout  this  farce,  and  when  left  to  ourselves  wo 
enjoyed  a  hearty  laugh  at  the  success  of  our  plan,  and  the  credulity  of 
the  king." 

Mr.  Laird  lost  no  time  in  returning  to  the  Qiiorra,  which  lio  reached 
in  the  beginning  of  June,  having  been  detained  seven  weeks  at  Funda. 
He  dispatched  the  purser,  Mr.  Hector,  to  the  latter  place,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  bringing  away  the  goods  ho  had  been  obliged  to  leave  behind 
him,  but  without  success.  Findnig  it  impossible  to  trade  with  the 
natives  to  any  advantage,  his  crew  being  disabled  by  sickness,  and  him- 
self in  a  dropsical  state  which  threatened  to  become  fatal,  ho  determined 
to  return  to  the  coast.  "On  the  10th  of  July,"  he  says,  "the  water 
havmg  risen  by  measurement  fourteen  feet,  wo  got  under  weigh,  taking 
the  AUmrkah  in  tow,  and  proceeded  rapidly  down  the  river,  passing  the 
beautiful  gorge  through  the  Kong  Mountains,  and  arriving  at  Bocqua, 
where  we  anchored  to  purchase  rice  and  other  provisions.  About  two 
o'clock  }'-.  the  afternoon,  to  my  great  surprise,  a  boat  under  canvas  hove 
in  sight.  I  sent  a  boat  to  her  with  Hector,  who  returned  with  Mr. 
Lander  and  Mr.  Oldfield,  our  surgeon,  bruiging  a  parcel  of  letters  for 
me.  Mr.  Lander  was  looking  much  worse  than  when  I  last  saw  him, 
and  had  evidently  suffered  much  in  the  boats  from  exposure  to  the 
weather.  He  had  been  thirty-two  days  on  hia  passage  from  the  Nun, 
in  the  brig's  long  boat.  Mr.  Lander  having  determined  to  endeavor  to 
reach  Boussa  in  X\xq  ATburkah,  ^xe^  his  departure  for  the  27th;  and 
though  very  anxious  myself  to  visit  a  place  hallowed  by  the  melancholy 
fate  of  Mungo  Park,  I  did  not  consider  myself  justified  in  returning, 
and  adhered  to  my  determination  to  lay  the  vessel  up  at  Fernando  Po 
and  return  to  England." 


Si 


T8n«ri«  Tfaiuwii 


650 


EXl'LUliATlUN.S    OF    Tllk;    MUKU. 


NAUIIATIVK    OK    Hit.    OLDIMKLD. 


Mr.  Laird  carried  out  lii.s  purposo,  anil  rcuciied  Livorjiool  in  safety, 
witli  rt'Mtori'd  hoaltii,  in  January,  I8;t4.  Wc  now  follow  this  fortunes  of 
tho  ruinuiniiig  vessel,  tlie  Alburkali,  wliich  once  more  j)rocecded  up  tho 
Niger,  having  on  board  Kiehard  Lauder,  Lieutenant  Allen,  and  Dr.  Old- 
field. 

On  tho  2d  of  A\igust  they  entered  tho  Chadda,  intending  to  ascend 
it  to  tho  eastward  as  far  as  Lake  Tchad,  if  practicable ;  but  after  pro- 
ceeding  a  distance  of  one  hinidred  and  four  miles,  and  reaching  a  country 
calletl  Domah,  tho  king  of  which  was  at  war  with  tho  Shekh  of  Bomou, 
they  ran  out  of  provisions,  and  were  obliged  to  return.  Tho  jjcople 
would  neither  trade  nor  sell  them  any  thing,  but  deserted  tho  villages 
iuid  retreated  into  the  woods  at  their  approach.  On  tho  20thof  j^ugust 
they  again  entered  the  Niger,  which  they  designed  ascending  to  Houssa, 
or  as  far  as  it  would  bo  possible  for  tho  steamer  to  go.  On  reaching 
Kacunda,  tliey  saw  the  old  schoolmaster  who  hail  been  so  friendly  to  tho 
brothers  Lander  on  their  first  voyage,  and  was  greatly  surprised  to  see 
one  of  them  again.  The  river  was  rising  rapidly,  and  they  experienced 
no  difficulty  in  ascending.  Dr.  Oldtiold  says :  "  A  number  of  natives 
lined  the  bank  of  the  river,  who,  as  tho  vessel  approached  thom,  fell  upon 
their  knees.  Our  interpreter  hailed  thom,  and  was  answered  that  they 
came  to  see  the  people  of  God.  A  largo  canoe  was  now  seen  approach- 
ing from  a  distance,  containing  nearly  forty  persons,  several  of  whom 
wore  Mallams.  When  near  the  vessel,  the  Mallams  and  natives  in  front 
fell  down  on  their  knees,  exclaiming,  '  Allah  um  do  lo  la  fee  !  Allah  um 
de  lo  la  fee !'  (God  is  great,  and  God  preserve  you !)  They  continued 
repeating  extracts  from  tho  Koran  as  they  drew  nearer ;  and  when  tho 
Mallams  in  tho  front  had  knelt,  those  behind  thom  fell  down  in  the  same 
manner.  It  was  an  extraordinary  sight,  and  produced  a  strange  but 
very  pleasing  effect." 

At  Egga,  where  they  arrived  on  the  Tth  of  September,  they  saw 
Felatahs  for  the  first  time.  They  made  no  halt  here,  however,  but  kept 
on  their  way  to  Rabba,  which  they  reached,  without  accident,  on  the 
10th.  "  As  we  rapidly  approached  the  town,"  says  Dr.  Oldfield,  "  it  ap- 
peared to  bo  situated  on  the  slope  of  a  rising  ground  ;  and  the  houses 
being  built  one  above  tho  other,  impart  to  it  tho  appearance  of  an  am- 
phitheater. "With  the  aid  of  a  glass  we  could  discern  an  amazing  crowd 
of  natives  assembled  on  the  banks;  bvit,  what  was  more  in  accordance 
with  our  wishes,  we  could  distinguish  Iiorses,  cows,  bullocks,  sheep,  and 
goats.  As  we  drew  nearer,  wo  found  the  city  to  be  of  immense  extent, 
with  villages  all  round  the  suburbs.  The  king  was  apprised  of  our  in- 
tention to  fire  a  salute,  and  the  walls  of  liabba,  for  the  first  time,  re- 
echoed with  the  sound  of  British  cannon,  and  lier  people  witnessed  a 
novel  sight  in  the  arrival  of  a  British  steam-vessel  constructed  of  iron. 


Tjiool  ill  safety, 

w  till!  i'ortuiK'H  of 

»roccciIt'(l  up  the 

lion,  and  Dr.  Old- 

tonding  to  asceud 
;  but  aftor  pro- 
aching  a  country 
Shekh  of  13omou, 
urn.    The  })(.'oplo 
Bited  the  villages 
he  20th  of  August 
ending  to  IJoussa, 
go.     On  reaching 
n  so  friendly  to  the 
ly  surprised  to  hoc 
they  experienced 
number  of  natives 
hod  them,  fell  upon 
inswered  that  they 
ow  seen  approach- 
i,  several  of  whom 
ind  natives  in  front 
)  la  fee  !     Allah  um 
)    They  continued 
rer  ;  and  when  the 
II  down  in  the  same 
iced  a  strange  but 

sptember,  they  saw 
,  however,  but  kept 
It  accident,  on  the 
)r.  Oldfield,  "  it  ap- 
d  ;  and  the  houses 
pearance  of  an  am- 
1  an  amazing  crowd 
aore  in  accordance 
jullocks,  sheep,  and 
of  immense  extent, 
apprised  of  our  in- 
ir  the  first  time,  re- 
people  witnessed  a 
ionstructed  of  iron. 


I 
;  I 


FAILURE    OF    TIIK    KXPKDITION. 


651 


After  our  salute,  our  people  broke  nut  into  three  hearty  chcors,  which 
porha|)s  surprised  still  more  the  thousands  of  human  beings  that  were 
assemblofl  before  the  walls  of  Habba." 

It  was  determined  to  establish  a  trade  nt  this  place,  and  then  to  run 
the  Albitt'ktih  as  far  toward  IJoussa  as  possible,  atlor  which  Lander  and 
Oldtiold  would  proceed  in  the  long-boat.  Hoth  of  these  plans,  however, 
wore  thwarted  ;  the  goods  did  not  meet  with  a  ready  sale,  and  the  en- 
gineer discovered  a  flaw  in  the  cylinder,  which  disabled  the  boat  from 
advancing  against  a  strong  current.  They  remained  hero  until  the  iJd 
of  October,  when,  finding  that  little  was  to  be  done  in  tho  way  of  trade, 
and  that  the  river  was  begnining  to  fall,  they  decided  to  return  to  the 
sea-coast.  While  visiting  their  old  friend  Abokko,  at  Damuggoo,  on  the 
voyage  down.  Lander  gave  him  a  very  handsome  necklace,  which  had 
been  intended  for  tho  King  of  Houssa,  and  he  repaid  it  by  the  gift  of  a 
large  inland  opposite  the  town,  to  which  tho  name  of  English  Island  wa'^ 
given.  Mr.  Brown,  one  of  tho  company's  clerks,  Avas  placed  upon  it, 
to  trade  with  the  natives  during  the  absence  of  tho  steamer,  Abokko 
having  promised  to  build  a  Iiouse  tor  him.  Tho  vessel  then  resumed  her 
voyage,  and  reached  the  sea  on  tho  Slst. 

"  No  sooner  had  wo  reached  Fernando  Po,"  says  Dr.  Oldfield,  "  than 
I  became  too  unwell  to  attend  to  any  thing  that  was  going  forward  re- 
specting the  destination  of  tho  vessel.  Lieutenant  Allen,  having  com- 
pleted his  survey  of  tho  river,  determined  on  returning  to  England  by 
tho  first  opportunity ;  and  it  was  now  arranged  that  I  should  go  again 
»i[)  tho  river  with  the  vessel,  while  Mr.  Lander,  after  visiting  Capo  Coast 
and  Accrah  for  cowries,  was  to  follow  me,  and  expected  to  rejoin  me  up 
the  river  in  about  six  weeks." 

On  the  27th  of  November  they  were  again  in  tho  River  Nun.  Lan- 
der left  the  same  day  in  tho  Quorra  for  Capo  Coast,  while  tho  Albiirkah, 
under  the  command  of  Dr.  Oldfield,  sailed  for  tho  Niger.  Shortly  after 
passing  Ebot,  the  engine  gave  way,  and  all  efforts  to  repair  it  seemed  to 
be  ineffectual.  While  these  attempts  were  going  on.  Dr.  Oldfield  took 
a  boat  and  ascended  the  river  to  Iddah,  where  ho  arrived  on  the  23d 
of  December,  and  found  Mr.  Brown,  tho  clerk,  who  had  been  left  behind. 
Finally,  on  the  1st  of  January,  1834,  the  engine  was  again  put  in  motion, 
but  in  tho  mean  time  the  engineers  and  several  of  the  crew  had  died. 
Dr.  Oldfield  was,  therefore,  obliged  to  intrust  the  management  ot  ,.c\ . 
engine  entirely  to  tho  black  firemen.  They  proceeded  very  slow  y,  and 
did  not  reach  Iddah  until  the  14th. 

From  this  time  forward,  tho  journal  of  Dr.  Oldfield  is  little  else  than 
a  record  of  his  dealings  with  the  Kings  of  Iddah,  Abokko,  and  other  na- 
tive chiefs,  in  his  endeavors  to  establish  a  trade.  The  former,  whoso 
name  was  Attah,  was  the  same  man  who  had  poisoned  Pascoe,  and  en- 
deavored to  get  Lander  into  his  power  with  the  same  object.  Abokko 
alone  was  faithful,  and  inclined  to  take  their  part,  but  there  was  no 
end  to  the  intrigue  and  deceit  which  they  encountered.    The  trading 


(I 


■•'*  ^1,  ««,  ifi  fc  mnurtln^'-'l/t,  WQt  'V- 


i   i 


n 


562 


EXPLORATIONS    OF   THE    NIGER. 


operations  were  tolerably  successful,  and  t  jey  received  a  larger  quantity 
of  ivory  than  they  had  before  taken.  In  the  early  part  of  February 
they  heard  a  rumor  that  Richard  Lander,  in  ascending  the  river  to  re- 
join them,  with  a  supply  of  cowries,  had  been  attacked  and  plundered 
in  the  £boe  country ;  and  this  was  confirmed  on  the  20th  of  March  by 
a  letter  from  Lander  himself,  who  stated  that  he  had  been  attacked  on 
the  20th  of  January,  ntar  a  village  called  Hyaramah,  about  eighty-five 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Three  men  were  killed,  and  the 
boat  taken,  with  every  thing  it  coritained.  Lander  and  the  other  men 
barely  escaping  in  a  light  canoe,  in  which  they  pulled  down  the  stream 
all  night.  Lander  was  severely  wounded  by  a  ball  in  the  thigh,  and 
had  returned  to  Fernando  Po. 


'  '-  tANDER'S  ORATK. 

In  March,  Dr.  Oldfield  received  notice  from  Abokko  that  an  attack 
on  the  Steamer  was  designed  by  the  natives,  and  consequently  kept  a 
strict  watch  at  night,  to  guard  against  surprise.  He  remained  in  this 
region  until  the  1st  of  June,  constantly  exposed  to  the  danger  of  hostil- 
ities, which  were  only  avoided,  in  two  or  three  instances,  by  his  coolness 
and  determination.  Finally,  his  men  being  all  more  or  less  disabled  by 
the  fevers,  which  had  already  carried  off  several  of  them,  he  decided  to 
return  to  the  sea.  In  passmg  down  the  river,  he  reached,  on  the  2lBt, 
the  spot  where  Lander  had  been  attacked.  He  says :  "  About  three 
o'clock,  on  passing  a  town  situate  on  the  left  bank,  about  two  hundred 
natives  rushed  from  behind  the  trees  and  fired  at  us,  taking  deliberate 
aim.  I  stood  by  the  nine-pounder  and  fired  a  rocket  over  the  town ; 
but  this  did  not  appear  to  alarm  them,  for  they  kept  up  an  irregular  fire, 


\ 


BR. 

td  a  larger  quantity 
ly  part  of  February 
ing  the  river  to  re- 
cked and  plundered 
e  29th  of  March  by 
il  been  attacked  on 
lb,  about  eighty-five 
(vere  killed,  and  the 
and  the  other  men 
led  down  the  stream 
11  in  the  thigh,  and 


)okko  that  an  attack 
consequently  kept  a 
He  remained  in  this 
the  danger  of  hostil- 
ances,  by  his  coolneea 
re  or  less  disabled  by 
'  them,  he  decided  to 
reached,  on  the  2lBt, 
says:  "About  three 
k,  about  two  hundred 
;  us,  taking  deliberate 
cket  over  the  town; 


)t  up  an  irregular  fire. 


GOVERNMENT   EXPEDITION   TO   THE   NIGER. 


553 


runnin-  along  the  bank  with  the  vessel  untU  we  rounded  the  point  and 

lotTut  of  sight  of  the  town.    The  musket-balls  flew  about  the  tempo- 

St  house  aiTd  the  ship's  quarter-deck  in  all  directions  for  several  min- 

.tel  and  although  they  struck  the  chimney  and  roof  of  the  house,  w( 


we 


utes;  and  although  they  i 

""'  ZrlLkah  reached  Fernando  Po  on  the  0th  of  July.  Richard 
Lander  had  died  in  consequence  of  the  wounds  he  l^'^^roceivcd  and 
was  buried  in  a  sequestered  spot  near  the  town,  at  the  base  of  a  lofty 
rtton^rct  where!  monument  has  since  been  placed  to  his  memory 
aTtha  of  he  many  other  daring  men  who  have  fallen  in  the  attempt 
to  open  the  savage'regions  of  Africa  to  intercourse  with  the  civilized 

""^  D;.  Oldfield  took  passage  for  England  on  the  lltb  of  August.  "On 
the  18  h  of  November."  he  says,  "I  reached  London,  but  m  a  very  m- 
firm  state  of  health,  having  suff-ered  much  in  my  constitution  from 
exposure  to  dimete  and  all  kinds  of  privation  and  the  onljj^nvo^ean 
left  alive  of  the  crew  of  the  Jlburkah  who  left  Fernando  Po  m  No- 
vember  " 

ALLEN   AND    THOMPSON'S    EXPEDITION   TO   THE    NIGER. 

After  the  failure  of  Mr.  Laird's  commercial  expedition  to  the  Niger, 
no  furthe  attempt  was  made  for  several  years.  In  \^l^^^o.^^^^^^ 
society  was  formed,  mider  the  presidency  of  Prince  Albert,  "for  the 
i  Ex  nctiorof  the  Slave-trade  and  the  Civilization  of  Africa."  A  depu- 
'  fat  rtom  this  society  waited  on  Lord  John  Russell,  recommendmg 
that  a  government  expedition  should  be  sent  to  the  coast  of  Africa,  and 
the  rtvfr  Niger,  with  commissioners  empowered  to  form  treaties  of  com- 
rnerce  and  f!r  the  suppression  of  the  external  slave-trade.    After  some 

Seration  the  government  acceded,  -"^  o',^«"  ^^'^  ^^2^^ 
three  iron  steamers  for  the  service.  Two  of  these  the  Alb^t  and  W 
berforee,  were  140  feet  in  length,  and  of  457  tons  burden ;  the  third,  the 
5oM<«a»,  was  of250  tons  only,  and  113  feet  m  length. 

The  vessels  were  built  during  the  summer  of  1840 ;  m  November  of 
that  year,  most  of  the  officers  appointed  to  the  expedition  had  jomed 
their  respective  ships,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  crews  tad  ente^d. 
Captain  Trotter  was  appointed  commander  of  the  ^»er«,  Captain  Wil- 
liam  Men,  of  the  TTtWer/orce,  and  Captain  Bird  Allen  of  the  Soudan. 
These  three  commanders,  with  Mr.  William  Cook,  were  appointed  com- 
missioners, empowered  to  make  treaties.    In  addition,  several  scientific 
men  were  sent  out,  under  the  auspices  of  the  African  Cmlization  Society 
As  auxiUary  to  the  purpose  of  the  society,  but  not  officially  connected 
with  it,  nor  with  the  expedition,  an  Agricultural  Society  was  formed, 
with  the  intention  of  establishing  a  model  ferm  in  sudi  a  locality  aa 
might  be  selected  by  the  commissioners.    The  Admiralty  granted  s 


654 


EXPLORATIONS   OP   THE    NIGER. 


passage  to  Mr.  Carr,  a  colored  West  Indian,  who  was  engaged  to  ant  as 
superintendent  of  the  farm.  All  the  preparations  having  been  com» 
pleted,  the  expedition  sailed  from  England  on  the  22d  of  April,  1841. 

After  touching  at  the  Canaries,  Sierra  Leone,  Liberia,  and  v.'ape 
Coast  Castle,  the  three  vessels  reached  the  river  Nun  on  the  9th  of 
August.    The  surf  was  very  heavy  on  the  bar,  and  owing  to  the  vessels 


B 


MOUTH  OF  THE  NIOBB. 

being  rather  deeply  laden,  with  their  coal,  supplies,  and  the  articles  for 
the  model  farm,  which  they  had  taken  on  board  at  Cape  Coast,  they  did 
not  venture  to  attempt  the  entrance,  until  the  15th,  when  the  sea  was 
smooth.  Says  Captain  Al?en :  "  It  was  a  moment  of  deep  and  breathless 
expectation,  both  as  being  a  passage  of  considerable  difficulty  and  as 
being  the  first  absolute  step  in  that  path,  so  full  of  novelty  and  exciting 
interest,  but  which  all  knew  must  be  frauglit  with  danger ;  yet  their 
zeal  did  not  suffer  such  anticipations  to  darken  their  prospect,  and  the 
accomplishment  of  the  entrance  of  the  river  Niger  was  announced  by 
three  cheers  from  the  whole  crew." 

On  the  20th,  they  started  on  their  voyage  up  the  river,  passing  into 
the  main  stream  by  the  same  narrow  channel  which  Lander  and  Laird 
had  chosen,  and,  after  exploring  a  new  arm  of  the  river  to  the  westward, 
anchored  off  Eboe,  the  residence  of  King  Obie,  on  the  evening  of  the 
26th.  The  next  day,  after  sending  one  of  his  sons  to  ascertain  the  inten- 
tions of  his  visitors.  King  Obie  made  his  appearance,  in  his  state  canoe, 
with  a  numerous  retinue,  and  a  deafening  company  of  native  drummers 
and  singera.  On  reaching  the  deck  of  the  IVllberforce,  the  king  recog- 
nized Captain  Allen  (who,  as  Lieutenant  Allen,  had  accompanied  Lander 
and  Oldfiold  m  the  Alburkah)  as  an  old  friend.  "  He  brought  with  him," 
says  the  Captain,  "  two  favorite  wives  and  a  daughter ;  one  of  the  for- 


i 


I 


TREATY    WITH    KINO    OBIE. 


555 


engaged  to  act  as 
laving  been  com- 
of  April,  1841, 
ibena,  and  v^'ape 
in  on  the  9th  of 
ring  to  the  vessels 


and  the  articles  for 
lape  Coast,  they  did 
,  when  the  sea  was 
deep  and  breathless 
lie  difficulty  and  as 
lovelty  and  exciting 
I  danger;  yet  their 
ir  prospect,  and  the 
was  announced  by 

e  river,  passing  into 
h  Lander  and  Laird 
^er  to  the  westward, 
I  the  evening  of  the 
I  ascertain  the  inten- 
e,  in  his  state  canoe, 
of  native  drummers 
(M-ce,  the  king  recog- 
jccompanied  Lander 
!  brought  with  him," 
iter ;  one  of  the  for- 


mer probably  was  not  more  than  thirteen,  and  was  younger  than  the 
daughter.  They  were  simply  attired  with  a  scanty  waist-cloth  ;  but  two 
drosses  of  flaming  red  silk,  and  another  of  cotton  print,  mipplied  to  the 
expedition  by  their  compassionate  sisters  of  our  own  blest  land,  were  pre- 
sented to  them,  and  very  soon  put  on,  but  did  not  appear  to  add  at  all 
to  their  comtbrt,  as  they  stood  trembling  between  fear  and  joy." 


UKa  OBIS  AKD  mS  WIVES. 

After  a  consultation  between  the  commissioners  and  King  Obic,  the 
latter  expressed  his  willingness  to  make  such  a  treaty  as  they  proposed 
to  him — to  give  up  the  slave-trade  in  his  dominions,  and  prevent  his 
neighbors,  as  far  as  possible,  from  carrying  it  on — to  give  English  trad- 
ers the  freedom  of  the  river,  allow  them  to  purchase  houses  and  lands, 
and  both  to  enjoy  their  own  religion  and  to  convert  his  own  subjects  to 
it,  without  disturbance.  On  the  28th,  the  treaty  having  been  carefully 
explained,  was  signed  by  the  commissioners  on  the  part  of  the  queen, 
properly  witnessed ;  and  by  Obie,  witnessed  by  his  eldest  son  and  two 
brothers.  Captain  Trotter  then  requested  the  chaplain,  the  Rev.  Theo- 
dore Miiller,  to  ask  the  blessing  of  God  on  this  successful  conmienccment 
of  their  labors.  "The  nature  of  the  ceremony  having  been  explained  to 
Obie,"  says  Captain  Allen,  "  with  an  intimation  that  he  might  remain  or 
retire,  he  signified  his  Avish  to  join  us,  and  imitated  our  example  in  kneel- 
mg  to  the  Christian's  God — to  him  an  unknown  and  inappreciable  being. 

"  In  that  solemn  moment,  when  the  stillness  was  unbroken,  save  by 
the  reverential  voice  of  the  clergyman,  and  all  were  devoutly  engaged, 
Obie  became  violently  agitated.  On  the  conclusion  of  the  ceremony  he 
started  up,  and  uttering  a  sudden  fearful  exclamation,  called  aloud  for 
his  ju-ju  man  to  bring  his  protecting  '  Arrisi,'  or  idol,  being  evidently 
under  the  impression  that  we  had  performed  some  incantation  to  his 
prejudice,  the  adverse  tendencies  of  which,  it  would  be  necessary  to 


; 


566 


EXPLORATIONS   OF   THB   NIOJiR. 


counteract  by  a  sacrifice  on  his  part.  He  stood  trembling  with  fear  and 
agitation  ;  the  perspiration  streamed  down  his  face  and  neck,  showing 
how  great  was  the  agony  of  mind  he  endured.  The  priest  had  heard 
the  cry  of  his  sovereign,  and  rushing  into  the  cabin  with  the  idol — a 
piece  of  blackened  wood,  enveloped  in  cloth — which  the  king  placed  be- 
tween his  feet,  was  about  to  offer  the  customary  libation  of  palm-wine, 
I'tc,  when  Captain  Trotter,  also  much  disconcerted  at  the  idea  of  a 
heathen  coroniony  being  performed  in  our  presence,  and  in  opposition  to 
the  rites  of  our  holy  religion,  interrupted  him,  and  called  for  Captain 


TBI  MODRL  FARU. 


Bird  Allen,  who  had  just  lett  the  cabin.  It  was  an  interval  of  breathless 
anxiety,  the  king  became  every  moment  more  alarmed,  and  desirous  to 
continue  his  sacrifice,  until  it  was  explained  to  him  that  we  had  asked 
the  Great  God,  who  was  Father  of  us  all,  to  bestow  His  blessing  alike 
on  the  black  people  ard  on  us.  This  immediately  pacified  him,  he  de- 
sisted  from  the  operations,  and  his  good  humor  as  quickly  returned." 

On  the  1st  of  September,  the  vessels  reached  Damuggoo,  the  resi- 
dence of  old  Abokko,  who  had  proved  so  true  a  friend  to  the  Landers 
and  Mr.  Liurd.  They  were  grieved  to  find  that  the  old  man  had  been 
dead  for  several  years.  His  family,  however,  was  still  in  great  power, 
one  of  his  sons,  Okien,  having  succeeded  him  in  the  government  of  the 
town  and  territory.  They  then  proceednd  to  Iddah,  where  the  commis- 
sioners had  several  interviews  with  the  treacherous  old  king,  AtLah.  He 
professed  his  entire  willingness  to  discontinue  tho  slave-trade,  prevent  it 
from  being  carried  on,  to  discontinue  human  sacrifices,  receive  and  treat 
hospitably  English  traders,  and  finally,  to  give  up  such  a  tract  of  land 
for  the  purposes  of  the  model  farm,  as  the  commissioners  might  select. 
After  making  all  these  promises,  he  was  particularly  anxious  to  see  the 


-^i 


"1, 


Ibling  with  fear  and 

and  neck,  showing 

10  priest  had  heard 

In  with  the  idol — a 

the  king  placed  be- 

ption  of  palm-wine, 

?d  at  the  idea  of  a 

land  in  opposition  to 

called  for  Captain 


RAVAGES    OF    TUE    FEVER. 


557 


i^i. 


.»•»•' 


interval  of  breathless 
ncd,  and  desirous  to 
tn  that  we  had  asked 
)W  His  blessing  alike 
r  pacified  him,  he  de- 
quickly  returned." 
Damuggoo,  the  resi- 
friend  to  the  Landers 
be  old  man  had  been 
3  still  in  great  power, 
le  government  of  the 
h,  where  the  commis- 
old  king,  Atlah.  He 
lave-trade,  prevent  it 
jes,  receive  and  treat 
such  a  tract  of  land 
isionors  might  select, 
ly  anxious  to  see  the 


pre8en.,3  intended  for  him.  All  the  arrangements  having  been  concluded, 
the  expedition  loft  on  the  8th  for  the  conflucneo  of  iho  Niger  and  the 
Chadda,  near  wliich  pomt  tho  oommissioncrs  pru])osed  to  locate  the 
model  farm. 

By  this  time  tho  fever  had  made  its  appearance  on  board  the  vessels, 
and  soon  occasioned  fearful  havoc.  Tho  men  died  every  day,  and  they 
had  every  reason  to  expect  a  recurrence  of  tho  melancholy  scenes  on 
board  tho  Quorra  and  Alburkah.  On  tho  12th,  they  reached  the  junc- 
tion, and  tho  botanist  and  geologist,  having  examined  the  country,  re- 
commended a  spot  on  tho  western  bank  of  tho  Niger,  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Chadda,  and  near  a  lofty  hill  called  Moimt  Stirling,  by  Lander. 
ITie  preliminaries  were  agreed  upon  between  tho  commissioners  and  tho 
agents  of  Attah,  and  the  land  was  purchased  for  tho  sum  of  700,000 
cowries  (about  $220).  Tho  tract  extended  about  sixteen  miles  along 
tho  bank  of  the  river,  and  four  miles  in  depth. 

"On  the  18th  of  September,"  says  Capttun  Allen,  "tho  nimiber  of 
sick  had  increased  to  sixty,  and  death  had  already  done  fearful  execution 
among  us.  The  scenes  at  itight  were  most  agonizing.  Nothing  but 
muttering  delirium,  or  suppressed  groans  wore  heard  on  every  side  on 
board  the  vessels,  affording  a  sad  contrast  to  tho  placid  character  of  tho 
river  and  its  surrounding  scenery."  It  was  at  first  proposed  to  send  tho 
invaUds  to  the  summit  of  tho  hills,  in  order  to  enjoy  a  purer  air ;  but 
the  surgeon  declared  that  they  could  not  safely  bo  removed,  and  Cap- 
tain Trottor  then  decided  to  put  them  on  board  tho  Soudan,  and  havo 
them  carried  down  to  the  sca-ooast.  On  Sunday,  the  19th,  this  was 
done:  "Prayers  we.^o  read  to  tho  crews  of  both  vessels.  It  was  an 
affecting  scone.  Tho  whole  of  one  side  of  tho  little  vessel  was  covered 
with  tho  invalids,  and  the  cabms  wore  full  of  officers  j  there  was,  indeed, 
no  room  for  more." 

A  conference  of  tho  comnumders  was  now  hold,  as  to  the  proper 
course  to  be  pursued.  On  the  one  hand  it  was  proposed  that  they 
should  ascend  tho  Niger  as  far  as  Rabba,  to  make  a  treaty  with  tho  Fo- 
latahs,  and  other  native  tribes ;  whilo  Captain  William  Allen,  who  had 
some  experience  of  tho  river  and  its  climato,  strongly  urged  an  im- 
mediate return  to  the  sea,  in  order  to  restore  the  health  of  the  crews. 
After  a  long  discussion  it  wai  decided  that  the  Albert  should  attempt  to 
reach  Rabba,  while  the  WUberforct  should  descend  tho  river,  and  pro- 
ceed to  carry  out  the  intentions  of  tho  government  in  the  Bights  of 
Benin  and  Biafra.  Captain  Trotter  having  prepared  his  dispatches  for 
England,  the  vessels  separated  on  tho  20th  of  September. 

Tho  Wilber/orce  reached  Fernando  Po  on  tho  1st  of  October,  and 
found  the  Soudan  at  anchor  there.  Several  persons  had  died  on  both 
vessels,  and  as  there  was  no  diminution  of  the  sick-list,  but  the  contrary. 
Captain  Allen  resolved  to  leave  Fernando  Po  as  soon  as  possible — its 
reputation  for  unhealthinoss  being  second  only  to  tho  fatal  Niger — and 
to  proceed  to  Ascension,  as  the  best  means  under  Providence  of  enabling 


558 


EXPLORATIONS   OP   THE    NIGER. 


the  crew  of  the  Wilberforce  to  recovci'  their  health.  A  snifill  trading 
steamer,  called  the  Mhiope,  under  charge  of  Mr.  liccroft,  was  engaged 
to  proceed  at  once  uptlie  Niger  in  order  to  assist  the  AlhcTl,  if,  as  was 
fjared,  her  officers  and  crew  should  be  disabled  by  fever.  She  mailed  on 
the  Tth,  and  two  days  afterward  the  Wilberforce  left  on  her  sanitary 
cruise.  She  visited  Prince's  Island,  St.  Thomas,  Annobon,  and  Ascen- 
sion ;  the  sick  gradually  recovered,  with  two  or  three  exceptions,  the 
vessel  was  overhauled  and  thoro>ighly  cleansed,  and  Captain  Allen  was 
about  to  sail  for  the  coast  of  Africa  in  the  beginning  of  January,  1842, 
Avhen  the  melancholy  intelligence  reached  Ascension  that  the  Albert 
had  returned  to  Fernando  Po,  with  all  her  crew  dangerously  ill  with 
fever. 

"They  had  been  immediately  landed  at  the  liospital,  where  Com- 
mander Bird  Allen,  with  several  officers  and  men  had  fallen  a  sacrifice 
to  tlieir  zeal  in  braving  to  the  utmost  the  climate  of  the  fatal  river. 
In  fact,  the  vessel  and  her  crew  were  only  saved  from  great  risk  of 
destruction  by  the  timely  meeting  of  Mr,  Becroft,  in  the  Ethiope,  Mho 
brought  them  safely  to  Fernando  Po.  She  had  been  conducted  as  far 
as  the  point  where  her  deliverer  was  met,  by  the  almost  superhuman 
exertions  of  Doctors  Mc William  and  Stanger ;  but  it  was  not  possible 
that  their  unaided  strength  could  have  lasted  much  longer.  Captain 
Trotter  was  reported  to  be  in  such  danger,  that  the  medical  men  had 
thought  it  necessary  he  should  immediately  return  to  England,  as  the 
tnly  means  of  saving  his  life,  and  that  officer  deeming  it  also  of  im- 
portance that  one  of  the  commissioners  should  lay  before  her  majesty's 
government  a  statement  of  the  condition  of  the  vessels  and  survivors  of 
the  expedition,  had  taken  his  passage  in  a  sinall  schooner  which  M-as 
about  to  sail  for  England." 

Dr.  Mc  William's  journal  of  what  occurred  on  board  the  Albert  after 
the  departure  of  the  Wilberforce  and  Soudan  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Chadda,  adds  another  melancholy  chapter  to  the  history  of  Niger  ex- 
ploration. It  will  be  remembered  that  Captain  Trotter  had  determined 
to  ascend  as  far  as  Rabba,  but  the  number  of  the  sick  increased  as  he 
advanced,  and  by  the  time  he  reached  Egga,  on  the  28th  of  September, 
the  engineer  was  unable  to  perform  his  duty.  The  King  of  Egga  re- 
ceived the  officers  in  a  friendly  manner,  but  refused  to  make  a  treaty, 
through  fear  of  the  Felatahs.  On  the  3d  of  October,  Dr.  McWilliam 
writes :  "  This  day  our  hopes  of  penetrating  further  into  the  interior 
received  a  finishing  blow.  Our  arduous,  enterprising,  and  kind  chief,  who 
was  complaining  yesterday,  has  now  unmistakable  symptoms  of  fever. 
Commander  Bird  Allen  lies  in  a  very  critical  state,  and  upward  of 
twenty  others  of  our  companions  are  completely  prostrated.  In  short, 
of  the  whites  at  all  fit  for  drv,  there  remain  only  one  seaman,  the 
sergeant,  and  one  private  of  marines,  John  Huxley,  sick  attendant,  John 
Duncan,  master-at-arms,  Mr.  Willie,  mate,  Dr.  Stanger,  and  myself 
The  time,  therefore,  seems  now  to  have  arrived  when  there  is  no  reason- 


i 
i 


tER. 

th.  A  small  trading 
iecroft,  was  engaged  j 
the  Alf^':Ti,  if,  as  was 
fever.  She  {sailed  on 
left  on  her  sanitary  ] 
Lnnobon,  and  Ascen- 
threc  exceptions,  the 
id  Captain  Allen  was 
ng  of  January,  1 842, 
sion  that  the  Albert 

dangerously  ill  with 

I 

hospital,  Avhere  Corn- 
had  fallen  a  sacrifice    1 
,te  of  the  fatal  river.    | 
1  from  great  risk  of 
,  in  the  Ethiope,  who 
een  conducted  as  far 
B  almost  superhuman 
lut  it  was  not  possible 
inch  longer.    Captain 
the  medical  men  had 
•n  to  England,  as  the 
seming  it  also  of  im- 
r  before  her  majesty's 
jssels  and  surv-ivors  of 
I  schooner  which  was 

board  the  Albert  after 

from  the  mouth  of  the 

e  history  of  Niger  ex- 

'rotter  had  determined 

ie  sick  increased  as  he 

he  28th  of  September, 

The  King  of  Egga  re- 

iised  to  make  a  treaty, 

ctober,  Dr.  McWilliam 

rther  into  the  interior 

ng,  and  kind  chief,  who 

le  symptoms  of  fever, 

state,  and  upward  of 

prostrated.    In  short, 

only  one  seaman,  the 

y,  sick  attendant,  John 

Stanger,  and  myself. 

rhen  thei-e  is  no  reason- 


THE    MODEL    FARM    ABANDONED. 


569 


able  prospect  of  cur  reaching  Kabba  this  season ;  and  no  alternative  left 
us  but  to  return  to  the  sea  with  all  possible  speed  »  .  ^,       „.    ^^ 

On  the  voyage  down  several  deaths  occurred.     Two  of  the  ofl.cers 
lumped  overboard,  whUo  in  the  deUriimx  of  fever  and  one  of  them  was 
109^    The  entire  command  and  management  of  the  vessel  devolved  on 
Doctors  McWilUam  and  Stanger,  the  former  of  whom  tmdertook  the     j 
navigation,  while  the  latter  acted  as  engineer:  and  m  addition  to  these     j 
labofs,  they  took  charge  of  the  sick.     At  the  model  farm  they  found 
that  the  persons  they  had  left  had  cleared  and  planted  twelve  acres  o 
g  oun^Ll  built  several  huts,  but  Mr.  Carr,  the  super  utondont,  with 
fhe  schoolmaster  and  gardener,  wc.e  so  ill,  that  the  P'^vs--  -^^^^^^^^^^ 
brought  on  board,  and  gave  the  farm  mto  the  charge  ot  ^V^^^ 
an  American  negro,  who  had  accompanied  the  expedition  from  L  borM 
On  the  13th,  btlo;  Eboe,  they  fortunately  met  the  ^  .«;,.,  without 
the  assistance  of  which  vessel  they  would  have  been  imable  to  cross  the 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nun,  and  on  the  17th,  reached  Fernando  I  o 

After  the  departure  of  Captain  Trotter  for  England,  the  command  of 
the  expedition  devolved  upon  Captain  Allen.     In  u  ««»;»'tation  with 
Mr.  Cook,  the  remaining  ccmmissioner,  it  was  decided  *<>  P/'^^^^  J 
the  Nicer  a-ain,  to  the  relief  of  the  settlers  of  the  model  1:  an     but 
Capfain  Men  deferred  this  trip  until  June,  when  the  Niger  should  be 
swollen  by  the  tropical  rains.     In  the  mean  time  he  proceeded  to  ca  ry 
out  the  object  of  the  expedition  in  the  Bights  of  Bemn  and  Bia  r. ,  which 
occupied  him  until  the  beginning  of  June,  Avhcn  he  returned  to  Fer- 
nando  Po.     He  was  preparing  to  set  out  for  the  Niger  once  more,  when, 
on  the  24th  of  June,  dispatches  arrived  from  England  to  put  a  stop  to 
the  expedition,  and  forward  the  ofiicers  and  men  composing  it  to  En- 
gland, with  thO  exception  of  the  few  who  would  be  reqmred  to  proceed 
''     to  the  reliefofthc  persons  left  at  the  model  farm. 

;  The  Wilberforce  was  detailed  for  this  service,  under  the  command 

^     of  Lieutenant  Webb,  and  having  been  fitted  out  m  all  haste  entered 
i     the  mouth  of  the  Niger  on  the  2d  of  July.     She  P--«^-«^  J^f '^oJ 
rapidly,  passed  Idda  on  the  10th,  and  had  nearly  reached  t'le  mouth  of 
'     the  ChJda,  when  she  struck  on  a  sunken  rock.     She  was  bin     m  com 
';     partments,  which  alone  prevented  her  from  being  a  total  !«««   ^'^^    he 
j     damage  was  so  serious,  that  on  reaching  the  model  f=^""' ^^-^^  ^^^^ 
wasobli-edtorunher  aground  to  have  the  hull  repaired,     ^l^s^^as 
accomplished  in  a  day  or  two,  and  the  vessel  got  afloat  ^S^j  -;1'  - 
fever  had  already  made  its  appear.ance,  haste  was  made  to  reship  the 
'     goods  and  stores  at  the  model  farm  and  return  down  the  river      It  w£« 
found  that  Moore,  who  had  been  left  in  charge  of  the  undertaking,  had 
not  sufficient  control  over  his  subordinates ;  the  latter  were  idle  and 
vicious;  and  though  the  crops  promised  well  and  the  natives  were 
friendly,  it  was  thought  best  to  abandon  the  place  altogether 

Lieutenant  Webb  returned  to  Fernando  Po  on  the  29th  of  July,  and 
soon  afterward  saUed  in  the  Wilberforce  for  England,  where  he  arrived 


4     - 


560 


BXPLORATIONS   OP   THE    NIGER. 


on  the  17th  of  November.  Captain  Allen  and  the  remainder  of  the  ex- 
pcdition  had  already  arrived  in  September.  Thus  disastrously  tcrmmated 
an  ininosiiig  attempt  to  oiHjn  the  Niger  to  Englbh  commerce-not  from 
any  want  of  energy  or  coinage  on  the  part  of  those  who  engaged  m  it, 
but  from  the  ravages  of  a  climate  into  which  few  Europeans  can  venturo 
and  live.  Of  the  total  of  one  hundred  and  forty-five  Europeans  who  took 
part  in  this  expedition,  forty-four  died,  and  only  fourteen  escaped  with- 
out an  attack  of  fever. 


asR. 

I  remainder  of  the  ex- 
iisastrously  terminated 
I  commerce — not  from 
90  who  engaged  in  it, 
Europeans  can  venturo 
ire  Europeans  who  took 
rourteen  escaped  with- 


